Treatment of wood for the street with impregnations and paint coatings. Impregnation for wood from moisture and decay How to cover wood from decay on the street

Natural wood is, of course, the leader among materials for building a house. The absolute environmental friendliness of wood, high aesthetics and simply unlimited possibilities of use - all this reveals the secret of the popularity of the material for many centuries. However, wood is not without its drawbacks. First of all, this is a weak level of resistance to the effects of negative external factors. That is why the question of how to treat wood and boards from decay is extremely important for all connoisseurs of natural and natural.

How to treat wood and boards from decay

The processes of biological destruction of wood, or rotting, is a rather unpleasant process, which, unfortunately, is inherent in this material. The processes of decay begin to occur and accelerate:

At high air humidity;
At high humidity of the feedstock;
When there is no good ventilation;
With temperature fluctuations;
When condensation accumulates;
During the freezing of the material;
Frequent contact with damp soil.

Best to apply preventive measures even during the harvesting and storage of wood.

During storage, the moisture content of wood decreases, so it is advisable to use a tree that has lain felled. Previously, this technique was used: they cut down a tree in the winter in order to start construction in the summer. Currently, there is no need to withstand such a long period. Technological measures are used to protect wood.

Wood decay treatment involves protecting the wood from moisture penetrating through the pores. This can be done with a good waterproofing layer, from the moisture contained in the atmosphere - by staining special paint and a good roof. High-quality thermal insulation and a vapor barrier coating, pre-equipped ventilation will protect against condensates.

In addition, it is necessary to place the wooden structure of the building much higher than the ground level. In addition, the ends of the log house walls should be sheathed with boards and treated with a special tool. But first things first.

In order for a wooden product long years pleased you with aesthetic characteristics and robust design experts advise preventive processing of the material at the manufacturing stage.

Means for treating wood from decay

Modern methods of combating decay processes involve processing with special means:

The ends can be processed with Senezh TOR;
The walls can be covered with a special Senezh NEO product, which will protect it from moisture penetration;
It is also possible to apply a finishing layer of finishing like Senezh Akvadecor.

Attention. Recently, negative reviews about Senezh products have become more frequent. When choosing funds, consult several points of sale.

All these methods in their complex combination will help protect the wood from decay. It is up to you to decide which impregnation against wood decay is better to choose, you need to be based on the type of wood and its operating conditions.

End processing Senezh TOR video:

Fire retardant wood treatment

Wood, unfortunately, is a very combustible material. You can protect it from fire by using special means. They are best combined with the treatment of wood with an antiseptic. The best conditions for wood impregnation are:

Low moisture content of wood (up to 25%);
The temperature of the impregnation itself is about 60-85 ° C;
Application of impregnation on specially made tattoos.

Previously, buildings in the private sector were not treated for fire. Currently, such preventive treatment is practiced. In such cases, it is possible to cover the surface with special refractory materials, often a simple impregnation with saline solutions is used. In the second case, when fire hits the surface, the salt begins to melt and creates a film that can stop the fire.

Fire fighting equipment is divided into:

Passive ones create a film on the surface of the tree. A good protection against fire is impregnation with compounds formed on the basis of ammonium sulfates and phosphates, boric acid and storms. The advantages of borax and boric acid are that they have an additional antiseptic effect. When fire hits the surface, the salt begins to melt, creating a film that can stop the fire.
Active agents not only block the access of oxygen. BUT and contribute to a decrease in temperature, emit non-combustible gases, prevent the release of resins and combustible gases.

You can prepare a wood impregnation agent at home according to the recipe given in the video.

Means for protecting wood from fires, or fire retardants, can be:

Senezh OGNEBIO;
Neomid 450;
Pirilax;
Valty Pokhyusti.

Processing is carried out by means of the above means in several layers.

Antiseptic
Conservation

Both methods involve the use of special chemical substances. Antiseptic means applying a special substance - antiseptic manually, with a brush or roller. And conservation - only in the factory by soaking raw materials in special baths, as well as autoclaving.

