Hilling a rose. Autumn preparation of roses: how to prune, hill, shelter flowers for the winter

How to prepare roses for winter? For most cultivars of roses, temperatures below -7 ° C are considered critical, so we cover roses for the winter. What determines how successfully roses overwinter? Firstly, from the winter hardiness of a particular variety, it can be different within the same garden group. Secondly, on the state of the plant and its readiness for winter. Thirdly, from weather conditions. And, finally, from the ways of shelter. It is clear that not all of these factors are subject to human control. Therefore, flower growers should direct their main efforts to properly prepare for winter and cover the plant in a suitable way.

How to prepare roses for winter

We cannot influence the weather, but we can prepare the roses as much as possible for the upcoming winter trials. There are fairly simple agricultural practices that make rose shoots ripen better.

1. Feeding roses in autumn with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. As you know, nitrogen promotes the formation of a vegetative mass and delays the growth period. Therefore, from the second half of summer, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is excluded. In August and early autumn, roses are fed only with potash-phosphorus fertilizers, which stop growth, promote the maturation of wood and increase plant resistance to cold.

2. Pinching growing shoots in autumn. Another effective technique is pinching growing shoots in early autumn. Due to the removal of the growth point, the growth of the shoot in length stops, and useful material deposited in the kidneys and tissues.

3. Stop watering. Watering and loosening are also reduced to a minimum, and faded flowers are not cut off - for the same reason, so as not to stimulate further growth of shoots.

4. Removal of leaves and unripened shoots. In October, the leaves are gradually cut off, first on the lower, and then on the remaining branches, removing unripened shoots. The plant is deprived of natural respiration and the ability to feed through the leaves and is forced to prepare for winter.

5. Timely control of pests and diseases of roses. The stability of roses, as we have already said, largely depends on their condition at the time of the onset of frost. It is clear that a strong, healthy and hardened plant will better endure both sudden changes in temperature and cold. Rose bushes, which had good healthy foliage (not affected by insects and diseases) in summer and early autumn, accumulate a large supply of carbohydrates, and this contributes to their successful wintering.

6. Moderate pruning of roses. Excessive cutting of flowers with long leafy shoots weakens plants.

7. sunny place landing. Roses growing in the shade overwinter worse, because with a lack of lighting, they accumulate less carbohydrates. A slight decrease in temperature (slightly above 0°C) in mid-autumn, on the contrary, contributes to their accumulation.

Shelter of roses for the winter

Sheltering roses for the winter does not happen overnight. Before shelter, you need to have time to spud roses in two stages. At the same time, you should not rush so that the plants have time to go through all the biological processes of preparing for winter. Depending on the conditions in each particular region, choose suitable materials and methods of shelter, determine optimal timing. at the same time, it also has its own characteristics when sheltering climbing, stem, bush, miniature, hybrid tea and other types and groups of roses.

Materials and methods of sheltering roses for the winter

1. Snow to cover roses for the winter. The main covering material is snow, it is he who most reliably protects roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage - serves only to detain him. At 25-30°C frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below -4-5°C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in the case when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter, and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter without any additional shelter.

2. Spruce branches for sheltering roses for the winter. One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is reliable in relatively mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.

3. Air-dry method of sheltering roses for the winter. More reliable way shelters of roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard. cover plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10°C.

This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from penetration excess moisture, and a layer of air protects plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But only those who visit their site constantly or come to use it can use it. in early spring. With air-dry shelter already in March, roses need to be periodically ventilated.

Terms of shelter of roses for the winter

With further cooling (-2-8°C), the cells in the tissues of the plant are dehydrated, and carbohydrates are converted into sugars and fats - substances that protect plants from frost. That's why you can't cover roses too early - plants must go through all the natural processes, that is, finish growth in a timely manner and go into a dormant state.

But, unfortunately, hardening is a reversible process. Acquired resistance to frost may be lost again if, after a significant drop in temperature, a long warm and humid autumn suddenly sets in. Roses will start to grow and use up the accumulated reserves of carbohydrates, and if frosts hit sharply after that, it will be difficult for plants to survive such drops.

Pruning roses for the winter

Target autumn pruning- prepare the bush for shelter. Shoots of hybrid tea, floribunda, polyanthus, miniature roses cut to half their length. Re-blooming shrub roses, climbing large-flowered growing season can reach a height of 1.5 m or more. At the end of October, they are cut by a third. Climbing small-flowered roses do not prune, only at the beginning of September they pinch the growth point.

If you have not cut off the leaves of the roses beforehand, do it just before the shelter. It is impossible to cover leafy plants, as the process of respiration and evaporation of water will continue. under cover high humidity can cause rotting not only of the leaves, but also of the shoots. Leaves rotted over the winter become disease spreaders.

To prevent fungal diseases, all leaves and cut branches must be removed from the flower beds and burned, and the plants should be treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Unripe, diseased and weak shoots will not tolerate low temperatures and can cause the death of the whole plant. They are removed to the ground.

