Shelter of standard roses for the winter. Preparing roses for winter How to spud roses if it rains

Earth as a heater for roses: advantages and disadvantages

When creating protective winter shelters, garden soil is used as mulch, high bushes with it. However, quite strict requirements are imposed on the “winter” mulch:

the material should not be moisture-intensive;
the material should not cake and compact;
the material must maintain high breathability throughout the winter period.

Garden land does not fully meet these requirements. Under its high layer, it is really well preserved root neck rose bushes. More problems arise with hilled shoots and buds on them. Much here depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and wintering conditions. The main disadvantages of the land, in this case, include the following:

tendency to strong absorption of moisture and subsequent freezing;
loss of air permeability and heat-insulating properties during compaction.

When considering whether it is worth spudding roses with earth, it should also be remembered that in winter, plants need to be protected not only from frost, but also from decay, soaking and decay.

Tip #1 Garden soil may contain spores of dangerous microorganisms. Before covering roses with it, it is necessary to treat the soil with fungicides and achieve its microbiological purity.

Hilling roses for the winter with earth: arguments for and against

There are ongoing discussions about the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth among rose growers with great horticultural experience (See also the article ⇒). Opinions are mixed and can be grouped as follows:

Rose growers also pay attention to the fact that the earth should not be in direct contact with the shoots - this increases the risk of their decay.

Rules for the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth

If it is not possible to cover the roses in some other way, pre-winter hilling land must be performed based on the following rules:

In regions where it rains in winter, covering roses with earth is strongly discouraged. Under damp soil, the shoots are guaranteed to die.

Tip #2 If the winters in the region are too severe and frosty, hilling the earth is not enough. An additional construction of an air-dry shelter above the bush will be required.

Topical questions about hilling roses with earth

Question number 1. Do all roses need winter hilling?

Not all. Hilling is required for own-rooted roses - their root system is more sensitive to frost than that of roses grafted onto frost-resistant rootstocks. Hilling is also recommended for shallow planting, when the grafting site is located above the ground surface.

Question number 2. Is it possible to dig up the laid lashes of climbing roses with earth?

You can, but you must follow all the above rules. It is also important to remember that dropping will protect the shoots from frost, but will increase the risk of them withering. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly assess the climatic features of your region and abandon this method if winters are characterized by instability and frequent thaws.

The first thing to do to protect roses is to spud all the bushes until the moment when frosts begin at night and the temperature drops below -3 ° C. If these frosts have already been noted, then hilling roses is prohibited. Otherwise, it will cause the plants to die. In such a situation, it is only allowed to use air-dry shelters to protect spray roses in winter.

Before hilling, it is necessary to remove all leaves from the lower parts of the shoots and spray them with Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid (its 1-2% solution is used).

It is necessary to start hilling in mid-September (in the northwestern part of Russia) with such land in which there are no residues of inorganic origin that have not decomposed. The size of the bushes directly affects the height of earthen mounds. If the roses are undersized, then they are spud up to 10 centimeters in height, if they are tall, then up to 35 centimeters.

In order not to accidentally expose the root system of plants, you can not take the land that is located next to the bushes. You need to bring it from somewhere else. In the spring, after rocking out, this land is used to sprinkle the soil around each bush, and this must be done once a year.

In the event that there is no land of the required quality, there is the option of hilling needles with sawdust, sand or peat. But the results from the use of such materials will be worse. If hilling is carried out early, this will not affect the development of plants and their decorative effect. Their normal vegetative growth and flowering continues.

After the steady cold begins, and the earth freezes up to 6 centimeters deep, the roses are completely covered. Before starting it, the tops of all shoots are cut off with a pruner so that the resulting hemp can be completely covered with insulation material. If the bushes are tall, then they are cut at a height of 25 cm from the level of the soil itself, and for undersized bushes - in accordance with the length that their shoots have.

If pruning is carried out in autumn, then the work of sheltering roses becomes much easier, and this is in contrast to the previously used practice, when the shoots were bent to the ground and pinned. Today, the previously existing opinion that cut roses do not winter well has been completely refuted.

