How to paste over walls with decorative stone: laying order, features of creating seams. Laying decorative stone - creating a stylish interior

People who are new to the rules for installing decorative stone are faced with the fact that finishing material, having held out on the wall for some time, gradually begins to crumble. Usually blame is placed on the glue Bad quality, although most often it is an improperly prepared work surface that causes the collapse of the cladding.

Ways to install a finishing stone - 2 options

Laying of decorative stone is carried out using auxiliary materials, which are selected taking into account the planned installation method. The tile can be fixed to the wall using the jointing technique or the seamless method:

If the material is mounted with jointing, then simultaneously with the tile, a solution intended for its execution and a special dye are purchased. The latter usually has a contrasting tone or color that matches the shade of the tile.
If it is decided to lay the stone without using the jointing technique, then in the store, in addition to finishing, you need to buy only the adhesive recommended by the manufacturer and, if necessary, hydrophobic composition.

put decorative rock in a seamless way is easier and faster than with stitching. Finishing material should be laid tightly, which will allow you to get almost monolithic surface. The main thing in the installation process is to remove excess adhesive in time, which protrude during the sealing of the finish, otherwise you will have to suffer later. withered tile adhesive With decorative finishes help to remove special acid-containing compounds. Greater effect can be achieved if the cleanser was produced by the same manufacturer as the adhesive.

Despite the complexity of laying decorative stone with jointing, this method used quite often - it looks more impressive.

Fix a decorative stone on the wall at a certain distance from each other. An ideal seam can be achieved by laying identical pieces of drywall or chipboard between the rows of stones. Upon completion of the installation of all the finishing material, we wait for the glue to dry, then we perform the jointing. Too wide a seam can spoil the overall impression of the decor, which is especially noticeable if the tile is used to create a composition with the same pattern in the apartment.

Types of decorative material - sandstone, marble, limestone

For interior decoration walls of residential premises are used stones made either on cement mortar or on gypsum. The former are chosen for facing surfaces in rooms with high level humidity, for example, in the kitchen and in the bathroom. The second type of products is afraid of water, so they are used to decorate walls in the living room, bedrooms and other rooms of the house / apartment. Finished goods most often outwardly imitate brick and slate.

And if the brick looks perfect in the interior of corridors, bedrooms and balconies, then due to the variety of slate textures, it is possible to create bright and original compositions on the walls of living rooms and hallways. As for natural materials, then, due to the high cost, finishing with their use is rare. Meanwhile, the following types of decorative stone have become widespread:

sandstone - has three shades, has a granular structure;
marble - has a wide color palette and different textures;
limestone - differs in structure, size and color shades.

The laying of natural decorative stone on the walls has its own characteristics, but it is not much different from the installation of artificial products. The main thing in both cases is to properly prepare the surface.

How to process walls before finishing - different surfaces

Before you start laying decorative stone on the walls, we recommend that they be thoroughly processed. The surface to be trimmed can have a different coating, and therefore it is prepared in different ways:

If you need to lay tiles on plastered walls, then we re-plaster places with obvious defects. Having thus got rid of bulges and voids, we process the wall with a dry brush, moisten with water and dry. Using this method, we prepare very rough surfaces. We complete the process with priming. A liquid adhesive mixture can be used as a primer. After that, after 2-3 hours, we begin to lay the tiles.
We pre-isolate the wooden work surface using glassine sheets, the laying of which we start from the bottom up (with an overlap horizontally - 15 cm, vertically - 5 cm). On top of the vapor barrier we equip the wire mesh. We apply a layer of cement mortar on it, along which, even before the surface dries, we brush it with a dry stiff brush, which improves the adhesive properties of both materials.
The preparation of a metal wall for decorative tiles follows the same principle as for wooden surface. The difference lies in the fact that in the first case, the mesh is fixed with nails with small caps or with a stapler, while self-tapping screws are more appropriate here.
Defects on stone, concrete and brick walls remove with spatula. If the surface has greasy spots, then we remove them with special degreasers. For preventive purposes, we reinforce the wall, apply on top cement mortar. If the stone surface has been painted, then before laying the tiles we process it with sandblasting grinder. After we mount the plaster mesh and apply a cement layer.
If it is planned to lay a decorative stone on drywall, then we first apply a waterproofing compound. Installation is carried out using a special adhesive, as a finishing material we recommend choosing light and thin types of products (heavy stone should be laid on a double layer of drywall).

Laying stone tiles on foam plastic and other insulation materials is allowed after covering the insulating surface with reinforcing mesh using anchor nails and applying a cement layer.

Instructions for laying stone cladding - a simple algorithm

At the first stage, taking into account the length of the stone, we recommend making a horizontal marking of the wall. For this purpose, we use a tape measure and building level. Marking will allow you to clarify the places of sawing and fitting of facing products. As mentioned above, stone laying can be done with a seamless method and with jointing. If the second method was chosen, then during installation it is necessary to observe the thickness of the seam, which must be within 10 mm.

