Clivia (Clivia). The appearance of “white cotton wool” on the leaves indicates the presence of a mealybug

Among flower growers, a beautiful and unpretentious flower in cultivation is very popular - clivia. Home care comes down to watering and maintaining favorable conditions for growth. Annually, the plant forms flower stalks with bright bell-shaped flowers. All the subtleties of growing clivia will be described in this article.

Clivia is a perennial. Belongs to the evergreen plants of the Amaryllis family. A multi-flowered plant that forms a false stem. It is formed from xiphoid leaves tightly adjacent to each other. The arrangement of the leaves is fan-shaped. The rhizome is powerful, thickened. how indoor flower clivia is interesting because good care lives up to 40 years.

Flowering begins at 4-5 years of age. Blooms in winter when most plants are dormant. Flowers - bells, collected in umbrellas. classic colors- red and orange. Breeders managed to develop new varieties with color from light ocher to intense red. Growers can choose from a full palette of yellows and oranges. Adult specimens with good care produce up to 50 flower arrows.

Popular varieties

Clivia varieties differ in size, color of flowers, shape of leaves. For breeding in an apartment, the following varieties are recommended.

1. Clivia cinnabar. The most common variety. The leaves are dense green, belt-like, slightly tapering towards the top, up to 60 cm long. During flowering, it throws out a powerful peduncle up to half a meter long. The flowers are orange with a red tint, collected in inflorescences of 10-20 pieces. Blooms in late winter or in early spring. In some varietal hybrids, the leaves are decorated with yellow or white stripes. The variety has a second name - clivia miniata.
2. Gardena. Developed shrub up to half a meter in height. The leaves are xiphoid, deep green. The main difference is in the shape of the flowers. They are bell-shaped, narrowed, red in color with a greenish border. Peduncles are tall, each inflorescence includes up to 15 flowers. Blooms in winter.
3. Beautiful. Another name is noble. Compared to other varieties, it differs in miniature size. Even in optimal conditions height of the bush does not exceed 30 cm. The leaves are belt-shaped, with sharp edges. Peduncles are long, one inflorescence includes up to 40 flowers. Bells drooping, yellow-orange or pale red with a green border around the edge. Blooms in winter.
4. Variegated. The second name is variegated. The rarest variety. We love flower growers for their unusual, beautiful appearance. It looks decorative even without flowers. The leaves are wide with longitudinal white stripes. Flowers intense orange up to 6 cm, form inflorescences of 10-12 pieces. Blooms in February or early spring.

Important! Clivia - poisonous plant. Juice in contact with the skin causes irritation, mucous membranes - poisoning. When planting, transplanting, pruning flower stalks, it is recommended to wear rubber gloves.

Features of care and cultivation

Correctly organized care for clivia at home guarantees a friendly annual flowering. The main requirement is not to touch the plant unless absolutely necessary. Clivia is susceptible to any interference, up to touch. Creating favorable conditions for growth comes down to the following:

1. Lighting. Does not tolerate direct sunlight. Even in the east and west side it is protected by tulle. Do not put on the south. But the lack of lighting leads to slower growth and lack of flowering. If possible, in the summer they take out a street or a balcony, placing it in partial shade.
2. Temperature. During periods of growth, it feels comfortable at room temperature of 20-25 ° C. Since October, they provide a rest phase - the temperature is lowered to 12-14 ° C. Keeping cool is necessary for subsequent flowering. With the advent of peduncles, the plant is placed in warm place 18-20°C.
3. Humidity. The dry air of the apartments does not affect growth and flowering. There is no need for spraying and additional air humidification.
4. Watering. Adhere to moderate watering, the remaining water from the pan is immediately poured out. In autumn and winter, watering is minimized - the soil is slightly moistened only after it has completely dried. With the advent of buds, watering becomes more frequent.
5. Top dressing. Fertilizers are applied during growth and flowering at intervals of 2 weeks. Limit the introduction of nitrogen - it stimulates the growth of green mass, but leads to poor flowering.
6. The soil. Soil for clivia is used light and fertile. There are no special requirements for the composition of the soil. Take any soil mixtures for flowering plants or mix leaf and sod land. Sand is added for loosening. A prerequisite is drainage. Avoid standing water at the bottom of the pot.
7. Transfer. The less often a clivia transplant is performed, the better. It is recommended to use the transshipment method so as not to disturb the roots. Transplant the plant when root system ceases to fit in the pot. Strongly do not increase the size of the pot - this negatively affects flowering.

