Do-it-yourself brick paths in the country house. Do-it-yourself old brick paths

Over the past 5000 years, the methods of paving flat surfaces with bricks have not changed, although they are now used in a slightly different way. Now such methods are used for the device borders of flower beds and pools. However, most often brick paving with or without mortar is used for arranging paths and platforms.

Brief job description

For paving, a special brick is produced - clinker, which comes in different thicknesses, as a rule, thinner than usual, as well as different shapes and sizes. Similar results can be achieved when paving paths with concrete blocks specially designed for this purpose with standard sizes.

In warm areas, the brick can be laid directly on solid ground, however, to increase the durability of the track, it is better to lay the brick on a layer of sand and check the levelness with a level. And even in this case, every few years you have to dismantle the path and lay the brick again.

A more reliable way to lay bricks without mortar is to tamper with a rented vibrator. (described below) which allows you to get a paved driveway surface that can withstand even the weight of cars. Flat vibrators can only compact bricks with a thickness of more than 50 mm, and such paths or platforms must have borders of bricks laid on concrete (item 2 below). If the surface is paved by hand, then the curb can be made of bricks placed directly into the ground.

A durable surface can be obtained by laying mortar bricks on a concrete slab. The base may be old, such as an existing walkway or platform, or new, arranged in accordance with the rules for laying lightweight concrete slabs. In both cases, it is better to do this work in two stages: first, laying the bricks on the mortar, then, after the mortar layer has hardened, filling the joints with a thick mortar.

Do-it-yourself cement mortar

Four solution recipes

Lime-cement mortar			Plasticized mortar
Normal solution	Volumetric ratio		Volumetric ratio	Mortar yield per 50 kg of cement
	1 part cement 1 part slaked lime 6 parts sand		1 part cement 5-6 parts sand with plasticizer
Lasting solution	1 part cement 0.5 part slaked lime 4-4.5 parts of sand		1 part cement 3-4 parts sand with plasticizer

Solution preparation

Pour the required amount of sand into the wheelbarrow (or other container), add lime or plasticizer. With a shovel, make a small indentation, add cement to it and mix until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Make a well again, add water and stir until all lumps disappear.

Approximately half a liter of water is needed per kilogram of cement. Add water gradually until a solution with the consistency of warm oil is obtained. To check the viscosity, make a curved furrow in the solution. If its edges do not blur and the solution slides freely off the shovel, then it is ready. If the furrow blurs, the solution is too wet - add some dry materials. If the solution does not slide off the shovel, it is too dry - add water little by little.

Types of borders

straight line

straight line

The simplest of the borders is a straight line of bricks placed vertically with a wide edge to the surface of the masonry. If you lay the bricks with a narrow edge towards the surface, they will look more contrasting with the bricks that pave the site. However, this requires twice as many bricks.

smooth curve

smooth curve

Sector-shaped bricks can be purchased for the curve device, but they are expensive. A smooth curve can also be obtained from ordinary brick by laying it as shown in the figure and filling the seams with a strong mortar made according to one of the recipes above.

sawtooth curb

sawtooth curb

A row of bricks laid on edge at a 45-degree slope creates an optical illusion where the curb appears to be made up of a row of triangular bricks. To increase this illusion, remove the soil a little less depth so that the curb is above the ground level.

Attention: when laying such a row, the lower ends of the bricks must be firmly held in concrete, and the upper ends are set strictly at the same level.

wooden border

Formwork for laying concrete fits perfectly into the construction of a brick-paved site. Install it just below ground level so that the boards and stakes are not visible.

wooden border

Pavement paving without mortar

1. Test laying

Measure and mark out the site as you would for a concrete slab, then calculate the required amount of bricks for paving without mortar . To estimate the final dimensions so that the soil can be removed, lay out a row of bricks along the border of the site and inside. When marking out the site, allow a gap of 100 mm beyond the outer boundaries. If you decide to pave with a simple pattern, for example, a rectangular one without dressing, you can save time by laying out only the borders, and leave the middle empty. But the side rows should be laid out completely.

