What green manure to sow after garlic. What green manure is suitable for onions? Such important "doctors" of the soil

At a reasonable time (September 15-20 - we are talking about the Chernozem region) garlic is planted in rows (more precisely, double-row ribbons). In this case, the rows are quite appropriate: garlic needs enough deep landing, and watered grooves make life easier for the gardener and, especially, for the fingers.
So:
scratching the grooves
pour water on the bottoms so that the teeth are pressed into the soil, like into oil,
we stick the teeth in a “zigzag” so that their bottoms are at a depth of 8-10 cm,
filling up the grooves
we sow some kind of yaritsu (best of all - mustard),
you can crush a ripe physalis (if you like it) and scatter its pieces over
garden bed;
we harrow the garden bed (at the same time, deeply planted teeth will not be disturbed).

By the end of autumn, mustard and garlic will sprout well (unless, of course, it was planted on time, and not “like everyone else”, that is, “on Pokrova”). With the onset of cold weather, the mustard will fall and cover the garlic. As green manure, you can sow other yaritsa, for example, oats or barley. They are also cold-resistant and have time to build up a copious mass. True, this mass lays down in a dense carpet, and can contribute to the decay of garlic. At the same time, the mustard will fall more loosely, and the strongest stems will not fall down in winter, hold back the snow, and after the solstice will draw melt water into the funnels that form around them and will not give her a reason to remember the rhyme "Streams run, streams run ...".

In the spring, between the garlic ribbons, disturbing the mustard “felt” as little as possible, small ditches are scratched, and (rarely!) The seeds of some umbrella plants are sown in them - parsnips, carrots, leaf celery and some parsley. In no case should you sow dill

Garlic, of course, overtakes the "neighbors", as it meets spring with a well-developed root system and does not "sit out" at the start. Later, celery will rise and even later, in May, physalis will “wake up”. It comes up quite rarely. AT last resort, it can be thinned out - leave 1-2 plants per square meter.
After harvesting garlic, physalis and celery get full light, grow, give a harvest - some tops and some roots.

In autumn we dig up parsnips. Let's leave a couple of parsnip roots to winter in the garden (parsnip - in our winters - never freezes). These will be queen cells for next year. Celery and carrots should not be chosen too carefully either: quite often winters happen when celery (and, indeed, less often carrots) safely winter in the garden, and the next summer we have priceless queen cells (priceless because they will give exactly fresh seeds, and not a "pig in a poke" that happens to be bought out of a bag on the market).

We also leave parsley to winter in the garden - next spring we get greenery, almost from under the snow. Later, the physalis carrion will rise. It remains only to chop the extra plants in this truly perennial garden bed. We have such a (originally garlic) bed gave physalis and parsley (in the manner of a wild bed in the forest, not knowing steel) for more than ten years.
Were there weeds? Certainly! But they didn’t interfere with us - we controlled them, didn’t let them inseminate, used them for infusions, and we were only interested in physalis berries and all kinds of greens. When the garden bed became obscenely neglected (pooped up), it was “repurposed”.

Isn't it an amusing illustration of the thesis about laziness as an engine of progress? Do not dig root crops "intentionally" - and you will be with seeds. Do not pick up fallen berries from the ground - and you will be with physalis for several years. By the way, this is the most reasonable method of growing physalis. He does not “recognize” seedlings and transplanting at all - well, let him sprout and grow according to “his own clock”. Myself. No "dancing" around him.

Imagine - a dozen years of what this garden bed did not give. And all this is practically hassle-free. For example, every gardener knows how difficult it is to wait for parsley shoots. How often gardeners are left without parsley at all (at least until summer). We don’t know this trouble - and only because our beds can be “arbitrary”.

The examples in sections 1.1 and 1.2 show how much unnecessary work can be eliminated by switching from rows to scattered planting. Be lazy - and cut dividends. At the same time, you can once again be convinced that permaculture is not something exclusively “alpine” or Australian, and does not come down solely to design, that in any garden you can be a little permaculturist if you are too lazy (but, of course, not with your head!).

To paraphrase Zabolotsky, we can say: "The head is obliged to work - day and night, and day and night." So, having worked not on the palms and back, but on the “gray convolutions”, you can do dozens of times more easy fit garlic.

