The use of retaining walls in the landscape. What is a retaining wall Wooden retaining wall

Retaining walls perform not only their direct appointment, preventing the destruction of the slope and the washing out of the fertile layer.

Landscape designers use them to highlight various garden areas, create with their help a multi-level relief, use as decorative elements in flower beds.

Today there are many various options retaining walls, which differ in the material used.

The simplest, not requiring special skills and inexpensive option This is a wooden retaining wall.

What places are suitable for retaining walls made of wood?

A wooden retaining wall can be installed anywhere, the main thing is that there is no dampness, because in damp places there is a rapid destruction of wood. For wetlands, it is better to use other materials.

If the slopes are very steep, it is preferable to make a retaining wall not from wood, but, for example, from stone or concrete due to their greater strength.

Pros and cons of wooden retaining walls

The positives include:

low cost;
beautiful appearance;
environmental Safety;
the ability to independently perform all work.

The downside is a relatively short period of use, caused by wood decay in a warm and humid climate.

Material selection for wooden retaining walls

The retaining wall can be made of logs or lumber. The most popular solid walls wooden beam, big choice which each hardware store will provide.

From boards with a thickness of more than 45 mm, decorative walls of small height can be made.

It will help you save the use of old sawn trees and various wood trimmings.

Choice of installation method

There are two types of installation - horizontal and vertical.

The type of laying is determined by the length of the purchased material and the presence of roundings at the future wall.

Long logs allow the use of horizontal laying, which will reduce the construction period and increase the durability of the building.

For walls of a semicircular or zigzag shape, it is best to use a vertical type of laying, which allows the use of trimmings of material of different lengths and thicknesses.

How to extend the life of wood material

Due to decay and harmful insects wooden material may become unusable, which will reduce the time of its use or make it impossible.

Antiseptic treatment of wood, as well as coating it in hot bitumen or used engine oil, will help prevent this.

The use of creosote will save the wood from decay and repel insects. You can impregnate the pillars with various chemicals, for example, iron or copper sulfate.

Rules for self-construction of a retaining wall

When building wooden walls, a foundation is not required.
The first step is to compact the soil and add gravel to eliminate possible soil deformations that may occur in the future.
At each stage, we use the level to check the correct laying of the material.
To fasten the bottom row, we use reinforcing bars to prevent the wall from sliding down the slope.
A T-bar, called an anchor, will prevent the wall from tilting and deflecting under the weight of the soil.
We make a retaining wall with horizontal laying.

To install a retaining wall with horizontal laying, you must:

Carry out site marking;
Dig a trench thirty centimeters deep;
Fill it with 15 cm of gravel or pebbles and tamp;
Lay the lower beam using reinforcement;
Lay the first row;
Continue laying the timber in the second row of the wall;
Use geotextile to make drainage;
Lay the third row;
Install T-shaped anchors;
Following the technology, lay the subsequent rows;
Decorate the wall after shrinkage.

Retaining wall with vertical laying

If you want to make a retaining wall out of vertical bar, then it is necessary:

Prepare the material you will be using. Most often, logs with a diameter of no more than 20 cm are used. For increased strength, they are all buried half the length.

During construction decorative wall of small height, only part of the logs are deeply buried;
Carry out site marking;
Prepare a trench, the depth of which should be 20 cm more than the planned wall height;
Make a bed of gravel with a thickness of about 25 cm and carefully compact it;
Install end bar. He will be the standard;
The subsequent bars are installed, equal to the extreme;
Fasten the wall with horizontal strips, giving strength to the entire structure;
Arrange drainage;
Only in cases of high loads, install T-anchors.

In this article, you got acquainted with the device of wooden retaining walls. We wish you success in applying the information received to create a unique design for your backyard.

Photo of a retaining wall made of wood

Dry masonry walls can be built without mortar, and the seams can be filled with soil with plant seeds. For retaining walls built in the usual way, you can choose a tone solution that matches the stones or a contrasting one, depending on the desired effect. Important: the top of the masonry must be protected from moisture and mechanical damage - for example, with the help of slabs or protruding stones.

Dry masonry requires a gravel base 40 cm deep, and mortar masonry requires a concrete foundation 80 cm deep.

Reddish-brown stones are ideal for a garden in southern style. Next to such a wall, yellow inflorescences stand out especially brightly.

However, keep in mind that certain skills will be required to build such a stone partition.

Close-up: building a wall

Retaining wall combines decorative and practical qualities: it can strengthen a slope, create a spectacular backdrop for plants, or deter growing pets.

A retaining wall combines decorative and practical qualities: it can reinforce a slope, create a spectacular backdrop for plants, or contain overgrown pets.