Also, pruning in the fall helps to heal plants if they are affected by fungi, since spores of wintering mushrooms are also removed along with the harvested shoots.

Those leaves that remain after pruning on the shoots must be completely removed and taken out of the rose garden, and then destroyed if they are already affected by diseases. If the shoots of plants are healthy, then they are used in order to propagate plants.

It is necessary to carefully sweep away the snow that has already fallen on the frozen ground, and proceed to the actual shelter of the plants. If the shelter takes place using peat or leaves, then it is necessary to first spread the spruce branches around all the bushes so that the needles “look” outward and prevent all kinds of rodents from penetrating the roses. If plants are insulated with pine needles, such protection with spruce branches is not required, since the sawdust is very prickly, and mice cannot make moves in them.

It is necessary to pour materials for insulation on previously hilled bushes so that there is an elevation in the center, and melt water flows calmly from such a shelter.

The outer border of the shelter should be behind the bushes at a distance of up to 60 centimeters. This is very important when, in a harsh, little snowy winter, it is necessary to protect the roots of roses from freezing.

After the plants are covered, it is necessary to immediately cover the material for insulation with a film. To prevent it from being blown away, be sure to press all the edges with the help of rails and other heavy objects. When laying the film, you must be careful and make sure that not a single stump sticks out above the insulation material. Otherwise, they will pierce the film when it settles under the load of snow that has fallen on it.

If there are such hemp, then they should be cut off or another layer of material for insulation should be placed. The film can be replaced by another material that is moisture resistant - roofing felt, roofing material or otherwise. It is important that the insulation material is completely dry until spring. It is on this that the successful preservation of roses depends.

The thickness of the protection layer depends on how thermally conductive the protection material is, what the weather is like at the beginning of winter, and where the rose garden is located.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then it is necessary to take into account the level of humidity. If sawdust was obtained in the process of sawing wood that was damp, then they contain a lot of water. Their ability to retain heat is half that of those that are completely dry. If a 30-cm layer of sawdust is poured, and it is -30 ° C outside, then a temperature of 1.5 ° C will remain in the upper level of the soil.

If the sawdust is raw, then in order to maintain exactly the same temperature, a layer twice as large is required. If the winter is initially snowy and warm, then in order to protect the roses, you only need to pour 15 centimeters of dry sawdust. If the weather is frosty and there is little snow, then the thickness of the poured layer should be increased to 30 centimeters. If the winter is windy, then exactly the same layer is needed for protection.

If the roses are covered with sawdust and film, then they should overwinter well. Under them, a stable temperature of the soil is maintained throughout the winter, and in the spring it rises extremely slowly, when the air and the earth are already actively warmed up by the sun. This helps the roses stay dormant until the night frost has passed.

It is advisable to use dry and fibrous peat for shelter. It must be prepared in advance and dried well. All this is done in the summer. In no case should you use raw or, especially, wet peat. It is very important that the shelter is protected from water. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather and where the rose garden is located.

It is very easy and affordable to use leaves to protect roses in winter. If applied correctly, they will protect the bushes very well from possible cooling. Any leaves are used for covering, but oak leaves are best. Harvesting occurs when it is warm and sunny. Before direct use, you need to store them in heaps that are reliably protected from rain.

In no case should you cover with wet leaves. They will settle under their own weight and compress so that they will not let air through. The layer of leaves should be 30 centimeters if the beginning of winter is snowy, and if there is no snow, but very coldy up to 50 centimeters. A layer of such a large thickness is needed due to the strong subsidence of the leaves and the partial loss of their ability to retain heat.

A very responsible job is to remove all shelters from roses in the spring. If roses are hilled, then they winter well, provided that frost holes are formed above the level at which hilling was carried out. But very often in autumn the wind sways the shoots, and holes in the form of funnels appear in the mounds, which are not always visible. In this case, frost holes may well appear below, and the safety of the bushes will be under serious threat.

