Brick fences. Brick fence - masonry selection features and beautiful design ideas for modern landscape design (100 photos) Photos of fences with brick pillars

Brick has been used in the formation of barriers, capital fences for a very long time. Its reliability is so great that before the invention of reinforced concrete, only brick structures were a serious alternative to natural stone in fortifications. But people's attention to such a decision is caused not only by its undoubted strength, but also by its external attractiveness. Importantly, people can determine for themselves how high the fence they need, and what shape it will be. Ready reinforced concrete slabs, mesh and other such freedom do not give.

Peculiarities

The key advantages of brick fences compared to others can be considered:

• excellent durability;
• attractive appearance;
• the possibility of combining with houses and plots decorated in any style.

The use of facing bricks is recommended when creating decorative masonry. This material is completely ready, does not require additional processing, the variety of its color and texture allows you to realize the most sophisticated design idea.

If you wish, you can complement the brick fence with stone, wood, stylish artistic forging. The latter option is appropriate if you want to create an environment that is outwardly interesting and not too catchy.

A universal fence made of bricks can be easily redone if necessary: if necessary, you can quickly increase its height, lower it, and the design will look just as attractive. Both from the outside and from the side of a private house from the yard, the appearance will be exactly the same. Depending on the wishes of the customers, it is possible to decorate the fence additionally, the masonry is plastered or covered with panels that match the design of the dwelling.

However, even a brick that has not undergone additional decoration looks very good.

Material calculation

Calculating the exact need for a brick is very important, and it is not difficult. If the wall is made single-layer, its square meter is created from 100 blocks, and the double type of masonry requires about 200 bricks in the same area.

Determine the desired height and depth of the barrier; if it is more of a decorative character, construction in ½ brick is acceptable, in which the elements are placed with the elongated side along the allotted line. But if you want to strengthen the defense of your territory, use at least one and a half bricks.

How high the structure should be is determined individually: sizes from 50 to 350 cm are practiced, fences are made higher only occasionally.

Please note that errors in determining the properties of the fence threaten not only technical, but also legal problems. In some cases, it is better to familiarize yourself with the provisions of regulations, building codes and rules. Violating them, for example, in the country, you can get a fine. Or even an order to demolish an illiterate structure.

It is better to protect all summer cottages and garden plots with structures no more than 150 cm high, and exclusively from nets or gratings based on various materials.

An exception can be made only with the general consent of the members of dacha associations, whose assembly has the right to allow impenetrable barriers of no more than 220 cm. These restrictions are due to concern for good lighting of all areas and public roads. If you don’t want to limit yourself to a lattice, you don’t want to break the law at the same time, you can indent in depth so that shading does not actually occur.

Such prohibitions do not apply to individual residential construction at all, except for situations when they operate within the framework of regional law.

If the thickness of the structure is the same, but its shape is different, the material consumption can vary widely. So, on a standard 0.06 ha, you can put a square fence (its perimeter is about 98 m), or it can be triangular - then the total length of the contours will increase to 112 m. adapt to the actual ground configuration.

An accurate calculation is easiest to do, focusing on the data of the cadastral plan, then you do not have to do independent measurements.

When using silicate brick, the dimensions will be the same as when using the standard option.

Important: the concrete must be raised above the ground layer by at least 0.1 m.

Intending to build a fence of Slavic brick, be guided by the dimensions of the products included in the collection you like. Most often they acquire the so-called "normal" size, single (equal to traditional) or "euro" (0.7).

Approximate consumption of raw materials upon receipt of 1 cu. m of concrete in an artisanal way is approximately 3 quintals of cement, 10 quintals of washed sand and gravel. Up to 0.3 cubic meters is consumed per cubic meter of brickwork. m of mortar - this figure already includes probable losses, inevitable even with very professional work.

If it is decided to create a sectional barrier, calculate the need for building blocks and concrete mortar for single sections and pillars, and then multiply the resulting figure by the required number.

Types of masonry

Technologists and builders have developed various types of brickwork, one of the most modern and attractive options is lego system. Compared to using the classic type of blocks, the speed of work increases significantly, and special training is reduced to a minimum. Simply apply the top row to the bottom row in an intuitive way, and then glue it with building glue. Lego bricks are hollow inside, which greatly facilitates their transportation and movement directly on the construction site, reduces the labor intensity of the work.

The use of hyper-pressed material is advisable when even the protection provided by the classic type of masonry is insufficient for you. This is a very strong and stable product, and the manufacturer's compliance with the technology is critical. If it is violated, then cracks and defects will inevitably appear even with the most accurate work, and the service life of the fence will be drastically reduced. As for the increased thermal conductivity, this indicator does not have any significant significance in the construction of fences.

Bavarian masonry brick opens up a number of important possibilities; strictly speaking, this is not so much a special method as a specific material. You can see it in any old building, and not only on German territory, but also in all other European states. The essential feature of the Bavarian approach is that the outer side of the material is painted in a variety of tones, forming unusually attractive patterns. For centuries, no efforts of masters made it possible to create a good monotonous coloring of bricks. And so the disadvantage began to turn into dignity.

What in the past was considered a problem, today has completely turned into a characteristic feature of country or Provence style, a way to emphasize the elegance of the old look of the fence.