It was said above that the refusal to stick a poke gives the same bulbs, but only with crooked necks. And what if we put up with crooked necks and garlic? Then the teeth can not be stuck, but simply put on the ground! Moreover, armed with a sufficiently thick tube, you can generally plant garlic while standing. In more detail, the procedure for planting garlic "standing" looks like this:

For two-line garlic ribbons, grooves 7-8 cm deep and wide are scratched;
the grooves are flattened - either with the help of a bar, or by watering;
the gardener pulls the tube (with an oblique lower cut) along the groove so that the teeth lie 8-10 cm along one edge of the groove;
then, on the return stroke, the tube is pulled so that the teeth lie along the other edge of the groove;
if somewhere the location of the teeth does not suit the gardener, they can be “pushed” with the same tube;
subsequent work is done as described above for the bow.

It is not difficult to imagine such a filigree game. The tube stretches with the lower part of the oblique cut in the middle of the groove and turns with this cut either to the left or to the right, so that the teeth lie alternately on the left edge of the groove, then on the right. You can work together: one pulls and twirls the pipe, and the other throws his teeth into the funnel.

Dear peers! Isn't it easier to plant garlic for our backs? And sometimes - the landing itself becomes possible at all. Of course, such a “work” (indecent - in this case - omit the quotes) may also appeal to younger gardeners. I may seem naive, but perhaps through the "game" it will be possible to turn the youth to the ground, to let them experience the real pleasure of talking to "you" with a friendly garden? And what it is - pleasure, I know firsthand, "first hand."

Let me remind you that when laying the teeth, the heads will be deformed - with a crooked neck. But garlic will remain garlic. In particular, continental garlic (sometimes Ukrainians call it Moskal) will be just as fierce, rocambole will be softer, and spring garlic will be even softer. In general, the taste and smell of garlic (and only for the sake of them we grow it) “do not remember” the shape of the turnip neck.

Aesthetes can give a hint. Planting garlic can be made quite beautiful by orienting the garlic leaves in one direction. To do this, it is enough to know that garlic feathers grow "parallel" to the rounded edge of the clove, i.e. like flat edges. I saw it at the neighbor Volodya Batkov. It turns out. And, frankly, it's beautiful. There is garlic, like a company of soldiers on the parade ground

But back to garlic. It has never been considered an “easy”, reliable culture (you can’t compare, for example, garlic with dill). Garlic can freeze, and get wet, and rot, and simply not be born - such complaints are quite frequent. However, the way garlic is handled above makes it both an easy and reliable crop. With us, it succeeds "iron", in any weather.

And, to show that garlic can make life much easier for a gardener, that it is an inexhaustible source of tricks, I will tell you about another way of lazy, carefree cultivation of garlic in sufficient quantities.

Let the bed is planned for tomatoes. We perform the following actions:

In the first half of September, we sow the garden with mustard (naturally, randomly);
on top of the mustard we scatter garlic bulbs sparsely; separate sowing is due to the fact that different “Gridchin seeders” are needed for sowing mustard and bulbs (see paragraph 1.4);
we harrow the bed to cover the seeds and bulbs (it’s even better to weed them - at the same time, the weeds will be weeded out);
in spring, garlic shoots through the snow - from this moment on, you can collect tender and odorous garlic plants for the table (in unlimited quantities); at the same time, it is necessary, as it were, to break through the garlic, providing the plants with such insulation that they are 8-10 cm apart from each other; when the time comes to plant tomatoes, interest in garlic will come to naught - the feathers will coarsen, and the heads will still be insignificant;
under a stick or peg (see paragraph 2.1) we plant tomatoes, not paying attention to garlic;
soon the garlic will dry out, but only from above: single teeth will remain in the soil - an excellent planting material; planting - an obvious reservation, because single-toothed ones do not need to be planted - they are already “planted” and will remain wintering in the ground;
in autumn, the same mustard must be sown on "live" tomatoes.

In the spring, the leaving snow will randomly shoot through the sown (I emphasize - sown!) Garlic, with a straight, by the way, neck, and by the time of harvesting the single-tooth will show that they are planting material- no worse than teeth.

