Decorative plaster for interior wall decoration. Decorative plaster: preparation, preparation, methods of work, varieties

Plastering is the final stage of covering the walls outside the building, and inside to decorate the colorful interior. Finishing plaster indoors is carried out in order to level the walls and prepare them for painting, or decorating with wallpaper.

But, you can achieve an excellent effect without wallpapering, by creating a different type of relief surface, and using a variety of plastering techniques. The surface of the walls is modeled by giving different textures, while the plaster has not yet hardened - such work must be done quickly enough and have sufficient experience in plastering.

Plaster is translated from Italian as gypsum, and it consists of such basic components as sand, lime and cement. However, for a stronger decorative effect, various granules and bulk substances in the form of stone chips, shells, pieces of mica and wood fibers are added to the plaster mixture. In addition to the colorful effect, interspersed with an additional perspective volume.

At the base of mineral-based plaster is lime, to which particles of other inclusions are added, such as clay, marble and granite chips. Such a composition only helps to strengthen its strength over time, but at the same time to pass steam through its surface, in order to avoid the appearance of dampness in the house. Such plaster is resistant to sunlight, but has excessive bulkiness and little ability to structural changes.

For polymer plaster, plastic and durable acrylic resins become a link, which makes it possible to mask the surface of the wall and give it new tactile and visual characteristics. A persistent illusion is created that the wall is lined with one of the types of polished stone, or it looks and feels like a suede coating, or is no different from genuine leather. In addition to such an optical illusion, such plaster is resistant to temperature fluctuations, repels water and resists well to sunlight. The only drawback of plaster from modern polymer compounds is that it does not pass steam well, which contributes to the manifestation of dampness in rooms.

Silicone resin is the basis of silicone plaster, which perfectly resists various destructive factors. It is hydrophobic, does not let steam through its surface, and has a wide range of colors. The increased plasticity of silicone plaster allows it to be widely used to create relief patterns of any texture and complexity.

Silicate plaster is based on liquid glass - it also easily takes any shape, is resistant to pollution, but is already capable of passing steam. Silicate plaster has good fire resistance and repels moisture. But brag wide choice color shades it cannot - it is produced in the form of a dry mixture with the addition of various colors.

All types of decorative plaster with names can take on a rough texture, but the surface of the wall is sometimes leveled and processed to give a discreet glossy sheen. But, relief plaster with a variety of expressive effects has a special effect in the interior. Types of decorative plaster according to the type of inclusions are divided into:

• textured and structural, which have a relief rough surface;
• Venetian, which belongs to the almost smooth type of plaster, but looks just great.

All types of plaster mixtures belong to an environmentally friendly type of materials and are considered reliable and high-strength.

Other types of decorative plaster photos with names, in addition to the connecting link, are interspersed with threads of flax, wood and crumbs of "granite and marble". Small decorative stones are also used. This coating achieves the elimination of wall protrusions and all types of surface irregularities - it is also not necessary to carry out preliminary training plastered walls. It is enough just to take care of removing residues from the walls that can peel off and dry them well. This type of plaster has a high viscosity, and its additional components are flax fibers, pieces of wood material, fragments of mica, marble and granite chips.

Such plaster is well able to decorate brick, concrete and wooden surfaces- Suitable for interior decorating. Before applying the plaster, the walls are primed with a deeply penetrating composition - for processing concrete walls a special composition is applied, which contributes to the best adhesion of the plaster layer to the wall.

The layer of textured plaster is quite hard and does not allow moisture to pass through, but air passes through such a coating freely. A layer of plaster can imitate natural stone, leather or wood coating. Textured plaster belongs to the types of the most popular decorative coatings, and is affordable.

The composition for the preparation of the solution is available in bags weighing 9, 18 and 50 kg in a dry, ready-to-dilution form. The average dry mix consumption is about 2 kilograms per square meter of wall. The dye may be in the driest mixture itself, or the wall may be painted after the plaster layer has cured. It is not recommended to perform outdoor work in rainy weather, and at temperatures up to 7 degrees Celsius. You can produce textured work with a simple set of plastering tools - if professionals were not involved in the work, there are many options for designing walls in your own design.

With the help of relief plaster, various relief patterns are formed on the wall. It:

• “lamb”, which imitates the wool of this animal - for such a coating, stone grains of various sizes are introduced into the dry plaster mixture and the coating gets a grainy and uneven surface;
• "fur coat" is also a rough surface with a fleecy structure, based on a cement plaster composition;
• "Kored" is a plaster filled with small pebbles - such a surface resembles the wood of a tree that has been gnawed by a bark beetle.

A similar texture in the form of vertical grooves looks very impressive.

Thin-layer plaster is created on the basis of acrylic or silicate, and marble chips and quartz elements are used as a composite component. The dry mixture looks like a granular mass of a heterogeneous composition and is used to finish external and interior spaces. When applying such a plaster solution, an almost even layer with a weak grain size is obtained, but when the layer dries on a flat surface, showing a kind of optical relief. With a good adhesive surface, this plaster adheres well to drywall and chipboard.

Structural plaster features include its excellent air permeability and resistance to various atmospheric manifestations. Such a dry mixture is produced in packages weighing 9, 18 and 50 kilograms, and the finished solution is applied to a clean, dried surface treated with a primer, which penetrates deep into the inner surface of the wall. At least 3 kilograms of dry mix is ​​consumed per square meter of wall.

During plastering work, there should not be high humidity and the temperature should not fall below 7 degrees. Structural relief is achieved in various ways, and using tools such as a smooth spatula and roller - sometimes a structural surface is created with a special spray gun. For example, to obtain a wave structure, plaster with large grains is used, and it is applied with a spatula in a circular motion.

Such properties of structural plaster allow its use for finishing bathrooms - facades, cares and gates are also successfully finished with it. The new surface is resistant to damage and directed impacts - it can be used without fear of damage.

For interior work, a dry mixture is selected, which is diluted with water - it does not smell and hardens quickly enough.

Special skill is needed when applying Venetian plaster - such a multi-layer coating comes from the romantic city of lovers, made by adding marble chips and slaked lime to a dry mixture. During the construction of buildings and the use of marble for their decoration, many small pieces remained, and in order not to waste good, they began to be used as a material for wall cladding.

Externally, the coating looks like marble, or made of precious onyx, so it must be done by an experienced plasterer. A solution of Venetian plaster is applied with a rubber spatula and the thinnest layer - each layer requires complete drying. The dry mix is ​​quite expensive, and the work on creating the plaster layer is quite painstaking, but the effect of translucent matte layers justifies all efforts. Most often, Venetian plaster is used to recreate the classical and antique style - it looks especially impressive in the Baroque style.

Different directions of movement of the spatula and methods of applying plaster allow you to achieve a matte and glossy surface of the walls. In addition to stone surfaces, Venetian plaster can imitate the brilliance of precious metals - thus, they achieve the effect of expanding the room and complex reflection of light on the wall surface. The dry mix is ​​produced in bags of 8 and 16 kilograms, and color can be added to it. The wall before plastering must be dry, clean and treated with a deep primer, and before priming it must be reinforced and puttied. If the technology for working with Venetian plaster is not followed, cracks may appear, which will then be difficult to get rid of. Often, such a coating is used as a basis for bas-reliefs, frescoes and complex panels.