Advice! Clivia does not respond well to any intervention. It cannot be turned without the need, rearranged from one place to another, replanted once again, loosen the soil, touch. Often clivia does not bloom for this very reason.

Clivia breeding methods

Propagated by seeds and vegetatively. It is not recommended to specially separate the children so as not to disturb the plant once again.

1. Reproduction by children. Young growth is separated from the mother bush at the same time as the transplant. Each should have 4 leaves. Young plants are planted in separate small containers. The optimal substrate is sand or perlite. At first, adhere to scarce watering to avoid root rot. The first flowering is expected in a couple of years.
2. Reproduction by seeds. Sow to a depth of no more than 1 cm in a sand-peat mixture. The soil is moistened with a spray gun, the container is covered with a film. Seedlings begin to appear after 1-1.5 months. As the true leaves appear, the seedlings are planted in separate cups.

Advice! Clivia seeds can be obtained from mother plant. But the fruit matures for about 10 months, depleting the plant. Therefore, it is better to buy seeds in the store. The first two years, the seedlings are not satisfied with the dormant period. Forces are directed to the formation of leaves, so that in subsequent years the plant will bloom profusely.

Problems and pests

When growing clivia, they face a number of problems - diseases, pests and loss of decorativeness due to improper care.

1. Mealy bugs. The most common clivia problem. The entire plant is affected. The leaves are deformed, dry out, the plant gradually dies. In the early stages, rubbing the affected areas with a soapy sponge, followed by a "bath" under warm water, helps. In case of severe damage, spraying with a 0.15% Aktellika solution is recommended.
2. Brown leaf tips. He talks about waterlogging the soil. Watering is temporarily stopped, then moderate humidity is maintained.
3. Short peduncle. Lack of moisture or low temperature in the room.
4. White spots. When located on a strongly lit window - the result of a sunburn.
5. Faded leaves. Flaw nutrients in the soil. Carry out top dressing with preparations for flowering plants.
6. Lack of flowering. Violation of the regime during the dormant period, frequent plant transplants.

The main rule when growing clivia is not to touch it without emergency. The rest of the care is simple and straightforward. It looks equally beautiful during flowering and dormancy.

In total there are 5 types of clivia. The most popular species grown at home is cinnabar clivia (Clivia miniata). Its other names are: orange clivia (matte red, red lead, red lead), or kaffir (Cape).

A huge number of varieties of clivia have been developed, which have a rich range of colors. The plant comes in almost all orange, red and yellow tones.

Clivia care at home

This section details how to care for cinnabar clivia at home.

Temperature. The temperature depending on the time of year when caring for clivia should be varied. In summer, the recommended temperature is from 20 to 25 ° C, in winter - no higher than 15 ° C.

Lighting. Room clivia loves pretty sunny places, but direct sunlight can cause burns. With a lack of sun, flowering will not be full, the flowers will become small, and the peduncles will be short.

Watering clivia. Watering clivia at home should be moderate. Lowering the temperature affects the exactingness in moisture. It is preferable to use soft, boiled or settled water. By the way, you need to pay attention to the water temperature, if there is no flowering for too long, it should be warm. With the appearance of peduncles with a height of 10 cm, you need to water more often.

Air humidity does not play a role in cultivation, so it does not make sense to spray the leaves for the purpose of moisturizing.

top dressing. In the spring-summer period, fertilizers can be applied every half a month. It could be like complex fertilizers, and the alternation of organic and mineral. Top dressing should be stopped at the time when the clivia enters the dormant period, as this will exhaust its strength, and the flower may die.