Pruning roses for the winter in the suburbs (video)

For information on how to properly prune hybrid tea roses for the winter in the Moscow region, and which roses are not pruned, see the video. In October, it's time to prune roses for the winter. Pruning dates are suitable 1.5-2 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. In pruning hybrid tea and ground cover roses have their own characteristics. Pruning of large shoots, plantings of the current year is different.

Hilling roses before shelter for the winter

Hilling - best view root system protection. But, attention, the earth is not raked from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but they are sprinkled (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.

1. When to spud roses for the winter. With hilling roses for the winter, as well as with shelter, you should also not rush. It's best to do it in two steps. From mid-October, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect the plants from unexpected early frosts, and they are finally spudded before the onset of constant cold weather. It is better to cover and spud roses in dry weather.

2. How to spud roses for the winter. It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand. They are very moisture-intensive, and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.

3. How to spud roses for the winter. Before sheltering, they dig up the soil under the roses (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. shoots climbing roses you need to bend to the ground and lay on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground. Then the bushes are spudded - or rather, they pour a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high to the base of the bush. hybrid tea roses and floribunda as a result, they are almost completely covered with earth. At spray roses(after they were bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots. In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage. When the earth freezes slightly (in the middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), the roses cover completely.

Shelter of roses for the winter in the suburbs (video)

For information on how to cover roses for the winter in where there are cold snowless winters with freezing rain, look at the grower and collector rare plants. Roses cover gradually in several stages. First, in October (from about the second decade), a frame is built from boards and beams. Roses are pruned and spud. If the kidneys of the next year are visible, then an oblique cut is made above the kidney, retreating 2 mm. Climbing roses first try to put under cover. Only in the event that the rose does not bend, it is cut off. Open sections are not only a source of infection, but also a gateway to frost and cold, so they are covered with artificial bark.

Until the final shelter, the frame is covered from the top with a flexible sheet of plywood or similar material from the rain. Such a frame with a "roof" is kept until the onset of stable cold weather, when night and day temperatures fall below 5 ° C of frost. During short-term frosts, roses can be temporarily covered with a non-woven fabric, and then opened again when it gets warmer so that the roses harden.

When the cold comes, the roses are covered under the frame. It is convenient to use pieces of non-woven material with a density of at least 60 g/m². Cardboard is laid on top of the non-woven - it protects well from the wind and retains heat inside the shelter. The steps are repeated: 2 layers of non-woven fabric are laid on cardboard, cardboard again on top. The final shelter is a film. The film protects against freezing rains, which are not uncommon in winter in the Moscow region. Such a shelter has proven itself in cold, snowless winters. It is important to open the roses on time and correctly after winter shelter.

Shelter of a standard rose for the winter

You need to take care of shelter even when they land. That is, immediately determine in which direction they can be bent so that the stem does not lie, for example, on the track. In order not to break the trunk, the fold at its base should be on the side opposite to the slope. It is impossible to lay the crown of the bole below the soil level, since water will accumulate in the lowland during thaws or in spring, the shoots will get wet and rot.

Stages of sheltering a standard rose for the winter:

• at the stem, the crown is pre-cut (in accordance with its belonging to the garden group);
• the plant is dug up on one side, bent to the ground and the root is spudded, if necessary, pinned;
• spruce branches are laid under the crown of the stem or bedding is made of coarse-grained sand;
• another layer of spruce branches is laid on top, fixing it with a film or nonwoven fabric;
• for greater reliability, you can lightly sprinkle with earth on top.

Rice. one root system four-year hybrid tea rose His Majesty. adventitious roots: a.- formed above the grafting site on the root collar b.- two tiers of shoots are visible - the result of hilling and backfilling.

Rice. 2 root system annual own-rooted polyanthus rose Orange Triumph.

Rice. 3 root system a four-year-old grafted New Down climbing rose; a- adventitious roots b- roots formed above the grafting site

During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.

In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.

In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when plants are released from the ground, greatly expose root collar, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating jet, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.

Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Particularly affected are own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.

In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.

This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.

Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses, adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.

They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.

At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.

Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (for remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).

Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.

Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).

Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.

In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.

After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, the roses should also be fed, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.

Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.

For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.

Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.

In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.

Most hybrid tea varieties, some floribunda roses and many english roses hibernate without protection if the temperature does not drop below -5°C.

In the middle lane, shelter usually does not serve as a protection against freezing, but rather as a way to maintain the same temperature around the root collar and thus exclude damage from alternating frosts and thaws. In addition, it prevents part of the plant from drying out.

Snow is beautiful insulating material: In areas with stable snow cover, roses require less thorough protection. In northern regions with winter temperatures down to -12 ° C, flower growers use sawdust, compost or garden soil for shelter.

Stages of hilling roses

You need to cover roses after several frosts, but before the ground freezes. In the north, this is usually done in mid-November. Once a constant is established negative temperature air, roses will no longer be able to do without shelter.