There are several types of antiseptics. Their use is mandatory in cases where mold has already begun to appear. They are:

Water soluble. Completely eco-friendly, do not have an unpleasant odor and dry quickly. Ideal for wall, floor, ceiling, window and door surfaces. It is not recommended to use them for a tree that has constant contact with water.
Water repellent. They have a rather sharp odor, but a deeper level of penetration. Excellent for use in baths, saunas, basements and cellars.
Flying basis. They cover the wood with a thick film that takes a long time to dry. Perfectly are suitable both for interior, and for front processing.
Oil based. They are water insoluble and also form a strong film. They can only be used to impregnate dry wood. Not recommended for residential areas.
on a combined basis. Great for any kind of wood. They have not only antiseptic, but also fire and bioprotective properties.

Specific funds

The following remedies are excellent for protecting wood from mold:

"Wood Doctor" Suitable for all types of wood, regardless of the level of damage. Non-toxic and completely safe.
"Bioks" - refers to the class of protective texture coatings. It protects the wood from mold, and is also able to emphasize the texture of the wood. It can be both colored and transparent.
"Biosept" - is considered one of the best means. It can be used both inside and outside. It is based on new generation biocides. The tool is absolutely environmentally friendly, reliable and safe.
"Aquatex" is great for planed and sawn surfaces (for example, doors, poitus, platbands and much more).
"Pinotex" is also great for almost any type of wood, does not fade and provides excellent protection.
"Elkon" there are several varieties that differ in their characteristics. It is applied outside and in rooms. It is used for drawing on freshly processed material.
Carticide compound. You can get acquainted with its characteristics by watching the video.

Recommendations for choosing means for treating wood from decay

Before choosing an impregnation in the store, depending on the operating conditions of the wood, pay attention to the following characteristics:

Does the impregnation cause corrosion of the metal. This quality must be taken into account if further connection with metal fasteners is expected.

Duration of impregnation on wood.

How deeply the impregnation penetrates into the wood. Is it suitable for rooms with high humidity.

How environmentally friendly is the impregnation? Is it possible to use it inside residential premises or places where animals live.

Is the impregnation designed to counteract the appearance of fungus.

Is it possible to use this impregnation in rooms with temperature changes.

Does not emit an unpleasant odor from the treated surface during temperature changes or high humidity.

These questions can be asked to a representative of the trading organization. All information is available in the instructions attached to the materials.

Coating rules

In order to apply protective covering no special knowledge or skills are required. You can do this work on your own. Before starting work, pay attention to the following characteristics:

Stock up on protective equipment such as a mask, gloves and goggles.
In the process, you will need the following tools: a brush, a metal brush, detergents, sandpaper and scraper.
Before starting work, inspect the wood itself. Cracks on its surface indicate the need for processing.
The optimal time for work is considered to be a temperature of 20-25 0 C. It is allowed to start work at 10 0 C, and not higher than 40 0 C. It is strictly forbidden to work out a frozen tree.

If the wood has previously been treated or coated, all traces on the surface must be cleaned and removed.

Perform preparatory work and processing in the following sequence:

Clean the wood of dirt and old coatings with a solvent or scraper.
Perform surface treatment sandpaper and remove dirt with detergent solution.
Create conditions for the wood to dry completely.
When applied protective equipment Special attention give end surfaces, junctions, cuts.
In the case of applying a second layer of work, perform at least three hours later.

It will take at least 48 hours for the coating to dry completely. The time may vary depending on the temperature, humidity in the room.

Processing a log house with an antiseptic video

Folk methods of wood protection

There are also folk methods for protecting wood without chemistry from fires. This is the preparation of a solution based on clay, salt and water. The proportion of its preparation is as follows:

Clay - 75 parts;
Salt - 5 parts;
Water - 20 parts.

All this mixture is diluted to a thick mass and applied in several layers. Also among folk remedies, a coating prepared on the basis of superphosphates is popular. The mixture is made according to the ratio of water and superphosphate 25 to 75. It is applied in a similar way in two or three layers.

Important: such a coating tends to harden after 5-6 hours, so the prepared composition must be used during this period, otherwise it will become unusable.

