Ceiling framing. Lathing under plasterboard on the ceiling

Recently, the use of plastic panels has become a fashionable trend among approaches to decorating ceilings with finishing materials. This design is very popular due to its ease of installation, availability of materials and excellent results, however, the most difficult to install is the ceiling frame made of plastic panels.

PVC panels are widely used in the world of building finishing materials. Increasingly, when repairing ceilings in the bathroom, standard finishing mixtures are used, namely PVC panels.

Why do they deserve such attention and enjoy such special popularity:

Plastic panels - an affordable material, this is the most budget option for finishing the ceiling;
Installation of such panels does not require special skills and abilities;
There is no need to prepare the ceiling surface, since PVC panels are able to cover all irregularities and defects;
They are made of environmentally friendly materials, have no smell, which makes their use in residential premises safe for health.

As you can see, the plastic ceiling is a very advantageous interior design. Plastic panels have a number of positive properties, which also adds advantages in favor of their use: they are moisture resistant, not exposed to sunlight and light, easy to clean, easy to install.

The most difficult and crucial moment in the installation of such panels is the installation of a profile for the ceiling. After all, a plastic ceiling is a suspended ceiling, which is completely attached to a metal profile created and fixed to the ceiling.

Assembling a profile for a ceiling takes a lot of time and requires utmost care. Installation of the profile is a fastening around the perimeter, and then over the entire area of a bathroom or any other room, aluminum rails, on which plastic panels will then be attached using self-tapping screws.

Ceiling frame for plastic panels

Creating a frame for the ceiling is the main and most important step in the installation of a plastic ceiling.

Before starting the installation of the frame, it is necessary to purchase the basic materials and prepare the tools:

These are the aluminum rails themselves,
self-tapping screws,
hacksaw,
Perforator,
Screwdriver.

Installation of the frame begins with careful marking. A distance of 10 cm recedes from the ceiling - this is necessary for the further installation of spotlights and the laying of electrical wiring and other necessary communications. The profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the surface, fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws. Installing a profile for plastic panels must be very accurate and stable enough, since this profile will then hold the entire ceiling on itself.

How to make a crate for plastic panels on the ceiling

Installing a profile for plastic panels on the ceiling is the construction of a kind of lattice, on which the rest of the materials are attached. The crate for plastic panels is made from the same aluminum profiles as the main frame.

How to make a crate for the ceiling:

The main guides are attached around the entire perimeter, creating the main frame of the ceiling; the most commonly used profile for drywall.
The resulting rectangle inside is filled with additional guides - they are installed at a certain distance from each other on standard hangers or wooden beams.
When installing suspensions, the distance between them should be no more than 60 cm.
In addition to metal guides, wooden bars can also be used - the quality will remain the same. Most often, wooden crates are used on the balcony when lining the ceiling with clapboard.

Before starting installation, using a level, you need to clearly measure the height so that it is the same around the entire perimeter. In the middle of the rectangle obtained during the installation of the frame, the height is also aligned. To do this, you can use the tension of the nylon thread. It is very important to observe the distance when mounting the frame in order to avoid unevenness during further laying of the panels.

The installation of the main rails, as a rule, is carried out along the wall with a window so that the seams are not so visible. The supporting profiles of the frame should be installed strictly perpendicular to the plastic panels.

Ceiling lathing for plastic panels

Installing the crate on the ceiling for the further installation of plastic panels is a serious and crucial stage. To give strength to the structure and avoid bending when installing the panels themselves on the ceiling, the main guides are attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or dowels. The distance from the main ceiling is also important here - the type of fastening depends on this: with a small distance, the profile is attached to metal suspensions, but if the distance is significant, then special suspensions with knitting needles are used.

If necessary, additional L-shaped fasteners are made from profile strips - the smaller part is attached directly to the ceiling, while the long part is attached to the side surface of the profile. This creates additional support. After the assembly of the frame and battens is completed, all the necessary work on electrical wiring and installation of spotlights is carried out. In the future, this will be difficult to do.