Bavarian brick is made according to a specific technology; at the end of its firing, the oxygen concentration in the kiln is increased so that the composition of the clay changes due to chemical reactions. Because the outer layer is colored differently. The vitreous mass in thickness occupies a minimum of 0.2 and a maximum of 0.4 cm. The brick obtained by the South German method, even under the most unfavorable set of circumstances, will not be covered with efflorescence.

The width of the blocks is completely standard, but its appearance has stepped far forward in recent years. The engineers managed to figure out how to make the shape of the streaks very intricate, combining these findings with the creation of smooth or textured surfaces.

Important: the key color covers at least ½ of the entire area, and the remaining two or three tones are randomly distributed as you see fit.

Construction technology

Most often, however, they do not use original design techniques, but quite traditional methods of laying bricks. Diversity is introduced through different geometric structures and individual structural elements. The sectional version of the fence differs from the solid one in that the wall is reinforced with supports located at a distance of 250 - 450 cm.

Since the installation of supports depends on the magnitude of the load exerted, the thinner the barrier created, the less often the poles can be mounted.

Regardless of whether considerations of maximum strength or design are at the forefront, the method of operation is approximately the same. First of all, markup is created, according to which you need to fill the foundation.

Buckets and trowels are other necessary components during operation. The first are hemispheres with wooden handles and are designed to make the distribution of the mortar over the masonry more uniform. Trowels, on the other hand, ensure the leveling of cement, remove its excess at the ends and at the joints, and help saturate the seams with mortar. Careful strokes with the back of the tool's handle allow the bricks to be seated in exactly the places reserved for them.

If the fence is supplemented with columns, the accuracy of their placement and the minimum deviation from a straight line is ensured by controlling the corners with a building level. To chip off a piece of the required size from a brick, professionals advise using a pickaxe.

The evenness of the facade part of the masonry is verified using smooth rails from 120 to 200 cm in length. Using the orders (rulers made of metal or wood, marked with a step equal to the sum of the thickness of the seams and the height of the bricks), you can control the quality of the masonry of a separate tier.

Also, when working, they use a standard cone, coils of twisted cords, a chisel, a chisel.

When bricks are laid in the same direction as the entire masonry as a whole, the corresponding strip is called a spoon, and when perpendicular to it, a bonder.

Important: brick fences cannot be made in ¼ bricks, only ½ and above, otherwise they will not be reliable enough!

Pressing laying requires saturating vertical seams with mortar using a trowel; most often, a similar technique is needed to make full-seam masonry using a viscous mixture. Initially, a mortar layer of 15-20 mm is placed 10-15 mm from the border, and then 0.3 to 0.5 cm of the mixture is taken from the bricks of the previous row and transferred to the sidewalls. Pressing the block tightly with a trowel, the tool is sharply removed, with its help they adjust the location of the element in the vertical and horizontal planes.

The “butt” laying method implies that the cement mortar is taken not with trowels, but directly with the bricks that need to be laid.

For your information: when working with pillars that will be complemented by a gate or gate, the reinforcement inside the structure must be brought almost to the very top. If no additional elements need to be held, you can indent 0.4-0.5 m from the top, there is no risk in that.

In some cases, facade paints, whitewash or plaster are applied to the fences; Quite widely there are options with the installation of visors and canopies.

In cases where you cannot make a full-fledged brick fence (due to lack of funds), you can resort to its imitation - full or partial. Such structures are made of high-class polypropylene, are resistant to the destructive action of the external environment and at the same time are safe in ecological and sanitary terms. Additionally, the quality of special panels can be improved by applying paint to them, which suppresses peeling, fading, and slows down the loss of strength.

Important: the optimal choice of the type of material requires taking into account the weather conditions and soil properties in a particular area.

You can learn more about such structures and how to mount them in the following video.

Decor

Brick in combination with forging is perceived very chic; you can use it either as a decorative piece or as a functional part of the design. You can vary the configuration and size of forged blocks, arrange them in an original way.

With a parapet scheme, forged rods and other decorating elements are placed on an inseparable layer of brick.

Important: their height above the upper edge of the fence should not exceed 50 cm. Such a solution is outwardly attractive and, in addition, reliably stops most unprepared intruders.

If a plinth (0.3-1.5 m) is exposed above the main part of the bricks, very diverse forged blocks are also mounted on top of it. A characteristic feature of this approach is that the fence is transparent.

You can choose a third way, in which brick pillars are combined with forged structures. It is forging in this version that accounts for the bulk of the length, and bricks can only be seen in pillars or columns. And even the pillars themselves, the columns inside can have reinforcement, which increases their mechanical resistance.

Brickwork can be complemented not only by a figured forged element, but also by wood; keep in mind that its presence does not always mean an opportunity to save money. Most often, such a step is taken, wanting to use a tree that is not needed for other purposes and at the same time create a spectacular, laconic architectural ensemble.

However, even if you limit yourself to only one brick, you can also achieve a very interesting result. Color solutions are quite diverse, and such a huge choice confuses many novice experimenters. Often they try to reproduce the appearance of the facade covering in the house, for example, using shades of red with orange inclusions. Experiments with brown, yellow, and white bricks are also widespread.

Wine tonality (marsala) is perceived very attractively, it is especially good to use such fences as accent elements. It makes sense to use a gray palette in areas designed in a modern or urban style; This coloring is perfectly combined with the abundant use of concrete.