And most importantly, building it with your own hands is not so difficult!

You will need these tools:

bayonet and shovel,
solution bucket,
construction mixer,
hand rammer,
masonry trowel,
rubber mallet,
gloves,
building level.

materials:

concrete of strength class B 25 for the foundation,
building mixture,
reinforcing mesh,
masonry stones.

1. Mark out a place for the foundation with a lanyard or garden hose.

2. Mark the edges with a bayonet shovel, dig a trench 80 cm deep.

3. Upper layer soil remove with a shovel, but if the soil is clayey, it is better to use a mini excavator.

4. For strengthening concrete insert a steel reinforcement mesh into the ditch and align it so that it runs along the walls of the trench.

5. Concrete class B 25 mix with a construction mixer, pour into the trench, compact in layers with a hand rammer. Level the mass with a shovel so that the surface of the foundation is flush with the ground.

6. Pull the mooring cord at the same height, so that the laying goes clearly along horizontal line. Mix the mortar and spread over the foundation with a shovel, press down with a trowel. Place a sandstone stone on the foundation, checking for straightness with a level.

7. Install the formwork board at the back in the same way, lay further rows of masonry on the mortar. Using a rubber mallet, drive the stones into the mortar.

8. On the finished wall open the seams with mortar and let dry.

When located suburban area on a hill or near a steep bank of a reservoir, the device is a technical necessity.

For its device, different Construction Materials: natural stones, brick, concrete, wood.

When choosing them, it is important to take into account architectural features. country house and general design the surrounding landscape.

AT landscape design These facilities perform the following tasks:

Participate in the zoning of the territory;
Decorative features;
Strengthen the soil;
They create horizontal planes on which planting is possible.

Design features

Retaining walls can be engineering or decorative structures.

In the first, they are arranged to prevent landslides, do not allow the soil mass to collapse or slide from the slope of a hill, ravine or the shore of a reservoir. These are capital structures that require the involvement of specialists.

In the second case, they have only an aesthetic function and are designed to be an adornment of a country exterior.

When choosing a material for a retaining wall, it is important to consider it. strength characteristics, hygroscopicity and the presence of pores. Use is recommended, and natural stone– their surface has low water absorption and is durable in operation. Concrete is also characterized by high strength, but is inferior to the above materials in terms of aesthetics. Although there modern styles where concrete will look appropriate and harmonious.

Regardless of the purpose of the retaining wall in a certain landscape space, its design is the same for all options - this base and visible part.

Outside, the vertical plane of the structure can be flat or sloped, and with back side it is close to the surface of the soil.

Important! Starting to design a retaining wall, it is necessary to consider how the drainage from the structure will be carried out. The accumulation of moisture on the back side is inevitable.

Wooden retaining wall

The use of wood to create a retaining wall in the landscape involves the construction of a temporary structure or decorative, and extremely short-lived.

Important! Choosing logs for the construction of a wooden retaining wall, you can not save. The material must be of high quality, without damage on the surface and signs of disease. Then it will last longer.

At the bottom of the trench, the depth of which is half the height of the wall being erected, sand and stone are laid;
Part of the wood to be immersed in the ground must be treated with bitumen-based mastic;
To protect the outer part of the wood from the appearance of mold and rot, it must be treated with antiseptic compounds;
Logs are immersed in the moat and connected to each other with metal spirals. The rock is laid in the lower part;
Then a cement-sand mortar is poured into the ditch.

Important! The main enemy of wood is excessive moisture and dampness. Therefore, the combined drainage device must be made from the back of the structure.

Manifold wooden materials allows you to vary decorative effect. Of course, the most popular for creating retaining walls are timber and logs. But they can also be presented creatively:

Concrete retaining wall

Foam blocks

Thanks to the voids inside, they are very comfortable material to create green walls.

The retaining wall should harmoniously fit into the landscape design - materials, color and shape of the enclosing structures and the style decision of the house. Just below are four completely different retaining walls:

The wall should not stand out against the general background and be dominant. A height of half a meter is enough for such a structure.

If the massiveness of the retaining wall structure is due to technical necessity, then its perception can be facilitated by the device ladders, niches or built-in benches. Such complexes require careful planning, but they look just magical.

Original retaining wall with built-in bench:

Plants will become a natural and harmonious decoration of a retaining wall made of natural stone. The arrangement of earthen pockets during masonry allows you to subsequently plant flowers in them. climbing plants from below and creepers lowered from above will add to the overall picture.

