Homemade crane for building a house. Do-it-yourself crane - how to make it from scrap materials

Crane, made by yourself, will always come in handy on the farm for everyone who has a dacha, or for those who live in a private house. It will be especially needed by those owners who are not afraid of various independent construction and repair work. Renting such equipment, and even more so buying it, will cost a considerable amount. And to make a crane with your own hands, in fact, is quite simple - you will learn about this in this article. Try to understand the proposed instructions step by step, doing all the work, and you will get an excellent tool for domestic use.

Manufacturing

For further work you will need the following materials:

Worm gear ( electric drive should be 600 watts).
Building supports.
Secondary materials and tools for construction and repair.

Working process

Most of the necessary useful tools it is quite possible to make it yourself, thereby well saving the family budget. In general, such a structure is assembled very simply and as quickly as possible. The algorithm described below will help even an inexperienced master. The main thing is to choose everything for the future construction the right details and work tools.

Important! In the end, the resulting design will have a weight of approximately 250-300 kg. At the same time, it will be quite compact. A self-made crane will not have a very high lifting capacity (approximately 200 kg), however, this will be more than enough for most home construction or repair work.

Let's move on to the very algorithm for making a mini-crane with your own hands:

Our mechanism will have 2 bearings. In the upper part between the body and the base there will be a thrust bearing. Below is a simple radial bearing. Under the lower bearing count inner diameter housing, as well as the outer diameter of the base.

Important! Both that and the other part must fit tightly into the bearing. Thus, both parts are connected.

In order to more securely fix the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below, the thickness of the threaded and supporting parts of which must be at least 3 mm.
Next, this node is attached to the platform with a bolt, which will attract the base to the platform. So you get the following design: the platform with the base will be stationary, and the body with the nut will rotate.

Important! To tighten the bolt that will be attached to the base of the platform, it will be necessary ring spanner with an extension cord, as well as two washers - a grover and a flat one.

It's time to move on to making a mini-crane stand with your own hands. Its height should be up to your waist. In order to make it, they store a piece of pipe and 4 pieces of a channel. You can evenly cut the end of the pipe using a car clamp and tightening it on it, then cut an even circle with a grinder.
Next, a platform is welded to the cut end rotary mechanism, which must be ordered based on the dimensions of the pipe you have chosen.
Next, proceed to the manufacture of legs. They are welded in such a way that the rack itself does not collapse.
Now you can move on to hanging the pipe with the platform already welded. The rope is passed into the hole in the center of the platform of the rotary mechanism, and the legs are substituted obliquely to the pipe. Thus, the pipe should hang evenly, and the legs should rest on it from all four sides.
After finding the balance of the crane with your own hands, the corners of the channels resting on the pipe are outlined by eye and cut with a grinder.
Next, they proceed to the manufacture of the supporting cross and attaching it to the legs with the help of nuts. It is usually made from various rigid profiles.
After that, they go to the crane platform, where there will be a counterweight, as well as an arrow and a winch. The platform is attached to the body of the rotary mechanism with four bolts.

Important! As a platform, you can use a 1.5-meter I-beam, the width of which will be approximately 18 cm.

Let's move on to the block of counterweights - it is usually made from pieces of a channel, but other options are also acceptable. Ultimately, the main thing is the quality of the resulting cargo container.
The winch is usually installed with a capacity of 0.5 tons, with a brake.
It remains to make an arrow for a crane with your own hands. It is always made from a bar, a mount with a shaft and a tip with a pulley.
The fastening body is made from a piece of channel, and for the shaft, for example, a piece of the rotor shaft from some old engine is suitable. After that, it is bent in a vice, and two brackets are attached around it, after which it is fixed to the fastening body, which will later be inserted into the prepared timber.
They are purchased for ordinary bearings that will fit tightly on the shaft. A seat is cut out in the mounting housing.
The bearings are fixed in the housing.
The beam is attached to the channel with ties made of a metal strip, the thickness of which is approximately 3 millimeters.
At the end of the boom, a pulley for the cable is fixed.
Next, the arrow is assembled, having previously strengthened it.
After that, they proceed to the assembly of the entire crane platform with their own hands. A winch is installed on it, under the winch - a block of counterweights, on the other hand - an arrow lifting body with an arrow.

Important! The entire assembly must take place in a recumbent position, and upon completion, the structure must be lifted so that it is in an upright position on some kind of support.