In addition to the metal profile and guides, you can use wooden beams and a plastic profile to create a crate on the ceiling:

Wooden crate is used in rooms protected from moisture, plastic profile - in small rooms.
According to the installation method, such frames are no different from metal ones.
With a perfectly flat surface, you can mount plastic panels without using a frame directly on the ceiling itself. Such a ceiling will last for quite a long time, but it will no longer be possible to install spotlights - only a chandelier.

Installation of the ceiling lathing under the plastic panels (video)

So, the use of plastic panels for the design of modern interiors is becoming increasingly popular. The simplicity and ease of installation, the availability and variety of finishing materials make this method of finishing the ceiling very successful and promising. The result of decorating the room with plastic panels largely depends on the correct installation of the frame from metal guides. It is very important at the same time to ensure that the rails are evenly mounted to the ceiling. By following the simple rules for installing the necessary materials, you can turn the repair of the ceiling into an exciting activity, the result of which will not be slow to please you.

Plastic ceiling sheathing is a fairly common solution for decorating bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. The ceiling crate for plastic panels can also be used to install other materials - plasterboard, wooden lining, MDF panels, etc.

Marking

In order for the crate for plastic panels to meet the necessary requirements, its installation begins with marking measures:

The first step is to draw a control line along the top of all walls: this will be a guideline for the height of the ceiling space. This parameter largely depends on the type of design of the installed lighting fixtures. When using spotlights, their dimensions will have to be taken into account.
For LED lamps, a height of 4 cm will be sufficient. In all other cases, the depth of the ceiling niche will increase to 7 cm or more. As practice shows, it is best to purchase fixtures in advance, which will allow you to have information about the dimensions of their inside. 1 cm is added to the obtained parameter for heat dissipation.
Drawing a line around the perimeter begins with marking the corner sections, using a water or laser level for this purpose. Armed with a masking cord, connect the individual marks with solid lines.

Next, proceed to the marking of the base surface. If the frame will be used in the future for the installation of gypsum boards, then the distance is made at 500 mm. It is along these lines that profiles will subsequently be screwed. Lathing on the ceiling under pvc, mdf or wooden lining will require an increase in distance by 100 mm.
Upon completion of drawing the control lines under the CD profiles, it is recommended to immediately outline the installation areas for the fixtures. In the future, it will be much more difficult to do this.
If a chandelier is used according to the room design plan, its location is found by beating two diagonals from corner to corner: the point of their intersection will indicate the desired location.
Suspended structures will require the manufacture of holes and the installation of a dowel under the hook. Lighting devices on the console need additional reinforcement of the frame at the site of their installation.

Installation of hangers and UD profile

To hold the crate for plastic panels on the ceiling, suspensions and UD profiles installed along all walls are used. In some cases, elements of this type are already equipped with holes every 30 cm: if there are none, drilling is carried out independently.

Description of installation work:

Apply line markings using 300 mm increments along the perimeter.
Make holes for dowels in the wall. It is better to drill directly through the profile.
On concrete or brick walls, dowels of 60 mm and self-tapping screws 50-70 mm long are suitable for fastening. On surfaces where the plaster layer is not very strong, it is advisable to use longer screws and dowels (90 mm).
On limestone or foam blocks, you can get by with 50 mm self-tapping screws without dowels.

Installation of hangers for crates

Upon completion of the installation of UDeshek, they proceed to the installation of suspensions. We are most often talking about perforated elements of the tape type. If the height of the ceiling space is large, use wire fastenings of the crate to the ceiling under the panels. First of all, they are distributed over the base surface, using screws with dowels for fixing. In this case, it is best to give preference to screwing, rather than nailing.

The optimal distance between individual suspensions is up to 70 cm. Sometimes the ceiling surface is sheathed with plasterboard plates for further gluing ceramic tiles: in this case, the distance must be reduced to 40-50 cm.

