Running workshop. Do-it-yourself ski boot repair Equipment for the repair of ski equipment

GAIT analysis
(right choice sneakers)

When paying for the service, you receive a certificate
for 1,000 rubles. to buy sneakers

about 60 minutes

Selection of sneakers using video analysis

A video camera is installed behind the treadmill with adjustable speed and inclination of the belt, which allows shooting at a high frame rate. After a warm-up step, a run is recorded at a comfortable pace. In this way, you can test several pairs of sneakers in order to choose the most suitable model.

Special software allows for a frame-by-frame review of the recording, while the fine details of the biomechanics of running become visible. Of particular value is the ability to measure the angles in the joints (primarily in the ankle) in various phases of the running step. The specialist who selects the running shoes also evaluates the running technique in general.

What are we doing:

• Determining pronation - choosing shoes in accordance with the severity of pronation reduces the risk of injury.
• Determining the correct position of the foot when running - when running with the correct position of the foot, you expend energy most efficiently, so you run faster and longer.
• We correct possible deviations in running technique - correct running biomechanics minimizes the load on the musculoskeletal system and the cardiovascular system.
• We select models of running shoes, taking into account your individual characteristics.

In the midst of the ski season, ski boots let down - from a heavy load, the rivets fell out in the place of the protruding toe, and the sole began to peel off. There was no point in gluing the sole with superglue without additional fastening, and there was no way to put new rivets in the workshop. Then the idea came up to use bolts with washers and a nut instead of rivets.

The article will be useful to those who find themselves in a similar situation. Making such a repair of ski boots with your own hands is not difficult at all.

Repair will require:

3x40mm flat head bolt with nut and two washers

PVC linen cord cutter 200-250 mm long

Pliers

Hacksaw blade or wire cutters

Adhesive for bonding leather and rubber

Repair sequence

Step 1. Let's prepare necessary tools and materials.

Step 2. We remove the remaining parts of the rivets and clean the surfaces to be glued.

Step 3. We stretch a piece of linen cord through the rivet holes and bring its end out of the boot.

Step 4. We insert a bolt with a washer put on it into the hole in the cord.

Step 5. We pull the cord with the bolt through the hole. In the same way, insert the second bolt into the hole.

Step 6. We put washers on the protruding parts of the bolts, tighten the nuts, apply glue to the cleaned surfaces and tighten the nuts.

Step 7. Stepping back from the nut by 3-4 mm, cut off the protruding parts of the bolts. To prevent the nuts from loosening, the bolts must be riveted.

I hope that after the repair the ski boots will last more than one season.

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In detail: do-it-yourself ski boots repair from a real master for a website website.

In the midst of the ski season, ski boots let down - from a heavy load, the rivets fell out in the place of the protruding toe, and the sole began to peel off. There was no point in gluing the sole with superglue without additional fastening, and there was no way to put new rivets in the workshop. Then the idea came up to use bolts with washers and a nut instead of rivets.

The article will be useful to those who find themselves in a similar situation. Making such a repair of ski boots with your own hands is not difficult at all.

3x40mm flat head bolt with nut and two washers

PVC linen cord cutter 200-250 mm long

Hacksaw blade or wire cutters

Adhesive for bonding leather and rubber

Step 1. Prepare the necessary tools and materials.

Step 2. We remove the remaining parts of the rivets and clean the surfaces to be glued.

Step 3. We stretch a piece of linen cord through the rivet holes and bring its end out of the boot.

Step 4. We insert a bolt with a washer put on it into the hole in the cord.

Step 5. We pull the cord with the bolt through the hole. In the same way, insert the second bolt into the hole.

Step 6. We put washers on the protruding parts of the bolts, tighten the nuts, apply glue to the cleaned surfaces and tighten the nuts.

Step 7. Stepping back from the nut by 3-4 mm, cut off the protruding parts of the bolts. To prevent the nuts from loosening, the bolts must be riveted.

I hope that after the repair the ski boots will last more than one season.

For safe skiing, it is important to have reliable, high-quality equipment. Boots are an important part of the equipment, from which not only comfort, but also the health of the athlete is curled. With active skiing, especially in the style of short track, virtuoso turns sport shoes breaks down quickly.

Repairing ski boots is a costly business, and you need to find good master. However, some problems can be solved independently.

This is a common problem among skiers. Often it occurs at the height of the season due to heavy workload. The sole can come off completely or just the toe.

You can repair it yourself with the help of small screws, glue and nuts. Connect the back first. If you have bindings without holes, then make several holes at the junction with the shoes. Insert nuts into them with a cap down. Twist them inside the boot. The nose is repaired in the same way.

You can strengthen the connection with shoe glue. Clean and degrease the soles first. Gluing is an additional procedure to fastening with nuts.

