Crane from improvised means. How to make a do-it-yourself construction crane

Many people are interested in how to make a do-it-yourself crane design. Such a device can help in the construction of a house, utility rooms needed on the farm, a granary and a warehouse for feed.

Drafting a project

A crane is needed to build a house. Let's consider how to independently make the design of a miniature crane for lifting construction loads to a height. It is necessary to make a mobile collapsible device.

First, they draw up and calculate a project for the manufacture of the apparatus:

1. The main part of the structure is the support frame. It is installed on wheels or permanently.
2. The rotation unit of the unit is fixed on the running frame.
3. The boom can be rotated thanks to the creation of electric or manual control.
4. The unit can be disassembled into parts for easy transportation.
5. The crane will be stable thanks to the creation of a block of counterweights and steel cable braces.
6. The load will be lifted using a block and a winch.
7. You need to assemble a crane with your own hands.

Blueprints

To make a crane, first of all, they draw up a project diagram and drawings of the main components. Consider the manufacture of a manual crane design. It would be possible to make an apparatus on electricity, making it possible to move the load with the help of a device on a long cable, as is the case in factory designs. But then the complexity of manufacturing nodes increases, this will increase the cost finished product and increase the time to create it. Therefore, we will focus on the manufacture of a manual model.

Welding

All connections of components and parts are performed by welding. This requires a welding machine. It can be rented while working on the execution of the crane or bought in a specialized salon.

Construction assembly

Prepare:

• rope;
• washers;
• corners and channels;
• pipe;
• grinder;
• welding machine.

The frame should be made from steel angle 63x63x5 mm. An arrow 5 m long is made from a pipe having a diameter of 55 mm. To strengthen the unit, use corners measuring 30x30x3 mm.

The load capacity of such a homemade crane will be about 150 kg. If it is necessary to lift panels with a larger mass, then it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of chain hoists, which are a device for lifting loads. The chain hoist is made of blocks, connected to each other by a cable. This cable should wind the blocks in a circle. The chain hoist allows you to lift the panels, while applying less force than the weight of the load.

Polyspast wins in strength 3-4 times. In this case, friction losses are taken into account, which are 10%. The greater the gain in strength, the smaller the distance that the tool can move the panels.

You can prepare and make all the details in 7-10 days.

Another 2 days are needed to assemble the mechanism. The lifting scheme is made in the form of a 2-fold chain hoist. The boom turning unit is a 6-fold chain hoist. The turntable is made by attaching 2 washers. The axle replaces the 30mm bolt.

To reduce the size of the counterweights, the supporting legs are made 2 m long. With a washer turning radius of 200 mm and a distance of 2 m to the counterweight of 100 kg, a load of 1 t will act on the bolt. This is taken into account when calculating the tool design. Perform stability calculations.

The design is taken as a single system on one support. It is the smallest distance from the axis of rotation. The system is affected by: the weight of the load, counterweight and crane. The lifting drum is created from a pipe with a cross section of 100 mm. It should not be installed close to the blocks. It is fixed closer to the washers.

Blocks are made of 3 washers. They must be wrapped around with a cord, the diameter of the blocks must be large so that the ropes do not fly out of the washers. Blocks are fixed without bearings.

A flexible cable with a cross section of 5 mm is needed. Its working load is 150 kg, and its breaking load is 850 kg. The chain hoist operates on the principle of a lever. For a chain hoist, the main indicator is its multiplicity (the ratio of all branches of the cable to those extending from the drum).

If the cord has 6 parts, then the pulling force on the drum will be 6 times less weight cargo. If a rope is made to lift 100 kg of load, then folded 6 times, it will lift a load of 600 kg. When all the systems are ready, you need to assemble them, according to the drawn up design scheme, taking into account all the dimensions and rules for attaching components and parts. After assembly, it is necessary to lubricate all structural systems and its individual parts with Lysol.

Following all the above instructions, you can independently make a crane for building a house and any utility rooms used on the farm. Before starting operation, it is necessary to check the operability of all components of the created crane design. Then carry out a verification test of the equipment for the possibility of lifting and moving loads.

Practically at any construction site one cannot do without special equipment, especially without a construction crane. It becomes an indispensable assistant when it is necessary to lift heavy loads to different heights.

Most people associate this technique with huge size, but there are many varieties of faucets that are ergonomic and compact.

Some options can even be made by hand, saving personal savings during construction. In this article, we will consider how to assemble a homemade Pioneer crane for building a house.