The swivel mechanism is attached to the rack, after which a platform is installed on it so that the boom and counterweight are in balance.
The assembled crane platform is suspended and lifted in such a way that it is possible to substitute a rack under it.
Raise the platform with a winch. To do this, its cable is passed through the block and hooked to the boom lifting housing located at the other end of the platform.
The platform is lifted with a winch.
Hanging it in this way, and substituting a rack under it, they catch a position where the counterweight balances the arrow.
In this position, four through holes are drilled and the platform is bolted to the rack.

Any of the users of the site will agree with the statement that one of the most necessary during construction is a crane. The steel hero becomes an indispensable assistant when it becomes necessary to lift a large load.

The lifting mechanism is usually associated with a huge structure tens of meters high. However, in private housing construction, when compact mechanisms for construction come to the fore, one needs an option with an arrow length not exceeding 5-7 meters.

But renting it is not a cheap pleasure, especially if the construction stretches for more than one month.

In this case, there is only one way out - roll up your sleeves and build a homemade mini-crane with your own hands. And our members of the forum will help you with this!

How to make a homemade faucet

Saving on one's own health and trying to manually lift an unbearable load, especially if the construction of the house is carried out independently and without the involvement of hired labor, do not lead to good. We have already told our readers. Now we are making a crane with our own hands to build a house called " mini pioneer.

"Pioneer" is a mobile collapsible structure, with the help of which the load is lifted to a predetermined height. So homemade the crane can be used when digging foundations and construction and installation work on the construction of houses.

The basis of the mechanism is a supporting running frame installed permanently or on a mobile chassis. The rotating part of the crane is mounted on the frame. The boom can be rotated manually or electrically. The design of the crane itself is made according to the modular principle and can be disassembled into several parts for the convenience of moving the mechanism from one construction site to another.

The stability of the structure is ensured by the counterweight and steel cable braces (turnbuckles), and the load is lifted using a winch and a block.

The experience of our forum member, who decided to independently build a mini Pioneer, is interesting. He needed this construction mechanism for the construction of a private house from a bar.

Voldemort:

- I am almost alone building a house from a six-meter beam. It is impossible to lift and carry it alone. That is why I decided to assemble a mechanism in order to take the timber from the stack, put it in the sawing place and lift it to the plinth.

As the height of the building increases, our forum member plans to put a crane on the floor beams of the house.

The forum member assembled the frame from a corner of 63x63x5 mm. An arrow 5 meters long was made from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. To strengthen the structure, two corners 30x30x3 mm were used. Also in the plans voldemora includes a further lengthening of the boom by another 2 meters.

Voldemort:

- The load capacity of the mechanism is approximately 150 kg, but the design can lift more weight, and in order to achieve this, it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of chain hoists.

Translated from Greek, Polyspaston means "stretched with several ropes." A chain hoist is a construction device for lifting a load. It consists of several blocks interconnected by a rope or cable, which goes around the blocks in a circle. The chain hoist allows you to lift the load with less effort than the weight of the load.

The simplest chain hoist allows you to get a three to four times gain in strength, you should not forget that friction losses are inevitable in this system. Even in best models blocks they reach 10%. And the more you win in strength, the more the distance that the technique can move the load decreases.

Voldemort:

- It took me a week to make all the components and mechanisms. I spent two more days on assembling and fine-tuning the mechanism. The slewing drive and the boom lifting drive are a six-fold manual chain hoist. The lifting drive is also a manual double chain hoist.

Voldemort notes that it would be much more convenient to control the mechanism with electric drives - to lift the load from the remote control on a long cord, as is done in industrial models. But in this case, the complexity of manufacturing all the mechanisms increases significantly, which will lead to an increase in the cost of the structure and an increase in the time to manufacture the crane.

The manufacturing details of the device are interesting.

Voldemort:

- As a turntable, I took two faceplates that I found at work. In principle, I assembled the mechanism from what was at hand. Instead of an axle, I welded a 30 mm bolt. I did not take a bolt made of high-strength steel, because such welds are worse, they do not stretch and do not bend, but immediately burst if their tensile strength is exceeded.

All components of the device are lubricated with lithol.