Not only does garlic grow on such a three-year-old bed, practically without parental care, “by bastard”, in addition, a rather acute problem of seed teeth is removed! It is with this problem, not least, that the “on-duty” shortage of garlic and its high cost on the market are connected. After all, getting garlic for planting is only half the battle. Due to the fact that garlic has the repulsive undersize property

(leading decrease in harvest cloves compared to planting cloves), only the largest cloves should be taken from the head for planting. Single teeth also remove this concern - the yield obtained from them does not have such a noticeable dependence on the size of the "seed".
On occasions like this, my students would say "That's not bad!". And I see no reason to look for a more accurate assessment of the trick. To list all the bonuses - the hand gets tired.

True, I can’t resist one bonus: the garden bed has become three years old! Of course, it is far from the canonical image of a permaculture garden-garden (edible forest garden), which copies natural sustainable biocenoses (swamp, forest, steppe), but still ... For garden permaculture, which deals mainly with annual plants, - acceptable. In the end, the management of this garden bed was not accompanied by any kind of external costs: in the plants themselves, from the inside, such connections were sought out that were used for the benefit of both the garden and the gardener.

In a “normal” garden, one would have to dig, dig, store, plant, weed, spend money on seed heads ... But why, if single-toothed ones left in the ground know better than all the authors put together when to fall asleep and wake up? You just need to entrust them with self-government - neither lull them to sleep, nor wake them up.

Sometimes the gardener only thinks that he knows everything about culture. For example, you can find recommendations to plant garlic later so that it does not have time to rise before frost. And it is not clear how such "knowledge" was born. After all, late-planted teeth can go into the winter without roots, in presentation and ... in a snowless winter, freeze or squeeze out (which does not happen with teeth hibernating in a state of suspended animation, who managed to let go of their “beard” and “anchor”).

Bulbs of garlic:

Single teeth:

To obtain good harvest you need to know how to properly plant garlic. It is worth considering that the methods of planting this plant crop depend on its variety. But in any case, before all the manipulations, it will be necessary to prepare the beds for garlic. The bed must be prepared in advance, as for favorable growth plants need not only temperature, but also soil fertility, soil structure, crop rotation.

Before you start planting garlic, you need to decide on its variety. Each of them will have their own terms, landing norms. Spring varieties are planted in spring, and winter varieties in autumn. Winter crops will sprout earlier, and accordingly will yield faster. Winter heads are much larger than spring heads, but they are inferior in their keeping quality. The spring variety keeps well, but its bulbs are slightly smaller. Many summer residents recommend growing both types in order to fully provide themselves with this useful vegetable for the whole year.

Winter varieties of garlic should be planted no earlier than 1–1.5 months before the onset of stable cold weather. If this condition was not met, the plant will sprout earlier, and the seedlings will freeze under the influence of negative temperatures. Spring varieties are planted in mid-spring: in the second half of March, early April. Active growth of the culture will be observed when the temperature is set at 18–20 degrees. Garlic should be planted with cloves, after 3 weeks the seed will take root.

Choosing a place for a bed for garlic

In order for the plant to give a good harvest, it is necessary not only to properly prepare the seed, but also to correctly select the site. For this plant culture, the sun and the presence of a moderate amount of moisture are very important. It is not recommended to plant a plant crop in the shade of trees and shrubs, as in this case garlic will not be enough. sunlight. If the bed is located on wet area, it should be made higher to ensure a complete outflow of excess moisture.

Also, when choosing a place, it is necessary to take into account the principles of crop rotation. For several years in a row, this plant culture cannot be planted in the same area. The best option it is considered planting a plant in its original place after 5 years, this period can be reduced to a minimum of 3 years. It is best to plant garlic in the place of growth of cucumbers, peppers, zucchini, cabbage, beans. Spring varieties feel great on loam, and winter varieties on sandy loam.

Is it possible to plant garlic grown older than the required period and where? Harvesting is required to be carried out on time, but if the crop is "overripe", it should not be used as a seed. It does not matter the place where the landing is planned.

How to prepare a bed for garlic?