When warm days come (April, end of March), it is necessary to remove snow from all shelters. Next, you should remove the film, then, when it completely thaws at the edges, it should not be under the sun for a long time. If you remove it in time, it will last a very long time. It is very important that the water vapors that are formed during the heating of the shelter freely go outside.

After the mounds have thawed, you need to immediately unpack the bushes so that if there are frost holes, all the ice can thaw and all damaged tissues dry out. To do this, the bushes are opened so that air can pass freely, and they are closed with insulation material only when there is a possibility that the temperature may drop to -5 ° C.

If there are no freezer shoots from below, then the bushes should be left a little hilled - the earth will not harm the plants.

At the very end of April, it is necessary to unwind all the roses, and remove all materials for insulation from the rose garden, leaving only a small amount of them. This period can be characterized by slight frosts at night. New shoots feel very good negative temperatures. All it takes is a slight frost to kill them. That is why, if there is a possibility of matinees, you need to protect the bushes with materials specially designed for this. Completely the material for insulation is removed only in mid-May.

Peat and sawdust can be used several times. They should be stored in a place that is protected from rain, and specially dried if they become damp during the winter. But, if the roses were affected by the fungus, then the materials cannot be reused.

For roses to keep abundant flowering, annually in the autumn they need to be pruned. In addition, for thermophilic culture reliable shelter from frost for the winter is important. How to do this - videos and recommendations from experts will help.

Tasks of the grower

A cultivated rose is a delicate and capricious flower. Every gardener has his own algorithm autumn processing, based on own experience contact with these plants. The main stages of preparing a flower garden for winter are about the same.

Pruning is accompanied by other winter preparation activities:

foliage removal;
hilling bushes;
shelter them from the cold.

Pruning strengthens the immunity of the rose

Both young seedlings and adult plants are subject to pruning. Pre-winter procedure strengthens roses:

increases resistance to frost;
provides access sunlight to stems;
ventilates the crown;
encourages the development of new, stronger buds next spring;
stimulates abundant flowering and the appearance of larger flowers.

Attention! Proceed to pruning and other procedures should be only after the complete end of flowering.

Usually the flower garden fades as soon as the first autumn frosts hit at night. Before that, do not remove any fruits or shoots of the plant - this will only provoke the development of new ones, to the detriment of flowering and the health of the bush.

Preparatory procedures before pruning

Pruning and warming begin with the removal of leaves. It is better to do this 5-7 days before winter training plants:

collect fallen leaves from the ground;
carefully remove sheet plates from the bottom of the stem;
try not to hurt the stem itself;
stretch the procedure for 2-3 days, removing the leaves gradually. If you pick everything at once, it will become stressful for the plant.

Attention! Fungi and viruses overwinter on the foliage, and under the protective material they tend to rot and mold.

The next step is hilling. Spend it in dry weather:

Hilling bushes

Spray the stems and the near-stem circle for the purpose of disinfection. Use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any other antifungal mixture. Leave the plant to dry for a day.
Form an earthen rampart 20-30 cm high at the base of the stems. Instead of soil, you can simply pour the same layer of dry peat or loose compost.
If the end of autumn is expected to be rainy, throw a film around the bushes for this time. You can cover with a plastic cap and the whole plant. This is not frost protection - on the eve of pre-winter insulation, the film should be removed. It is important that the hilly place remains dry until permanent frosts.

Attention! Hilling will protect the coarsened base of the stems from cracking during cold weather. It will also additionally protect the lower kidneys and root. Procedures are performed for all varieties of roses.

Cutting technology

The procedure involves the removal of wilted inflorescences, buds that did not have time to ripen, weak, young and diseased stems. If any of the above remains for the winter, then with high humidity under the covering material, it simply rots. This is fraught with infection and death of the entire plant with the first spring thaws. The fungus can infect the entire flower garden.

After pruning, only 3-5 stiffened stumps from strong and formed shoots should remain from each bush. Each of them retains 1-2 dormant buds. Shoots should be located so that when they grow back they do not thicken the crown. Together with young branches it is undesirable to leave:

Trimming process

3 year olds or older;
from a large number side branches;
covered with dry bark.