To reduce the weight of the counterweight, the legs are 2 meters long. At self-manufacturing and the calculation of the nodes of such a device, one point should be taken into account. The fact is that with a radius of the rotary faceplate of 200 mm and a distance of 2 meters to a counterweight weighing 100 kg, a tensile load of 1 ton acts on the central bolt. And this is without taking into account the weight of the boom and the load being lifted!

It is also important to check the device for stability.

Voldemort:

- To begin with, let's imagine that our crane is a single beam that rests on one support, and this support should be the smallest distance from the axis of rotation. Three forces act on the beam: the weight of the load, the weight of the counterweight, and the mass of the mechanism. In order not to take into account the mass of the boom, I underestimated the weight of the crane by 50 kg. The calculation is approximate and simple, but better with it than without it at all.

Boom lift drum Voldemort made from a tube with a diameter of 100 mm.

Voldemort:

– There is a nuance here - the drum cannot be placed close to the blocks. It needs to be slightly shifted along the axis towards the first block so that the second layer of the cable is wound evenly.

The forum member made blocks from three washers: two large and one small. All blocks are without bearings. It is important to ensure that the blocks are well wrapped around the rope. That is, either the rope must be flexible, or the pulleys must be large diameter. Otherwise, when the boom is raised without load, the cables may fly out of the blocks.

Voldemort:

- I have a rope with a diameter of 12 mm, but it is very thick - there was simply no other. If I lengthen the boom, I will put a more flexible cable with a diameter of 5 mm, because. its working load is 150 kg, and tearing - 850 kg.

When designing block systems, it is important to understand how the chain hoist works and is calculated. Let's take a mini-pioneer as an example.

Voldemort:

- The principle of operation of a chain hoist is similar to the operation of a gearbox - you gain in strength, but lose in the length of the rope and, consequently, the speed of lifting the load.

In the gearbox main characteristic- this is the gear ratio, and in the chain hoist - the multiplicity, i.e. the ratio of all branches of the cable to those escaping from the drum. If we have 6 pieces of rope, then the chain hoist is six-fold.

This means that the pulling load on the drum will be 6 times less than the weight of the load, and the rope itself, if it is designed for 100 kg, then folded 6 times, will lift 600 kg.

Do-it-yourself mini-cranes

The design turned out to be so successful that many of our users decided to repeat it and even give the crane mobility by putting it on the Gazelle.

Forum member with a nickname plumage offers with the help of a similar mechanism of greater carrying capacity and equipped with electric drives, to put concrete pillars. And in order to be able to transport such an individual crane on the roads common use, make the structure collapsible and partially and completely mount it in the body already at the place of the intended work. This will make it possible to recoup all costs associated with the manufacture of the device in a short time.

On FORUMHOUSE you can learn everything about independent, as well as get acquainted with the mini-pioneer. The portal discusses everything you need to know to make a faucet From a concrete mixer to a pipe bender. Members of the forum topics about making useful household items that will help you build.

Our video will tell you what tools you need to equip a carpentry workshop. See how to make your own A in this tool, which will simplify the work on your site near the country house.

To make some parts of the toy, you will need templates that you will find at the end of this article. Make copies of these templates and use spray adhesive to attach them to the blanks, cut and sand along the contour lines, and then drill holes in specified places. Remove the paper templates by moistening them with mineral spirits and finish sanding the details. sandpaper № 220.

Start with a massive truck crane chassis

1. Saw out a 25x160x575 mm blank from a walnut board for the lower landing gear (A). Saw off a 19 mm wide strip from each edge of the workpiece, mark for proper orientation later, and set aside. Cut out the chassis top B, deck C, outriggers and K uprights (Figures 1 and 3, BOM). Temporarily leave these details aside.

2. Install a 6 mm thick slotted blade in the saw and set its overhang to 16 mm. In several passes, cut out grooves 38 mm wide across the lower landing gear A (Fig. 2). Then raise the disk to a height of 19 mm and make a couple more grooves 6 mm wide inside each wide groove (photo A).

3. Prepare a strip of 3x6x305 mm for the stops F. Cut the stops to the specified length (photo B) and glue them into the narrow grooves of the bottom part of the chassis A (photo C).

4. Make a counterbore 25x13 mm with an 8 mm hole on the bottom landing gear A from below, and then five axial holes with a diameter of 9 mm on each edge (Fig. 2). Please note: the centers of the axial holes are not located in the middle of the thickness of the lower part.