When choosing a combination in a country house, in a country house, focus on the color scheme of the garden path and playground; in this case, it will be possible to use not just a different color for decorating the facade of the dwelling, but also a completely different material.

From ordinary and clinker bricks, you can build a "perforated" fence, built in a checkerboard pattern. Through the gaps you can observe the courtyard and the street, the strength of the structure is somewhat reduced, but this is not so significant.

In addition to the options listed, you can decorate the fence with ordinary plants, imitations, stained glass and ceramics.

Returning to the topic of clinker, it is worth emphasizing that it not only looks very elegant, but also absorbs water very little and does not crumble for as long as possible. A fence made of it will last a long time, and a block can be very diverse in appearance - corrugated, rough, completely smooth. Clinker fencing looks optimal both in ultra-modern villas and in imitations of old estates, it is even possible to lay out the walls of a house from it at the same time.

Eurogib specialists constantly have to travel to construction sites for measurement and installation. When ordering caps for fence posts, we often encounter mistakes that even experienced masons make when building brick pillars. The laying of fence posts has its own characteristics and differences from the laying of the walls of houses or stoves. In this article we want to highlight the basic principles of building brick fences.

The foundation for a brick fence is a very important thing. The more massive the fence, the more reliable the foundation under it should be. Particular attention must be paid to the foundation for those elements of the fence on which the gate will be installed.

The bearing capacity of the soil is of great importance when choosing a foundation design. For example, it can be a strip foundation, in which bored piles are located in the center, and a metal pipe is laid in each of them, but the choice of the type of foundation for brick pillars depends on what material the filling will be from, as well as on the type of soil. If the span of the fence will be made of light material (corrugated board, wood), you can make a pile foundation for each pillar. The depth of the pile depends on the type of soil and the height of the groundwater. If the soils belong to the category of heaving (clay or loam) with high groundwater, the level of the bottom of the foundation should be located 15-20 cm below the freezing depth of the soil. On well-drained soils (sands and sandy loams), it is enough to lay the bottom of the foundation at a depth of up to 80 cm.

Here is one of the options for making a pile foundation for a brick pillar: we drill a hole of the required depth (diameter 25-35 cm), put a bucket or two rubble on the bottom, compact it in one of the possible ways. We install formwork inside the hole (usually a roofing material rolled up in two or three layers). We put a pipe inside the formwork, around which we will later lay the column. The length of the pipe consists of two quantities: from the part that is walled up in concrete and the part that will rise above the level of the top of the foundation. Moreover, the upper section of the pipe is not at all necessary in this case should be up to the very top of the column. It can rise only by 40-50 cm. The exception is the pillars on which the gate and / or gate will be hung. Here the internal reinforcement should be almost to the very top.

If the fence is planned to be completely brick or there are large wind loads in the region, most likely you will need to make a full-fledged strip foundation. Another option is piles connected with a shallow tape.

Most often, brick pillars are made 2-3 meters high. But the designs may be different, it all depends on the estimated height of the fence itself. Accordingly, the higher the pillar, the stronger it is necessary to make the foundation.

The technology by which bricks are laid for fence posts is exactly the same as for load-bearing structures, however, they will not perform the function of a support and their ability to carry large vertical loads is completely unimportant.

The design of the pole on which the gate or gate will be attached may look something like this:

The design of intermediate pillars to support the spans can be reinforced a little weaker, but the reinforcement of the pillars must be done:

The distance between the pillars of a brick fence can be from 2 to 8 meters. It depends on many circumstances and conditions:

• the amount of financial resources intended for the construction of the fence;
• the dimensions of the filler material (length of the span of a profiled sheet or wooden picket fence) during the construction of a combined fence;
• load forces on the pillars.

Do not erect poles too infrequently, as this will greatly affect the quality of the fence and its service life. And besides, it looks less attractive. The most optimal distance between the posts is 2.5 - 4 m. Measure the distance between the posts of the gate and the gate very carefully so that you do not have to adjust anything later. Ideally, when the dimensions of the gate and gate are known before the construction of a brick fence. This way you can avoid many problems associated with subsequent fitting.

The span filler is attached to the poles only after they have settled for some time. This usually takes 2-3 weeks.

How to choose a brick for the fence?

The simplest is ordinary ceramic brick. May be solid or hollow. In the first case, among the advantages is strength, among the disadvantages is a lot of weight. The second option is the opposite.

Another of the advantages is cheapness, paired with it is a disadvantage - an unpresentable appearance. Usually a simple brick is used if the post will later have an exterior finish.

Another option is clinker brick. Beautiful, durable, practically does not crumble. It captivates with a variety of textures, colors and the ability of clinker to harmonize with buildings made in both classical and modern styles. Of course, it will cost more than its simple clay counterpart.

The next option is silicate brick - very durable, frost-resistant, has excellent noise-absorbing qualities, environmentally friendly and, of course, not cheap.

Most often, fence posts are made of the same brick as the house itself. But combinations are possible:

Brick size standard red: width - 120, length - 250, height 65 mm. This ratio is considered optimal if you alternate the longitudinal and transverse placement of single bricks in the masonry.

One and a half. Construction does not stand still, and new sizes of bricks have appeared, in particular, one and a half. The width of such a brick is 120, the length is 250, and the height is 88 mm. To lighten the weight of the masonry, a special technique was also developed, solid bricks alternated with porous, hollow and perforated ones.