If there are corner trim elements, installation begins with them. Elements can be stacked both from top to bottom and in reverse order. If the tile is mounted from the bottom to the top, it will be possible to eliminate the displacement of the cladding. The reverse procedure will avoid contamination of the lower row of products with tile adhesive. It is these two factors that should be taken into account when choosing the technique of wall cladding with stone.

Cooking according to the instructions, the composition should acquire the density of toothpaste. It is necessary that the amount of adhesive is enough for 20 minutes of work, after the specified time the composition will become unusable . Glue must be applied so much that it is not too much or too little, in both cases the tile will slide (no more than 4-6 mm, best option- 2-3 mm).

1. Using a spatula, apply the adhesive, rubbing it onto the work surface, then spread the composition evenly on the back of the stone. It is better to use a notched trowel, hold the tool at an angle of 60 0.
2. We press the tile to the base, moving in both directions, making sure that the glue does not come out on the outside of the finish. For the purpose of compaction, you can use a mallet.
3. To trim a decorative stone, use a grinder with diamond disc. If the stone is made of gypsum, then it is best to adjust it with a hacksaw with fine teeth designed for processing wood products. If necessary, artificial stone can be shaped with sandpaper or pliers.

As a rule, the installation of stone tiles using seamless technology is faster, the main stone laying should be done as tightly as possible. Wall cladding with seams is more complicated, but the result is more interesting. To fill the seams use a special syringe or a tight bag with a hole. As soon as the putty begins to harden, we tamp it down and level the seam accordingly with a rubber spatula, we clean it with a stiff brush. We complete the work by painting the seams with the paint that comes with the tile.

Decorative stone is good in every way, but this factor is not a reason to use it in every room. Violation of the design rules will lead to the fact that the living space will begin to look like a stone cave. Although, perhaps, such an association will just appeal to extreme owners.

Hello, I will conduct this interview on my own behalf, since I have been laying gypsum decorative stone for 2 years already, I work conscientiously, and it is unlikely that someone better than me will be able to tell you about all the intricacies of laying. I will put everything on the shelves so that you can put it with your own hands with high quality. As they say, we try once, and we will admire for many years.

Straight to the point:

Buy decorative gypsum stone in Minsk You can follow the link decorative stone "Stone Line". I have been working with this stone for more than a year, I consider it the best in Belarus, and therefore I advise you so that there are no problems in the future!

Let's start with the necessary tools for laying:

1. Ordinary wood saw

The gypsum polymer stone is easily cut with a regular hacksaw, so there is no need for a grinder and excess dust.

2. Miter box with high sides

It is used for sawing decorative plaster stone at 90 and 45 degrees.

3. Spatulas

Spatulas are used to apply glue. I use three spatulas, small (7-9 cm), medium (15-17 cm) and medium notched (15-17 cm)

It is used after laying decorative gypsum stone for filling joints between joints and at corners.

5. Paints from the manufacturer of gypsum stone in the required colors

Manufacturers should give out paint bottles with the stone in all the colors that your gypsum stones are painted with. It is used for painting over white seams after puttying and accidental chips.

6. Varnish on water based

After the paint has dried, all places on the decorative gypsum stone, where the seams were sealed and there were chips, must be varnished.

7. Kitchen sponges

It is very convenient to use when puttying seams with putty.

8. Two brushes of small diameter

The first brush is for applying paint on a decorative stone made of gypsum, the second is for water-based varnish.

9. Milk bag

This, such an ordinary thing, will help you greatly facilitate the work of sealing joints and corners with putty. Cut the milk bag from the side where you already had a hole, from edge to edge. On the opposite side, we make a new small hole in the corner with a diameter of no more than 4-5 mm. We put putties inside the bag and now, through a small hole, gently squeeze it right into the joints of decorative stones.

10. File, sandpaper, chisel

It is far from always that a decorative gypsum stone is poured in perfectly even forms, this makes laying difficult. These tools will help you quickly fit stones one to one. It is most convenient for me to use a chisel, it can quickly and accurately remove both a large layer and a small one, and then clean it with sandpaper.

11. Tile adhesive (bag of 3-7 meters, see consumption on the package),
maybe liquid nails

Gypsum decorative stone has a small mass, any glue will hold it without any problems and you should not buy super-duper strong glue for the same price. I usually use luxury tile adhesive in my work, or the one that customers buy. I rarely lay on liquid nails, but I can tell you with confidence that they will hold the stone without any problems. There was a case, they tried to lay it on silicone, it still holds.
! It is very convenient to lay decorative bricks on liquid nails. It dries quickly and does not stain the edges. Once I was asked to put White stone textures "Old brick" on a white already painted wall. We didn’t want to remove the paint, the repair in the apartment had already been completed, everything was clean. We decided to lay on liquid nails directly on the paint + we did an imitation of jointing, retreating from each brick by 1 cm. It turned out very beautiful: on a white wall, white brick and most importantly, be very careful. It seems to be a gamble, but it turned out quite reliably.

12. Level

Always make sure that your masonry does not move relative to the level.

13. Simple pencil

Mark cut lines.

14. Construction mixer or drill with a nozzle

For mixing glue and putty.