5. Take the previously sawn off strips. From the front end of each of them, saw off a block LONG 64 mm. Glue these blocks back to bottom part A, lining up with the front torn. When the glue dries, make cuts on the front end imitating a lattice (Fig. 2). Then cut out the cutouts on the front corners, as shown in photo D.

6. Mark and sand down the 3 mm bevel on the bottom of chassis A (fig. 2). Then, with a 10 mm drill, make holes in front and behind that imitate headlights and marker lights (Fig. 1 and 2), equally located at each end.

7. Take the retractable supports D cut earlier. Drill holes in the indicated places and make a cut in the center with a band saw (Fig. 3). Glue pieces of a 6 mm dowel 10 mm long into the blind holes, which should protrude no more than 3 mm above the surface.

8. Insert the outriggers into the slots in the bottom of the chassis A so that the dowels fit into the narrow slots. Lay on top, without gluing, the upper part of the chassis B and fix the assembly with clamps. Make sure the outriggers move easily and smoothly. If necessary, sand them further.

Note. The supports should not be inserted tightly so as not to get stuck when the humidity changes. Once you've finished fitting, glue both landing gears together (photo E). Once the glue is dry, finish sanding the chassis with #220 sandpaper.

9. Take the sawn-out E-pillars and cut 3mm chamfers around the top ends (fig. 3). Drill a 10mm hole in the center and glue in a 57mm piece of maple dowel. Set the racks aside to dry.

Moving on to the cockpit and engine compartment

1. Glue the G-cabin block and saw to the dimensions shown in the Materials List. Glue a paper copy of the cabin template to one edge and cut out the part along the contour. Drill holes on both sides where indicated. Note. There is no need to make a through hole.

Make chamfers on all the edges of the cab, except for the bottom ones.

2. Glue the cabin G to the bottom of the chassis A, aligning it in the middle of the width (fig. 4). Then take deck C and glue it to the top of chassis B (photo F). When the glue is dry, turn the A-D/F/G assembly over and through the hole in the bottom of the chassis, drill an 8mm through hole in the top fly and deck (fig. 1).

3 Cut out the workpiece for the engine compartment H. File and grind the bevel (Fig. 4a), cut the chamfers and make cuts imitating the lattice. Finish sanding the part and glue it to deck C close to cab G.

4. For steps I, take a maple blank measuring 16x54x305 mm. Saw out tongues in it with a section of 6 × 5 mm with 6 mm gaps (Fig. 4b). Saw off two parts with a length of 25 mm from the workpiece. Temporarily attach the wheels to the chassis with wooden axles. Glue the steps to both parts of the chassis A, B close to the flooring C, aligning in the middle between the two rear pairs of wheels.

5. For the manufacture of the boom support J, take a workpiece measuring 13x102x65 mm (Fig. 4c). Cut a groove 52 mm wide with a 6 mm indent from one of the ends. Now do longitudinal cut to separate the boom support of the specified dimensions from the workpiece. Glue the part to the engine compartment H (fig. 4).

Make a turntable

1. After sawing platform K (Fig. 4d), file and grind the rounding along the radius at the rear end; drill holes in the indicated places, insert M8 * 75 bolts with a washer into them and fix with epoxy glue.

2. Having attached copies of the corresponding templates to the blanks, saw out the counterweight L, the top plate M and the crane cab N in shape.

3. Glue cabin N to the front corner of platform K (fig. 4). Then glue the counterweight L to the platform (photo G). Once the adhesive has set, glue the top plate M to the counterweight, centering on the edges and flush with the counterweight cutout.

Make an arrow cylinder

1. From a 10x19x305 mm maple blank, saw off eight O-rings and shape them according to the template. Drill a 5mm hole in each lug and set these parts aside.

2. To make the P cylinder, take a 16x19x203mm maple blank. Brief advice! Have several blanks of the same size on hand to check the settings of the router table and saw machine. Install in milling table 6 mm semi-circular cutter so that it protrudes 3 mm above the table surface. Adjust the rip fence to align the cutter in the middle of the narrow edge of the workpiece, and cut the flute on opposite edges (photo H). Saw the workpiece lengthwise into two halves and glue again so that the grooves facing each other form a cylindrical channel (photo I).

3 When the glue is dry, mill rounds on all four edges of the cylinder blank (photo J). Saw off the ends of the workpiece to give the I* cylinder a final length of 152mm.