To get a good quality crop, it is necessary to properly prepare the beds before planting. During the preparation of the beds for garlic Special attention should be given to soil disinfection. This procedure helps to protect the plant from most pathologies. Most often, tillage is carried out using the following compositions:

• antiseptic Acrobat;
• antiseptic Radomil Gold;
• antifungal drug Fitosporin;
• antimycotic composition Topsin-M.

A solution of copper sulfate, a saturated solution of potassium permanganate can also be used. For this purpose, many summer residents use a liquid prepared from a bucket of water and 100 grams of the Brodo mixture. Also high efficiency shows a solution prepared from 1 liter of water, grams boric acid, a similar amount of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate.

Preparing the soil for garlic

Exist General requirements soil preparation for planting garlic for spring and winter varieties. Among them are:

• if the soil is clayey, it is required to add 1 bucket of sand or peat per 1 square meter;
• in situations where the ground is sandy, it must be mixed with 2 buckets clay soil, 1 bucket of peat per 1 square meter;
• if it prevails peat soil, you need to add 1 bucket of sand and a similar amount of loamy soil to it.

To increase the fertility rate, it is required to fertilize the land with organic substances. How to fertilize the ground before planting garlic? For this, humus, compost is perfect. Chalk is added to 1 bucket of the selected organic matter or dolomite flour in the amount of 1 glass, 1 glass wood ash, 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate. It is necessary to distribute the prepared fertilizer on the uncultivated soil. If earlier, when growing a different crop, manure was already applied, such tillage is not required.

We form a bed

Measures to prepare the beds for planting garlic include digging the soil. Wherein necessary fertilizers evenly distributed in accordance with the recommended proportions. Further, the earth is dug up, while a depth equal to the spade bayonet should be observed. During digging, you need to immediately form a ridge. The optimal dimensions are considered to be a width of 1 meter and a height of 20 centimeters.

How far apart should the rows be on the garlic bed? Optimal distance between rows is considered a gap of 30 centimeters.

During digging, weeds must be removed immediately so that they do not interfere with the growth of the planted crop. Then the soil is subjected to loosening in order to enrich the earth with oxygen.

Give time for soil to shrink

After loosening, it is necessary to allow the soil to settle a little. It usually takes 14 days. Soil settlement will allow landing at a distance planned during planting: that is, the teeth will not be buried above the norm.

So that the soil settles more actively, it should be watered. The introduction of the necessary moisture will accelerate the settling process by 1.5 times. In rainy weather, the irrigation procedure should be abandoned.

We cultivate the soil

How to cultivate the soil from the moment the teeth are planted? Many summer residents recommend processing the beds, taking into account the following recommendations. For winter varieties, mineral fertilizers are applied at the end of summer, which include organic components. Optimal time for this: the second half of August. Also at this time, the cultivation of green manure for garlic is recommended.

1. Digging up the soil, watering.
2. After planting, mustard seeds are sown between the rows.
3. By the time you need to plant the seed, the greens will sprout. Between its rows and you will need to plant teeth.

A couple of days before transplanting into the ground, urea is distributed over the ridges: 0.5 tablespoon of the product is applied per 1 square meter. If at the same time the weather is dry, it is necessary to organize watering of the beds.

To prepare a bed for a spring variety, all manipulations must be started at the end of October. In this case, urea is not required to be added, since in autumn period nitrogenous fertilizers will be redundant. It is best to distribute this drug on the soil in early spring.

How to prepare garlic for planting?

Many summer residents say: "I am preparing garlic seeds for planting in the fall." This approach to the preparation of seed material is correct, since the harvested fresh crop of the spring variety will be an excellent basis for the formation of new strong plant crops. Spring garlic cloves are strong, so full-fledged plants grow from them, giving a rich harvest. That is why many summer residents are engaged in the cultivation of spring varieties to obtain not only a lying healthy vegetable, but also seed material for the next year.

We disassemble the head into teeth

To get a good harvest, you need to understand: what material to leave for planting. The first step is to inspect the bulb: it should not have any damage. Further, the head is disassembled into slices, while it is necessary to pay attention to the size of the clove. For planting, it is better to take large, dense teeth, as they can form a healthy full-fledged plant. If the summer resident decides to use garlic cloves of a variety that does not produce arrows for planting, it is necessary to give preference to cloves located outside.