Soil and drainage. Cultivation is best obtained in loose, slightly acidic soil containing peat, humus (25% each) and soddy soil (50% in composition). Drainage for cultivation is a must.

Clivia transplant

This flower tolerates a transplant quite painfully. Damaged roots will rot after transplanting. Therefore, it is often better to carry out only transshipment of the plant.

Transshipment of clivia should be done after flowering, but not more often than once every two years. For young cleaves, you can do it once a year. It is also recommended once a year to simply update 5 cm of the top layer of the substrate.

Be sure to remember that clivia loves a cramped pot. And once again, she should not be disturbed by transplants. And if you have already taken up the transplant, then you need to do this very carefully so as not to damage the roots of the plant.

reproduction

The plant propagates at home by seeds or offspring.

Sow to a depth of 1 cm in a mixture of sand and peat, cover with foil or glass to keep warm. After about 40 days, shoots appear from the seeds, after another 60 days they can be transplanted. Interestingly, young plants love the same small pots.

Seeds in the substrate

Vegetative propagation of clivia includes dividing the bush during transplantation. Separate should be carefully, because the root system is very delicate. Children must have at least 4 leaves. Interestingly, this representative of the Amaryllis family lacks a regular bulb. It is replaced by leaves that clasp each other and make up a fairly strong stem.

Clivia poisonousness

Clivia contains the alkaloid lycorine. Therefore, plants are poisonous flower, this should be taken into account for those who have children in the house.

Diseases and problems with the flower

This beautiful plant can get sick from,. Follow the links to see photos of damaged plants and pests, and how to deal with the latter.

Why is the clivia not blooming? If there is no flowering at all, then you need to check whether the air temperature is high, whether there is enough light, whether a dormant period is provided in full clivia.

Why are clivia leaves covered with white spots? If white spots appear on the leaves, then the flower has received a sunburn.

Why do the tips of the leaves turn brown? The tips of the leaves turned brown, which means that the earth is too moist.

Why do clivia leaves turn yellow? If the leaves turn yellow in small quantities and at the same time are periodically updated, then everything is in order with the flower. This is a normal process. But if most of the foliage has turned yellow, then this is the first alarm. There may be several reasons. Leaves may turn yellow in case of too poor or excessively abundant watering. If the second is true, then the clivia must be immediately removed from the pot and checked for root rot. If decay occurs, bad roots are carefully removed, the cut points are disinfected. After that, the clivia must be transplanted into a new substrate.

Leaves may also turn yellow after changing conditions. environment(for example, the flower was moved to another place in the room). Lack of nutrition can also lead to yellowing of the foliage.

Videos clivia

Flower clivia (lat. Clivia), or kaffir lily belongs to a small genus of evergreen herbaceous perennials of the Amaryllis family. In nature, clivia flowers grow on the west coast. South Africa and are represented by only three types. As a houseplant, clivia attracts with its beauty and ease of care. Indoor clivia is beautiful both during flowering and during dormancy, because not only the bell-shaped flowers of the plant are beautiful, but also its juicy dark green leaves. Clivia belongs to the plants of the Sagittarius sign, therefore, for those born under this zodiac sign, it helps to maintain vitality and protects them from negative influences.

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Planting and caring for clivia (in a nutshell)

• Bloom: about a month in late winter or early spring.
• Lighting: bright diffused light (western, eastern or northern windowsill).
• Temperature: 20-25 ˚C during the growing season and 12-15 ˚C during the dormant period.
• Watering: moderate, between waterings upper layer substrate must dry.
• Air humidity: irrelevant.
• Top dressing: during the period of growth and flowering every 2 weeks with mineral or organic fertilizers.
• rest period: from October or November for one and a half to two months.
• Transfer: young ones - annually, adults - once every 2 or 3 years, large specimens are not transplanted: annually in their pots they replace the top layer of the substrate 5 cm thick.
• Reproduction: seed and vegetative (lateral shoots).
• Pests: aphids, scale insects, mealybugs.
• Diseases: gray rot, staganosporosis, root rot.

