When to plant remontant raspberry seedlings. Repair raspberries: how to plant and care for outdoors

Remontant raspberries are becoming interesting to many gardeners: with relatively easy care you can get a harvest of delicious berries until frost. Planting it differs little from planting ordinary varieties, but the choice of site and soil preparation must be approached more responsibly. There are many planting methods, and each gardener chooses it based on the climate, terrain features and personal preferences.

Stages of planting remontant raspberries

In order for remontant raspberries to grow for many years and constantly please with abundant harvests, they must be planted on time and correctly. Of great importance are:

• right choice landing time;
• the location of the raspberry on the garden plot;
• qualified soil preparation for planting;
• selection and preparation of seedlings;
• the right choice of landing technology (on a flat surface, ridge, high ridge, etc.);
• accurate execution of the actual planting of seedlings;
• caring for seedlings after planting.

It must be understood that raspberries in one place will live and bear fruit for many years, so there is no need to rush in choosing a place, preparing it and actually planting remontant raspberries. Caring for remontant varieties is significantly different from caring for ordinary raspberries, but the planting itself is carried out in much the same way as planting most berry bushes.

Planting dates for remontant raspberries

Repair raspberries, like ordinary raspberries, are planted both in spring and autumn: respectively, from the very beginning spring work in the garden until the end of April and from the very end of summer to mid-October. Optimal timing landings are determined mainly by the climate of the region. Spring planting is typical for those areas where serious frosts are possible already in September, and real winter comes early.

In addition, they often try to plant raspberries in spring where the weather is too dry in autumn, and in spring the soil moisture reserves are significant: these are, for example, Medium and Lower Volga, as well as some regions of the Urals. In other regions, the autumn version is preferable.

Spring planting is carried out at the onset of stable relative heat, that is, the cessation of significant frosts and a confident transition average daily temperatures to the region of positive values. It is better if daytime temperatures at this time are in the range of + 10 ... + 15 ° C. Planting work should be completed before raspberry buds open. But the preparation of the site, of course, is carried out in advance, in the fall.

If the leaves are already starting to unfold, the timing of spring planting has long been missed.

Autumn planting must be completed about 20 days before the first serious frost, so in middle lane landing work lasts from the beginning of September to 5-10 October. In the south, raspberry planting is often possible until mid-November. Late autumn planting is fraught with freezing of the root system due to incomplete rooting of plants and their subsequent death.

Thus, both spring and autumn planting have their pros and cons; in both cases, both too early start of work and being late are dangerous. It is physically easier to plant raspberries in the fall, but in arid and frosty regions it is more reliable to do this in the spring.

Young seedlings with a closed root system, which have been sold in abundance in recent years, can be planted almost at any time, but this is undesirable during the peak of the summer heat. It is better to finish planting even seedlings with a good earthen clod no later than mid-June, and start autumn planting no earlier than mid-August.

Choosing a place for raspberries

Remontant raspberries can bear fruit all summer (from late June until frost). At the same time, many gardeners prefer to grow it using a different technology so that it gives one, but big harvest late summer and autumn. Most remontant varieties do not require pollinators, so you do not have to worry about planting several varieties at the same time.

As a rule, the shoots of remontant raspberries are much higher than usual, which leaves an imprint on the choice of location and organization of the plantation: the installation of trellises or other supports for tying is in most cases necessary. Long-term fruiting requires more fertile soil, the organization of the possibility of constant watering, as well as better illumination of the site than in the case of summer varieties.

As for the location of groundwater, for raspberries this is not the most important factor: the roots do not penetrate deeper than 40 cm, so the occurrence of water at a meter depth will not interfere with them, only clearly swampy areas are unsuitable.

In addition to the fact that the place for the raspberry should be well lit and warmed by the sun's rays, it is necessary to create conditions for the absence of drafts. Since planting trees is not suitable for this (they create shade), they try to plant raspberries along low fences or near rows of shrubs such as honeysuckle or gooseberries.

Currant is considered an undesirable neighbor for raspberries due to the presence of common pests.

In a particularly hot climate, it is better to slightly sacrifice light and plant raspberries in partial shade: drying out of the soil for remontant varieties is more detrimental than a reduced amount of light. But if the bushes are in the shade for more than half of the daytime, the yield will drop sharply, and the berries will become small and sour.

Remontant raspberry loves the sun, but it can be protected from the winds with a low fence

Regarding the neighbors, raspberries are generally not picky. Rather, on the contrary, it is worth remembering that the raspberry grows rapidly, as a result of which it can flood the vegetable beds. Many gardeners fight this phenomenon by digging deep sheets of slate or iron to prevent the spread of raspberry roots.

It is advisable to plant various odorous plants nearby that repel pests: garlic, marigolds, oregano, etc.

The ideal reaction of soil extract is close to neutral. Slightly acidic soils are suitable for raspberries, but if horsetail or plantain settled on the site, then the soil is too acidic. FROM acidic soils it is not difficult to fight: when digging, chalk, slaked lime or dolomite flour(up to a liter jar per 1 m 2).

