Types of KEMbN (Zh "Brick bath stoves (heaters) come in two widows: periodic and continuous action. Traditional Russian baths were heated by dry stoves of periodic action 8 in the old days they were without chimneys and fired" in black. With chimneys, stoves began they began to build only sXIII ekaibani baths “in white”.

Periodic heaters cannot be heated during bathing procedures. Together with the steam from the heater, smoke will also enter the room. Such stoves are heated for five to seven hours or even more before bathing procedures. Cobblestones, heated by an open fire, heat up to 900C. and the steam from the heater is “dry”, curative and easily tolerable.

Continuous heaters, in which cobblestones are placed in insulated metaptme containers. appeared relatively recently. The advantage of such stoves is that it is possible to drown during bathing procedures, and the other thing is that the stones separated by the walls of the container from an open fire. they do not warm up above KO C Heat in such heaters it turns out - raw, burning the human body.

Fire fighting measures. When installing a periodic heater, it must be remembered that this design is the most fire hazardous of all household stoves. A ton of cobblestone heated to 90C-C and three to four tons of brickwork heated to a high temperature represent a great potential hazard. In order to avoid trouble, during the construction of the heater it is necessary to follow the rules of fire safety. True, there are no special rules for heaters. Moreover, some prohibitions and restrictions have recently been lifted and baths have been built, as anyone pleases - of immense size, two floors, with two-ton stone filling chambers, etc. And this, in my opinion, is unacceptable.

Features of the design and masonry of the heater. Kamenka stoves have structural differences from other stoves household purpose. So, they do not provide descending chimneys and. if the stove is large, an unoccupied space appears to the left and right of the blower. It is advisable to use it for arranging through niche channels in order to store poker, tongs and other utensils in them. They, among other things, increase the heat-releasing surface of the furnace.

In order for the firebox, which is made large in heaters, to get enough air to burn firewood, the blower and the blower door must also be of sufficient size.

For a more free flow of air into the firebox, it is better to lay the grate along the blower. But it is difficult to find grates for the entire length (depth) of the blower, so it is often necessary to lay short grates across the blower.

The firebox and the stone filling chamber are lined with fireclay bricks, which are best placed on a mortar (a solution of fireclay clay and fireclay with special additives) with an indent from the outer walls of the furnace of 8-10 mm. The lining will expand from high temperature, but the gap will protect the outer walls of the furnace from cracking. Instead of chamotte (chamotte - groats-), sand should not be used. It breaks down at high temperatures.

The firebox is arranged so that its height from the grate blows up to the laying of the cobblestone is 8-9 rows of masonry (56-63 cm). It is impossible to reduce this distance by bringing the cobblestone closer to the fire for more intense heating of the stones. In this case, the result will be the opposite.

The fact is that when burning wood, the highest temperature is at the top of the flame. At a short distance, the top of the flame will rest against the cobblestones, the flame temperature will decrease on them, and the unburned soot will settle on the surfaces of the stones and in the cracks between them.

Arch masonry. One of the problems when arranging large heaters is the arrangement of grates on which the stones are located. From the high temperature and gravity of the cobblestone, the grate is constantly deformed and fails. Even railway rails laid instead of grates can be deformed.

In the heater, instead of grates, it is better to do brick arches(or a vault with holes) on which rail segments can be laid. This will create a solid foundation for the stone filling.

Before laying an arch or vault, notches are made on the prepared formwork on the brick beds for better adhesion. Then the brick is rubbed or washed by briefly immersing it in water. It must be remembered that fireclay brick shouldn't get too wet.

First, the brick is laid without mortar - for - shooting *. When laying on a mortar, the bricks are upset by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet, and the castle one is upset more carefully. The solution should be of medium density.

After an hour and a half, the formwork must be dismantled, and 3-4 bricks should be placed on the arch. As a result, the arch will receive a prestress in order to withstand the loads from the stone backfill in the future. The mortar in the seams between the bricks of such an arch will be dense and durable, asama it will last a long time.

If the folded arch is left on the formwork for a week or longer, due to the large shrinkage of the masonry mortar, the solidity of the masonry will be disturbed (clay mortar has a volumetric shrinkage of up to 5%.) Slits invisible to the eye are formed between the bricks of the arch. The longer the arch remains on the formwork, the weaker it will be.

Stone chamber. The dimensions of the window for the exit of steam from the stone filling chamber should be such that it is possible, if necessary, to climb through it into the heater

The distance from the rails to the window is made no more than 50 cm (seven rows of masonry). This is due to the fact that the top of the cobblestones should always be at or below the shelf in the steam room. The lower the steam source, the more efficiently it will be used. In addition to the door in the window, it is necessary to install an internal damper. Thanks to her, the wall of the steam room, opposite the window, will heat up less, and heat will be better preserved in the chamber. For more intensive heating of the filling of the chamber wall

Can be lined with fire-resistant steel sheets. It's expensive and inefficient.

The total height of the chamber is made with the expectation that there are at least four rows between the top of the backfill and the vaults (ceilings). At a lower height, it will be difficult to splash water on distant kat / ni. The ceiling of the chamber of the stone element is always arranged one or two rows above the lintel of the chamber window. This part of the chamber is a dam-protector - during the kindling of the heater, it will not allow smoke to penetrate into the steam room.

Between the arch and the rows of the main ceiling of the furnace, it is necessary to leave a sedimentary gap in one row of masonry. The gap is also used as a chimney to the chimney, allowing it to be installed at any corner of the furnace.

Ceiling section. The most dangerous place in the fire department is in the steam room - the ceiling is all around the chimney. So that this place does not unnecessarily roar. the pipe in the smoldering passageway is laid on the ceiling with thicker studs - it is cut with iooloina. For heaters topcine of the pipe walls, 38 cm or 25 cm are provided here - with an additional heating pad.

The outer dimensions of the pipe cut are 76x76 cm. But at the place where the pipe passes in the ceiling, a large opening is made - 86x86 cm. Gaps of 5 cm on each side between the brick and the ceiling material are filled with basalt wool or other fireproof material.

An ordinary brick begins to collapse at a temperature of 700 "C, so it is better to lay the ceiling partition from fireclay bricks.

Materials and devices Kirlt red Fireclay brick fireclay brick KLUTOVIDNMY Ass "and> i. and smoke Steel corner Steel strip Pipe "a STAPNAYA CHLROSTOICHLI Rolls rail Stomp door Blower doors Grid grates Steam damper Craft over the bridge Doors to exit Make according to m "sgu" Chamotte clay " Gliel, the sand of gormy On demand Cobblestone of volcanic origin

For greater decorativeness, some details of the furnace (extension at the bottom, skirt, cutting elements) can be made from bricks that differ from the rest in color.