Read more about growing clivia below.

Clivia flower - growing features

Indoor clivia flower is a stemless evergreen with dark green elastic xiphoid leaves 40 to 75 cm long and 5.5 to 8 cm wide. Clivia basal leaves, forming a rosette, tightly embrace each other, forming a false stem. Ribbed along the edges of the peduncle, which one plant can have several, reaches a height of 20 to 40 cm, it forms an umbrella-shaped inflorescence of 12-30 bell-shaped flowers with a diameter of 15 to 20 cm, blooming gradually, so the flowering of clivia lasts up to three weeks . The fruit of the clivia is a berry. In home floriculture, cinnabar clivia (clivia miniata) and beautiful clivia (clivia nobilis) are most often grown. What distinguishes the clivia plant from other amaryllis and other indoor flowers?

• is, as it were, a transitional plant from bulbous to rhizomatous. It has a short, juicy rhizome with thick fleshy roots.
• All parts of clivia are used in pharmacology, but it should be remembered that the roots and leaves of clivia are toxic because they contain lycorine, which causes increased salivation, vomiting, and even paralysis in large doses, so be careful when transplanting the plant and warn your family about these clivia properties.
• At home, clivia needs a rest period in a cool room, but if the rules for caring for the plant are followed and you are comfortable with it, then in adulthood Clivia can bloom even twice a year.
• Clivia does not tolerate disturbance: do not rearrange or rotate the pot during flowering or bud formation, do not transplant the plant until the roots begin to crawl out of the drainage hole.

Clivia care at home

How to care for clivia

Clivia care will not cause you any difficulties and will not require any special conditions to be met, like exotic orchids, for example. The best place for clivia - the sill of an east-facing window. Or west. Or to the north - the main thing is that the lighting is bright, but direct sunlight does not burn the plant. A comfortable temperature for clivia is 20-25 ºC during the growing season and 12-15 ºC during the dormant period. In the summer, clivia likes to be outdoors somewhere in partial shade. Clivia does not care about the level of humidity in the air, so you will need to wash the leaves only for hygiene reasons. Moisture of the plant should be moderate, between watering the topsoil in the pot should dry out. Water for irrigation needs soft - settled, and preferably boiled. Fertilizers will be required for clivia during the period of growth and flowering - after the appearance of the peduncle, feed the plant alternately with liquid organic and complete mineral fertilizer at the rate of 2 g per 1 liter of water every two weeks, but remember that excess nitrogen in fertilizing can prevent the second flowering of clivia.

Clivia transplant

Clivia needs to be transplanted only in last resort when the roots come out of the pot. How and when is it right to transplant clivia? Usually, adult clivias have to be transferred to a new, larger pot after flowering (and only!) Every two or three years. Young plants are transplanted annually. Be very careful not to break the roots during transplantation, and if this does happen, immediately sprinkle the wounds with crushed charcoal, because broken roots easily rot. You will need a small pot, frankly, cramped, but this is done so that the clivia blooms longer and more beautifully. A mixture of sand, leaf and sod land in equal parts is suitable as soil. And don't forget the drainage layer. Very large old clivias are no longer transplanted, they annually renew the top layer of soil - about 5 cm.

Clivia bloom

Clivia usually blooms in late winter or early spring, and as soon as you notice that the flower arrow has reached 10-15 cm, move the plant from a cool room to a warm, bright place, increase watering and start fertilizing regularly. Keep in mind that from the moment the clivia returns to the bright, warm window sill, it can no longer be moved or rotated. Clivia bloom lasts about a month - depending on the number of peduncles and flowers on them.

Clivia after flowering

When the clivia blooms, it can be placed on a balcony, terrace or taken out into the garden, finding a windless shady place for it. If you want to get the plant to bloom again, bring it in the summer, after resting in the garden, in a gloomy room, reduce watering and stop feeding. After two weeks, the lower leaves will start to turn yellow, but a flower arrow may appear, and when it reaches 10-15 cm ... you already know what to do next. However, keep in mind that only a strong adult plant can re-bloom.