Handmade jewelry can also look great. For example, a mosaic:

Photo gallery

Here are 25 more retaining wall designs to inspire you, perhaps one of them will serve as a prototype for your own design:

In suburban and urban areas, where a complex terrain with hilly or ravine places creates a lot of problems regarding breaking up a garden and planning a beautiful yard, I want to put things in order. Usually, in this case, it is convenient to divide the territory of the site into terraces, which are located on different levels. The retaining wall plays a key role in such cases.

Terracing a site is the process of artificially forming a fortified horizontal plane - a terrace or ledge.

The retaining wall is built on the boundaries between such planes, which helps prevent the occurrence of collapses and landslides, as well as washing out fertile layers earth.

Unfortunately, it is true that not all owners land plot they can say that they have an even relief. So the conclusion suggests itself that the retaining wall is an indispensable part of the site. It will not only decorate your garden, but this structure will also divide it into special zones.

Making a retaining wall yourself is not at all difficult. During the process itself, a wide variety of plans related to landscape design are implemented. Next, we will consider the main features of the construction of retaining walls with our own hands.

Retaining wall: device and functions

There are different designs of retaining walls. It all depends on the function that this building should perform. The retaining wall can be both decorative and fortifying. For each of the two types, there must be a certain degree of impact. But the "backbone" always consists of the following main components:

Retaining walls have the following features:

What affects the stability of retaining walls

Maximum stability, resistance to high pressure are very important qualities that a well-made retaining wall should have. Otherwise, the structure can easily collapse, and the soil can slide. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account every factor on which the strength of retaining walls depends.

So, we need to figure out what still acts on retaining walls? The influence of the own weight of the building, the forces of adhesion and friction with the ground, the pressure of the soil, the additional weight of the components that may be on it - all this is of tremendous importance.

What can affect the design of the building:

soil swelling in winter;
wind strength (if the retaining wall is higher than 2 m);
vibration level (for example, if there is a railway nearby);
any seismic event (each region has its own characteristics);
washing with rainwater.

An additional factor affecting the level of stability of the building is the thickness of the wall. It is determined by the type of soil and the height of the structure itself. If the ground is soft and the support is high, then it is natural that the width of the protective “shield” should be greater. This is logical.

How to set up a retaining wall. Basic moments

The retaining wall is a rather complex engineering structure, therefore, before constructing it, it is necessary to take into account certain factors that affect the level of strength, reliability and service life of the wall. Of course, when real specialists are involved in this business, everything is done strictly according to the rules. And this is very good. But having certain specific skills and taking into account the circumstances under which you can build a support, you can build such a structure yourself without any problems.

How to make an underground part. Which foundation to choose

Retaining walls with a height of more than 30 cm must necessarily be with a reliable foundation. The main principle that should not be forgotten when laying the foundation is that if the soil is soft and unstable, then the depth of the foundation should be increased.

If you want to level your site and you will learn how to do it.

The depth of the foundation and the height of the support, taking into account the friability of the soil

If the soil is quite dense, then the depth of the foundation and the height of the upper part of the support (above the ground) should be related as 1:4.
In the presence of soil with medium friability, the depth of the foundation should be 1/3 of the height of the support.
If the soil is loose, soft, the depth of the foundation should be 1/2 of its height.
Concrete, crushed stone, gravel, compacted with heavy clay or cement, should form the foundation.

Use of drainage, drainage and waterproofing for the construction of retaining walls

For the equipment of the support, it is necessary not only to lay a high-quality foundation and build a supporting wall on it. The design needs to be protected on the other hand from moisture, which adversely affects it.

The organization of drainage, drainage and, if necessary, waterproofing the inside of the wall are all necessary measures, regardless of what material is used, and what size and shape the retaining wall has. The most important thing is that this prevents the accumulation of moisture and water, which, for obvious reasons, act destructively on the structure.

The drainage of retaining walls can be transverse, longitudinal, and also combined.

With a transverse organization of drainage, special holes are installed in every second or third rows of masonry (their diameter should not exceed 10 cm) or tubes at an angle. Then the water will immediately leave the territory of the site, which is what we wanted.

For longitudinal (underground) drainage along the retaining walls (underground at the level of the foundation), corrugated, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes (their diameter is about 10-15 cm) are laid, wrapped in geotextile materials that absorb water, since it enters the pipe through small holes and assigned to the site.

Special visors or cornice blocks with a slope are also made so that atmospheric water does not enter the masonry, because when low temperatures this will lead to the destruction of the retaining walls. And this cannot be allowed.