4 In the same way as you did the eyelets O, make two parts of the hinge Q for the ends of the cylinder in accordance with the template. Drill a 5mm hole in the indicated location, and also drill a 6mm hole in the center of the end face of each piece. Prepare pieces of a 6 mm dowel 13 and 152 mm long and glue them into the holes at the ends of the parts (Fig. 5).

5. Saw out the base of the R boom to the specified dimensions and finish sanding. Prepare two lengths of MS threaded stud, 41 mm LONG, place each cylinder hinge Q between two lugs O and fasten with a threaded stud by adding a pair of cap nuts (fig. 5). Glue the short dowel O/Q assembly to the base of the arrow.

6. In accordance with the template, cut out the sidewalls S in shape and drill holes in the indicated places. Glue the sides to the edges of the base R and check for squareness (fig. 7).

7. When the glue is dry, glue the assembled base O/Q/R/S to the turntable K, positioning the counterweight L in the cutout.

Crane needs an arrow

1. Cut out the side T, V, X and upper/lower U, W, Y planks of the boom sections. Drill 25 and 19 mm holes in the side rails of the lower and middle sections and chamfer their edges (Fig. 6), and drill 10 mm holes in the side rails of the upper section. Make a counterbore 10x3 mm on inside only one side bar for the bottom section and one for the middle section (fig. 6). Then drill a hole with a diameter of 5 mm in the center of the counterbores. Glue an M5 nut into each counterbore with epoxy glue. Brief advice! Using the tip of a toothpick or thin nail, carefully apply the epoxy around the perimeter of the zebok and make sure it doesn't get into the threads of the nut and the center hole.

2. Cut out the end cap Z, leaving both ends square for now, and the same spacer. Assemble the lower section of the boom (photos K, L). Cut spacers to assemble the middle and top sections, but do not glue them. Drill a 6mm hole in the lower T/U/Z section (fig. 6).

3. Once thoroughly dry, test the boom assembly by inserting the X/Y section into the V/W and the V/W into the T/U/Z. Each of them should slide out easily without getting stuck. If required, further sand or file the surfaces and then finish sanding the boom sections.

4. Take the hinge of the cylinder with the mine dowel and glue it to the lower section of the arrow T / U / Z (photo M). band saw file the rounding at the bottom end of the bottom section and the top end of the top X/Y section (fig. 6). Using a saw, make a 6 mm deep cut in the middle of the upper end of the upper section for the cord (Fig. 7). Glue the four remaining eyelets O in place, aligning them to the middle of the width of each boom section.

5. Insert the closed lower end of the lower section O/T/U/Z between the sides of the base S and slide the long dowel into the channel of the cylinder P. Fix the lower section with an M6 * 75 bolt and a self-locking nut (Fig. 7).

6. From a 16 mm wooden dowel, saw off three pieces 10 mm long. Drill a 6 mm hole 5 mm deep in one of them, glue the dowel 86 mm long and set aside for the subsequent assembly of the gate lifting mechanism. From the two remaining segments, make handwheels by drilling a 5 mm hole 6 mm deep in the center of each and gluing a 16 mm long section of the M5 threaded stud with epoxy glue (Fig. 7a). Once the adhesive has hardened, thread these studs into the nuts attached to the lower and middle sections of the boom. 11After final assembly, these handwheels can be used to lock the middle and upper boom sections O/V/W, O/X/Y in position.

Assemble the lifting mechanism

1. Cut out the AA crank according to the template and sand it. Drill blind holes on opposite sides of the part. Glue a dowel 35 mm long into one of the holes (Fig. 7).

2. To assemble the lifting mechanism, take the gate handwheel made in step 6 previous section, and insert into the hole in the side panel S (fig. 7). Place the 10mm spring, the 30x22mm wood spool and the second spring before threading the dowel through the hole on the opposite side. Glue the AA crank to the end of the dowel.

Brief advice! If the coil turns around the dowel, secure it with a small screw or stud.

3. Use spray adhesive to attach a copy of the block template to a 13 mm thick walnut blank, cut along the contour and drill holes in the center of each end, as indicated on the template. Screw a screw with a ring into the upper hole (Fig. 7). Taking a finishing nail, grind off a sharp tip with an emery stone, bend the nail in the form of a hook. Glue it with epoxy glue to the bottom hole of the BB block.