Clivia care in winter

Or rather, in the fall - after all, it is at this time that the dormant period of clivia begins. The larger the plant, the longer it should rest after flowering. Young clivia should rest from September for two months. Large adult specimens rest (if they have already faded) from October to February. The best place for this is a glazed loggia.

Reproduction of clivia

Clivia from seeds

How to grow clivia? There are generative and vegetative ways clivia breeding. Anyone who decides to get seeds from their own clivia will have to resort to artificial pollination. If you can do this, we wish you good luck. For those who do not seek to complicate their lives, it will be easier to buy seeds in the store. Growing clivia from seeds is preceded by soaking planting material for swelling for a day in water, then clivia seeds are sown in a mixture of peat and perlite (some prefer a mixture of sand with peat and soddy soil) to about a centimeter depth. The distance between the seeds is about 2 cm. The container is placed in a greenhouse and kept at a temperature of 20-25 ºC, airing and moistening as needed. Sprouts appear in a month and a half. After the appearance of the first leaf, the seedlings are carefully dived into personal pots with a mixture of clay, humus and deciduous soil, and then annually transferred to pots bigger size. Clivia grows slowly - in the first year only two or three leaves develop, in the second year - three or four pairs of leaves, then two pairs of leaves per year. Clivia grown from seeds blooms in the fifth or sixth year.

Reproduction by side shoots

The vegetative propagation method of clivia is much simpler than the generative one. It is only necessary when transplanting an adult specimen that has faded this year, very carefully, so as not to damage the fragile root system, to separate the lateral processes - clivia babies - from the mother plant. Those who have already formed at least four leaves are suitable. The separated shoots are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 7 cm with sand and, placed in a bright, warm place, they are looked after like an adult plant, with the only difference being that they need a little more heat and a little less moisture. In the third or fourth year, young clivia will bloom.

Pests and diseases of clivia

Diseases and insects

Of insect pests, clivia is affected by mealybugs, aphids or scale insects. Scale insects leave brown plaques on leaves and stems - Business Cards sucking pest cell sap from a plant, from which the leaves turn pale and dry. Mealybugs deform the leaves, arrows and flowers of the plant. To combat all these pests, wiping the leaves with a soapy sponge is used, and then the plant is sprayed with a fifteen percent actellik solution (a couple of milliliters per liter of water).

From too frequent and too abundant watering, clivia can be affected by gray rot - fungal disease, manifested by brown spots on the leaves of the plant. If the infection is superficial, spray the clivia with Bordeaux liquid, Topaz or Champion. If the fungicide treatment does not produce the desired effect, apply copper-containing preparations combined or contact action - cuproskat, vitriol.

Why does the clivia not bloom

Very often site visitors ask how to make clivia bloom. But in order to find incentives, you need to find out the reasons why the clivia does not bloom. There may be several reasons: firstly, a warm wintering, or rather, a rest period spent in a warm room; secondly, non-compliance with the rules of the dormant period - abundant watering or unnecessary top dressing at this time; thirdly, the reason may be an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, which promote the growth of greenery, but prevent the flowering of clivia. Reread the rules for growing a plant and determine what you made a mistake.

Clivia leaves turn yellow

If the lower leaves of the plant turn yellow and die and this happens during the dormant period - everything is in order, you are a witness to the natural course of things. But if the problem is not related to the rest period of the clivia, then your concern is justified. So why does clivia turn yellow? Sometimes this is a reaction of the plant to a transplant, so you need to add a few drops of root or other root growth stimulant to the water for irrigation within one and a half to two months. But most often the problem is in improper moistening of the clivia: you either water it insufficiently, or pour, on the contrary, too much water, or do it too often. If watering is insufficient, this is easy to fix, but if you overdid it with moisture, you will have to change the substrate to save the flower, after cutting off the rotten roots and disinfecting all sections. Sometimes the leaves of clivia turn yellow from lack of nutrition. In a word, the problem is in violation of the rules for caring for a plant - here in them, in the rules, and look for the cause of the disease, and, having discovered the cause, it is easy to find its solution.