Careless use or a sharp jerk can damage the clasp. Often, it is made in the form of Velcro. In this case, to repair ski boots with your own hands, you will need sewing supplies - strong thread, thick needle and thick fabric.

With a complete break into 2 parts, you need to connect them with a piece of prepared fabric. If the clasp is torn off the ring, then we attach it also, with the help of fabric. If the special ring has been lost, you can use the wire. However, this is a temporary option, as such a clasp will quickly break.

In professional stores, you can find spare parts that will help restore the boot.

This plastic element is extremely important, it is present in all expensive models of ski boots. This allows you to securely fix the leg in the heel area, preventing injury.

But his problem is that he often leans back from the boot itself. To fix it, buy 2 bolts with a small diameter. Drill holes in the fixture. Using bolts, connect the bar to the boot, tighten them from the inside.

When a pin breaks, skiers face three problems:

1. The plastic that holds the pin loosens or wears away and it starts to dangle.
2. Completely detaches from the place of attachment.
3. The pin was bent or dented while riding.

The first 2 difficulties can be solved with epoxy glue, tape and a file. First, using sandpaper (it is better to take a fine one), carefully clean the place that will be glued. Insert the pin in place, secure it with tape, and fill it with glue. Let dry for a day, remove excess glue with a file. To remove the tape will have to try.

It is possible to repair the curvature of the pin if the fastening strength is not greatly affected. To do this, you need to make a mandrel by tapping on both sides with a hammer.

Repair of snowboard boots is carried out in the same way as for ski boots. However, snowboarders may experience problems such as rust on fittings, worn seams, loose lacing. In case of problems with fastening, a replacement part is necessary. Independent attempts to fix it will not return the previous functions, and riding can become dangerous.

Careful operation, timely cleaning and proper storage in the off-season will avoid many problems with ski equipment.

Do-it-yourself lubrication, sharpening, repair of alpine skis is real. In the article, we will share our experience on how to set up the process at home, what tools and materials to use and where to buy them.

Self Care for skiing - lubrication, sharpening, repair - for ordinary skiers it seems to be a difficult task. We are frightened by the many different tools, noisy machines and splashes of sparks that we see in ski service centers.

Reichmann machine - repair and maintenance of alpine skis

However, getting your skis in order with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem when you look at this chilling sight. This requires a little knowledge, as well as a set of tools and materials. And then the necessary skills will appear.

Why lubricate, sharpen and repair skis yourself? And in order not to run to the service center because of every little thing, wasting precious time and money. And the service center can be very far away, especially if you ride off-piste.

Yes, we ourselves can apply the right lubrication according to the weather, repair “holes” in the sliding surface and perform general pre-season maintenance.

Again, who doesn't like to mess with their skis, especially at the beginning of the season! We cherish them and cherish them as the most precious things to our hearts.

Today, the bathyscaphe descends to the depths, where materials and tools for ski care are hidden from our eyes. Do you feel how the cool sea breeze brings a slight smell of hot paraffin? If not, buy drops, you have a clear runny nose. Sneeze and breathe in all the salt of our vast ski ocean!

In any case, take your places! The captain is already impatiently biting the helm.

So, in the article we will talk about the simplest manipulations with skis. More complex repairs - broken bindings, torn edges - are best done in special workshops, which, as a rule, exist at every decent ski and boarder rental.

That's how they go, right? Of course they go, but they can go better, and much more. Everything is relative.

The two most important factors, which help to get more pleasure from skiing, are sharp edges and a perfectly sliding lower surface of the skis (popularly - "slipper", "slipper"). And the drier the sliding surface, the more scratches on it and the duller the edges, the worse for us.

It takes much more effort to turn on running skis than to control well-sharpened and oiled skis. If you don't believe me, don't, but the time will come when you will understand what we have been talking about. Then appreciate the amazing feeling of sliding and tenacity that are inherent in well-groomed skis!

There are two options for ski care: you either take them regularly to a service shop and pay for maintenance ( Maintenance), or spend a certain amount of money on ointments and tools at a time, and then save your hard-earned money and put your skis in order yourself.

The first option is simple and dull. The second one is informative and makes life more interesting, which will be discussed below.

Well, here we come to the most important thing - the stages of maintaining our skis, which consists of 5 steps:

• Preparation and cleaning.
• Sliding surface repair.
• Edge sharpening.
• Cleaning and lubricating the sliding surface.
• Polishing of the sliding surface.

If the skis have not been put in order for a long time or have been intensively used, it may be necessary to grind the sliding surface on the machine (for this, you will still need to go to the workshop). And then start working on them yourself. Find a table at home, an office one will do, because signing contracts is no more important than skiing in the mountains, right?

To fix skis on a household table, you will need the following fasteners:

Mounting skis on a household table

For example, a set of Toko brand vices in the Kant store costs about 17,000 rubles.