From the point of view of soil composition, light loams or sandy loams are optimal. You can even sandy soils, but they need to make high doses of fertilizers and water frequently. If there is time, a year before planting raspberries, it is worth sowing green manure (mustard, oats, lupins, etc.) in the selected area. You can do this even at the beginning of the current summer, if the site is free. Before digging the soil, at the end of summer, grasses that have not yet blossomed are mowed and buried in the ground: they serve as good fertilizer, heal the soil and improve its structure.

Soil preparation for planting remontant raspberries

In addition to correcting acidity, a lot has to be done with the soil before planting raspberries. Especially if it is very clayey or damp: in such cases, for every square meter, when digging, they bring in up to a bucket river sand. If there is a threat of waterlogging, the amount of drainage is increased: in addition to mixing sand with the soil, a layer of pebbles or broken bricks is laid at the bottom of the planting pits or trenches.

In chernozem regions, it is customary to add husks from sunflower seeds or buckwheat husk: They significantly improve breathability.

Any fertilizer is suitable for raspberries, but it is undesirable to use chlorine-containing fertilizers. When digging the soil, the main nutrients are applied in the form of organic fertilizers, they take a lot: 3-4 buckets of humus per 1 m 2. In regions where there are no problems with peat, it is also suitable for raspberries. When planting, wood ash is taken about a liter jar per 1 m 2, with a lack natural fertilizers increase the amount of minerals. But even a glass of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added to the humus.

Growing remontant raspberries is impossible without a large amount of organic matter: every year, before wintering, humus is thrown around the bushes with a layer of up to 10-15 cm, and in spring it is embedded in the soil. As for the planting itself, a deep digging of the site with fertilizers is carried out 2-3 weeks before the autumn planting and at any autumn time if the planting is planned for spring.

If you get good humus problematic, perhaps not worth messing with planting remontant raspberries

Although the seedling itself is deepened during planting and not very much ( root collar lowered only a few centimeters below ground level), and before planting they dig holes or trenches, the soil must first be dug deep. This is done at least on the bayonet of a shovel in order to move the fertilizers to a sufficient depth and distribute them over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe selected area. The fact is that raspberries will grow roots very quickly so that they will fill the entire plantation with virtually no gaps, and everywhere they need fertile soil.

Selection and preparation of seedlings

There are many ways to propagate raspberries, and ready-made seedlings are not always available. You can plant raspberries even with pieces of roots - root cuttings. But it is more reliable, especially for an inexperienced gardener, to still purchase seedlings. They must be healthy and strong. This means that the stem at the base should be 5–8 mm in diameter, but most importantly, a well-developed root system is required.

In addition to the main roots, raspberries should have a powerful system of fibrous roots: thin, strong, which are easily bent, but not broken. They do not have to be long, 18-20 cm is enough, but there should be a lot of small suction roots. A small amount of dried roots is not fatal, but it is better to cut them off with a sharp pruner.

At good seedling root system - like a thick beard

Before planting, seedlings are immersed entirely in water for 1-2 days. If there is no large capacity, at least the roots are soaked. Immediately before planting in the soil, it is advisable to dip the roots in clay talker. It is prepared from equal parts of mullein and clay and enough water to get a creamy consistency.

Methods for planting remontant raspberries

The technology of further actions depends on many factors, but mainly on the parameters of the site and the wishes of the owner. There are many ways to plant remontant raspberries, the most famous of them are as follows:

• landing in separate pits;
• landing in furrows;
• trench (tape) landing;
• planting in containers;
• bush method.

All these methods differ in the mutual arrangement of seedlings in relation to each other, and all of them can be implemented both on a horizontal surface, which is on the same level with the ground of the entire garden, and on hills: ridges or ridges. As a rule, elevation is required in cases where there are close ground water or the climate of the area is characterized by excessive precipitation (although raspberries require a lot of moisture, but the roots should not stand in the water), or in cold regions where high beds make warm.

Planting raspberries on the ridges

Landing on ridges is a laborious method that has to be resorted to in case of heavy soils or swampy terrain. For such a landing, do the following.

Planting raspberries on warm beds

The method is similar to the previous one, but even more laborious. Necessary in cold climates and if desired, get very early harvests. The bed is considered "warm" because the soil is warmed by the decay of organic matter, introduced in large quantities to the very bottom of the bed, directly under the roots of the shrub. The length of the beds can be any, the width is traditionally maintained at about 80 cm. The beds are prepared long before planting.

1. They dig trenches with a width equal to the width of the future beds, and a depth of about a meter. They make slate fences, given that the bed will rise above the ground by at least 60–80 cm. Pour several buckets of sawdust to the bottom for each meter of trench, spill them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Sawdust (layer 10–15 cm) is covered with the same height layer of excavated earth, previously mixed with humus or compost in a ratio of 1: 1.
3. Further, various organic debris, fallen leaves of trees, small twigs are added in the same layer, pouring mineral fertilizers(100 g / m each of potassium sulfate and superphosphate) and watering with mullein infusion. Sprinkle with a small layer of soil.
4. Layers of organic matter and earth alternate in the right amount to the chosen height, but the top layer is peat, mixed with seedings and humus. Water the bed well, spending at least 5 buckets of water per meter. When organic decay develops properly, it will be very warm inside the beds.
5. Plantings begin no earlier than 2-3 weeks after the arrangement of the beds. Raspberry planting technology - ordinary: make holes required size, slightly deepen the seedlings, fall asleep soil mixture, watered and mulched.

