Wall putty. Do-it-yourself finishing wall putty How to properly putty plastered walls

The choice of putty based on the material of the wall: concrete, brick, wood. Selection of primer for putty. Principles of application of material, sanding. Tips for newbies.

Putty for wallpaper

Before you start wallpapering, you need to prepare the walls.

Putty under the wallpaper is applied only after all the work on plastering the walls is completed.

Drywall is called dry plaster, this base should also be puttied and prepared for pasting.

Do I need to putty the walls under the wallpaper

This should be done for several reasons:

1. Plastered walls have many defects that will be visible when wallpapering. They can especially stand out when striped wallpaper or thin, light colors are glued.
2. After plastering, when drying, the walls may have cracks. They definitely need to be sealed. Because the reasons for the appearance of this deficiency are unknown - they expand from the movement of the soil, if the solution is not made correctly, they can remain unchanged.
3. After puttying, the walls become more protected from external factors.
4. Puttying a plasterboard wall is necessary because masters do not recommend gluing wallpaper on “bare” drywall for many reasons - from the loss of the appearance of the wallpaper to unpleasant surprises when they are removed.

Puttying the surface is carried out in several stages:

1. Determination of the unevenness of the wall and its preparation.
2. Applying the starter mix.
3. Finishing coating and bringing the surface to the ideal.

With proper puttying work, the surface will be ready for wallpapering.

The correctness of the work will prevent peeling of the putty layers and falling off of the wallpaper.

Types of ready-made putty for walls: which is better

A well-putty surface is the result of the final work of the master and an indicator of the materials used.

Ready-made putty mixtures allow you to reduce the time for the master to knead the putty.

The most used types of ready-made putties:

1. Latex acrylic - apply to any surface, including drywall. Its widest application is in surface finishing. An elastic solution allows you to make a putty layer of 1-3 mm.
2. Oil-glue and adhesive - has a high density, so professionals work with it. It is difficult to apply to the surface, but when dried it has a certain strength.
3. Putty with PVA. It has antifungal components, therefore it is applicable in wet rooms.

It is better for a novice master to work with a ready-made solution. It is more plastic, fits well on the plaster and retains its qualities after drying.

Homepage: the best choice

In addition to ready-made mixtures, dry putty solutions are sold on the market.
The starting putty is applied to the prepared plastered walls.

The most commonly used putties are:

• cement mortars;
• gypsum mixes;
• polymer putties.

Cement putty is used in a damp room. It is coarse-grained, with a gray tint.

Gypsum mixtures - used in a dry room, which is heated in winter. It contains quicklime.

Polymer - used in both wet and dry rooms. Has high elasticity.

Manufacturers of starting putty:

1. Starting putty Knauf is designed for indoor use. It has a plaster base. Due to its environmentally friendly composition, the mixture is used in children's rooms. The downside of putty is considered a quick solidification. The maximum layer of the applied solution is 1.5cm.
2. Volma-Standard. Consists of gypsum and mineral compounds. After puttying, you can start gluing. The surface is smooth and durable. The downside is the fast setting.
3. Osnovit-Econsilk is a gypsum base. Designed for dry rooms. Plastic, no shrinkage. The thickness of the applied layer is 1 mm, if more, then cracks appear during drying.

Observing the correct preparation of the solution, wall puttying will have a good result.

Finishing: how to choose according to the rating of the best

After the starting putty has dried and the work is done, the finishing mixture is applied. The most popular are:

1. Prospectors - Finishing. The composition includes gypsum and additives. Used in rooms with high humidity. Non-shrink, plastic, quick-drying. Minus - low surface strength after drying.
2. WEBERLR+. The applied layer is 1-5 mm. the working solution does not harden within 2 days. After drying, a smooth, smooth white surface is obtained. Putty is applied both manually and mechanically.
3. Sheetrock Superfinish - contains vinyl additives, so the putty has high plasticity. 2 mm layer dries after 5 hours. However, all subsequent work of the master is recommended to be carried out a day after application. Has shrinkage.

Which one to choose a good coarse-grained

Coarse-grained putty is needed for the initial processing of the wall after plastering. The most popular are:

• Unis Glare - the composition includes natural materials. Do not use in rooms with high humidity. A reinforcing mesh is used to putty the surface. There is no shrinkage. It has plasticity, after drying there are no cracks;
• Vgt acrylic universal - based on acrylic. Layer thickness 1-7 mm. Has a small shrinkage, good adhesion.

Coarse-grained putties are all types of cement-based mixtures.

Which one is better for deep leveling

Starter putties. With their help, it is possible to eliminate all the errors of plastering work, cracks. It is coarse-grained, applied to the surface up to 20 mm.

Leading Producers:

• Putty Knauf HP (starting) - gypsum putty, applied with a layer of 4 mm to 15 mm. The main direction is leveling the surface before finishing. After mixing, the solution quickly hardens, after 15 minutes the work stops. Does not shrink.
• Ceresit CT 29 starter - work on a concrete, brick, cement-sand wall. It closes up cracks, recesses left after plastering. The maximum applied layer is 20 mm. Not suitable for work in a room with high humidity. After mixing, the solution can be used within 50 minutes. It takes 10-15 hours for complete drying on the surface. High strength.
• Kreisel 662 is universal - it contains cement and lime. Apply a thin layer on the surface covered with plaster, as well as without coating. Has high adhesion. Use the mixture in rooms with high humidity. The maximum layer is 3 mm., there is shrinkage.

When cracks are detected, in addition to putty, reinforcing tape should be used. She won't let the crack get bigger.

What putty to choose for drywall

The plasterboard surface is treated several times. Initially, putty is used for joints along with reinforced tape. The second stage is the coating of the starting putty.

The next step is to cover the surface with a finishing putty. Only after the complete drying of one layer, it is necessary to proceed to the next work.

Under the wallpaper, the plasterboard surface is covered with layers of putty for greater strength of the entire structure.

For a neat appearance, because if thin wallpaper is pasted onto sheets without processing, the color of the wall will appear on the wallpaper.

How to putty wood surfaces before wallpapering

Puttying a wooden surface is different from concrete, brick. There are factors influencing the choice of putty mixture for wood:

• high adhesion - the service life of the putty under the wallpaper depends on this;
• the solution must be elastic;
• drying speed.

Applicable types of mortar for wood surfaces:

1. Gypsum mixture.
2. Latex putty.
3. Acrylic blend.
4. Oil mixture.
5. Putty with PVA.

Basically, craftsmen use gypsum mixtures that do not shrink and have good plasticity.

What putty is better to putty raw concrete

The concrete wall basically does not have large differences in the plane. Therefore, having skipped the plastering, they immediately proceed to puttying with the starting composition.

The base coat consists of several layers. Moreover, the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried. Cement compositions are mixed for coating. They shrink, so the layer should not be thick.

The final layer should be thin. It is difficult to hide the gray color of the starting material under it, however, a thin layer makes the surface smooth, ready for wallpapering.

Universal putties are also used. But, they are applied in a thin layer 2 times. They are plastic and do not shrink. If the walls are even, the differences are 2-5 mm, then the use of mixtures is permissible.

How many layers should be applied to concrete bare walls

On a concrete almost flat surface, apply 1 layer of starting putty. The layer thickness does not exceed 15 mm. For beginners, to level the wall, you need to use a perforated beacon profile. It is fixed on the mixture, adjust the level of evenness. Work begins only after the complete drying of the solution under the profile.

Attention. If there are wooden slats, they are used as beacons. But, the rail should not be high and notched, otherwise there will be a ribbed surface.

What technologies exist

Masters use 4 methods that are suitable for beginners to work:

1. Mechanical method of applying the solution.
2. Semi-mechanical - applying the mixture, and then leveling it with a spatula.
3. Beacon - used for starting puttying.

For the mechanical method, a machine is applicable that sprays the putty with a thin layer. After applying the layer, it is necessary to level the plane with a spatula with a wide spatula.

Semi-mechanical - the machine throws large drops onto the wall, which must be stretched evenly over the entire wall.

Beacon is applicable for starting plaster. Suitable for beginners. The use of beacon profiles will speed up and facilitate the work.

How to putty walls with your own hands for beginners without experience: a step-by-step guide

Beginning masters need to know the nuances and correctness of the work.

The stages of preparing the solution, applying the material to the surface include:

• to prepare the solution, you must carefully read the instructions and know exactly how much water is needed for mixing;
• the starting solution is applied to the surface horizontally and vertically. To avoid bumps, it is not necessary to apply the solution from the floor itself. He picks up trash. Angle - here it is necessary to go with a spatula perpendicular to the corner, horizontally to the floor. So there will be no "washboard";
• for productive work, the solution is prepared in small portions. During development, it will not have time to freeze;
• the finishing layer is applied to the primed surface with a layer of 2 mm;
• when puttying, the tool must be held at an angle of 30 degrees;
• after applying the mortar to the walls, putty the corner with an angled spatula.

Surface preparation

In order for the surface to be perfectly flat, smooth, it is necessary to prepare the surface. This process consists of several steps:

1. Cleaning the walls from dust, extra pebbles, frozen drops of plaster. For cleaning, mechanical means are used - grinders, brushes, spatulas.
2. Surface priming. This must be done for degreasing, and almost all primers contain antiseptic agents that protect the surface from mold.

After processing the wall, proceed to subsequent work.