The problem of how to treat wood and boards from decay has been of interest to people for a long time. And over the years, many folk methods have accumulated to protect wood from biodegradation. So, what to do with the tree so that it does not rot:

Conclusion

Protective equipment is selected individually. Processing of terraces, arbors, rafters and rough floors is carried out using hard-to-remove solutions. If there is very high humidity in the premises, then products with an ultra-reliable level of protection are used. You should also consider:

room temperature;
Operating conditions;
Validity period of funds;
Exterior finish.

You need to choose the means and methods based on your own needs and preferences.

We also recommend you:

Ecology of consumption. Homestead: Wood is the main building material used for the construction of houses, baths, gazebos and other objects. However, a stylish appearance and high natural characteristics this material can be seriously spoiled by sudden onset of decay, constant exposure to ultraviolet or moisture.

Wood is the main building material used for the construction of houses, baths, gazebos and other objects.

However, the stylish appearance and high natural characteristics of this material can be seriously spoiled by the sudden onset of decay, constant exposure to ultraviolet radiation or moisture.

How to deal with decay

The reasons

The most common causes of rot are:

contact with damp earth;
freezing;
high air humidity;
frequent temperature changes.

Means of protection - antiseptics

You can stop the process of wood decay with the help of antiseptics.

They are capable of:

prevent the occurrence of cracks in the wooden surface;
avoid fading;
protect wood from decay and negative impact moisture.

Depending on the material that is the main one in the antiseptic, they are divided into:

oily antiseptics. They are often used for lining, which is in difficult climatic conditions, as well as for wood that needs enhanced protection;
water-soluble antiseptics. They are less concentrated, so they are used for the prevention and temporary protection of a tree in contact with water;
antiseptics based on organic solvents. This view is universal. It can be applied to internal and external works;
combined antiseptics. This type has no restrictions on use and is suitable for indoor and outdoor use, but is still more often used for outdoor wood processing.

Any of the antiseptics forms on the surface protective film, which maximally preserves the structure of the tree in its original form and prevents the appearance of fungus and decay processes.

How to apply

It is most reasonable to use antiseptics at the stage of the appearance of a small mold.

Antiseptics are applied different ways. If the material is just being prepared for construction, then a protective layer can be applied by simply immersing it in a solution.

If the material was laid without pre-treatment, then it is worth using the spraying method.

The disadvantage of this method is that it has a relatively small penetration depth. More reliable is the same method of wood processing, but carried out in 2-3 approaches with a time interval of 15 minutes.

Attention! It is very important to pay attention to the instructions when applying the product, since some of the antiseptic preparations are suitable exclusively for internal processing, while others are only suitable for external processing due to their high toxicity.

How to protect wood from fire

Fire bioprotective impregnation for wood

It has long been known that wood is easily flammable, but modern facilities protections can get rid of this problem. by the most effective option can be called fire-retardant impregnations.

Such impregnations are often used to treat building facades. Depending on the degree of penetration, they are divided into:

deep;
superficial.

Also, impregnations are distinguished by the principle of action. They are:

active. Influence the duration of combustion processes, reducing them as much as possible;
passive. They protect the wood structure from heat penetration.

Advice! If you want to make wood fire-retardant, but at the same time want to preserve its natural beauty, choose transparent protective materials.

Flame retardants - flame retardants

You can also use the so-called flame retardants for protection. They are special substances that slow down the combustion process and protect the tree from ignition and the spread of fire over a large area.

Flame retardants can be impregnated with wood or applied to wood special agent with content in it chemical composition flame retardant. Fire retardants completely penetrate the structure of the tree and protect it from ignition or the spread of flame.

Application rules

Flame retardants can be applied by deep and superficial methods. In the second option, protection is applied only to the upper layers of the tree, this is a cheaper and easier way. Processing is done with brushes or rollers, depending on the convenience and size of the area.

But deep fire treatment involves the use of special equipment so that flame retardants penetrate into the deeper layers of wood.

Wood treatment from moisture

Water is another enemy of wood. Water-repellent impregnations are capable of protecting wood from swelling and dampness. Depending on the main material that prevails in the composition, they can be:

water based;
oil based;
solvent based;
wax based.