Gypsum decorative stone

See if the color depends on the viewing side

Let's start laying decorative stone with our own hands. I have already revealed many secrets, describing the necessary tools. So now let's talk about the laying process itself. To begin with, we consider the facing gypsum stone, it often happens that the color of the stone depends on the viewing side. It is important! Initially, ask the manufacturer which side to lay, otherwise it may turn out to be porridge. If the color of the stone does not depend on the viewing side, we begin laying.

We lay on the level, make sure that the joints do not match.

Dilute the glue with water, beat with a mixer, make the consistency of a thick paste. Next, we check the level of the floor, the first tiles must be laid according to the level. decorative tiles often have various sizes(length) try not to repeat. For example: large, medium, small, medium ... and so on. When laying the second row, and all subsequent ones, make sure that the new joint does not coincide with the previous one, if it matches or is close to it, replace the tile with a different size.

Complex elements we do it with the help of a chisel or other improvised tools.

If you need to beautifully bypass the switch, you have reached the arch or, pick up a pencil, saw, chisel and carefully cut off the excess, after which the edges must be smoothed with sandpaper.

Cutting corners with a miter box

To ensure that the corners fit well together, cut them with a miter box, when laying two cut tiles, try to keep them snug against each other. Use a miter box for cutting right angles. If there is no miter box, use a corner or object with a perfect right angle.

Carry out curly cutting of edges along the contour of the texture

The texture of the decorative stone itself suggests how beautifully the stone can be cut. Saw with a hacksaw along the texture line, firstly, it is thinner there (easier to cut), and secondly, it turns out more beautiful and natural. Do not forget to sand with sandpaper after sawing.

We close up the joints, corners and places of figured cutting with putty.

We fill the milk bag with putty and gently squeeze it through a small hole exactly into the seam, corner, cut edges or around the switch. After that, we take an ordinary sponge for dishes and remove the excess, do not forget to periodically wash the sponge. Wipe the stone thoroughly so that no putty remains on it.

We paint over the places of putty and cuts with paint from the manufacturer.

Only after the putty has dried do we start painting all the white places: corner joints, cut edges of the stone, switches, etc. If the stone has several colors, be careful to match the color.

Go through water-based varnish

Go over all stained areas with water-based varnish, this protective layer so that in the future the stone was resistant to wet cleaning.

Everything! It remains only to admire the work done with your own hands. I wish you good luck in your endeavors. Once you start, the rest is not so difficult.

PS: If you have any questions or just want to thank for a useful article, write in the comments below.

Elena says: 07/01/2015 at 13:08

Good afternoon. I want to put a decorative gypsum stone (or is it better concrete?) in fragments in the hallway on the wall painted with washing paint. If you prime the stone itself and put it on liquid air, will it pass? Thank you!

Ranil says: 07/12/2015 at 21:30

Hello. We wanted to decorate the wall in the kitchen with stone in places. The wall is painted with water-based emulsion. Which stone is better to take (in the sense that it was easier)? Is it possible to glue a stone on a painted wall after pre-priming it? If so, what kind of primer? Thanks in advance.

Konstantin says: 08/02/2015 at 11:45

Good afternoon. Need your advice. There is a bar on which I want to put a decorative stone, the counter is sheathed with chipboard, but after reading here that it is not advisable to glue the stone on the chipboard, I became thoughtful! What if I screw drywall on the chipboard with self-tapping screws and then glue the stone on it. So can it be done or not? thanks in advance for your reply!!!

irvine says: 08/08/2015 at 13:55

Good day! Do you think it is necessary to plaster the wall before laying decorative "bricks" on a gypsum basis (dimensions 240x63x8 mm), if the vertical and horizontal difference is not more than 12 mm

Tatiana says: 08/17/2015 at 15:35

Good afternoon! Please tell me what to do if the water-based varnish does not dry out, after applying it has already been 3 weeks or a month, it may have been applied too abundantly or from hot weather, until now it sticks ... .. Thank you)))

Galina says: 08/25/2015 at 18:16

Can anyone help, they put a gypsum stone under the brick. The width of the seam is not the same everywhere, since the stone does not have a completely even edge. Without grout, I don't like something. How to rub the seams? we can't find any.

Tanya says: 09/02/2015 at 14:35

Hello! Please tell me, is it possible to use gypsum stone in the bathroom, provided that I cover it with a double layer of varnish (on the front side and ribs) and use grout?
Thanks in advance

Catherine says: 09/10/2015 at 18:02

Hello! Can you please tell me what temperature the decorative concrete stone can withstand? Which minimum distance from a cast-iron stove-fireplace can it be laid? Thank you!

Anatoly says: 09/14/2015 at 03:01

Hello. Please tell me if it is possible to decorate the wall above the coal stove. gypsum stone or will it collapse from temperature?

Svetlana says: 09/23/2015 at 13:55

Hello, tell me, please, we want to lay out the wall with a gypsum brick Monte Alba, the wall is already putty, what can be done with it? how to remove the putty?

Igor says: 09/28/2015 at 03:04

Hello! Please tell me, is it possible to lay a stone on liquid wallpaper and on a painted wall water-dispersion paint? Thank you.