Life in the countryside in winter is a constant concern for warmth in the house. And a lot depends on how the heating units work. For most people, these are ordinary wood-burning stoves, which are impressive structures made of a large amount of brick and clay. And the task is to warm up this structure as much as possible and keep it warm for as long as possible. If the stove gets cold, it will take a lot of work, wood and time to heat it up again.

Another option is metal stoves. The so-called "potbelly stoves" start to give heat quickly, but they cool down just as quickly after the end of the firebox and are unusually voracious - they consume a lot of firewood.

8 last years many metal stoves of new designs appeared, which heat up quickly, like the old ones - potbelly stoves -, but much more economical than them. The combustion process in these furnaces is less intense and therefore longer.

It is achieved by reducing the air supply to the combustion zone - the less it is supplied, the longer the stove works with one laying of firewood. At the same time, not

There is an overheating of the metal case, which allows the use of steel, rather than cast iron, and welding in the manufacture of furnaces, and locking devices to be made more accurate and tight. Yes, and the steel itself for these furnaces has become thinner, but the furnaces remain unusually durable.

It is almost impossible to achieve a smoldering regime in traditional brick ovens due to the inevitable smoke in the room in such cases. Since the draft during such combustion is weak, the smoke will go through leaks in the doors and their attachment points, into the gap between the stove and the masonry, etc.

Traditional ovens have other features that can be attributed to disadvantages. So. when using them, a lot of air is wasted, which enters the furnace from the heated room. At the same time, warm air is carried out into the pipe, and cold air enters its place from the street, which significantly reduces the efficiency of the furnace. And in order to avoid unjustified consumption of heat, it is necessary to constantly monitor the process IN ORDER TO COVER THE DY1.ED-

Firebox bins, and loading firewood is almost impossible to automate.

In order to make a stove that would not have these shortcomings, I decided to move the front part of the stove with the furnace door outside the heated room - to the street. This immediately removes the problem of stove smoking in the absence of sealed doors - let it smoke on the street. The main part of my metal stove, hermetically welded, is indoors.

I made a firebox from a square steel box with a section of 300x300 mm and a wall thickness of 2.5 mm. Box length - 1500 mm.

I blindly welded one end of the box with steel of the same thickness, and welded an old metal safe on top, the key to which had once been lost. I first cut out the bottom of the safe, and made a hole of the appropriate size in the box under it. In the upper part of the safe, parallel to the box, I welded a metal pipe 0100 mm as a chimney, having previously made a hole in the safe at the junction. The oven is almost ready.

Now it had to be installed. To do this, in the wall of the house, according to the dimensions of the stove, I made holes for the firebox and the chimney, dragged the stove into the house and brought it out into the street with unplugged ends. After that, I increased the chimney and welded small metal blocks to it and the firebox for automatic supply of firewood to the firebox.

Of course, it was still necessary to strengthen the stove, placing it at some distance from the floor. To do this, I hammered metal pipes into the ground and welded the furnace to them.

In addition, a platform for flammable material was welded to the front of the furnace, protruding to the street, 100 mm below the hearth. Such a device facilitates the kindling of the furnace. Here, you can put a crumpled newspaper or. without fear of a fire, put a small container of gasoline, etc. I must say that I have never had 8 life before so easily and quickly

To kindle the stove - you put small chips in the firebox, strike a match - and you can go do other things.

The stove is designed in such a way that, when fully loaded, the wood will burn slowly, and the stove will provide heat continuously for many hours. Usually I use scraps from woodworking of various lengths, but if there are trimmings of 1500 mm root. I put it off - I fill them with tatka in such a way that they do not stick out and you can tightly close the firebox. In this state, the access of air to the combustion zone is reduced, and the firewood burns even longer. As a rule, I do this closer to sleep or “hell has to leave the house for a long time, and there is no control over the heating process,

Despite the fact that the furnace is metal, it is difficult to get burned on it, since the body does not heat up very much. However, due to the long burning time, the stove creates a comfortable temperature in the rooms.

In severe frosts, it is necessary to increase the intensity of combustion and, as a result, increase the consumption of firewood and reduce the time between "refueling *. For these cases, I made a simple system for automatically feeding a long length. It is arranged simply: a cable with a load at one end and with a hook - at the other, is skipped through two rollers welded to the furnace.I put the length gauge with one end into the furnace until it stops, and hook the other end with a hook.The force created by the load allows you to push the length gauge into the furnace when it burns out.

To reduce the weight of the load used for the operation of automation, I first used a system of chain hoists (movable blocks), but eventually abandoned them. With a decrease in the fuel supply force, it was necessary to increase the height to which it was necessary to lift the load. For example, in order to feed a board with a length of 3m into the furnace, the load had to be lifted by 6 m!

The oven turned out to be multifunctional. It not only gives enough heat, but it is also convenient to heat food on it without fear that it will burn, and the water on it remains hot for days.

I also store hinged snacks on my oven - I “dry” them. Moisture will never freeze in them and they will not jam, which often happens in winter.

The work on the furnace is not finished. We still have to solve the issue with the furnace door and think out the supply of long lengths - a ditch - while for this I use the stand that turned out to be under the rugs.

The firebox is made of refractory bricks and has a slot vault for stone filling. The slot width is 5–8 cm. For. the strength of the furnace is finished with steel corners.

The stone chamber has two doors, often chimneys are made to pass flue gases from the space around the channel to the lower part of the stone chamber.

Foundation. The construction of a massive brick stove-heater begins with the installation of its foundation. So that the furnace does not settle and does not tilt due to moistening or freezing of the soil, the foundation is deepened by at least 0.5 m. Its transverse dimensions must be larger than that of the furnace by 1 brick (half a brick in each direction ). The distance from the foundation of the furnace to the foundation of the wall is at least 5 cm. The gap between them is filled with sand. The bottom of the pit is rammed and leveled.

The best foundation is concrete or rubble concrete. In dry soil, it can be made of bricks using lime, cement or lime-cement mortar.

Lime mortar is prepared from slaked lime and sifted sand, taken in a ratio of 1:2 to 1:3. Cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is usually 1: 3) is prepared in small portions in order to have time to use it before setting. To prepare a lime-cement mortar, take 1-2 hours of lime and 6-16 hours of sand for 1 hour of cement, depending on the brand of cement and the fat content of lime. The surface of the foundation is poured with cement mortar, leveled with a rail and covered with waterproofing, usually roofing felt or roofing material in 2 layers.