2. Excavation

Remove the brick you laid out for testing and remove the soil layer 50mm deeper than the thickness of the brick. The depth is assumed to be the same everywhere, regardless of the terrain, and the walls of the recess should be as vertical as possible. Then, with a trowel, dig a trench along the borders of the paving area so that it is 100 mm wider than the bricks and deep enough to lay a layer of concrete 100 mm thick, on which the frieze bricks are laid, the upper edges of which should be flush with the rest of the bricks. Lay a 100 mm thick general purpose concrete layer in the trench and lay out a row of frieze (boundary) bricks while the concrete is ductile. They should form an even vertical wall around the site. Install a board to support the bricks on the site side and fill the trench at the outer edge two-thirds with concrete. Lay sod or soil on top and leave for three days to mature.

3. Sand cushion device

Pack the base soil, place a pad of sharp-grained sand (which is used to make concrete) and level the sand. The level of sand relative to the curb should be such that the bricks laid on it are 10 mm higher than the curb before laying them with a vibrator. If you are going to lay the brick by hand, then after laying on the sand it should be flush with the curb. When laying the site, place two parallel bars on the ground and level the sand with the help of a rule board. To level the sand base of the path, use .

4. Laying bricks

Lay the first two bricks in the corner of the site. After that, pull the cord for even laying of the entire row. Continue laying the next rows of bricks until you reach the edge of the site - there should be a gap of 10 mm between the last row and the curb.

If tamping with a vibrator is not provided, check the level of the horizontal laying of each brick. Knock down bricks with a mallet and, if necessary, add or remove sand. Then, if there is no vibrator, go to the instructions to complete the job. (below, after 5 and 6 points).

5. Working with a vibrator

Rent a gasoline-powered flat vibrator and walk around the site two or three times to place the bricks firmly in the sand. They will drop approximately 10 mm and the surface of the site will be flush with the curb. Do not walk on bricks before ramming with a vibrator.

6. Filling the joints with sand

Sprinkle the area with a thin layer of sand and make two more passes with the vibrator to fill the seams. Work with a helper, whom you ask to put sand under the vibrator, as when tamping sand moves out from under the vibrator forward.

Completing the site paving when working without a vibrator

Filling the seams with sand

After laying and leveling all the bricks, scatter a bucket of sand with acute-angled grains on the site. Use your hand or a brush to fill the joints between the bricks with sand. (below left). After filling all the seams, carefully sweep away the remaining sand by moving the brush diagonally. (lower right) so as not to sweep the sand out of the joints. It may be necessary to fill the joints with sand twice after the sand has shrunk.

Mortar paving

1. Arranging a curb around an existing concrete slab

When bricking an existing slab, check its condition and levelness. If you want to make a new concrete pad, make it with general purpose concrete without formwork, as described above. If the site is at ground level, it is not necessary to make a curb, but if its level is above ground level, it is necessary to hide it with a beta and protect the bricks of the outer rows from moisture and wear.

Make a groove along the perimeter of the slab approximately two brick thicknesses wide and deep enough so that the brick placed on the end is flush with the surface of the finished site. (When calculating, add 10mm of mortar to the thickness of the brick.) Rinse the curb bricks thoroughly and set them in the groove with a gap of 10mm (use your index finger or a piece of wood of the appropriate thickness to set the gap). Press the curb bricks against the concrete slab by filling the groove with concrete and compacting it. At the same time, check the height of the bricks above the concrete platform with a level and a ruler; it, as already mentioned, should be equal to the thickness of the brick plus a layer of mortar 10 mm thick.

2. Preparation for laying bricks

Lay the bricks dry to check the width and length of the site, leaving gaps between them of 10 mm. If necessary, you can slightly reduce or increase the gap in order to fit an integer number of bricks in each row. When laying on the mortar, you can leave one of the test rows for the sample.

Prepare a strong solution (according to one of the recipes above) in batches of 0.02 cu. m for laying 2 sq. m of brick with a mortar layer thickness of 10 mm. If the total paving area is less than 4 sq. m, you can prepare a solution for the whole job at once. In other cases, cook no more than 0.02 cubic meters. m. This amount is enough for you for about an hour of work, after which the solution will begin to set. Level the mortar and make grooves in it with a notched trowel or the end of a trowel.