Attention! Cut plant parts must not be left on the site or thrown into compost heap. Pathogens live on them, so it is best to burn the material.

Different types of roses have their own pruning features:

Polyanthus. Cut flowers below the ramifications. Remove all unripe, thin branches under the root.
Hybrid tea. Cut to a level of 50 cm above the surface.
floribunda. Blooms even after the first frost. If you cut it at the root, next season the bush will turn out lower and will be abundantly covered with flowers. If you leave more shoots and make the stumps longer, taller and slender bushes will grow in spring, and flowers will be only at the tops.

How to insulate roses for the winter

If the autumn is warm, do not rush to cover the roses, even if it rains. It is important that under the film the flowers do not begin to rot. Wait until average daily temperature drops to 0°C. Some gardeners do not cover the rose garden until stable frosts of -3 ... -7 ° C are established on the street.

Preparing for winter

The best option is protection that will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from moisture. For these tasks, wooden boxes or similar structures are suitable. Their depth is about 60-70 cm.

From above throw waterproof warming material. At the end, it is necessary to provide an opening, which should be periodically opened for ventilation. Under such shelter, roses will not begin to rot and will not suffer from frost.

Attention! Do not use cardboard or paper boxes. This material tends to accumulate moisture in itself. After the first winter thaw, the cardboard will get wet, fold and transfer all the moisture to the plant. By spring you will have a moldy rose. Lutrasil also receives negative reviews because it can get wet when snow melts.

Climbing varieties of roses should first be removed from the supports and laid on the ground with an even lash or ring. Standard flowers must be carefully tilted into the surface and only then insulated. Sometimes you have to slightly dig the root with the ground on the opposite side of the plant. For this type of roses, it is important to protect the crown and stem as best as possible. Snow is often enough for park varieties, in last resort- Light cover.

Alternative wooden boxes- spruce branches, oak leaves. Make a shelter in the form of a hut from these materials. On top of them, you should throw a waterproof dense material or roofing material. Even with a film coating, roses in this case will not rise if you do not forget to ventilate them.

So, we continue measures to protect roses from the upcoming frosts. Today we are talking about the most important thing, perhaps, about how to properly cover roses. Before sheltering, the soil around the rose bushes must be dug up on a shovel bayonet, doing this very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Long shoots and scrubs are bent to the ground, laid on a layer of spruce branches and pinned to the surface of the earth. To avoid mechanical damage in this case, especially in powerful specimens, bushes can be dug up on one side.

Hilling roses for the winter

One of the components winter shelter roses, is their hilling, which allows you to most effectively protect against frost root system. To the base of the bush, you need to pour a mound of dry earth, its height should be at least 30 cm, but do not rake the earth from the flower beds - this can expose the roots at a distance, it is better to add compost, humus or any loose soil prepared in advance. Between rows, use old straw manure, leaf humus, or shredded bark for cover.

Floribunda and hybrid tea roses, pre-cut, as a result of such hilling, are almost completely covered with the substrate. After you have bent down and pinned to the ground climbing and shrub species, spud both the base of the bushes and the shoots themselves. This will keep large quantity kidneys and then next year- in the spring, it will be possible to cut the roses in any way. Even in the absence of snow, the air temperature under the earth shelter remains higher for some time than outside.

Hilling roses is best done in 2 doses. In the first half of October, the ground is only partially poured to the base of the bush to protect it from accidental frosts, and before the onset of real cold weather, the bushes are completely spudded.

Do not use sawdust, sand or pure peat for these purposes - their moisture content can lead to the formation of an ice crust around the bushes during sudden temperature fluctuations. And then, under its pressure, the bark on the stems can crack, which will lead to unpleasant consequences.

In late October - early November, roses should be completely covered. It is best to do this in clear, dry weather.

Shelter of roses with spruce branches

This is perhaps the easiest way to winter shelter, although not the most reliable - it is only suitable for mild winters. Instead of spruce branches, you can also use oak leaves or plant residues that do not overwinter, the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm.