Construction mini crane: scope

Mini cranes enjoy in great demand. They are used in construction and repair work. Modern manufacturers offer innovative solutions in the manufacture of their products.

These devices are:

• maneuverability;
• a wide range of applications;
• functionality;
• ease of use.

Due to the presence of various nozzles, various manipulations can be carried out with this technique.

Mini cranes - both purchased and assembled at home, are able to work in the most hard-to-reach places: In cramped yards, dense urban construction sites, uneven ground, inside buildings and on rooftops. Compact dimensions allow special equipment to even pass through single or double doors.

They are often used for fine, almost jewelry work. Manufacturers modern technology experimented with matchbox that needed to be moved from one place to another. At the same time, the device did not crush or crush cardboard box such a tiny size.

The presence of a control panel for the units allows users to control the workflow, standing next to the equipment near the load, but only purchased units assembled at the factory have such advantages.

To make such a device yourself, you are unlikely to succeed. But you can try to build something similar. Of course, a self-assembled mini crane will not differ in too much functionality, but it will be able to lift loads of a certain mass to a specified height.

A simple mini-faucet with your own hands

If you make a mini crane with your own hands, it will be able to lift loads weighing up to 250 kg. This will greatly simplify the construction process on site. He will cope with the lifting of logs, concrete mortar, roofing materials. With it, you will be able to independently engage in construction, without attracting a large number of workers.

The main thing in the manufacture of a mini crane: prepare a drawing, necessary tools and details. The weight of this design can reach 300 kg. It depends on what materials you will use when assembling. Despite the impressive weight, the mini crane will be distinguished by its compact size and high performance.

Assembling a mini crane with your own hands consists of the following steps:

1. With the help of a gearbox, a cargo winch is attached to the worm base.
2. Building supports are the basis for screw remote systems.
3. In addition to the basic design, drums for winches are required to assemble the unit. Making them on your own is quite problematic. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase ready-made products.
4. As a basis, you can use rotors from an electric motor.

Attention: at self assembly mini crane, Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the ratio of the dimensions of the elements and the dimensions of the future device.

To make the device convenient to use, its platform can be equipped with wheels. This is where an old conveyor trolley comes to the rescue.

Do-it-yourself mini cranes features include:

• The optimum boom height is 5 meters. To make it yourself, you will need to use a pipe with a diameter of 8 cm.
• A profile of 2 corners is mounted on the base and a swivel mechanism is created to rotate the boom. As rotary mechanism a car hub from a truck is suitable.
• To build a counterweight, special materials are not needed. Ordinary bricks can act as them.

Types of manual taps

All construction cranes are classified into:

• self-propelled;
• stationary;
• tower;
• special purpose.

This technique is equipped with an arrow departure mechanism, a cargo trolley, a rotating support.

By type of movement, they are divided into:

• stationary;
• adjustable;
• self-elevating;
• mobile.

According to the type of control, these devices are electric and manual (mechanical).

Lift

Modern lifts by type are divided into:

• Foot. They are capable of lifting heavy loads weighing up to 2 tons to a height of 8 meters.
• Telescopic. Their advantages include: low weight and compactness. These devices are capable of lifting loads to a working height of up to 150 kg.

They, in turn, are divided into:

• self-propelled;
• non-self-propelled.

When choosing a lift, it is worth considering several factors: their dimensions, load capacity, scope.

To make a lift on your own, prepare the materials and a preliminary drawing. For its construction we need:

• winch, which can be made from a drum and a cable;
• pipes;
• electric drive.

The advantages of construction hoists include:

• maneuverability;
• high load capacity;
• security;
• convenience in operation.

scissor crane

The scissor crane is a simple and easy-to-operate structure. Due to their versatility and functionality, these devices are used in assembly and construction work. They are also often found in supermarkets and warehouses.

A scissor crane lifts tons of cargo every day. This technique, in addition to the construction industry, is regularly used in the maintenance of advertising billboards, facade signs, elevators.

Their main benefits include:

• performance;
• high load capacity;
• compact dimensions when folded;
• a wide range of applications;
• maneuverability.

Also, their advantages include autonomy - they are able to work on batteries. In addition, cranes can be equipped with different types drives:

• electrohydraulic;
• diesel;
• electric;
• hydraulic.

Most often in construction, models with electric drives are used. They are distinguished by affordable cost, environmental friendliness and ease of use.

There are a large number of variations of this type of apparatus, but almost all of them consist of:

• lifting device,
• mobile platform;
• equal speed drive wheels.