Drainage layers between wall and ground

When the wall is assembled and has stood for a couple of days, the space between it and the slope must be filled. Coarse-grained soil (for example, with gravel, coarse sand and pebbles) is suitable for this task. We'll have to stock up on small pieces of brick and other waste material. Regardless of the fact that the gravel presses on the support, this is an additional drainage layer.

Each layer of drainage mixtures and soil is poured separately in order to compact these layers. Here it is preferable to deal with coarse soil and sandy loamy sands.

The use of vegetable soil is necessary for the upper ball of laying materials. When the tamping of the last layer of the retaining wall is finished, the wall is left in this state for a couple of weeks without additional load. Such a measure will lead to the fact that reinforcing materials will acquire all the necessary properties. It is also necessary to remove a layer of soil in advance with a sufficient amount of humus and put it on top. Having done all these manipulations, you can move on to the equipment of the site with peace of mind.

Use of waterproofing

To increase the service life of a retaining brick, wooden, metal or concrete wall, it is necessary to waterproof it from the ground. For this important event use roofing material or roofing felt applied in two layers. If the soil is dry, you can use bitumen or mastic to apply to the inner surface.

What material are retaining walls made of?

First you need to decide on the purpose of the retaining wall, and then select the material for it. It has already been said before that retaining walls can be fortifying and decorative.

To build a reinforcing element of steep slopes, natural stone or concrete should be used. There are areas near railway which are regularly subjected to ground vibration. And because of such a constant powerful pressure, a more fragile material will soon lose its properties, which will negatively affect the level of reliability of the wall.

If you plan to build a retaining wall as a decorative element, then the use of wood, brick or gabion is already acceptable.

Retaining wall made of wood

The installation of this type of retaining wall is considered cheap, but the construction process itself will not be as easy and fast as it might seem at first. Creating and installing a wall will immediately require smooth, high-quality wood. A more simplified construction method is to place the logs vertically, fitting them tightly together. Logs with a diameter of 12-18 cm are considered the most suitable for building a retaining wall. The height of the logs must be calculated depending on what height of the supporting wall we are planning. Calculating each step in advance, do not forget that when installing the wall, somewhere around 50-60 cm of the structure will be buried in the ground. And this is at least.

Each log is placed vertically and close to other logs. At the top, they are tightly wrapped with wire. And to prevent displacement, the logs are connected with nails. For maximum stability, after the logs have been fixed, the trench must be completely filled with concrete.

To avoid rotting wood, which is partially underground, it is lubricated with machine oil. This is very effective remedy for this situation.

Would you like to use the next method called "fence"? This will be more difficult when building, since here each vertical log must be established at a certain interval. It is necessary to make a special hole in which a log of a smaller diameter will be installed quite tightly.

Here you can’t do without high-quality and even logs, because because of rotten wood, everything can completely deteriorate. And we certainly don’t need this, otherwise it will turn out that all efforts and labors will go down the drain. This method is often used: logs are taken, arranged strictly vertically, tightly docking with each other. The diameter is taken here, as in the previous method. But the parts that remain underground are about 40-50 cm. This length will be quite sufficient for the structure to stand straight in the spring and not move when the soil begins to absorb moisture many times more. The reliability of the design must be ensured in the first place.

Retaining wall made of concrete

This is the most durable and solid construction. Its construction begins like this: a trench breaks out, which will have exactly the same perimeter as the wall itself. It is worth considering the fact that the height of the wall affects the depth of the trench.

At the bottom of the trench, a mixture with gravel and crushed stone is laid, after which reinforcement is laid, which is fixed with a bonded wire. Only after that the formwork is removed. The formwork is made of boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm and not more than 45 mm. Nails or ties give the structure a fortress. In the future, it will not crumble, deform concrete. Due to the pressure of the mixture, the side walls of the formwork may begin to buckle. To prevent possible further destruction, it is necessary to score metal rods at intervals of 1.5 meters.

At the end of the preparatory work to strengthen the retaining wall, concrete is evenly poured. You have to wait a couple of days for the wall to form. Then the formwork is removed. And if there are any irregularities, they are leveled with plaster.

Then you can proceed to facing work, in the implementation of which each owner can choose necessary materials at your own discretion. Here you can already give preference to whatever your heart desires.

Construction of a brick pillar

The brick wall is laid in exactly the same way as during conventional construction. The only thing that needs to be emphasized is that here the thickness should be made smaller. If the wall less than a meter in height, it must be laid out with a half brick. If the wall is higher, then a whole brick is used. Facing materials for a brick structure are the same as for concrete.