Air dry shelter roses

This method consists in installing frames over rose bushes with their subsequent insulation with the help of a hydrothermal insulation material (cardboard, glassine, paper), which is laid on top and side of the frame, and on top of that they are also covered with polyethylene. The end sides of such a shelter should be closed when the thermometer drops below 10 ° C. This method is very good in cold, snowy winters, since the bushes with its help are protected from the penetration of excess moisture, and due to the air gap, the plant is not threatened with hypothermia. This method has one drawback - it is not suitable for summer residents who do not have the opportunity to regularly visit their site, since in early spring shelters will need to be ventilated.

Shelter of standard roses for the winter

It should be noted right away that you need to think about sheltering the boles of roses even when they are planted. Firstly, you must immediately decide where the tree will bend down ( not on the path and not on the neighboring bush), but in order not to break the trunk, the bend at the base of the plant should be located on the side opposite to the slope.

Planting a standard rose, taking into account further bending down to the ground

Before shelter, it is made taking into account the trunk belonging to one or another garden group. After that, the rose must be dug up from the right side, bent to the ground and spud the root system in the above ways. A spruce branch or a layer of large river sand, on top there is still a layer of spruce branches, which is fixed with a film or any covering nonwoven fabric. For greater reliability, the crown can be pre-pinned to the ground, and a little earth should be poured over the shelter. In no case should the plant be laid below the soil level, otherwise in the spring, during heavy snowmelt, the shoots of roses can get wet in the lowlands flooded with water and rot.

Tilt the trunk towards the "knob" and pin the trunk to the ground

We continue the conversation about preparing the rosary for winter (you can read the beginning in the publication). In our harsh Russian climate, roses spend in shelter (just think!) Almost half a year. The success of wintering will depend on how competently we take care of our favorites. Sometimes it's a pity to send our gorgeous roses into forced confinement, but we have no other choice.

Pre-winter preparation

In a previous publication, I settled on the fact that in the dry season of Indian summer it is necessary to tie and bend to the ground. Pre-cut the unripened tops of scrubs and climbings, English, and musk roses, remove flowering shoots with buds.

Roses in the dry season of Indian summer must be tied and bent to the ground.A photo

Second: when pruning leaves, it is easy to damage the delicate skin of the shoots, where the infection will penetrate. But most importantly, the leaves of roses continue to participate in the process of photosynthesis, giving everything the roots of plants need. This continues even in shelter with meager rays of light that penetrate there (if translucent lutrasil was used). To deprive them of such an opportunity means to weaken the plants.

It has been noticed that those roses that have lost their leaves as a result of black spot disease winter much worse and die more often. Therefore, the main task is to keep the leaves to the last. And in the spring they themselves will disappear, and you can easily collect them.

We save the leaves to the last.A photo

Whether to spud roses

One more controversial issue- whether to fall asleep necks of grafted roses. There is an opinion that this must be done in the fall to prevent them from freezing. In my opinion, it's best to leave things as they are. To rake the earth around means to expose the roots, it is not advisable. It is dangerous to fall asleep, as biochemical processes continue in it. This is an active microbiological environment in which an infectious burn develops. By spring, the stems of roses covered with compost will be ringed. brown spots, the stems will have to be removed and it’s good if the rose does not die at all.

Infectious burn of a rose.A photo

It is even worse to use for these purposes, even if rotted. My neighbors once covered their roses up to half the height with manure so that they would be “warmer”. The result was sad: in the spring the plants turned black, the entire collection was destroyed.

Friendly advice: if you have a lot of roses, do everything in stages. Prepared a dozen plants - cover, then proceed to others. This must be done due to the unpredictability of our weather. We learned this from one incident when we prepared our rose garden for the final shelter, and the next morning it snowed.

Universal spruce branches

In old Russian gardens roses were traditionally covered. This natural material, thanks to numerous needles, creates a kind of airy "fur coat" that keeps the heat coming from the ground. It is important that this fur coat also "breathes", which prevents the processes of decay.