More and more new types of interior surface finishes are presented by modern manufacturers. These include:

• colored plaster, based on acrylic and marble chips - it is characterized by water-repellent properties and hardness. A variety of colors is represented by more than fifteen shades - the solution is applied to a dry, cleaned surface in one layer. With equal success, the solution is applied to the outer and inner surfaces, but in order to prevent the formation of joints that will be noticeable, the plastering process should be brought from the corner to opposite corner.
• roller plaster is characterized by a filler of organic origin of various sizes - when it is applied, channels are formed that are located in different directions. Decorative patterns are formed by applying the solution to the wall with a wide spatula, and then rubbed with arbitrary movements in circular and horizontal movements. With roller plaster, color is often added to the dry mix, or painted after the mortar has set.
• latex plastic imitates the structure of polished stone, its gloss and shine so convincingly that you can make a mistake in determining the texture of the surface, even touching it. Finished plaster resists cracking and repels water, making walls easier to clean. And colors close in tone are rubbed in a solution without abusing stirring - then the structure of the stone is formed, imitating relief structures. Before applying the plaster, the walls are puttied and treated with a deep penetration primer.
• the relief of wet silk convincingly imitates this precious fabric on the walls - mother-of-pearl particles in a dry mixture demonstrate the play of silk and all its color possibilities. Such plaster is produced in a few, but extremely spectacular colors - the coating is available in white and golden colors, has the color of ripe garnet and metallic silver and bronze shades. This coating has moisture resistance, which allows it to be washed and cleaned, therefore, this type of plaster is most often used for the kitchen.
• the sea breeze technique allows you to apply translucent colors with a slight pearly sheen to the walls. This effect is achieved by the fact that the composition of the plaster includes river fine-grained sand - the play of colors in such plaster is achieved by arbitrary application of the solution, followed by careful rubbing it on the wall. The main colors when using this technique are golden, white and garnet tones, bronze is used from metallic colors, but the chameleon shade becomes the most spectacular, which is able to change colors depending on the lighting. The use of plaster in the technique of sea breeze, most often used in design decoration interior.

The excellent technical qualities and wonderful color effect of decorative plaster have captivated many designers because of the richness of color and variety of textures. This type of coating stands out among other materials for interior decoration, and its irresistible qualities win more admirers.

Plaster in the interior shows all its positive properties:

• it hides all the irregularities and defects of the wall surface;
• adheres well to all known building materials for walls and ceilings;
• has a high ability to absorb odors and a pronounced resistance to sound and noise effects;
• has an original and unique design, and goes well with other decor items;
• does not require special processing of the walls, but is distinguished by remarkable durability and strength;
• retains heat well, but creates an obstacle to the penetration of moisture and frost;
• good plasticity makes it possible to process surfaces of any complexity and give the coating any shape;
• wall plastering achieves the appearance of an environmentally friendly, practical and durable coating that resists mechanical stress.

The quality of the decorative coating directly depends on the condition of the tools with which it is produced. All of them must be free from defects in the coating, not have cracks or notches.

Types of applying decorative plaster are distinguished by their own technique for giving the walls a special expressiveness and new artistic properties.

For the application of Venetian plaster, which requires a special multi-layer performance, work is carried out with stainless steel spatulas of various sizes. The basis of the plaster layer is applied with the widest spatula, and the gaps should not only remain, but also become an important component in the compositional design.

The initial layer is made wide and completely devoid of symmetry.

All layers that are applied to the base should be more bright color cover the faded layer, and vice versa, try to press the bright layer more so that it becomes less expressive. To achieve overflows of color, each of the layers can have its own shade close in color. Each of the layers is dried, leveled and subjected to grinding, to make the surface glossy, an ironing process is carried out. And, for extra shine, the finished layers of plaster are varnished, or with special wax. The transparency of each layer gives the wall surface the effect of volume and depth.

Plaster decorative types of textures with a relief pattern are carried out a little differently - it does not require special processing and. It is enough just to remove old layers, wash and dry the walls. At the next stage, the wall surface is treated with a primer, which has deep penetration properties and an antibacterial composition, which prevents the appearance of fungus and mold. The wall covering is primed a day before the start of plastering and make sure that the primer layer is completely dry.

The plaster mortar is applied to the wall surface with a wide spatula with a soft surface, then a relief is quickly made over the wet plaster. To obtain a different textured surface, tools such as spatulas are used. various shapes, rollers, sponges and various stencils. The embossing is carried out immediately from one wall to another in order to achieve a uniform surface without visible seams.

Decorative plaster types and methods of application are carried out using special knowledge - in order to apply structural plaster with high quality, you need to remember that a trowel made of stainless steel becomes the main plastering tool. The layer of plaster should not be much larger than the size of the composite grains, and after application, the layer of plaster is left to set for 2-3 minutes. After that, smooth the layer of plaster in a circular motion with a plastic trowel. In this way, a uniform distribution of the granules that are in the solution is ensured, and the excess mass is removed from the trowel with a smaller spatula. In order not to see the joints, they plaster and make a relief surface, quickly working from corner to another corner. If the coloring layer has not been added to the dry mix, then the coloring is carried out no earlier than 10-14 days after the plastering.

Strength and resistance to various damages allows you to completely ignore the walls in the first year after the coating has been applied. The plastered surface of the walls does not absorb dust and unpleasant odors, and also repels water, so the walls are effortlessly cleaned by any detergents on a neutral basis. The walls will be cleaned from dirt with a soft cloth and sponge, but not with metal scrapers, hard brushes and pumice.

In order for wall plaster to please the eye for a long time, it is coated with wax and glazing agents, which increases the waterproofing of the walls, and for Venetian plaster it provides additional shine. The wax composition focuses on the depth of the relief, while increasing their protection from dust, moisture and mechanical stress. Wax components are selected in a silvery-white shade with a mother-of-pearl effect and with a yellowish translucent tint. The wax coating is applied with a double layer with a spatula, sponge or brush, and after drying, it is polished. soft cloth. Such a coating will respond positively to cleaning with detergents, but it is impossible to use a chemical solvent for it.

Glazing is a translucent coating, which allows you to acquire additional volume and emphasize the contours of the relief of the plaster. It can have various metallic surfaces that shimmer in the light, or it can simply be white, which emphasizes the texture of the plaster. The glazing agent is applied with a brush, sponge, or a special mitten in order to fully process all the depressions of the relief. Thanks to such means, relief plaster will last longer and retain the hardness of its surface.

If you need to remove the coating from the wall, you can use various methods.

If you are tired of the color, then the coating can simply be repainted. When another version of the plaster is planned, the top layer is removed to the concrete base. In the case when you want to replace the textured surface with a smooth one in order to glue the wallpaper, it is simply puttied, removing all textured irregularities.

Decorative plaster completely changes the appearance of the room and has several types. The textured dry mix contains mineral chips, mica and other inclusions, which, when applied randomly, produce a stunning effect. Structural plaster looks like a granular mass, which consists of various inclusions and produces a relief pattern after drying. Thinner Venetian stucco is applied in layers and torn with protective compounds for protection and added shine. Almost smooth surfaces with overflows of colors are provided by modern plaster materials, and plastered surfaces need to be washed with simple detergents.

Wall decoration with decorative plaster is work that is carried out on internal or external surfaces. They are aimed at giving the walls or ceiling a certain texture and color. Depending on the selected composition, different techniques for applying this material are used. Only preparatory work remains unchanged.

To finish the walls with plaster with your own hands, you will need the following:

• spatulas of different sizes;
• graters and half graters;
• trowel;
• containers;
• brushes, rollers and sponges;
• drill with mixer nozzle;
• ladder or scaffolding;
• polyethylene film, masking tape;
• plaster mixture, wax, paint.