As the bed matures, it will gradually settle, so periodically it is necessary to pour earth on it, or better, its mixture with humus or peat.

A warm bed is a whole engineering structure

Landing in separate holes

A method that does not involve digging large trenches is used in the case of light fertile soils, as well as when seedlings are planted at considerable distances from each other. As a rule, they withstand at least 1.5 m between rows of raspberries and 70–90 cm between seedlings in a row.

Dig holes measuring 40 cm in all dimensions. Do not bring into the pit a large number of local fertilizer (no more than half a bucket of compost and a handful of wood ash). Raspberries are planted with minimal depth, well watered and mulched. In the future, plants are formed in rows, distributing the emerging shoots towards the neighboring ones.

Ordinary method, or landing in furrows

In fact, the method is a modification of the previous one and is used in the same cases. It's just that some gardeners find it easier to dig a common furrow about 40 cm wide and deep than individual pits. A little compost and ash is poured into the bottom of the furrow and raspberries are planted in the same way as with patch planting, placing the seedlings at the same distances, in one row.

A common furrow replaces a series of closely spaced individual holes

Tape fit

Tape planting, or planting in a wide trench, is rarely used on personal plots, because it is laborious (just like in the case of making warm beds, you need to dig a wide deep trench). Traditionally, this approach is used for industrial cultivation berries. It is especially effective on sandy soils. The method is good because a large amount of fertilizer is placed in the trench, which means that once prepared, the trench serves for many years.

Trenches about half a meter deep are dug a month before planting, directing them from north to south. Length - as needed, but the width can be different. More often, with this method, raspberries are planted with a ribbon in two rows, which means that the width must be maintained about a meter. Clean rotted manure or good humus is placed at the very bottom with a layer of about 15 cm, sprinkling it with wood ash, superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Then a layer of excavated soil mixed with humus is poured, and clean soil is placed on the very top.

A large amount of various fertilizers are placed in layers in the trench, which will last for a long time.

Raspberries are planted almost without deepening, digging holes of the required size and spreading the roots well, after which they are watered and mulched. The distance between the seedlings in a row is about 70 cm, between the rows in the tape - 50–60 cm. If necessary, arranging several tapes between the trenches is left about one and a half meters.

Landing in a tank

It has become fashionable to use unnecessary barrels, buckets, bags and other containers for planting various plants in summer cottages. After all, these containers can be placed anywhere, even on asphalt, which means saving space. Raspberries are sometimes planted in the same way, if only a few bushes are required. In the tank, the bottom is removed or heavily perforated, it is dug shallowly into the ground and filled with fertile soil, after which seedlings are planted, one at a time in a bucket or barrel.

If the planting capacity is pretty, the raspberry bush will decorate the site

Bush method

In contrast to the tape, or ordinary, planting, when the fruit-bearing raspberry looks like one row or a wall in which the stems are located in only 1–2 rows, with bush cultivation raspberry looks like separately located bushes, including 10-12 shoots close to each other. This means that large distances are left between seedlings when planting: the usual scheme is (1.0–1.2) x (1.5–2.0) m. Bushes can also be arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Cooking in selected places landing pits sizes from 50 cm in depth, length and width, fill them well with fertilizers and plant one seedling in each in the usual way. After 2-3 years, the bushes are already becoming adults, consist of many shoots and bear fruit well.

When the raspberries grow, the bushes will almost merge with each other.

Arrangement of the trellis

The vast majority of remontant raspberry varieties require a garter, since its shoots are long, not very thick, and fall to the ground when loaded with a crop. With bush cultivation, it is possible, when planting in the center of the planting pit, to drive in a strong high stake, and then tie the shoots to it. In most cases, it is more convenient to equip a common trellis along a number of landings.

For a trellis, strong poles are dug into the ground or metal pipes. The distance between them is 3–4 m. The height of the pillar above the ground is at least one and a half meters. A strong wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is pulled between the posts. The number of rows of wire depends on the raspberry variety, but not less than three. The lower wire is located at a height of 30–40 cm from the ground, the next one is 1 m, the upper one is 1.5 m. If the variety is high-yielding, it is advisable to pull the wire more often.

When trellis growing, it is more convenient not to create bushes, but to arrange shoots in a row

Each shoot, as it grows, is tied to each wire, trying to arrange them so that there is at least 10 cm between the stems. The garter is carried out with any convenient twine in the “eight” way.

Nuances of spring and autumn planting

There are two very different methods of growing remontant raspberries:

• with the traditional method, the harvest is obtained throughout the summer: first on last year's shoots, and by autumn - on annual ones;
• with a method that is used more and more often, in the fall all the shoots are mowed, leaving the plants with only small stumps to winter. All the forces of the raspberry are used to obtain one, plentiful, crop on annual shoots.

However, regardless of the intended cultivation method, spring and autumn plantings are somewhat different. More precisely, the pruning of planted bushes differs. So, during spring planting, seedlings are treated in almost the same way as in the case of ordinary raspberry varieties. They leave last year's shoots with 2–3 buds above the ground, that is, up to 20 cm high. As the roots grow and the seedling takes root, leaves will appear from these buds, and then annual shoots will appear from the ground, and closer to autumn (and for many varieties already in July) it will be possible to taste the berries.