Masonry material. The main material for laying furnaces is an ordinary solid brick of the 1st grade.

It is not allowed to use perforated and silicate bricks because they break down quickly. Hard-melting and refractory bricks are recommended for laying and lining the furnace firebox. Hard-melting bricks are suitable for burning firewood, refractory (chamotte) - for burning coal, liquid fuel, gas. Often furnaces are built from used bricks. They must be cleaned of mortar and soot. Put them with the smoky side inward, otherwise rust spots from soot they will come out into the open even through plaster and whitewash. Before use, bricks (except for refractory and refractory ones) are immersed in water for 1–1.5 minutes, since dry brick dehydrates the mortar and reduces its binding capacity.

The mortar for laying the furnace is prepared from clay and sand, taken in a ratio of 1:1 to 1:2, depending on the fat content of the clay. Clay should be soaked 1 day before laying. Then water is added to it in such an amount that, after mixing, a creamy mass is obtained. This mass is filtered through a sieve, the same amount of sand is added and mixed thoroughly. The sand must be passed through a 1.5 mm sieve. If watery areas (lakes) appear on the surface of the solution, then add sand and mix the mass again. A good solution does not contain lumps, has a rough surface, does not stick to a shovel and is easily squeezed out of the masonry seam when you press the brick with your hand. For laying refractory and refractory bricks, a solution of clay and mountain sand or fireclay is used.

Seams. The main requirement for masonry is to ensure the tightness of the seams so that even a small amount of combustion products that can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning do not penetrate into the bathhouse. Masonry seams are filled with mortar to the full depth. Their thickness should be minimal: for ordinary bricks no more than 5 mm, for refractory and refractory bricks - no more than 3 mm for the entire depth. The solution is spread by hand, from the master it can be put only to the bottom of the top-liver and the bottom of the smoke channels.

The inner surfaces of the furnaces must be smooth, therefore, chipped and sledge bricks are laid with rough edges outward. Every 4-5 rows of masonry, the inner surfaces are rubbed with a wash brush or a rag soaked in water without adding a solution.

The laying of the next row is started only when all the bricks of the previous row are laid. It is advisable to first lay the bricks of each row and fit them together, and then put them on the mortar.

Checking the correct angles. After laying the first row, check the correctness of the corners with a square or cord. After laying the 2nd row, guide cords with cut-offs are installed at the corners of the oven. The cords are hung with nails from the ceiling, and from below they are wound on nails pressed into the seams between the bottom two rows.

Binding of bricks. When laying bricks, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for ligation of bricks: each vertical seam must be covered with a brick top row. Bonding of ordinary brick masonry with refractory or refractory brick masonry is not allowed, as they expand differently with increasing temperature.

Furnace appliances. Furnace instrument doors, valves, grates, stoves, hot water boxes (built-in water tanks) - are installed simultaneously with bricklaying. The frame of the door is fixed in the masonry by means of paws (clamps) made of mild steel strip (hoop iron). The paws are attached to the frame with rivets. Before installation in place, the frame is wrapped with asbestos cord or cloth. In the absence of asbestos, a gap of 3–4 mm wide is left between the frame of the firebox door and the brickwork, so that the frame, when heated, does not push the masonry apart. To ensure the strength of the jumper from above, the door of the firebox is blocked in the “lock” way (the middle brick is placed with beveled ends on the beveled ends of neighboring bricks). Other doors and frames of dampers (latches) are fixed in the masonry with 2 mm wire (the wire is embedded in the masonry).

Grate. The grate is installed with slots along the firebox. A gap of at least 5 mm is left between the edges of the grate and the masonry bricks to expand the grate. The gap is filled with sand. The same gap is left between the stove above the firebox and the masonry.

Fuel tank. An important part of the stove is the top-liver. For wood burning, its smallest width is 25 cm (in one brick), the smallest height is 35 cm. With an increase in the height of the firebox, the conditions for burning fuel improve. It is desirable that it be 40–60 cm, depending on the size of the furnace. In the lower part of the wall of the firebox, they are made with a slope towards the grate, so that during combustion, the coals settle on the grate. Under the firebox, they are located below the frame of the furnace door by at least 1 brick, otherwise coals will fall out when the door is opened. It is desirable to make the bottom of the ash pan also below the blower door.

Smoke circulation. The uniformity of heating and the efficiency of the furnace depend on the design of its smoke circuits - channels for flue gases. Their inner surface should be even and not smeared with clay mortar, which quickly falls off and clogs the chimneys.

Overlapping. The upper wall of the furnace, called the ceiling, consists of three rows of bricks laid flat with dressing. If the vertical seams of the ceiling coincide, they must be covered with pieces of steel sheet.

Pipe. The pipe for the heater is usually made mounted, that is, on the stove array. At the same time, the thickness of the walls of the furnace and the pipe must be at least half a brick, the cross section of the smoke channels and pipes must also be at least half a brick.

The pipe is brought to a height of at least 0.5 m from the roof surface using cement or lime mortar (clay mortar is easily washed out by rain and condensate that can form inside the pipe).

Safety measures at work. When constructing the oven, care must be taken not to fall or drop bricks or tools. To work on the roof, a horizontal platform is installed for the stove and a box or bucket with a solution. The site must be fenced from the side of the slope and attached to the rafters. If the platform is small, then the stove-maker must put on a safety belt tied to a reliable part of the roof. The shackle and eyes of the bucket must be tested for strength.

After completion of construction and drying, the furnace is tested with a trial firebox, which is carried out in the presence of fire authorities. At the same time, an act on the safety of the furnace must be drawn up.

Fire safety measures. For the purposes of fire safety, the distance between the brick surface of the furnace and the combustible structure ( wooden parts baths) should be at least 40 cm if the structure is not protected from fire, and at least 25 cm if such protection is available. If the furnace and the pipe are metal, then these distances are increased to 100 and 70 cm, respectively. There must be a free distance of at least 10 cm between the brick pipe and the wooden parts of the roof (rafters, sheathing, sheathing).

When using a metal or asbestos-cement pipe, the nearest wooden parts of the ceiling and roof must be covered with felt impregnated with clay mortar, and additionally upholstered with roofing steel. The gap between the pipe and the roof is closed with a galvanized steel apron. On the wooden floor a metal sheet with a size of at least 70 × 50 cm is installed in front of the furnace door.