For preparatory phase You need the following tools and materials:

• sandpaper, grinder;
• rule;
• level and plumb;
• spatulas;
• reinforcing mesh;
• deep penetration primer;
• starting plaster, putty.

Preparatory stage

Finishing with plaster requires a perfectly prepared surface. To do this, you need to carry out the following manipulations:

1. Completely remove the old coating or clean it from traces of paint, wallpaper, and so on.
2. Align the walls with starting plaster and reinforcing mesh or drywall sheets.
3. Repair possible surface defects, such as potholes and cracks, with putty.
4. Remove protruding fragments.
5. Check the evenness of the walls with a level or plumb line.
6. Apply two coats of primer to increase adhesion.

Structural plaster walls

With the help of this material, finishing work is carried out on external and internal surfaces. Finishing decorative plaster with your own hands does not require rich experience or qualifications - House master deal with it easily. Difficulties can arise only with applying the mixture to the ceiling.

Solution preparation

The modern construction market offers ready-made mixtures in plastic containers of various sizes or dry powders in bags that need to be diluted with water. If we are talking about saving the budget, then it is better to buy powdered material and prepare decorative plaster with your own hands. For this purpose, you will need an electric drill with a mixer attachment, water and a mixing container.

Important! Most structural plasters dry very quickly, and water should not be added to them after preparation, so it is not recommended to make large batches so as not to lose material.

The material consumption directly depends on the filler fraction:

• Coarse-grained material - 2 kg per square meter.
• Medium grain - 1.7 kg.
• Fine-grained - 0.7 kg.

First of all, you need to wash the breeding container and pour into it the amount of water indicated by the manufacturer on the package. The temperature of the liquid should be approximately 20 degrees. Then you should gradually add the solution to the water, stirring it with a mixer.

After that, you need to wait about 15 minutes and stir the plaster again. If the material is made on the basis of acrylic resins, then color is added to it, otherwise it is subject to subsequent coloring. This completes the preparation of decorative plaster with your own hands.

Application features

The prepared composition is collected on a spatula and applied to the wall, after which the plaster is stretched over the surface. Excess material is also removed with a spatula. During application, it is important to observe the thickness of the plaster layer, which must correspond to the fraction of the material, therefore it is not recommended to make it more than 3 mm. At the same time, too thin a layer will not be able to completely cover the walls, and after drying, a primer will appear on them.

As mentioned above, given material dries instantly, so a limited time is allotted for work. In order for the plaster layer to be uniform, it should be applied at a time. If the surface to be treated is too large, then you will have to divide it into sections with masking tape. Then apply plaster with an overlap, remove the tape until the material has hardened, and treat the rest of the area in the same way.

The applied layer of plaster should not be thicker than the grain of the filler included in the composition.

Rubbing plaster

This stage is considered the most responsible. From him proper conduct depends on the appearance of the resulting surface and its performance. Work must begin immediately after the material has set. This usually takes 30 minutes. Checking the readiness of the wall is simple: just put your hand on it, if it does not stick, you can start.

The procedure is carried out using a plastic trowel. For achievement various effects use different rubbing techniques (see photo):

Should know! If for some reason it is not possible to process the entire wall at a time, then you do not need to grind exactly to the boundaries of the treated area. It is necessary to leave the plaster untouched along the edges, and after applying the entire layer, carefully wipe the joints.

VIDEO: applying decorative plaster "Lamb" (master class)

Coloring

A day after the main work, you can start painting the wall. The first step is to process the entire surface with sandpaper to even out minor defects. Then the wall is painted in a dark color and wait until it dries. The next coat of paint should be lighter by 1-2 tones. Work is carried out in the usual paint roller, and the joints of the wall with the floor and ceiling are treated with a brush. After the second layer has dried, it is recommended to apply a glossy varnish.

Wall decoration with textured plaster

First, a solution is prepared taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations, after which it is applied to the surface with spatulas. dries longer than structural, so you can safely process the entire wall. Excess material is also removed with a spatula. After processing the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall, you can begin to create a texture.

How to make a texture layer

Such coverage can be obtained using the following tools:

• roller;
• stencil-stamp;
• trowel and spatula.

Using a roller is the easiest and fastest way. With this tool, you can create a surface that resembles velor. To do this, you need to forcefully pass them over the entire surface of the wall, while the movements should be directed in one direction. Then wait for the material to dry and remove the protruding fragments with a spatula blade.

If applying decorative plaster with your own hands seems too complicated, then you can purchase special stencil-stamps with embossed patterns in hardware stores. These products are simply pressed against fresh plaster, after which a relief remains on it. The main inconvenience is the need to constantly rinse the stencil with water in order to remove residual material from its surface.

On a note! When buying everything you need, you need to purchase several small stencils for the corners.

With the help of spatulas and trowels, patterns are created that resemble the texture of natural stone, suede or concrete. You need to work with them according to the same principle as with all the above tools. The brush, spatula or trowel is pressed against the surface and carried out over its entire area. If there was no construction tool at hand, then you can use an ordinary sponge or even a plastic bag. In general, anything that can leave relief on the surface will do.

VIDEO: wall decoration with textured plaster

How to stain

Such decorative plaster for internal works does not require mandatory staining, but to emphasize the texture it is better to do it anyway. First, the surface is cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper, then the resulting dust is brushed off. The first layer of paint is applied with a long-haired roller, and the second with a short-haired one. Paint tones should be slightly different. They need to be applied at intervals of a day, while the plaster, after giving the texture, should dry for about 48 hours.

If there was no roller at hand, then the process of painting the decor plaster is as follows:

1. Open a can of paint and pour it into a special container. The brush is completely dipped into it, for the entire length of the bristles. Then wring out the embossed edge of the container to remove excess paint. If there is no special container, you can squeeze the bristles of the brush on a piece of multilayer cardboard.
2. Now you can start applying paint. It is not necessary to paint over every detail, you should apply a layer with sweeping movements, barely touching the surface. Thus, the paint will not rub into the texture, but will only touch the protruding fragments.
3. Wait for the first layer to dry and apply a second, lighter one. In this case, the same technique is used as for the first layer.
4. The last step will be the application of varnish. This material is first diluted with water in a ratio of 1:1, after which it is applied with a wide, clean brush. After some time (each varnish dries for a certain period), you can apply a second layer. After about 1-2 days, you can touch the plastered wall.

Some masters use the blur method. It involves applying only one layer of paint, which is then rubbed with a damp cloth. As a result, the invoice remains rich color, and the protruding parts are lighter.

Drawings and panels

Before working with decorative plaster, you need to immediately determine the presence of additional design elements on the walls, for example, various drawings or panels. They are able to decorate and ennoble even the most ordinary interior, especially if they are combined with the right lighting.

What drawings can be used and where to place them

A win-win option is a separate wall, which is pre-finished with stone or stucco around the perimeter. It is also appropriate to place these elements between windows, near interior doors or along the edges of an arched passage.

If we are talking about a children's room, then here you can fantasize as much as you like. Drawings can be drawn to the theme of a child's favorite fairy tale or cartoon. For a children's room, it is permissible to apply drawings over the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball walls.

As for bedrooms or living rooms, everything is much more complicated here. The first rule is that the drawing should not bring disharmony into the interior. Paintings on the walls are allowed only for classic design, baroque, empire, etc. It goes without saying that in modern or hi-tech, drawings and panels will look superfluous.

Bas-relief on the wall is an excellent solution for creating a stylish and unique interior.