For this structure, a foundation of that depth is needed, which will be affected by the final height of the wall, the composition of the soil and the degree of its freezing. If we talk about the width, then it is often 20-30 cm larger than the retaining wall itself.
During the construction of the wall, the main thing is not to forget to follow the ratio of length and thickness of 1: 3. The special design of the retaining brick wall has always distinguished it from similar structures made of other materials. The installation of such a wall is not considered too simple, but at the same time it is not very difficult. The main thing is to carefully follow each paragraph of the instructions.

Retaining walls made of natural stone

The construction of stone walls is more significant material and physical costs. But the game is worth the candle, because the beauty and aesthetics of such a support cannot be compared with anything. Indeed, if you look closely at such a structure, you cannot fail to note this special style and appearance that natural stone gives to the entire building.

A stone retaining wall has a considerable advantage: plants are planted in pre-formed earthen pockets. Natural stone is the most attractive material from which a retaining wall is manually created. Often, granite, basalt and syenite are used in construction. These are the most common natural stones. Sandstone or lime will help give the retaining wall an antique look. They can quickly absorb moisture, moss appears on the treated areas. Because of this, the design has a touch of an old building. And this decision looks very romantic. The foundation is laid in such a way that its width is more than 30 cm. Without following these rules, you can end up with an unstable wall, which may soon collapse.

Retaining stone wall, the height of which is 1 meter, with a longitudinal drainage system.

1) You need to mark the site.

pre-selected appropriate place for support (with a slope at the terrace, which is located higher than ground level). Stakes are driven in along the edges of the selected area and a cord is pulled.

2) Prepare the trench.

With the help of a garden knife, the soil is cut along the markings. And with the help of a shovel it is removed thin layer earth. This will be followed by digging the trench itself, the depth of which will be 40 cm.

3) Laying the foundation.

The bottom of the trench is well leveled and compacted. Then a layer of concrete is poured with a depth of at least 30 cm. The concrete mixture for the foundation consists of one part of concrete, 6 parts of sand and gravel. That should be the proportion.

If the soil is loose, then before pouring the concrete mixture, a wooden fence should be made. Let the concrete pad dry completely, which will take about three days.

4) Creation of a lime layer.

When the foundation is completely dry, before laying the stone, it is necessary to smear it with a lime mixture in layers of 2-3 cm. The composition of the mixture includes sand, water, cement and lime. For one part of quicklime, 3-4 parts of sand are needed. For each kilogram of such a mixture, 300 ml of water is required. To avoid lumps, water is added gradually. Then you can add cement. We get the ratio: 1 part of cement to 7 parts of the mixture.

5) We lay the stone.

The stones are carefully cleaned of dirt and wetted with water. You can not put a stone one on top of the other. Otherwise, the building will fall apart due to the slightest external influence. The junction of two stones is located in the center of the stone located in the previous row. A larger stone with regular shapes is always placed along the edge. For the middle, a smaller stone is suitable. We must try to find stable positions for all stones.

For the next row of the wall, the same principle is used, applying lime mortar. The mixture should be with a minimum thickness of 1-1.5 cm, otherwise too large seams will be quickly destroyed. For the stability and strength of the structure, the side that is behind is made with a certain slope towards the retained soil (approximately 5-10 degrees).

A broken curvilinear retaining wall configuration is stronger and more reliable, since such wall lines are characterized by a reduced span length. There is no huge load on them, and thanks to the rough surface of the back wall, there is a closer contact with the soil.

6) Use of drainage and drainage.

Each installed row of support between the soil and the wall requires falling asleep a layer of crushed stone with gravel or small pebbles with gravel. After that, everything is neatly rammed. When laying the second row of support, you will need a drainage pipe.

When the retaining wall is in place, traces of lime mortar are removed with water, a sponge and a brush.

Retaining wall in landscape design

Immediately it should be said that each site has its own individual shape, size, relief features. Therefore, in the process of building retaining walls, their own special approaches are used, taking into account the personal preferences of the owner, his tastes, the style of the house itself, the territory of the garden and everything related to it. For example, if this landscape has a pronounced relief, then it is worth using a vertical layout. This move would be really appropriate. To do this, the site is divided into horizontal levels, which are fixed with supports.

For a small land area, the height of the wall being erected reaches 60 cm. Bushes grow well along such structures. While too high a wall creates an unpleasant impression of heaviness. If, however, such buildings are planned in advance on the site, then they are “diluted” with the help of various interesting architectural elements (for example, a bench, niches, steps, and the like).

The chosen material for the construction of retaining walls should be explained by specific design decisions. It would be logical. After all, relief, textured material is used to “elevate” the monumentality of the support. Also in this case, the installation of large granite stones, laid with a large seam, is welcome. And here it is appropriate to use a powerful log. To create a more refined, somewhat inconspicuous, but on the other hand elegant relief, wall cladding is done using small stones and plaster.

