How to transfer an image from paper to wood. An easy way to transfer an image to a tree

Drawing technology

The method is based on the thermal transfer of the toner and is quite often used to make printed circuit boards at home.
We will use this method for drawing a pattern on plywood. So let's get started.
First we need to prepare a drawing and paper.

Drawing

You can download it on our website among the crafts you like, or read how to prepare a drawing yourself in the next article.

Paper

We will need glossy paper, the main quality of which will be a low toner retention rate. For example, it can be paper from a glossy magazine, but personally I use paper backing for labels. If you don’t have any of the above recommended at hand, then you can take plain paper, this technology will also work.

Printing a pattern

When printing, you need to remember that the image will be translated as a mirror image, so you need to prepare your layout in advance by "reflecting it horizontally". You can do this programmatically or select the appropriate setting in the printer settings, provided that your printer supports this function.

Also, in the settings, it is worth turning on high-quality printing - this will give large quantity toner on the sheet and, as a result, a faster transfer of the pattern to plywood.

Transferring a picture

To transfer the pattern, place the printed layout with the toner down on the plywood, and slowly smooth the reverse side with an iron. It takes about one minute to transfer an A4 size pattern.

Iron

An ordinary iron can be used as a toner transfer oven. If you decide to take an iron, which is also used in everyday life, then take care of its safety - use a pad of paper and cloth to avoid the formation of carbon deposits on its surface.

As for me, I use an iron for trimming aircraft models, it is quite convenient, since you can set the required temperature on it - 190 degrees. The surface of the ironing has long been accustomed to different experiments so I don't use a spacer.

Alternatively, you can use building hair dryer and roller.

Removing paper

After evenly smoothing the layout with an iron, before removing the paper layer, you should wait for some time, allowing the transferred toner to cool down.

When the paper is removed, you should check the lines of the drawing, how successfully they were transferred, and, if necessary, draw the missing elements with a pencil.
At this stage, the transfer of the drawing to plywood is completed.

Conclusion

This technology also has one minus, in the pursuit of saving time, the development of a number of important human qualities is missed, such as:
concentration, patience, perseverance, concentration, accuracy, slowness, thoroughness.
According to this, for beginners, school-age children, I would recommend first trying the traditional methods of drawing a drawing on plywood:
Translation through carbon copy or template making.

If you do not know how to draw, but would like to learn, you should start with a simple one - copying drawings. To begin with, this can be done with the help of tracing paper. This method is the easiest to perform. Now let's learn more exactly how to transfer a drawing from

Instruction

To transfer an image, follow the steps below:

1. We select the image and, putting the tracing paper on it, draw all the lines with tight pressure, using a black acrylic pen.
2. Now we turn the tracing paper over and put it face down on the sheet of paper on which you want to transfer the image.
3. Press firmly and pass over it with a hot iron.
4. Now we remove the tracing paper and additionally draw insufficiently clear lines.
5. The image is ready.

This method is used for simple pictures that do not contain a large number intricate details. Now you know how to transfer a drawing from paper to paper. in a simple way. After trying it, you can proceed to others.

More complicated way

You can use the copy grid to transfer complex patterns. With its help, it is also possible to zoom in or out on the image itself.

• original drawing;
• transparencies;
• paper;
• duct tape;
• ruler;
• pencil.

Instruction

To master this method, follow these steps:

1. We apply a transparent film on the original image, which shows squares of the same size.
2. We put the same cell on a blank sheet of paper if the picture is reproduced in the original. How to transfer a drawing from paper to paper when the image needs to be resized? When increasing, the sizes of the squares are made larger, when we decrease, respectively, smaller.
3. Now all you have to do is move the image over the cells.
4. When the picture is completely transferred with a pencil, you can begin to decorate.

Now you know how to transfer an image from paper to paper. Consider other surfaces.

The body as the foundation

A tattoo is a highlight of appearance, but not everyone decides to put a drawing on the skin, realizing that this decision is made for life. For people who are afraid of such an act, but want to decorate their body with a beautiful image, great solution are To learn how to transfer a design from paper to leather, you need to study the following information. The main stage is a clear drawing of the contours of the future image.

The picture can be applied to the body using:

• tracing paper.