Disinfecting garlic

The selected planting material is soaked for 24 hours in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. Also, for disinfection, you can use a 1% solution of copper sulphate. At the end of the specified period, the teeth become completely ready for planting.

Proper planting of single cloves of garlic

Garlic should be planted on formed beds, maintaining a distance between the teeth of 15 centimeters. If the summer resident has a small plot, it is allowed to use the method of two-tier planting of garlic. It is as follows:

1. A stick is taken, on which a height of 6 and 13 centimeters is marked.
2. In a bed prepared in advance, with its help, a recess of 13 centimeters is made.
3. A clove is placed in the hole, and then it is sprinkled with earth until the depth is reduced to 6 centimeters.
4. Then another tooth is placed.

The hole is sprinkled with rotted compost. The distance between the holes should also be 15 centimeters.

1. Making holes

We sit on the prepared bed, mark the distance between the holes for planting garlic: it should be 15 centimeters. The recess can be done with your fingers. You can also use a stick on which the depth is marked, which is in the range of 3-15 centimeters. In this case, the landing process will be simplified.

2. Bury the garlic cloves

After the garlic is fully prepared for planting, it is laid out in previously measured holes. It is not worth pressing the planting material into the soil, as this will cause compaction of the earth, a strong deepening of the teeth, which will lead to the late formation of the root system. The best option there will be an easy location of the tooth inside the hole.

3. We cultivate the land

If the preparation of the soil, the soil for planting garlic was complete, additional tillage after planting the planting material is not required. If the soil is dry, it should be cultivated by arranging watering with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

4. Fall asleep holes

Garlic deepened into the soil should be sprinkled with rotted compost. Fresh manure cannot be used for these purposes, as it will provoke the development of fungal diseases.

What green manure is sown under garlic? The best green manure for garlic is mustard and phacelia. However, they should be sown 2.5–3 months before planting garlic. 3 weeks before the flowering of grasses, they should be mowed and dug up with large quantity soil. Such treatment will not only disinfect the earth, but also protect the plant from the nematode.

5. Mulch the garden

When growing winter garlic, the beds should be covered with a 3–5 cm layer of mulch. When spring comes, the covering material remains to rot, while the summer resident needs to remove only the large mulch necessary to keep the snow on the ridges. This treatment increases crop yields by enriching the soil with nutrients.

Mulching spring garlic when planting in early spring activates the growth and development of the plant during the growing season. In this case, an important thing must be observed: the mulch should be light, for example, straw. This covering material will contribute to:

• slowing down the growth of weed plants;
• moisture retention;
• frost protection;
• increasing the air permeability of the soil;
• increase in moisture permeability of the soil;
• increasing the fertility of the land.

Mulching is required to be abandoned only in the rainy period, as mulch contributes to the accumulation of moisture. Because of this, a favorable environment is formed for the development of fungal, bacterial diseases. If the mulch has been laid, but the summer becomes rainy, the covering material must be discarded. In this case, part of the mulch from the planted garlic is removed with a shovel and sent to compost pit to get humus.

Planting winter garlic is associated with a certain part of the risk, since not a single piece of land is empty on the site. And in this case, it is very important to understand what grew up to garlic here and whether it is possible to plant it in this place after its predecessor. We will tell you, after which, before winter, it is possible to plant garlic without fear, after which civilizations this is not recommended.

So, let's see after which crops winter garlic can be planted. Any of the crops we grow on our site takes away from the earth the necessary and high-calorie substances it needs. After a set period of time, the reserves of the earth begin to dry up, and before planting a new crop, it is necessary to plant plants for the foundation that will restore the fertility of the earth. This process is called fertilization. Thanks to him, the absolute exhaustion of soil reserves is prevented.

Almost all gardeners know that growing one crop in 1 place every year is not recommended. This rule also applies to garlic. A rare case is potatoes, strawberries, beans, tomatoes.

Since garlic has a short root system, it is more correct to grow crops with long roots in front of it. With such a root system, when growing, it is very depleting outer layer earth. And if you already plant something before garlic, then directly those plants that will get food from the deepest layers.

It is useful to introduce basic fertilizers during the growing period of predecessors, since in the autumn, before planting garlic, their use may be unnecessary.