Plastering. For greater safety and giving a pleasant appearance, the oven is plastered with solutions of the following composition (by volume):

• gypsum: lime: sand 2:2:1
• clay: lime: sand 1:1:3
• clay:sand 1:2
• clay: cement: sand 1:1:3

It is desirable to add 0.1–0.2 hours of asbestos to any solution. It should be taken into account that the mortar with gypsum can set in 15-20 minutes.

Preparing for plaster. For plastering, the surface of a completely dried oven is cleaned of clay, the seams are cleared to a depth of 10 mm. It is even better to cover the stove with a grid with cells of at least 15 × 15 mm, attaching it with nails and washers, or wrap it with wire, also attached to the walls of the stove with nails.

The sequence of applying layers and whitewashing. To ensure the thermal expansion of the individual parts of the furnace, it is heated until it warms up well, moistened with water and a continuous layer of plaster is applied. After setting the first layer, a second layer of plaster is applied, then the next one. The total thickness of the layers should be 10–15 mm. The last layer is carefully leveled and rubbed. If the plaster is made with lime and has a gray surface, it is not necessary to pour it white. A very dark plaster surface can be whitewashed with a solution of lime and a small amount of clay added so that the painted surface is gray instead of bright white, which will irritate the eyes. Be sure to whitewash the pipe within the attic to make it easier to detect cracks.

Pipe processing. If the pipe is metal or asbestos-cement, then the junction of it with brickwork must be sealed with a waterproof mortar (cement or lime-cement), and the outside of the pipe must be covered with thermal insulation, otherwise in a cooled pipe (at a flue gas temperature below 100 ° C) condensation will form, which impregnates with moisture and destroys the upper bricks of the furnace, reduces draft, and in winter it can lead to the formation of an ice plug in the pipe.

Pipe insulation. Pipe insulation is performed by enclosing it in a sheet steel casing. The gap between them with a width of about 5 cm is filled with mineral wool.

Deflector. To improve traction and protect the pipe from precipitation, a deflector is installed on its upper end, which ensures the suction of gases from the pipe using the wind.

Intermittent stoves

Periodic stoves are most suitable for a family bath, when the duration of the steaming process is short. They are distinguished by greater (approximately 30%), compared with the above options, efficiency, less preparation time for the bath process, since hot gases passing through the stone backfill heat up much faster and more strongly.

Fig.99. The design of the heater-barrel:
1 firebox; 2-cast iron plate; 3-stone backfill;
4-chimney.

The temperature of the stone backfill in its lower layers can reach 1000°C, and in the upper layers - *>90-600°C. This temperature is quite enough for the soot particles that have settled on the stones to burn out. Therefore, the atmosphere of the steam room is not polluted. In baths that are not equipped with hot water supply, it is possible to embed special registers for heating water. An example of such a heat-intensive stove, designed for a bath for 4-5 people, is a stove designed by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (Fig. 100 and 101), and in Fig. 102, 103, 104, 105 is presented pleased with the masonry of that stove.

To build a furnace you will need:
- Red brick - 1240 pcs.
- Refractory brick - 250 pcs.
- Common clay - 0.35 m3
- Clay refractory with fireclay -120 kg
- Ravine sand - 0.17 m3
- Serpentine (register) from steel pipes-1 PC
- Furnace door 400X300 mm -1 pc.
- Blower door 200X140 mm - 1 pc.
- Cleaning door 130X130 mm - 1 pc.
- Steam door 430X360 mm - 1 pc.
- Smoke damper 290X250 mm -1 pc.
-Grate 430X250 mm -1 pc.
- Steel strip 500X30 mm - 0.75 m
- Corner 50X50X3 mm - 0.75 m

The stove consists of a firebox for firewood and closed chamber, on the bottom of which a stone backfill is laid. Flue gases, having passed through the stone backfill, enter two downcomers located on the side and are removed through the chimney into the atmosphere. A coil is located in the upper part of the firebox, some water is supplied by gravity from the tank. When heated, hot water enters the tank through the pipe, from the bottom of which colder water moves into the coil. Thus, with the help of natural circulation during the heating of the furnace, the amount of water necessary for washing is heated.

Rice. 100 Construction heater
L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarina:
A-general view of the furnace and water supply scheme; B-design of a coil for heating water;
1-furnace, 2-coil; Z-water taps for cold and hot water; 4-bench; 5-tank c cold water, 6-tank c hot water; 7-furnace compartment: 8-hole door 20x14 cm; 9-additional blower door

Rice. 101. Stove-heater of periodic action Korobanova L.A. and Samarina N.I. (projections).

Rice. 102. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (beginning).

Rice. 103. Ordering the furnace L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (10-17 rows).

Rice. 104. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (18 25 rows).

Rice. 105. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (26-34 rows).

A fairly simple construction of a metal batch furnace is shown in Figure 106. This design does not provide for a hot water tank, but if necessary, it can be built in. IN metal case with doors on shelves made of angle steel, grates are laid, forming the bottom of the firebox. To reduce thermal radiation from the walls of the furnace, the firebox is lined with refractory bricks. The bottom of the stone filling chamber is a steel grate laid on the brick lining of the firebox. If there is a need to heat water, then a metal container with water is installed on the cover of the stone filling chamber. Flue gases, passing through the stone backfill and washing the lid, go through the pipe into the atmosphere. Thus, both the stone backfill and the water container installed on the lid are warmed up.

A metal stove can also be with a hot water tank. The simplest design of such a furnace is shown in Figure 107. The furnace casing with a size of 70X70X170 mm is welded from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm (since thinner sheet steel will burn out quickly). The height of the oven is divided into three zones: the lower one serves as a furnace, the middle one - as a heater, the upper one is for heating water. To reduce thermal radiation from the walls of the furnace, the zone of the firebox and stone filling is lined with red brick laid on the edge. The bottom of the stone backfill can be a powerful grate or steel grate that can withstand the weight of the stone backfill. Water in a container with a lid is heated by flue gases passing through a steel chimney.

Rice. 106. Metal heater of periodic action:
1-case; 2.3 doors; 4-shelf; 5-grate grates; 6-plate; 7-bricks; 8-stones; 9-cover; 10-grid.

Rice. 107. Stove with a tank for heating water:
1 - brickwork; 2-metal case; 3-chimney; 4- water tank; 5-heater; 6-metal grille; 7-furnace.