To build a scissor crane on your own, you will need to make the base and platform of the apparatus from the channel. To make scissors you will need:

• two-section distributor;
• bushings;
• pump;
• hydraulic cylinder;
• double beams.

A self-made scissor crane is capable of lifting loads weighing up to half a ton. This device installed on the UAZ, and after operation - removed. The basis of the design will be a thick square bolted to the frame, and retractable pores will be held on the bumper of the car.

Crane Pioneer

Pioneer type lift is distinguished by excellent technical specifications. It is light in weight, agile and portable. The advantages of this device include the possibility of quick and easy assembly and disassembly.

To deliver the device to the construction site, it can be disassembled and folded into a simple gazelle. After work, it is also easy to disassemble and transport back. You can install the crane in any place: on the ground, in a pit, roof, on building floors.

This special equipment is produced by different companies in three main modifications of cranes, lifting capacity, arrows.

If necessary, the Pioneer crane can be made on its own, having the necessary expendable materials, tools, well-designed drawing and free time.

As for the scope of the Pioneer, it can be used to move various items for any weather conditions. It is able to deliver cargo to any floor or building structure. With it, you can deliver: tools, inventory, building materials and the like.

Quite often, this device is used in the installation of roofs. With it, you can quickly lift various loads, machines, metal constructions, materials.

Advantages of the Pioneer crane

The main advantages of the Pioneer crane include:

• ease of use - thanks to a simple and reliable design;
• the ability to assemble and disassemble the device within half an hour;
• mobility, allowing the unit to be used even at distant objects;
• little power consumption.

Important: Pioneer crane is able to rotate the boom 360 degrees.

But this unit also has its drawbacks:

• it is capable of lifting a weight of no more than 1 ton;
• if you hang a flexible load on it, it is not always convenient and safe.

Do-it-yourself Pioneer crane

The Pioneer crane has a simple design. It consists of the following elements:

1. main support frame. It can be collapsible, bolted or stand on wheels. A second swivel frame is attached to it;
2. Safety stretch marks, cargo ropes, electric drive;
3. Swivel boom. It can be collapsible or bolted;
4. End stop mechanism. It is located at the end of the arrow;
5. A limit switch located on the mechanism responsible for lifting the load.

So, if you started building on personal plot, and there is no desire and financial opportunities to hire special equipment - try to assemble a crane with your own hands. With it, you do not need to lift heavy loads yourself.

Attention: Pioneer construction crane is a collapsible structure designed to lift loads. It can be used when digging a foundation pit for the foundation of a house, when installing a roof, building walls at high altitude.

The basis of the mechanism is the supporting running frame, which is installed either permanently or on the chassis. A part of the crane that rotates is installed on the frame. The boom can be rotated manually or electrically.

The lifting of the load from this device is carried out with the help of a winch, and stability is achieved thanks to the counterweight and lanyards (steel cable braces).

Materials and tools

For the manufacture of the device, we need the following materials, which can be found in the garage or in a specialty store:

• rectangular pipe;
• I-beam;
• telescopic assembly for an I-beam;
• cables of small diameter;
• channel;
• electric motor;
• winch.

Of the tools you will need:

• keys;
• hammer;
• screwdriwer set.

Construction scheme

To make a Pioneer crane with your own hands, you need to make a competent scheme. It should be strictly indicated: materials of manufacture, dimensions of each individual element, methods of fastening parts.

When creating a scheme for a future design, it is worth carefully calculating everything. If you are not completely versed in this, it is better to invite a specialist. Having a well-designed scheme in your hands, you will be able to independently manufacture and assemble the device in the shortest possible time.

Assembly features

As for the assembly of the product, then:

1. The crane frame is assembled from a corner 63x63x5 mm.
2. For a 5-meter arrow, a pipe with a diameter of 5-8 cm is required.
3. To strengthen the structure, you will need 2 corners, 30x30x3 mm in size.

The carrying capacity of such a device will be 150 kg. If the ropes are reinforced, heavier loads can also be lifted.

Attention: making an electric faucet at home is quite difficult. It will be more expensive and take longer.

When choosing an I-beam, it is worth making sure that it freely enters the pipe. It will be mounted on sliding guides, resulting in a telescopic assembly.

In order for a homemade crane to function well, you will need to equip it with cables of small diameter. They are best purchased at a specialized store. To weld the support structure and the swing frame, a channel bar must be used.

