Black aphid how to deal with. Black aphids on trees - How to fight? Onions and onion peels, how to get rid of aphids with folk remedies

Garden pests can not only damage crops and degrade their quality, but also completely destroy the crop. That is why pest control is a top priority for every gardener.

Most great harm crops are caused by insects. They usually have small size, are characterized by piercing-sucking mouthparts. Such insects often accumulate in large groups. Homoptera include leafhoppers, scale insects, leaf fleas and mealybugs. But the most common pest is aphids. These are, as a rule, small sucking insects that settle on plant leaves or shoots.

There are many types of aphids: black, green, cabbage, carrot, sorrel and others. All of them cause severe, sometimes irreparable damage to the crop. In this article, we will bring to your attention a description of aphids, show you what an aphid looks like in a photo, and also tell you how to get rid of aphids in a garden.

This insect is green in color, about 2 mm long. Causes significant damage to garden crops. The green aphid lays shiny black eggs and hibernates on shoots and twigs. During the period of swelling and blooming of the buds of plants, dark green larvae appear from the eggs. They accumulate on the tops of the kidneys and suck the juice. Then the larvae move to the underside of the leaves and to green shoots.

Recognizing what aphids look like on plants is not so easy: damaged leaves curl up and cover larvae and adult insects. The shoots stop growing, bend, their tops curl, and dry out if severely damaged. Aphid larvae grow rapidly and after 15 days turn into founding females, which create new colonies of wingless aphids. During the warm period, the aphid gives from 10 to 15 generations. At the beginning of summer, winged female settlers appear, which, scattering over the land, lay their eggs on new plants, infecting them. At the end of summer, females appear, laying overwintering eggs.

Insecticides are used to control aphids. They are treated with plants in the spring during bud break and in the summer as garden pests are detected.

What does cabbage aphid look like in the photo, and how to get rid of cabbage aphids

The cabbage aphid is a wingless insect 1.9-2.5 mm long with an ovoid yellow-green body covered with a gray-white wax coating.

Pay attention to the photo of the cabbage aphid: in females, the legs and head are brown, and the abdomen is yellowish-green.

Pest eggs overwinter on weeds of the cruciferous family and on the remains of cabbage that have not been removed from the site. Cabbage aphid larvae appear early, around the end of April - beginning of May. Adult insects and their larvae feed on plant sap. As a result, the leaves become discolored and dry, and the growth and development of the head of cabbage stops.

One method of dealing with aphids is to plant cabbage crops next to tomatoes, since the smell of tomato leaves repels these pests.

To prepare a decoction of 4 kg of tops, pour 10 liters of water, boil over low heat for 30 minutes and strain. Then the broth should be cooled to room temperature, dilute 10 liters of water, add 40 g of rhubarb. You can spray cabbage crops with chamomile infusion at the rate of 1 kg of finely chopped leaves and flowers per 10 liters of hot water. Infuse for 12 hours, then strain and dilute with water, add 40 g laundry soap. You can get rid of aphids by sowing dill next to cabbage crops. The first sowing is carried out simultaneously with the planting of cabbage, repeated sowing is carried out after 10-15 days.

When cabbage aphids appear, it is recommended to carry out foliar top dressing with a mixture of 0.01% superphosphate solution and 0.05% potassium chloride solution at the rate of 6 liters of working solution per 10 m2. Top dressing should be carried out when single colonies of cabbage aphids appear, as well as 8-10 days after the first treatment. Such top dressing helps to increase the resistance of plants to aphids.

Preventive measures against aphids

Thinking about how to get rid of aphids is most effective not after the pest appears in the garden, but before that. As a preventive measure against aphids, you can use an infusion of ash and tobacco at the rate of 200 g per 10 liters of water, filling them for a day hot water. After filtering, 50 g of laundry soap should be added to the solution.

How to deal with black aphids

Black aphids are dark colored insects. Black aphid colonies, as a rule, accumulate on the underside of young leaves and shoots, causing them to curl, and then, if severely affected, dry out.

How to get rid of carrot aphids in the garden

As seen above in the photo, this species of aphid has no wings, usually light green in color with a brown head. Winged individuals have a black chest and head, and a green top part abdomen. Aphids usually overwinter on plant debris and on wild carrots. In the spring, a new generation appears.

Pay attention to the photos of aphids of the second and third generations - they become winged, which allows them to fly to neighboring areas. Carrot aphid is also a carrier of dangerous cultivated plants diseases.

As a preventive measure, areas with perennial crops from planting dill and carrots. You can use infusions and decoctions of various volatile plants, which include white mustard, potatoes, marigolds, garlic, hot capsicum or onion.

There is an opinion that infusions of shag and tobacco help well in the fight against aphids, but this is not so. As a rule, these natural components do not rid the plants of the pest. If there are a lot of aphids, plants should be sprayed with karbofos.

In order to prevent the mass spread of aphids, it is necessary to destroy its natural reservations - thickets of wild carrots.