Choosing the right tool

For proper puttying with your own hands, you need to have a tool:

• construction mixer;
• a set of spatulas - a wide spatula, small, angular;
• brush, roller for priming;
• the rule for creating a flat wall is 2 meters;
• level to control the evenness of the wall;
• sandpaper for rubbing the surface;
• skinner;
• container for the mixture.

All tools and containers must be clean. This will speed up the process and prevent the solution from quickly hardening. Since the frozen particles in the container and on the spatulas accelerate the solidification of the mixture.

How for a beginner to putty uneven surfaces with starting putty

For applying the starting mixture to a dry, clean wall, beginners are recommended to use metal beacons-profiles. They are installed along the wall so that from one profile to another the maximum distance is 1.5 meters.

Lighthouses are put on putty pads. Evenness is displayed by level. The excess solution that has come out is removed. The mixture must dry completely before starting work.

The putty is applied with pads on the wall and stretched over the surface without getting out of the installed beacons. The evenness of the surface is formed by the rule. With its help, the solution is tightened, the excess is removed from the tool. If necessary, apply a second layer of the solution.

The second layer is applied only after the first has dried.

If the putty has shrinkage, then 20 minutes after application, it must be tightened with the rule.

How many times the mixture is applied before it hardens

The starting mixture is applied in a layer of 20 mm.

If you need to level the wall with a large layer, then apply a second layer.

But, this happens in rare cases, because after plastering the unevenness is on average up to 1 cm.

Puttying of bare walls is carried out if the unevenness is 2 cm. The plaster layer is applied once, maybe with an overlap.

How and what is the best way to check the readiness of the surface for the subsequent stages of work

After puttying the wall, the work must be left for a while. It all depends on the composition. Cement mortars shrink: after 20 minutes, the treated wall must be tightened with a rule. After passing 1 hour, you need to run your palm over the surface, it should give “milk”, while the solution has already hardened. This milk is carefully removed with a spatula. They make a wash. The cement mortar hardens for about a day. The check goes with the palm of your hand, the solution should not stick.

Gypsum and polymer mixtures do not shrink. After application, they should not be touched for at least 10 hours. After that, with a dry palm, you need to hold the surface. It should be dry and smooth. If dampness or sticking is felt, then the surface is left for another time.

The manufacturer's packaging indicates the exact drying time of the mixture on the surface. This time must be waited.

Do I need a primer for finishing putty: which one to use

All primers differ in their composition and purpose. Priming mixtures must be applied before finishing puttying for the following reasons:

• the primer increases the adhesion of the applied materials. That is, the topcoat will better lie down on a primed surface;
• if, after the starting mixture has dried, a “cobweb” of microcracks appears on the surface, then the primer clogs them, preventing moisture from penetrating there;
• the primer creates a thin film on the plane, protection against absorption of moisture and components of the finishing layer into the starting one. Thanks to this, the finishing solution lays down evenly. Material consumption is reduced.

The compatibility of the primer with putty is indicated in the table:

How to apply the finish yourself and properly putty

For the correct application of the material on the surface, it is necessary to follow the principle - applying the material from dry to wet. It is necessary to step back from the ceiling by 30-40 cm and apply a layer of mortar. From the ceiling, putty is applied with vertical movements.

Putty is best applied under side light. To do this, use a diode lamp or spotlight. Uncertain movement with a spatula and too thick putty leave a ribbed mark on the surface, visible under the light of a lamp.

Vertical movements with a spatula near corners are unacceptable. The tool touches an adjacent wall - a "washboard" appears. The tool is led from the corner to the opposite wall.

The finishing putty is applied in a layer of 1-3 mm, so the mixture should not be thick.

What to do after finishing putty: grout

After the walls have dried, they are sanded - overwritten.

To work you need:

• paint bar;
• respirator;
• diode lamp;
• diamond mesh or sandpaper.

There are 2 ways to sand walls:

1. Grouting the walls with a diamond mesh or sandpaper (quickly clogged) under the wallpaper.
2. Grout under the lamp with fine-grained “sandpaper”.

In the first method, a bar is used, on which a mesh of fraction 300-400 is used. There are irregularities on the wall, invisible without a lamp. It is necessary to put on a mask and walk in a circular motion along the entire wall. From time to time use a vacuum cleaner to collect dust on the floor.

When doing work, a lot of dust appears, so you will need an old vacuum cleaner, as well as good ventilation.

In the second case, the lamp is installed on the side so that the light goes along the wall. Then you can see all the flaws after the finish layer. A mesh with a fine fraction of 600 and above is put on the bar. Starting from the corner, look at the wall. With all the small recesses, tubercles, stripes, grouting is carried out in a circular motion.

The second method is applicable for surfaces to be painted, for gluing thin wallpapers that repeat the surface structure.

When can I start gluing

After sanding the surface, it is necessary to clean the walls of dust with a brush, dry rags. This is done with a vacuum cleaner at the first speed. After cleaning the wall, it must be covered with a primer. After drying, it will leave a thin film that will protect the absorption of the adhesive into the surface.

When the primer is completely dry, start working with wallpaper.

Having studied all the subtleties of the choice of putty, the surface will be perfectly flat, durable. You should not miss the small nuances from the work, they play an important role in the formation of a solid wall for wallpaper.

Walls with putty and wallpaper have an attractive appearance, a long warranty period.

Useful video

If you decide to putty the walls with your own hands and not resort to the help of a specialist, then in this article you will find a lot of useful information for yourself. Let's figure out how to properly putty walls for wallpaper, for painting. Of course, the matter is not simple and requires skill, but we will try to understand the question “how to putty walls?” I will not teach you how to hold a spatula and somehow especially drive it, you will learn all this yourself in the process of work. If a question is not covered, do not hesitate to ask it in the comments.

What is putty

Putty is a finishing material that is used to level small defects and create a uniform surface structure. It mainly consists of gypsum, acrylic and polymer materials.

Why putty walls

The walls are puttied in order to remove and even out minor surface defects, to improve adhesion. Putty performs very well the function of preparation for finishing. In addition to the leveling qualities, putty is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and well processed or polished.

Putty or putty which is correct?

Especially for those who argue for the correct spelling. In dictionaries, the words putty and putty have the same lexical meanings, so both options are correct. But there is one thing, but ... In most construction literature and official information sources, the option (putty) is used. It is up to you to decide which option is more convenient for consumption, but still, it is more fair to say - putty! But in this article, for certain reasons, I will use two options.

Types of putty for walls

And so, how to make the right choice when buying. First, let's figure out what types it is. We conditionally divide the types of putties into 4 types. For convenience, we will consider them in this form:

• Starting
• Finishing
• facade

To understand what kind of putty you need and in what quantity, you need to build on two factors:

1. What kind of surface is
2. What finish will be at the finish

We will consider all possible options below, but for now let's talk about the types of putty

Starting putty

Designed for rough alignment of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. The starting putty fills small and deep cracks well and does not shrink when dried. The composition mainly includes gypsum and acrylic additives. Well covers plastered surfaces, well suited for preparation for wallpaper or fiberglass (cobweb).

Finishing putty

Designed for the final alignment of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. B consists mainly of polymers, therefore it does not have a large grain size. When filling deep scratches, it shrinks significantly after drying. It is mainly used on the final layers in preparation for painting, decorative fine coatings. Good for fiberglass reinforcement.

Putties for special applications

This type includes all other varieties that will be useful to us in the repair. These are putties for sealing factory and non-factory drywall joints, for reinforcing and filling various joints and cracks. They dry quickly for ease of use, practically do not shrink, and have increased strength.

Facade putty

The scope of their application is clear from the name. The composition contains cement, therefore it has a greenish tint and is often called cement putty. It is applied in damp rooms, loggias, in basements and on facades. It is frost-resistant at drying and has the increased durability.

What putty to choose

So still, which putty to choose? A few words about the composition and frequently asked questions.

Choosing a putty according to the composition

Here I’ll tell you what putties are in composition and which of the above types I can attribute them to. At the same time I will answer frequently asked questions. I think everything will fall into place here.

Gypsum putty

The main composition is gypsum, the rest is plasticizers and all kinds of additives. Gypsum itself has a coarse fraction compared to other types of putties. Therefore, it belongs to the type of starting finishing materials, well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough decorative finishes.

Acrylic putty

Acrylic is such a versatile material that can be used in the production of putties of any kind, both starting dry and finishing in buckets. As well as acrylic putties are widely used in the processing of wood car bodies, etc. Therefore, it is probably not correct to use the concept of "acrylic putty" for a specific application. In this case, it can be both a start and a finish. Very often used in the production of putty on wood.

Latex putty

Think for yourself, latex is rubber. Therefore, putty for wall decoration cannot be rubber, it simply contains a latex component. This putty is very flexible and can be used in wet areas, although it all depends on the manufacturer.

Polymer putty

Basically, these are all finishing putties, except for gypsum. Acrylic and vinyl are also polymers, so acrylic and vinyl putty can also be called polymer putty.

Dry putty for walls

This is the starting material, mainly plaster and acrylic. Again, suitable for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and decor.

What putty to choose for painting

The wall is prepared for painting as follows:

If the plaster on the wall is 2 layers of starting gypsum putty, we prime it, if necessary, we glue the cobweb or reinforcing mesh and 3 layers of finished putty, grind it and you're done. If you are interested in specifics, then I use acryl-putz starting at the beginning and rotband pasta or sheetrock at the finish. It's about quality paint. If high-quality painting is not needed, then you can putty 3 layers of starting putty, grind and paint.