Thanks to him, the crane will be well fixed on the surface. For safe operation apparatus, it is recommended to weld the platform according to the type of a rectangle.

To start the lifting process, you will need to purchase an electric motor and connect it to a winch from UAZ.

Attention: if you want the electric motor to start electrically, invite a specialized craftsman. Although this procedure is not particularly difficult, for safety reasons it is better to use the services of a professional.

That's the whole process of assembling a Pioneer crane with your own hands.

Specifications

The manufacture and assembly of the construction Crane Pioneer has a lot of positive aspects. Its installation on construction site will help you save on the number of builders. With it you can lift roofing materials, timber, working tools and equipment to the required height.

After Assembly homemade device you can see its technical characteristics:

• The load capacity of the device can vary between 0.5–1 tons. It all depends on the materials used in the assembly.
• The height of the crane will be 4 meters.
• The platform can be rotated 360 degrees.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that when starting construction on a personal plot, in order to save money, try to assemble special equipment with your own hands. Of course, you will spend your free time on such manipulations, but you can save a lot. Even big construction companies do not always buy special equipment. They usually resort to renting units.

modern houses building higher and higher concrete blocks it doesn't get any easier. And therefore, if you think carefully, you can build a small crane with your own hands. Such a carrying capacity is not large, about two hundred kilograms, although, most likely, it can lift more weight, but it is not advisable to overload it greatly. This design turns out to be completely collapsible, its components are obtained by weighing approximately 20-30 kilograms, so assembling such a crane alone will not be any particular problem. In addition, a similar design is also easily transported; the body of a Chinese pickup truck was quite suitable for me.

Recall that earlier we already published an article about a home-made baby crane, who are interested in watching.

crane device

The cargo winch of my design is a worm gear on electric drive at 600 W, but the boom winch is a manual drive, organized on the same gearbox. Outriggers with screw stops are borrowed from building supports. Drums for winches managed to be machined from rotors from electric motors, were chosen to be the right size.

On the basis of the mobile platform, there are four wheels taken from the conveyor, thanks to which the crane can be moved from one place to another without any problems, only if the outriggers of the crane are removed. Such an operation to remove and install outriggers takes about five minutes. Therefore, the crane is quite mobile. But there is not a big drawback, to move the crane it is necessary to lower the boom to zero, otherwise it becomes impossible to move the crane, as its balance is disturbed.

The boom itself has a length of 5 meters, the pipe was picked up by O75 mm, and at the base of the boom itself there is a square-shaped profile made of two corners. There is also a portal for raising the boom, as well as a turning unit made from a hub from a truck. As a counterweight, a bed was taken from a non-functioning machine along with four tracks from a caterpillar mechanism. The brake in the winch is not provided in this case, because it is not necessary. There is also no brake in the turn itself, due to the fact that the speeds are very low, and, therefore, there is practically no inertia.

The minimum thickness of the metal used in my crane is about 3 mm, as an outrigger and base as a whole, a rectangular pipe is used, having dimensions of 85 * 50 and 85 * 55 - this is a kind of remains from agricultural equipment. The base of the tower is made of channel 200. A powerful bearing is inserted into the hook cage, therefore, the hook is able to rotate regardless of the chain hoist, in order to avoid overlapping or twisting of the cable itself.

Stop screws 400 mm long, as a result of which the crane can be installed on very uneven surfaces.

There is one small flaw associated with the wheels. The thing is that the wheels used in this case, when moving on loose soil, simply burrow into it, on a hard, compacted surface - everything is fine. This crane is considered disposable, that is, after performing necessary work it is dismantled for scrap or in a shelter until the next use. That is why this design has an insignificant load capacity, not very outstanding strength.

The manufacturing time for such a crane will take about three days, taking into account the preparation of all the necessary components. In this case, the gearboxes were obtained from what came to hand, the gearboxes have such gear ratios of 1/30 and 1/35. , output parameters on the shaft 600 W, capacitor capacitance 80 microfarads. All installations, excluding counterweights, weigh up to 250 kg, the cost of such a design is 4000 rubles. Mostly used components are borrowed from other equipment, only cables and bearings are new here.

Such a crane lifts one and a half hundred kilograms of cargo without problems, more, so far it has not been possible to move it at home.

The main components of the crane photo

When building a house from aerated concrete, timber, bricks, etc. often there is a need to lift the load. For example, you need to "throw" blocks or wooden beams to the second floor, raise the bags of cement or fill in the armored belt. Doing it manually, even with the help of assistants, is not so easy - health is more expensive. Hiring a truck crane or a manipulator for a small amount of work is expensive. The way out is to use a mini-crane, which, to reduce the cost of construction, is made by hand.