Plants affected by carrot aphids are washed with solutions of nicotine and anabazine sulfate or with a soap-kerosene emulsion. To prepare it, 40 g of laundry soap is dissolved in 10 liters of water and 10 drops of kerosene are added. Ordinary soapy water can also be used.

If the number of insects is not catastrophic, then you can collect them with your hands and destroy them mechanically. At rest, deciduous crops that have been invaded by carrot aphids during the season must be sprayed with a 3-5% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Garden pest willow-carrot aphid

Willow-carrot aphid mainly damages crops such as parsnips, carrots and dill. The tops of plants and leaves affected by this pest change shape, twisting into small balls.

In the winged aphid, the chest and head are black, and the abdominal part is green, with dark specks on the sides.

Wingless individuals do not have a wax coating, but are also colored green. Their body length is 2.7 mm. The eggs of this aphid species overwinter in the bark and buds of willows. AT spring period the pest feeds on the juices of its shoots and leaves. Winged individuals subsequently fly to dill, parsnips and carrots.

During the growing season of garden plants, willow-carrot aphids give several generations. Winged individuals fly back to the willow in August. Here, females without wings appear, which lay eggs. It is important to spatially fence off dill, carrot and parsnip crops from willow and other shrubs. To combat willow-carrot aphids, infusions and decoctions of plants containing phytoncides are used - such as, for example, white mustard, onion, hot peppers and marigolds.

By the time the panicles bloom, the number of aphids decreases sharply. From late July to mid-August, only small colonies of the pest are found on corn. By the end of August, the number of insects increases again. During this period, aphids move to the cobs. From the beginning of September to November, the migration of insects to winter crops begins. cereal crops and wild cereals, where wintering takes place.

The most dangerous is the damage of aphids of panicles and ears of corn, since this significantly reduces the yield of grain. Damaged leaves turn yellow and deform. Excrement excreted by aphids pollute plants, causing the development of fungal diseases.

To combat aphids, it is necessary to destroy wild-growing cereal grasses, treating them with insecticides in May-July, and performing autumn plowing in a timely manner.

Means of combating sorrel aphids

Aphids are viviparous insects. The sorrel aphid is only 2-2.5 mm in size. In autumn she lays a large number of eggs on weeds from the buckwheat family. Wintering of aphids takes place in the egg stage.

Aphids live on leaves, stems of plants, sucking juices out of them, causing significant damage. Individuals that appear in the spring can damage not only sorrel, but also rhubarb.

To combat aphids, you can use infusions, decoctions from various plant components: garlic extracts, tobacco extracts. In areas with sorrel crops, it is required to regularly destroy weeds on which aphids may lay eggs. It is recommended to spray seed plants with karbofos.

The aphid sucks the juices of the shoots, suppresses the growth points, weakens the plant and carries viral diseases. For most of its species, there is a clear feed specialization. The black aphid prefers to eat on cherries and viburnum.

Environmentally friendly aphid control methods

There is no universal remedy for aphids that helps to destroy it on the site once and for all. Winged individuals have the ability to move, albeit over short distances. But there are many ways to deter its invasion and help scare away for a while.

Folk remedies for aphids are the safest. Use herbal infusions, such as tobacco or celandine. It is useful to plant plants that repel aphids - lavender, savory, nasturtium, garlic. An important part of the work is attracting birds to the site. Good results are obtained by planting plants in the garden that attract insects - the natural enemies of aphids. Ladybugs love the smell of calendula. Umbrella plants are hoverflies. Aphids are destroyed by wasps, lacewing, rider, predatory bugs. Plants that are attractive to aphids should be destroyed. For example, the bedstraw with its intoxicating sweet aroma.

Agrotechnics against aphids

With such dependents as aphids help to fight agrotechnical measures. The insect feeds by sucking the juice from the tender shoots. It is necessary to remove the basal shoots and fattening processes, on which it is often found. Aphids are attracted to both weakened plants and those overfed with nitrogen. Therefore, feeding must be balanced.

Aphids overwinter in the soil. Therefore, digging in October and April with garden pitchforks is useful. At the same time, you can get rid of weeds. For the same purposes, it is important to loosen, mulch and water.

Ants feed on the sweet secretion secreted by aphids. They protect and promote its spread throughout the garden. Therefore, the benefits of the presence of ants are doubtful, and the harm is undeniable. It is necessary to destroy anthills on the site, hang trapping belts on trees, and lime the trunks.

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Radical means of destruction of aphids

One individual produces several hundred larvae in its short life. If the aphid invasion has become epidemic, then folk remedies can't deal with her. In this case, the use of insecticides is justified. To reduce chemical damage to beneficial insects such as bees, treatment should preferably be carried out prior to flowering.

Contact preparations instantly cause massive death of colonies. But, the surviving individuals begin to multiply intensively. Intestinal insecticides poison insects through the digestive organs. Insecticides of systemic action, gradually penetrating into the plant, make its juice poisonous to aphids. These preparations are most suitable for the spread of aphids on trees, when high branches are not available for spraying.