Ideally, you need a special workbench with a vise, but you will get it later, when you realize the joy of personal ski care. Now lift your ski feet, fix them with an elastic band (as in the picture above) and wipe the skis so that they are clean and dry.

Wipe a heavily soiled surface with a special cloth, such as fiberlen - it does not leave a lint that interferes with the work.

Lint-free special Fiberlene fabric

The easiest way to fix scratches on the base is to use P-Tex plastic candles. If you do this regularly, and there are several pairs of skis in the family, it is better to purchase a special thermal gun (although it is not easy to find one in Russia).

Thermal gun for repairing skis and snowboards

If from case to case, burying deep scratches with molten plastic will do.

Here is the sequence of work:

• Clean the work area with a wash;
• Cut off the peeled plastic around the “wound” with a sharp knife;
• Drop it with a melted P-Tex candle;
• Let cool to room temperature;
• Carefully cut off excess plastic until a surface with the same level is obtained;
• Sand the repaired area with fine sanding paper.

Important: any repair of the sliding surface can only be started after the skis / snowboard are well dried.

Always use protective gloves when sharpening edges to avoid cuts. Even if you see a bare hand in the picture below, it's just a promotional photo.

Ski edge sharpening

Clamp the skis in a vise as shown. Using a special file (file) and a guide corner with a clip or a special “cantor cutter”, sharpen the edges with smooth movements along the entire length of the ski.

Use short, overlapping file passes, gradually lengthening them. Clean the file of chips with a wire brush after every few strokes.

Repeat these steps on both edges. The direction of sharpening does not matter. Don't press too hard, let the sharp file do the job.

For greater clarity, I found an informative video on the Internet on sharpening edges at home. For those who are interested, take a look.

Rotate the ski in the vise so that the sliding surface is facing up. Scrape off the old paraffin and dirt with a plastic scraper. For best results, use a “hot scraping”: heat up the paraffin wax with an iron and scrape the skis of the plastic cycle (in last resort you can use a CD box) while the wax is still warm.

If the paraffin is heavily soiled, use an iron to apply a layer of "base" paraffin, and then scrape it off - this way you can better clean the base.

Scrape the old paraffin off your skis

You can lubricate the skis with an iron or use a ready-made lubricant that is applied to cold skis. Either way prevents the sliding surface from drying out, reduces friction, and helps the projectiles glide better.

Lubricated skis are easier to control. Hot wax and iron provide better lubrication because the wax penetrates deeper into the pores of the base material and lasts longer.

Applying paraffin to a sliding surface with an iron

You can also use ready-made grease - it is easy to use, but it does not protect the slipper for so long and provides good glide. This option is ideal for quick lubrication in field conditions when it is not possible to use the hot method.

Both lubrication options - both “for ironing” and “for cold” - are available in two types: for any snow temperature (universal ointment) and for specific temperature conditions(special lubricants).

Universal options will work effectively in most cases, but for a narrow temperature range it is better to use special lubricants and paraffins, they are more effective than universal ones. The result - the skis will glide faster, we spend less energy.

The more often the skis are hot treated, the better the sliding surface will absorb the lubricant. So, ideally, you need to turn on the iron after each ride. It is no coincidence that athletes lubricate their skis before each training session, not to mention competitions.

Well, it’s better for non-athletes to use hot way before a trip to the mountains, and after each ride, lubricate with a universal lubricant designed for cold application.

After you have finished processing your skis, let them cool to room temperature.

Using a sharp plastic scraper, remove any excess wax. What remains in the pores of the material is quite enough for excellent ski glide.

Then, using a horsehair or nylon brush, buff the base well with strong pressure movements from the toe to the heel of the ski.

Repair candles for Toko skis

So, now we know how to take care of our skis (and boards) - how to sharpen the edges, repair and lubricate the base. At the end, here is a list of what you will need to work from home:

• Repair plastic P-Tex.
• Fibertex and remover for old grease.
• A special file and a corner with a clip or a cantorez.
• Plastic cycle (scraper).
• Stiff horsehair or nylon brush.
• sanding paper.
• Universal paraffin.

Manufacturers of materials and tools for ski maintenance:

All manufacturers are worthy, besides, the sites of all three have been translated into Russian. By clicking on the links, you will find a lot useful information: what other tools are there, where you can buy them, how much they cost.

By the way, you will probably find an old iron with a temperature regulator, a lighter and a knife on the farm, and buy a brush for cleaning a file and work gloves where it is convenient.

Once again I enjoyed the fact that I wrote this work. I hope that it will be useful to you. Leave comments, requests and complaints, I will be happy to answer any question. Thanks to my friends who filled in the gaps in my experience and knowledge.

Let's float... no, one second...