Leaves dry on clivia

The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry, as a rule, due to waterlogging of the soil. It is worth remembering that the rhizome of the plant is a storehouse of moisture reserves and other substances useful for the plant, so do not try to water the plant once for life - in this matter, as in any other, you need to follow the measure.

Clivia is an undemanding plant that looks spectacular during the flowering period. This explains the popularity of culture. Growing it at home is easy. In addition, flowering usually begins by the middle or end of winter, and at this time of the year it is difficult to find a flowering crop, especially with such an exquisite appearance. To achieve proper growth and flowering clivia, it is enough to fulfill a number of conditions for caring for it.

Description

Clivia is houseplant evergreen type. Bulbs as such do not exist, but instead there are voluminous roots. They are fleshy, thick and have a whitish color. There is no stem, the plant is characterized by elongated leaves. They are dark green. From basal sheet plates, which do not completely cover each other, a false stem is formed. If you grow clivia at home, then it reaches 50 cm in height. The flowers are collected on the peduncle in umbrellas with a diameter of 20 cm. Flowering usually lasts no more than a month.

Clivia belongs to the Amaryllis family. In the wild, it grows in the humid subtropical forests of southern Africa. There it is used for medicinal purposes with extreme caution, since the juice of the plant is poisonous (it appears if the foliage is damaged, it has a yellowish tint).

At home, as a rule, 3 main types of clivia are grown:

1. 1. Cinnabar. It is also called minium-orange. In height, the plant is up to 0.4-0.5 m. The inflorescences are in the form of a rosette of 10-20 pieces. They appear at the end of winter and fade only in May. Sometimes buds appear at other times of the year.
2. 2. Gardena. It can be up to 0.5 m in height. 10-16 flowers are collected in a rosette. They bloom only in the second half of winter.
3. 3. Noble. Also called beautiful. In height, usually 0.3-0.5 m. Inflorescences are collected from 40-50 specimens. They also appear in the second half of winter.

Based on these types, hybrid varieties with different coloration.

Planting and reproduction

Clivia can be propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

Before sowing collected or purchased seeds, they are supposed to be soaked in warm water during the day. When the seeds swell, they need to be distributed in pots filled with a mixture of peat and sand. In addition, you need to add a large number of perlite and soddy soil. It is supposed to make ditches in the ground 2 cm deep and place the seeds there. Keep the container covered with foil. Optimum temperature for germination - 20-250 C. The light should be diffused. As necessary, it is supposed to remove condensate from the film and moisten the soil. Usually shoots appear only after 1-1.5 months. As soon as 2 true leaves are formed, the plant needs to dive - a transplant into a separate pot is required. With this method of reproduction, flowering will occur only 5 years after planting.

Another way to grow clivia is vegetatively. Amateur flower growers prefer it. Clivia regularly has "kids". They are supposed to be taken very carefully from the pot with the mother plant. In order for the lateral processes to develop independently, they must have at least 4 true leaves. The plant should be planted in a separate small pot. Usually flowering occurs after 3 years.

A clivia transplant is as follows:

1. 1. Water the plant a few hours before transplanting.
2. 2. Carefully remove the roots from the pot along with the earthy clod. If the flower is still young, then they are supposed to be washed, but carefully so as not to damage them. Broken, rotten and affected roots must be removed, and the cut points should be sprinkled with activated charcoal powder.
3. 3. Pour drainage into the bottom of the new pot - no more than 25% of the height of the container. Expanded clay can be used broken brick, rubble.
4. 4. Pour the prepared soil mixture on top. Layer - 3 cm thick. The soil should be light and loose, with a weak acid reaction. The ideal option is a mixture of equal parts of turf, leafy soil and sand. You can purchase a ready-made substrate for orchids - it will also work.
5. 5. Plant a clivia: carefully place the roots in a pot, straighten and sprinkle with soil. root collar should be at ground level.
6. 6. Tamp the ground so that there are no voids in the container, and pour abundantly.