Andrew says: 11/13/2015 at 17:07

I combined the loggia with the kitchen and I want to lay out the parapet with gypsum tiles inside the room. The parapet is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam 100mm thick.

Oksana says: 11/16/2015 at 18:30

Hello! We bought a decorative brick. We didn’t check it immediately after delivery (it wasn’t possible). After a while, the boxes were opened, but it is very fragile and the back side is uneven. It’s too late to return, it took a long time. if you apply 3 points of nails on the surface of a brick and press it against the wall, then the brick breaks due to uneven surface and fragility. What should I do? Putting knauf on perflix, applying this mixture to the wall and brick, spreading it over the entire surface? Like butter on bread?) The brick is milky, but it will get dirty from the mortar. ?And then apply wax or varnish? Ideally, the wall should be white, matte. THANK YOU!

Andrew says: 11/17/2015 at 03:47 pm

I ordered a "line of stone" - slate.
But it hurts headache- the walls are puttied to "zero" on drywall.
I'm thinking of going with Ceresit 17 and then 16 for better grip.
I would like to use liquid nails, but 35m2 plaster tiles is the weight. Or will it keep?
If not liquid, then options:
Knauf Perfix is a drywall adhesive (it is believed that it is better, because putty draws water from cement adhesives).
Ceresit 16 or Lux Plus.
Liquid is easier, but something people periodically sting that it doesn’t hold well. Andrew says: 11/18/2015 at 10:19 am

Tried. Doesn't seem to be holding up well. It’s definitely not worth regretting when you press it - it flattens into a narrow strip. It's easy to apply but you have to wait for it to dry. True, I tried it on a concrete stone, but it is heavy.

Vladislav says: 23.11.2015 at 20:09

Good afternoon, great forum, thanks for the articles and advice. I concluded that it is better to prime the stone with back side, not to mention the walls, you can’t glue on the wallpaper, and it’s better to use a special glue for gypsum stone or tile. That's all good) but here's how to decide on the plinth, the situation is such that a niche in the corner of the room will be sealed with a stone, and it turns out that the plinth and fillet will not be around the entire perimeter of the room, how will it look? Judging by the photo, it looks better and more authentic without a plinth, with a fillet, while the situation is not at all clear, make it up to the stone, that is, dock with it, or make a fillet completely around the perimeter and bring the stone up to it at the top (then there will be a gap between the stone and the ceiling )

The master persuaded me to make window slopes in the loggia to match the wall, laying it out with decorative stone (gypsum bricks). Didn't like the result. Looks rough. How to remove decorative stone?

Olga says: 03/25/2017 at 17:20

Hello! please answer - is it possible to make gypsum putty for sealing tile joints? if not, then advise how to seal the joints and seams in the tile from artificial stone? Please reply to email. mail. Thank you in advance!

Laying artificial stone with your own hands is much easier than similar work using natural material. Such a stone can be put on any wall, the main thing is to take care of special glue and necessary tools. Well, if something went wrong in the process of laying a decorative artificial stone, the material is always easy to replace, since its cost, in accordance with the natural one, is disproportionately lower.

Laying technology of decorative artificial stone (with photo)

One of the main advantages of artificial stone is the ease of installation. It is worth emphasizing that 2-3 craftsmen can paste over a surface of approximately 360 square meters with this material in one to two weeks. m. Despite the seeming simplicity of the process, without experience, it is still not worth taking on such work - after all, every business has its own professional subtleties. In addition, the masonry pattern can be difficult even for an experienced specialist.

This material fits well on almost any surface and is attached to it with special adhesives. How to lay out an artificial stone with your own hands so that the walls turn out not only beautiful, but also durable?

Before laying artificial stone on the wall, you should take care of the tools, equipment and containers for mixing adhesives and grouts. You will need: plastic, easy-to-clean buckets with a capacity of 7-10 liters - 3-4 pieces, simple and notched spatulas, trowel, mixing drill with nozzles. Level, twine and edged board or timber when laying artificial stone will be needed for the construction of supporting formwork around the perimeter of the house. The lower horizontal row of cladding elements is laid out and supported on it. In addition, it is desirable to have a mobile or portable stone-cutting machine (in extreme cases, an angle grinder, commonly referred to as a "grinder") with disks for dry cutting of concrete and a portable emery machine with two circles (with coarse and medium grain) for fine adjustment stone. The latter is especially important if the openings of windows and / or doors have an arched contour. Polyethylene film when laying artificial stone on the wall, it is necessary for the preliminary layout of the facing elements, which are laid out face up to protect the lower planes from contamination and getting wet.

See what tools are required for laying artificial stone in the photo below:

There are two ways to lay artificial stone - with jointing and seamless. The first option is more common, since this method significantly saves facing material due to the fact that the stones are attached at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from each other. At the same time, some types of material are made on the basis of laying artificial stones only in a seamless way, so that they fit snugly against each other with their end parts. Therefore, for the case when it is necessary to make stitching joints, prepare in advance strips of plywood 15 mm thick or MDF with different lengths (from 5 to 60 cm), corresponding in width to the stitching joints. According to the technology of laying artificial stone, the universal size of the seam is 0.9-1.2 cm.