The bulk of the flue gas heat is taken away by stone filling, so the water in the tank is not brought to a boil. Steam is obtained by pouring hot water over the heater through a 200X200 mm door located on the side of the stone backfill. The design of the oven is so simple that it can be made at home, subject to skill. welding work and availability of the necessary equipment. Figure 108 shows a furnace with a hot water tank designed by P. M. Lysenko, the principle of operation of which is similar to that described above.

The original design of the stove-heater was built for his bath with a steam room 2X2 m B.I. Ivanov. The old one, which has served its time, was chosen as the basis of the furnace. a wood-burning column for heating water (Fig. 109 and 110). Having cut off the top (by 250-300 mm) and the bottom at the column, the central pipe is removed. In the cut off upper part, a hole is cut out for the stove door measuring 65X150 mm, a door is made of roofing iron and put in its place so that it can be removed during the operation of the stove. The column is adjusted to the height of the steam room so that its upper part can be removed if necessary. A powerful metal grate is installed above the firebox, capable of withstanding the high temperature and the severity of the stone backfill. The column is installed in place, filled with stone and connected to the chimney. A smoke damper is installed between the column and the chimney so that the stove cools down more slowly. When installing the heater, make sure that the door for the stone filling is located in such a way as to prevent burns of the steamer when watering the heater with water. The steam jet should exit in the direction opposite to the steam room. The removable top of the heater will allow you to periodically remove the stones for inspection, cleaning and replacement.

A metal stove-heater of periodic action designed by P.I. Mikhailov (Fig. 111) provides for the option of removing flue gases when the bath is already heated, and the firewood has not yet burned out. To do this, the designer laid an additional chimney, which is closed during the heating of the bath and opens only when the bath is heated and the main valve closes. This is done so that in the process of burning out the wood, the flue gases, which no longer have a high temperature, do not cool the stones of the heater.

Rice. 108. The stove for a bath with a tank P.M. Lysenko:
1-Chimney with a diameter of 120 ... 150 mm; 2-brick pipe; 3-
valve; 4-platform size 300x300 mm for brick pipe; 5- tank for hot water; 6-ring made of steel strip; 7-pin faucet with latch; 11-blew; 12-window; 13-tank cover; 14-lid with handle; 15-steel circle to the tank; 16-lattice of reinforcing bars; 17-plate with a thickness of 12 ... 15 mm; 18-eye; 19-furnace grate.

Rice. 109. Interior of the stove-heater B.I. Ivanova.

Rice. 110. Section of the stove-heater designed by B.I. Ivanov:
1-furnace with the top casing; 2-setting ring; 3-grate; 4- shortened column body; 5-stones; 6-upper part of the column: 7- door of the heater; 8-pipe valve; 9-bath ceiling; 10-top and bottom metal rings (roofing steel); 11-sealing asbestos cord; 12-exhaust pipe (steel;; 13-mineral wool; 14- nails.

Together with flue gases leaves and carbon monoxide, which, when the main valve is closed, can enter the steam room. Such a constructive solution allows you to keep the temperature of the stones and not to remove the coals from the oven before steaming.

Rice. 111. Furnace-heater designed by P.I.Mikhailov: 1-furnace; 2-heater; 3-pipe, 4-blower

The design of the furnace is very simple and consists of a furnace, a heater, a main and additional pipe. The furnace was welded from sheet steel with a thickness of 4-5 mm, since with a smaller thickness the steel of the furnace will quickly burn out. A small blower is welded separately under the firebox, which is separated from the firebox by a grate. Cast iron grate will last longer, as it is not so exposed to high temperatures. A grate is also installed between the heater and the firebox, which is able to withstand the high temperature and the weight of the stone backfill. The walls of the chamber of a stone clock can be made of thinner steel, but in any case, its thickness should not be less than 3 mm.

Long-lasting stoves Long-lasting stoves don't have to be heat-intensive. The fire in the stove is maintained during the bath procedures, so the heater is constantly heated. Such stoves do not require a large mass of stone filling and are most often used in the construction of family baths. The difference between long-acting stoves and heat-intensive stoves lies in the openly located heater. To maintain the required parameters of the steam-air environment, there is no need to open the doors. An open heater heats up the space of the steam room quite strongly at a lower temperature of the stone backfill. Typically, the temperature of the stone filling in long-term furnaces does not exceed 350-450°C and is controlled by spraying the stones with hot water. The water quickly evaporates with a characteristic hissing sound, covering the body of the bathers in a sultry steam. An open heater heats up the steam room faster, bringing the temperature up to 100°C or more. Therefore, long-acting stoves are preferred by lovers of a dry-air bath (sauna) or a Russian bath with low humidity and high air temperature.

When designing long-acting heaters, craftsmen show miracles of ingenuity and resourcefulness. But the principle of operation of such furnaces ultimately comes down to one thing: flue gases wash the bottom and walls of the stone filling chamber, and, heating them, go into the atmosphere. Stone backfill is in direct contact with the air of the steam room and heats it up to the required temperature. The temperature drop caused by air heating and water evaporation during the formation of steam is compensated by the process of fuel combustion in the furnace.

The most commonly used design of a long-term stove, made of 4 mm thick steel sheets, is shown in Fig. 112. The design of the furnace is very simple. If it is necessary to heat water for washing, the tank is attached to one of the side or to back wall ovens.

The original design of a long-acting stove-heater was installed in his bathhouse by V. Kondratiev (Fig. 113). The difference between this furnace and the previously considered options is the presence of air registers that allow you to collect maximum heat from the furnace. The registers are ordinary pipes with a diameter of 40 mm, built into the furnace body. The air heated in the pipes quickly warms up the steam room to the required temperature. In addition, the registers take on a lot of heat and reduce thermal radiation from the furnace walls. For better heat accumulation in the furnace, its walls are lined with bricks laid on edge. Cold air enters the register pipes from below the floor and, after warming up, exits through the upper openings.

Contrary to the existing opinion that long-acting stoves are best made of metal, original designs of brick stoves have been created that not only heat the steam room, but also adjacent rooms (rest room, shower room). A striking example of such ingenuity is the design of the stove-heater, shown below.

Rice. 112. Furnace permanent action.
1-blew; 2-furnace body; 3-furnace space; 4-lattice; 5-stones; 6-chimney.

Rice. 113. The device of the furnace with air "registers":
1-heater; 2-hole for a pipe supplying water to the heater; 3-"register"; 4-pipe heat exchanger.