What putty to choose for wallpaper

Under the wallpaper I use a starting putty that comes dry in bags. If we putty plaster, then basically 3 layers of gypsum or acrylic starting putty are enough. I can recommend acryl-putz, miners, typhoon, knauf. (if they are sold in your regions). Pay attention to the price, cheap material is almost always bad. How to putty the walls under the wallpaper, we'll talk a little later.

Putty start-finish

Positioned as a universal putty. Very well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough painting. As a finishing putty on the cobweb, this mixture will not work, I also do not recommend it for finishing for painting ceilings and slopes. Finishing putty should be ready-made in polymer-based buckets, and not dry. There are no universal putties that perform their function well everywhere.

The best finishing putty

For a long time working in the field of decoration, I tried to work with different brands. I have used them in different conditions and on different surfaces. As for the finishing putty, I can safely say that you need to take Knauf rotband pasta, sheetrock, Bostik finspakel (it hardens very much) Often the finishing putty is called “ready putty for walls”

Summing up the choice

A short selection of putty. For those who are too lazy to read the entire article, who just need to know the number of layers and what kind of putty to buy:

Type of training	Work order
under the wallpaper	3 layers of starter
for painting	2 layers of starting, cobweb, 3 layers of finishing
for decorative coating rough	2 layers of starting, mesh reinforcement, 1 layer of starting
for decorative coating finely dispersed	2 layers of starting, reinforcement, 3 layers of finishing
slopes	2 start, web, 3 finish
GKL for painting	finishing of seams with special putties, cobwebs, 3 layers of finishing
GKL under wallpaper	finishing of seams, finishing of seams with finishing putty
loggia	3 layers of facade (if you really need to putty, and it's damp on the balcony)
basement	if the facade putty is very damp 3 layers.
bathroom	although not recommended, I use the usual technology, as in other rooms. But you can paint it with moisture resistant paint.

We will discuss this in more detail in the following chapters.

Calculation and consumption of putty for different surfaces

And so, how to calculate putty for walls ... To begin with, let's figure out what surface we have, if these are plastered walls, then the consumption will increase significantly. Drywall walls will not require a lot of putty, but they will require a special putty for fugen, uniflot joints.

Putty consumption per m2

The average consumption of the starting putty, indicated by the manufacturers, is 1kg-1.2kg per m2 of the wall with a layer thickness of 0.6-3mm. Putty consumption per 1 m2 of wall is a very approximate parameter.

Basically, the consumption depends on the characteristics of the wall (state, porosity), the experience of the “specialist” also plays a significant role

The consumption of finishing putty per m2 of the wall is slightly less, 0.3-0.5 kg with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm. Again, it all depends on the surface being treated. For example, the consumption of putty on the gossamer will be much more than stated and will be approximately 0.5 kg per m2.

You will not be able to calculate the exact amount of putty, so we take the average figures, multiply by the number of layers (thickness mm) and multiply by the quadrature of the walls. For example, if the total area of ​​​​the walls of the room is 40m2 and we need to prepare it for wallpaper, then we take the indicator 1kg and multiply it by the number of layers (3 layers of 0.6mm = 1.8mm) and multiply by 40m2

1kg*1.8mm*40m2= 72kg

One bag of putty usually weighs 25kg, so we need 3 bags of dry starter putty per 40m2 room.

Calculation of putty for sealing plasterboard joints "fugenfüller" and "uniflot"

I recommend sealing factory seams with fugen knauf, and not with factory seams (cut) uniflot. There are usually not so many non-factory seams, therefore we buy the smallest volume of “uniflot” 5 kg. As for the Factory seams, the Fugenfüller consumption is approximately 1 kg per 4m2 of mounted drywall.

How to putty walls (tool)

How to putty walls? The main thing we need from the tool:

• Spatula 10 cm
• Spatula 35 cm or metal grater, trowel.
• Mixer, whisk
• Roller and brush for primer
• Grinding grater, sandpaper
• Masking tape, knife, blades
• Water tank
• Lighting, spotlight
• A vacuum cleaner

Paying attention! All spatulas, trowels, roller handles must be rust-free. So they will serve you much longer and there will be no problems with rusty spots on the walls.

Preparation for putty

Any leveling of walls with putty begins with preparation. Wall preparation is a very important stage, it will depend on how well the subsequent finishing materials will hold. The surface should be well cleaned of debris, old wallpaper, everything that does not hold well and crumbles. All nails and protruding mortar are removed if it is plaster.

Next comes the surface primer, the wall should be well saturated with a deep penetration primer and wait until it dries completely, it is advisable to wait at least four hours, and even better, continue work the next day. The primer should not only absorb and dry, but also polymerize.

How to remove old putty from walls

If you need to remove the old putty, because it does not hold well, then a 10 cm spatula and, for example, a hatchet are enough. If the putty is holding well, you can try to wet it several times with water. It is good to prescribe, and again try to remove it with a spatula.

If the putty is well primed, not removed and not soaked, then there are only two options.

• Knock down with a perforator to the plaster (then you will need to plaster the surface)
• The second option is to make notches with a hatchet, prime with a deep penetration primer, wait until it dries completely, and then cover the entire wall with putsgrunt (sandy soil)

Puttying various surfaces for different finishes

Puttying different surfaces is essentially the same process, the difference is only in the preparation and number of layers. I’ll tell you about the puttying technique itself in another chapter, and in this one we will talk about the preparation and number of layers.

How to putty drywall

We’ll talk in more detail about the puttying technology itself in the chapter “do-it-yourself wall puttying (step-by-step instructions)”. We start with the preparation of drywall. The preparation includes sealing the seams with sickle tape or paper tape. At this stage, we will need a putty for a special application (basically, this application is the sealing of HL joints). To seal the factory joints of HL, we use knauf fugen. For non-factory seams, we use knauf uniflot.

Drywall primer before puttying

We evenly apply the primer on the wall with a roller, be sure to evenly and without smudges, prime all seams and corners with a brush. We are waiting for complete drying!

Puttying drywall joints with fugen and uniflot putties

This is a special putty for drywall developed by Knauf, which practically does not shrink and performs its function very well. We glue the sickle tape on the factory seams, coat the fugen knauf factory seams, and not the uniflot knauf factory seams. If we use paper tape, then first we coat the seams with putty, then we glue the tape and push it deep into the layer with a spatula. Non-factory seams should have expansion gaps, and the cardboard edges should be cut on each side at 45 degrees.

How to knead the fugenfüller is read on the packaging. I draw your attention to the fact that you need to knead only in clean water and only by hand.

Puttying drywall before wallpapering

We are waiting for the complete drying of the sealed seams, we clean the excess and small sagging with a 35 cm spatula. We knead the starting putty and go through all the seams again. We are waiting for complete drying, then we clean all the seams with coarse sandpaper 80P-100P. Then re-priming the entire wall.

Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering? Usually, the sealed seams should be enough for subsequent wallpapering (be sure to putty the seams with a starting putty after the fugen dries). But, if you have very thin wallpaper, then it is advisable to putty the entire wall of GKL with a finished finishing putty in three layers. I recommend using knauf rotband pasta or sheetrock finishing putty. We clean it with an emery abrasive 140-180P, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and re-primer.

Plasterboard plasterboard for painting

Seams are closed in the above way. The seams must be cleaned and the entire wall primed. For high-quality painting, we use a cobweb, glue it on Bostik glue (I wrote about this in an article about gluing cobwebs) Then we putty the cobweb into three layers and clean it with sandpaper 180-240R. Instead of a cobweb, you can glue a paint grid with a 2x2 cell.

If you are not very interested in quality, but savings are required, then you can simply clean the seams and paint with a long-nap roller. It will turn out a little better if you putty another 2 layers with finishing putty, clean it up 180r.

Wall putty for painting

The technology of puttying walls for painting does not differ from others, only the number of layers, the presence of reinforcing material (if high-quality painting), the number of sandpaper when cleaning the putty differ.

If the surface is plastered, then the sequence of work should look like this:

1. Preparation, primer
2. 2-3 layers of starting putty (depending on the quality of the plaster)
3. Rough sanding with 80R sandpaper
4. Dusting, priming
5. Fiberglass (cobweb) is glued, or reinforcing mesh (glued to the finishing putty)
6. Then 2-3 layers of finishing finished putty
7. Grinding with sandpaper 180-240R
8. Dedusting, vacuuming, priming (white primer)

Puttying fiberglass before painting

Many people ask the question, is it possible to putty fiberglass? In fact, these are glass wallpapers and many simply paint them, but I will tell you that this is complete nonsense. Practice shows that puttying a cobweb is not only possible, but necessary!

Here only ready-made putty for walls (finishing) will be used. We putty the first layer “on the strip”, hammer it in, smooth the putty into all the pores of the cobweb in different directions and completely remove it. We putty under good consecration, we make sure that there are no gaps. We try not to drive with a spatula for a very long time, if the cobweb is of poor quality, then it will soak and reach for the spatula. The next two applications of putty are applied with a thin, neat layer.

How to putty the walls under the wallpaper

Puttying the walls for wallpaper is the hundredth easiest preparation, in my opinion. Reinforcement is not required if the wallpaper is thick, even finishing putty is not required. Easily rubbed with coarse sandpaper. The main thing is to observe the minimum technology, which I will describe below.