4. Remove all fasteners except those glued with epoxy, separate the boom sections, sand any areas that need it, and apply a finish coat to all wooden details including wheels. (We applied semi-gloss nitro varnish from an aerosol can three times.)

Note. Tape the ends of the wooden axles with masking tape to keep the surfaces clean for gluing.

After each application, extend and retract the dowel, which acts as a piston in the cylinder, and the sliding supports D several times so that the parts do not stick.

5. Reassemble the faucet, adding a drop of blue sealant to each cap nut to secure threaded connections. Fix the dowels of the racks E in the holes of the retractable supports D with threaded stud pieces with cap nuts (Fig. 3). After adding a plastic washer between turntable K and deck C, secure the turntable assembly with a self-locking nut and washer (fig. 4). Tighten the nut so that the platform does not rock but can rotate freely.

6. Tie the end of the 10' cord to the spool and thread the free end through all of the lugs O and cut through the top end of the 0/X/Y upper section of the boom.

Tie the cord to the upper ring of the BB block and wind it around the spool. Drive a screw with a ring into the lower cut of the grate on the lower part of the chassis A and catch the hook on it when the crane is not lifting loads. Place a wheel and washer on each axle, then apply a dab of glue and insert the axles into the holes on the bottom of the chassis.

7. When the glue is dry, put on a hard hat, secure the outrigger legs and extend the boom. Ahead of a difficult job with heavy loads.

The Pioneer crane is an indispensable machine during loading and unloading, installation, construction and repair work. Depending on the size and volume of loading materials, it can be used and installed on the roofs of houses, in pits, as well as on the floors of buildings that are under construction.

This “wonder machine” consists of: a control panel (the control system is automated), an arrow, an electric winch and two frames - a support and a swivel. The Pioneer crane is a machine that is quite easy to operate and does not require any special physical effort. Even a person who is not experienced in the construction business will quite cope with the control of the crane.

Construction scheme

There is no need to register the Pioneer crane with the supervisory authorities. If there is a need to transport the crane to another place, there will be no problems with this either, since this machine is very convenient to transport.

Operating conditions

Crane Pioneer does not require compliance with strict rules of use. It can work equally well on a hot summer day (air temperature +40 degrees Celsius) and in a frosty cold (up to -40 degrees Celsius).

But, it is worth paying attention to the slope of the site, where the crane will be located in the future. It should not exceed 3 degrees.

Quite calmly, this machine can operate at a wind speed of 14 m / s. BUT: it is worth stopping the operation of the crane when the wind speed is over 33 m/s.

Your own master

Many owners of cottages or private houses make cranes themselves. This is very convenient, since each mechanism (whether it be a simple motor or a full-fledged hydraulic drive) will be tuned and adjusted to the person who made it. In addition, such a mechanism helps not only to carry heavy monolithic blocks, but also to deliver light loads, such as, to the top of the building.

Alas, it is unlikely that it will be possible to apply hydraulics to your creation. But it will turn out to replace it with an equally worthy home-made lifting machine that is not too heavy to use.

For many, the quite adequate question “Where can I get the parts?” Will probably arise, the answer will be very short and unambiguous - in a landfill. If you push your innate squeamishness into the background, and take a walk through many noteworthy landfills native land, then you can find a lot of useful things at the construction site.

So, in order to create a Pioneer crane with your own hands, the first thing to do is to find an I-beam and a rectangular pipe. Immediately, the condition is stipulated that the I-beam must freely enter the pipe. It is placed on sliding guides, and thus, a telescopic assembly is obtained.

During use, in order to reduce the level of friction, the sliding guides must be lubricated!

In order for the crane to finally be able to function, it is necessary to equip it with certain cables of the smallest diameter. They will already have to be spent in the profile hardware store(although you might also be lucky enough to find them in a landfill). You can use the channel as a material for welding the support and swivel frames. It is the channel that allows a good fixation of the crane on the surface. Usually, the roof of the object that is being built is this surface.

In order to work with the machine without excesses, and also to protect yourself, it is necessary to weld a platform for a rectangular ballast.

One will be enough foundation block, to lift a load weighing half a ton. To start the lifting process, you can purchase an electric motor in a special store, and then connect it to a winch from the UAZ.

Connection of electromechanisms

To start the lifting mechanism electrically, you will have to use the services of an electrician. The connection procedure itself is not too complicated, but still, for your own safety, you should trust a person who has experience with electricity.