The tone of the painted panel should either contrast with the tone of the adjacent wall, or differ from it by 2 tones. The combination of colorful and dark tones is unacceptable.

Application techniques

There are three main methods of surface decoration that require artistic taste. Therefore, it is better to trust professionals or get a master class on decorative plasters.

Working with a stencil

This option for creating three-dimensional paintings is the simplest. As a stencil, you can use fragments of plywood or drywall, after cutting patterns on them.

The application process is as follows:

Creating a bas-relief using construction tools

The relief graphics method is also considered one of the most popular. It involves the use of plastic fine-grained plasters based on synthetic binders, acrylic paints and colorless varnish. To carry out such operations, brushes are also required. different forms and sizes, spatulas from various materials, pointed wooden pegs.

The process goes like this:

• After applying the final layer of plaster, the master, using the selected tool, applies a relief pattern to the surface. by the most simple example are the waves drawn with a paint brush.
• The composition is completed with a decorated relief frame, which is created using a sponge or foam roller.
• After the drawing has completely dried, it is painted. There are also no clear recommendations here - it all depends on imagination and talent.

hand sculpting

The last method is considered the most difficult and without a profile education, sculpture, most likely, nothing will work out. The purpose of this operation is to create a relief on the wall being processed by hand modeling. Such panels can occupy only part of the wall, or they can occupy the entire area. After they dry, the surfaces are also treated with paint and varnish.

Do-it-yourself decorative plaster is applied quite simply, if you do not take into account the artistic aspects of the issue. The main thing is to follow the above tips and recommendations from manufacturers.

Decorative plaster together with firmly holds the palm among finishing materials. Using natural materials and traditional technologies do-it-yourself decorative plaster saves up to 80% of finishing costs or allows you to start a highly profitable small business: the components are cheap, and the work is difficult and expensive.

Another important advantage is the huge wealth of colors, textures and reliefs, which are approximately equivalent in terms of labor intensity and cost. The figure shows only a small part of the available textures, each of which also has varieties, and may vary depending on the method of application. In the interior, decorative plaster gives freedom of design: you just need to say what surface is needed, and the craftsmen will do it, so long as the customer does not require a different type of finish.

People with artistic ability only stucco can, see the next pic. A skilled craftsman can achieve the effect of the full presence of the present in the fictitious, as in fig. left. But, of course, before undertaking such work, you need to fully master all the technology and feel the material to the finest nuances.

Finally, there are many ready-made polymer-based mixes on the market that are strong, resistant and designed to different modes temperature and humidity. Although they are not cheap, the technology for applying decorative plaster industrial production is not complicated, careful labor-intensive leveling of the underlying surface is not required, so in general, finishing with decorative plaster can be cheaper than ordinary plaster, followed by wallpapering and painting.

So what is it made of, this wonderful material? Is it possible to make it yourself? How to work with him?

It is not difficult to make decorative plaster yourself from natural components, you only need accuracy and a simple tool. Ready-made polymer-based mixtures require industrial manufacturing technology, but decorating walls with them is easier than plastering under wallpaper or painting. Working with decorative plaster is not technically difficult, but the most accurate robot cannot cope with it: a certain amount of artistic taste is needed.

And most importantly, we are not talking about one material, but about many types and varieties. The main ones will be described in this article, but first of all - about the composition and its components. Then - the preparatory work, and only then - for the cause.

Composition and components

Decorative plaster for interior work consists of a filler that gives a general tone, strength and durability, a pigment (colour), structural (modeling) elements, surface or volumetric, and a binder that holds it all together into a monolith. The finished coating is glazed to increase surface resistance - a reinforcing composition is introduced into a thin surface layer.

Fillers

The most common filler was and remains pure fine white river sand or finely ground quartz sand. For real Venetian plaster (see below), it is partially or completely replaced with marble flour. Synthetic self-forming fillers are becoming more widespread (drying, the plaster itself wrinkles into a unique relief), but mixtures with them are produced only industrially and are sold ready-made.

Pigments

Mixtures give color (tint) with pigments, mineral and organic synthetic. Natural organic pigments (cochineal, indigo) in plaster burn out quickly. The pigment can be in the form of a powder, then it is introduced into the filler before mixing; paste-like and liquid pigments are introduced into the mixture ready for application.

To create any color, in principle, red, green and blue are enough - the main basic colors, but the plaster itself does not glow, its color is created by subtracting complementary colors from the reflected white. In colorimetry, this method of colorization is called subtractive.

Therefore, in order to get pure and / or deep tones, additional colors are needed: yellow, blue (turquoise), magenta (lilac, violet), and key color(key color); with a white backing, the key will be black. There are more than enough synthetic pigments of any color on sale, and the following can be recommended from mineral ones for natural plaster:

• Red- red ocher, calcined hematite, red cadmium. Cinnabar - no way, it's a mercury compound! Cadmium is also toxic, but not volatile, chemically resistant and does not migrate from the plaster layer.
• Yellow- yellow ocher, orpiment, red lead.
• Green- malachite (ground), pseudomalachite, kerchenite, chrome green, brilliant green powder.
• Blue- blue (next point) mixed with zinc or titanium white; azurite and dioptase are expensive.
• Blue- lapis lazuli (lapis lazuli), cobalt blue, vivianite (mineral indigo).
• Violet– calcined lapis lazuli, oxides of manganese. Pharmacy potassium permanganate is not suitable, and not at all because of the regulated circulation: it is chemically aggressive (strong oxidizing agent), actively migrates.
• Brown- dark ocher, iron minium.
• Black- soot gas, charcoal.

Notes:

1. Violet, mauve and magenta; blue with turquoise - visually different colors. But they belong to the same zone of the spectrum - mixing them with yellow, you can get the same red or green, only the ratio of the components will be different.
2. Gas soot is not scraped out of the chimney. It is sold precisely as a pigment in construction and art stores.

In general, any mineral pigments for easel painting will go for decorative wall plastering, it's just a matter of price. There is a difference - to paint an icon, which will then be bought for several thousand dollars, or to finish two dozen squares, keeping within the family budget. For shine, metal powders are used as a pigment.

Organic pigments are cheaper than many mineral pigments, they can be iridescent (pearl, metallic) and fluorescent (self-luminous after exposure to the Sun). But keep in mind - there is no organic matter that would not burn out for decades, not to mention centuries, and in principle cannot exist. Its highest UV resistance to date is 80 years, at a coating price of $4 per square inch.

Modeling elements

For the formation texture surface injected into the mixture, or sprayed onto the finished coating, different kind flakes, fibers, granules, up to golden balls. This will be discussed in more detail in the description of the types of plasters, but it is important to know: mineral plaster mixtures are structured very poorly. You need to either strictly follow proven recipes, or have extensive experience in order to experiment yourself.

Binder

For plaster, mineral and organic polymeric binders are used. The former are not very sticky, but have been tested for centuries and are cheap; the second - tightly stick to anything except clean glass, polished metal, polyethylene and fluoroplastic, stretch well when dried, but are expensive and in operation for less than 100 years.

Mineral

Cement and simple gypsum are not used for decorative plaster: the first gives a too rough surface and a dirty tone of color, and the second is fragile. On sale there are mixtures based on gypsum modified with polymer additives, but their reliability has not yet been tested for centuries.

Natural decorative plaster is most often made on lime paste. It is cheap, strong, durable, allows you to use a variety of decorative techniques, but its adhesive ability is low, so good, and rather laborious, surface preparation is required. The relief can only be obtained by wet modeling or stenciling - it is not plastic, it does not stretch.