The most popular impregnations are water-based. They are odorless, dry and absorb quickly. They are versatile and can be used both indoors and outdoors.

Solvent-based impregnations are used less often due to the specific smell and often only for external work. They are applied with a roller or brush.

Oil-based products are used for baths, saunas or for outdoor work, as they work well in conditions of frequent temperature changes.

The most original and effective in this list are wax-based impregnations. They completely clog the pores in the wood, giving a special natural shine to the wood. It is often used to work with furniture.

Any impregnation is applied in approximately the same way: in 2-3 doses with an interval of 40 minutes. In this case, you can use a brush or spray, as well as immerse or soak wood parts in a solution.

Mold and fungus protection

So that with frequent changes in temperature or under the influence of precipitation, colored mold or fungus does not form in the cracks of the tree, it will be important to treat the surface with antiseptics.

Modern options can be applied even with sub-zero temperatures, both on the internal and external surfaces of the tree.

They are safe for humans and do not exude bad smell and do not distort natural look wood.

By the way, folk and accessible means can be called linseed oil- It protects well from the occurrence of fungus. You can also try blue vitriol- it protects not only from the fungus, but also from small pests that can penetrate into the wood through small cracks.

Sun protection

Under direct sunlight, a tree can burn out, lose its saturated color and become desiccated and weakened. However, unaffected pigments can protect the wood surface at minimal cost.

Typically, these pigments are added to oils or paints for wood, they can be found by a special mark on the package that this product will protect against ultraviolet radiation. published

You can learn more about various impregnations for wood by watching the video:

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Increase wood resistance to harmful effects moisture, pests and rot can be by or applied. Creating an integral protective layer of the product leaves the tree vulnerable in places of mechanical damage. Application special impregnations and treatment with antiseptic agents increase the natural resistance of the wood surface, protecting the material by the depth of its penetration.

Developed a large number of available antiseptics that are used for and have a surface and deep action. Most often, inorganic, organic and combined antiseptics are distinguished:

Inorganic mixtures are the least poisonous and are widely distributed in private households. These include sodium fluoride and fluorosilicon salts, alkali metal chromates and dichromates, copper sulfate, a mixture of boric acid and its sodium derivative - borax. The list of inorganic antiseptics is wide and depends on specific tasks, local features and weather conditions.
organic antiseptics are resins that are predominantly coke-chemical in nature, heavy insecticides (protection from insects) and fungicides (stop the growth of the fungus). Such mixtures are used for processing industrial structures and are not widely used in agriculture due to significant toxicity. Less harmful impregnations containing components of gasoline and turpentine can be used for external protection of residential buildings.
Combined antiseptics- are mixtures of solvents and target components (resins, insecticides, fungicides). The resulting mixtures are often no less dangerous than their individual organic components, so they are rarely used in everyday life. More often in production with. The development of chemical and environmental industries has led to the emergence of new varieties of commercial drugs that are less harmful to humans and the environment.

On the picture - different kinds antiseptics

Organic Inorganic Combined

Rating of wood preservatives - finding the right product

When choosing a product for home use, the following should be taken into account:

Is it necessary to give the tree increased moisture resistance;
the surfaces to be treated are inside the house or outside;
whether it is planned to process the above-ground or part of the product placed in the ground.

A wide range of modern antiseptics is available for sale to protect wood from decay and insect pests. Most of the mixtures have water base and sold dry. Preparations must be dissolved or suspended in water before use.

Moisture protection combination formulations are designed for outdoor use and are formulated with a non-aqueous base. A separate place is occupied by coatings for structures buried in the ground (fences, fences, poles). They often contain heavy resins that create an extremely strong protective film and penetrate deep into the wood surface.

For specific treatments, such as the destruction of bark beetle larvae or targeted cleaning from rot, ready-made factory solutions are usually used. They are mixtures of water-soluble powders of insecticides and fungicides of narrowly targeted action.