Video: planting remontant raspberries in spring

Otherwise, spring planting does not differ much from autumn planting. Unless nitrogen fertilizers (in particular, humus) can be applied more in spring than in autumn, and more carefully monitor soil moisture: snow moisture tends to end quickly. In autumn, less watering is usually required.

In autumn, immediately after planting, the entire aerial part is cut off with a sharp pruner, leaving stumps 1–2 cm high. This is necessary to prevent the possible awakening of the kidneys during the autumn warming and, as a result, the death of the shoots as a result of subsequent frosts. At autumn planting they mulch the soil with a thicker layer, and closer to winter they must take measures to snow retention on the raspberries: poorly acclimatized young bushes especially need warmth, and snow is the most reliable insulation.

Landing features in different regions

The principles of planting remontant raspberries differ little depending on the region, but the timing differs, as well as the height of the beds: in a cold climate, the construction of high warm beds is preferable. In the middle lane, and even more so in the south, this is not necessary, unless groundwater comes close.

The fruiting time of the same variety of remontant raspberries in the south and in the north of our country can differ by 3–4 weeks, which should be taken into account when choosing the planting time. But in any case, in the north and in Siberia, this should be done in the spring, and in other regions - at the request of the gardener.

Those who wish to plant remontant raspberries in the middle lane in the spring can start preparing the planting pits themselves in early spring if not able to do it in the fall. Here, and in particular, in the Moscow region, the actual landing can be carried out from about March 25 to April 20, although, of course, it does not happen year after year.

The Moscow region is distinguished by a large number of wetlands, as well as unpredictable weather in winter time when frosts alternate with thaws. Therefore, despite the relatively mild average annual climate, spring planting is preferred here so as not to take risks. Drainage must be placed in the planting pits. Autumn planting, in problem-free areas, is possible throughout September. All of the above applies to most of Belarus.

In Siberia and the Urals, the main problem is to choose the warmest, windless area. At the same time, one has to sacrifice illumination by planting raspberries in the shade of houses, near strong, reliable walls. Before May 1-10, they try not to plant raspberries: there is a high risk of cold snaps. If there is a need for autumn planting, they try to finish it before September 10.

Video: planting raspberries in Siberia

In the southern regions of the Russian Federation, as in most of Ukraine, both spring and autumn planting are equally popular. In the spring, planting work is possible already in March, they end with the beginning of bud break, which can happen as early as April. There is no need to rush in autumn, the most suitable month is October. Most southern regions you don’t have to worry about freezing raspberries, but you need to carefully monitor the soil moisture after planting so as not to dry out the roots of the seedlings that have not yet taken root.

It is difficult to plant remontant raspberries, rather physically: due to the high yield and power of the bushes, it requires a lot of food, so you have to dig large pits or trenches. Otherwise, there are no problems with planting seedlings, but you must not make a mistake with the timing, make the right choice between spring and autumn.

It is difficult to imagine a summer cottage without raspberries. It is tasty and healthy, they make it the best medicine from a cold for the winter - raspberry jam. Many people think about how to prolong the fruiting of this crop. It is the planting of remontant raspberries, performed in the fall (seedlings and cuttings), that will allow you to enjoy the berries throughout the summer.

Choosing a remontant raspberry variety

Remontant varieties differ from ordinary raspberries in their ability to bear fruit until the first frost and easy tolerance of the winter period and frost. Such raspberries are also more resistant to viral diseases, and all pests are removed at the end of the season along with the shoots.

Variety of remontant raspberries "Inaccessible"

Planting always begins with the selection of varieties, each of which is good in its own way and bred for certain conditions.

Unattainable. A new variety of remontant raspberries, with large fruits(6-12 g). The surface of the berries is velvety, and the drupes are tightly linked together. The variety holds the record for the rate of fruit ripening.

Apricot. The berries have a beautiful amber hue with pinkish patches. It has a slight apricot flavor, hence the name. Fruits until frost. All thorns are located at the bottom of the plant, which makes it easier to care for and harvest. Productivity 2-2.5 kg per bush. Ripens up to 75% of the crop. The disadvantage of the variety is a weak transportable ability. The berries are extremely tender and it is not possible to transport them fresh over long distances.

Variety "Hercules"

Hercules. A variety that has large berries(up to 10 g) and high yield. The fruits are juicy, sweet and have a rich crimson color. After maturation, they can stay on the plant for a long time without rotting. The yield is 3-4 kg per bush. Fruiting begins in early August and ends with the first frost. Ripens up to 80% of fruits. Best of all is suitable for preparation of jam and compotes for the winter.

Atlant. A variety that is most resistant to pests and viral diseases. Bush of medium height, sparse - 3-4 upright shoots. Doesn't need a wallpaper. The fruits have a sweet and sour taste, good for freezing. Is different tall bush (up to 2 m) and a powerful root system resistant to dry periods. With good care, you can get up to 5 kg of fruit from one bush.