First way

For it you need to do the following:

1. Choosing a pattern, determining the place of its application, disinfecting the skin.
2. Translation of the image on a carbon copy. To do this, put the paper on the original and carefully outline all its contours.
3. Wet the carbon paper with alcohol and apply it to the body.
4. To make the outlines print well, circle them again through the carbon paper, trying to leave it intact.

Second way

It is based on the use of tracing paper. You need to take the following steps:

1. We draw the drawing itself with a helium pen.
2. We disinfect the skin and smear with soap.
3. We apply tracing paper and outline the contours with a sharp object.
4. Now we paint over the drawing.

If you still decide to put a permanent drawing on your body, approach this very carefully. The main thing is to choose a good salon, take an allergy test and make sure that all the tools are disinfected.

How to transfer a drawing from paper to glass

To work, we take an image with good contours and a roll. To transfer, you need to purchase a felt-tip pen - a glass marker, it fits well and is easily washed off the surface.

Instruction:

1. We take film. Its size should be slightly larger than the drawing itself. The film is attached to the surface, which prevents the picture from going astray.
2. The image is placed on the film and outlined thinly and very carefully.
3. Now the film is gently transferred with the front side to the previously prepared surface. Preparation consists in degreasing its front side. Make sure that the film is completely stuck to the glass, get rid of wrinkles and bubbles.
4. For a clearer transfer, we circle the image again along the contour with any sharp object.
5. It's time to get rid of polyethylene. We do this very carefully so as not to smear the drawing. If there are inaccuracies somewhere, now is the time to correct them.
6. Now we draw a contour. This can be done with acrylic paints and a brush.
7. After everything has dried, carefully with cotton swabs dipped in liquid, we get rid of traces of the marker.
8. Inside the image is filled in any way. If the technique is stained glass, then everything is poured along the contour.
9. After drying, for a longer service life of the product, the image can be baked or varnished. It all depends on where this item will be used.

How to transfer a drawing from paper to wood

In order to see your favorite image on a wooden base, you just need to follow the steps below.

For work you will need:

• drawing printed on a laser printer;
• wooden plank;
• acrylic gel medium;
• flat tool for leveling the pattern;
• paint and rag;
• soft paraffin or matte glue;
• 2 brushes.

Instruction:

1. Image selection. It should be a drawing that will look nice on a wooden base. To give some resemblance to vintage style it can be processed in special programs.
2. The image is printed only on a laser printer, this is the main condition.
3. A smooth wooden base is selected.
4. Now apply an even layer of the gel medium. It is he who will help the image to be transferred to the prepared surface.
5. We place the pattern with the front side to the base. At the moment of connection, bubbles appear, which, if possible, should be smoothed out.
6. The work is finished for today, leave everything for the night, continue tomorrow.
7. It's time to remove the paper. To do this, wet it and rub it with your fingers. Right now you are witnessing a miracle - when you remove the paper, you can see how the image remains on the tree.
8. Now you can use wood paint. Keep an eye on its amount so that the image does not darken.
9. Now apply liquid paraffin. If necessary, the last two steps can be repeated after the first coat has dried.

Other basics for transferring an image

Metal is the basis, also suitable for such "tricks". For accurate and fairly accurate work, two center lines are drawn on it or the corners of the image are marked. Now let's take a closer look at how to transfer a drawing from paper to metal.

The most common is to use carbon paper for this. Since metal is a very hard material, it is coated with white or light paint. The transfer process begins after the varnish has completely dried, which is applied just before the start of the main work.

Instruction

This method requires the following rules:

1. The pattern is very tightly fixed on the product. You can use soapy water for this.
2. Many craftsmen use chasing-kanfarnik for this work. With it, the image is very accurate - almost a jeweler's work, which, however, takes a lot of time and requires some preliminary training.
3. The tool is taken with three fingers, resting on the ring finger, which serves as a kind of spring. The coinage is located 2-3 mm from the drawing, its light strokes form a dotted line - the main contour of the image is drawn. The smaller the detail of the picture, the denser it breaks through.
4. When all the lines are transferred, you can wash off the paint.
5. The image can be varnished.

Now you know how to transfer a design from paper to paper, to leather, to glass, to wood, and to metal. Forward - for the tools, and good luck in your endeavors!