Such drugs include Liquidator, Nortex, Senezh Insa, etc. The complex of substances contained in their composition affects most of the processes that destroy wood. It is necessary to decide how to process a tree from decay, taking into account the future exploited characteristics of a building or structure.

How to protect wooden house from a bar from fungus and decay:

Features of antiseptic wood

When applying antiseptic coatings or impregnations, it is necessary to adhere to specific rules:

processing of wood from rotting should be carried out after drying in air and removing paint and varnish residues. Traces of oil and other organic contaminants are removed with white spirit or a light gasoline thinner;
most inorganic impregnations can be easily washed off with water after application. Try not to carry out outdoor work in rainy weather;
some rotting impregnations contain table salt as an antiseptic component. She really has it useful property however, the treated surfaces will be highly absorbent. Do not use sodium chloride preparations in regions with high humidity air;
when using non-aqueous impregnations intended for internal processing, test them for small area surfaces. This will help to avoid persistent unpleasant odor after extensive use.

Moisture protection - compositions and features of impregnations

There is a significant range of substances that have a water-repellent effect. The need to stop the penetration of water into the tree is due to the increased rate of its destruction in a humid environment.

The principle of action of mixtures for protection against water is based on the processing wooden product or semi-finished lumber hydrophobic composition. According to the mechanism of protection, such drugs are divided into penetrating and film-forming.

Penetrating mixtures are oil-based formulations. They often have a complex effect, improve the appearance of the wood and eliminate the contact of the raw surface with air. Oil coatings have maximum effect only when applied to chemically untreated wood, free from external protective materials.
Film-forming compounds- contain organic silicates dissolved in white spirit or kerosene. After the solvent dries, the silicone remains on the surface and fills the small pores in which moisture previously accumulated.

You can find out if a tree has been treated with a moisture-proof coating by applying a few drops of water to its surface. Without protective impregnation, they will be absorbed almost immediately, while on the treated surface, the drop will remain in the “collected” state (it will not spread).

How else can you process wood from rot, moisture and bark beetle

Expensive commercial formulations can sometimes be replaced with available materials.

Among such "folk" means include:

blue vitriol- used in the form of an aqueous solution (5-10%), the consumption rate of which is from 40 to 80 g per 1 m2 of surface. The vitriol solution penetrates the tree by a maximum of 1-2 cm and is easily washed out. Can be used for periodic processing of fences and wooden parts exterior finish. The reagent is toxic if swallowed;
slaked lime- used to create a dense layer of calcium hydroxide on the protected wood. The solution is prepared from quicklime and water (1:3 by volume) in a metal bucket (a plastic container may melt). The resulting mixture is mixed after cooling and applied with a brush or spray gun on a wooden surface. Pests and fungal layers do not appear in a whitewashed wall. minus this method is the soiling of the whitewash after application and the need for repeated treatments as it is naturally washed out;
linseed oil- allows you to protect wood from rot, moisture and pests. The coating is made by applying oil to the cleaned wood and keeping the wood until visually "drying". The oil penetrates deep into the material and is not washed out of it over time. The impregnated wood does not lose its ability to "breathe" and is much more resistant to the effects of microorganisms.

Processing wood from decay without chemicals and paint:

Do-it-yourself antiseptic

To increase the effectiveness of the impregnating composition, you can use a complex mixture with an improved antiseptic effect.

It consists of:

800 g flour, which gives the solution the consistency of a paste;
1.5 kg of iron or copper sulfate;
400 g of kitchen salt (can be excluded at high humidity);
1.6 kg of dried slaked lime.

10 liters of water are added to the initial dry mixture and mixed until a sticky substance appears, like wallpaper glue. The resulting viscous mass is applied with a brush and fills the existing pores and voids. The addition of flour after drying gives the layer viscosity, and lime prevents air from entering and provides mechanical strength.

When treating the surface with ready-made mixtures to protect against rot, insects and moisture, you should follow the instructions and use the preparations exclusively for their intended purpose. When working with antiseptic solutions, protective equipment for the face, hands and eyes are mandatory precautions. has an extended service life and increases the reliability of the entire structure.