This video demonstrates how to put artificial stone on the wall of the house:

The best collections of artificial stone for masonry walls (with video)

Collections "Clay" and "Clavite"(imitating different bricks), as well as "Ellinite"(imitation of sawn rusticated dolomite) and "Tsocolite"(designed for its size and texture for facing the basement mouth of facades) are easy to install and designed for drinking joints, 9 to 12 mm wide, and elements, for example, the Gorikhriz collection, require seamless installation.

Collection of artificial stone "Sea breeze" it seems quite simple to install, however, when installing its elements, some features of 3.7 square meters should be taken into account. m of stones with a unique texture have only the same width of 4 cm. They are all different in length and have vertical sections located under different angles. Therefore, when laying artificial stone on a wall, joint inserts are needed only for horizontal rows. The vertical distance between the stones should be done “by eye”. In addition, one should take into account the visual alternation of stones that have three textures that pass into each other, since the surface of the elements of the collection imitates stones made from blocks. Their structure was formed as a result of various stratifications, and the surface was repeatedly subjected to erosion from temporary immersion in the sea, exposure to rain and wind, sun and ice.

Before correctly laying an artificial stone, it will not be useless to know that there are figured inserts in the collection (they are equal in height to the height of two stones plus the width of the joint). Inserts are mounted with a frequency of at least 1 piece and no more than three per 1 sq. m of the surface of the cladding "scattered".

Masonry collection "Bravour" is also simple, but nevertheless requires knowledge of some of the subtleties associated with it. "Bravour" imitates the walls of ancient castles and is perfect for edging windows, columns, protruding details in architectural solution facades, as well as for interior work, for example, for lining fireplaces.

The collection is combined with natural stone and light wood. This artificial stone is also often used in the decoration of the plinths of country cottages.

Many architects use this stone as an interior stone, since the thickness of the stones does not exceed 2.5 cm. It also looks great on the facades of buildings when facing corners, framing windows and doors.

An indisputable fact was its use for cladding small houses(for example, a bungalow), light landscape architectural structures (, landscape flower girls of rectangular shapes).

All material from this collection, intended for laying artificial stone with your own hands, is the same size in height - 195 cm, which determines its installation in the classic horizontal-tape method with jointing 1-1.2 cm wide.

Based on the height, the collection includes stones of the same length (square), double length (two squares), two and a half squares long (2.5 squares) and half length (1/2 square). Therefore, before correctly laying an artificial stone on a wall, it should be borne in mind that in a row the material must be placed strictly in a row and only in height.

In addition to the above stones, in order to avoid the monotony of one-height strip masonry, the collection also includes stones that in pairs are 195 cm high, but taking into account the minus of the joint between them. This is the first pair of stones, having a length of 2 squares, and the second pair of stones, having a length of 1/2 square. When installing stones from the second pair, be careful, as their length is 5-6 mm longer than the height.

How to put artificial stone on the wall with your own hands (with video)

Now that the dimensional subtleties of the collection stones are clarified, read the instructions on how to properly lay out an artificial stone.

The most important thing to remember is that in the laying row you should:

alternate stones of different lengths;
avoid combining the joint seam of adjacent rows vertically (lower and upper);
before laying, always lay out several rows of stone on the ground, laying a polyethylene film. The last point is also important in order to avoid the proximity of stones with the same textured surface pattern and so that the color spots of the color of the stones are evenly distributed over the entire lined surface.

Before laying out an artificial stone, take care of the connection to the place of work running water and electricity, strictly observing all safety measures. You should protect yourself from electric shock, and power tools - from moisture and short circuits.

Make sure you have scaffolding on site if you need it for cladding work.

Once again, check whether the base is properly prepared for sticking the cladding you have chosen and whether there are measuring containers for mixing the required mass of glue with water.

Verify the quality of the cladding material and its availability in the right quantity or, if necessary, the schedule for its delivery in accordance with the planned cladding schedule. This also applies to the presence of glue and grout.

As for the choice of the tile elements themselves, it is recommended that you first lay them on the ground in the right order, taking them out of the boxes. Otherwise, you risk not only getting contrasting color spots on the wall, but also disrupting the masonry pattern itself.

While one team member composes and kneads adhesive mixture with water, the other two lay out 1.5-2 square meters. m of facing elements on pre-spread polyethylene.

The solution is applied with a notched trowel to the back flat surface of the stone, and the excess is removed with a trowel and the stone is set in place. Slightly pressing on it and shaking it a little clockwise and counterclockwise, we provide reliable adhesion to the base, “squeezing out” the excess glue into the voids formed by the teeth of the spatula. The stone itself rests on the bottom of the formwork. The sticker starts from the corner element and leads from it small areas 50-70 cm in the direction from the bottom horizontally and up.

However, it should be remembered that if the project provides for edging doors and windows, corners of buildings, columns, etc. special elements, they are installed first. If you need jointing seams, then you should not forget about the slats prepared for this and insert them between the cladding elements, both horizontally and vertically. After the glue has set, these inserts are removed, wiped with a damp cloth and used again.