So that the fight against aphids does not become a vicious circle, it is better to entrust this painstaking task to specialists. Doctor Forest provides a full range of gardening services.

People say: "To win, you need to know the enemy in person." And in order to get rid of aphids in the garden or in the garden, you need to know the cycle of its development and be sure not to miss the period that is most sensitive to pests. For example: it is useless to spray plants if eggs are already laid on them. They are protected from the action of poison, do not use processed plants for food (they do not gnaw or suck the juice from plants), which means that they are not afraid of poison. Plant processing was done in vain. It is necessary to wait for the moment of hatching of the larvae, and then by spraying the pest is destroyed by 70-100%. It is the larvae, feeding day and night, that cause the greatest harm to plants.

Aphid(Aphidoidea) is a superfamily of insects. About 4000 species of aphids are known, of which almost a thousand live in Europe. All aphids feed on plant sap, many are dangerous pests cultivated plants. In addition, many species are able to spread plant diseases in the form of viruses and cause various anomalies in plants, such as galls and gall-like formations.

I propose to consider the development cycle of aphids and determine the most vulnerable stages of development for treatments with preparations.

Aphid development cycle

An adult fertilized female aphid lays wintering eggs on branches and bark of trees, perennial shoots of shrubs, trying to place them near the buds, on top shoots. The eggs are oblong-oval, black, up to 0.5 mm long, visible to the naked eye. “Knowing” that it is warm under the snow, the female aphid lays her eggs on the root shoots and weeds. When wintering under snow, almost all clutches survive. The “household” ants also take care of the aphid eggs, taking the eggs to their underground dwellings until spring, and in the spring, with the onset of heat, they carry the eggs to old branches, young shoots, and leave them on young leaves.

Several generations (2-4-8) of wingless females develop from overwintered eggs, the reproduction of which takes place without males. In June-July, winged forms of aphids appear. Aphids scatter, especially with a tailwind, up to 25 km, and spread over the same crops. These are monoecious aphids, and there are also species with a dioecious development cycle. They begin spring development on the main host, with the appearance of winged forms on summer period fly to nurseries (second owner) - various herbaceous plants, weeds, vegetables and return in autumn to lay eggs to the main host. In autumn, after mating, the female aphid lays fertilized overwintering eggs.

Dismal statistics! Each female lays up to 100 eggs for the winter. Of these, 100 females develop, which mature in 1.5-2.0 weeks and lay an average of 100 eggs themselves. During growing season one female is able to increase the offspring to 15-20 thousand pests per season.

Thus, aphids have 3 most vulnerable periods when their destruction will contribute to the overall reduction in the number of these pests in the garden: autumn preparation to wintering, the period of flight of female settlers, the appearance of winged males and return to the owner. This does not mean that the rest of the time you do not need to process trees. Hatching takes place every 2 weeks and processing of trees and shrubs, respectively. 3 selected periods - maximum damage, during this period maximum attention and mandatory treatment of plants is necessary.

Preventive measures against aphids

Autumn preparation of the garden for wintering

• remove all weeds under the crowns of trees, cut out the root shoots, take them out of the garden and destroy or send them to the compost pit,
• space the boles and skeletal branches of trees freshly prepared lime mortar with addition blue vitriol, clay, PVA glue. In the spring, whitewashing at the end of February-March is repeated. In summer, it is better not to whiten the trees, so as not to violate the symbiotic-friendly relationship with the natural enemies of aphids and other pests,
• in winter, in your free time, look at the composition of the plantings and move away from the garden (and the garden too) such flower crops like poppy, nasturtium, cosmea, chamomile, mallow, chrysanthemums, from garden crops - Jerusalem artichoke and sunflower, from tree crops - viburnum and linden. These are favorite breeding grounds for aphids. From currants, gooseberries and other berries, remove plantings of spicy-flavoring crops, salads, chicory,
• during the summer, destroy the anthills and in the fall, before the frosts, dig out wider and fill it with a solution or just water.

Spring work to protect plants from aphids

• As soon as the snow melts, inspect the horticultural crops, be sure to spend sanitary pruning, take out the trash.
• The discovered anthills that have been preserved since autumn must be destroyed. With the appearance of the first ants on the trunks of the trees, repeat the whitewashing and spray the trees with the preparation.
• Install trapping belts by soaking with poisonous powder or solution. Apply special glue to the strain and attach the trap belt. The ants will not be able to overcome the barrier and will die, along with a load of aphid eggs.
• Aphids are terrible for their omnivorousness. More than 4,000 thousand species of aphids and the vast majority harm not one, but several crops. Therefore, even before the start of bud break, it is necessary to carry out the first spraying of all fruit trees with solutions of nicotine sulfate or nitrofen at the dose recommended in explanatory note to the drug. use more modern drugs recommended in your area.
• Since berries form a crop early (raspberries, currants, gooseberries, etc.), before bud break, bathe them in hot water (70-80 degrees) without pesticides.
• In the spring and summer, do not overfeed the plants with nitrogen. The enhanced development of the young vegetative mass will provide aphids with a comfortable life, and elastic leaves and young shoots with dense skin are inaccessible to them.
• During this period, the optimal watering is sprinkling. It will wash away the honeydew that attracts ants, the eggs of aphids, and the aphids themselves, which, once on the ground, die. No need to once again treat trees with pesticides. Stop watering by sprinkling and switch to the ground method only during flowering, so as not to wet the pollen.