With a minimum amount of material and time spent, you can make a memorable gift or decoration in retro style for your interior with your own hands. The tree will give the shot a special inner glow, and you will also get beautiful matte shades on the transferred frame. This is a step-by-step illustrated master class on creating real works of art with your own hands.

You learn:
- Choose color images to transfer to the tree;
- Work with a gel medium (gel medium transfer - transfer gel, gel for transferring images; freely sold in Runet);
- Transfer any image to the surface;
- Competently complete the work of transferring the image to the surface.

1. Choose the right source materials.

The wooden base can be of any shape, but its surface must be perfectly smooth so that the image lies flat and without breaks in every sense. It is also preferable to use a light wood, because it is it that gives the very “inner glow”. A light base is especially important for portraits so that the skin tone does not change for the worse.

As for the photograph, it must be a printout on a laser printer and from the very beginning of a size equal to the size of the wooden base for transfer. Therefore, after printing, it is good to cut off excess white paper from the frame, so that it would be more convenient to work with it later. The picture should be high-contrast as a standard (you can process the image in a graphics editor on a PC, if this is not the case). But they give an excellent retro effect on a tree and the pictures are almost out of focus and with a very soft shades colors. See below for examples of suitable shots - from bottom to top and from right to left: contrast shot, but out of focus; the picture is out of focus and with soft shades; contrast shot in perfect focus. The tree will enhance the color rendition in any case.

Any transfer medium can be used, but the best image is obtained by a gel with a matte effect (marked "matt" on the package) and the most dense / thick consistency (marked "heavy" on the package).

Also to you come in handy:
- unnecessary plastic roller,
- (or) a wide wooden stick (bought at a pharmacy),
- a pair of medium-sized flat brushes for applying the composition (glue brushes),
- non-rigid sponge or sponge for dishes (new),
- water in a small bowl or a low glass,
- paper towels/napkins/handkerchiefs/toilet paper or thin kitchen towels,
- a small amount of oil (any liquid from the kitchen).

2. Right before you start, wipe your wood base several times with a clean, dry towel to remove any crumbs and dust.

3. Apply the transfer gel to the surface of the wood good layer: definitely not thin (a lot of wood should not be visible through the gel), but not very thick either (the gel layer should not look like an impenetrable icing on the cake either). Just squeeze out of the tube or spoon the gel from the container onto the tree, and then spread it in a more or less even layer with a brush (or wooden stick, or a plastic card - whichever is more convenient for you). Do not forget to make sure that the layer on the edges of the wooden base is not thinner than in the middle.

4. While the gel is still damp, place the print side down on the gel. The image can be cropped to a size slightly smaller (or much smaller) than the wooden base, then you end up with a thin or wide wooden frame around the image. Using your fingers gently (in order not to move the picture even a millimeter, hold it with one hand, gently smooth it in all directions with the other), smooth the superimposed photo, slightly pressing it to the surface and removing the air between the photo and the gel on the tree. It is important in no case to press so hard that the gel begins to squeeze out on the sides!

5. Smoothed out with your fingers, take a plastic card (it is more convenient than a stick, because the first edge gives more uniform pressure) and, again holding the picture with one hand, continue smoothing the white surface of the photo with the other side of the card.

6. After that, set your workpiece aside until the gel is COMPLETELY dry overnight. Resist the temptation to pick up the photo and see what happens: you will ruin your work for sure. If you work in the summer, you can also put the workpiece in the sun for a couple of hours (but not on the battery !!) and then check the degree of drying, and this may (!) be enough.

7. After the gel is COMPLETELY dry, take a sponge, moisten its edge a little in water (do not saturate it with water, just moisten it) and start applying water directly to the back white surface of the photo on the tree. Do this carefully in several passes (wetting the sponge several times), first blotting the picture with a sponge, and then, when there is already a lot of water on the paper, continuing to move carefully in a circular motion. That is why - so that the material does not immediately begin to be erased by pellets from water - it is necessary to print the picture initially on special paper for photographs, and not on ordinary office paper. Make sure to use the soft part of the sponge and not the hard part of the sponge. In the process, when squeezing the sponge, a whitish liquid will flow into the glass, and this is normal. The paper should be completely wet everywhere from the center to the edges without gaps.