After that, the Pioneer do-it-yourself crane is ready for operation.

Specifications

To better understand what the aforementioned representative is capable of, lifting machines, it is advisable to get acquainted with its more detailed description - Pioneer crane technical specifications.

So, the first point in general characteristics crane is, of course, its lifting capacity. It can fluctuate in the range of 0.5 tons - 1 ton. The advantage of the Pioneer crane is that it is able to lift a load that is several times heavier than itself. The height of the crane is stable 4 meters. The angle that the platform can cover when turning is 360 degrees.

The reference contour (connecting the contour of the vertical axes of the lifting machine, formed by horizontal projections of straight lines) is 2x2 meters. The speed of lifting the load is a floating value, it depends on the mass of the load (0.5 tons - from 0.2 to 50 m / s; 1 ton - 0.74 m / s). The diameter of the rope also depends on the size of the load: 6.9 mm - 0.5 tons, 12 mm - 1 ton. The weight of the Pioneer crane, depending on the model, can be 1 - 1.5 tons.

A crane during construction or repair is an indispensable thing, especially if you have to work with heavy building materials and the number of assistants is limited. It can serve as an indispensable tool when lifting property, furniture to the upper floors of the house and save you from dragging when moving. The construction of lifts can be done by hand from various improvised materials.

Crane for building a house and lifting beams and logs

Before starting the construction of the lift, it is necessary to sketch out the drawings in order to calculate the amount of materials. A do-it-yourself construction crane should be easy to move and disassemble for transportation. It should not only perform the functions of a lift, but also be maximally:

light;
durable;
sustainable;
collapsible.

The crane frame is welded from a pipe to facilitate it. It can move on three or four wheels at the discretion of the designer. There must be a place for a counterweight on the rear part so that the crane does not lose balance and fall when lifting the load.

After the manufacture of the platform on wheels, a beam is installed diagonally to the ground level and a stand under it in the form of a support welded from pipes. If desired, the height of the boom is made retractable and with the possibility of raising or lowering it for ease of operation.

A winch (manual or electric) is installed at the bottom of the boom on the body, so that the cable can be easily removed from the upper roller of the boom and it serves to pull heavy logs and timber to the crane for ease of lifting.

A hook is installed at the end of the cable. In addition, a special device is made for grabbing logs and timber in the form of the letter "P". A rod is installed at the top in the center of this device to engage it with a hook. A clamp in the form of a screw is made on the side in the center, which will hold the building material.

When lifting a log or beam to the desired height, the crane on wheels easily rolls back in the right direction, and the material falls into place for further installation and fastening. The structure of the lift must be on a flat, solid surface for easy movement.

Such lifting mechanisms help to perform work efficiently and quickly with minimal physical activity that kids can do too.

Horizontal boom lift

A crane with a horizontal boom is made as follows. A frame is welded from a pipe or a corner crosswise on wheels, on which in the rear part it is necessary to make a place for a counterweight to avoid loss of balance of the crane during operation and its fall. It has casters for easy movement. How more area bed, the more stable the crane.

Stops are installed on its edges near the wheels to prevent movement during operation.

After the frame is made, a mast is vertically installed in its center, on which the boom is fixed. The mount must be strong, it must rotate around its axis.

An additional stop with a handle is attached horizontally from the vertical mast for its rotation. It is equipped with a place for mounting a manual or electric winch. Another mast is additionally mounted vertically to the stop, which is attached from above to the boom to ensure greater stability and enhance its fixation.

At the top, an boom is attached to both masts, equipped at both ends with rollers for a cable so that the central vertical support rests against the center of the boom, and the second, additional, exactly in the center between the first mast and the rear edge of the boom.

A winch is placed on a horizontal stop fixed on the second vertical mast.

Its cable first passes through the roller on the back of the boom, then through the front roller with a hook at the end. The assembly of the entire crane structure is made with extreme strength and the possibility of its disassembly for ease of transportation. A gripper is installed, which raises the blocks.

Construction from improvised means for work in the garage

Such homemade lift especially needed by those who repair cars, for withremoval or installation of heavy components and assemblies of the machine.

The crane is assembled from a frame, which is welded from a pipe, an iron profile, and corners. It is easier to install them crosswise, as this arrangement ensures greater stability of the crane. Wheels are attached to the edges for ease of movement around the garage.