3. Brick laying

Wet the bricks and lay them along the cord on the mortar with a smooth surface upwards. Lay a full row and only after that start laying the next one. Press the brick into the mortar with your hand and slightly upset it with the handle of the trowel. Level check the horizontal position when laying each brick.

4. Filling the joints with mortar

A day later, and preferably two or three days after laying the bricks on the mortar, prepare a hard mortar to fill the gaps between the bricks. The mortar must be drier than the mortar normally used for masonry. Mix 1 part cement with 3 parts sand and add just a little water. A ball of such a solution should break easily.

Wet the bricks and fill the gaps between the bricks with hard mortar. For work, you can use cutting or jointing, which you need to tightly push the solution. Fill the joints with mortar so that they are slightly overfilled. Use a trowel to remove excess mortar, being careful not to leave it on the surface. Expand the seams, deepening them by 1-2 mm, so that rainwater can drain through the resulting grooves. For deepening, you can use a stiff brush. Wipe off all traces of mortar with a damp sponge and spray the area with a spray hose. Leave to soak for a day or two.

DIY brick path: step by step instructions, mortar recipes

For the construction of do-it-yourself paths in the country, not only special materials intended for paving are often used. A favorite way to improve the garden plot is to use the surplus materials left over from the construction of the house. In particular, wall bricks are often used to create platforms and paths.

What types of bricks are suitable for paving

The attractiveness of the idea - to pave the paths in the country with bricks, is due to a number of reasons:

• such material often remains after construction is completed, that is, it is practically “free”;
• the modular dimensions of the bricks are convenient for carrying and doing the work yourself without partners;
• to the uninitiated eye, the brick pavement seems to be reliable and durable.

In fact, the strength characteristics of tracks made from ordinary wall bricks leave much to be desired. It does not depend on the choice of its variety: silicate or red (it does not matter if it is hollow or full-bodied). The desire to save money and make paths out of bricks can lead to disappointment after the first winter. Under the influence of water and frost, brick blocks delaminate, split into small pieces. The porous structure of baked brick clay is saturated with moisture and becomes fragile. Therefore, it will be possible to use cheap material only in dry, elevated areas with good drainage, or completely protected from precipitation.

The easiest way to lay out a brick path:

Many reliable modern materials specifically designed for paving are made in a form that allows you to imitate brickwork:

1. Paving stones. Produced by vibrocasting or vibrocompression. Vibropressed paving stones have a higher quality and strength. The addition of concrete dyes makes it even more brick-like. Different thickness of products (from 4 to 8 cm) allows you to choose paving stones for a summer residence, depending on future loads - from paths between beds to a parking area.
2. Clinker brick. High-strength and very beautiful material has long been popular in Europe, is gaining more and more fans among summer residents. Of course, its price is higher than that of most varieties of paving stones and is close in cost to natural sawn stone. But the assortment of clinker allows you to choose the color and texture of the surface that satisfy the most demanding taste. Clinker bricks are extremely durable. If you get diamond wheels for a grinder that allow you to make the necessary cuts, each craftsman can easily lay out a path of clinker bricks in the country with his own hands.

Preparatory work

Having outlined the location of the path network on the plan, they begin to mark it. It is convenient to do this with the help of pegs and a cord. In the process of laying out, it is determined in which direction to create a slope of the roadway for the flow of water and melted snow. Sufficient slope parameters are 1-2º per linear meter.

As with most other methods of building paths in the country with your own hands, within the marked boundaries, you need to dig a foundation pit for the foundation. It consists of a tightly compacted layer of crushed stone (20 cm) and a leveling layer of sand (about 5 cm). Compaction of crushed stone is carried out with a vibrating plate or manual devices. For better compaction, sand is shed with water.

Using a flat board or building rule level the surface of the sand, not forgetting the slope. Bricks are laid either on sand or on a dry cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:4.

Arrangement of curbs and laying bricks during the construction of the path

Since the size of the brick module is small (usually 10x20 cm), without installing limiters along the edges of the track, it may not stay within the allotted boundaries and spread. This can happen both during installation and afterwards. To prevent this from happening, use ready-made sidewalk curbs. In their absence, the role of limiters is played by bricks placed on edge and fixed with mortar.