8. Further, still continuing to moisten the sponge from time to time, begin to wipe the wet paper from the image with pellets. Make sure you work not only in one central area, but equally on the edges so that the paper does not rub off in one place, because you may start to delete your transferred image. Do not be especially afraid of this, rub with light pressure, and the paper will come off quickly, the main thing is not to rub one place with effort, as if you are rubbing a stain; in particular, do not rub where the paper is no longer there.

The paper should thus come off completely. If there are areas that don't want to rub off, use your own dampened fingers as they are smoother and feel better for pressure and progress.

Swipe without pressure with a sponge over the picture to remove all the pellets down to small ones, and then without pressing with wet fingers on the same surface to make sure by texture that there is no more paper left, even a thin layer.

Wipe the image with a clean, thin towel to remove paper dust and moisture.

At the end of this stage, moisten your fingers again and walk several times again, but almost completely without pressure, over the image, because the paper hairs probably still remain: while the paper is wet, it is not visible, but when it dries, it will become very noticeable if left on the image.

9. Dry the picture on the tree again with a thin towel. Set aside the tree with the image until completely dry from moisture.

10. As you can see in the picture below, even if you rub very carefully, after drying, some paper fibers still "appear" in the image. You can use the water again and then dry the picture again. But here is another, more efficient technique completion of work.

With one finger, pick up literally a couple of drops of oil and gently apply it to the picture in a circular motion. And as you work, you will see how these villi simply disappear. You have achieved the result you need - take a thin towel (paper or fabric) and start wiping the oil from the picture with the tip.

11. If during work, nevertheless, a small amount of gel has gone beyond the edges of the image on a wooden base, just gently pick up the frozen lumps of gel with your fingers.

12. By and large, the work is finished. But now you can decorate the frame, for example, using a special ornamental adhesive tape with a pattern - washi-tape (freely sold in Runet). Here the frame is presented as an abstraction, repeating and shading the colors of the image. It is also convenient to glue the side edges of the wooden base with it. You can also use acrylic paint instead of ribbons. Worth coloring too back side wood in one color.

All photos from the article

hallmark century high technology is the ease with which beauty is replicated and originality is put on stream. But if not everyone can become an artist and paint great canvases, then create unique images with the help of simple technologies under the power of many.

The tree is one of suitable materials on which a photograph or favorite drawing will look great. In addition to the fact that the quality of the product will remain unchanged for many years, it will be a kind of masterpiece or piece goods, depending on how you dispose of it.

The essence of technology

Don't let buzzwords like sublimation printing technology or graverton scare you, because they are one and the same, therefore, there is less incomprehensible. The technology is based on the principle of sublimation, when a substance under the influence of high temperature “jumps” from a gaseous state immediately to a solid one, bypassing the wet stage.

Graverton technology allows you to transfer a pattern to wood, metal, glass, fabric, and the process itself takes place in a certain order:

1. An image is printed on sublimation paper;
2. The front side is applied to the object being processed;
3. It is placed in a heat press for a certain time.

A huge number of things can be subjected to artistic processing - from shoes, dishes, fabrics to corporate symbols, puzzles and all sorts of other unexpected things.

The main disadvantage of the graverton technology is the need for special equipment and its high price:

• sublimation printer(starting from 500 thousand rubles with kopecks);
• thermal transfer press(from 9 to 30 thousand rubles).

And since you want to transfer the drawing to the tree at home from time to time, purchase expensive equipment makes sense only if you put things on a grand scale.

We create for ourselves

With a minimum of tools, you can also figure out how to translate an image onto a tree no worse than using high-tech equipment. Perhaps the most important thing is to decide on the topic, because erasing "nonsense" will be, oh, how difficult.

There are several rules that will teach you how to transfer a drawing to a tree so that it looks right:

1. The work surface should be bright and clean;
2. The direction of the wood fibers should not spoil the drawing, for example, oblique lines can add photos of extra wrinkles;
3. The subject with words/numbers is printed in mirror image(a photo editor will help rotate the image);

1. It is desirable to have a digital photo for scanning, with high quality Images;
2. In a wooden picture, the photo is always located with the front part to the tree, so we will not constantly remind you of this.

The first stage of work is to think about two questions - for what purpose and what you will "sketch". So, what happens can be presented, used for decoration, hung on the wall in the form of a funny maxim, used for practical purposes.