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• They allow the use of external boots large volume for different leg shapes.
• They allow you to simplify the selection and fitting of boots.
• They allow you to sell the consumer some illusion of the possibility of self-fitting.

• They allow you to take boots of the usual (with a “plus” allowance) size and more or less correctly put them on your feet.
• They allow you to solve the problem of fixing specifically narrow feet and lower legs.
• They allow freeride freestyle riders to safely land spin jumps while minimizing the risk of ankle injuries.
• In part, they allow you to solve the problem of freezing feet.

• The leg is "suspended" in the foam core.
• The accuracy of force transfer to the skis is reduced.
• The desired improvement in thermal insulation and cushioning for owners of voluminous legs is not always achievable.

SPORT-MARATHON: THE LARGEST TOURIST AND SKI STORE IN MOSCOW. SAIKINA 4

You might think that Sport-Marathon is just another sports and tourist store in Moscow, and you will be wrong. We do sell clothes and equipment for skiing and snowboarding, as well as tents, sleeping bags, backpacks and other goods for outdoor activities. But that's where our similarities to other stores end. We are different!

Working on the top equipment market for more than ten years, our company managers have accumulated a huge amount of knowledge in order to try to make the best ski and outdoor store in Moscow! And believe me, these are not empty words. Personal passion for tourism and skiing, hundreds of hours at exhibitions and seminars and many years of cooperation with the best distribution companies allow us to present a truly outstanding range.

In addition to the excellent assortment, we have tried to make our store not only a pleasant and convenient place for shopping, but a real Club and a favorite meeting place for all lovers of tourism, skiing and outdoor activities in general. Therefore, we made a new renovation, ordered a special, individual shop equipment, tormented for a long time, choosing a convenient and pleasant light, and even developed the best, as we think, loyalty system for the most active buyers. We even found a place for a cafeteria where you can have a bite to eat during the tedious but enjoyable shopping!

Repair of ski boots is done in almost any ski service. I will take the liberty of recommending Vitaly to Moscow from the Alpine Skiing store at the corner of Lyublinskaya and Saratovskaya streets (Lyublinskaya st., 7/2k1), Tekstilshchiki metro station, his tel. +7 910 400 8619 (hello from Oleg AnalyzeR!)

What breaks / wears out and is repaired:

• Clip-on clips - if you didn’t notice how it unfastened, it breaks easily, and this is the most common breakdown. They are simply replaced with the correct one.

• The soles of the boots - when walking on the asphalt, the heel breaks, after a while the boot just starts to spontaneously fall out of the bindings. In this case, a heel is glued to the sole, which levels the sole. In the same way, they make the “collapse” setting of boots for skiers with X and O figurative legs - this, by the way, is required by the majority!
• Inner boot (aka boots) - changes entirely and is formed under your feet. For the most durable, wear-resistant, and control-friendly option, I recommend the Intuition liner here >>

I have a problem with ski boots - the outer layer on one of the boots is torn along the seam, I guess it does not withstand fullness in the instep. More details can be seen at photos of my ski boot.

Do you think it can be sewn up or repaired?

If so, who in Yaroslavl does this? Contacts?

Or take it for granted and budget for new shoes?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

• Saturday on the ski track in the village. Nor. - October 20, 2018 (Saturday) at 09.00, all are welcome.
• Draft calendar plan of the WF polyathlo. - Sports competition Sports discipline Age.
• Sergei Vladimirtsev passed away - on October 11, 2018, at the age of 55, our friend and.
• We invite you to the duathlon in Pereslavl - Dear athletes, lovers of cyclic sports! .
• The track in the Mikhailovsky forest. New pet. - Friends, hello everyone! Of course, you know about the training.

Vladimir, at first glance, your problem with the repair of a ski boot can be solved. Or open the gap, glue the material from the inside and stitch the torn place with a zigzag. Then sew in place. Unless, of course, the material has already become less durable from old age! You just need to find a good shoemaker.

I found a female shoemaker that year. He does it neatly and with quality. Located in the Compass shopping center, ground floor (basement) - Yaroslavl, Dzerzhinsky district, Northern residential area, 10th microdistrict, Arkhangelsky proezd, 1B.

Here's Rossignol for you! For elite boots, one material is used, and for others, it is cheaper, which falls apart after a while.

According to the information received, there is also a shoe shop near the YaMZ checkpoint, where skiers repaired their ski boots. They say they did a perfect job.

Alexey, Thank you very much for the options!
For me, Motorny would be closer, now I rarely go to Bragino.
I’ll go, for a start, to the central checkpoint on Oktyabrya Ave., I’ll look there.!