1. We clean, dedust the wall
2. Separately close up large pits and cracks
3. The first layer is applied
4. After drying, the wall is cleaned with a spatula from excess debris.
5. Apply 2 layers
6. Cleaned with sandpaper 100-120R
7. Dedusted
8. Prime with white primer, wait for complete drying

I recommend buying thick non-woven wallpaper, they are easier to apply and better hide the small nuances of the walls. Finishing putty under the wallpaper is needed if the wallpaper is very thin and any defects will be visible. This also applies to photo wallpapers, it is also desirable to use finishing putty under them.

Puttying concrete walls

Plastering of concrete walls without plaster is acceptable in panel houses with relatively even walls, in other cases plastering of surfaces is required. It is enough to prepare well, remove everything superfluous from the wall, prime. Then, using 3 layers of starting putty, prepare for wallpaper.

Putty on foam (how to putty foam)

I don’t know what situation a person should have in order for him to need to putty penoplex, but often such questions come to our mail. Most likely, a person does not understand what putty is and does not have a clue how penoplex gets off. Or maybe he just needs to finish the facade, or the loggia, and he calls it all foam putty ... I don’t know, but I’ll write a few words about this.

Penoplex cannot be putty with materials for interior decoration, and in this article, we are talking about it. Consider the option of a loggia, for example, we have it insulated with foam plastic, dubbed and we need to prepare the surface for painting.

We cover with glue for insulation all the holes and hats from the dowel-nails. We glue the facade mesh, grind everything with plaster. After complete drying, primer. Now the walls can be puttied with cement facade putty. Personally, I recommend not to putty with cheap facade mixtures, but in this case it is best to use decorative plaster (for example, a 1.5mm stone)

Facade putty should be ground immediately after complete drying. If you wait a couple of days, then the emery abrasive will not take it.

Putty plastered walls

The plastered wall must be well cleaned with a 35 cm spatula, all sagging and everything that is pouring should be removed. Then the entire wall should be well primed and wait for complete drying. If we cook under the wallpaper, then we putty the starting putty into 3 layers. We coat all the cracks well with the first layer, fill in all the irregularities of the plaster, often such a first layer is called “puttying on a peel”. This is followed by 2 layers approximately 1mm thick. After drying, grind and primer (if under the wallpaper). If for painting, then we prepare the wall further, I will describe in more detail in the chapter “putty for painting”

Is it possible to putty on the paint

It is not advisable to putty on the paint. If you need to putty acrylic paint, then you first need to make sure that it holds well, then prime it well and wait for it to dry completely. Now it is permissible to putty on a few layers of finishing putty.

If you need to putty oil paint and there are no other options, then you need to cover it with sandy primer (for example, Caparol Putzgrund 610), after which you can putty the surface in several layers. I repeat, it is not advisable to putty the paint, it is recommended to remove it.

Putty without plaster

If you do not want to level the walls with plaster, but simply putty the walls with your own hands and stick wallpaper, then first check how crooked the walls are. This can be done using a level or a rule. If the curvature is not very large and the quality of wallpapering is of little interest to you, then you can simply putty on 3 layers and grind it with a large 80R sandpaper. We use putty exclusively starting.

How to putty a balcony (loggia)

Such cold rooms are usually finished with facade materials, so facade putty is suitable for us. The composition of the facade putty includes cement, so it has a fairly large fraction. I recommend using high-quality expensive material (for example, Caparol) Cheap - when grinding the emery, it spills out in spots and behaves poorly when applied. If you need to finish the loggia, it is better to use decorative plaster on the walls.

Do-it-yourself wall putty (step by step instructions)

Here we will talk about how to putty the walls with your own hands step by step. We have already talked about the preparation of different surfaces, etc. in the following chapters, we will take a closer look at the putty technology itself and talk again about preparing for wallpaper, painting, and learn how to properly apply putty.

We carry out works in dry rooms with a temperature from +5 to +25. The material is transported at the same temperature.

Step 1: preparing the walls

I already wrote about the preparation of the walls above in the chapter “preparation for putty” here I will repeat a little so as not to confuse everything even more. We clean the walls with a 35 cm spatula (preferably an old one) after such cleaning, the spatula is not very suitable for subsequent puttying. We clean the corners well, often after plastering the corners are slightly rounded. Pay attention to the connection to the ceiling and floor. The plane should be flat and neatly adjacent to adjacent walls and ceilings.

Step 2: priming the walls before puttying

Which primer is best? The soil should be a block of impregnation, I recommend Caparol Tiefgrund, ceresit st17. Although any concentrated primer of deep impregnation is not bad. We dilute the primer according to the instructions, pour it into a bucket or bath and use a brush to impregnate all the corners and adjoining walls. Then, using a roller, apply a primer to all surfaces requiring puttying. The primer of the walls for puttying is done evenly. We are waiting for complete drying from four hours, but preferably a day.

Step 3: how to spread putty

Pour approximately 2 liters of clean water into a bucket and pour 5 kg of dry putty (all figures depend on the manufacturer). Then use a mixer or whisk with a drill, mix everything until smooth. If required, add water or putty to achieve the desired density. If putty is taken on a 10 cm spatula and turned over, then it should not drain. Also, the solution should not be very thick, but well elastic. After the first mixing, wait 3-4 minutes and mix again. After that, the solution is ready for use. The solution should resemble thick sour cream.

If you want to putty with a finished type of putty, then I recommend adding 0.5 liters of clean water to a 10-liter bucket and mix with a mixer. Putty will become more elastic and more convenient to apply

Step 4: putty technology

Finishing and starting putty is applied essentially the same, the difference is only in the thickness of the application.

How to apply putty

If there are large potholes and cracks on the wall, then we putty them in advance and wait until everything dries. Then we apply putty in an even layer on a 35 cm spatula and, starting from the corner, we begin to put putty on the wall. If the wall is plastered, then after application we remove the putty “on the strip” with a spatula so that the first layer penetrates only into all small cracks and irregularities.

Do not forget that we are leveling the walls with putty, so we try to fill in all the holes and small irregularities

After the first layer has dried, we re-clean the wall with a spatula from particles of excess sand putty from plaster and other debris. Then we evenly apply the second layer of putty, but we do not remove it completely, but apply a layer of approximately 0.5 mm, in places of irregularities the layer can reach up to 5 mm.

We putty necessarily with good consecration, preferably under a spotlight or a light bulb.

The third layer can be applied without waiting for the second layer to dry completely. We apply each layer in different directions so that the final movement of the spatula does not coincide with the direction of the next one. The third layer can be applied generally fan-shaped, smoothing out with arcuate movements.

Pay attention to the reverse side of the spatula. Periodically remove dry particles of putty and debris from it.

How to apply finishing putty (liquid putty for walls)

Wash the tool often so that it does not become completely overgrown. To do this, you need to have a bucket of water and dish sponges on hand.

The finished finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting one (described above). We try to apply a layer thinner. Be sure to putty the walls for good side illumination. Finishing putty has the property of strong shrinkage, so it is better not to level a layer of 2-3 mm.

Step 5: how to putty the corners

Puttying the corners of the walls is an important step, you need to make sure that the corners are well filled with putty and dark empty cracks do not shine through.

Inner corner

The inner corner of the adjacent ones is puttied alternately. First, one wall, we wait for complete drying, with a spatula we remove excess putty particles from the corner, then we putty the adjacent wall.

outside corner

In modern repairs, perforated corners have long been used, aluminum ones are used for painting work. They are set according to the level, after drying, the corner should be pulled off with putty on both sides. (I recommend delaying the fugen knauf, it shrinks a little)

Plastering drywall corners

The inner corner of the GKL is glued with a sickle tape or a special paper tape and pulled off with a uniflot or fugen putty. If sickle tape is used, then we carefully push the putty into the drywall seams. If paper tape, then the seams are filled before applying the tape, excess putty is pressed through and removed with a spatula. The outer corner is also exposed to the "fugenfüller" and is pulled from both sides. (in some cases, the corner is pulled twice)

Reinforcement

Reinforcement during puttying usually occurs at the stage when our wall is puttied for 1-3 layers. Reinforcement such as paint mesh and gossamer protects the wall only from small cracks. In addition to the reinforcing effect, the gossamer creates a uniform surface and smoothes out small irregularities.

Gossamer (fiberglass)

In one of the articles, I described the detailed technology for gluing the web, so I will describe it briefly here.

1. 2-3 layers of starting putty, cleaned with 80P sandpaper
2. Priming, waiting for complete drying
3. Glue is applied with a roller (I recommend glue from Bostik, or Oskar)
4. Fiberglass is applied, smoothed with a spatula
5. Reapply a layer of glue with a roller
6. Smooth with a spatula 35 cm, as if putty with glue
7. Subsequent strips of fiberglass are glued end-to-end, or cut with a knife at the junction

paint mesh

Autumn protects walls well from small cracks, great for preparing for painting or for decorative types of finishes.

1. 1-2 layers of starting putty (we are waiting for complete drying
2. We clean the wall with a spatula
3. We impose a grid and smooth on top with finishing putty
4. The excess is cut off with a paint knife.
5. After that, 2 more layers of finishing putty are applied.

How long does putty dry on the walls

Putty dries for about 6 hours, it all depends on the temperature and humidity of the room. It is advisable to wait a day, and then proceed to grinding. It is not recommended to wait several days, some brands of putty harden strongly.

Sanding walls after plastering

So we figured out how to properly putty the walls, now we will answer the question of how to sand the walls after puttying. There is nothing complicated in grinding, there are only a few small nuances, which I will now talk about.
Hand grinding

In manual grinding, a “hand grater” is used - this is a tool for grinding walls after puttying, I advise you to purchase from white plastic. black leaves streaks in the corners when sanded. Sandpaper is better to use not the cheapest. The most important thing and the very first thing to say is to remember to use a respirator!