With an elegant vignette, composition or photograph, you can decorate not only a key chain, a small sheet of plywood / board, signs, but also doors, bed headboards, window sills, chairs - everything that makes sense to decorate. Here are some simple but effective ways how to transfer an image to a tree.

The first method is free

Free, because you can find it on a computer and make printouts on a laser printer at work or with friends. There you can also prepare the board by grinding it with fine-grained paper (P 220) or (there are always support staff in the staff - locksmiths and carpenters).

Let's start working:

• find pattern and zoom to required sizes, print;
• put the sheet on the board;
• iron with a hot iron.

You can moisten the sheet with acetone before transferring the picture to the tree so that the pigment comes off better, however, to the detriment home atmosphere. It would be useful to cover the nose and mouth with a gauze bandage or scarf. Typically, this technology is suitable for the subsequent burning of the pattern with a special tool.

Note! Put the carbon paper on the board with the coloring side down, on top of the necessary drawing and circle it with a pencil. The main thing is not to move the paper and not carry it with your hand, otherwise the board will get dirty. It makes sense if the drawing is small.

Method two - glue

In addition to high-precision technology, source code and wooden canvas, you will need:

• ordinary PVA glue;
• solvent;
• fine-grained emery;
• varnish, for example, Dulux;
• roller;
• sponge/long knife;
• a lot of patience.

Note! Experienced craftsmen it is advised to slightly brighten the image before transferring the photo to the tree, because in ready-made colors will be more saturated.

• degrease and /plywood;
• cover the surface of the photo with a continuous layer of glue;
• put the dirty side on the tree;

• roll out the sheet with a roller in the manner of smoothing the wallpaper, or by swiping with the flat side of the knife;
• leave to dry for a day;
• moisten the sheet with a damp sponge;
• start slowly and carefully erasing the paper with your own hands, or rather, with your fingers;
• let the work dry;
• varnish.

Method three - gel

From it you will learn how to transfer a drawing to a tree using an acrylic gel medium. This modeling paste, used to create a relief surface, costs more than 500 rubles, but it’s not worth saving, just like using an expired one. According to the masters good product manufactured by Raphael.

Of the tools and supplies you will need:

• photograph and tree of the same size;
• gel medium and brush to it;
• roller / knife / ruler;
• paraffin / matte glue used for decoupage;
• another brush for paraffin.

The work instruction is in many ways similar to the previous one:

• Apply the gel to the board with a brush. The layer should not be thick, but without bald spots;
• a photograph is placed on the treated area and smoothed out, expelling air bubbles;
• leave overnight in a secluded place;
• roll up paper, let dry;
• cover with paraffin.

We indulge in translations

I wonder how to transfer a photo to a tree without gel and glue? An alternative would be a clean decoupage film on which the photo will be printed.

After getting wet, the substrate is pulled out from under the top film, leaving a juicy pattern in place.

For work you need a skin, white acrylic paint, a plate of water, cotton pads, paper napkins, brushes, marker, patinated varnish.

1. Sand the surface;
2. Lightly dilute the paint with water and apply the first layer, brushing along;
3. The second layer, respectively, transverse strokes. Let dry;
4. Before transferring the picture to the tree, you need to lower it for half a minute in water at room temperature;
5. Take out, attach to the surface and pull out the base;
6. Remove excess moisture from the film with blotting movements;
7. Let it dry and mask the flaws with a marker.
8. Open with varnish.

Note! You can buy special napkins for decoupage. With them, the question of how to transfer a drawing to a tree will not cause any particular difficulties.

In conclusion

New opportunities wood surface, used as the basis for a painting or photograph, are unusual and evoke a lot of emotions. Familiar images look a little different than on paper - softer, more mysterious. branded expendable materials help perpetuate your work, which may outlive the paper version.

The video in this article shows an example of transferring an image to a tree.

Any questions you have about translating an image into a tree, you can ask in the comments to this article.

In this tutorial, I will show you 5 various ways wood prints. These are great methods to allow you to create custom designs such as signs, plaques, gifts, or simply brand your creations.

Step 1: Collect materials

Materials:

• pine board
• Liquitex gel medium

Step 2: Setting up

I tested 4 methods for transferring a drawing from paper to wood and one method using a technique. On each board, I used the same image, which had my logo with big block text, picture and normal size text, so for each type of application you will see how well the tree reacts with different options application.