Summer work

With the blooming of leaf buds, swelling of the buds and the beginning of flowering, they move on to the systematic processing of trees and berries. In spite of big variety aphids, and in the summer other pests join them, you can reduce the number of treatments if they are carried out with tank mixtures of insecticides.

Active measures against aphids

The use of chemicals

Chemical preparations (insecticides) according to the method of action on aphids and other pests are divided into 3 groups:

• systemic,
• intestinal,
• contact.

If the preparations of all methods of exposure are combined in the tank mixture, then 3 (three) sprays will be enough for the season:

• before flowering in the phase of the beginning of budding,
• after flowering in the phase of the beginning of the growth of ovaries,
• 25-30 days before harvest.

Please note that chemical insecticides will kill not only pests, but also helpers- birds, beneficial insects, and will also have a negative impact on households and animals. Chemicals used to kill pests are removed from plants after 3-5 weeks. The use of fruits earlier than the specified period is strictly prohibited.

Chemical preparations for aphid control

The best known insecticides quick effect destruction are actofit, karbofos, intavir, aktara, spark, tanrek, commander and a number of others. The list of insecticides approved for use is supplemented and changed annually. It can be found in the relevant catalogs and reference books. In the recommendations, along with the characteristics, the norms and methods of application, periods of spraying are given.

It is necessary to work with chemical insecticides in protective clothing, gloves, goggles and a respirator. They should only be used as directed. Increasing the dose, reducing the waiting period until the next treatment will not provide the expected positive effect. Knowing them Negative influence on health, in small gardens and berry fields it is better to use biological preparations.

Biological preparations for aphid control

Biological products have a period of exposure to the pest for 10-15 days, but they are absolutely harmless to people, birds and animals, and they can be sprayed on plants until harvest, which is very convenient for multi-harvest crops. After processing plants with some biological products, the fruits can be used for food already for 2-3 days.

The most familiar bioinsecticides include bitoxibacillin, akarin, spark-BIO and others. They are based on living beneficial microorganisms ( different groups fungi, bacteria). Bioinsecticides are effective not only in protecting plants from aphids, but also other pests. The duration of action of bioinsecticides is 10-20 days and therefore spraying must be repeated. But these biological products are absolutely harmless to adults, children, animals, birds and beneficial insects. Dilution rates and processing times are indicated on the packaging or in practical recommendations.

Bioinsecticides that can be used even during flowering plants include bioinsecticide trichopol(a drug used in official pharmacology as a treatment for a bacterial infection). For spraying, dissolve 20 tablets in 10 liters of water. Compatible with many other biological products, but still requires compatibility testing. Trichopolum can be sprayed not only on trees and shrubs, but also on vegetable crops (tomatoes, cucumbers, dill, etc.). The duration of action is limited by precipitation, but immediately after the rain stops, spraying of plants can be repeated. You can work with the solution without overalls. The drug is remarkable in that it simultaneously destroys pests and fungal diseases cultures.

Biopreparation "Arrow" contains bitoxibacillin in its composition. Suitable for processing all horticultural crops, horticultural and greenhouse. Biological product, except negative impact on aphids and other pests, it is also a top dressing for greenhouse and garden crops. The duration of action of the biological product is 2-3 weeks, after which the treatment must be repeated. To prepare a solution, 50 g of a powdered preparation is dissolved in 10 liters of water, mixed thoroughly. Can be used in tank mixes after compatibility testing.

Human protection during plant processing is limited to goggles and gloves. Spraying can be done during flowering. The aphid dies within 2 days. A biological product is recommended for use from early spring until harvest. The waiting period is 5-6 days, after which the fruits and vegetables can be eaten. In addition to the above listed and described bioinsecticides, new more effective biological products appear every year. In the household, chemical insecticides and other chemicals are not recommended.

In addition to chemical and biological preparations for pest control, we can offer folk ways getting rid of harmful insects.

If you decide to use to control aphids and related pests folk methods, you need to prepare the necessary ingredients from the fall: onion peel along with unnecessary heads, garlic, potato tops, dandelion roots, ash, laundry soap. If there are children in the family, infusions and decoctions of poisonous herbs should not be used. These infusions are poisonous not only for pests of horticultural crops, but also for humans.