A border of bricks is fixed at the border of the track with mortar

In the process of self-construction, the paths also use temporary boundaries made of durable boards, which are then removed. A well-packed base and neatly and precisely set curbs will serve as a guarantee of the reliability of brick paving done by one's own hands.

Starting paving, they begin to lay bricks one by one on sand or a dry cement-sand mixture and punch them with a mallet. The horizon is leveled with a manual bubble level. The stacked rows are pushed closer to each other, hitting the board applied to the side with a mallet.

Choice of paving patterns

Depending on the general design and style of landscape design of the dacha, various types of brickwork are used:

• straight, with row shift;
• diagonal;
• parquet;
• circular;
• scaly (Venetian masonry) and their numerous varieties.

An example of straight masonry with a shift of half a brick

Additional effects are created by ornaments of several colors or a selection of shades of bricks with different firing intensities.

The final stage of creating a brick path. Bug fixes and repairs

After the masonry is finished, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the bricks. Most often, ordinary sand is used for this, since the cement-sand mixture can leave ugly whitish stains on the surface. A layer of clean sifted sand is poured onto the path and swept into the cracks with a brush. The operation is repeated several times, alternating with the passage from the hose.

Filling cracks with sand

After winter, defects may appear on the surface of the track: subsidence, bulging, bricks destroyed or spread to the sides. You can start fixing them with your own hands, waiting for the soil to dry. The coating from the defective area is removed and the base is leveled. Then the paving is restored.

Clinker paving. Effectively selected shades of terracotta of different degrees of firing

We will tell you a few tricks of landscape design, how ordinary garden paths, using optical laws and the rules of perspective, will help make your cottage more beautiful.


Long brick garden paths will not be so boring and dull if they are crossed by transverse lines. It can be wooden or concrete beams, brickwork in a perpendicular direction. The same result gives a combination of slabs and brickwork.


If a brick path expands near the porch of the house, then it seems shorter, if it narrows, it looks longer. The garden path, widening near the porch, creates the effect of a front platform in front of the house.

If you want to increase the space of a summer cottage, make paths in the country with a smooth bend. So even the smallest yard will look very impressive.


The correct forms in landscape design, such as circles and squares, visually greatly reduce the space. Therefore, try to avoid the correct forms for garden paths and areas if you have a small garden plot.


You can choose any trendy design for your garden path or front yard, but there are two important things you need to keep in mind - harmony with the main building and functionality. Pedestrian paths can be narrower, but not less than a meter, and do not require a massive, expensive bed of gravel and sand. If you use the site in front of the house as a driveway, it must have a reliable foundation, otherwise, the brickwork may warp and crack.

There are several options for paving a garden path with bricks. In any case, a pillow for the path is first prepared: pegs with a cord are driven in along the contour of the path, the soil is removed, 10-15 cm of crushed stone is poured, the crushed stone is compacted, 3-5 cm of sand is poured on top, on top of which a brick is laid. The seams between the bricks are filled with wet sand, after which the surface of the path is leveled and covered with dry sand. Finally, the excess sand is washed off with water.


Very beautiful garden paths are obtained from a combination of brick and natural stone. In this variant of paving, laying is carried out on lean concrete. For such a path, it is necessary to make a 1-3% slope away from the building, because. the seams in this track will not be able to absorb and channel excess moisture. When laying on a prepared gravel-sand cushion, a layer of wet concrete is poured, bricks and slabs are laid, the masonry is watered. After that, all seams on the track are tightly sealed with a special solution.


However, there is a catch in the method of laying a garden path on concrete: some natural stones react with concrete and become covered with sloppy stains over time. Therefore, with this choice, consultation with a specialist in natural materials is necessary.

Special clinker bricks for paving garden paths have a beautiful natural shade and allow you to use not only the front side of the brick, but also the side when laying, creating room for imagination: this is paving with a spiral, squares, beautiful curves.

Garden paths are an integral part of landscape design. They are built from different building materials: stone, concrete, brick, wood, and so on. This article will talk about brick paths. Or rather, about the technology of their paving.