Double. A brick of this type is practically never found in solid form; it is made in a perforated form to lighten the weight of the masonry. Brick size: width - 120, length - 250, height - 103 mm.

Euro- 250x85x65 mm, reduction in GOST 0.7 NF;

Single Modular- 288x138x65 mm, reduction in GOST 1.3 NF.

Type of brick	Standard sizes, mm	Weight, kg
Ceramic facing brick	250*120*65 250*120*65 250*85*65(Euro)	2.3; 2.6-2.7 (hollow) 3.6-3.7 (hollow) 2.1-2.2 (hollow)
Brick facing ceramic thickened	250*120*88 250*85*88 (Euro)	3.2; 3.6-3.7 (hollow) 3.0-3.1 (hollow)
Brick clinker facing	250*120*65 250*90*65 250*60*65	4.2 (full-bodied) 2.2 (hollow) 1.7 (hollow)
Clinker facing brick (long)	528*108*37	3,75
Hyperpress brick (non-firing) solid smooth	250*120*65 250*90*65 250*60*65	4,2 2,0 4,0
Hyper-pressed (non-fired) brick, solid, smooth, thickened	250*120*88	6,0
Brick ceramic handmade	188*88*63	1,9

brick pillar masonry

In most cases, fence posts are made in 1.5 or 2 bricks, section 380 * 380 mm and 510 * 510 mm, respectively, up to 3 meters high.

It is best to perform masonry around a metal pipe, the base of which is concreted into the base of the foundation. The presence of long metal pipes (in the entire height of the column) is mandatory for the pillars on which the gate is attached, for the rest, you can lay the pipes shorter so that the elevation above the upper part of the foundation is 300-500 mm, and then you can weld several rods with a diameter of 10 mm or more , but for the pillars that are the support of the gate, this option is unacceptable.

For at least 3 lower rows, you need to use a solid brick. For the remaining rows, a hollow facing is also suitable, but in this case the solution should not be too liquid, otherwise it will fall into the cracks of the brick.

The masonry is carried out with dressing (displacement) - the seam of the bottom row is blocked by the "body" of the brick lying on top. The seam is standard - 8-10 mm. The layout of the columns in the photo:

Ceramic brick absorbs moisture very quickly, so if you hesitate a little, it will be difficult for you to “put” it in place. In order for the mortar to retain plasticity longer, the brick is dipped in water for a few seconds before laying. The same maneuver makes it easier to remove excess mortar from the masonry surface (it is removed immediately with a dry cloth). This method of laying pillars has long been proven, but for beginners, with independent execution, it will be difficult to withstand an even seam. It will be much more convenient and faster to work if you use laying under a bar: a metal bar with a side of 8-10 mm is cut into pieces (10-15 cm longer than the dimensions of the column).

Having laid the first row, a bar is laid out on it along the edge of the brick. The site is filled with a solution with a small margin, and the layer is made larger closer to the pipe. Further, leading the trowel along the bar, remove the excess, cleaning the bar from the solution. But at the same time, the slope of the solution is preserved. They put a brick, align it in level. At the same time, the bar does not allow it to settle much, and the position of the other end is controlled by the level.

Then they take a short piece of the bar about 10 cm (for a vertical seam), put it along the end surface, apply the mortar on the side of the laid brick with a trowel, also removing the excess along the bar. Put and level the next brick. After the brick is set to the required position, the seam is pressed from above with a trowel, and the vertical bar is removed.

Other problems that can arise when laying poles with your own hands are resizing or "twisting" them. Both defects occur due to insufficient control of the vertical position of the stacked bricks.

When laying pillars on your own, very often the upper rows become much wider than the lower ones. This happens gradually, a millimeter or even less is added, but in almost every row. As a result, at a height of 2 m, the column width may be 400 mm or more, instead of the planned 380 mm. Avoiding this error is to control the size of each row. Control only by building level is not enough. A household tool (yellow) is mainly used, and it has a rather large error. And if the level has a length of 60-80 cm, you simply will not see slight vertical deviations. Therefore, they additionally use a tape measure - checking each row in size, or you can make a template in size (for example, from even planks) with which to check for possible deviations.

Self-laying of pillars without experience in such work can lead to another mistake: the faces of the pillar can shift, while the pillar “twishes” around its axis - try to attach spans to such pillars. Therefore, when laying each row, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the corners are located strictly one above the other. To facilitate the task, you can use two corners screwed to opposite corners. They are temporarily attached to the lower rows (with bolts or self-tapping screws in the seam) and then used as a guideline, placing the bricks strictly in the corner.

And, finally, another fairly common mistake of inexperienced craftsmen is the lack of mortgages for fastening gates, gates and fence sections. The result of forgetfulness is a very even and beautiful, but completely smooth post, to which it is not possible to attach anything. See below for how to avoid this kind of problem.

The type of mortgages depends on what the fence sections will be made of in the future. If it is brickwork, then the role of mortgages is to connect the pillars and sections into one whole. Since there will be no special weight load on them, it is enough to use 8 mm thick wire loops laid in every fourth row on the side of the pole to which the sections will be attached.

If the sections are made of a profiled sheet or a wooden beam, that is, they will be attached only to the poles, stronger mortgages are needed that can withstand their weight and additional loads that arise. In this case, metal plates are used that are welded at a certain height (or mounted in any other way) to the base post or armored frame, and in the brick with the help of a grinder, a cut is made in the right place.