The video "Laying artificial stone with your own hands" demonstrates the steps described above:

Each element from the previously laid out masonry pattern, starting from the last one in the bottom row, is transferred one by one to the base. The last stones, which form the edges of the laid out drawing, remain in place, supplemented with new ones in the course of work. If necessary, some stones are adjusted to size using a stone-cutting machine or grinder. You can also use a sander if needed.

Upon completion of the cladding procedure, but not earlier than after 48 hours, you can start filling the joint joints with grout. This can be done using a special gun with a nozzle or a cone-shaped plastic bag with a hole of the required diameter at the sharp end, which the master cuts on his own. It looks like cooking bags, and they operate on the same principle: the diluted grout is portioned into the bag from its wide part and squeezed into the seam gap through the hole made. Hands with a bag move along the seam, gradually filling it with squeezed grout. This is reminiscent of the work of a confectioner decorating a cake with cream patterns. The grout gun is also similar to cream injector with different nozzles and operates on the same principle.

When filling the seam with grout, you should be careful and keep the gun or bag under right angle moving it smoothly and evenly. Make sure that the grout evenly fills the seam. If it is lacking in some areas, then you will have to report the layer to the desired level, and if there is a lot, remove it and transfer it to thin areas.

Strictly follow the time when it will be possible to shape the grout, compact, etc. This is stated in the instructions for this grout. Do not miss the time when you can start this work and how long you can continue it. Nothing can be done with a frozen grout, but working with a completely fresh one is of no use. If grout has dripped onto the surface of the cladding, then wait until it has hardened enough to remove it with a grout trowel. Never attempt to remove and/or wash off fresh grout with water: so you will only stain the front surface of the stone.

The grout should tightly fill the seam, reaching the entire plane of the base and the end planes of the glued stones, leaving no voids or cracks. Otherwise, the rain moisture that got there will destroy it gradually, and when it freezes, with the onset of cold weather, it will turn into ice. When it thaws, the ice expands. Under the influence of this, explosive destruction begins not only of the grout mass, but also of the adhesive with the lining.

Special jointing spatulas are used to compact the freshly filled grout and level it in the joint. They come in different widths, depending on the number. Therefore, always use a grouting spatula, the width of which, on the one hand, allows it to enter the entire width of the joint without problems, and on the other hand, move along it without getting stuck. With the help of a spatula, the outer surface of the grout can be given not only a straight shape - it is enough to walk a second time along the straight surface made with a jointing spatula with an end that has been given an arcuate shape, tumbled in relation to its sides. The result is a convex arcuate grout.

Watch the video "How to put artificial stone on the wall" to better understand how this work is done:

WORK WITH DECORATIVE STONE

The following tips will help you correctly lay the decorative stone on the wall so that the house is always cozy, warm and beautiful.

FACING

The cladding process is the laying of decorative stone on the surface using specialized adhesive solutions. The working surface is pre-cleaned, leveled, and, if necessary, dried. Although facing is a creative work, there are some mandatory rules that must be followed in order to make the process simple and without any problems, and of course, to get the best result. If you want the stonework to have a natural look, you must use corner fragments. They are specially designed for facing corners, and allow you to achieve the desired effect. In addition, high-quality styling can only be achieved using branded mixtures from reliable manufacturers.

To lay the stone, you need to prepare:

1. Electric drill-mixer - with its help all the necessary solutions are prepared.
2. Square and building level.
3. wooden block and a rubber mallet allow you to fit and upset parts.
4. Bulgarian for cutting stone (there is a special disc).
5. Syringe gun or special bag - for grouting.
6. Capacity for the preparation of grout and adhesive solution.
7. paint brush- will be needed to moisten the surface and material.
8. Metal brush - to get rid of unnecessary debris from the surface.
9. For measurements, you need a ruler or tape measure, as well as special cords for horizontal beacons.
10. For cleaning seams and leveling the surface with a brush or brush.
11. The water repellent is applied with a sprayer or brush.
12. Trowel, trowel.

First of all, before laying, the surface is prepared. Wall requirements: strength, evenness, cleanliness, no hint of deformation or shrinkage, with good adhesion so that the adhesive mortar sets. As a rule, to test the latter condition, the surface of the wall is sprayed with a small amount of water. At the same time, drops may appear in some places, that is, moisture has not been absorbed into the surface, then additional mechanical processing is required. In the summer, it is necessary to lay the stone, moistening the surface. This advice also applies to the wrong side of the material, although you need to wait a few minutes, then the moisture will be absorbed. If the surface strongly absorbs moisture, then it is necessary to cover it with a primer in advance.

After preparatory work, it is necessary to pull out stones from different boxes, and lay them on a leveled surface, with a minimum scale of two meters. This will allow you to visually see what the final result will be after facing the wall. Stones need to be laid as follows, small elements next to large ones, and choose different types according to texture and color. You should not create areas consisting only of small or large fragments that are the same in color and height. When choosing a decorative stone installation option, you do not need to follow strict rules, as we have already said, this is a creative process. Therefore, it is better to interchange elements until the desired variant and appearance are obtained. When you have decided on the option, you can begin the masonry itself.