Stove-heater with a lower location of the water tank

This stove differs from the previous ones in that it has a stone chamber with a volume of 50 liters, a large firebox and an additional lower damper to ensure the kindling process. The water tank located at the bottom makes it easier i to fill it with cold water and then take it out hot water. The peculiarity of the tank is that it enters the body of the bath at the end, which speeds up the process of heating water. From below and from the sides, the tank is heated by hot flashes from the firebox.

Rice. 114. Optimal placement of the stove with a lower water tank

The optimal placement of the furnace in the bath is shown in Fig. 114.

For laying the proposed furnace, you will need 230 pieces of bricks and steel sheet size 270x270x5 mm. The sheet is needed in order to cover the top of the tank. Otherwise, the bricks (upper rows) will fall on the tank body, which will lead to its deformation.

A feature of this furnace is that when the lower damper is open, the flue gases bypass the lower chimneys and rush directly into the chimney. Therefore, the lower damper should be closed immediately after the stove is kindled, but only when stable combustion is established.

During the laying process, you will need another piece of roofing steel measuring 270x270 mm., Which will need to be placed on the 18th row of the ceiling (upper wall) of the furnace. The appearance of the furnace, projections and ordering of the masonry are shown in fig. 115,116,117, 118.

Rice. 115. Heater stove with bottom tank placement
1-door blower; 2-door firebox; 3-lower damper; 4-tank; 5-top damper; 6-cleaning; 7-slab with stones.

When choosing a stove for a bath, some owners opt for the simplest and cheapest options. These can be home-made steel or cast-iron purchased units. But many people prefer to build a traditional brick stove-heater in the bath. For masonry work, either they invite a stove-maker with a certain work experience, or they build a stove with their own hands.

In the second case, a thorough study of the masonry technology, a competent choice of a heating installation project, a study of orders and other drawings are necessary. In addition, you will need skills in working with construction tools.

Basic rules for laying the foundation

construction sauna stove bricks begin with the construction of the foundation. A pit is being prepared for it, the depth of which should be greater than the depth of freezing of the soil. On average, this is 700 mm.

Attention! In the lowest part, the width of the pit should exceed the width of the main excavation. Such a measure will avoid problems that may arise during soil movements.

A tightly compacted sand cushion 150 mm thick is laid at the bottom of the pit. Sand is spilled with water, and then it is covered with a layer of broken stone and brick 200 mm thick. A crushed stone layer is poured on top. Formwork is installed on the base and the reinforcing cage is laid.

The prepared form is poured into the formwork. concrete mix. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed. The space in which the formwork boards were located is covered with fine gravel mixed with sand. The surface of the foundation is treated with several layers of tar. Two layers of roofing material are laid on top.

Masonry mortar preparation

The first to erect a wall, called a protective one. It serves to protect the bath room from fire. For the construction of this wall, brick is used, which is fastened with a cement-sand mortar. For laying the remaining structural components of the furnace, only clay-sand mortar is used.

Attention! Clay for masonry mortar must be taken at a depth that is equal to or greater than half a meter.

In a special container, clay is soaked with water for one to two days. After that, the clay is thoroughly mixed. Cleaned from foreign inclusions and sifted sand is mixed with clay in equal proportions.

Advice! Masonry mortar is considered ready if it does not have lumps and has the consistency of sour cream.

Do not prepare the solution immediately in full, as it quickly thickens, losing its performance. Therefore, it is recommended to prepare a clay-sand mortar in small portions.

Structurally, according to the operating modes, brick ovens for a bath are divided into the following types: heating installations of periodic and continuous action.

Design features of batch furnaces

A batch brick oven is a heating installation with a closed firebox. For baths designed for use by one family, it is the most common type of heating installations. In such heat generators, stones are heated by flue gases passing through the heater and by the firebox itself. The heating of the stones is carried out in this case very quickly. "Heat reserve" lasts up to 2 days.

Attention! In bath heating installations with a closed firebox, the lower layer of stones warms up to almost 1000 0 С, the upper one - up to 600 0 С.

Due to direct contact with smoke, the stones are covered with a layer of soot. Therefore, you can use the sauna room only after the fuel has completely burned out, that is, 3-5 hours after kindling. Connoisseurs of traditions prefer brick ovens for a Russian bath of periodic action for steam with a characteristic aroma. Although in such a steam room, a certain portion of combustion products enters the lungs of its visitors.

There is another nuance to using periodic ovens. When steam is generated, the stones cool more and more, and the replenishment of the thermal reserve does not occur. Therefore, the longer you use such a steam room, the weaker the steam becomes. To reduce such an unpleasant effect, 30-40 kg of stones must be provided for 1m 3 of the steam room. In general, up to 300 kg of stones can be used in a batch brick kiln.

Stoves for a bath from a brick of constant action

The design of heat generators with an open heater is more complex in execution. But the steam is thick and strong and, at the same time, clean air is preserved in the bath room.

In an open heater, stones are stacked over the firebox, while they are completely fenced off from fire and combustion products. Such heat generators quickly heat up the room, but keep the heat for a short time. Therefore, they have to be heated during the entire time of using the steam room.

Advice! To increase the heating rate of stones, scrap metal is added to the bottom layer - steel or cast iron.

Continuous installations require half the amount of stones compared to intermittent heat generators. Too much thick layer cobblestones does not warm up well and the upper stones do not gain sufficient temperature to produce high-quality steam.

Only an experienced craftsman can build a brick oven in a bath with an open heater, who will also help you choose the most efficient stove design.

There are several ways to improve the heating of stones with the same fuel consumption:

• Building a smoke barrier. In order for the outgoing smoke to give up part of its heat reserve to the heater, a brick barrier is built along the way of its exit. Thanks to this constructive solution near the heater, the gases slow down and give off heat to the stones.
• For maximum contact of the heated smoke with the heater, the cavity of the bowl for stones is made beveled at an angle of 45 0 to the horizon.

In the Kuragin brick sauna stove, a cast-iron bowl for stones is made in the form of a drop. Smoke, bypassing a brick barrier, finds itself in a closed space, in which its movement is greatly slowed down. The gases almost completely give up their heat to the stone bowl lowered there.

The main place in the bath is occupied by a stove-heater. It can be permanent or intermittent.

Bake permanent action has thin walls and a small volume of stones. As a rule, it can maintain a temperature of 300 to 350 ° C and is equipped with an automatic control and regulation device. Such a furnace is heated with the help of electricity, solid, liquid or gaseous fuels. In this type of furnace, the combustion chamber and flue gas channels are fenced off by a steel wall or a cast-iron plate from stone filling.