In the future, purlins will be welded to the mortgages, and corrugated board, metal rods or other elements will be mounted on them.

Pillars made of facing bricks must be treated with a special impregnation, which will cover it with a film and will serve as protection against the appearance of efflorescence (whitish stains), and subsequent destruction.

Everything is ready? Do not rush to immediately fix the fence sections - the poles should stand for about three weeks, otherwise you can easily ruin all the work done earlier.

About tops (caps) and fence parapets

Caps for protecting masonry brick supports of fences

Here it is, your first DIY brick pillar. It is perfectly even, with seams of the same width, made according to all the rules - a feast for the eyes! In order for the pillar to remain so for many years, the final touch is necessary - the top (cap). The intake hood performs several functions at once:

1. Protects the brick from excessive moisture, which, when frozen, will destroy it.
2. Protects concrete and metal base pipes located in the middle of the column. If they are not protected, then during the rains the concrete will gradually crumble, and the water, accumulating in the formed depressions, will sooner or later reach the metal base.
3. And, finally, the top gives the pillar a more attractive, finished look, being its decoration.

For brick pillars, metal caps are usually used, the size of which is selected so that they protrude several centimeters beyond the boundaries of the pillar. When choosing them, give preference to products without rivets, with well-crafted tight joints that can provide reliable protection. In addition, the following requirements apply:

• resistance to precipitation;
• a sufficient angle of inclination that prevents the accumulation of moisture;
• the possibility of reliable and accurate fastening to the pole;
• ventilation to prevent condensation.

If the spans between the pillars are also made of brick or concrete, then the top of the wall must be protected with special ones.

All metal elements of a brick fence can be ordered from us - send a request to

When arranging a suburban area, it is necessary to ensure the safety of property and people living in the house. To do this, a reliable fence is being built. Not only its strength and durability are important, but also the correct installation of the posts under the fence.

Installation of poles from various materials

When deciding which fence posts to use, it is necessary to focus on two main parameters - the resistance of the structure to external weather conditions and its overall strength. But we should not forget about another parameter - the complexity of the installation procedure itself.

Installation of wooden poles

Made from solid logs, such poles will be quite expensive, especially if they are high-quality hardwood samples. Pine, mulberry, oak and larch have the best properties in terms of resistance to natural factors and the effects of mold and fungi.

Pine and fir are also used in the production of pillars. But birch, aspen, beech or alder are not used. In addition, before installation, wooden poles must be treated with an antiseptic and burned to the charring stage. It is advisable to use such supports for wooden fences.

If you decide to use wooden supports, then you need to choose them with a diameter of at least 150 mm, for an intermediate installation you can take 100 mm.

They are treated with a solution of copper sulfate or other antiseptic, and the lower edge is treated with resin, followed by coating with roofing material. Oil painting will also be useful. And you need to install with the orientation of the top down.

Pits are drilled with a diameter that is twice the size of the support. At a ground height of 1.5 m, the depth should be at least 0.5 m. Remember, for strength, you need to deepen at least a third of the length of the entire support.

Before installing the post, you should equip a drainage cushion from a layer of crushed stone or expanded clay. After a strictly vertical installation, the pit is covered with rubble and fragments of bricks. In the process of work, mandatory tamping is carried out.

The strength of the fastening can be ensured by the use of metal sleeves with a diameter smaller than the size of the column. A wooden log is inserted into a metal tube.

Metal constructions

Such supports are not only distinguished by versatility, applicability for various types of fence, but also by high strength. This is a durable material, but pipes must be treated with anti-corrosion agents. Regular staining is also required.

There are two types of supports:

• hollow welded round shape;
• from a metal profile with a square section.

The optimal diameter of the pillars will be 60 mm with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. The strength of the material ensures the resistance of the fence to loads of various types, including wind. For installation, concreting methods are used, or the supports are driven into the ground.

It is advisable to install fence posts by concreting in areas with sandy soil, and also if the soil is prone to heaving. Two technologies are used:

• a hole is drilled with a size slightly larger than the diameter of the support, then a pole is placed, and the gap between it and the walls of the pit is filled with concrete;
• after drilling the hole, concrete is placed in it, and only then the support is placed vertically, providing a stronger fixation.

If the site has heavy dense soil or you plan to use a fairly light fence structure, then you can use the technology of driving in supports.

The holes must be drilled first. But their diameter should be less than the size of the pillars. Then, with a sledgehammer, the supports are driven into the holes.

The skew can be eliminated with sledgehammer blows. To simplify the installation procedure, you can use poles with a helical spiral to be screwed into the ground.

Asbestos-cement and concrete fasteners

Asbestos-cement supports are a durable, but expensive option for arranging fences. Moreover, if water enters the empty space of the pipes, then there is a risk of rupture. Also, this material is not used with all types of fences.

The concrete structure will be very heavy, but these supports are strong, reliable and durable, as they are not affected by most environmental factors. Due to their weight and high price, they are rarely used - mainly for very massive structures.

Asbestos-cement pipes, as a rule, are taken with a diameter of 120 mm. For a two-meter column, a depth of at least 800 mm is required. The lower part of the pit must be made with an extension, which must first be filled with concrete. Roofing material is used to insulate the walls. Moreover, the insulating material should protrude outward by 150-200 mm.