All pictures were printed on my laser printer (not inkjet). I also mirrored the image so that it displays correctly on the tree.

Step 3: Method 1 - Acetone

The first method is to use acetone to transfer the toner to the wood. All you need is acetone paper napkin, nitrile gloves to protect your hands, you can also use an old plastic card. When working with acetone, be careful and read the safety instructions.

I put the mirrored picture on the plywood and wrapped it around for a more secure fit. Then I dipped a tissue paper in acetone and applied it to the picture, pressing it firmly on top.

After several repetitions, the toner was transferred to the wood, and the paper lagged behind the wood.

Pros: very fast, decent image quality, clean process
Cons: Image quality is average, acetone is a strong chemical

Step 4: Method 2 - ironing

The next method is to use a regular iron. All you need to do is iron the paper. As in the previous step, I wrapped the paper around the piece of wood, and then ironed it, being careful not to move the sheet relative to the wood. I tried to press hard on the iron, and the iron itself was set to a high temperature, but it seems to me that the temperature was not high enough.

The picture came out so-so, and it seems to me that this was due to the fact that the iron did not heat the paper to a sufficient temperature. I have heard that using wax paper can improve the situation, and some craftsmen transfer the image using a soldering iron with a special tip for branding.

Pros: the cheapest method, done fairly quickly
Minuses: poor quality images, the ability to burn yourself, char wood or paper

Step 5: Method 3 - Polyurethane Lacquer

The third method is based on the use of polyurethane on water based. I used Polycrylic (this is just the name of the manufacturing company, so you can buy any analogue). You need varnish, an acid brush, a hard toothbrush, and water.

I applied the polycrylic with a small brush, trying to create thin film so that it is wet, but does not become a puddle. I then pressed the paper directly onto the wet polycril and pressed the paper from the center outwards, removing any air trapped under the paper, and then moved the piece of wood to the side, where it dried for about an hour.

After the blank was dry, I moistened it with water, and then peeled as much paper as I could remove with my hands. Next I took toothbrush and gently rustled it over the surface until all the remaining paper was peeled off.

The quality turned out to be excellent! Everything except a small defect on the letter "F" looked very good. I was really surprised by this way of printing on wood.

Pros: excellent image quality, safe water-based coating
Cons: Removing paper is messy, takes an hour to dry

Step 6: Method 4 - Liquitex Gel Thinner

The fourth method was the gel solvent. I used Liquitex gloss, a foam brush, an old plastic card, a toothbrush and water.

The process is similar to the one that used varnish, the only difference is that we have a gel in our hands, not a liquid. It is better to work with the gel with foam, because the brush leaves a lot of tubercles and stripes.

I pressed the picture into the gel and removed the air that got under the paper, first with my fingers, and then with a plastic card. Then I left the blank to dry for 90 minutes, and then scraped off the paper with a toothbrush.

This option also looked great, but there were a few pieces of paper left on the tree that could not be scraped off with a brush.

Pros: excellent image quality, safe water-based gel
Cons: harder to remove than polycryl, the surface becomes rough, takes a long time to dry

Step 7: Method 5 - CNC Laser

So, now let's try the technological method. I had access to a Full Spectrum Laser Hobby 20x12 device and used it to render the same image. Setting up the device is very simple.

Image quality, as expected, was good. The only problem area was the photograph, which proved difficult for the laser to copy. But the text and logo, completely black in the photo, look great.

Pros: excellent text and logo detail, set up and the machine will do everything for you
Cons: Expensive to buy, hard to find to rent, doesn't do well with photography

Step 8: Applying the Finish Coat and Final Opinion

I decided to put on finished works lacquer coating to see how to change appearance products and this procedure slightly changed my opinion about each of the methods I tested.

The acetone got very dark after polishing and I liked the final look much more, so I place this result higher than the gel sample.

The option with an iron ... remained of poor quality.

Polycrilic darkened even more and began to look even better. This is a definite favorite in my ranking.

The gel also darkened, but the surface of the wood did not even out, and the pieces of paper that I could not remove were sticking out noticeably. To achieve a result similar to polycrylic, I had to spend a lot more time.

The version on the laser CNC almost did not darken, but became a little more like a scorched tree, the detailing was still excellent.