Bake periodical action It has thick brickwork and a large volume of stones. The stone filling of the furnace in the lower part can be heated up to 1100 ° C, and in the upper part - up to 500 ° C. Furnaces of this type are heated, as a rule, with firewood. Maximum heat production with minimum fuel use is possible only if the fuel burns completely. This is largely facilitated by the use of grates. Through them, the air from the blower has uniform access to the entire surface of the fuel. It is possible to increase the efficiency of the furnace by increasing the volume of its heating parts and reducing the thickness and thermal conductivity of the walls.

The device of the stove-heater

The main part of any stove-heater is the firebox, which is a chamber for burning fuel. In fireboxes intended for solid fuels, a grate is located at a depth of 30 cm from the level of the door. The walls of the firebox should be slightly beveled so that as it burns solid fuel rolled onto the grate.

Under the grate there is an ash pan designed to collect ash and regulate the air entering the furnace compartment. Air passes through the layer of fuel and contributes to its complete combustion. You can increase or decrease the air supply using blower door.

To control the draft in the chimney or in the chimney, a valve is installed. It closes only after the fuel burns out completely. Otherwise, carbon monoxide accumulated in the oven can lead to severe poisoning.

stones in the heater, it is better to put it on a grate of steel rods located above the firebox.

In furnaces closed type at the level of the upper row of stones, a special steam door. It opens directly before using the steam room. You can heat water in tank or in serpentine. The tank is installed in the furnace, and the coil - in the firebox.

Continuous heater

The most convenient among the stoves of continuous operation is the stove-heater with electric heating.

To heat the bath, as a rule, an electric furnace of a closed type with metal box upstairs filled with rocks. Such an oven is capable of heating the air up to 110–120 ° C. In the sauna, the number of stones in the box should be minimal, and in the bath with wet steam, the maximum.

There are also no gaseous stoves on sale. Instead, many use convectors, heaters, fireplaces that run on liquefied gas. But they are not able to provide a high temperature. Therefore, in saunas, conventional stoves with a gas burner are installed.

Since gas is the most flammable fuel, liquid fuels are most often used in continuous heaters: furnace distilled fuel, diesel fuel, kerosene, fuel oil, coal tar, and in winter - only diesel fuel or kerosene that does not solidify in the cold.

Two methods are used in stoves for atomizing and mixing liquid fuel with air: spraying drops on the bottom of the burner and evaporation from a thin layer at the bottom of the burner.

On the rice. 60 the scheme of the furnace according to the first type is presented - with spraying. The burner in such a furnace can be made from an old engine piston by drilling several holes in it for air supply and filling it with stones. The dropper must be installed so that it is possible to control the flow of fuel. The tube that connects the dropper to the fuel tank must have a filter and two valves: at the tank after the filter to stop the fuel supply and at the stove to regulate it. On the rice. 61 the scheme of the furnace according to the second type is given - with evaporation. The principle of its operation is similar to the principle of operation of the previous furnace, with the only difference being that the fuel enters the glass not from above, but from below. In such a furnace, the fuel supply should be more carefully regulated, and the bottom of the glass should be located strictly horizontally.

Rice. 60. Scheme of a stove-heater with fuel spray: 1 - chimney; 2 - stones; 3 - furnace firebox; 4 - dropper; 5 - peephole; 6 - burner cup; 7 - firebox door; 8 - valves; 9 - tube for fuel supply; 10 - overflow tube; 11 - wall of the room; 12 - filter; 13 – fuel tank; 14 - drain tank

Rice. 61. Scheme of a heater-heater with fuel evaporation: 1 - furnace combustion chamber; 2 - burner body; 3, 4 - doors; 5 - hole for air; 6 - mixing ring; 7 - bottom of the hull filled with fuel; 8 - valves; 9 - filter; 10, 11 - pipes for overflow and fuel supply; 12 – fuel tank; 13 – level regulator; 14 - drain tank

Among imported stoves operating on liquid and gaseous fuels, special attention deserve "Vesta" (Germany), which is available in six versions for steam rooms different sizes, and more powerful Finnish heaters.

In Russia, unfortunately, such stoves are not produced, but heating and cooking devices using liquid fuel, for example, models 2403, can be adapted instead. Solid fuel stoves are produced at the Tallinn Machine Building Plant and at some other enterprises. In a small sauna, they can heat the air to a temperature of 130–140 ° C. A converted laundry stove can be used as a stove-heater. To do this, stones must be placed in the water tank, and the firebox must be overlaid with bricks from the outside.

But the simplest among continuous furnaces are homemade ovens from sheet steel with unary and double walls. Double-walled stoves are more convenient, as the space between them can be used to produce hot water.

The simplest designs of such furnaces are presented in rice. 62.

Rice. 62. Heater stoves with a built-in water tank: a - a stove with single walls; b - a heater with a side wall in the form of a water tank; c - a heater with water tanks and an air gap in the wall

The main advantage of metal stoves is that they quickly heat up the room, are safe, and take up little space.

Combined action stove

As a rule, combined action ovens are made of brick, but they can also be made of metal. They work most often on liquid fuel. They can be heated before using the bath or, if necessary, continue heating during washing.

All brick ovens of this type the firebox is separated from the stone chamber by heat-resistant material (cast iron or sheet steel). This allows you to get steam without stopping the furnace.

The simplest options for a combined-action stove-heater - without a water tank - are presented on rice. 63.

Rice. 63. Brick stoves-heaters without a water heater: a - using a metal box; b - using an exhausted boiler; 1 - blower door; 2 - grate; 3 – firebox door; 4 - plate; 5 - valve; 6 - metal box; 7 - stones; 8 - steam door; 9 - refractory bricks; 10 - boiler

But more convenient is a stove-heater with a built-in tank for heating water. To increase or, conversely, reduce the rate of water heating, a sheet of asbestos cardboard is placed between the tank and the stones.

Batch stove

For heating with wood, the best are economical stoves-heaters of periodic action. Their only drawback is that it is possible to use a bath with such a stove only after complete combustion of the fuel, so as not to be poisoned by carbon monoxide.

A compact metal oven without a water tank is shown on rice. 64. The thickness of its walls should be at least 4–5 mm. Such an oven can be easily made from a commercially available laundry stove and a metal barrel.

Rice. 64. Metal stove-heater of periodic action: 1 - body; 2, 3 - doors; 4 - shelf; 5 - grate; 6 - plate; 7 - bricks; 8 - stones; 9 - cover; 10 - steel grating

But still, the most popular among furnaces of this type are brick heaters. On the rice. 65 two variants of such a furnace are shown: without a water-heating tank and with a water-heating boiler.