Today, any project can be realized. It is important not to violate the construction technology.

Video How to make a retaining wall

Not every owner can boast of a perfectly even terrain, hence the conclusion - retaining walls on the site are an absolutely indispensable element that can become not only good decoration your garden, but also a structure that divides it into zones.

The process of erecting a retaining wall with your own hands is not complicated; during it, you can realize a variety of landscape design fantasies. In this article, we will cover all important nuances when building a retaining wall with your own hands.

The device and functions of retaining walls

The designs of retaining walls may differ from each other, since each performs its own function - fortifying or decorative, and each is designed for a certain degree of impact, however, the “backbone” of the wall is the same, it consists of the following main elements:

Foundation - underground part

It is he who can withstand the brunt of the pressure of the soil.

Body - ground part

The inner side of the wall "contacts" with the ground, circling a hill on the site. Outer side(facial) is open, can be flat or oblique.

Drainage and drainage - protective communications

During the design of the structure, it is imperative to provide for ways to remove excess water and moisture, which will accumulate behind its inner surface all the time.

Retaining walls simultaneously combine several functions:

perfectly produce zoning of the site;
perfectly transform and become a decorative and artistic element of the landscape;
perform an unsurpassed strengthening and protective function;
solve the problem of unevenness of the site.

Parameters on which the stability of a retaining wall depends

The retaining wall should be as stable as possible, able to withstand high pressure, otherwise there is a huge probability of destruction of the structure and slipping of the soil. Therefore, all factors affecting its strength should be calculated.

The following physical forces act on the wall:

erection own weight;
soil pressure held by the wall;
forces of friction and adhesion to the soil;
additional weight of elements that may be on it.

Phenomena affecting the design:

soil swelling in winter;
wind (if the wall height is more than 2 m);
vibrations (if, for example, a railway is laid nearby);
seismic phenomena (depending on the characteristics of the region)
washing with rain water.

Another factor affecting the stability of a structure is the wall thickness. It depends on the type of soil and the height of the structure - the softer the soil and the greater the height of the support, the wider the protective “shield” should be.

Key aspects when organizing a retaining wall

Retaining walls are a complex engineering structure, therefore, when arranging it, a number of factors should be taken into account, on which their strength, reliability and durability depend. Of course, it is better to entrust this matter to specialists, however, having certain specific skills and knowing all the conditions under which it is possible to build a support, you can independently build a structure.

The construction of retaining walls is possible only on stable soils - crushed stone, clay, gravel, sandy loam, etc.
For successful arrangement, it is important that the level of soil freezing becomes no more than 1.5 m from the surface of the earth.
Groundwater should pass below 1 m, and preferably 1.5 m from the surface of the earth.
With self-arrangement, it must be remembered that the ground part of the retaining wall should not exceed 1.4 m. For the construction of a higher supporting structure, it is better to turn to professionals, since this requires special calculations that take into account soil pressure and its mobility.

Underground part - types and arrangement of the foundation

A retaining wall, in which the height becomes more than 30 cm, must necessarily have a reliable foundation.
The general rule when organizing the foundation: the softer and more unstable the soil, the deeper the foundation should be.

The desired proportions of the depth of the foundation and the height of the support, depending on the friability of the soil:

If the soil is sufficiently dense, then the ratio of the depth of the foundation and the height of the aboveground part should be 1:4, respectively.
If the earth is of medium looseness, then the depth of the foundation becomes 1/3 of the height of the support.
If the soil is loose, soft, then the depth of the foundation of the wall should be ½ of its height.

The foundation may consist of gravel, crushed stone, concrete, compacted with cement or heavy clay.

Drainage, drainage and waterproofing - the guarantor of the reliability and durability of the retaining wall

When equipping a support, it is not enough to provide a high-quality foundation and securely install a retaining wall on it, it is very important to protect the structure from the back from excess moisture that has a devastating effect on it.

Regardless of the material, size and shape of the retaining wall, in order to prevent the accumulation of water and moisture, which have a devastating effect on the structure, it is imperative to organize drainage and drainage, as well as, if necessary, waterproofing the inside of the support.

Drainage organization

The drainage of the retaining wall is divided into transverse, longitudinal and combined.

The transverse organization of drainage means the installation of holes in each 2nd or third row of masonry with a diameter of not more than 10 cm or pipes at an angle so that the water immediately leaves the site.