If there are corner elements, installation begins with them. They are stacked in turn - first the short sides, then the long ones, again the short ones, and so on in turn. From the selected facing stone, the installation method is selected. For this reason, some start at the top edge, others at the bottom of the wall. If the installation is carried out from above, then the glue will not fall on the laid rows, but if from below, then slipping can be avoided. On some facing materials from the wrong side there may be a glossy or foamy layer, as well as cement milk, then they are removed with a metal brush. During installation, it is not necessary that the vertical seams are on top of each other. By the way, a decorative stone is simply amenable to processing, if necessary. Therefore, to give the desired size, a grinder with an appropriate disk is used.

Next, glue is prepared, how this is done is described in the instructions on the manufacturer's packaging. On the work surface, the adhesive is applied in an even layer, with a spatula. The use of a smooth or notched trowel depends on the texture and thickness of the facing material. Then the glue is applied to the wrong side of the stone, the thickness of the layer can vary from one to six millimeters, the main thing is that the element on this side is evenly covered with glue. It is better to avoid a large amount of glue, because then the stone will slide. The adhesive solution is intended for facade works with material with a maximum thickness of twelve millimeters. It is not necessary to increase the calculated thickness of the adhesive layer. To ensure good adhesion to the wall, the stone must first be pressed, then slightly moved. We get rid of excess glue by tapping on the material or pressing on it. Only the glue should not be squeezed out much. If the facing material moves or slides, it means that there was too little or too much glue, or the prepared glue solution turned out to be liquid.

It is necessary to work carefully with glue so as not to stain the front surface of the stone. When laying a rectangular stone, you need to follow horizontal lines, the level will help with this. A dowel of the required width will help to monitor the size of the seam. Some advise using solid polystyrene foam, this material is cut into pieces with a clerical knife desired thickness. When the glue dries, you can start stitching. It is better to wait from three to five days, it depends on the temperature in the room.

Jointing means the use of a special cement grout, which looks like a masonry mortar. This is done so that moisture does not get under the cladding, and the elements are not deformed during negative temperatures. If the grouting is carried out correctly, the lined surface will be protected, and the end result will be attractive. appearance. The grout is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For a special effect, you can add a certain color to the grout. To begin with, a dye is added to the dry mixture, only then the solution is mixed. When working with a mixer, it is necessary to use low speed, then a homogeneous mass will be obtained. Then the solution is prepared according to the attached instructions. To fill the joints with grout, you can use a syringe gun or a special bag. The selected tool is filled with mortar, then slowly squeezed into these seams until they are full. From the back of the material, at least five millimeters, you need to fill the seams with grout. Such masonry will have a pronounced relief, a contrast of light and shadow.

If you want, then the seams are filled to the full depth. Then the result will be a smoother texture. The choice of method depends on the decision of the designer and the drafted project. The solution will begin to dry out after half an hour, and you can already smooth it with a spatula. Drying time depends on the type of grout, as well as humidity and temperature in the room or on the street. After the grout has hardened, the excess is removed with a trowel. And after complete drying, the surface of the seam must be completely leveled and polished.

If the masonry is completely dry, then you can start processing with a hydrophobic composition. This protective layer allows you to protect the masonry from dirt and moisture. First you need to carefully read the instructions for the water repellent before you start using it. It is worth trying on a small area, on the invisible side of the object. The selected area is treated with a water repellent, then after complete drying, you can see if this is reflected in the color of the lined surface. Only then is it worth completely processing the entire facade. The hydrophobic composition can be applied to the surface with a spray gun or a conventional brush.

The stone can be performed completely independently. Installation is not difficult, but the result exceeds all expectations. The surface is incredibly beautiful, refined and very original. It should be noted that not only decorative properties, it allows you to get a coating that will have excellent performance properties.

Decorative stone - advantages and disadvantages

Do-it-yourself laying of decorative stone is carried out in any premises. It is actively used for facing various openings, highlighting columns and partitions. Combinations with living plants, fountains look good. Of course, many believe that such a finishing material is used exclusively to create a classic. This is not true, the products look great even with newfangled trends in the design world.

On a note! If most of the room is planned to be decorated with stone, then additional lighting should be considered in advance. The fact is that such a surface can turn out to be quite gloomy. Although there is another solution - to alternate light and dark shades of the material.

The advantages of this finishing option are many:

The work is done without much difficulty. Laying stone is made on a special glue, preparations don't take much time. Naturally, if there are no building skills, then you need to practice a little.
Environmental friendliness. Indeed, the presence of artificial stone in the apartment does not pose a danger to human health. Therefore, it is used to decorate children's rooms and bedrooms, which are noticeably transformed.
Durability. If you want to get a coating that will last for decades, then this is the most good option. to mechanical damage and the almost complete absence of burnout - make the material great solution in many situations.
Large selection of textures and colors. Modern technologies allow the production of products that can imitate any natural coating or be completely individual.