Rice. 65. Brick stoves-heaters of periodic action: a - without a water-heating tank; b - with a hot water boiler

Brick oven masonry

The transverse dimensions of the foundation must exceed the dimensions of the furnace itself by half a brick on each side. A gap filled with sand should separate it from the foundation of the wall, and the depth of the pit should be at least 50 cm.

The foundation for the stove is made, as a rule, from the same material as the foundation of the entire bath.

The surface of the foundation is leveled with cement mortar and covered with a double layer of waterproofing material.

For masonry, ordinary solid bricks, and for laying the firebox - refractory (when using firewood) or refractory (when using other types of fuel). Before use, ordinary bricks must be held in water for 1-2 minutes.

For laying ordinary bricks, a solution of clay and sand is used in a ratio of 1: 1. First, the clay must be soaked with water and after a day add enough water to it to bring it to the consistency of sour cream with stirring. After straining, sifted sand is added to the clay. The whole mass is thoroughly mixed. A mortar for masonry of refractory or refractory bricks is prepared from clay and fireclay.

The distance between ordinary bricks in the masonry should not exceed 4-5 mm, and between refractory and refractory - 3 mm. Wipe every 4 rows inner surface masonry with a wet cloth. In order for the walls of the furnace to be even, after the second row, guide cords with plumb lines are installed in the corners, fixing them on nails driven into the floor and ceiling. It is not allowed to bind masonry from ordinary brick with masonry from refractory or refractory bricks, since the degree of their expansion under the influence of high temperatures is different.

During the laying process, the installation of metal parts of the furnace takes place. To install the firebox door, you must first attach hooped iron paws to its frame, and wrap it yourself with a cloth or asbestos cord. The jumper above the firebox door is locked into a lock. Other doors and dampers are fastened to the masonry with a wire with a cross section of 2 mm.

When installing the grate and the slab above the firebox, a small gap must be left between them and the masonry and filled with sand.

If your bath will be heated with wood, then you can limit yourself to the minimum dimensions of the firebox: width - 25-30 cm, height - 35-40 cm; but if possible, it is recommended to increase the height of the firebox to 50-60 cm. So that coals do not fall out of the furnace with the door open, the bottom of the firebox should be below the frame of the furnace door.

The inside of the chimneys must not be covered with clay, so that when it dries, its pieces do not fall off and fall into the chimney.

The bricks of the upper three rows are laid flat with a dressing. If their vertical seams match, then the rows should be covered with steel sheets.

The chimney is built on the array of the entire furnace. It is laid out, like a stove, in half a brick and coated with cement or lime mortar. The height of the pipe above the roof should be at least 50–60 cm.

The brick pipe should be removed from the wooden parts of the bath by at least 25-40 cm, depending on whether they have fire protection or not, and metal, respectively, by 75–100 cm.

In addition, when installing a metal pipe, all wooden parts of the roof and ceiling are covered with felt impregnated with clay mortar and sheathed with sheets of roofing steel.

The joints of a metal or asbestos-cement pipe with brickwork are reinforced with a waterproof mortar. Outside the pipe must be covered heat-insulating material so that condensation does not form.

It is desirable to install a deflector (a metal cone) on the upper end of the pipe, which will protect it from rain and snow and ensure that gases are sucked in by the wind.

At the end of the work, the oven should be plastered with one of the following solutions, adding one tenth of asbestos to them: gypsum, lime, sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1; clay, sand in a ratio of 1: 2; clay, cement, sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 3.

Before plastering, the surface of the furnace must be properly prepared: clean it of clay, clear the seams to a depth of 7–10 mm, and then, having heated the furnace well, moisten it with water.

A plastered stove can be whitewashed with lime mortar by adding a little clay to it. The part of the pipe located in the attic must be whitewashed so that cracks are clearly visible on it.

backfill

For stone filling, natural cobblestones hardened by the sun and water, as well as stones of volcanic origin (basalt, granite, etc.), are best suited. But you can also use stones from siliceous rocks, which are found on the banks of natural reservoirs.

The main criteria for selecting stones should be the following: a smooth, even surface, appropriate dimensions (at least 10–15 cm in diameter), high density, the ability to withstand high temperatures, retain heat and not crack when in contact with cold water.

Large stones should be laid down, and smaller stones should be placed on top. In order for the bath to heat up faster, cast-iron chocks or steel blanks must be placed vertically between the stones.

Instead of natural stones you can use pieces of broken ceramics, porcelain or burnt bricks.

Fire safety rules

In order for the use of the bath to give you only pleasure, and not be a source of big trouble, during its operation it is necessary to observe the following measures fire safety.

Wooden and other flammable parts of the bath should be insulated or located at a considerable distance from the hot parts of the stove and chimney. As insulators, it is necessary to use materials that are fireproof or have low thermal conductivity.

If a stove with thick walls is laid out on a combustible base, then the distance from the floor to the bottom of the ash pan should be at least 14 cm, and to the bottom of the smoke turns - 21 cm. In the same stove on a fireproof base, the bottom of the ash pan and all smoke turns can be gender.

Frame thin-walled stoves should be separated from the wooden floor with asbestos cardboard 12 mm thick and roofing steel stuffed over it. Metal ovens are installed on a base consisting of two rows of bricks lying on a double layer of felt impregnated with clay mortar. On the floor near the furnace door, a metal sheet is nailed to protect the floor from coals that have fallen out of the furnace.

There must be a gap of 13 cm between the stove and a wooden wall or partition, and 25 cm between the nearest smoke outlet and the wall. The gap between the stove and the wall is bricked.

The combustible wall around the furnace door must be plastered or upholstered with roofing steel, under which felt is impregnated with clay mortar. The distance from the furnace door to the opposite wall must be at least 1.5 m.

The distance from the combustible ceiling to the upper floors of the heat-consuming furnace should be 35 cm for furnaces with a mass of more than 750 kg and 45 cm for furnaces with a mass of less than 750 kg. The same distance for a non-heat-intensive stove should be 1 m. The chimney and smoke channels should be at least 13 cm from rafters, battens, metal and reinforced concrete beams, and 25 cm from wooden beams.

The roof at the points of contact with the chimney is covered with iron or roofing steel.

Cracks in the stove and chimney should be repaired in a timely manner, as well as the smoke channels should be cleaned from soot accumulated in them.