• How to make a lift for laying aerated concrete.
• What parts and tools are needed to build a mini-crane.
• How to reduce the cost of building a universal lift.

Elevator for laying aerated concrete blocks

Abroad, in the construction of private houses, cranes and various hoists are often used. So construction goes faster, which means that the “box” is cheaper, because. it is more profitable to use small-scale mechanization than to hire laborers. Our developer relies on himself and often builds a house "in one helmet". Therefore, the question is acute, how not to physically overstrain, laying a wall of aerated concrete blocks weighing 35-40 kg.

An interesting variant of an unusual home-made "assistant" user FORUMHOUSE with a nickname Cross. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable center column

The peculiarity of the lift is the original folding “arm-arrow”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

Cross

I am building a house on my own and, in order to be able to lay aerated concrete blocks, built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. Maximum load he did not measure on the hook, but he calmly lifts me (weight 95 kg).

Technical characteristics of the lift:

• width - 2200 mm;
• height - 4200 mm;
• boom outreach - 4200 mm;
• load capacity of electric hoist - up to 800 kg;
• the total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
• the weight of the lift without ballast is about 300 kg;
• the maximum lifting height of the masonry block is 3500 mm.

The working height of lifting blocks is adjustable in two ranges. The first is 1750 mm. The second is 3.5 m, for which the structure rises, sliding up along the supporting “legs” with the help of a hydraulic jack lined with spacers made of GB blocks.

For the manufacture of the lift, the user needed:

• swivel wheels;
• profile pipes for the mast, "legs" and arrows with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
• jib pipes - 63x3 mm;
• powerful hinges from the gate;
• the boom swivel mechanism is made of ST45 steel and "205's" bearings.

During operation, the design was finalized. For example, the user has laid the cable for the winch in the corrugated pipe and extended the cable of the control panel.

Cross

The design has a number of shortcomings that I would like to correct. For example, I'm thinking of making wireless control, replacing gate hinges with bearings. Increase the number of "joints" in the arrow at the same reach. Instead of a temporary counterweight - bags with sand concrete, pour concrete ballast.

Important nuance: so that the hoist can move around the construction site or, for example, along concrete slab floors of the second floor, you need to maintain workplace clean, because fragments of GB, debris interfere with the rearrangement of the crane.

The design of an unusual lift interested the users of the portal.

Konstantin Ya. Member of FORUMHOUSE

With such a lift, I think, as they do in Germany, you need to make masonry from blocks larger than the standard ones. The length and height is 2-3 times larger than the usual GB. The crane has enough load capacity, and the laying speed will increase significantly.

According to cross, he heard that on the portal someone had already tried to order blocks of 1x0.4x0.6 m format from the manufacturer of gas silicate. But it turned out that this was unprofitable for the plant, because you need to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, and for the sake of a small volume (for a regular private house) will not do so.

Vegaroma Member of FORUMHOUSE

I'm wondering: did the work on the site become easier when using a crane? What works can be done with it, and what can not?

Cross

There is no need to set up scaffolding when laying walls from GB. The lift can be assembled and disassembled. I poured concrete lintels over the windows in the old fashioned way, from buckets, because. the volume is small, and it is easier to do this with one assistant.

Grand total: the mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the hoist can be put into small-scale production.

Scrap Mini Crane

Another option lifting mechanism from metal, "rolling underfoot", made a member of the portal with the nickname Peter 1.

According to Peter 1, the reason for building a crane is that the house is getting taller and the blocks and concrete are getting heavier. Therefore, having made an audit of "unnecessary things", the user made a fully collapsible crane with a lifting capacity of 200 kg.

Peter 1

I think my crane can lift more, but I did not overload it. The crane is disassembled into parts weighing 30-60 kg and is easily transported in a trailer passenger car. I carry an arrow in the trunk. In statics, I tested a structure weighing 400 kg. I usually lift loads up to 150 kg. This is enough for me for my construction needs.

At one time, the crane, with an outreach of 5 m, lifts 10 blocks weighing 15 kg each, or four 15-liter buckets with a solution.

The design of the crane is a prefabricated "hodgepodge" of what was at hand. Let's list the main details:

• swivel assembly - hub from the truck;

The hub from cars, trucks, and farm equipment is often used to make a swivel assembly in homemade faucets. The main thing is to calculate the loads acting on it and fasteners.