To get the most impressive interior - you need to show imagination. You can glue according to a certain pattern or completely randomly.

Preliminary preparation

You should carefully consider the acquisition of all necessary materials. Sometimes the question arises: what to glue the decorative stone on the walls? To do the job correctly, it is better to buy a special glue. It is designed to fit such a product.

Choosing a stone is a very responsible process. The fact is that the technology of its production allows it to be stamped even in garage cooperatives. Naturally, this affects the final quality, because many manufacturers use low-quality components. Therefore, it is better to give preference to reliable companies that have proven themselves on the good side.

On a note! Many manufacturers provide detailed recommendations working with your material. In particular, on the label or in the instructions, the adhesive that is most suitable for laying the elements is indicated.

There are two main mounting methods: with or without jointing. According to the first option, the cladding is carried out with products that have the correct shape, for example, brick. The second method is used when working with a material that imitates a complex texture, such as slate.

It should be borne in mind that the stitching option requires a special tool, as well as a mixture that will fill the space. Special attention given to the choice of color. It is necessary for tinting the joint mortar in order to achieve a match in tones or contrast.

Necessary tools and fixtures

Installation of decorative stone requires the following tools:

Putty knife. It is used to distribute the adhesive on the surface, and if necessary, on the wrong side of the decorative material.
Rubber mallet. This is a very important device, they tap the stacked fragments. Many masters believe that such a process is best done with a fist.
On a note! You can not use a simple hammer, it can damage the surface. But if there is no other option, then a wooden plate is necessarily enclosed.
Container for mixing solution. It is better to choose a container that will be convenient for scooping.
Bulgarian with a suitable disc (for concrete). Cutting is carried out in compliance with elementary safety standards. Trimming is carried out in order to lay a decorative stone in the corners.
Sander. This device is necessary when working with natural stone that has facial defects.

The tool is prepared in advance so that during the facing activities - everything is at hand.

Working with the base

Do-it-yourself artificial stone laying begins with careful surface preparation. This process is of great importance. Of course, the technology of mounting a stone on a wall suggests that the base may have some irregularities that will be leveled. decorative material. But you can not get carried away, because if you allow the presence of significant damage, then the collapse of the structure is possible.

Preparation work is divided into several stages:

The old decorative layer is removed. The surface is thoroughly cleaned.
The wall is tapped for voids and hidden cracks. Such defects must be corrected. Gypsum or acrylic putty is used for coating.
On a note! If a we are talking about “bare” bases, then they are pre-coated with a primer and two layers: starting and finishing.
Using a metal brush, they pass well over the surface. This is done in order to leave numerous scratches that will serve as a better adhesive adhesion.
Next, a primer is applied, which will increase adhesion and reduce the absorbency of the solution.

To get a more streamlined laying pattern, the elements are first laid out on the floor.

Installation of decorative stone

There are general rules that allow you to lay artificial stone on the wall. They are as follows:

It is necessary to lay the material subject to certain indicators. The temperature should be between five and thirty degrees. If this range is exceeded, then it is advisable to pre-wet the contact surfaces.
Preliminary markup is in progress. Conventionally, it looks like this: lines are drawn in increments of 45-50 cm. This will allow you to more accurately determine the order of placement and fit, if docking is expected.

Advice! When working with some products, there is a difficulty - both sides of the fragment can serve as the front. But often the manufacturer indicates which side should be used as a decorative one.

Laying technology

Installation is carried out as follows:

being prepared right amount solution: if it is supposed to use a dry version. This is done very simply. Water is poured into the container, it should be room temperature. Next, pour the dry matter and knead well.
Decorative stones are mounted on the walls, starting from the corner. Gluing begins with the first fragment, which fits at the very bottom. The order is:
- the mixture is applied to the wall and washed well;
- if required, then cover the wrong side of the decorative product with a small layer;
- the fragment is applied to the surface, well pressed;
- with a mallet they tap on the element;
- further, you can glue the next fragment.

On a note! If there is too much solution, then it begins to go beyond the edges of the material. Such surpluses are immediately removed. It is necessary to prevent them from getting on the front part, otherwise there is a high probability of damage.

Some products vary in size and are stacked with great care. First, you must follow the chosen scheme. Secondly, if you immediately put a large area, then it can slide.

To make the work go much faster, the elements are pre-numbered. This is done at the time of drawing up the schema.

Some styling features:

The seamless styling option is considered the simplest. Fragments fit as tightly as possible. You should get a surface that will look completely monolithic. The main thing is to immediately remove excess glue. If this is not done, problems may arise.
Stitching the seams suggests that more effort will have to be made. After all, it is necessary to form joints. Looks good options where the seams have a more uniform size.

Laying with the formation of seams is as follows:

The fragment is laid on the wall, the order completely repeats the standard technology.
The next element is glued at some distance. To achieve uniformity - use a spacer. It can be pieces of plastic, hardboard, chipboard. Thus, it is possible to form the desired joints.
A day later, the laid material is processed. To do this, the seams are filled with a mixture, which is preliminarily or subsequently tinted.

If required, the artificial stone walls are coated with paints and varnishes.