• Ash-soap solution. 2-3 cups of ash pour 10 liters warm water, insist 2-3 days, strain, dissolve a piece of finely grated laundry soap in the solution and sprinkle during the budding period of fruit and berry crops.
• Dandelion garlic tincture. Finely chopped dandelion plants (green mass and roots) and garlic heads, respectively 400 and 200 g, soak in 10 liters of warm water. Leave the mixture to infuse for 2-3 hours, strain and use for spraying in the phase of bud break and after flowering.
• Onion peel together with garlic(heads can also be used) finely chop, pour warm water. Leave for 2-3 days. Strain, dilute the resulting solution 3 times and use for spraying, and send the fermented mass to the compost pit.

There are hundreds of such tips on the Internet, but be careful. At home, you can not cook decoctions and infusions of poisonous herbs(hemlock) and spray crops with them. Someone from the family can eat a fruit or vegetable and get poisoned.

Aphids are a gentle pest and cannot tolerate strong repulsive spicy odors. Fennel, garlic, marigolds, mint repel the pest, and petunia, mallow, begonia, nasturtium attract it with their aroma. Plant the first in the aisles along the edge of the beds, and the second - away. A favorite scent will attract aphids. But in autumn, the above-ground mass of these flowering plants must be destroyed, since aphids have their wintering ovipositions on them. By the way, viburnum, bird cherry, linden are very attractive objects for aphids. Use them in distant (from the garden and garden) landscape plantings.

People say that spring is poor without a nightingale, and a garden without a bird is an orphan. Decorate your garden with birdhouses ladybugs(worst enemies of aphids) propagate calendula. For lacewings, hoverflies, wasps, ground beetles and other insects, cumin, parsley, marigolds, navel, dill, coriander are suitable. The less chemicals are used in the garden, the more nests of kinglets, warblers, tits, wagtails will appear, which will gladly help you clean the garden from pests. The choice is yours - to be in friendship with nature and not poison it with pesticides, or to be alone in a clean, but "dead" garden.

Aphids are considered among summer residents one of the most malicious pests.

They settle on leaves, stems and roots, they crawl and fly, and wherever they stop "to stay and feed" - the plants begin to have big problems.

What is dangerous aphid

Leaf aphids quickly weaken young plants by sucking them out cell sap. At the same time, it also secretes poison, due to which the leaves curl, deform and die, the shoots stop growing, the tops are bent. Sweet secretions (natural excretions) pollute the leaf surface, disrupt the normal life of plants.

Through saliva, aphids can infect plants with harmful viruses, which can lead to extensive damage, especially in gardens or professional rose gardens. When the aphid colonies become too large, the leaves and young shoots wither and die.

Aphids cause the greatest harm to young fruit trees.

Aphids can produce up to 50 generations per summer

If you do not use any special techniques against this pest, aphids in a completely natural way, without straining, giving up to 50 generations over the summer, will cause significant damage to any, even the most well-groomed summer cottage. No wonder there are about 450 species in the northern hemisphere alone. leaf aphid are among the most significant agriculture, forestry and horticulture.

The aphids must be fought

It is extremely difficult to fight aphids: it multiplies rapidly and incessantly. Therefore, we must try to get rid of it faster than it will save us from the harvest.

What to consider in the fight against aphids

We repeat, before rushing at the enemy, we need to understand where this problem “legs grow from” in order to correctly, wisely approach the fight against the pest.

1. Where and why do aphids appear?

The aphid feeds on the sap of the plant, piercing its skin with its proboscis. Old hard leaves are too tough for her, she needs the most tender leaves and buds. This means that the likely sites of damage are the youngest parts of plants. Simply put, the tops of shrubs and the underside of the leaves. Therefore, our task is protect young shoots and leaves.

Creative and "kitchen" methods of dealing with aphids

Sometimes the most common product can be the perfect pest control product. And the ingenuity of our summer residents is sometimes simply admirable.

• Vodka Russian ordinary

On a bottle of the cheapest vodka (at the request of a summer resident, vodka can be bought at a higher price), put on a spray bottle - and the product is ready! They say it works flawlessly!

• Coca Cola (American)

As in the previous recipe, put a spray bottle on the Coca-Cola bottle and spray the affected plants. Most likely, the detrimental effect of this liquid on aphids is due to the presence of phosphoric acid in the cola.

• Sprinkling with essential oils and cream

In a glass of cream, dilute 10-15 drops of lavender essential oils, tea tree and cedar. Add this mixture to 2 liters of water. Three sprays (every other day) give excellent results.

• Washing with suspension sunflower oil with water

Pour one glass of sunflower oil into a bucket of water and mix well. Wash areas of plants where aphid colonies have settled, or spray leaves. It is argued that 2-3 times per season is enough.