Source housesdesign.ru

How to lay a path in the garden from ordinary brick

So, let's start with the fact that this requires a solid brick, that is, without any holes and voids. It must be of high quality, because the long-term operation of the garden alley will depend on this.

Additionally, you will need sand and geotextiles. Instead of sand, you can use gravel, crushed stone or a mixture of sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1: 1.

Source stroyshans.ru

First stage - determine track width and apply its contours to the site. If this is an alley from the gate to the house, then its width can be torn up to 2 m. If this is a garden path, then within 80 cm.

Markup is carried out or chalk powder, or pegs, between which a twine (twine) is pulled. In this case, the path itself does not have to be straight. Bends, bends, turns, connections with two or three paths are common in landscape design.

The second stage for the construction of brick garden paths - excavation. Their volume depends on whether the brick will sink into the ground or remain on the surface. In the first case, the depth of the ditch under the path is 15 cm, plus the thickness of the brick. In the second case - only 15 cm.

The bottom of the trench is leveled and tamped. Then they fall asleep with a 15-centimeter layer of coarse-grained sand, which is also leveled and compacted. Better with water.

Third stage - brick laying. If it is not recessed into the ground, then you will first have to install limiters along the borders. These can be temporary items or permanent ones. The bricks themselves, laid on edge, are temporary. Or metal or wooden pins driven into the ground. You can even use boards. That is, with the help of these elements, the border of the alley is formed, plus stops that will not allow the bricks to “disperse” in different directions.

Permanent stops (limiters) should be discussed separately.

Source mdv63.ru

How to form the borders of the garden path

There are several options.

The first one is the easiest. The borders are formed from the bricks themselves. In order for them to have a high bearing capacity, brick blocks are installed vertically in length. That is, half is buried in the ground, the second half will stick out above the ground. No bonding solutions and additional materials. The main thing is to accurately calculate the required amount for both the track and the curbs.

Of course, the vertical position of the bricks in the thrust device is optional. They can be laid in length horizontally or with a slight slope. In the latter case, the corners of the blocks will drink outward, which will significantly distinguish them from the bulk of the building material laid on the plane of the path. The photo below shows just such an option.

Source induced.info

The second option is to use ready-made borders made of concrete or stone. On the market, you can pick up these elements of landscape design in length, width and thickness, which is very convenient. For example, massive curbs are suitable for wide alleys, miniature ones for narrow ones.

Source derevyanny.com

The third option is a monolithic filled curb. It is made from concrete mortar, which is poured into the installed formwork. Usually pouring is done to the entire depth of the excavated pit. The height of the protruding part may be greater than the thickness of the brick being laid. The width is within 5-10 cm. Subsequently, the concrete border is painted or lined, for example, with ceramic tiles. If the concrete product is well polished, then it is not necessary to cover it with anything for decoration. Concrete and brick themselves look good in a bunch.

The fourth option is special corner bricks. They are laid in the masonry of the garden path. However, they must be mounted along the edge of the structure. It is with their short side that they are held in the ground, preventing the finishing elements from moving apart.

Source ecoohotnadzor31.ru

On our website you can find the most . In the filters, you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.

Fifth option- these are special small sizes posts made of concrete. They can be round, rectangular or polygonal. For example, the diameter of round products varies in the range of 10-12 cm, the length is up to 30 cm. They are simply installed on the border of the path, often "planted" on a concrete solution. Be sure to align everything in height.

Source mdv63.ru

In principle, there are a huge number of options for forming the boundaries of country paths made of bricks. Let's add to those already mentioned:

a rock;

rubble concrete, this is when the stones are poured with concrete mortar;

paving slabs, installed on the edge;

paving stones;

plastic pipes closed with plugs.

Brick installation

So, the ditch for the path is ready, the boundaries are formed. It remains only to lay the brick itself. First of all, you need to decide on the layout of the masonry. There aren't many options here. The simplest - according to the type of bandage, when the elements of the cladding are laid with an offset of half the stone. And other schemes:

herringbone;

interspersed a whole brick and a half;

parquet styling;

curly.

We will not argue which option is better or worse, easier or more difficult, cheaper or more expensive. Just mark them in the photo below. And already each owner of a suburban area decides for himself what he likes.