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    And that there are so few reviews, or rather, they do not exist at all.
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    Congratulations on a successful finish at a distance of 21 km: Tatiana.
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there is a reason in what Flash said - in production, plastic is not so much thermoformed as it is THERMOPOLYMERIZED.

that is, it is like paint - it polymerized once, and that's it. Then, when heated, it will not be as plastic as it was at the same heat at the time of molding. And there's nothing to eat here. And if you overheat, it starts to decompose, with loss of strength, of course.

In general, the results:
Boots Rossignol Salto GTX
Put in front problem area inside a spacer imitating a bone at the base thumb feet, put with an interference fit, so that the boot has expanded compared to its original position.
They heated with a building hair dryer, without fanaticism, carefully.
During the heating process, there was no visible change in the structure and appearance of the material, but the plastic became soft.
As a result, at the point of support of the strut, the boot softened and arched, after cooling it retained its acquired shape.
The fitting showed that the problem with pressure on the bone was completely eliminated, it remains to check it on the slope, in “combat” conditions.

The photo is terrible. The left shoe in the photo (they stand with their toes towards the photographer), “squeezed out” towards the neighbor

A little "apnu" the old topic.

Boots put pressure on the bones in a couple of places in the foot.
There was a desire to add space there - to stretch the “soap box” of UPZ-comrade.
From tools - old board with a frog mount, several pieces of board, including a support board with a recess for the bolt head, with through holes for the M8 bolt, a “finish” blotch in a pull-out shape, an adjustable wrench, a bolt with a nut and a “body” washer, building hair dryer.

I marked in advance the place of the hood from the inside and outside.
I fixed the soap dish into a frog, inside I installed a supporting piece of wood with a recess under the bolt head, into it - a bolt, on which a pair of pieces of wood with a hole and a stop was put on.
Unscrewed the nut, resting the “punch” in Right place soap dishes and making a “tightness”

With a construction hair dryer, he carefully warmed up the soap dish from the inside and outside, and gradually unscrewed the nut.
From the initial 8 turns of the visible section of the thread, he reached 15 turns, where he stopped.

After the soap dish cooled, I tightened the nut and shook out the tool. On the soap dish in the desired place, there was a visible and very noticeable bulge, from the inside, respectively, a notch

Photos of the left (not pulled) and right (stretched) boots.
As far as it was possible to measure, the difference “before” and “after” was approximately 3-4 mm. It remains to check the result on the slope.

Because Rossignol.

I would be very grateful to those who answer the question - where in Moscow can I stick it.

Until recently, on this occasion (this is not the first case for me), I turned to the master in the M YugoZapadnaya area, but for some reason now I can’t get through to him. Maybe the number has changed.

Along the way, it will be interesting to find out how this, in principle, is done correctly. I strongly suspect that this is Epoxy resin. But here's the brand, hardener, plasticizer (if necessary), as well as the place where you can buy it, is a mystery to me.

In the life of every athlete involved in skiing, there are problems associated with the breakdown of equipment. In this article we will try to help you cope with the repair of ski boots (on SNS and Rotofella bindings).

One of the terrible breakdowns when the sole comes off. It is almost impossible to return the boot to its previous state. However, there is one the right way! To do this, we need small screws and a few thin nuts. All parts are sold at any hardware store. Let's make several narrow holes with a drill (according to the diameter of the screw), and insert our screws into them (it is advisable to drill at the junction of the boot with the mount), head down, screw our nuts from the inside of the boot.

Also, for better and longer-term holding, it is necessary to glue 2 parts (sole and boot) with glue, for example, Poxipol. So, we have attached only the bottom of the boot.

There was also the nose of the boot. Drill a hole at the nose of the boot. Just like in the sole, insert the screw and tighten the nut. If desired, you can put a riveting (it is advisable to purchase screws with a flat head).

All boots of the SNS type have a clasp, it is usually one. If used carelessly, it may break. If this happens, you need to get a thread, a needle, a durable piece of fabric. Remove the torn Velcro (fastener) from the boot. If the Velcro is torn into two parts, then it is necessary to sew dense fabric to two broken pieces. If the fastener is torn off in the place where a plastic ring is sewn to it, which clings to the boot, then it is necessary to put the fabric on the Velcro.

Wrap the edge of the fabric around the ring and sew. If you have lost, you can take a hard wire, but it will not last so long. At competitions they sell parts for boots (rarely). So if you lose any parts, you can buy them in addition. And also in the branded stores of the manufacturers of these boots.

On boots of a good brand like "Pilot SNS", special foot fixators are installed. It often happens that these clamps fall off the boot. To return the boot to its previous appearance, and most importantly the foot lock, you need 2 bolts (small diameter). We drill 2 holes in the plastic bar (latch).

And we pass them through the latch, and insert them into the boot. Accordingly, twisting from the inside of the boot with a nut. Now the latch will perform the previous functions. And you don't have to buy new shoes.

The pin (or brace) is the key piece in the boot.