Sometimes, for coatings that are not particularly responsible in design, but require increased durability (for example, in the hallway), they take plaster on a binder of liquid glass - silicate. It is durable, sticks well, but is rough, and not every pigment can be introduced into it.

For especially critical cases, the binder is taken magnesian: caustic magnesite (magnesium oxide) MgO, mixed with an aqueous solution of magnesium chloride MgCl2. The components are caustic, individually dangerous, the mixture must be prepared immediately before use, strictly following the rules of chemical technology, but the plaster comes out exceptionally durable and moisture resistant.

organic

The main organic binders are acrylic resin and silicone, which is already organosilicon. Both of them stick well and stretch. Acrylic is much cheaper; the price of the finished coating is comparable to that of the "mineral water"; layer thickness - up to 12 mm. Silicone is very expensive, but it allows you to make convex bas-reliefs, high reliefs and even a round sculpture.

Mixes

The standard composition of plaster mixtures for interior decoration is as follows:

1. filler - 3 parts by weight;
2. binder - 1 weight part;
3. pigment - 2-12% by weight of the mixture according to the results of coloring, see below;
4. modeling additives - according to secret proprietary technology or the results of our own unique experience.

Note: up to 80-90% of the filler with pigment in total can be introduced into the plaster on an acrylic binder, as for liquid stone. The wall for such plaster should be prepared, as under the Venetian on an acrylic substrate, see below, and still be limited to 4 parts of the filler with pigment per 1 part of the binder - the plaster is not a countertop, it does not lie, but hangs on the wall.

Vykras

Wall decoration with decorative plaster is unthinkable without test paints. They are needed not only for selecting the tone and checking the texture, but also for testing the strength of the fit: after complete drying, the color samples are turned upside down or put on the priest and tapped on it. back side the butt of the handle of a roller or spatula. If it doesn't fall off, it will stay on the wall.

Vykras is done on a plywood board 0.5x0.5 m thick 8-20 mm. Plywood is needed without impregnation, the simplest, on casein glue, from coniferous or birch. Replace plywood with drywall or other board materials can't: exactly plain plywood on casein holds the plaster in the same way as a prepared wall.

Note: plywood for painting is needed not stratified and new, not dusty and not seized. Dust and grease drastically reduce the adhesive susceptibility of the substrate.

Glazing

Glazing is the final operation of decorative plaster. Its purpose is to give relief and / or painting surface resistance. The traditional way of glazing old mineral plasters is with beeswax: the surface is lined with a piece of wax crosswise, then rubbed with a horn sponge, thin felt or rawhide polish.

wax for glazing

Wax glazing is a labor-intensive and responsible operation. Wax is applied and rubbed repeatedly, and at the same time, you must not erase the relief and wipe the drawing. Suffice it to say that the quality of glazing in the old days was checked by placing a palm on the opposite side of the wall: it should have warmed through from friction heating.

Nowadays, they are glazed either with transparent acrylic varnish - it easily penetrates into the surface layer of any plaster - or with special single-use glaze compositions; they are simply applied with a roller or brush. But there is a nuance: if a ready-made mixture is used, then it is necessary to glaze with the composition of the same manufacturer, and intended specifically for this mixture. It is physically impossible to check for compatibility all plaster products on the market.

I must say that some manufacturers shamelessly use this circumstance for selfish purposes: the mixture seems to be inexpensive, and the glazing for it ... there are no words, one primordial Russian non-normative. Therefore, when choosing a ready-made mixture, be sure to read in the FIRM instructions how it is recommended to glaze it, and ask how much it costs. In extreme cases - acrylic varnish has not yet spoiled any plaster.

Video: an example of glazing in a lacquer manufacturer's video

Tool

To work on decorative plaster, in addition to the usual plastering tool, you will also need a special one: textured rollers, stamps, a rubbing sponge, see fig. A set of notched trowels also comes in handy, especially if you're thinking of a modern clone design.

Rollers and dies must, firstly, be soft-elastic, otherwise it will turn out not a unique relief, but roll rolling. Secondly, they should not stick with the mixture. For permanent use, it is better to get rollers with a Teflon or polyester coating - they are durable. For one-time amateur work, it is better to purchase cheap polyethylene ones.

Special mention should be made of sponges for rubbing. The luxury finish is still rubbed with natural sea horn sponges; they go on sale as "coral", although the sponge is not coral at all, and are expensive. Two types of horny sponges are mined: toilet and horse. The first is softer, goes to the final grout, and the second, coarser - to the rough.

However, practice shows that horn sponges successfully replace the usual two-layer kitchen sponge for dishes. Its hard fibrous side is used for rough grinding, and the soft foam side is used for finishing. A kitchen sponge on plaster wears out very quickly, but it also costs a penny.

Wall preparation

Preparation of walls for decorative plaster is carried out in the following order:

• Close up cracks.
• durable cement putty.
• a falcon in the air WITHOUT LIGHTHOUSES, even surface ones; perfect evenness, as for painting or wallpaper, does not need to be achieved - the decor will hide minor flaws.
• Thoroughly remove dust with a dry brush, then suck it with a vacuum cleaner with a dust collector.
• Under all plasters, except Venetian - primed with a deep penetration primer on stone or plaster.
• Under Venetian plaster - make a substrate with sand, see below.

Beacons cannot be used in base plaster for the following reason: the base layer may not be very even, but must be perfectly uniform. Closed grooves from remote beacons, dried-up induced beacons violate this uniformity, which in a couple of years will lead to delamination of the decor.

It is better to take the base plaster warm on expanded vermiculite. Styrofoam, etc. not strong, and in decorative plaster, as nowhere else, you must follow the immutable finishing principle: strong and heavy should not lie on light and weak.

Why do you need warm plaster? The decor is inherently heterogeneous, which is why it is sensitive to the temperature gradient (temperature difference) across the thickness of the layer. Load-bearing walls are now built more of silicate brick and concrete, which have a fairly high thermal conductivity, due to which, with sudden changes in the weather, the gradient may go beyond the permissible range. If the box is ceramic brick, now they are heating not with stoves, but with radiators, and they don’t make walls a meter thick, which can give the same result.

Venetian lining

Applying natural Venetian plaster requires considerable physical effort, and replacing sand with marble dust reduces the adhesion of the mixture. In addition, in order for the Venetian to show itself in all its glory, the substrate under it must reflect light with brilliance.

An old way of priming under a Venetian is painting with lead or zinc white (tucia) in linseed oil with an admixture of fine quartz sand and ground pearls that have become old and have lost their value. Now the base surface under the Venetian is painted with pearl acrylic paint, also with the addition of sand, to improve adhesion due to roughness.

How much sand do you need? Approximately 5-15% by weight. The test on the nail is precisely determined by the dried color: the nail should go easily and smoothly, and a uniformly rough white spot should remain on it. If individual scratches are visible, there is not enough sand or it is too large. If it slows down, as if on sandpaper, there is a lot of sand.

Is it possible to prime the old fashioned way? Not recommended. Firstly, it makes no sense to replace pearls with cheaper, but still expensive pearl stalemate: stalemate is made from the scales of small herring fish - sprat, tyulka, herring, kibinago - and in their own way physical and chemical properties he's not a gem at all. Secondly, a city apartment is not a family nest. Once again there will be a repair, and the oil absorbed into the wall will show itself as stains on the wallpaper or paint, and it is very difficult to get rid of them.