• the arrow is made of a pipe with a diameter of 75 mm;

• outriggers and base - a rectangular pipe with a section of 8x5 and 8.5x5.5 cm;

• the base of the tower - the "200th" channel;

• worm gearboxes for boom and cargo winches.

• three-phase electric motor with reverse, power 0.9 kW, converted to power from a 220 V network;

The crane turned out to be mobile, and by lowering the boom, it can be moved from place to place, rolling on wheels on compacted soil. Level adjustment is carried out using screw supports.

Metal, gearboxes and rollers were bought at a second-hand store. New cable and bearings only.

The weight of the crane without counterweight is about 250 kg. The cost of construction, taking into account the purchase of consumables - cutting discs for angle grinders, electrodes for welding inverter and paints - 4 thousand rubles.

Peter 1

Crane, + time for turning, + selection of components and fitting of units, I did in 3 working days. In the future, when the work is completed, I will completely disassemble it.

Inexpensive mini lift

Practice shows that a real crane is not always needed when building a private house. Often, the developer can do without " little blood»and make a small hoist based on an electric hoist.

Gexx Member FORUMHOUSE

My design is simpler than that of the authors above, but it suits me just fine. I bought a hoist with a load capacity of 300 kg without a block and 600 kg with a block. Tests showed that the device can lift a load weighing 250-270 kg, then the engine protection worked. During the construction season, I used it to lift about 40 pallets of building blocks, 6-meter beam for Mauerlat, rafters, mortar for masonry and concrete for the armored belt.

The lift, again out of economy, is made from used pipes, an angle and a channel.

These are topics that detail how to make an aerated concrete hoist, and provide dozens of mini-crane options, from simple to the most complex designs.

Articles are also useful: a home-made Pioneer mini-crane, features of manual arc welding and the choice of a welding inverter, as well as a home-made side-turn mini-tractor with a hydraulic drive.

In the video - how to build a house of aerated concrete without hired workers.

To make some parts of the toy, you will need templates that you will find at the end of this article. Make copies of these templates and use spray adhesive to attach them to the blanks, cut and sand along the contour lines, and then drill holes in specified places. Remove the paper templates by moistening them with mineral spirits and finish sanding the details. sandpaper № 220.

Start with a massive truck crane chassis

1. Saw out a 25x160x575 mm blank from a walnut board for the lower landing gear (A). Saw off a 19 mm wide strip from each edge of the workpiece, mark for proper orientation later, and set aside. Cut out the chassis top B, deck C, outriggers and K uprights (Figures 1 and 3, BOM). Temporarily leave these details aside.

2. Install a 6 mm thick slotted blade in the saw and set its overhang to 16 mm. In several passes, cut out grooves 38 mm wide across the lower landing gear A (Fig. 2). Then raise the disk to a height of 19 mm and make a couple more grooves 6 mm wide inside each wide groove (photo A).

3. Prepare a strip of 3x6x305 mm for the stops F. Cut the stops to the specified length (photo B) and glue them into the narrow grooves of the bottom part of the chassis A (photo C).

4. Make a counterbore 25x13 mm with an 8 mm hole on the bottom landing gear A from below, and then five axial holes with a diameter of 9 mm on each edge (Fig. 2). Please note: the centers of the axial holes are not located in the middle of the thickness of the lower part.

5. Take the previously sawn off strips. From the front end of each of them, saw off a block LONG 64 mm. Glue these blocks back to bottom part A, lining up with the front torn. When the glue dries, make cuts on the front end imitating a lattice (Fig. 2). Then cut out the cutouts on the front corners, as shown in photo D.

6. Mark and sand down the 3 mm bevel on the bottom of chassis A (fig. 2). Then, with a 10 mm drill, make holes in front and behind that imitate headlights and marker lights (Fig. 1 and 2), equally located at each end.

7. Take the retractable supports D cut earlier. Drill holes in the indicated places and make a cut in the center with a band saw (Fig. 3). Glue pieces of a 6 mm dowel 10 mm long into the blind holes, which should protrude no more than 3 mm above the surface.

8. Insert the outriggers into the slots in the bottom of the chassis A so that the dowels fit into the narrow slots. Lay on top, without gluing, the upper part of the chassis B and fix the assembly with clamps. Make sure the outriggers move easily and smoothly. If necessary, sand them further.

Note. The supports should not be inserted tightly so as not to get stuck when the humidity changes. Once you've finished fitting, glue both landing gears together (photo E). Once the glue is dry, finish sanding the chassis with #220 sandpaper.