Variety "Orange miracle"

Orange miracle. The name comes from the color of the fruit. They have a bright orange tint. Very sweet large berries (8-10 g) of a conical shape. The variety is resistant to pest attacks. Fruits extensively. On one bush there can be over a hundred ripe berries at the same time. The fruits are about the same size. With good care, they reach up to 12 g. The bushes are tall up to 180 cm. The shoots are straight, the fruitful part begins from half of their length. They have 5-7 replacement shoots. Form a sufficient number of root cuttings.

Ruby necklace. Variety of remontant raspberries with fruits of medium size ( maximum weight reaches 8-9 g) in the form of an elongated cylinder, bright red. The taste is sweet and sour, very refreshing. Has good transportability. A plant of medium height (up to 1.5 m tall) has 5-7 spiny replacement shoots. Productivity is 2.5-2.8 kg per bush.

Advice. When planting remontant raspberries, it is best to choose several different varieties. The combination of several mid-early and mid-late species will allow you to collect large yields throughout the season.

Landing site selection and soil preparation

Remontant raspberries differ from ordinary raspberries in their increased requirements for natural light and soil fertility. It is very important to choose a landing site and prepare the soil.

Planting remontant raspberries in autumn is carried out on a well-lit plot of land. It is necessary to plant a plant taking into account the fact that the sun should illuminate it throughout the daylight hours.

Important! With insufficient lighting, plants delay the period of flowering, fruit ripening and reduce the zone of remontance. In special cases, they may not form a crop at all.

It is also important to protect the plant from drafts. That is why planting is carried out along the fences, which provide remontant raspberries with protection from the wind. When choosing a place, one should also take into account in which places the snow melts first and frosts occur later, as a rule, this is the south side of the site, covered from the north by a fence or summer cottages.

Preparing for planting remontant raspberries in the fall

Planting raspberries is not carried out on the soil in which they previously grew:

• tomatoes;
• eggplant;
• potato;
• pepper;
• cucumbers.

The most suitable soil for remontant raspberries is light loam, well loosened and fertilized with a neutral or slightly acidic pH balance of 6.5-7.

Ways to prepare the soil for planting raspberries

It is possible to prepare the soil for planting raspberries both in a long way and in an urgent way. At the first, the land is being prepared for two years:

1. In autumn, before digging, the soil receives 45 g / m 2 of potassium sulfate, 13-15 kg of humus and 65 g of superphosphate in granules.
2. In the spring, the future raspberries are planted with vegetables, carrying out all the necessary feeding.
3. The next season, they are planted with legumes or clover, they give the soil green fertilizer.
4. At the end of the season (August), the greens are crushed and dug up.
5. In autumn (September, early October), remontant raspberries are planted.

Remontant raspberries after planting in the ground

In the second option, a month before planting raspberries, they dig a hole 45 cm deep and add a mixture of 25 g of potassium sulfate, 15 g of superphosphate and 10-12 kg of humus to it. All this is mixed with the top layer of soil from the pit and left for a month.

Before planting is made in the direction of a row of raspberry bushes, a trench is dug 50-60 cm deep to the bottom of which all fertilizers are applied. For 100 cm length:

• potassium sulfate (1 tbsp.);
• superphosphate (1 tbsp.);
• wood ash (1- liter jar) or other mineral fertilizers.

The trench is compacted and planted with seedlings or cuttings. Further, fertilizers for remontant raspberries are applied to the soil layer, to increase its fertility, twice a year in spring and autumn.

The scheme of seating remontant raspberries in the autumn

The culture is quite new, and the definition of the landing pattern is not clearly defined. optimal algorithm. Planting remontant raspberries depends on the variety chosen and the quality of the soil. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of light-loving plants. The thickening of the bush will necessarily lead to a decrease, and in some cases to loss of yield.

Single row planting remontant raspberries

1. Single row (tape) landing. Plants are planted in beds, the distance between which is 150-200 cm, and between seedlings 70-90 cm. So, raspberries will not be thickened, and each bush will receive a sufficient amount sunlight. If a remontant raspberry variety with a small number of replacement shoots (3-4 pieces) is selected, the distance can be reduced.
2. Square-bush method. Placement of plants in a square with a distance between seedlings of 100-150 cm.
3. Curtain method. In the summer cottage, plants planted in this way will feel best. Raspberries are planted in small groups - curtains of 2-3 plants with an interval of 65 cm.
4. triangular pattern. Bushes are planted in a triangle with a side of 40-50 cm.

Square-bush method of planting raspberries

The last two methods are often used by gardeners as an element of decor in their summer cottage. To create groups, choose raspberry varieties with different berry colors. When the fruits ripen, it turns out very interesting game colors on a green background.

Advice. Plant raspberries with seedlings and cuttings in the fall. It is in early October that favorable temperature and water conditions are created. Plants are growing fast root system and getting ready for the winter.

Landing methods, their features and differences

Planting and breeding raspberries are carried out by several methods. Each of them has its pros, cons and differences in planting technology.

How to plant raspberry seedlings

Planting raspberries in autumn seedlings

Planting material should be chosen with a well-developed root system. The aerial part should be cut to 25 cm. Planting is carried out 4 cm deeper than the seedlings grew in the nursery in order to cover the root bud with earth. Seedlings need additional watering, even if they were transferred to the ground in wet weather. This is done to tightly envelop the root system of the plant with soil.