Around the ground part of the roofing material, a formwork made of wood is equipped, and then the pit begins to be poured with concrete. A bracket in the form of a metal rod is inserted into the solution until it solidifies completely.

The length of the pin must be less than the length of the support. An asbestos-cement pipe is vertically strung on it, and the cavity inside is filled with a concrete solution. At the top, they make a rounded hat-roof for draining water.

Installation of brick pillars

This is an outwardly attractive design, but installation requires strict adherence to technology. Be sure to equip the foundation for the load.

To install fence posts with your own hands, you need to lay a tape-type foundation. To do this, they dig a trench, and brick fragments are placed in it. Concrete is poured on top.

For a pillar in the place of its subsequent installation, a frame is arranged in the form of reinforcement from metal rods or pipes. Roofing material is laid on top of the foundation. Brickwork is carried out around the frame. The inner cavity must be filled with concrete.

Along the perimeter of the future fence, it is necessary to install stakes in place of the supports and pull the rope. The placement of the pegs must be strictly aligned. The distance between the pillars is up to 3 m, and for heavy structures no more than 2.5 m. For extreme, corner supports, pipes of a larger diameter are selected. So you will ensure the stability of the structure before the load.

First you need to sequentially install the corner posts, check their compliance in height with a level. From below and from above, twine is pulled between the posts. It will help you evenly place the intermediate supports.

More complex installation will be with a height difference in the area of ​​​​more than 250 mm. In this case, it is necessary to install additional supports and equip a stepped structure. In places of fencing where it is planned to install a gate or gate, it is necessary to install additional poles for greater reliability.

Checking the structure vertically is carried out by the level without fail. So you get the right fence, as shown in the photo of the fence posts. The fastening of the fence itself must begin no earlier than 3-5 days from the moment of concreting.

Particularly dangerous are areas with heaving soil or high water levels. In this case, it is possible for the supports to be pushed out of the soil over time, or their putrefactive and corrosive destruction.

If you are faced with a groundwater problem, then you need to dig a trench or drill a hole deeper, i.e. below the water level. In this case, you will need to prepare a much larger volume of solution.

Experts also recommend building a high-quality drainage cushion. Crushed stone with expanded clay with a layer of at least 200 mm is laid in the pits. Then a pillar is placed, and the gap in the pit is covered with gravel. But not completely, but with a shortage of 150 mm. Concrete is poured on top of the pillow to ground level.

You can install a fence on the territory of a country house yourself. To do this, you need to choose supports that match the material of the fence, and then install them, guided by our simple instructions.

Photo of fence posts

Brick fences are the most durable, reliable and durable fences. They not only protect personal plots from intruders and prying eyes, but also prevent the penetration of strong winds.

A brick fence erected in accordance with all the rules will withstand any temperature changes. Structures are not afraid of precipitation and groundwater.

Impressive fences testify to the high status of the owners of the plots. The exterior of the structures speaks of solidity and prosperity. Brick fences are able to decorate any territory. Structures are often found not only near large mansions, but also near administrative buildings.

In this article, we will consider in detail the process of erecting brick fences, tell you what tools and materials will be required and what should be taken into account when carrying out construction work.

Photo #1: brick fence

The choice of brick for the fence

The choice of brick for the fence depends on:

• climatic conditions of a particular area;
• soil characteristics in the area.

In addition, the material must be in harmony with the architectural style of the building and be combined with the landscape design of the land.

When building brick fences, various blocks can be used:

• ceramic, they are produced by firing clay;
• silicate, are made by pressing sand, water and lime, followed by heat treatment.

Depending on the specific application, the above materials are divided into:

• construction (serve for the construction of foundations, walls and ceilings);
• facing (used both for decoration and for the manufacture of basic structural elements).

Blocks of the latter type are ideal for building beautiful and durable brick fences. Modern facing materials:

• durable and reliable;
• frost-resistant;
• available in various colors;
• differ in variety of sizes and shapes.

Photo No. 2: facing brick fence

With the help of such blocks (clinker, torn, "bassoon", etc.), it is possible to build unique brick fences with broken geometry of pillars and walls. The combination of colors in the masonry process allows you to create original patterns and interesting ornaments.

Drawing No. 1: popular ornaments

Ceramic brick is suitable for the construction of all fencing elements. Material:

• strong and durable (especially the full-bodied variety);
• moisture resistant, this factor determines the suitability of ceramic bricks for the construction of foundations and plinths;
• environmentally safe.

Silicate blocks are cheaper, but they have a lower moisture resistance. For the construction of foundations and plinths, such bricks are not recommended. Their advantage includes maximum frost resistance and increased strength.

In the process of designing a brick fence, the height and thickness of the structure should be determined.

• If the fence will perform only a decorative function, then you can get by with half-brick masonry. Blocks are placed with a long edge along the fence line. When building in a whole brick, the elements are installed across the fence.
• The construction of fences for protection involves the use of masonry of at least 1.5 bricks.

Figure number 2: types of masonry

Brick fences from 0.5 to 1 m high can be suitable for decorative delineation of territories. Protecting sites involves the construction of larger fences. The optimal height is 3-3.5 m.

To obtain stable and rigid structures, brick fences are not built in solid masonry. Poles are installed along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 2.5 to 6 m from each other with the simultaneous erection of piers.