Working methods

Methods for applying decorative plaster are somewhat different from those for ordinary plaster, and include additional operations: tinting, sculpting, grinding, glazing. Glazing has already been said; how to make a Venetian will be discussed specifically later. Here we will talk about the general techniques of manual work. Mechanized methods: spraying to get icicles on the ceiling, etc. - the subject of a separate discussion.

There is one more significant difference: the decor can, and should, be made multi-layered for an artistic effect. She should not keep anything else on herself, and glazing will strengthen her. Layers can be up to 15 or more, as long as the material allows: the thickness of the finished coating along the depressions of the relief should not exceed 6 mm. Layers can be either continuous or piecewise, but always wet on wet. Let the previous one have already begun to set, but it should be wet in appearance and to the touch.

Application

The finished “decorative” must be applied, of course, not with a falcon and a rule for lighthouses, but with a wide spatula in weight. The mixtures are quite viscous, it is more convenient to pull the spatula with both hands, and small irregularities do not matter, because. further finishing is not expected.

The spatula, smooth or notched, is pulled from the bottom up in vertical or oblique stripes. Unlike the usual one, it is permissible, for the sake of heightening the aesthetic effect, to apply the decorative effect with rays apart or with a drive to the center. The spatula is pulled with small waves, swaying across; so the mixture will stick better to the wall.

Coloring

The applied layer can be tinted (tinted) on top by applying a thin layer of the same mixture on it with a shaggy roller or a flute brush, but with additional color and diluted water. You can tint both wet on wet, for modeling, and already seized, but still damp layer - for grinding.

modeling

Modeling (which can be done with rollers, stamps, or just a finger in a latex glove) not only creates a relief. Modeling a wet tinted layer disperses the pigment to the tops of the relief, which already gives a certain transition of colors.

Rubbing

Layer rubbing is done for the following:

1. Rough sponge - under the next layer.
2. She also rough and clean - to shade the stained color scheme.
3. With a falcon or a spatula on a barely set relief - to smooth its tops into one level and highlight it with color; this is how bark beetle plasters are rubbed.

Stencil plaster

Semantic images with plaster can be made using a stencil with a thickness of 1.5-4 mm. The stencil layer can be both final and intermediate. If the previous layer is even, the stencil is easier to make from cardboard; if embossed - from foam or soft rubber. The mixture is rubbed into the stencil with a narrow spatula or driven in with an end brush. To highlight the color, a slightly dried-up pattern is overwritten, or vice versa, rubbed into it with a color sponge.

Video: applying decorative plaster on a stencil

About drying

Decorative plaster is dried in a ventilated room only in a natural way. Exposure to direct sunlight is unacceptable: except for hanging open windows gauze or tulle, you need to arrange a temporary visor above the window or inside - shading screens. It is unacceptable to speed up drying in any way, except for individual areas for craquelure, see below.

You can open your creation for viewing in a day in clear weather or two in cloudy weather, and use the room in a week. It takes from 2 to 12 hours to set the next layer, depending on the type of plaster and temperature. 15 hours after application, the coat is considered unsuitable for wet-on-wet work. This is either the finish, or all the work is spoiled.

Types of plasters

Types of decorative plaster, with all their diversity, are not so difficult to classify, based on the final result:

• Venetian - can be considered the progenitor of all others.
• Stucco (discussed earlier).
• Ottocento (fibrous) plasters.
• Textured.
• Structural.
• Flock plaster.
• Modeling plasters.

Venetian

Venetian plaster was invented back in Ancient Rome. In ancient times, marble was a mass building material, from the processing of which a lot of waste remained. Practical Roman women ground it into dust and replaced it with white sand, which is not so much in nature. Then they noticed that a thin layer was translucent, and they began to apply it in layers, carefully rubbing each layer ( Slave work cheap), which made it possible to obtain coatings that were translucent almost like real marble, but suitable for weak and curved walls. By applying piecewise layers filled with colored ground stone, travertine and other facing materials were imitated.

He perfected the technology of the Venetian in the 16th century. one of the titans of the Renaissance, the greatest architect of the West, Andrea Palladio. He was the first to create the technique of the Venetian artistic images. Now the Venetian is reviving, which is greatly facilitated by cheap prices for marble flour (mining companies vying with each other) and the emergence of inexpensive and low-labor acrylic paints and varnishes for substrates and glazing. The Venetian woman has been described many times and competently, so we will reveal only some secrets.

Craquelure

The Venetian is often artificially aged, making cracking - craquelure. The technology is simple: the layer is covered with a special craquelure varnish (expensive). As it hardens, it shrinks and pulls the plaster along with it.

There is a way to reduce the cost of craquelure and make it look more natural without reducing the strength of the coating. But first you need to practice on the colors:

• The cracked area is dried, constantly visually controlled, with an infrared emitter with a reflector; an ancient electric fireplace bowl is well suited.
• Cracks appear a little or earlier, depending on experience, the heating is stopped, the cracks will spread themselves.
• A plaster composition is rubbed into the cracks with a dental spatula, tinted to black or dark gray with gas soot; you can add a dark minium.
• The remains of the filler are washed with a sponge.
• Apply a thin translucent solid layer without color.

Video: how to apply Venetian plaster craquelure

Carrara

Do not get carried away with colored spots. If you are not too lazy to apply 10-12 layers, and you already have some skill, you will take pure white marble flour on lime as a filler, and glaze it with wax, even a connoisseur will not immediately distinguish such a Venetian from the most exquisite Carrara marble, the deposits of which are now almost exhausted.

veins

Darkish veins on natural marble are inclusions of bituminous marble. Their imitation is easy to obtain artificially: the next portion of the mixture is tinted with 5-15% carbon black, smears are made with a curved medical spatula and rubbed with a sponge. The next continuous layer without color is required.

Video: Venetian plaster lesson

Wax

The Venetian woman has a serious flaw and at the same time dignity: she breathes, i.e. hygroscopic. But even in the bathroom you sometimes want to make decorative plaster under some kind of natural stone. Here the French turned out to be the inventors: someone came up with the idea of ​​introducing 1/4-1/5 cellulose (vegetable) fibers into the filler, finely ground and boiled in wax. This is how Marseille wax plaster appeared, in fig. on the left, completely waterproof.

Replacing cellulose with lignin from wood waste, they then obtained Andalusian wax (center), which is rougher in appearance, but also cheaper. Now all "wax" plasters for rooms with high humidity are made ready for use on acrylic; their collective name is mizuri-type plasters, on the right in fig.

Video: an example of Roman plaster under a stone

fibrous

The next step in increasing the strength and aesthetic merits of plaster coatings was made again by the Italians. Instead of plant fibers, they used animals in the form of silk threads, obtaining a velvety ottocento plaster, on the left in fig. In modern times, the classic expensive ottocento has again been replaced with synthetics on acrylic, which is in no way inferior to it.

Trademarks for Ottocento analogues are velveton (center) and velvetex (right). What is the difference between them, the manufacturers themselves cannot really explain. In the conventional wisdom, it is believed that in velveton the fibrous additive is collected in more or less distinct conglomerates, and in velvetex it is more or less evenly distributed. Both are sold ready to use.

Textured

- the invention of the era of high technology. In essence, this is no longer plaster, but liquid wallpaper: textured elements are introduced into the finished mixture during manufacture. Textured plaster is applied without features; the finished surface is flat. Most of the time no grinding is required. There are textured plasters imitating a Venetian, but they do not breathe.