The method of planting raspberries with root offspring

This method is suitable for expanding raspberries at the end of the season. Root offspring (popularly called "nettle") are dug out along with the earth, which was enveloped by the roots and transplanted to permanent place. While such a seedling takes root, almost all the leaves are removed from it so as not to lose moisture.

The method of planting raspberries with root cuttings

Raspberry root system

This is the easiest method for breeding and planting remontant raspberries in the fall. In September-October, raspberry bushes are dug up and roots 3 mm thick are harvested. They are cut, receiving cuttings of 15-20 cm. Furrows are cut in the allotted area, which are planted with cuttings. Seating is done in a chain with a depth of 3-4 cm. Be sure to water and cover with needles so that the ground does not freeze. After the snow melts, the needles are removed, and the raspberry beds are covered with a film. You can plant the plant in a permanent place by next autumn, when it gets stronger and develops the necessary root system.

Caring for a young raspberry

Remontant raspberries need regular watering and fertilizing, especially during the dry summer. It is also mandatory to loosen the soil in the raspberry. Here you need to be careful not to damage the root system of the plant.

Raspberries are fertilized in the second year after planting. Minerals are brought into the ground in June or early July, when there is an intensive growth of shoots. And in August, fertilize the soil with complex top dressing.

Raspberry: young plant

Remontant raspberries are most sensitive to a lack of nitrogen in the soil, so it is important to prevent nitrogen depletion. The plant perceives especially well liquid organic fertilizers (fermented bird droppings diluted 1:20 with water or mullein 1:10). Such fertilizers must be applied at the beginning of summer in the amount of 4-5 liters per 1 m 2 of area.

Important! It is best to fertilize when the weather is warm and during the watering of the plant.

Each gardener must understand that the maximum number of replacement shoots for remontant raspberries should not exceed 6 pcs. Therefore, the remaining shoots are removed with a pruner under the very soil, and the root suckers are used as seedlings. Pruning the shoots will prevent thickening and provide good coverage of the bush.

Raspberry bushes need mineral feeding

Do not use one piece of land for long-term raspberry cultivation, after 4-5 years the soil is very depleted, and the chance to get good harvest with such a raspberry is significantly reduced. After raspberries, it is necessary to give the earth a rest by sowing it with legumes or clover.

When planting seedlings in a permanent place, make sure that the root of the plant is not exposed when watering. If this happens, the culture may not take root and die.

When planting raspberries in the fall, be sure to mulch the soil with a 7-10 cm layer of peat or humus. This will keep the roots from freezing in winter and give them extra time to develop. Raspberry roots grow even at a temperature of 2-3°C.

Provide plants with enough moisture

After transplanting young plants to a permanent place, abundant watering should not be carried out. Better more often, but in smaller volumes. Prolonged stagnation of water can lead to rotting of the suction roots, which will lead to inhibition of plant development and delayed fruiting.

In order to prolong the fruiting period, some gardeners, after the onset of light frosts, cover the raspberry bushes with a film. Thus, it is possible to extend the ripening of the fruit for a period of 2-3 weeks.

Sweet and fragrant raspberries are not only a delicacy, but also an excellent cure for colds. Therefore, gardeners are so fond of planting this crop in their summer cottages. Raspberry remontant is especially valued, capable of yielding twice in one season. Growing remontant raspberries and caring for plants has some features. If you take into account the recommendations of experts, you can enjoy fragrant berries throughout the summer.

Choosing a plot for raspberries

Compared to ordinary raspberries, remontant varieties are more demanding on site illumination and soil fertility, therefore, when planting this crop great importance has a choice of location. Raspberries should be planted in an area that receives full sun throughout the day.

In a shaded area, flowering and fruit ripening occurs much later, and in some cases you can completely be left without a crop.

Raspberries do not like drafts, so most often plantings are located along a fence or outbuildings, which are natural protection from the wind. The south side is best suited for breeding this unpretentious culture. personal plot, protected from the north by buildings or a fence.

It is not recommended to break raspberries in those places where they were previously grown vegetable crops, namely tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, potatoes. If for some reason it is necessary to use just such areas, it is necessary to feed the soil with phosphorus and potassium.

Light loamy soils with a slightly acidic balance are best suited for raspberries.

Soil preparation

Before planting remontant raspberries, you need to properly prepare the soil. This can be done a year before planting or immediately before planting the plants in the ground.

• Method 1

During autumn digging soils are fertilized at the rate of 45 g of potassium, 65 g of superphosphate, 10-13 kg of humus per 1 sq. m. In the spring, mustard, clover or legumes are planted on the site of the future raspberry, which are crushed and buried in the ground in August. In early October, remontant raspberries are planted on this site.

• Method 2

To plant raspberries, they dig a trench 40-45 cm deep, the bottom of which is 10 cm filled with a nutrient mixture of compost or manure. Double superphosphate is evenly scattered over the manure, which is covered with a layer of fertile soil. In addition, wood ash is added to the soil at the rate of one liter jar per meter of trench. Then the soil in the trench is tamped and rooted plants are planted.