Source urs-ufa.ru

And one moment. Which brick to choose for this in terms of its color. Here again, the owner of the cottage decides. But keep in mind that red brick garden paths look bright, they well divide the site into zones. They are difficult to hide even with vegetation, but it is this fact that makes it possible to focus on the layout of the paths. This option enhances the functionality of landscape design.

Many designers are trying to diversify the approach to the design of alleys. Therefore, bricks of different colors are combined. But here you have to be careful. Especially the paths of the local area. This element should not become the main design. It should emphasize the architecture and decoration of the house, and not set it off.

So, we go directly to the section of laying the path in the country house made of bricks. Immediately make a reservation that the main tool for this process is the building level. Because each brick must be placed on the horizon. At the same time, it should be in the same plane with the rest of the stones.

Source superdom.ua

Laying can be started from either end of the path. Exactly according to the chosen scheme, each brick is installed. Finishing elements are installed close to each other or leave a small gap between them. There is no need to strengthen the material with masonry mortar. If some brick is laid above the rest, then it is removed, the layer of sand bedding is removed and set in place. If, on the contrary, it turned out to be lower, then a little more sand or gravel is poured under the block.

If the width of the track is large, then the process of laying bricks can be carried out according to the level, which is a thread stretched between two pegs. That is, they hammer two pegs along the edges of the ditch, tie a thread to one of them, pull its free end to the opposite peg, set it horizontally using a level and tie it. It is along this stretched thread that they lay bricks in one row.

When the entire garden alley is laid with bricks, its plane is sprinkled with sand so that it fills the seams between the trim elements. Gradually sweep the sand from one edge to the opposite with a broom or brush. After that, it is better to pour plenty of water over the entire path. And then again fill it with sand so that it complements the shrunken layer.

Video description

The video shows how to build a garden brick path:

English track

There is such a term in landscape design. In fact, these are paths made of old brick. They are laid without borders and other limiters. That is, a path is formed in the form of a ditch, where sand is poured, and old bricks are laid on top of it. Their upper plane should be located on the level of the ground or be slightly higher.

This is the easiest option that does not require a lot of money and time. The only requirement is no vegetation that would grow between the cladding elements. Therefore, the bottom of the excavated ditch is covered with geotextile. This material will not allow plants to break through, but it passes water through itself well. The geotextile is laid in such a way that it also covers the walls of the pit.

If this non-woven material is not available, then a gap of 1-2 cm is left between the bricks, which is subsequently filled with cement-sand mortar. Just such an option is shown in the photo below.

English brick path Source pinterest.com

Conclusion on the topic

So, we figured out the bricks for the paths in the country, considered the options and technologies for forming alleys, and also outlined several ways to make the boundaries of the paths. It should be noted that brick alleys are not the most durable, say, like stone or concrete. Under the influence of water, sub-zero temperatures, ice and snow, the brick quickly fails. It starts to crack, flake and break. This is especially true for material from the "used" category. But even from an old brick, the path will last at least 10 years. And this is with a small financial investment.

Each personal plot ideally has a system of paths and paths.

They must be clearly designed in advance, because it is the shortest path from one object to another that will make your stay on the territory as comfortable and cozy as possible.

At the same time, if the tracks are located correctly on the territory, then this can save a lot of personal time and effort.

When it comes to the beginning of work, most people immediately have a question about how to lay out the track, what materials to use, their main quality characteristics, how to correctly and competently make a breakdown. Therefore, everything should be told in order.

The main types of garden paths made of stone and brick

All paths, in a style decision, are of two types: landscape (that is, smooth, winding and rounded shapes, always asymmetrical) and regular (located in a straight direction or diagonally, symmetry in all directions is characteristic).

As for the materials that are used for their device, there are several main types.

Stone garden paths are one of the most popular, due to the many options for paving and device methods. Also, the decorative effect of such elements is very high.

Stone is considered a natural material. Due to its strength, the path will serve its owners for a long time. Due to some of its properties, such as special decorativeness, naturalness, beauty, strength and durability, this material has gained wide application not only for laying paths, but also in landscape design in general.