What can you plant garlic after? Cereal crops (besides oats and barley) are considered the best predecessors for garlic, because they, like excellent green manure, increase the quality of the land. Excellent predecessors are also fodder grasses like clover and alfalfa, and besides squash and squash. If berries were previously grown on the selected site, then garlic can also be planted after them.

With a certain stretch, those vegetables that are demanding on nitrogen are suitable as precursors of winter garlic: cabbage, tomato, pumpkin, cucumber and pepper.

We are often asked if it is possible to plant garlic after peas? Yes! This is one of best predecessors. What else can they be:

• green manure crops (other than oats and barley);
• fodder grasses (alfalfa, clover);
• legumes (beans, peas). ;
• squash;
• zucchini;
• pumpkin;
• berries;
• early cabbage, cauliflower;
• cucumbers.

Valid predecessors:

• cabbage of medium, late species;
• tomato;
• pepper;
• eggplant.

Is it possible to plant garlic after mustard? Mustard works great for planting winter garlic. Sowing is carried out in July-August on zones free from under the main crops. For 2 months in the garden, mustard manages to accumulate a whole volume of green mass, which is plowed directly into the soil with the help of a flat cutter or digging. Embedding of greenery is carried out before the beginning of flowering. Start planting garlic winter views like bulbils, also teeth, perhaps 3 weeks after ploughing.

Spring varieties can also be planted in beds after mustard, the main requirement is that the green manure crop must be planted in autumn, so that by the time the cloves are planted in early spring, the biomass has completely decomposed. Mustard enriches the soil with the necessary nitrogen, phosphorus, a complex of trace elements, to which garlic is very demanding.

After what crops can not plant garlic

Garlic should not be planted after individual vegetables. For example, carrots greatly deplete the soil. However, after its cultivation, it does not need to be planted on given place not only garlic, but other crops as well, until the earth rests.

It is strictly forbidden to plant garlic after onions, it is considered a consumer of potassium, depletes the supply of trace elements in the soil. Potatoes and beets are not suitable as predecessors, after which garlic plantings are often affected by Fusarium.

Between plantings of the garlic itself, it is necessary to withstand 3-4 years, otherwise there is a threat of getting a bad, including a sick, crop. Most plants are affected by the stem nematode.

Do you follow crop rotation rules?

Yes, I complyNo, I do not comply

Let's take a look at the compatibility of garlic with others vegetable crops in the garden. Due to the significant concentration of biologically active elements, garlic plays the role of a natural fungicide in the garden, successfully coping with various fungal infections. In addition, phytoncides secreted by the plant are ready to restrain the growth of pathogens. These outstanding qualities have a great effect on the neighbors of garlic, helping them to be strong and strong.

For example, planting potatoes surrounded by garlic seedlings are less affected by late blight.

A few garlic cloves that sit between strawberry bushes in autumn can scare away insect pests from the future fragrant crop.

A bed of garlic next to a carrot will help rid the latter of the invasion of the carrot fly, the psyllid.

Garlic will also be a good companion for other vegetables and herbs: onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley and any kind of salads. Its cloves are planted directly between plants.

Berries and flowers also adore garlic as a protector and helper. More grateful "partners" will be raspberries and currants, as well as roses, gladioli and tulips.

Expert opinion

Filatov Ivan Yurievich, private farmer for over 30 years

What can be planted after garlic next year?

1. In place of winter you can plant spinach, dill, lettuce, arugula. It's a good idea to sow green manure for a while for good soil for the next crop.
2. In place of spring: cucumbers, tomatoes, beets and potatoes, as well as everyone's favorite blueberries and no less favorite legumes.

Video: what to plant after garlic

This short video will show you clearly what, how and with what grows. Have a rich harvest!

Properly observing crop rotation, it is possible to count on a healthy and rich harvest of garlic. It is important to choose a serene place where moisture does not stagnate, then the plants will receive enough light and will not suffer from excess moisture.

What are the most effective siderates for winter garlic? Experienced gardeners it is advised to sow the area reserved for garlic with mustard. This cruciferous culture releases ethers and phytoncides into the soil, which have a detrimental effect on the stem nematode, the main pest of garlic plantations.