At a young age, I had a chance to prepare an essay about an old salt factory, in which salt was extracted from liquid salt brine during evaporation. The oldest enterprise in Europe today operates with great interruptions, but table salt from its production can be found on the shelves. It was noteworthy that in the museum of the enterprise there were the remains of pipes through which salted brine moved between the workshops of the plant. They were made of wood. And their condition was satisfactory despite the hundreds of years they had lain in the ground. Salt preserved hollow pipes made from straight trunks. In folk remedies and protecting wood from decay and bugs salt is also used today. Here are a few recipes that still live not because of efficiency, but in spite of chemicals protection.

Controversial and proven methods of wood protection

A freshly harvested round log (in the bark, but without knots) is placed on a vertical overpass with the tops down. A hermetically sealed polyethylene bag with a solution of copper sulfate is tied to the butt of the trunk, or a container is installed from which the solution is in contact with the end of the log on an impregnated wet rag. After some time, the brine, under the influence of gravity and due to the natural movement of juices in the trunk, will fill the space between the fibers of the log and the protrusion at the bottom end. After the solution has penetrated the entire length of the trunk, the workpieces can be laid on natural drying under a canopy, eliminating the ingress of moisture and sun. Such seepage is used very rarely. An alternative is a conventional soaking bath. (Source - from the experience of Forumhouse.ru members of the forum)
Next folk method upon detailed study, it looks fantastic and impossible, but for the sake of principle I will quote him: “One of the most effective, environmentally friendly (but alas not recommended) means of processing lag, lower rims or strapping are formulations based natural wax with the addition of oil and propolis. wooden houses already 50-70 years old, and the logs, and the floors in general, are in excellent condition. Now many are advised to process the logs and strapping as well. (Source - from the experience of Forumhouse.ru members of the forum). What can be said about this method. It is more like fantasies and theoretical assumptions, because it is impossible to dissolve paraffin or wax in oil. Most likely, the author had in mind the separate use of such products as oil for impregnation and waxing. I already wrote about this method in an article about
A very common way to protect fences in the West - the Finnish composition for coloring is made from such available components: any flour - rye or wheat - 800 g, inkstone- 1.5 kg, kitchen salt - 400 g, dry slaked lime - 1.6 kg, water - 10 liters.
All this mixture available materials prepared as jelly or paste for gluing wallpaper. Gradually add to flour while stirring. cold water bringing the mixture to the consistency of sour cream. Half of the water (5l) is heated and topped up while hot. The finished paste is filtered and heated while stirring. When cooking, salt and vitriol are gradually added. Lastly stir the dry slaked lime or lime pigment. Apply Lushe solution warm in 2 coats after the first treatment has dried. According to the testimony of old masters, such wood processing is enough for up to 15 years.
Conifers are the most resistant to decay, and therefore processing with birch tar or spruce resin is the oldest and most proven method. These resin compositions have a high degree of protection against fungi and bugs, but are very easily soiled, sticky, and have a strong odor. Wood cannot be processed on top of them - painted, sanded, etc. For open flames, this treatment is flammable. Therefore, the underground parts of wooden structures are treated with tar and resin resin and are not used for interior work.
Means of protection - used motor oil (working out). Today it is the most common method of protecting wooden structures in rural areas for non-residential structures. Working off has one of the most important factor Benefits are free. It is better to apply it in a warm state several times, allowing it to be absorbed. Ends and crevices are impregnated especially carefully with working off. For greater reliability, mining was poured into the bottom of the pits, and after digging in the pillar, it was also poured around it. 90% of mining composition - mineral oil- A good water-repellent antiseptic. In addition, there is a lot of soot in working out - a protective pigment from destructive ultraviolet radiation sun. Some of the acid salts kill any fungus in the wood. Disadvantages - very easily soiled and has a mourning color.
Iron (copper) vitriol releases toxic substances when heated. When it enters the human body, it causes disorders of the gastrointestinal tract, irritates skin and mucous membrane.
Today, the method of processing with hot bitumen or tar continues to be used. Heated and stirred in diesel fuel - they are considered the best means for processing underground structures made of wood. AT wooden construction such coatings are used to protect the first crown or salary of log cabins. Today, bituminous impregnations and mastics are produced.
Oils and drying oils - it is difficult to call folk remedies. They form the basis of the production of paints and varnishes. Therefore, they have good properties: do not crack and peel off. Lacquers last longer long time. Wood is best protected with hot drying oils or oils to increase the depth of seepage. The turnover of such wood protection products when hot, it is much larger than when cold.
In a dry tree, water spreads most quickly from the end through the capillaries. Therefore, in one of the ways to protect the ends of parts, “riveting” is used with blows of rubber or wooden hammer end surface. Capillaries in such a place are destroyed and prevent easy evaporation of moisture. This keeps the ends stronger and prevents them from cracking. Additional protection can be added to the surface wooden parts by burning with a blowtorch. Thin layer charred wood has bactericidal properties, in addition, capillaries are additionally destroyed.