By texture, you can find a smooth surface, and rough, and quite rough. In the color spectrum, stone paving is widely represented (green, red, gray, black, and other colors). However, there are still disadvantages - this is the cost, weight. The most expensive include marble, granite, porphyry and basalt. For a budget option - sandstone and limestone.

If the cost of the second option is approximately 150-500 rubles / m 2, then the price of the first is on average from 1 thousand rubles / m 2, some copies can reach 14 thousand rubles / m 2.

Stone for paving paths can be of 2 types - processed or not subjected to such a process. Therefore, several types can be distinguished in shape: flat, round, decorative, due to the natural image. However, the tracks still turn out to be aesthetic and attractive.

Brick garden paths are constantly in competition with the first type in popularity, due to good technical and quality characteristics.

Brick for the device tracks has a specific name - clinker. Such material is generally not able to absorb moisture. And the laying technology is very simple, in three layers: pebbles, or crushed stone - concrete mortar - brick. All seams must be sealed with a special mixture. Lawn grass is often sown between them, which creates a special effect.

It can be argued that most people have such material in their plots. And therefore, using it, own funds will not be spent. A garden path made of old brick will last a long time, not succumbing to the negative effects of the environment. This option will also be very economical, from the financial point of view, and practical.

A path made of broken bricks requires laying out on a previously prepared sand cushion, followed by sealing all the cracks. Thanks to the presence of such material, you can not be afraid that on a rainy day it will become slippery and uncomfortable. Therefore, safety for movement in any weather will be ensured.

Concrete paths for the garden conquered their owners with strength and durability.

But aesthetics remains almost in last place, which indicates low performance, and additional work to decorate the element itself. This can be done by pressing various stones, glass pieces, resulting in a beautiful mosaic.

Combined garden paths allow you to make the site even more diverse and beautiful. This is achieved by combining several materials. For example, colored tiles with gravel, paving stones with bricks.

The number of options and combinations in paving garden paths is simply amazing. Therefore, any owner of a summer cottage will be able to make a path with his own hands, either from bricks or from stones. It will only be necessary to choose the right materials. The main thing is fantasy and skill.

Interesting design ideas:

Dry stream - this design is achieved by giving the path a winding and smooth outline. You can use gravel as a cover, and perennial flowering plants, cereals or some shrubs will look beautiful around.

Patterned path - you can create a design idea using multi-colored stones laid out in certain ornaments and patterns.

An interesting option is a garden path made of stones, neatly laid out, between which backfill is used (pebbles, wood chips, lawn grass can be sown, etc.).

Self-laying paths in the country

Some do not even realize that laying a path in the country can be a completely independent process that does not require a lot of time and effort. The main thing is to know the specific steps for improvement that will help to cope with this task.

Consider such a process using the example of paving stone paths. The most popular material is sandstone, which looks decent and its price is considered one of the most attractive. The main characteristics are frost resistance, density, durability and strength.

The appearance of the material is represented by plates of torn shapes, of various sizes. In addition, the following products are made from sandstone: paving stones and flagstone.

In order to get a beautiful stone path in the garden, you will need the following materials and tools: a rubber mallet, a cord, a shovel, a building level, a trowel, sand and gravel.

Stages:

1. From the very beginning, the contours of the future track are drawn, which is done with the help of a cord that beats off the boundaries.
2. Digging up the earth on the bayonet of a shovel.
3. The gravel is backfilled and compacted.
4. Sand is poured on top, on which paving stones are laid, at the same time adjusted with a hammer.
5. And only then the building level is used, which checks the evenness of the almost finished garden path.
6. At the very end, everything is covered with sand to fill the cracks.

Here the path is ready, and in the presented video, you can learn more about the stages in the construction of a flagstone garden element:

The stone path in the garden, as well as brick, concrete, are the most sought-after, integral parts of any backyard territory. Therefore, its organization and arrangement requires a reverent and careful approach.

After all, it is worth constructing this element in the wrong place, at the wrong angle, as discomfort and inconvenience will immediately be felt. This also applies to the choice of building material, which will have to deal with for quite a long time.

If you apply all your ingenuity and creativity, then even the most modest summer cottage can turn into something unusual, fabulous and very beautiful.