In addition, needles are an excellent aseptic material. Under the spruce branches, covered with snowdrifts, roses feel great both in frost and during thaws.

Under spruce branches, roses feel great.A photo

However, recently it has become increasingly difficult to get hold of spruce branches, as in the old days. In outskirts of Moscow coniferous forests entire hectares are destroyed by the typographer beetle, it has become easy natural disaster. If you're lucky just find fallen tree consider yourself very lucky. And in all other cases, the harvesting of spruce branches should be stopped for ethical reasons. Numerous rose lovers should think about the fate of the forests.

Last year, we were unexpectedly lucky - a neighbor cut down a large "Kremlin" Christmas tree on his site, and we got a luxurious spruce branch, under which our roses comfortably overwintered. But this happens once in a lifetime. In other cases, you need to look alternative options.

Lapnik is an ideal hiding place for roses.A photo

Air dry shelter

Our savvy rose growers came up with the so-called air dry shelter. This is exclusively Russian know-how. A strong frame is constructed around the perimeter of the rose garden, on which boards are laid, covering material is spread over them, for example, roofing material, lutrasil or spunbond.

A strong frame is being built around the perimeter of the rose garden.A photo

Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame. This is done so that the spunbond does not fall into the shelter under the weight of snow. Under such shelter it is warm and dry.

Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame.A photo

However, this method requires a compact planting of roses in a single array. Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.

Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.A photo

Before frost, such a structure must be ventilated by removing excess moisture, for this, the ends are left open. And only when the temperature drops to -5 ... -7 ° C, they are closed. This method has the right to exist, but it is not without drawbacks.

To begin with, the construction of such a large-scale structure will require certain skills and materials. A huge mass of snow in a year of heavy snowfalls can break this shelter, and simply crush the roses under it. Therefore, it must be made reliable and strong.

Roses are there literally in a dungeon, not receiving sunlight. By spring, they become pale and tortured. When the time comes to open them, the plants may suffer from bright spring sun. At one time we practiced this method of hiding in our garden, but in last years considered that the use of modern covering technologies and materials makes the life of a rose grower much easier.

Modern ways

most acceptable and accessible way rose shelters today can be considered the use of modern ones - lutrasil, spunbond, agril, the invention of which greatly facilitated the life of rose lovers. The density of such materials must be at least 60 g/m².

Plants are covered with at least 2 layers with the waxed side up (important!). With such a shelter, roses "breathe", when wet from rains or during thaws, lutrasil dries quickly, it is easy to work with. The edges of the fabric must be securely fastened with bricks or boards so that it is not blown away by the wind. After the snowfalls begin, the roses will be in a safe and warm shelter.

Reliable shelter for roses.A photo

I must say that some gardeners use covering material in a completely wrong way, simply wrapping them around vertically standing bushes. One often sees such "ghosts" in snow-covered gardens. However, such, so to speak, protection will not save the rose from frost. After all, it is known that it is not the blanket that warms us, but we are the blanket. So in this case, the rose is not able to generate heat, it gives the earth. Therefore, we bend our roses to mother earth - a source of heat, covering material shields its losses into the atmosphere, and snow works like a thermos. A rose wrapped in a cloth is left alone with the frost and is not able to survive the harsh winter.

It is noted that "in big company» Roses overwinter better than single roses. This is due to the fact that with a large area of \u200b\u200bshelter under it, more comfortable temperature because the earth is warm. Above large roses at the bending points, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise, this is done so that the snow does not break them.

Above large roses in the places of the fold, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise.A photo

In such places, a dome is formed, from which the snow mass will inevitably slide. In conclusion, we throw more on lutrasil polyethylene film, leaving air at the bottom for ventilation. This film protects the shelter from rains in autumn, from glaciation after winter thaws and, importantly, serves as additional protection against melt water in spring.

Properly wrapped roses will sleep peacefully all winter. Closer to spring, we will definitely talk about how to competently and safely release our captives and what to do with them later.