Planting raspberries

Remontant raspberries are planted in spring or autumn, although experts believe that planting from September 15 to October 10 is the most effective. Falls off this time of year summer heat, the soil slowly loses moisture, which allows the cuttings to take root and prepare for wintering.

Planting remontant raspberries is carried out in such a way that the roots of the seedling are not very close to the surface of the earth, and the root neck of the plant is located at the same depth as before transplantation.

With the trench method of organizing raspberries, at least 70 cm should be left between seedlings, and 1.5 m between rows. When planting in separate pits, at least 1-2 meters are left between seedlings. For propagation of remontant raspberries, both root cuttings and young shoots can be used.

Caring for remontant raspberry varieties

Like any cultivated plant, remontant raspberries require proper and timely care, which consists in regular watering and loosening the soil, pruning and feeding plants.

• pruning

Remontant raspberries differ in that they can produce crops on both one-year-old and two-year-old shoots. The first time the berries ripen in early July. For the formation of fruits, the plant spends a lot of nutrients. Young spring shoots develop weaker, and autumn harvest much lower than summer, however, the berry obtained in October is doubly valued and will be a pleasant bonus for the gardener for his hard work.

If you plan to harvest one crop, then late autumn cut out all the shoots under the root, leaving no stumps. The cut material is taken out of the household plot or completely burned. This will save the raspberries from pests wintering on the shoots.

In the case when it is decided to get two crops per season, pruning is carried out twice. For the first time after harvesting the summer crop, two-year-old shoots are cut out. They differ from annuals in a lignified trunk, withered and gradually drying up leaves.

The second pruning is done in late autumn, before covering the raspberries for the winter. This time, only the tops of the shoots from which the berries are harvested are cut. In the spring, selective pruning is done, removing frozen and damaged shoots.

• Watering

Raspberries do not like waterlogging of the soil, but at the same time they do not tolerate drought either. With a lack of moisture, the berries will begin to shrink, dry and crumble. The frequency of irrigation depends on weather conditions. In dry summers, plants should be watered regularly and plentifully so that the soil gets wet by 40-50 cm.

It is very important to water raspberries during flowering and fruiting. After picking the berries, it is also recommended to thoroughly water the raspberries.

• Soil loosening

Loosening the soil in the raspberries should be carried out regularly, from 4 to 6 times a year. This will help provide oxygen to the roots, allowing moisture to linger in the soil longer. The first time the plantings are loosened in early spring, before the buds awaken.

When loosening between rows, you can go deep by 10-15 cm, in rows - no more than 8 cm.

The last loosening is carried out in late autumn. To get rid of some pests, at this time the earth between the rows can even be dug up with a layer turnover.

• Mulching

Experienced gardeners very often resort to mulching the soil between plants. This event allows you to limit the appearance of weeds, helps to retain moisture in the ground, protects the roots of plants from hypothermia and overheating.

Any natural material is suitable for mulching: sawdust, hay, straw, peat, humus. Less commonly, raspberries use synthetic mulch or special fiber. After the mulching material rots, it is embedded in the ground, providing the plants with organic fertilizer. Every season the layer of mulch is updated.

• top dressing

Growing remontant raspberries involves regular and timely feeding, as the plant requires a lot of nutrients during growth and fruiting. In early summer, organic fertilizers can be applied to the soil. For this, cow dung mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10, or chicken manure - 1:20, is suitable. For 1 sq. m landings will be enough 4-5 liters of solution. It is necessary to feed remontant raspberries with organic fertilizer 2-3 times per season.

It is better to fertilize in warm weather, combining fertilization with watering.

Raspberries will not do without additional fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Potassium deficiency can be noticed by the appearance small leaves with brown edges, and the lack of phosphorus is evidenced by the weakening and death of the shoots.

When applying potash fertilizers, chlorine should be avoided in the soil. You can enrich the soil with phosphorus using nitroammophoska, scattered in the amount of 50-100 g per 1 sq. m.

You can make up for the lack of nitrogen only in spring period. If you feed the plants with fertilizers containing nitrogen in the fall, the vegetation process can be delayed and interfere with preparation for winter.

• How to ration shoots

All summer it is necessary to control the number of emerging shoots, leaving 1 square. m only 5-6 of the strongest. If you do not remove the excess shoots, the raspberry will grow strongly. Plants will lack nutrients and sunlight, resulting in small berries and poor harvests.

Cut out the green growth with a sharp pruner as close to the surface of the earth as possible.

Young shoots can be used for propagation. To do this, the sprout must be dug out along with a small underground part of the rhizome.

• Garter

Raspberry stalks can reach two meters in length. So that they do not bend under the weight of the berries and do not break, they must be tied up in a timely manner. When planting in trenches, double-sided trellises are used for this. It is very convenient to take care of plants and harvest if you tie annual shoots to one trellis and two-year shoots to another. When planting with bushes, stakes are driven into the ground to maintain the trunks in an upright position.

After planting the seedlings, it is very important to ensure that the soil around the root collar does not erode during watering and the roots are not exposed - this can lead to the death of the plant.

Remontant raspberry roots continue to grow even when low temperatures, therefore, during autumn planting, it is necessary to fill the ground with a thick layer of mulching material. This will protect the roots of the plant from freezing and provide additional time for their survival.