I offer my own way to protect the pins. Since you have already found that the plastic holding the pin has begun to rub off, or the pin has already fallen out - do not be discouraged. You can try to solve this problem. To do this, we need epoxy glue (don't take it for advertising, but I used Bison brand glue), tape, file, sandpaper and newspaper (so as not to litter with production waste :)).

The idea is to fill the pin in the boot with epoxy glue. Clean up first sandpaper the place to be filled with glue. If the pin fell out, put it back in place. In order for the glue not to spill out of the intended area, stick around the plastic grooves on the toes of the boots with adhesive tape, after which the prepared glue can be poured. After this operation, the boot will look something like this:

In order for the glue to finally harden, you must wait a day (without removing the adhesive tape). After the glue has hardened, remove the adhesive tape (if it comes off :)) and clean off the excess parts of the glue with a file, so that it can be inserted into the mount. That's practically all.

But there are many ways to keep your boots from doing so. Here are some of them that will help your boots live a long and good life:

- change shoes, i.e. wear boots to the ski track and back;

– wipe the iron pins with a rag after training, because. snow is also water, corrosion can occur (although now the pins are made of stainless steel);

- do not walk in shoes on asphalt, this is fatal, because. a layer of plastic begins to peel off, and the pin can simply fall out;

- if it is still very problematic for you to carry boots with you to the skiing and back, then buy special covers for ski boots, or if you feel sorry for the money - make them yourself. Here is an example of homemade covers:

Approximately in this way it can be put on a boot:

By following all these tips, you will prolong the life of your ski boots.

There is a master with golden hands. If it is free, it will be taken.

Such things, perhaps indeed - will be repaired: aha:

And here I took a specific breakdown to treat ..

I got shoes with a broken heel - 1/3 of the sticker on the foot was chipped off + a small chip in the plastic of the boot itself.

Yesterday I started the repair - epoxy was used. until it hardens.

I promise to make a cool report at the end of the repair.

I won’t get a cool report, but there is information for reflection.

Source: a cracked boot on the toe. Crack on the side, from the point where the toe and sidewall meet. He treated like this:
a hole is drilled at the end of the crack (well, that's understandable)
I tried to grab it with epoxy - it doesn’t take it (well, it depends on the plastic - I processed the surface normally)
from metal mesh"patch" cut out right size and shape (to bridge the crack with good stock) and is fused into the body of the boot with a soldering iron.

On the boots repaired in this way, I skated for a couple of days, the mesh was a little shabby, but we can assume that the test passed. Of course, the bots are already clinically dead, but the corpse moves and even performs the functions assigned to it.
If anyone is interested, I can take a picture of it (a corpse, in the sense).

Threat method can only work for cracks, a chipped piece will not return it))
By the way, water boy, as an option - to pile a new lining (it is removable, you can simply replace it). Since no epoxy can withstand the loads that fall on this part of the boot.

Skiers will understand me well. Especially those who have experienced this at least once. And if you have not encountered it yet, then sooner or later you will definitely encounter it.

Salomon ski boots

So, you buy Salomon ski boots (or similar) with Pilot bindings. Not those in which pensioners ride in the park, but those in which you can show good results on a prepared track. You get the appropriate bindings for them and install them on the skis. This whole construction costs a lot - whoever rides will understand me. And after a very short time of skiing - several seasons - a problem happens to them. Namely, lightning breaks. I must say that the design of the boots and the way the zipper is installed there is fundamentally different from the usual winter boots. In boots, everything is simple - pulled out a broken zipper and sewed another one. This is done in any shoe shop. The Salomon is a completely different story - the complex high-tech design of the boot is designed to set records in them, and not replace zippers.

In short, when this happened to the boots,

the first thought is to go and buy new ones, it is unlikely that something can be done here.

Nearest sports shops

Immediately after skiing, we went to the nearest sports shops. The most surprising thing is that at the beginning of the season, both in Decathlon and in Sportmaster, only one Salomon running model was on sale: Decathlon sold only one size, and Sportmaster had any sizes, but the boots cost about 14 thousand rubles, which too much even for the start of the season, if you're not going to set records.

Fischer and other brands are not suitable due to mounting mismatch. About in these stores, apparently, they have not even heard of.

What is discussed on the ski forums

What to do? As usual in such cases, you need to turn to the Internet. It turned out that this topic is quite popular on the skiers' forum and is discussed every year. It needs to be repaired, that's for sure. Some forum members found good specialists in their areas - in ordinary shoe repair shops.

Need to try. In the first workshop, they immediately refused to take the shoes, they said, come when the master is there, talk to him, we cannot accept such an order without him. But in the second, having carefully examined and assessed the scale of the disaster, the master suggested a variant of how to insert a new zipper without affecting the rigid structures of the boot.