Sanding the walls after puttying takes place exclusively in circular motions and under the consecration of a spotlight!

If we use a household vacuum cleaner, then there is a chance of damaging the equipment. Therefore, we first remove large debris with a spatula and sweep. Vacuum the rest of the dust.

Grid for putty grouting

Personally, I do not use a mesh, in my region it is not of high quality and scratches the surface. As far as I know, it can be used with special graters that connect to a vacuum cleaner. You need to connect only industrial devices, for example, bosch gas50.

Machine grinding

In my opinion, machine sanding is great for sanding under wallpaper, and requires some skill so as not to rub large holes. Before painting, it is better to grind by hand. Machine sanding reduces labor costs, reduces dust, and speeds up the process. But you will need a grinder (preferably a special one for grinding walls), a vacuum cleaner. All this can be rented if you need to grind large volumes.

Everyone who at least once faced with the issues of repair work is familiar with the puttying process. In this way, walls, wooden parts, and many other surfaces are finished. No fine finish is possible without preliminary puttying of the surface. It is putty that will help make the wall perfect - without roughness, cracks, bumps and other flaws. There are many varieties of this material - in addition to different purposes, there are also different types of putties, according to their appearance and the result obtained. Which one to choose and how to use - let's figure it out together.

Why do you need to putty walls?

Sometimes it happens that, having removed the old wallpaper, it turns out that the walls are not so uneven. Often there is such a gift from builders as a slab on which there are no dents or cracks and it seems that there is simply no need to putty it. Actually this is a delusion! There are two types of puttying work, directly as preparatory work:

In this case, the preparation of the walls is exactly what is needed to align them if they are crooked, especially for corners, arches and similar joints. For such processing, not the most expensive putties are usually used, since there is no need to obtain an ideal appearance - the finished wall will still be covered with wallpaper from above. After the putty is applied and completely dry, such surfaces are usually cleaned with sandpaper to obtain a smooth white surface. Its roughness will even be an additional adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall.

This is a more painstaking and clean type of putty work. Firstly, such a surface must be truly perfect, without scratches, cracks and similar defects. Secondly, even microscopic cracks should be absent, since it is precisely because of them that the destruction of the paint layer may occur in the future. This will completely spoil the quality of the coating and its appearance.

To perform high-quality putty for painting, the multi-layer coating technology will be correct. In this case, various types of putties are used, which are applied sequentially one after another, as well as additional reinforcing agents - reinforcement with fiberglass, non-woven fabric and similar materials specially designed for this.

It is advisable to use the same type of putty for surfaces that are in plain sight - window slopes, ceilings, and so on.

What are putties?

Even with a huge abundance of various putties on store shelves, in fact, there are not many types of this material. According to their purpose, they are divided into two groups:

• Starting

As the name implies, it is necessary for the initial alignment of the walls, subject to their unevenness. They are made from chalk, a gypsum component and a filler of a fairly large fraction - usually crushed perlite or pumice.

Starting putties are used for rough leveling of surfaces of walls, ceilings or slopes and can be applied in a thick layer. Due to its composition, this material hardens quickly, which allows you to treat the surface layer by layer, without waiting for a long drying of the previous layer.

These putties are sold dry, packaged in bags - for use they must be diluted in the right amount of clean water. Usually, breeding recommendations are indicated on the packaging and may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, therefore, you need to approach this process responsibly.

Ready-to-use putties are sold in buckets of various sizes, but still, even the largest of them are not sufficient for finishing large areas. It is advantageous to take such a putty “for a test” - in order to understand whether this type of material of this particular manufacturer is suitable for you, you can buy putty in a bucket, and then, for a complete repair of the entire area, purchase the same dry form.

Starting putties can also, if necessary, be reinforced with mesh or fiber. Such strengthening is especially important in the presence of strong defects near the walls, a weak foundation, or in new buildings, when the shrinkage of the building has not yet been completed.

• Finishing

Designed for surface finishing. Such a putty works on an already dried starting putty. It is always applied in a thin layer - the maximum it can be up to three millimeters. The dried finishing putty forms a dense hard layer without cracks and chips.

Finishing putties are commercially available in two forms: dry and ready-to-use. Dry mix - diluted in water, similarly to the starter, in accordance with the instructions on the package. It is important to thoroughly stir the powder to the desired consistency, so that no lumps remain. For high-quality mixing, it is most convenient to use a special construction mixer, which is driven by a conventional perforator. Ready putty from dry powder cannot be stored for a long time, as it quickly hardens upon contact with open air.

Finishing putties, ready to use, are sold in buckets of various sizes. This is very convenient, in terms of the fact that, if necessary, you can purchase a small amount of the product. Also, ready-made putty is convenient in that it can be used immediately after opening the package, however, it is still desirable to mix it - this may be necessary, since during storage it can delaminate and become heterogeneous.

Types of putties

In addition to separating the material according to its intended purpose - starting and finishing, putties also amaze with their diversity in varieties. Here the type of putty is determined by the feedstock from which it is made. In fact, modern manufacturers have in their arsenal a wide range of initial components for putties. What exactly are they and what is their difference? The main three types of putties used in the construction market can be described as follows:

As the name implies, it is made on the basis of gypsum. This product is distinguished, firstly, by its dazzling whiteness, and secondly, by its plasticity. Also important is the property of gypsum to absorb and release moisture when interacting with the surrounding air. Walls treated with gypsum putty can create a favorable microclimate in the room, thanks to the proper circulation of moisture.

Naturally, this type of putty is only suitable for interior work, since gypsum does not perform well in outdoor work. Ideally, it is suitable for work on - since these materials have a common structure.

It is easier to putty a plasterboard wall than usual, since it does not need to be leveled - just seal the seams and the places where the sheets are attached. Gypsum putty is produced both starting and finishing.

It is also clear that its main ingredient is cement. Accordingly, the properties of cement perfectly coexist in it: moisture resistance, immunity to temperature extremes from frost to summer heat. This putty is convenient to use both indoors and outdoors - as it is resistant to atmospheric phenomena.

For interior decoration, it can be used in conditions of high humidity and steam generation, for example, kitchen, bathroom, swimming pools and the like. The disadvantage of cement-based putty is its rough structure - this is also caused by its main component - cement. It is quite difficult to process and grind after drying. Typically, such putty is used for finishing with tiles, and similar materials that can hide a layer of plaster.

The most modern material is made from chemical raw materials, using modern equipment. It has a dense structure and a plastic consistency - suitable for leveling walls and for finishing. Acrylic putty is easy to apply, easy to sand, not prone to cracking. It is a kind of universal, because, firstly, it is suitable for treating surfaces made of various materials, and secondly, because it can be used as a starting putty and as a finishing putty, depending on the needs.

But, because of its not small cost, it is hardly advisable to apply it in a thick layer. Usually, finishing specialists prefer to apply acrylic putty in a thin layer, no more than one millimeter, thus performing the finishing touch-up of the surface.

With careful and thorough application, acrylic can look perfectly even, beautiful, even glossy. An important advantage of acrylic putty is its environmental safety.

In addition to these widely popular types, polymer putties are also on sale - they are produced on the basis of acrylates or vinyl compounds. Such products are more expensive and are universal.

Polymer mixtures are gaining popularity - at present they are used, perhaps even more often than gypsum and cement-containing ones. They are easy to use and durable in use. By type, polymer putties are divided into three main groups: acrylic, polymer cement and latex - according to the main ingredient in each of them.

1. Acrylic polymer putty- characterized by the presence of acrylic in the composition. It can be starting, finishing or universal - depending on the need and purpose of use.
2. Polymer cement putty- mainly used for leveling cement-concrete, lime and brick substrates. The main component here is cement, to which special polymer additives go. Such a putty has a plastic consistency and can be used both as a starter, for leveling, and as a finish, for final processing.
3. Latex putty- made on the basis of styrene - this is a certain type of acrylic-based latex. This type of polymer putty is ideal as a finish and is well suited for finishing various surfaces: drywall, brick, wood, concrete and others.

Polymer putties are very convenient for their special appearance - they are plastic and elastic, which makes them ideal for work. Even amateurs can create a perfectly even layer using polymer materials.

They are also convenient in that they can be applied with the thinnest layer, which is impossible for gypsum or cement putty. However, the minimum thickness does not make the putty layer less durable than those that are applied thicker. It is also important to note the strength characteristics: polymer putty is not subject to shrinkage and cracking. In addition, they are vapor-permeable, that is, they allow the walls to breathe, and are resistant to moisture and have thermal insulation properties.

Polymer putties are sold, just like other analogues, in dry or ready-to-use form. Dry mixes, as a rule, make sense to choose when it comes to finishing large volumes, and ready-made plastic mixes will help out great if you need to finish a small area.

This type of putty is presented on store shelves in three types: starting, finishing and universal. Choosing the right putty is not difficult. Material consumption is indicated on the labels - just calculate the required area for finishing.

The only drawback of polymer putties is their high cost. Unfortunately, due to the content of polymers, which simply cannot be cheap due to their cost. Of course, many of the positive characteristics of these materials fully justify their price, so when choosing a material for wall decoration, you should pay attention to polymer putties.