9. Take the sawn-out E-pillars and cut 3mm chamfers around the top ends (fig. 3). Drill a 10mm hole in the center and glue in a 57mm piece of maple dowel. Set the racks aside to dry.

Moving on to the cockpit and engine compartment

1. Glue the G-cabin block and saw to the dimensions shown in the Materials List. Glue a paper copy of the cabin template to one edge and cut out the part along the contour. Drill holes on both sides where indicated. Note. There is no need to make a through hole.

Make chamfers on all the edges of the cab, except for the bottom ones.

2. Glue the cabin G to the bottom of the chassis A, aligning it in the middle of the width (fig. 4). Then take deck C and glue it to the top of chassis B (photo F). When the glue is dry, turn the A-D/F/G assembly over and through the hole in the bottom of the chassis, drill an 8mm through hole in the top fly and deck (fig. 1).

3 Cut out the workpiece for the engine compartment H. File and grind the bevel (Fig. 4a), cut the chamfers and make cuts imitating the lattice. Finish sanding the part and glue it to deck C close to cab G.

4. For steps I, take a maple blank measuring 16x54x305 mm. Saw out tongues in it with a section of 6 × 5 mm with 6 mm gaps (Fig. 4b). Saw off two parts with a length of 25 mm from the workpiece. Temporarily attach the wheels to the chassis with wooden axles. Glue the steps to both parts of the chassis A, B close to the flooring C, aligning in the middle between the two rear pairs of wheels.

5. For the manufacture of the boom support J, take a workpiece measuring 13x102x65 mm (Fig. 4c). Cut a groove 52 mm wide with a 6 mm indent from one of the ends. Now do longitudinal cut to separate the boom support of the specified dimensions from the workpiece. Glue the part to the engine compartment H (fig. 4).

Make a turntable

1. After sawing platform K (Fig. 4d), file and grind the rounding along the radius at the rear end; drill holes in the indicated places, insert M8 * 75 bolts with a washer into them and fix with epoxy glue.

2. Having attached copies of the corresponding templates to the blanks, saw out the counterweight L, the top plate M and the crane cab N in shape.

3. Glue cabin N to the front corner of platform K (fig. 4). Then glue the counterweight L to the platform (photo G). Once the adhesive has set, glue the top plate M to the counterweight, centering on the edges and flush with the counterweight cutout.

Make an arrow cylinder

1. From a 10x19x305 mm maple blank, saw off eight O-rings and shape them according to the template. Drill a 5mm hole in each lug and set these parts aside.

2. To make the P cylinder, take a 16x19x203mm maple blank. Brief advice! Have several blanks of the same size on hand to check the settings of the router table and saw machine. Install in milling table 6 mm semi-circular cutter so that it protrudes 3 mm above the table surface. Adjust the rip fence to align the cutter in the middle of the narrow edge of the workpiece, and cut the flute on opposite edges (photo H). Saw the workpiece lengthwise into two halves and glue again so that the grooves facing each other form a cylindrical channel (photo I).

3 When the glue is dry, mill rounds on all four edges of the cylinder blank (photo J). Saw off the ends of the workpiece to give the I* cylinder a final length of 152mm.

4 In the same way as you did the eyelets O, make two parts of the hinge Q for the ends of the cylinder in accordance with the template. Drill a 5mm hole in the indicated location, and also drill a 6mm hole in the center of the end face of each piece. Prepare pieces of a 6 mm dowel 13 and 152 mm long and glue them into the holes at the ends of the parts (Fig. 5).

5. Saw out the base of the R boom to the specified dimensions and finish sanding. Prepare two lengths of MS threaded stud, 41 mm LONG, place each cylinder hinge Q between two lugs O and fasten with a threaded stud by adding a pair of cap nuts (fig. 5). Glue the short dowel O/Q assembly to the base of the arrow.

6. In accordance with the template, cut out the sidewalls S in shape and drill holes in the indicated places. Glue the sides to the edges of the base R and check for squareness (fig. 7).

7. When the glue is dry, glue the assembled base O/Q/R/S to the turntable K, positioning the counterweight L in the cutout.