You should not grow raspberries in the same place for more than 5 years, as the soil is very depleted and getting a bountiful harvest becomes almost impossible.

In the middle lane, repeated fruiting occurs in October, when the air temperature drops significantly, and light frosts are possible at night. To prolong the ripening period of the berry, the raspberries are covered with a film.

Care remontant raspberry presents no particular difficulty. Even a novice gardener can cope with such work, and the summer and autumn harvest of large fragrant berries will be a reward for work. The main thing is to follow the advice of experts and purchase planting material in well-established nurseries.

Repair raspberries have their own care characteristics. After all, she gives the harvest all season, which means that she needs more strength. Therefore, even at the stage of planting in the spring, it is important to provide the bushes with everything you need: choose appropriate place, prepare planting trenches, take care of seedlings. To get a guaranteed harvest of sweet, fragrant and large berries, you need to know the planting pattern, observing the distance between the bushes.

place for raspberries
For many, raspberries grow along the fence, they are given a secondary place. But if you want raspberries to please you excellent harvest for a long time, choose the sunniest place, avoiding the lowlands.

Trench for raspberries
We mark trenches for raspberries with a width of 50 cm. Raspberries will sit in them in one line. From my own experience, I was convinced that a two-line landing, when it seems that you are saving the land, is actually difficult for processing raspberries.

We make the distance between the trenches 1.5 - 2 m. For passages, do not reduce the dimensions, otherwise it will be inconvenient to process bushes and pick berries later. We dig a trench 2 bayonets wide and 2 bayonets deep, not forgetting to fold the top layer of soil (fertile) to one side, and the bottom one to the other.

Then work begins to fill the trenches. At the very bottom we throw " solid fuel"- branches left over from pruning the garden. You can grind them on a shredder, if you have one. Wooden filling is needed so much that in a rammed form it is approx. 10 cm. Then we put a soft layer into the trench - hay, weeded weeds, old foliage - and compact it to a layer of 10 cm. We spill Baikal solution from the watering can (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). For 1 sq. m trench will need at least 1 liter of this solution.

Now we take the earth dug out of the trench and mix it with humus, compost, ash, agrovit - you can put a lot of this, you won’t spoil the porridge with oil, and add superphosphate according to the instructions. Let it not scare you that instead of a trench, a mound has turned out - in six months or a year there will be no trace of it. We spill the prepared bed well from the watering can.

With such a trench, you will provide your raspberries with good nutrition for the roots for 20 years.

If you prepare a place for planting in the fall, then it is better to leave the resulting bed until spring. Otherwise, let the prepared trench settle for 2-3 weeks.

Preparing raspberry seedlings for planting
If you bought seedlings with a closed root system, you need to put it right in the container for about a day in a basin of water to give the seedling a good drink, you can add growth stimulator HB-101 to this water (1 drop per 1 liter of water).

We also put seedlings with an open root in the water. I want to warn you that raspberries with open root are capricious. It is enough for her to stay in the sun for 20-30 minutes, the roots dry up so that they no longer depart, the bush may take root, but you won’t wait for a good harvest.

If you dig out from yourself or your neighbors, immediately wrap the seedling in a wet rag, and if you buy on the market, it’s a matter of chance, you don’t know how long the seller kept it without covering it.

How to plant remontant raspberry seedlings
In the prepared trench, at a distance of 70-80 cm, we make holes of such a size that the seedling fits freely. I pour a handful of agrovit and ash into each hole, mix, spill (a bucket of water for 2 holes), let the water soak.

We take out seedlings with a closed root system from the container, straighten the roots well, too long can be cut a little. In a seedling with an open root system, we carefully examine the roots, cut dry or broken roots, if there are long ones, we shorten them so that they do not bend in the hole.

We plant raspberry bushes without deepening the root collar. They poured a little earth - they pulled it up so that there were no voids at the roots. Then we add more soil, press it well with our hands and form a small hole around the bush. Immediately (we don’t wait until we plant all the plants) we spilled half a bucket of water. When they finished planting in the entire trench, be sure to mulch with straw, fallen leaves, sawdust or peat.

Don't be embarrassed by how rarely seedlings sit now - next year there will be a solid line.

If the seedlings were in a container, nothing more needs to be done when planting. If planted with an open root, it is necessary to cut the seedlings to ground level, leaving no stumps. Do not be afraid, raspberries will not only grow back, but will also please you with a harvest in the first year of planting.

Raspberries in the first year of planting
Usually, in the first year, raspberries do not fully show their palatability, and the harvest gives a small one - after all, she needs to spend a lot of effort in order to take root. But already from next year she will make you happy.

Do not forget to water the first couple of weeks after planting. The soil of the bushes should always be moist. As soon as new leaves appear, this is a sign that the bushes have taken root. And now, when the growth has appeared, I lay the entire area in the trench with fresh cow litter, without touching the bushes, I fall asleep on top with 5-8 cm mulch.

What does it give? Firstly, it is much more difficult for weeds to break through, and those that have broken through are very easily pulled out. Secondly, moisture is better retained. And thirdly, there is no need to loosen after watering or rain.