Transplantation should be carried out after flowering. This event is carried out in cases where the flower is supposed to replace the soil, or if the roots stick out of the ground. The container should be chosen 2-3 cm larger in diameter than the previous pot. Clivia should be a little crowded in it so that flowering begins faster. The tank also needs holes in the bottom to drain the water.

Transplantation is recommended to be carried out no more than 1 time in 2-3 years. Young plants are supposed to change the pot every year, but carry out the procedure very carefully. Old flowers that are more than 10 years old are not allowed to be transplanted: they replace the top 5 cm of soil.

Care

Clivia care at home comes down to the following activities:

1. 1. Lighting. Direct rays are not allowed, as they leave burns on the leaves. The ideal option is bright but diffused light. The best place is a window sill on the west or east side. You can also put a flower in the south room, but not near the window. Clivia does not bloom if it does not have enough light.
2. 2. Temperature. The optimal indicator: + 20 + 25 0 C. During a hot summer, it is recommended to ventilate the room, but you can’t put a pot with a plant in a draft. In winter, it is necessary to create all conditions for a dormant period. To do this, the clivia is transferred to a cool room with a temperature of + 12 + 14 0 C. After a few months, a flower arrow will be noticeable. This is a sign that it is time to transfer the flower to a more warm room(temperature should be around +20 0 С).
3. 3. Humidity. This plant is able to adapt to any humidity. But experts advise regularly wiping smooth clivia leaves with a damp soft cloth to remove dust. You can still bathe a flower - arrange a shower for it, but the soil is supposed to be covered with plastic wrap.
4. 4. Watering. It must be moderate. Do not over-moisten the soil and allow the water to stagnate. During the dormant period, when the clivia has already faded, watering needs to be reduced. It will be most abundant during the formation of buds. For humidification, it is required to use purified and settled water. room temperature. Periodically, after watering, it is required to loosen the soil so that the roots have access to oxygen. Otherwise, over time, the leaves of the clivia turn yellow.
5. 5. Top dressing. When buds appear, you need to use complex 2 times a month. mineral fertilizers, which are intended for flowering plants (they have a low nitrogen content). At the end of summer, top dressing must be stopped.

Clivia is quite sensitive to various fungal diseases like gray mold or powdery mildew. Typically, such infections develop due to dampness, frequent overflow, stagnation of water in the soil and low temperatures. To get rid of fungal diseases, it is necessary to treat the plant and soil with fungicidal agents (Topaz, Champion). Experts advise transplanting the flower into a new pot with fresh soil.

As for insects, mealybugs, scale insects, and aphids are dangerous for clivia. Pests can be removed manually, and then treated with insecticidal agents. Aktara or Aktellik will do. The preparations are supposed to be diluted according to the instructions and sprayed with the crown, as well as water the soil. The active ingredients penetrate into the juice, and the leaves become poisonous to insects. When they feed on a plant, they quickly die.

When choosing fertilizers for top dressing, give preference to specialized fertilizers. Although any fertilizer for flowering plants will do. The main thing is that it does not contain a large amount, which will slow down the main flowering and prevent the possible re-blooming of the clivia. A good result is the alternation of liquid organics and a complete mineral complex. For the normal development of the plant, two per month is enough from the beginning of the growing season (out of dormancy) until the end of summer - the beginning of autumn.

As for, for clivia it is insignificant. You can limit yourself to simply wiping the leaves with a damp sponge. And even then, it is more of a hygienic procedure.

Clivia bloom

The first flowering of clivia grown from seed. The plant is four and a half years old.

It usually occurs at the end of winter - spring. Although there are not rare exceptions. The timing of flowering clivia may shift depending on the conditions of detention, age, size and condition of the plant. Mature and well-groomed plants often bloom again, after a certain period of time. The main thing to remember if you want to get a beautiful and abundant flowering clivia - provide the plant for this period good lighting, regular watering and appropriate temperature.