Types of putty application

Having decided on the type of material, it is necessary to choose the method of its application. Putty is usually applied by three traditional methods:

During mechanical application, special installations are used, with the help of which the finished mass is sprayed onto the surface of the walls. Such application is convenient, fast and high quality. But, of course, the purchase of special equipment for domestic needs is not advisable. And, as a rule, putty is applied in this way by specialists in the field of finishing work, during industrial-scale work, large volumes, and so on.

The semi-mechanical method also requires a compressor or pressure tank - in this way the putty is “splashed” onto the walls, which is also much faster than applying it manually, although slower than in the first case.

Manual putty application

Well, the most common way is to apply by hand. Since it is he who is used most often, both by professional builders and those who decide to make repairs on their own for the first time, we will consider it in more detail. For application, a ready-made putty mass is used - prepared independently from a dry powder or already purchased in a ready-to-use form.

• using a flat paint trowel and a small spatula

A small amount of putty is collected on the working surface of a flat spatula and a small trowel is applied and distributed over the wall. This method is simple and convenient even for those who have never done such work.

• putty "bloopers"

This name speaks for itself: putty is applied to the wall with a small spatula in the form of “blunders” - large spots, and then, using a long trowel, the mass is evenly distributed over the entire surface. This method allows you to complete the finish quickly, but physically harder than the previous one, since muscles will be needed to level the material with a trowel, from fifty centimeters long.

• using two spatulas: main and auxiliary

The main spatula should be about two to two and a half times longer than the auxiliary spatula. For example, spatulas with a length of 45X20 cm or 35X10 cm are well combined. The longer the main spatula, the more effort is needed to work with it.

In the process of application, with an auxiliary spatula, the putty is distributed over the main one and is already transferred to the wall with it. It is important that when distributing the mass, the pressure on the spatula is the same over the entire surface to be treated - then the material will be distributed evenly. The basic principle of applying putty: from dry to wet. That is, it is necessary to work in such a way that each subsequent finished section is connected to the previous one and they can be immediately compared with each other - then the work will be done neatly, without bumps and sagging.

Applying putty is not a difficult process, however, it requires accuracy and some skill. Starting for the first time, you can practice in places that are not too noticeable, fill your hand. When muscle memory remembers the movements of the hands, the work will go faster and better. Manual puttying is available to anyone, there are no particularly critical nuances in it.

Do-it-yourself wall putty

Many owners tend to carry out repair work on their own: this is not always caused by the desire to save on the wages of specialists. Many people like to make repairs themselves, taking into account their every wish, or simply because they like this activity. As for the puttying process, there is nothing complicated in it, you just need to purchase a high-quality putty mixture and follow the correct work technology - these two facts will allow you to get a smooth, beautiful wall, ready for further finishing.

Training

Before proceeding with the puttying itself, the walls must be properly prepared.

1) Remove the remains of old building materials as much as possible. Traces of varnish, paint, wallpaper - can significantly affect the quality of the finished coating, in the worst case, the remainder of the old varnish may simply fall off after the putty is completed, violating the integrity of the finished layer.

2) Carefully examine the surface for cracks, chips, irregularities. If there are any, then they must first be repaired, flush with the wall, making sure during operation that no bulges appear. After sealing the cracks, it is necessary to wait for the time required for the material to dry completely and only then proceed to the next step.

3) Thorough cleaning of the walls and the room as a whole. There should be no dust, dirt, greasy stains - all of them must be removed, cleaned, degreased. It is advisable to vacuum the walls to remove small particles of dirt and dust as much as possible.

4) Priming surfaces. The primer must be selected based on the material from which the walls are made, and also, depending on their condition, applied in one or several layers. A primer with antifungal additives is preferred - to prevent the occurrence of mold or similar troubles. The primer should be applied with a brush - a brush or a special roller that can transfer liquid well to the wall.

This stage is important, as well-primed walls have a stronger adhesion to the putty mixture and are protected from damage by fungus. Therefore, you need to try to apply the primer as carefully as possible, without missing a single millimeter. After application, leave the primer alone until completely dry, which is at least six to eight hours, at room temperature in the room. But it is best to leave the walls to dry for a day.

Preparation of putty mixture

If you plan to putty a room, or even more than one, then ready-made putty in buckets will probably not work for you - this, although convenient, is obviously not cheap. Just for processing large areas, a dry putty mixture packaged in bags is perfect, from which you can independently prepare a ready-to-use material. This is not difficult to do, but it is important to follow the correct cooking technique:

1) In a clean, preferably plastic, container, pour one third of clean water. Water must be taken cool or even cold, as hot water accelerates the hardening of the finished putty.

2) Dry putty mixture is poured into the water. Quantitatively it is difficult to say exactly, it all depends on the manufacturer and needs. Manufacturers' recommendations and experience will help to resolve this issue.

Firstly, the proportion of water and dry component is always indicated on the packages, which will allow you to get a ready-to-use mass. Secondly, after trying the finished putty prepared according to the instructions, you may need a thicker, or, conversely, a more liquid consistency. Of course, in the process of mixing the mass, a dry product can be added, therefore, initially try not to exceed the amount indicated on the package.

3) For the next step, you will need a construction mixer. Having installed it on the perforator, it is necessary to make the initial mixing of the mixture. Its purpose is to completely moisten the dry powder with water. You need to interfere at low speeds of the tool, in slow circular motions, trying not to scatter the putty around the container.

After the initial mixing, you need to leave the mixture for five to ten minutes, this is necessary so that the water completely soaks the dry putty, and especially the lumps that it contains.

4) Mix again using the same building mixer. This time more intensive mixing is possible. After that, leave the mixture alone again to swell. Thus, it is necessary to make three to four approaches, alternating the processes of mixing and settling the finished mixture. You need to mix for about three minutes, defend - about five. Thus, gradually, the consistency will reach the desired one - medium density and high plasticity.

It is important to prepare not too much putty, as it is not stored ready-made. In this case, it is more convenient to get a smaller amount, and, if necessary, finish more. The thickening mixture is also not suitable for dilution with water and further use - since the formation of lumps in this case is simply inevitable. Therefore, thickened or completely hardened putty must be discarded, the container in which it was washed and prepared again.

Wall putty

Proper adherence to the technology of this process requires the application of putty, at least in two layers - starting, and then finishing. But in fact, there may be more layers - depending on the condition of the walls and their visible defects.

1) To apply putties, you will need two spatulas - wide and narrow. A wide spatula should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the container in which the putty is located - this is necessary so that it can fit there. The second, narrow, spatula is needed in order to distribute the putty along the entire length of the wide one, as well as to correct flaws. It can also be used to dial the product on a wide tool - here everyone develops a technique that is convenient for him.

2) The first layer is the starting putty, it is looser and can be applied in a thicker layer than the finishing one. With its help, you can hide minor wall defects - shells, small cracks. It is convenient to apply putty from the bottom up, using a wide spatula. The spatula is held by the handle with three fingers, and two - the middle and index fingers, are stops and it is convenient to adjust the pressing force on the spatula by holding it from above, by the plastic base.

The finished putty is plastic and easy to apply, it must be homogeneous and not contain lumps or other inclusions. It is necessary to apply the solution as evenly as possible, avoiding irregularities or visually noticeable strokes - a wide spatula helps a lot with this. It is desirable to work quickly, since the putty mixture hardens quite quickly and after some fifteen to twenty minutes it will be problematic to correct application errors.

3) You can continue to work only after the first layer is completely dry. If it is supposed to do a lot of layers, then at this stage it would be best to use a reinforcing mesh.

After the layer of starting putty has dried, the network must be fixed to the wall with temporary fasteners, and then a layer of finishing putty should be applied. It must be applied in such a way as to hide the mesh as much as possible, but at the same time, not too thick a layer - the maximum it should be no more than five millimeters. After this layer is applied, you should also wait for it to dry completely. If the reinforcing network is not completely covered by the first layer of putty, then another one must be applied that will hide it completely. This layer should also dry well.

4) The next stage is the application of the main layer. This is a high quality finishing putty - it is applied very thinly - a couple of millimeters, no more. It must be applied simultaneously, on the entire wall - otherwise, the transitions will be visually noticeable. This layer is not in vain the main one, it should be as even and carefully removed as possible. If, nevertheless, there are minor flaws, then after the work is completed and the putty has dried, they can be cleaned with a fine grinding mesh.

The mesh grain size should be no more than 3 mm cell, otherwise, a thin layer of the finish coating can be damaged and visually noticeable grinding marks can be left. In no case should you use cloth-based sandpaper - after such processing, noticeable traces almost always remain!

The finished surface, finished with putty, dries, depending on the temperature in the room - from 8 to 24 hours. After complete drying, further finishing work is possible.

Rating of the best putties

The modern construction market does not stand still and every year pleases consumers with new products, including putty mixtures. To date, according to the results of customer surveys, certain products are in the lead.

Starting putties

Volma Standard. This starting putty has proven itself both in Russia and abroad. Well suited for leveling surfaces, as well as for fine finishing. Suitable for plaster or cement walls. Worked best when used indoors.

Although this composition is intended for starting application, many experts note that it can also be used to obtain a finished surface, without applying a “finish”, since this putty is easily sanded and leaves no defects behind. This is a high quality material, easy to use and affordable. Among the shortcomings can be called a rather long drying time.

Founding Ecosilk. A product of domestic production, which has firmly established itself in the market of finishing materials. The putty of this brand is convenient for its plasticity, attractive appearance and, of course, a very affordable cost.