The choice of the spacing of vertical supports depends on the thickness and height of the walls. In places where gates and gates are installed, poles are also laid without fail.

Figure No. 3: pillar scheme

After determining the characteristics of a brick fence, an accurate drawing should be prepared indicating the dimensions of all its elements (pillars, intermediate sections, gates, gates, etc.). Without a project, it will not be possible to correctly calculate the amount of materials.

Calculation of a brick fence

The correct calculation of the brick fence will allow you to perform the table below.

Table No. 1: material consumption

The calculation of the amount of cement and sand required for the construction of a brick fence can be approached not so scrupulously. Additional purchase of these components will pass without problems. When mixing solutions, the following proportions are used:

Table number 2: proportions of solutions

Materials and tools necessary for the construction of brick fences

The main materials of a brick fence are blocks, cement and sand. In addition to them, you will need:

• crushed stone of fine fraction (5-20 mm);
• water;
• poles (optimally fit profiled pipes 60 * 60 mm) with plugs;
• sheets of plywood or boards (for formwork);
• pegs (for marking);
• reinforcing mesh (to increase the reliability of the structure).

In addition, you need to buy bitumen-based roofing material (for waterproofing).

When building brick fences, you can not do without:

• containers with a shovel for mixing concrete or an electric mixer;
• ropes;
• fittings;
• grinders;
• level;
• square;
• roulettes;
• buckets;
• trowel.

To protect the fence from atmospheric precipitation, care should be taken to purchase caps and visors. Installation of additional structures (gates, gates, etc.) requires expanding the basic set of tools and materials.

Do-it-yourself brick fence construction

Building a brick fence with your own hands is a long and laborious process that requires the knowledge and skills of a bricklayer, as well as accurate calculations. One person may not even have enough season (spring - autumn) to erect such a fence.

If you are not confident in your abilities, contact a reliable company. Professionals will correctly calculate the amount of materials, take into account all the features of the site and erect a brick fence that will last for decades without the need for maintenance and repair.

You do not have to waste your own time and effort, as well as attract loved ones or unverified assistants. A team of specialists will do everything as quickly and efficiently as possible.

If you still want to install a brick fence yourself, read the instructions below.

Stages of building a brick fence

1. Marking the site for a brick fence

Pegs are driven in at the corners of the future fence and along the walls. The rope is pulled. Places of installation of pillars, gates and gates are marked.

The corners must be strictly straight. The correctness of the markup is carefully verified with a square.

2. Building a foundation for a brick fence

• A trench is dug 700-800 mm deep. Its width should be 20 cm more than the planned width of the foundation. Layers of sand (1 cm) and crushed stone (1 cm) are poured to the bottom.
• Holes are being prepared for the installation of poles. Formwork and reinforcing cage are being constructed. Poles with plugs are installed.

Photo No. 3: building the foundation

• A trench is dug for a blind area. Depth - 150 mm, width - 500 mm. The bottom is covered with a layer of rubble. Reinforcement is supplied.
• The solution is mixed, the foundation and threshold are poured.

You need to make sure that the poles are strictly vertical. This will avoid problems when erecting a brick fence.

3. Laying a brick fence

Before laying the brick fence, the frozen foundation for waterproofing is covered with a layer of bitumen-based roofing material.

For the construction of the most reliable fence, a single integral structure of supports and plinths should be gradually erected. If you first install the pillars, and after them - the walls, you get a less durable structure.

Photo number 4: the correct erection of the fence

Consider the process of laying a brick fence in more detail.

The sequence of laying a brick fence

Here is the sequence of laying a standard brick fence. The pillars are stacked in 1.5 bricks, the plinths - in 1, and the main parts of the walls - in half a brick.

The construction process takes place in several stages.

1. Layout check. The first row of the future fence is placed on the surface of the foundation covered with roofing material without applying a solution. This is done in order to once again make sure that the supports are installed correctly.
2. Formation of pillars. Profiled pipes are lined to a height of 3 bricks. Between the first and second rows, a reinforced mesh is placed according to the size of the future support.
3. Plinth installation. The bases of the walls are also laid to a height of 3 bricks.
4. Bundle of pillars and plinths. In the process of erecting the fourth row of a brick fence, a reinforced mesh is embedded in the solution. It should go beyond the boundaries of the pillars by 2.5 bricks.
5. Simultaneous laying of supports and walls (already half a brick). Fencing elements are erected with reinforcement every three rows.

Photo No. 5: installation of the wall

Upon completion of laying, protective caps and visors are put on the brick fence.

Photo No. 6: metal structures protect the fence from precipitation

To secure your house adjoining area, everyone tries to build a strong and reliable fence. One of the most reliable types of fence is rightfully considered.

When installing a brick fence, everyone has the right to independently choose the thickness, height and even the shape of the fence. Such material cannot be considered the most affordable on the market, however, properly laid brick will make the fence almost impenetrable. The advantages of a brick fence are as follows:

• Included in a number of the most reliable fences.
• The ability to choose the height yourself.
• Very durable.
• Looks solid and attractive.
• Allows you to lay out decorative masonry with patterns and different shapes.
• Thanks to the possibility of transformation, it fits any style of the site and the house.

beautiful fences

Very often, a classic version of red masonry is chosen for the fence. But in some cases, decorative masonry is chosen to emphasize the appearance of the house and the site.