• Milk and iodine

This is how you can defeat aphids - with the help of milk and iodine. Let's watch the video :)

• Fumigation with tobacco smoke

The method is proposed for, but, as I think, it is quite applicable in open space. To preserve the author's sound and color, I present the recipe in full, without adjustment: " You take an iron jar from under the herring, a large one in which you grow seedlings in the spring (such a jar is even better because of the presence of holes in it at the bottom), from the chips you kindle a small fire in the jar and, as soon as it flares up, you fall asleep with tobacco dust. White smoke immediately starts pouring out. You put this jar in the greenhouse, close all the entrances and exits and wait for several hours until the greenhouse is first filled with thick white smelly smoke, and then dissipates. And everything - aphids as if it had never happened.

Fumigation of trees and bushes with smoke has long been used by our grandfathers and great-grandfathers to save plants from short-term. Today, gardeners are expanding the "smoky" range.

Some suggest using such far ambiguous methods as smoke from burning rubber, windshield wiper and even cleaner gas stoves . Of course for fruit crops such methods are completely unacceptable. Whether to use them on ornamental plants - everyone decides for himself. If you want to experiment, see how the author of the following video fights aphids:

Let's move on to the list of allies)

repeller plants

With their phytoncides (volatile odorous substances), they repel aphids. These are herbs with a pronounced smell - and, onion and, and, and, Dalmatian chamomile and, as well.

Basil repels aphids

The enemy of aphids is a ladybug

To lure hoverflies to the site, it is advised to plant them. Hoverflies do not destroy aphids, they feed on daisy pollen. But the larvae of hoverflies in large quantities absorb aphids that are nearby. Therefore, inviting hoverflies to the dacha, you will not lose.

Ground beetles will choose nightshade and, and lacewing will prefer cool shady places covered with fern thickets for breeding.

You can arrange flower pots with wood shavings in the garden - earwigs, which are also not averse to feasting on aphids, can live in them.

In addition, ladybug and lacewing larvae can be purchased at specialized garden centers (or ordered by mail), and then released on your site.

Birds

What is especially pleasing: aphid is an object of prey for many small birds. They feed it to their chicks. Willingly eat aphids:

• sparrows;
• Chiffchaffs;
• willow warblers;
• tits;
• kinglets;
• wrens;
• robins-robins;
• hemp.

To attract these birds, suburban area you can hang birdhouses (and), arrange containers with water - in a word, make the birds want to fly here.

But! If you have already decided to attract beneficial insects and birds to help, you will have to completely abandon the use of pesticides on the site!

Birds willingly feed on aphids

Aphids settle on plants and begin to suck the juices out of them, forming necrotic patches.

One - a single individual will not cause serious harm, but the problem is that small pests multiply rapidly and form numerous colonies. In this regard, various steps need to be taken.

The larger the aphid population, the more plants perish because of their activities. Some species even classified as a quarantine pest such as grape phylloxera. What do they look like different kinds aphids, you can look at the photos posted in our article.

Other varieties form galls and other pathologies of plant development.

peach

Two subspecies are known - large peach aphids and greenhouse (aka tobacco and green) aphids.

Big

The founder has a rounded brownish-gray body, up to 5 mm long. The head is black with short antennae. There are two tubercles on the abdomen and chest. The male is the same color but smaller. Wings are missing.

The winged virgin is distinguished by a shorter body length - up to 4.5 mm, the color of the head and chest is black, the back and abdomen are gray and brown. The wingless virgin has a gray pear-shaped body, covered, like the head, with black spots. The legs are bright yellow and orange.

Eggs are orange at first, which gradually darkens and turns brown. After a few days, it darkens, the eggs become black.

• Steppe regions and Crimea.
• Prefers fruit and nut trees - cherry plum, peach, almond, apricot, plum.
• Features of development and life cycle. They have a single cycle of development. Large clusters of eggs are sent for wintering, located on inside large branches and under the bark of the trunk. In April, larvae appear and begin to feed actively, going through a development cycle to an adult within a month.

  From the founder, 50-80 larvae appear, from wingless virgins on average - 30. The third and subsequent generations reproduce very intensively. Winged virgins appear in the middle of summer and begin to actively scatter to other trees, forming more and more new colonies.

  If no action is taken, aphid populations will completely cover all the trees in the garden by August, nesting on the inside of leaves and branches. During the season, 8-10 generations of the pest are formed. Males are born in autumn and fertilize females to form overwintering eggs.

• What harm does it do? By sucking the juices from the trees, aphids cannot completely destroy the plant. However, its activity weakens the protective forces of the tree, which leads to the development of various viral diseases.
  In addition, it gives way to sooty fungi that settle on the sweet secretions of aphids. Outwardly, the fungal invasion is manifested by black wet spots.

Green or tobacco peach

The founder has an oval body, greenish - yellow color, sometimes with a pink tint. In length reaches no more than 2.5 mm.

A wingless virgin of smaller sizes, the body is painted in pink, green-yellow or light brown. green color. The eyes are red, the antennae are light and short.. Average length- 1.5 - 2 mm.