It can be applied in a not too thick layer, preferably up to 5 millimeters. Unfortunately, if this condition is not met, then after drying, cracks may appear on the finished surface.

Bolars Facade. Recognized as the best putty for facades, because of its excellent performance: frost resistance, not susceptible to precipitation. It can also be used in rooms with high vaporization. It has high resistance to mechanical damage, good vapor permeability, which allows the walls to "breathe" and creates the correct circulation of moisture in the room.

The maximum allowable layer is up to 10 millimeters, and this is without cracking. Accordingly, this plus entails a minus - a large expense. Also, some unpleasant moment is its high cost.

Finishing putties

Sheetrock SuperFinish rightfully occupies the first place among finishing products. It has the smallest grain size among putties, it is 0.03 millimeters.

This fact allows you to get a smooth, perfect surface with putty, on almost any wall - concrete, and others. Drying, this putty does not crack, again because of its fine structure - it adheres tightly to surfaces and does not peel off. All these advantages are complemented by the quite reasonable cost of the product, which makes it an excellent solution for every buyer.

By the way, until 2016, the putty bucket had a different look. Then the KG Stroy Systems Company transfers the SHEETROCK® line of ready-made putties under the umbrella brand of building materials DANOGIPS.

Knauf Rotband Pasta is a putty based on vinyl compounds. It is universal in terms of treated surfaces, suitable for concrete, gypsum boards and others, has a good adhesive ability.

Another distinctive feature: fast drying - about 5 hours. Some disadvantage is that this ready-to-use putty mixture gives a high consumption, even when applied with a thickness of about one millimeter. Also not happy and its high cost of 700 rubles.

Ceresit CT 225 is a cement-based putty. Suitable for both indoor and outdoor work. Application on cement bases is possible. Putty has excellent qualities: adhesion, moisture resistance and frost resistance.

It is popular due to the presence of special reinforcing fibers in the composition - they prevent cracking and shrinkage of the finished coating. You should also pay attention to the environmentally friendly composition. Of course, such putty is not cheap.

Universal putties

Knauf is fugen. Perfectly proved when using in rooms, in the conditions of room temperatures. As part of the gypsum-based putty, there are also polymer compounds, which made it possible to make the finished composition elastic. Good adhesive properties.

Suitable for cement or plastered walls. The list of advantages is complemented by low cost and minimal consumption. Despite the versatility, use in rooms with high humidity is not recommended, since the composition is hygroscopic.

VGT acrylic, universal. Completely ready for use immediately after opening the package. Suitable for warm interior spaces, without increased vaporization and moisture. It is possible to apply a thick layer - up to seven millimeters. Suitable for wood, concrete, plaster and cement surfaces. Cons: a rather large consumption, the possibility of shrinkage when the composition dries, and a rather large dustiness during subsequent processing.

UNIS BLIK. Gypsum-based putty. It is convenient because it can be applied in different layers - both thin and thick. According to the manufacturer's recommendations, the application layer can vary from half a millimeter to eight millimeters. It is also convenient and quick drying of the mixture - even with a thick layer it will be no more than seven hours.

The putty is easy to use, elastic and does not form cracks. However, there are also disadvantages: high consumption, the presence of foreign inclusions - pebbles may come across that interfere with the uniform distribution of the mass over the wall surface.

Puttying walls is an invariable attribute of any repair work. Even with smooth walls or plasterboard sheathing, it will still be necessary. Modern manufacturers of building materials daily develop and put into production new putties, trying to satisfy the most demanding customers. On the shelves of building hypermarkets there is a putty suitable for any surface, budget and application possibilities. It is only important to decide what exactly you need and make the right choice.

You started to repair and decided to putty the walls. But you don’t know at all where to start, what material to choose, and in general the whole process is shrouded in mystery and darkness. First, let's figure out what putty is, and why it is needed.

The difference between plaster and putty

Starting plaster is a coarse powdered mixture that builders use to level walls. Before plastering, a measurement is made using a level and the degree of deviation of the wall from the ideal vertical is revealed. In other words, this is done so that the wall is even. The maximum thickness of the superimposed layer is about 5 cm. After drying, such a mixture has roughness.

Putty - a powder used after plastering. Hence the name - finishing putty. It is plastic, makes the wall smooth. It can be applied with a maximum layer of 1-2 mm (and more will not work). Finishing putty fills in small irregularities in the plaster, preparing it for painting or wallpaper.

What putty is better for walls

Putty is available both in paper bags in the form of a powder, and in the form of a ready-made mixture in plastic buckets. It is hardly possible to say which one is better, since this can only be understood from experience. The only difference is that the finished putty is already ready, and you cannot adjust its density.

Therefore, for starters, it is better to use a powdered composition, at the same time, learn from your own experience how to dilute the mixture.

Depending on the composition, several types of putty are distinguished: gypsum, cement and polymer.

• Cement putty consists of sand and cement. Such a composition perfectly tolerates moisture, but does not have plasticity. This means that cracks may appear over time. The surface after drying will be rough, so it is necessary to grind. But it is great for outdoor work. She is not afraid of rain and snow.
• Gypsum putty. If you are going to use gypsum putty, be prepared for the fact that it dries very quickly, so do not knead a lot. As it dries, a stone will appear in the bucket instead of putty.
• Polymer putty has high elasticity and stretches well. It can be used for both outdoor and indoor work. With this composition, you can achieve a perfectly smooth surface, but it is not cheap.

When choosing putty, it is important to consider what will be on the walls. Gypsum-based putty consists of many small grains that are visible after the surface has dried. Also, you can see characteristic stains due to certain properties of gypsum. Gypsum putty is beige, gray and even pink. If you try to paint it, for example, white, you will have to apply several layers. Such putty is difficult to stain in lighter colors. But it is ideal for wallpaper.

The adhesive applied to the wall helps to soak the composition. Because of this, the wallpaper may not adhere well to the wall and stick in pieces. Wet wallpaper is problematic to cut from the bottom and top. Gypsum putty is not soaked with moisture as much as polymer putty. And for painting it is better to use polymer putty. As a rule, it is white in color, soft in texture and looks perfectly smooth on the wall.

Is it possible to putty the walls yourself

Puttying the walls with your own hands is possible, but requires some practice. The first knowledge can be obtained by watching a video or watching how experts do it. Of course, at first it will not work out very well. But there is also a consolation point: you can always count on polishing. Therefore, if it does not immediately turn out perfectly smooth, stripes and stains form, these defects will be hidden by sandpaper.

What tools are required

In order not to run around in search of the necessary thing in the midst of work, it is better to prepare everything right away.

• drill with mixer;
• plastic container;
• rubber gloves;
• roller with a long handle;
• narrow spatula (5-7 cm);
• wide spatula (25-35 cm);
• sickle;
• respirator;
• ladder (or table);
• work clothes;
• newspapers, rags, polyethylene.

If plaster is applied to the walls, then it is better to use a brush for priming. Since the roller will not be able to effectively treat the surface. We choose the width of the spatula ourselves. The standard width is 35 cm, but for a beginner it is better to use a narrower one, as they are easier to work with. Drill mixer - a special nozzle for mixing the composition. It happens in different forms, it doesn’t matter much. Ideally, you can use a large bucket of water-based paint as a container. It does not break under the influence of a drill.

Preparing walls for finishing putty

First you need to free the room from the furniture. What you can bear, bear. Dust from this process cannot be avoided. The floor must be covered with polyethylene or newspapers. The more surface you cover, the better.

Why prime the walls

If the room was too dusty, clean the walls with a wet broom. In order for the putty to adhere well to the walls, they must first be primed. Primer is a special liquid. After it dries, a microfilm of adhesive is formed on the walls. The walls are completely degreased, cleaned and devoid of dust, so that the putty will not fall off in the future. Pour the primer into a plastic container and dilute with water. The concentration is marked on the bottle. Next, using a roller with a long handle, we prime the walls. This process is similar to ordinary painting, the main thing is to ensure that the walls are completely primed. This is easy to guess from the wet stains on the wall.

Some moments

Puttying the walls for wallpaper with your own hands is easier than for painting. Wallpaper will hide small defects and shortcomings. But you need to make sure that there are no previous wallpapers left on the wall (if any). Because under the influence of the primer, they will get wet and will stick to the putty.

The easiest way is to putty and primer GKL (plasterboard sheets). There are no special recommendations for this, just drive the roller from top to bottom. Whatever the surface, it is better to prime it separately with a narrow brush near the ceiling, floor and sides, since the roller in these places does not reach the end.

Puttying the walls after plastering is a more laborious process. Therefore, it is necessary to prime very high quality. To do this, it is better to use a brush to fill in all the microcracks and cavities.

What primer to choose

The primer is used to create an adhesive layer on the surface, which contributes to the favorable adhesion of the composition to the wall. When choosing a primer, you need to pay attention to the room. If it is wet, it is better to choose a primer with an antibacterial effect that counteracts the formation of mold.

• Alkyd primer has powerful properties, but does not penetrate into the material. It should not be used for plaster, putty and plasterboard. It is suitable for wood and iron, as it has an anti-corrosion effect. In addition, such a primer creates a film on the treated surface, due to which the material does not breathe.
• Latex primer is suitable for almost any surface. This is ideal in the case of plaster and crumbling surfaces. It is very moisture resistant, water resistant and elastic. But it has such properties due to the addition of synthetic substances to it, so it will not suit connoisseurs of environmentally friendly products.
• Acrylic primer is best for the home. It does not have a strong odor, dries quickly and is easy to use. The thick composition is diluted with water to the desired consistency and applied to the wall. This primer can be used on any surface. And its price will pleasantly surprise you.
• A deep penetration primer is used in cases where the surface is free-flowing, loose and not solid enough. It can be old plaster, wood, or just drywall with crumbling corners. Such a primer penetrates deep into the material, giving it strength and water resistance, which is especially important in wet areas.