Important! After the plant has come out of dormancy and you have moved it to a bright, warm place, its various movements, including the rotation of the pot, are unacceptable.

Care after flowering

Clivia flowering is relatively long. It can last up to a month. After its completion, you can safely transfer the flower to Fresh air in light shade. At the same time, you can carry out a transplant, separation of children. Often the question arises - What to do with the peduncle? Cut the clivia flower stalk or not? My advice is don't rush. The peduncle is essentially a modified leaf and it plays a role in the life of the plant. It is also likely that the clivia will bear fruit and you will want to let it ripen in order to get seeds suitable for propagation. At the same time, you will have to cut the peduncle anyway, but the plant itself will tell you when it is better to do it. Gradually, it will begin to turn yellow and dry out. Usually, with the onset of wintering, the peduncle can be removed.

Clivia transplant

This flower does not like transplants. Therefore, it is better not to disturb him unnecessarily. In adult plants, this need arises most often when the roots no longer fit in the old pot and begin to break through the drainage holes. But even in this case, it is advisable to limit yourself to a more spacious pot. Usually, the need for a clivia transplant occurs every three years. Young plants in the first years of life are transplanted more often. This is due to the more intensive development of the root system and the whole plant as a whole. Be very careful when transplanting. Try not to damage the roots of the flower. Any damage to the clivia root system can lead to its decay and death of the plant. If the spine is still damaged, be sure to immediately sprinkle it with crushed activated charcoal.

This is what the root system of clivia looks like after cleaning from the ground. It remains only to remove a couple - three damaged roots, and you can plant in a new pot.

Note! Clivia does not like spacious dishes. Therefore, the next pot for transplanting, pick up only slightly larger than the previous one. In a spacious pot, it will not bloom well.

The composition of the land suitable for clivia is quite simple and it is quite possible to cook it yourself at home. It is enough to mix in equal parts soddy soil, leafy soil and sand. For young plants, you can slightly increase the sand content in the mixture, or even better, replace it with or. Before transplanting (transferring) into a new pot, be sure to pour a layer of drainage material.

Important! Make sure that the entire lower part of the leaves remains above the ground. Otherwise, there is a high probability of their decay.

Reproduction of clivia

This can be done in two ways: by seeds and by separating the baby. True, for this it is necessary to have either a seed or a baby.

Reproduction by seeds

Often, the clivia fruit is tied up on its own, without third-party intervention. But in order to be guaranteed to get a fruit, it will be necessary to carry out cross pollination flowers. The ripening of the fetus is quite long, it can last up to nine months. When the berries become quite soft, this will be a sign of maturity.

Keep in mind! Fruiting depletes the plant. So don't overuse it.

The seeds, cleared of pulp, are planted in a light mixture of sand (or perlite) and grassroots peat. The seed is deepened to a centimeter depth and placed under a transparent cap ( glass jar, for example). Care for the planted seed is the same as for or ordinary flower and vegetable seeds. Depending on the conditions, seedlings may appear in a month and a half. When the first true leaf appears, young clivia can be planted in a small pot with permanent soil. As the flower develops, transplant it into another, larger dish. After three years, on the fourth, you can try to stimulate flowering. To do this, with the onset of autumn, stop watering and place the flower for two months in a cool place. If the clivia does not bloom, it's okay. So it's not time yet.

Reproduction by children

A year after flowering and transplantation, clivia gave birth to a baby. Accordingly, she is now in her sixth year.

This is an easier way, although it requires extreme care and caution. And the flowering of such clivia comes much earlier. But first you need to wait until the plant gives a baby and it reaches a sufficient size. A clivia baby suitable for separation must have at least four leaves. It is planted from the mother plant after the end of flowering simultaneously with the transplant. The separated baby is planted in a small pot filled with a very light substrate. Often, clean sand or perlite is used for this. The biggest danger that awaits young clivia at this stage is waterlogging. Therefore, try to water it very moderately. When the plant grows up and its roots get stronger, it can be transplanted into a more nutritious, but not particularly heavy soil. Clivia propagated in this way may well bloom in two to three years.

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