The winged virgin differs from the wingless one, the main color of the body is yellow-green, the head and chest are black. The wings are colorless and transparent.

Eggs are elongated, elliptical in shape. The color is black with a metallic sheen.

• Geographic distribution. North America, Asia (especially Japan, China and India), Eastern and Western Europe, Southern Urals.
• On what plants does it occur? A very illegible species that lives on peaches, cherry plums, plums, tobacco, cabbage, cucumbers, eggplants, potatoes, peppers, radishes, dill and parsley, lettuce and many other plants, including greenhouse crops and medicinal herbs.
• Features of development. Development is fully cyclic or incompletely cyclic (during life in greenhouses). Founder larvae emerge from overwintered eggs in March-April. The air temperature must be at least 20°. They begin to feed on the kidneys. Development to a sexually mature individual from 18 to 28 days. The founder gives about 30-60 offspring eggs. The maximum increase in the population is observed in the middle of summer. Up to 12 generations can develop per season. Eggs spend winter on the basis of the kidneys.
• What harm does it do? The most significant damage is observed on young shoots and various vegetable crops as well as tobacco. There is a twisting of the leaves, wrinkling, the appearance of dried areas. Very much harms the flowers, which as a result dry up and fall off.

Potato big

The wingless virgin has an oval body pointed at the back. It is colored red or green. The length is not more than 4 mm. The antennae and tail are long, in body color.

The winged virgin is small, up to 3.5 mm long. The body is light green, the legs and antennae are chestnut.

• Geographic distribution. Almost everywhere. Initially appeared in North America.
• On what plants does it occur? As a polyphage, it is omnivorous, but prefers potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, beets, as well as greenhouse and indoor plants.
• Features of development. incomplete development cycle. Reproduction is only parthenogenetic.

  In spring, wingless individuals appear and settle on the inner side of leaf blades of forage crops. Wintering occurs on weeds and in the soil or in warm rooms.

  During the season there is a constant change of wingless and winged generations. All other forms are missing.

• What harm does it do? This type of aphid can spread about 50 varieties of viral diseases.

apple green

Egg - light greenish, gradually darkens until it becomes black. The founder has an oval body with a sharp posterior end. Colored green, head reddish or chestnut.

The wingless virgin is very similar to the founder. Smaller winged virgin, has a green belly. Paws, tail, chest and head are black.

The amphigonian female has no wings, the body is yellow with a brown or green tint. The tail and ends of the antennae are black. The male differs from the amphigonal female only in smaller sizes.

Read about the fight against aphids with folk remedies.

rose green

All forms and stages of development are not very different from each other. Any individual has an elliptical green body, brown long antennae, sword-shaped elongated tail.

• Geographic distribution. Lives almost everywhere.
• On what plants does it occur? In addition to roses and wild roses, aphids can settle on strawberries, pears and apple trees.
• Features of development. It goes through a full cycle. Overwinters on branches in the egg stage. Founders average about 80 eggs each. In greenhouses and greenhouses, it breeds all year round.
• What harm does it do? The growth of bushes is inhibited, the leaves curl, the buds do not bloom, weakened plants do not tolerate the winter cold and the attack of viruses.

leaf gall

Wingless females have an oval body, dyed yellow or pale green. Antennae long, dark. Winged females are much smaller, have a pair of transparent wings. The body is brownish brown.

• Geographic distribution. Everywhere.
• On what plants does it occur? White, red and black currant.
• Features of development. Full cycle.
• What harm does it do? Sucking the juices from the leaves, it forms galls on them - swellings of burgundy or yellow color. Young bushes are most damaged, the population is capable of destroying the plant.

To protect plants, you can use aphid control.

Beet or bean

Egg - black, elliptical. The founder and the wingless virgin have an oval body, widened on the sides.

It is colored brown, black or green, covered with a coating resembling wax. In winged individuals, the head, antennae and chest are black, the abdomen is lighter.

• Geographic distribution. Europe, North America, middle Asia and Transcaucasia.
• On what plants does it occur? Prefers beets, jasmine, euonymus, beans, poppy, viburnum, spring vetch, sunflower and potatoes.
• Features of development. Alternation of generations throughout the growing season of fodder plants, the last generation mates and lays overwintering eggs.
• What harm does it do? The leaves wrinkle and curl, the plant is inhibited in growth and may die. Carries various viral diseases.

Cucumber (melon)

The elongated body with a sharp posterior tip is painted in different shades green. Antennae and legs are black.

Melon aphid photo.

• Geographic distribution. Everywhere.
• On what plants does it occur? gourds, cucumbers, beets, cotton, tobacco, peanuts, sesame, citrus, eucalyptus.
• Features of development. Parthenogenetic reproduction, development is incompletely cyclic. During the season, several generations of asexual virgins change. Fertility - 40-50 individuals from the female.
• The harm caused. This variety is one of the most harmful. Causes very great damage to plants due to high fecundity.

cabbage

It has a wide oval pale green body, short dark antennae.