Moreover, it has disinfecting properties as root system mustard, and green biomass plowed into the soil for decomposition.

The method of planting winter garlic in green manure.

There are two ways to plant garlic in mustard:

• The first way is when the mustard is planted in a solid forging. There is no need to be afraid that the mustard roots will somehow harm the garlic, this will not happen. Because mustard will not create any competition for garlic. Since garlic will grow and develop next year. And the mustard will die with the first frost. And will be food for our garlic;
• The second way - mustard is sown in rows, and garlic is planted between the mustard rows.

As in the first and in the second case, it is most convenient to plant garlic with a planting cone.

The optimal distance for planting garlic is 6 - 7 centimeters in the row and 20 - 25 centimeters in the aisle. It is necessary to deepen a clove of garlic into the soil at 2 heights of a clove of planted garlic, as a rule it is 5-7 centimeters.

The timing of planting winter garlic depends on the region of residence and on the current weather in this season. For central Russia, this is around October 4, which is about four weeks before the onset of stable frosts.

The main reference point should be the soil itself, the temperature of which should be 7 degrees. It is in such soil that garlic roots still actively grow.

What will happen in late autumn, when the mustard will grow a sufficient green mass?

With the first frosts, it will lie down on the soil, forming a continuous carpet of sedative haulm. Which will hold the snow in the garden, which is especially important in winters with little snow.

In addition, very loose soil will be created on the ridge with garlic, due to the fact that the entire root system of green manure will begin to actively overheat in the spring and the garlic will begin to receive additional nutrition.

And also an impromptu mulch from sederative tops in the spring will save much more natural moisture for garlic development.

It turns out that there is another effective green manure for winter garlic, this is the planting of phacelia, which belongs to the hydrophilic family. In addition to precocity and high performance productivity (for 45 days the plant gains from 200 to 300 kg of biomass per hectare, which is equivalent to the introduction of 250 kg of mullein or compost), phacelia has the most powerful phytosanitary characteristics.

It helps to significantly increase the yield of all crops and facilitate the work of the gardener. An unsuccessfully chosen predecessor is able to minimize the efforts to grow vegetables and berries.

Firstly, representatives of the same plant species choose the same nutrients from the soil, and secondly, they have common diseases and pests. Pathogenic microorganisms and pest larvae accumulate in the ground and worsen the conditions for the development of future plantings.

Sideration of lands for garlic

What to do if the small space of the garden does not allow you to break the garlic bed in another place? There is an answer to this question - green manure planting followed by plowing the biomass into the soil. Winter garlic is harvested in mid-July, and planted before winter -.

The time interval between digging up the bulbs and sowing the bulbs, one-tooth or cloves is quite sufficient for fast-growing and early-ripening green manure plants, for example, mustard, legumes, buckwheat, oats, vetch, alfalfa, clover, etc., not only to gain the required amount of vegetative mass, but also managed to decompose in the soil after incorporation.

And to improve soil fertility for spring varieties of garlic, there is even more time. Under spring garlic beds can be sown with green manure before winter, leaving the accumulated mass of greenery on the surface under the snow. In the future, it remains only to dig up the semi-decomposed plant residues 1-2 weeks before spring sowing.

By sowing green manure before winter garlic, you simultaneously solve several problems at once:

Lupine green manure

The best predecessors for garlic, in addition to green manure, are the following crops:

• nightshade (, eggplant, vegetable pepper);
• pumpkin (squash, pumpkin, zucchini);
• cruciferous (turnip, all types of cabbage, radish);
• legumes (beans, lentils, peas);
• leafy greens (basil, dill, parsley, arugula, sorrel, lettuce, spinach).

And here after root crops, experts do not advise planting garlic, as potatoes, beets, root parsley, parsnips and celery impoverish the soil, taking out large portions of potassium. True, the balance of this mineral can be replenished by adding potassium sulfate, potassium magnesia, potassium nitrate and others mineral fertilizers or by adding vegetable ash or furnace black to the ground during pre-sowing cultivation.

As you can see, the options for observing the rules of crop rotation and the harmonious planting of garlic, even on a small suburban area there are many. Let your garlic plantation please you with stable harvests of juicy and fragrant heads, large and with!