Reasons for the destruction of wood

The structure of wood resembles a bundle of thin tubes - capillaries along the trunk. These capillary fibers consist of the basis of wood - fiber (cellulose). Fiber over time tends to break down into poly- and disaccharides, alcohols, aldehydes and organic acids under the influence of enzymes. Coniferous (and to a lesser extent deciduous) species, in addition to fiber, contain lignin, an organic substance similar to phenol. And phenolic resins are good bactericidal substances. In order for wood to be resistant to harmful bacteria, lignin is needed in its composition! The removal of lignin from wood is the cause of rotting and decay of wood.

The enzymes of saprophytic fungi (tinder fungus, honey agaric and oyster mushrooms), as well as a small number of putrefactive fungi and bacteria, destroy lignin especially well. Insects such as ants, woodworms and some worms "cohabit" with harmful fungi and bacteria. They grind wood fibers mechanically and contribute to the active fermentation of cellulose and the destruction of lignin. Such processes proceed especially well at high humidity.

You need to know the enemy in person in order to organize the protection of wood with folk remedies

The most terrible enemy of the tree is the white house mushroom. Sometimes it resembles ordinary mold, which makes it impossible to correctly establish the cause of wood damage. Under certain conditions, it can "gobble up" an oak floor in just one month! Therefore, in the old days, houses affected by such a fungus were burned. to protect other wooden structures.

Antiseptics and impregnations based on modern achievements of biochemists are not popular means of protection and treatment of wood– but the most effective and affordable on the market building materials.

Debating building materials and wood products is easier to prevent than to restore damaged products. Of all the proposed means, it is important to choose what can be used to treat wood from decay with maximum effect.

Rotting wood is easier to prevent than to repair later.

How to prevent wood decay

The most popular methods are the application of protective and antiseptic compounds. After choosing a method and means in order to process wood from decay, you will need the following tools:

Application antiseptic composition produced by a spray gun.

Roller or brush.
A container with a solution for immersing small wooden parts.
Spray.
Hacksaw or scraper.

The main pest of wood is mold, with which the process of decomposition of building materials begins.

Therefore, you need to be aware of where this evil comes from, how it spreads and familiarize yourself with the measures for its extermination.

A fertile environment for the occurrence of decay processes:

free air access;
humidity of the surrounding space from 80 to 100%;
plus temperature 0-50°С;
humidity of building materials made of wood from 15% to 20%.

It is possible to prevent the decomposition of wood even in the process of manufacturing and storing materials for the production of structural elements of construction. Since a freshly cut tree has a moisture content of 60% to 80%, it simply needs to be dried naturally, that is, let it lie down for at least a year.

Finished wooden structures are also exposed to negative natural impacts, these are:

Drying wood naturally can prevent rotting.

insufficient ventilation;
temperature difference;
excess moisture;
freezing;
condensate.

All this must be prevented by the following measures:

waterproof roofing;
applying a protective layer of paint or varnish;
providing the necessary waterproofing;
placing the heat-insulating layer closer to the cold (outer), and the vapor barrier layer near the warm (inner) surface.

Wooden walls can be sheathed with boards and this will protect them from rotting. Here, more attention should be paid to the end cuts, since it is they that form the weakest points.