For decorative masonry, facing bricks are used. It is very convenient to work with him. It does not need to be further processed, it is presented in different types of colors and textures.

Due to the spread of decorative masonry in the modern market, facing bricks have gained wide popularity. Masonry can be diluted with various patterns and colors. Sometimes wooden additions are used to make the design light.

From brick and forging

Such types of fences are called combined. in combination with brick adds sophistication to the fence. Each fence differs from others in its individuality. It is artistic forging that makes an object memorable. In combination with a brick, whether facing or classic, forging looks interesting and at the same time restrained.

Due to the special properties of the brick, you can safely lay out a beautiful figure from it, subsequently filling it with an original decorative pattern. This creative approach speaks of excellent aristocratic taste. It looks especially harmonious when the house is built from the same type of brick. For large areas, a metal mono fence with brick pillars is most suitable. So, a beautiful landscape will be available for the gaze.

Fences made of brick and metal picket fence

This type of site fencing is considered more budgetary. But, despite this, in combination with durable brick, it has advantages over many other types of fences.

1. Metal fence will last much longer than wood.
2. Fences may not block the view of the site completely, and at the same time hide most of it from view.
3. The coating can be matched to the color scheme of the brick or house.
4. The price of metal picket fences will especially please those who decide to save money.
5. It is impossible to scratch on the edges of the parts, as they are specially processed.
6. Do not require care.

Simple brick options

By installing a solid classic brick fence, you can be completely calm. With a high fence, you can not worry about the weather and many other factors. Despite the fact that the modern market represents a lot of building materials of a new generation, brick is confidently in high positions.

When erecting such a fence, all requirements must be strictly observed. Then it will not only stand idle for a long time, but will always maintain an aesthetic appearance, despite numerous mechanical influences.

Not everyone can afford brick for a fence. However, all costs are more than paid off later. Classic masonry does not need to be painted or constantly restored, facing bricks also do not require special care. But all technologies during its installation must be taken into account and observed.

From crushed brick

The purpose of the crushed brick is rather decorative. Recently, it has been especially often used for the construction of fences. At the same time, the fences are no less strong and durable.

The style of such a building is close to traditional. It must be remembered that the weight of the structure will be reduced due to the fact that the thickness of the bricks is not complete, but stability and strength are fully preserved.

Chipped brick also allows you to create various unusual forms of fencing. And different shapes and colors of bricks give the structure an elegant look that is in harmony with the site.

From brick and corrugated board

Fences made of brick pillars and corrugated board stand out among others. Such a combined type of fencing combines both a low price and solidity.

Profiled sheeting is attractive because, despite the low price, it is easy to install, easy to operate and durable. Brick columns between sheets of corrugated board can be different in width, height, colors are not limited. All this is usually installed on a solid brick foundation, which is combined in color with the pillars.

Red brick

Red brick in buildings shows classics, solidity and high status. This is especially true for fences. High fences made of red brick will conquer anyone with their impregnability.

Many people prefer solid classic masonry, which will protect both from sight and from prying hands. Some are decorated with various patterns. Someone is trying to give the structure a more creative look. But everyone who chooses a red brick undoubtedly has a good taste and sense of style.

From lego bricks

This type of brick is in many ways reminiscent of the details of a children's Lego constructor. The structure of the brick allows you to install the fence much faster. And this does not require any serious preparation.

All you have to do is connect the pieces of the top row to the pieces of the bottom row, and then glue everything together with a special construction adhesive. This brick is made from a mixture of limestone and cement. As a result, there is absolutely no need for firing.

Lego brick lends itself perfectly to laying, both with your own hands and in the hands of professionals. The speed of laying such material is significantly increased, which allows you to complete the work as soon as possible. In addition, there is no need for a centimeter layer of mortar between the bricks. All thanks to the ideal geometric shape of the material.

Due to the fact that this material is hollow inside, its weight is much less. This allows you to reduce transport costs. Such a brick also has many color textures, which allows you to be creative in the process.

At the same time, the fence looks quite solid. By installing it, you can save on building materials (such as sand and cement) and labor. Moreover, this will not affect the overall appearance of the fence.

From facing brick

The use of a facing fence when building a fence can be an excellent solution when creating your own garden. Such a brick looks a little weathered and worn. It looks more like a stone. Due to which you can give the fence a rather interesting look.

A small facing brick fence will add originality to the garden, help separate residential and non-residential premises, increase the attractiveness and functionality of the house.

To make the fence look even more original, you can diversify the brickwork with various inserts. For example, you can take bricks of different colors or add forged steel elements.

from yellow brick

Brick is not only red, classic color. The yellow brick fence looks quite harmonious. First, it makes the fence unusual. Secondly, yellow brick is better combined with various decorative elements.

Also, yellow brick will look good if you dilute it with dark colors. This will give it a slightly aristocratic look.

In addition, if you let various climbing plants along the fence, then they will look better on a yellow background than on a red one.

From torn brick

An excellent replacement for a classic brick today can be a torn brick. Its use can open up almost limitless possibilities for the creativity of designers. This material is perfect for both interior and exterior cladding.

It is an incredibly strong and durable material. Torn brick is distinguished by its diversity. Usually the colors of the material are selected individually for the house or the landscape design of the entire site. Although the construction of such a fence is quite expensive, it is worth it.

A selection of ideas on video

A collection of beautiful brick fences from the VISIT TV channel.