The texture can be either chaotic (see the figure on the left) or regular, and even with a claim to expressiveness: leaves, flowers, butterflies, etc. Textured plasters are in a state of rapid evolution in the direction - splashed on the wall from a bucket, dried up, Gioconda or Venus Botticelli turned out.

Textured plasters are used, as a rule, in the kitchen and in other small rooms with difficult temperature and humidity conditions, but where a colorful cheerful design is required: they are too expensive for finishing large areas, but they are absolutely hygienic and hygroscopic. They are not suitable for a bedroom and a nursery - they glare and do not breathe.

Structural

With structural plasters, there is some confusion in the definitions: some refer to them as any relief plasters, incl. stucco and stencil (see the figure in the paragraph and at the beginning of the text); others consider only ready-to-use self-forming ones to be structural, i.e. those that acquire a random unique relief when dried. We adhere to the second point of view, since the technology of applying those and others is very different: some need to be finished with hands in the presence of a fairly developed artistic taste, while others are simply smeared with a spatula, and the final result does not depend on the will and desire of the master.

Self-forming ready-made plasters are produced in industrial conditions, but the choice is unusually rich, and the range is constantly expanding. They are made on acrylic with synthetics, suitable for interior decoration of any premises.

Running textures - bark beetle (second and third from the left), terraco, extreme right - cheaper thanks to mineral filler; are obtained by rolling with a roller and grouting over the top with a spatula. Structural plasters are easily supplemented with screen plasters, because relief is low.

Video: structural plastering

Flock

Flock is German for snowflake. Flocks (not ice, of course) are sprayed with a special sprayer onto a plastered surface covered with glue, see left in fig. After the glue dries, poorly adhered flocks are brushed off with a brush or brush and, also from a spray gun, acrylic varnish is applied. Flocks, adhesive and underlying plaster mix are sold ready to use in sets or individually. In this case, the packaging of the flocks indicates which underlying plaster and which adhesive they are compatible with.

Some craftsmen make flocks themselves, throw them in handfuls and blow, as soon as the glue starts to set, with a strong narrow stream of air from a vacuum cleaner to gently press down. Homemade flock plaster works well only on acrylic base; weakly adhere to silicone or mineral flocks.

Modeling

Modeling plasters, in essence, are a kind of flock: foreign granules are introduced into the ready-to-use mixture during its manufacture. By varying the composition of the mixture, the size, material and shape of the granules, coatings are obtained "lamb", under a fur coat, " Orange peel”,“ rain ”, etc., see prev. rice. Application technique - conventional or spraying.

Long gone are the days of total shortages generated by Soviet era. After all, then the decoration of the walls in the room was an understandable and simple matter. Today, a wide variety of finishing materials have appeared:

• the liquid wallpaper;
• facing panels;
• modern paints.

But decorative plaster is a real breakthrough in construction and repair technologies. This is absolutely not the plaster that is put under the wallpaper, but a completely new independent material.

Excellent qualities of decorative plaster do not need additional recommendations. Two rooms, even finished by the same person using the same materials and techniques, will never be the same. Each is exclusive, because the pattern of plaster on the wall cannot be repeated. With its help, you can create interesting effects, you just need to master the necessary technique. This coating is very durable to various kinds harmful effects. It is difficult to get it dirty, but if it somehow happened, it is easy to wash it off.

The plaster is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful chemical compounds.

In addition, it improves the soundproofing of the walls. In stores, such material is sold in dry form, it is made on the basis of binders. As fillers, crumbs, sand, stones or fibers with the addition of antiseptics, dyes, thickeners can be used. In this article, we will tell you how to make decorative wall plaster with your own hands, what methods and materials exist for this, and also demonstrate photo and video instructions.

Conventionally, plaster is divided into:

• interior.

Facade plaster is much more resistant to aggressive environmental influences and is used for external works. Interior, in turn, is divided into:

• mineral;
• silicate;
• latex.

There is also a classification according to the type of surface, which is the result. For example, under the "roller", "fur coat", "rust", etc.

In general, each type of plaster has its own characteristics in application. For example, expensive "Venetian" plaster is applied in several layers, in a special way that requires thorough professional skills, it can be coated with wax on top. This is beyond the power of a beginner, so it is better to turn to a professional.

If you still want to make repairs with your own hands, it is better to choose bark beetle type plaster. To apply it, you only need an ordinary spatula.

Working with ordinary decorative plaster will submit even to a beginner, because it is extremely difficult to spoil such a coating. And there is no need to prepare the walls too carefully - it will smooth out all the defects by itself. Such decorative wall plaster will also give a flight to your design ideas.

Preparing walls for finishing

It is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall from the remnants of the past coating (paint, wallpaper, etc.). Exfoliated areas are removed, and the cracks are sealed. This will be enough for bark beetle plaster, but Venetian and some other varieties require a perfectly flat surface.

After priming and drying the surface, it is necessary to determine whether the entire wall area will be plastered, or part of it will go under another coating.

Zones of different claddings can be separated using masking tape or window seals.

Minimum set of tools:

1. Spatulas of various sizes.
2. Grater (wooden or plastic).
3. Metal iron.
4. Tanks for solution and water.
5. Roller for textured plaster.

The solution should be prepared based on the recommendations on the package, then you will get the desired consistency. Moreover, you need to prepare such a portion in order to select it at a time, because otherwise the solution will “grab” right in the container. This is a job that does not tolerate long breaks.

The plaster must be applied with a spatula. When it thickens a little, you can walk on it with a grater without undue pressure, creating the necessary pattern. It is better to practice in a small area first.

To create a unique relief, a spatula, a grater and your own hands are enough. You can use any improvised means.

Most often, beginners create rains of different directions on the walls, circles, waves, crossed lines. The most simple in execution is the horizontal relief. You can also use a special figured roller, then applying the pattern is much easier.

All this must be done at the maximum pace, because the layer of plaster dries very quickly. It is necessary to pay special attention to the joints of the sections in order to avoid sagging.

If your wall was prepared for different types of coatings, then the adhesive tape in the areas where the zones are separated must be removed before the plaster is completely dry, later it will be more difficult to do this, and minor defects may remain.

After complete drying (usually about 24 hours), the plaster must be treated with fine sandpaper, which will remove all excess.

On this wall decoration with decorative plaster can be considered finished. But there are people who are not satisfied with this, and they want to paint the wall. In this case, you should use only high-quality paint that is resistant to moisture, sunlight and mechanical stress.

When carrying out work, you must first paint the textured areas of the surfaces, and only then smooth ones.

After the first layer has dried, a second layer of paint should be applied.

For finishing the facade, decorative bark beetle plaster is increasingly used. Even an apprentice can apply it, the main thing is to get acquainted with the technology and adhere to it as accurately as possible.

As a rule, bark beetle is used for facade works, but because of the attractive texture, this type of decorative plaster has recently been used in interior design, for example, in eco style.

Bark beetle is used to finish vertical surfaces, but if you have experience in this matter, then you can even apply it to the ceiling.

Wall preparation and primer

Before applying the bark beetle, you need to putty the surface of the walls, if we are talking about plastered walls. It is very practical to apply the bark beetle directly on the foam, previously pasted on the facade of the house. Alignment will be reduced to grouting.

In order to avoid the formation of cracks at the joints of the foam, a reinforcing mesh should be used when applying putty.

To achieve proper adhesion of the plaster to the wall, a primer should be used, which contains quartz sand, which provides excellent adhesion of the plaster to the wall base.

The products of the manufacturer Ceresit are most in demand on the market. If you decide to purchase such a primer, then you should use the ST 16 brand for decorative plaster.