Cabbage aphid photo.

• Geographic distribution. In almost all countries, in Russia it is absent in subtropical regions.
• On what plants does it occur? It lives mainly on cruciferous plants, especially likes radish and cabbage.
• Development. In a warm climate, development is incomplete, in other areas - a full cycle. During the season, from 6 to 30 generations appear.
• What harm does it do? Massively multiplying, sticks around the whole plant, which leads to death.

grape phylloxera

The body is oval, the color is yellow or brown. Antennae and proboscis are very short.

• Geographic distribution. Viticulture areas in Europe, North America, Africa and Asia.
• On what plants does it occur? It lives only on all types of grapes. The leaf form does not settle on pubescent varieties.
• Development. Root and leaf forms go through a full cycle. One leaf female is capable of producing up to 500 eggs. During the season, up to 9 generations are replaced.
• What harm does it do? Phylloxera is a quarantine pest. Galls appear on the roots, deformation on the leaves. The population is capable of completely destroying the vineyard.

Carrot

The elongated oval body is pale green in color, the antennae are short and light, as are the legs.

• Geographic distribution. Everywhere.
• On what plants does it occur? On carrots and other umbrella plants.
• Development. Full life cycle.
• What harm does it do? The leaves curl, the nutrition of root crops deteriorates, therefore the quality and quantity of the crop suffer.

Poplar (poplar) white

Individuals have an oval body of white or yellow color. Winged females are only white.

• Geographic distribution. Central Asia, Western Europe, Iran, Western Siberia.
• On what plants does it occur? On black, pyramidal and other types of poplar.
• Development. Full cycle.
• Maliciousness. Drying of buds, twisting of leaves, weakening of trees, especially young ones.

Hermes

The founder has a black shiny torso. Subsequent generations are covered with white fluffy hairs.

• Geographic distribution. Everywhere where there are coniferous trees.
• On what plants does it occur? Any conifers, especially spruce, pine, larch and cedar.
• Development. Incomplete. During the season, 4-5 generations appear.
• Maliciousness. They disrupt the development and fruiting of trees, weakening the protective abilities and reducing the decorative effect.

Mealy (hairy)

The wingless female has a pinkish-cream body, oval shape. Numerous bristles are located on the sides. The whole body is covered with a snow-white coating resembling flour.

A winged female differs from a wingless female only in the presence of wings.

• Geographic location. Everywhere.
• On what plants does it occur? Prefers citrus fruits, grapes, most indoor and greenhouse plants.
• Development. The female can lay up to 2 thousand eggs, from which larvae soon appear. They are mobile and spread over all the surrounding plants, sucking the juice out of them. At home and in greenhouses, development and reproduction is continuous.
• Maliciousness. Deformation of branches and stems, drying and falling of buds and leaves, inhibition of development, weakening of the protective qualities of plants.

Root

The body can be painted yellow, white or green, the shape is egg-shaped. Head, antennae and thorax brown. The whole body is covered with a whitish-yellow coating. wax-like.

• Geographic location. Everywhere.
• On what plants does it occur? Almost everyone.
• Development. Wingless females hibernate in the soil. In the spring, larvae are born from them. They subsequently give birth to offspring. During the season, several generations and stages of development are replaced.
• Maliciousness. Sucking the juices from the adventitious lateral roots, the pests disrupt the normal flow nutrients to the plant.

As a result, it weakens, cannot fully develop. If you do not take action, the fodder plant will die.

Home or room

Includes several subspecies that differ in color. There are white aphids, red aphids, and also green and black aphids.

• Geographic location. Everywhere.
• On what plants does it occur? Almost all indoor flowers.
• Development. Full cycle. Reproduction is parthenogenetic and periodically mating of amphigonal individuals. They do not go to wintering, they develop all year round.
• Maliciousness. Leaves, shoots and buds wither and dry up, fall off. Plants stop developing, gradually die.

Conclusion

Aphids can be classified according to the preferences of forage plants and habitat. In this way, garden aphids, flower, garden and vegetable aphids stand out.

Garden aphids live on fruit trees and berry bushes, causing severe damage to garden plants. This order includes many species of insects that have a variety of colors. Life cycle most often complete, with a change of different generations. The difference lies in the number of generations and the number of offspring.

The flower aphid prefers flowers and ornamental plants living in flower beds, front gardens, in a flower bed.

Garden aphid settles on various garden plants - vegetables and herbs. The only exception is any kind of onion and garlic.. In nature, there is no onion aphid, since the phytoncides contained in plants repel insects. This property is often used in the fight against aphids., applied spraying with onion and garlic infusions. For information on how to deal with aphids, read the material "The best folk remedies for dealing with aphids and".

Plant aphid - the concept includes all types of aphids known at the moment. This insect is classified as a herbivorous pest.

Certainly, it is impossible to describe all varieties of aphids in one article because there are a huge number of them. However, we have tried to collect all the most common types.

Useful video!