All wooden elements of building structures need an annual spring inspection. This will help to identify signs of spoilage in the early stages, such as deterioration appearance, deformation and bad smell.

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Two ways to get rid of fungus

The antiseptic is applied with a brush.

Decay greatly reduces the density and hardness of wood, which affects the ability of wooden elements to cope with their load-bearing function. If, for example, putrefactive areas appeared on the crown crowns, and at the same time the window openings were warped or the walls moved, then this means that the crowns need to be changed or the foci of decay removed.

It all depends on how large the degree of damage and areas of spread of putrefactive bacteria. You can localize, that is, remove finishing material and remove the damaged wood with a scraper, brush or hacksaw, and then treat the affected area with an antiseptic.

In everyday life, two methods of disinfection are used:

The surface method is the application of a special substance with a sprayer.
Diffusion technique - coating with antiseptic paste. It includes glue, antiseptic and an additional substance.

Bituminous paste:

Remedies for fungus can be in the form of liquids or pastes.

green oil;
peat powder;
oil product;
sodium fluoride.

silica paste:

sodium silicate;
tar;
fluorosilicates.

Extract pastes based on sodium fluoride find their application. The disinfecting process occurs when the moisture content of the wood increases by more than 40%. At this moment, the substance actively penetrates into the product, and the diffusion process stops when the humidity decreases.

To prevent infection of unspoiled wooden building materials, potassium bichromate (5%) based on sulfuric acid (5%) is used. It is applied both to wood and to the surrounding soil up to 0.5 m deep. Potassium dichromate aqueous is an effective agent for treating beams.

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Processing wood from decay

When using stronger disinfecting methods, it must be remembered that the higher their biocidal properties, the greater the harmful effect on human health.

The antiseptic "Wood Doctor" will help if the infection has already occurred.

But modern science does not stand still, and in chemical laboratories universal antiseptic substances with a relatively harmless effect were obtained. Such products are prepared on the basis of high-molecular compounds, and they are able to maintain the strength and density of wood for a long time, preventing rotting and mold. This ability is based on a polymer base that prevents washing out of protective preparations for many decades. Destruction harmful organisms in this case, it occurs due to the content of tin, chromium and an element such as zinc.

An excellent drug to prevent the biological destruction of wood is "Bicidol", it is harmless to health. In the event that the color of the tree does not matter, you can use "Bicidol-100", since after its application the wood acquires a greenish tint. You can treat the tree from decay and preserve the natural color of the product with "Bicidol-200". Diluted in drying oil, it performs both protective and antiseptic action.

Pinotex will help protect the wood from rotting.

The Finnish-made drug "Pinotex" has a domestic counterpart called "Vuprtek". With it, you can protect the tree from decay and give it many shades. But it is only suitable for pure material without any trace of mold.

If the fungal infection has already occurred, you can treat the wood with DL-3 (antiseptic "Wood Doctor"). It exists in several versions:

DL-1 - for fresh and clean wood, protects against rot, mold, bugs;
DL-2 - destroys harmful organisms and protects wood from decay;
DL-3 - the strongest antiseptic, stops the decay of wood and expels insects.

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Why you should not treat wood with disinfectants

There are certain building indicators, developed by German specialists, which indicate the conditions for refusing to use biocidal agents.

These conditions include:

wide roof overhang;
adequate ventilation in the basement.

In addition, all heartwood types are divided into groups:

Most wear resistant.
Wear resistant.
Medium wear resistant.
Weakly resistant.
Unstable.

AT Russian construction the following breeds are used:

1st class - mountain ash, teak (can be used without processing for pillars intended for concreting and burying);
2nd class - cedar, oak (bypassing processing, goes to the construction of structures subject to natural influences - stairs, balconies, etc.);
3rd class - larch, pine (used in areas with moisture, without contact with the ground - windows, doors, stairs);
4th class - beech, fir, spruce (without chemical treatment, suitable for the construction of internal dry structures).

But it is not always possible to do without chemistry when working with wood, since treating a tree means protecting it from decay.