Crane needs an arrow

1. Cut out the side T, V, X and upper/lower U, W, Y planks of the boom sections. Drill 25 and 19 mm holes in the side rails of the lower and middle sections and chamfer their edges (Fig. 6), and drill 10 mm holes in the side rails of the upper section. Make a counterbore 10x3 mm on inside only one side bar for the bottom section and one for the middle section (fig. 6). Then drill a hole with a diameter of 5 mm in the center of the counterbores. Glue an M5 nut into each counterbore with epoxy glue. Brief advice! Using the tip of a toothpick or thin nail, carefully apply the epoxy around the perimeter of the zebok and make sure it doesn't get into the threads of the nut and the center hole.

2. Cut out the end cap Z, leaving both ends square for now, and the same spacer. Assemble the lower section of the boom (photos K, L). Cut spacers to assemble the middle and top sections, but do not glue them. Drill a 6mm hole in the lower T/U/Z section (fig. 6).

3. Once thoroughly dry, test the boom assembly by inserting the X/Y section into the V/W and the V/W into the T/U/Z. Each of them should slide out easily without getting stuck. If required, further sand or file the surfaces and then finish sanding the boom sections.

4. Take the hinge of the cylinder with the mine dowel and glue it to the lower section of the arrow T / U / Z (photo M). band saw file the rounding at the bottom end of the bottom section and the top end of the top X/Y section (fig. 6). Using a saw, make a 6 mm deep cut in the middle of the upper end of the upper section for the cord (Fig. 7). Glue the four remaining eyelets O in place, aligning them to the middle of the width of each boom section.

5. Insert the closed lower end of the lower section O/T/U/Z between the sides of the base S and slide the long dowel into the channel of the cylinder P. Fix the lower section with an M6 * 75 bolt and a self-locking nut (Fig. 7).

6. From a 16 mm wooden dowel, saw off three pieces 10 mm long. Drill a 6 mm hole 5 mm deep in one of them, glue a dowel 86 mm long and set aside for subsequent assembly of the lifting mechanism gate. From the two remaining segments, make handwheels by drilling a 5 mm hole 6 mm deep in the center of each and gluing a 16 mm long section of the M5 threaded stud with epoxy glue (Fig. 7a). Once the adhesive has hardened, thread these studs into the nuts attached to the lower and middle sections of the boom. 11After final assembly, these handwheels can be used to lock the middle and upper boom sections O/V/W, O/X/Y in position.

Assemble the lifting mechanism

1. Cut out the AA crank according to the template and sand it. Drill blind holes on opposite sides of the part. Glue a dowel 35 mm long into one of the holes (Fig. 7).

2. To assemble the lifting mechanism, take the gate handwheel made in step 6 previous section, and insert into the hole in the side panel S (fig. 7). Place the 10mm spring, the 30x22mm wood spool and the second spring before threading the dowel through the hole on the opposite side. Glue the AA crank to the end of the dowel.

Brief advice! If the coil turns around the dowel, secure it with a small screw or stud.

3. Use spray adhesive to attach a copy of the block template to a 13 mm thick walnut blank, cut along the contour and drill holes in the center of each end, as indicated on the template. Screw a screw with a ring into the upper hole (Fig. 7). Taking a finishing nail, grind off a sharp tip with an emery stone, bend the nail in the form of a hook. Glue it with epoxy glue to the bottom hole of the BB block.

4. Remove all fasteners except those glued with epoxy, separate the boom sections, sand any areas that need it, and apply a finish coat to all wooden details including wheels. (We applied semi-gloss nitro varnish from an aerosol can three times.)

Note. Tape the ends of the wooden axles with masking tape to keep the surfaces clean for gluing.

After each application, extend and retract the dowel, which acts as a piston in the cylinder, and the sliding supports D several times so that the parts do not stick.

5. Reassemble the faucet, adding a drop of blue sealant to each cap nut to secure threaded connections. Fix the dowels of the racks E in the holes of the retractable supports D with threaded stud pieces with cap nuts (Fig. 3). After adding a plastic washer between turntable K and deck C, secure the turntable assembly with a self-locking nut and washer (fig. 4). Tighten the nut so that the platform does not rock but can rotate freely.

6. Tie the end of the 10' cord to the spool and thread the free end through all of the lugs O and cut through the top end of the 0/X/Y upper section of the boom.

Tie the cord to the upper ring of the BB block and wind it around the spool. Drive a screw with a ring into the lower cut of the grate on the lower part of the chassis A and catch the hook on it when the crane is not lifting loads. Place a wheel and washer on each axle, then apply a dab of glue and insert the axles into the holes on the bottom of the chassis.

7. When the glue is dry, put on a hard hat, secure the outrigger legs and extend the boom. Ahead of a difficult job with heavy loads.