In short, either the master was afraid that I was photographing the shoe in his presence, or he was just a super-master, but two days later Salomon looked like new!

The master walked around the rigid design of the boot very filigree.

For what price? 450 rub! If you are interested - write, I will tell you the address of the workshop.

There is only one conclusion - always look for options, and do not rush to do what first comes to mind!

• COMPLEX "Economy" (pre-grinding, sharpening and paraffin) 850

  Grinding and sharpening of the edge along the edge on the tape, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Economy +" (pre-sanding, filling scratches, sharpening and paraffin) 1650

  Grinding and sharpening of the edge along the edge on the tape, repair of the sliding surface, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Standard" (pre-grinding, filling of scratches, extra-grinding, sharpening and paraffin) 2400

  Grinding and sharpening of the edge along the edge on the tape, repair of the sliding surface, extra-grinding on the stone, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Nordic" (extra-section, filling of scratches, extra-section and paraffin) 1800

  Repair of the sliding surface, extra polishing on the stone, complete paraffin machine treatment.

• COMPLEX "Comfort" (pre-grinding, filling scratches, extra-grinding, sharpening, edge tuning and paraffin) 2750

  Grinding and sharpening of the edge along the edge on the tape, repair of the sliding surface, extra-grinding on the stone, tuning of the edge along the edge, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "All inclusive" (the whole complex of works is included) 3990

  Grinding and sharpening of the edge along the edge on the tape, repair of the sliding surface, extra-grinding on the stone, repair (delamination, deformation of the edge), tuning of the edge along the edge, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Processing with paraffin Universal" (machine) 300

  Cleaning the base with a wash, if necessary processing with a metal (bronze) brush, applying universal paraffin on a WaxJet machine, polishing. Processing the sliding surface of alpine skis with paraffin significantly improves their driving performance. At the same time, the application of hot molten paraffin is an occupation, firstly, dangerous, secondly, it requires special skills, and thirdly, it has its own tricks and subtleties. Our specialists will apply universal all-weather paraffin wax on your skis on a professional machine, and you will be able to enjoy excellent glide in any weather.

• COMPLEX "Treatment with thermal paraffin" (iron, paraffin is not included in the price) 250

  Cleaning the base with a wash, if necessary processing with a metal (bronze) brush, applying base paraffin with an iron, sanding and polishing with brushes. HOLDING OINTMENT: Cleaning the pad with a wash, sanding, applying the holding ointment with an iron "pyramid in 3 layers".

• COMPLEX "Treatment with base paraffin" (iron, base paraffin is included in the price) 390

  Cleaning the base with a wash, if necessary processing with a metal (bronze) brush, applying 1 layer of base paraffin with an iron. To ensure that your skis last as long as possible, before long-term storage they need to be conserved. Preservation takes place in several stages: cleaning the sliding surface, applying paraffin with an iron, scraping, as well as treating the edges with an anti-rust composition. Paraffin will prevent drying and oxidation of the sliding surface, and your skis will not lose their driving performance.

• COMPLEX "Processing of skis with holding ointment" (ointment is included in the price) 390

• COMPLEX "Applying a layer of paraffin for conservation" (iron, basic paraffin included in the price) 350

• COMPLEX "Applying a layer of paraffin for conservation" (machine) 200

• ACTION "Universal paraffin treatment (machine) and conservation at the end of the season" (machine) 400

Individual services

• Installation or replacement of clips, combs, etc. on g / l boots (1 part) screw. conn. 300

• Installation or replacement of clips, combs, etc. on g / l boots (1 part) riveting connection. 550

  If you have lost or broken a clip or comb on your boots, our service centers will pick up the necessary replacement for you.

• Manual edge sharpening 850

  For reliable performance of carved turns and confident, safe descents on hard trails, it is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the edges of alpine skis. Manual sharpening edging requires highly professional skills so as not to disturb the angle of the edging. Our specialists will accurately sharpen the edges on your skis using special tools.

• Manual sharpening of edges on the base 950

  For reliable performance of carved turns and confident, safe descents on hard trails, it is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the edges of alpine skis. Manual sharpening of edges requires highly professional skills in order not to disturb the angle of inclination of the edges. Our specialists will accurately sharpen the edges on your skis using special tools.

• Complicated delamination repair 890

  If you have stored your skis incorrectly or have not used paraffin lubricants, the core could dry out and begin to peel off. In this case, you can extend the life of the inventory by contacting a professional service center.

• Complicated edge repair (deformation) 1590

  In most cases, a knocked out, torn, partially lost ski edge must be repaired. Our service specialists will necessary work to restore the edge geometry and further trouble-free operation of your equipment.