The walls are coated with a primer shortly before applying the bark beetle. At a temperature of +20ºС, the primed surface will dry within 30 minutes. Composition consumption - 150 g / m 2.

The primer is slightly translucent from under the plaster, so its color should be as close as possible to the color of the bark beetle. To do this, it should simply be tinted in the shade corresponding to the color of the bark beetle.

If the bark beetle will be applied to cement-sand plaster, then there is no need to prime the surface. Just wet the wall an hour before applying the bark beetle. For maximum adhesion, moisten the base with plenty of water.

On the market you can buy a ready-mix, it can be Ceresit CT 63 or a dry mix that you will need to prepare yourself. If we talk about the price, then from an economic point of view it is better to purchase a dry mix, since it is cheaper.

To prepare decorative plaster from a dry mix, you will need a drill with a mixing attachment, water and a mixing container.

The bark beetle dries quickly and should not be mixed with water. Therefore, make a small batch, especially if you have no experience in working with decorative plaster.

Given the size of the marble chips, the amount of bark beetle is calculated. For the small XS fraction, the consumption is 700 g/m2, for XL - 1700 g/m2, and for XXL - 2000 g/m2. To make the joints invisible, you need to apply the bark beetle on the wall at a time.

So, to prepare the mixture, pour the amount of water indicated on the package into a container. In this case, the water temperature should not exceed 15-20ºС. Introduce the dry mixture into the water gradually, while stirring the composition with a drill with a mixer nozzle. Leave the finished plaster for 10 minutes, and then mix again.

Only acrylic-based bark beetle can be tinted, all other types of plaster are best painted on top.

The main thing when applying bark beetle is to distribute the composition evenly over the surface. This can be done with a metal trowel 30 cm long. You can remove excess bark beetle from it with a spatula 10 cm long.

The bark beetle layer should correspond to the size of the marble chips, that is, within 2–3 mm. it important condition, because if the layer is too thin, the primer will be very visible, as a result of which the protective properties of the finish will be worsened. Well, if the layer of plaster is too thick, then the texture of the bark beetle will not be visible and the appearance of the facade / interior finish will suffer.

Since, as mentioned above, the bark beetle dries quickly, you will have to work just as quickly. To make the surface of the walls as uniform as possible, it is better to apply the plaster at a time. But if this is unrealistic due to the large area of ​​​​the wall, then separate the strip with masking tape and apply the composition slightly on top of the adhesive tape. Then separate the adhesive tape without waiting for the plaster to dry. Continue applying the plaster in the same way until the entire wall is covered.

Trituration

The most crucial stage of work is rubbing the bark beetle. It depends on him what the final picture on the wall will be. This work should be started immediately after the plaster begins to dry (after about 20 minutes). If the palm does not stick to the wall, then you can start rubbing, which is done with a plastic trowel.

When grinding marble chips, chaotic depressions are formed.

Thus, you can get the desired effect:

• "Lamb" - the pattern is formed due to short circular movements. So, chaotic furrows remain on the wall, which are visually similar to the wool of a lamb.
• "Rain" is the most common rubbing technique. It is created by movements up and down. So, you get a vertical rain. If you do the rubbing from the upper left corner to the lower right, then the rain will be diagonal. To keep the grinding angle unchanged, you can mark the wall with masking tape.
• "Carpet" - rubbing should be carried out in alternating movements up and down and left and right.

If you are unable to apply the plaster in one go, then do not rub it to the very edge. Better finish the next part of the wall, and then carefully rub the joints. Thus, you can make an imperceptible transition.

You can paint the walls the next day after applying the bark beetle. Painting has some advantages over tinting plaster. After the bark beetle has dried without color, you can finally level the layer with sandpaper. Plaster with color cannot be leveled in this way, as worn pieces will be noticeable.

Painting provides more opportunities for design work. This aspect is especially relevant when using bark beetle in interior design.

The grooves underlined by a dark shade look very impressive. To achieve it, you first need to paint the wall dark color. After the coat of paint has dried, apply a second lighter coat of paint. In this case, the second layer must be applied with a semi-dry roller. In this case, the paint will not penetrate into the grooves, and they will remain dark. The consumption of the coloring composition is 300 g/m 2 .

To improve the performance of the walls (this is especially appropriate for interior wall decoration), you can varnish them - glossy or with sparkles.

Preparation for applying home-made decorative plaster made from putty begins with determining the room in which it will be applied to the walls. The choice of texture, the collection of tools and even the method of mixing the composition depend on this.

So, to successfully decorate the walls with putty, you will need:

1. Putty.
2. Mixing container.
3. Spatula and trowel.
4. Metal grater.
5. Construction mixer.
6. Polyethylene film for pattern or package.

Take measurements of the walls, which will allow you to roughly calculate the amount of starting material for finishing. The approximate consumption of putty indicated on the package will help you with this. To save money, you can purchase putty in powder form. To make a solution in this case, you will need:

• 6 kg of dry putty;
• 200 g of PVA glue;
• 2 liters of water.

Dilute the putty with water in a suitable container. You can do this with a mixer. You should get a homogeneous mass. Then add PVA to the mixture and again bring it to homogeneity.

For wall decoration in rooms with a low level of humidity, you can use gypsum or cement plaster. And for rooms with a high level of humidity, it is better to use cement.

If the walls are damaged, then all the crumbling parts must be cleaned. All recesses should be covered with cement. So, you can level the walls. If the surface is unreliable, then a plaster mesh should be glued on it, which you will subsequently putty.

After the putty layer dries, rub it so that the surface is even. Then the walls should be primed. Use for these purposes the composition of deep penetration.

Applying homemade plaster

There are several ways to apply decorative plaster, made with putty yourself:

1. Scales. Apply putty with a layer of 3-5 mm thick, and then make vertical strokes with a spatula having a width of 10 cm. After the composition dries, it can be painted in the desired color.
2. Rock. Start applying a thin layer of putty from the top corner of the wall. The layer should be approximately 3 mm. Then take a metal trowel and attach it so that one side of it remains in the air, actually does not touch the wall. Without taking your hands off, draw straight lines along the putty.
3. Cave. Put putty on the wall, level it. Then, with a piece of polyethylene compressed in a lump, make a pattern by pressing it against the wall. This can be done in another way by attaching a covering film to the wall. It will need to be torn off the putty in a day.
4. Putty Venetian. Type a little putty on the spatula, make uneven strokes with it. After 24 hours, sand the walls with fine-grained sandpaper. If you only need to erase sharp corners, then make it a mesh. Prime the surface and let it dry. Paint the wall with a base color, then a surface color. Immediately after application, it must be slightly wiped off the convex parts of the plaster with a damp cloth. Ultimately, the walls should be waxed/acrylic based/gold lacquered.
5. To create an original pattern, you can use other stamps from improvised materials. For example, pieces of foam rubber, branches, polystyrene, flowers, fabric cuts, a roller wrapped with fabric, stencils, etc.

After your homemade decorative plaster has dried, paint it or open it with colored wax.

In general, this science is simple and even an inexperienced "plasterer" can do it. If you did everything right, the interior of your home will delight you with originality and originality for many years.

A photo

Video

We bring to your attention a series of videos about various decorative plasters and how to apply them:

If you want to order wall decoration with decorative plaster, we recommend that you turn to professionals, since the price of this product is very high. You can find out the cost of decorative plaster on the websites of companies producing decorative coatings. Also pay attention to Venetian plaster, it is great for covering walls.