Additional preparation of GCR for primer

The joints between drywall sheets contain slots and recesses. To eliminate irregularities in these places, it is better to use plaster. Due to the coarser composition, it will quickly level the surface. But it is not enough just to hold a spatula. At the junction, after the plaster dries, a crack forms, since there is nothing to hold on to the composition in the area of ​​​​the gap. To prevent this from happening, we use a sickle. Serpyanka is a mesh tape on a roll, similar to gauze. It comes in different widths and has a sticky surface on one side, so it can be easily glued to the joints. After gluing the sickle, we apply a layer of plaster from the bottom up. We make sure that it does not move and, if necessary, correct it. Drying time 2-3 hours. After that, we remove small stony particles with sandpaper. The surface is now ready for priming.

Finishing wall putty. Technology

After the primer has dried, the surface is ready for applying the finishing putty. To prepare the composition, we take a plastic bucket and pour a small amount of water there, less than half. To begin with, it is better to make a little composition to fill your hand. Then pour a little putty there, while stirring with a mixer. The consistency should be slightly less liquid than thick sour cream. We achieve uniformity of the composition, the complete absence of lumps, otherwise balls with dry powder will form on the wall. The mixture should not roll off the spatula. If this happens, then it is too watery. It is very difficult to work with such a composition.

We proceed directly to puttying. We have two spatulas in our hands: a large one and a small one. Please note: the spatula does not have absolute evenness. In one direction it is curved more than in the other. It is necessary to define the "rounded" side. If you putty another, stripes will remain on the surface.

Speaking of spatulas, it is worth noting that you need to choose stainless materials. Otherwise, during subsequent puttying, rusty stains will remain on the wall. We collect a little composition on a small spatula and transfer it to a large one, distributing it evenly over the entire surface. Starting from the window, we begin to putty the wall, creating a non-translucent layer of 1-2 mm. If you make the layer too thick, it will be more difficult to smooth out, and cracks may form when it dries. When working with plasterboard, the direction of movement of the spatula does not matter, since the surface is smooth. On a plastered wall, dried large particles have their own direction. Therefore, we simply repeat it when puttying. This will become clear as you work.

Important: the uniformity and smoothness of the putty is very dependent on lighting. Flaws that are not visible in daylight may become visible when illuminated with electric light.

Puttying the walls for painting implies a uniform layer of the composition without gaps. If in some place the layer is thinner, the paint will have a different shade. The difference between putty under the wallpaper is that the wallpaper will hide small errors.

In the process of work, various stripes and stains will appear on the wall. We level the situation as best we can. But do not forget that there is also a saving polishing.

wall sanding

Wall grinding is used to eliminate small bumps, stripes and tubercles. This process can be either manual or mechanized.

For sanding the walls, ordinary sandpaper is used. It differs in particle size. The smaller the skin number, the rougher its surface. For finishing putty, the skin of larger numbers is suitable. If large scratches remain on the wall, then the skin should be taken smaller.

In addition to sandpaper, a diamond mesh is also used. It differs in the size of the cells, and, unlike the skin, it is not clogged with putty. It can be used both manually and using a special holder.

Grinding itself is necessary to eliminate the remaining defects, even a beginner can handle it. This process is very dusty, so be sure to wear a respirator. Grinding is done in a circular motion. If sanded in one direction, noticeable scratches form.

After grinding, the surface must be primed again, as a large amount of white dust will remain on it. Wait for it to dry and proceed with further work. Do-it-yourself wall putty for beginners can seem like a time-consuming and complicated process. In fact, this is not so, you just have to start.

In the kitchen, interior renovation is required more often than in other rooms. Usually it is enough to re-paste the wallpaper with your own hands or paint the walls. In this article - the subtleties of the technology of finishing work in the kitchen. A video to help a beginner will tell you how to properly putty walls for wallpaper or painting.

Wall putty - is it possible to do without it?

Are the walls in the kitchen dilapidated and cracked? Are the wallpapers covered in oil stains? No wonder! The kitchen is a room where you often have to update the interior. In order to carry out repairs correctly, you must follow some rules.

Wall repair includes three stages of preparatory and repair work:

1. Preparation of wall surfaces - at this stage, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of old wallpaper, glue, layers of paint and crumbling plaster.
2. Rough wall finishing - carry out a thorough alignment of the kitchen walls, patching irregularities with plaster, as well as reinforcement (if necessary).
3. Fine wall finishing is the final stage of wall finishing, which includes puttying, painting or.

When performing repair work on our own, the rough preparation of the walls is often not performed or is performed in places. Neglecting the leveling and puttying of the walls will affect the overall quality of the completed repair: the paint lays unevenly on an unprepared surface, burrs are visible on the surface, “bubbles” may form under the wallpaper.

Applying a layer of plaster on the walls reduces the number of cracks, scratches, and reliably smooths out the influx of plaster. And leveling the surface of the walls with putty helps to get the perfect surface, the fine finish of which is absolutely no difficulty.

Wall putty technology: base preparation

The technology of applying putty on walls for painting and wallpapering has significant differences. The process of applying the working composition to the walls has its own techniques and methods. The preparation of putty also has its own characteristics.

For the preparation of putty, it is best to use ready-made dry mixes, which modern manufacturers offer in abundance. Before purchasing a dry mix, you need to carefully read the recipe for preparing the mix and the consumption rates per 1 m2.

Advice! It is very important to strictly follow the recipe for the preparation of putty in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Properly prepared mixture will provide a more even smoothing of the layer and better adhesion to the wall surface.

It is important to remember that the putty layer applied to the wall under the wallpaper should not exceed 2 mm in thickness. Preliminary preparation of the walls should be done very carefully. It is necessary to close up small cracks and scratches, deep potholes must first be cleared and then carefully filled with plaster. Sometimes there are influxes of old plaster on the walls, such places need to be thoroughly cleaned, knocking down the protruding parts.

A special requirement for the removal of old whitewash is that the walls should be completely cleaned. Ideally, wash and then let dry.

Important! Putty applied over old lime does not have strength. Wallpapers that are heavy, especially vinyl and non-woven, will not hold onto poorly finished walls.

Primer application

After removing the old coating from the walls of the kitchen, it is required to treat the surface with a hard metal brush - such an operation will remove the maximum amount of dirt. After cleaning the walls with a brush, you can start applying the primer composition. This is only done if the wall is relatively flat. If there are significant curvature, you should first correct the curvature of the walls with plaster.

It is convenient to use a roller to apply the primer, thus it is easy to achieve uniform distribution of the primer on the wall. The primer composition can be purchased ready-made, on sale you can always find a primer in the required packaging.

Advice! It is difficult to work with a roller in the corners of the room. For a better application of the primer in the corners, use a narrow brush with a long, stiff bristle.

After applying the primer, dry the walls thoroughly. Do not apply putty on wet surfaces. When applying putty on plasterboard walls that have a smooth and even surface, it is enough to apply one layer of putty, which will be the finish. Old, plastered surfaces are smoothed with plaster until absolute smoothness is achieved.

With the methods of work on puttying the surface under the wallpaper can be found in the video for this article.

How to properly putty walls for painting

Special actions for applying putty for the subsequent painting of the walls should be considered multi-layer (one layer cannot be dispensed with). Sometimes, on particularly problematic walls, it may be necessary to glue a layer of masking mesh, which is alternately covered with several layers of plaster mixture, followed by sanding. and then putty is applied.

Attention! It is important to purchase only high-quality tools for work. The spatula must have an absolutely smooth blade without nicks and scratches.

Manufacturers produce a variety of mixtures for puttying walls. The consumption of raw materials in terms of 1 m2 can vary significantly:

• Oil-adhesive putty - consumption 3.0 kg / m2.
• Adhesive compositions - consumption 0.47 kg / m2.
• Gypsum plaster - consumption 0.85 kg / m2.
• Finishing putty - the consumption of the composition is 0.44 kg / m2.

Here are the average consumption rates of materials, subject to the ideal condition of the walls.

From the possible types of putty, choose the one that suits you

As with preparing walls for wallpapering, walls for painting before applying plaster must be carefully prepared: remove old paint or wallpaper, beat off the influx of the plaster composition, and clean deep cracks.

Important! All wooden plugs, nails, screws and other fasteners should be removed from the walls. Holes in the wall must be sealed with cement mortar. The same composition is used to fill the old lines for wiring, deep cracks and potholes.

Cleaning the walls is continued with a metal brush, after which you can start applying the primer. Applying putty is allowed no earlier than 24 hours after the primer layer has dried.

It is convenient to start applying the composition from the right corner of the wall. It is worth monitoring the thickness of the applied layer - it should not exceed 2 mm.

Do not be upset if the first layer of putty turned out to be imperfect, re-applying the composition will correct the situation. It is important not to start applying the second layer of putty until the first layer has set. This will take about 12 hours.

Perfectly even corners are made using a special tool - an angled spatula. It should be ensured that the thickness of the applied layer in the corners does not exceed 5 mm.

Puttying walls for painting: video

Wall puttying: photo