With a longitudinal drainage system, as it is often called underground, a corrugated, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm is laid along the retaining wall under the soil at the foundation level, wrapped in geotextile material that absorbs water, which subsequently enters through small holes into the pipe and drained outside the terrace.

To prevent atmospheric water from entering the masonry structure, which, when sub-zero temperature will lead to the destruction of the retaining wall, it is necessary to provide a canopy or cornice block with a certain slope.

Drainage layer between soil and wall

After assembling the wall and several days of its downtime, it is necessary to proceed to filling the space between the slope and the wall itself. Coarse-clastic soils, for example, gravel, pebbles, coarse sand, are best suited for this. Also, small pieces of brick and other waste materials are often used for this. Not taking into account the fact that gravel exerts considerable pressure on the support, it serves as an additional drainage layer.

Drainage mixtures and soil are filled in layers, where each individual layer is rammed. Coarse-clastic soils and sandy loamy sands are considered more preferable.

On top of the laying material is best used vegetable soil. After the last layer of the retaining wall has been compacted, it must be left in this state for several weeks without giving it loads. Thanks to this, the reinforcing material will gain all its properties. It is very important to lay on top the previously removed soil layer, in which there is enough humus. Having done all the above work, you can safely proceed to the arrangement of the terrace.

Waterproofing - additional reliability and durability of the structure

To increase the service life of retaining wooden, brick, metal, concrete walls, their waterproofing from the soil is necessary. To do this, you can use the following materials: roofing felt or roofing felt, applied in two layers. It is also possible with dry soils to coat the inner surface with bitumen or mastic.

Do-it-yourself materials for making retaining walls

First of all, before choosing a material for a retaining wall, you should clearly understand its purpose. In the description above, it was already said that the retaining wall can be a fortifying structure, as well as a decorative component of a garden plot.

If the retaining wall is to serve as a reinforcing element of a steep incline or terrain, it is best to use natural stone or concrete for its construction. For example, the area, which is located next to the railway, is constantly subject to ground vibrations, and under such pressure, more fragile materials will very quickly lose their properties, which will ultimately greatly affect the reliability of the wall.

That's when a retaining wall is installed for the purpose of adding decorative element and is not subject to physical activity, then gabions, wood or brick can be used as a material.

Wooden retaining walls

This type of retaining wall is considered cheap to install, but the installation process itself is not that easy and takes the most time. To create and install it, you will initially need smooth, high-quality wood. A more simplified method of erection is the vertical arrangement of logs, tightly fitted to each other. A log in diameter from 12 to 18 cm in diameter is considered the most optimal for wooden supporting walls. The height of the log depends on how high the supporting wall you are going to build. When deciding on your height, do not forget to take into account the fact that at least 50-60 cm will have to be spent as a retaining wall, burying this part in the ground.

The logs are arranged strictly vertically and right up to each other. From above, they must be tightly wrapped with wire, and to prevent displacement, you can also connect them with nails. To ensure maximum stability after fixing the logs, the trench is completely filled with concrete.

To prevent the wood from rotting, part of which will be permanently in the ground, it is best to lubricate it with engine oil.

The next method - the "fence" is more difficult to erect, since it vertical logs established at fixed intervals. Special holes are created in which, tightly to each other, logs with a smaller diameter are installed.

To create it, you need high-quality and even logs, as rotten wood will very quickly turn your efforts and time into a complete disappointment. Most often, the simplest option is used - vertically arranged logs that are tightly joined to each other. The recommended trunk diameter is the same as in the method described above, but the part that goes into the ground is slightly smaller and is 40-50 cm. This is long enough to spring time they stood firm and did not move when the earth usually absorbs several times more moisture.

concrete retaining wall

This design is considered the most durable and solid. The process of its construction begins with the fact that you need to dig a trench, which along the perimeter will be an exact reflection of the wall. The depth of the trench depends on the height of your wall.

We lay a mixture of gravel and crushed stone at the bottom of the trench, then the reinforcement, which we fix with a connected wire, and only then we remove the formwork. We make formwork from boards, the thickness of which is not less than 25 mm and not more than 45 mm. With the help of screeds or nails, we give the structure a fortress, so that in the future it does not crumble, deforming the concrete. Under the pressure of the mixture, the side walls of the formwork can bend, and in order to prevent them, we hammer metal rods with an interval of up to 1.5 meters.

After all preparatory work along the reinforcing part of the retaining wall, pour concrete evenly. A few days later, when the wall is formed, the formwork can be removed and, if there are irregularities, trim them with plaster.

The transition to the next level is facing works, in which everyone chooses the material to their taste.