• Extra polishing on stone 800

  The application of the structure (shteinshlift) can significantly improve the sliding properties of alpine skis. Machine grinding is the most difficult, but at the same time the most The best way preparation of the sliding surface. Alpine skis, prepared on a professional machine by a qualified specialist, have improved driving performance.

• Grinding and sharpening of the edge on the base on the tape 600

  The base is polished on a professional Wintersteiger machine. A perfectly smooth sliding surface without scratches and lint is the key to excellent ski behavior. The TRIM machine guarantees excellent quality of edge grinding both from the side surface and from the side of the sliding surface of alpine skis.

• Shortening sticks 300

  When skiing, poles perform a very important function and must be appropriate for your height. If you made the wrong choice of sticks in the store and find that riding with them is inconvenient, do not rush to buy new ones. In our service centers you can shorten your ski poles to fit your height.

• Sliding surface repair 800

  If during operation the sliding surface of alpine skis is damaged, this seriously impairs their performance. Professional and timely repair will help solve the problem and extend the life of your inventory.

• Ski and snowboard decor repairs 450

  In our services you can restore appearance of your inventory by removing scratches and scuffs from the face of your skis.

• Edge sharpening on the tape 250

  The TRIM machine guarantees excellent quality of edge grinding both from the side surface and from the side of the sliding surface of alpine skis.

• Application of the finishing structure on the stone 750

  The professional equipment of our services allows applying a given structure with precise parameters to the sliding surface of skis. The application of the structure significantly improves the performance of alpine skis and makes their surface more susceptible to paraffin ointments.

• Kant tuning by base 450

• Edge tuning on the edge 350

  In our services, you can sharpen edges on professional equipment. The TRIM machine guarantees excellent quality of edge grinding both from the side surface and from the side of the sliding surface of alpine skis. Edge sharpening is carried out in two directions, providing the possibility of applying any number of sharpening angles, both from the side surface and from the side of the sliding surface at the same time.

• Scraping finishing and brushing (reopening) 250

  Rotary brushes are used to clean the sliding surface from dirt and old wax, as well as to apply a microstructure to alpine skis and polish the sliding surface. Our specialists will qualitatively and professionally prepare your alpine skiing for the new season. Our qualified specialists service centers will make a manual scraping of your skis. After finishing scraping, the sliding surface of alpine skis is perfectly smooth and ready for use.

• Grinding / scraping coarse (manual) 450

  Modern materials used for sliding surfaces of alpine skis provide excellent glide. However, such material is quite susceptible to mechanical damage and requires regular maintenance, which will extend the life of your winter equipment and improve its driving performance. Scraping is the process of removing the top layer of a sliding surface with an already formed pile using a scraper. In our services, qualified specialists will scrape your skis.

• Structuring by hand knurling Swix 300

Mounts

• Mounting bindings on cross-country skis and rollerskis 350

  From correct installation fasteners largely depend on further work skis. The binding should be installed in the center of gravity for the optimal ratio of rigidity and elasticity of the ski, the best balance and control of the ski. To install the mount, it is desirable to use a special tool that provides convenience and reliability. so accurate and important work It is better to entrust the specialists of our service centers. Many leading ski manufacturers strongly recommend that bindings be installed only in specialized workshops.

• Installation of ski bindings with drilling according to the template 1000

• Installing bindings on skis and snowboards without drilling 450

  The correct operation of the fasteners is the basis of your safety. Bindings must ensure a reliable connection of the boot with the ski within allowable loads on the leg and release it when the threshold is exceeded. Our craftsmen will install and adjust the bindings on your skis to make your skiing enjoyable and safe.

• Removing fasteners 180

  If you decide to change boots and bindings, then in our service centers you will dismantle the old bindings and offer preventive treatment of the remaining holes with special compounds that prevent moisture from entering the ski cavity and rotting of the core.

• Individual adjustment of actuation force 120

  Incorrect setting of the fastening actuation force can lead to the most unpleasant consequences. Setting it too hard can cause you to fall and leave your skis on your feet, increasing the risk of serious injury. On the contrary, with a weak setting, the fasteners will unfasten at the most inopportune moment. In our services, you will select an individual setting for the actuation force of the binding, depending on your weight and level of training.

• Processing old holes when reinstalling 240

  The holes left from the old fasteners must be processed special composition, which will ensure the tightness of the ski. If water enters the ski cavity through the hole, the core will begin to rot.

• Restoration of torn sections of ski and snowboard bindings (1 element) 450

  If during active operation you damaged a part of the mount, then the specialists of our services will restore the design of the mounts by replacing or repairing the damaged elements.

• Installing ski bindings with drilling without a template 1590

  The correct operation of the fasteners is the basis of your safety. Bindings must ensure reliable connection of the boot with the ski within the permissible loads on the leg and release it when the threshold is exceeded. Our craftsmen will install and adjust the bindings on your skis to make your skiing enjoyable and safe.