1. If the rose has grown too tall, you first need to shorten the stems so that they are not swayed by the wind.
2. Next, you need to check the location of the vaccination site. If planted correctly, the grafting site is underground. Otherwise, you need to add a layer of earth from 2.5 to 5 cm. Even if you have to raise the flower bed, the grafting site should still remain at the correct level.
3. The base of the bush and shoots are spudded to a height of about 30 cm using sawdust, compost or earth. The earth should be taken from another part of the garden: you can not dig near the bushes - this will damage the roots.

It is not recommended to unravel roses too early. Haste will negate all the work, as young shoots will die from frost. But it is also impossible to delay such work, because the shoots that have begun to grow under cover will be in danger of damping out.

With any sharp tool, even if you work carefully, it is easy to injure young shoots. It is better to unwind the roses with your hands or gradually blur the protective slide with a jet warm water. Compost or sawdust should be leveled around the bush. Part of the land taken in autumn for hilling roses from another part of the garden will probably need to be returned to its place. Leaves that will not be embedded in the soil are sent to compost.

Late spring frosts a problem for gardeners middle lane. Taking shelter here ahead of time is equivalent to its complete absence. The first forsythia flowers will be a reliable signal that it is time to remove the cover from the roses and start pruning.

You should not rush to throw away a bush that does not immediately show signs of life in the spring. Some roses, severely damaged in winter, are able to shoot only a few weeks after pruning. Usually roses are pruned in April, but you should wait until the end of May and only then dig out definitely dead bushes. You can find out about the safety of a bush like this: if you pull on it, but it does not give in, it means that it is alive; if a crack is heard, then, unfortunately, it will be required.

So, we continue measures to protect roses from the upcoming frosts. Today we are talking about the most important thing, perhaps, about how to properly cover roses. Before sheltering the ground around rose bushes it is necessary to dig a shovel onto a bayonet, doing this very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Long shoots and scrubs are bent to the ground, laid on a layer of spruce branches and pinned to the surface of the earth. To avoid mechanical damage in this case, especially in powerful specimens, bushes can be dug up on one side.

Hilling roses for the winter

One of the components of the winter shelter of roses is their hilling, which allows you to most effectively protect against frost. root system. To the base of the bush, you need to pour a mound of dry earth, its height should be at least 30 cm, but do not rake the earth from the flower beds - this can expose the roots at a distance, it is better to add compost, humus or any loose soil prepared in advance. Between rows, use old straw manure, leaf humus, or shredded bark for cover.

Floribunda and hybrid tea roses, pre-cut, as a result of such hilling, are almost completely covered with the substrate. After you have bent down and pinned to the ground climbing and shrub species, spud both the base of the bushes and the shoots themselves. This will keep large quantity kidneys and then next year- in the spring, it will be possible to cut the roses in any way. Even in the absence of snow, the air temperature under the earth shelter remains higher for some time than outside.

Hilling roses is best done in 2 doses. In the first half of October, the ground is only partially poured to the base of the bush to protect it from accidental frosts, and before the onset of real cold weather, the bushes are completely spudded.

Do not use sawdust, sand or pure peat for these purposes - their moisture content can lead to the formation of an ice crust around the bushes during sudden temperature fluctuations. And then, under its pressure, the bark on the stems can crack, which will lead to unpleasant consequences.

In late October - early November, roses should be completely covered. It is best to do this in clear, dry weather.

Shelter of roses with spruce branches

This is perhaps the easiest way to winter shelter, although not the most reliable - it is only suitable for mild winters. Instead of spruce branches, you can also use oak leaves or plant residues that do not overwinter, the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm.

Air dry shelter roses

This method consists in installing frames over rose bushes with their subsequent insulation with the help of a hydrothermal insulation material (cardboard, glassine, paper), which is laid on top and side of the frame, and on top of that they are also covered with polyethylene. The end sides of such a shelter should be closed when the thermometer drops below 10 ° C. This method is very good in cold, snowy winters, as the bushes are protected from penetration with it. excess moisture, and because of the air gap, the plant is not threatened with hypothermia. This method has one drawback - it is not suitable for summer residents who do not have the opportunity to regularly visit their site, since shelters will need to be ventilated in early spring.

Shelter of standard roses for the winter

It should be noted right away that you need to think about sheltering the boles of roses even when they are planted. Firstly, you must immediately decide where the tree will bend down ( not on the path and not on the neighboring bush), but in order not to break the trunk, the bend at the base of the plant should be located on the side opposite to the slope.

Planting a standard rose, taking into account further bending down to the ground

Before shelter, it is made taking into account the trunk belonging to one or another garden group. After that, the rose must be dug up from the right side, bent to the ground and spud the root system in the above ways. A spruce branch or a layer of large river sand, on top there is still a layer of spruce branches, which is fixed with a film or any covering non-woven material. For greater reliability, the crown can first be pinned to the ground, and a little earth should be poured over the shelter. In no case should the plant be laid below the soil level, otherwise in the spring, during heavy snowmelt, the shoots of roses can get wet in the lowlands flooded with water and rot.

Tilt the trunk towards the "knob" and pin the trunk to the ground