Brick support

The technology of laying a brick wall is the same as in conventional construction. The only difference between them is the reduced thickness of the structure. A wall not exceeding a meter in height is laid out with a half brick, if higher, then with a whole one. Facing material for a brick wall, the same is used as for a concrete one.

A foundation is needed for this structure, and the depth of its foundation will depend entirely on the final height of the wall, the composition of the soil and the degree of its freezing. As for the width, as a rule, it is 20-30 cm more from the retaining wall itself.

In the process of building a wall, it is very important to observe the ratio of length to thickness (1:3). Retaining Brick wall always distinguished by the peculiarity of its design. Its installation cannot be considered one of the simplest, but it also does not apply to complex ones.

Retaining wall made of natural stone

Installing a stone wall requires relatively more material and physical costs, but it's worth it, since such a support looks very beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.

A big plus of a retaining wall made of stone is that previously formed earthen pockets allow plants to be planted there. Natural stone is considered the most attractive material from which you can create a retaining wall with your own hands. Basalt, granite, and syenite are considered the most common types. natural stone. To give a more ancient look to the retaining wall, you can use lime or sandstone. Quickly absorbing moisture, they are overgrown with moss, thereby creating the effect of antiquity. The width of the foundation is always more than 30 cm. Not adhering to this norm, the wall in most cases turned out to be unstable.

How to make a retaining wall on the site with your own hands - a master class

We make a retaining wall of natural stone 1 meter high with a longitudinal drainage system.

Step 1. Plot marking

Initially, we choose a place for our support - a slope near the terrace, located above ground level. Then drive in pegs at the corners of the proposed support area and pull the cord.

Step 2. trench preparation

Cut the soil along the marking contour with a garden knife and remove a small layer of earth with a shovel. Then you should immediately proceed to digging a trench 40 cm deep.

Step 3. Foundation

Carefully level and tamp the bottom of the trench. After that, a layer of concrete should be poured, the depth of which should be at least 30 cm. The proportions of the components concrete mix for the foundation: 1 part concrete, 6 parts gravel and sand.

If the soil is loose, then before pouring the concrete mixture, it is necessary to build a wooden fence. The concrete pad must dry completely, this will take approximately 3 days.

Step 4. lime layer

After the foundation has completely dried, before laying the stone, a lime mixture should be applied to it with a layer of 2-3 cm. It consists of lime, sand, water and cement. For 1 part of quicklime, 3-4 parts of sand are required, and for each kilogram of this composition, 300 ml of water is needed. In order to avoid lumps, water must be added little by little. After that, cement is added in the ratio: 1 part of cement to 7 parts of the mixture.

Step 5. stone laying

Thoroughly clean the stones from dirt and moisten with water. Stones should not be laid one on one, since in this case the structure may collapse at the slightest external impact. The joint of one pair should be located in the middle of the stone of the previous row. Along the edges should be laid larger and correct form stones, smaller stones will fit in the middle, while trying to find their own stable position for each.

The next row of walls is installed according to the same principle, using lime mortar. It is important that the mixture be of a minimum thickness (1-1.5 cm), otherwise too thick seams will collapse faster. In order for the structure to be more stable and durable, it is desirable that its back face be made with a slight slope towards the retained soil, about 5-10 degrees.

It is worth remembering that broken curvilinear configurations of retaining walls are more durable and reliable, since such a wall line has a reduced span and, accordingly, is subjected to less loads, and a rough surface rear wall provides better ground grip

Step 6. Drainage and drainage

After each established number the supports between the wall and the ground should be covered with a layer of gravel with crushed stone or small pebbles, after which it is carefully rammed. After laying the second row of supports, you need to take care of the drainage pipe.

Once the retaining wall is installed, remove excess lime mortar with water, a sponge and a brush.

Retaining walls in landscape design

Initially, it should be noted that each site has its own individual shapes, sizes and topography, therefore, when arranging a retaining wall, there should be a special approach, taking into account personal preferences, taste, style of the house, garden and garden paths. For example, if the landscape has a pronounced relief, then it will look great vertical layout, which consists in dividing the site into several horizontal levels, fixed by supports. If a

the land area is small, it is better to build walls up to 60 cm high, and the bushes along them will grow better. Too much larger wall will create a feeling of heaviness, but if the site involves such buildings, then they should be “diluted” with various architectural elements, for example, benches, steps, niches, etc.

The choice of retaining wall material also directly depends on the specific design solutions. If you want to "elevate" the monumentality of the support, then use embossed, texture materials, install large granite stones laid with a considerable seam, or powerful logs. If, on the contrary, you want to make your relief more refined, inconspicuous and elegant, then clad the wall small stones, plaster.

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