Profile guides in this case are placed more closely. During the installation of the suspension, it is necessary to ensure that the central elongated hole coincides with the center of the markup. The antennae can be bent already after installing the CD profile inside the UD.

Mounting CD for fixing plastic panels on the ceiling

Next, you need to cut the CD profiles and insert them into the UD. The length of the segments is determined by measuring the distance between the walls, minus 5 mm. It is best to measure each CD individually, because. the distance between the walls often "floats" in different areas. It is more convenient to immediately insert each suspended profile into the UD, which will significantly simplify the construction of the ceiling sheathing under the PVC panels.

As a level, experienced craftsmen recommend using a nylon thread, pulling it at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the profiles. Tension adjustment is simplified by a self-tapping screw screwed into the UDashka. If the CD profiles are not fixed, they will begin to sag, pulling the thread. You can get out of this situation if all profiles are pulled up a little higher than the level. It is very simple to do this by bending the antennae of the middle suspension under each of them.

First of all, the last profiles are positioned according to the level. If everything is done correctly, they will be located 0.5 mm above the level. Any touch on the filament signals a plane failure. The alignment procedure for the remaining profiles is allowed to start from any place.

In this case, each bar must be raised 0.5 mm above the thread, otherwise the level will quickly go astray. It is recommended to install a pair of self-tapping screws in each ear on the suspension: this will give the crate under the plastic ceiling the proper rigidity. Otherwise, the frame may wobble due to a slight profile play in the bracket. To check, sometimes they knock on the structure from below with a fist: a rattling sound will indicate the presence of play.

Additional Options

If it is planned to decorate the ceiling surface with gypsum boards, it is allowed to use a cellular crate with square niches 60 × 60 cm.

However, experienced installers are not very fond of these designs for the following reasons:

Such cell parameters are not convenient for ceiling GKL: it has dimensions of 120 × 250 cm.
The use of such a scheme entails an increase in material consumption, which, in turn, increases the total cost of the work performed.

In cases where the frame on the ceiling under the plastic is arranged in large areas, the length of the CD (3-4 m) is not enough. Especially for this, the set of profiles includes reliable adapter connectors. To avoid sagging of the structure, the docking areas are additionally equipped with suspensions. This involves screwing self-tapping screws through the adapter and profile at the same time.

In addition to the metal profile, wood can be used to make a frame for ceiling panels. Basically, we are talking about slats with a thickness of 20-25 mm and a width of 40-50 mm. To level the wooden crate, special stands are usually used. However, this type of installation can only be carried out on well-leveled bases. Therefore, before you make a crate on a wooden ceiling, you have to screed the base floor. This increases the duration of work, because. It takes several days for the plaster layer to dry.

Outcome

Mounting frames made of galvanized CD profile have the best performance characteristics. Such structures are very durable and moisture resistant: they can be used for laying almost any panel. Cheaper wooden crates need additional treatment with antiseptic impregnations, especially if they are used in rooms with high humidity.

As for the need to prepare a rough foundation, you need to look at the circumstances. If the old finish is strong enough, it can be left on even if it doesn't look very pretty. As for the old whitewash, they are trying to remove it, because. over time, it can crumble, accumulating on the back of the panels. As a result, this increases the load on the structure and creates a real threat of dirt penetration into the room.

Finishing materials for the ceiling are presented in a wide variety, so it is not difficult to choose the preferred option. For this, be guided by your own preferences, interior style and requirements for quality and reliability indicators. One of the popular options is PVC panels.

They are distinguished by their versatility and ease of use, including for wall surfaces. The installation process is simple, so each person can do it with their own hands, starting with the creation of the frame. The main thing is to create a strong crate for the construction of PVC panels. It will guarantee that the ceiling structure will turn out to be reliable and durable.

Attention! Pay attention to all the details when creating a structure that acts as a frame, strictly following the instructions on the video, which will show the steps of the process.

What is a crate or frame?

The crate is the basis of the structure. It implies the ability to mount panels on the ceiling and walls of the premises. Frames are made from various materials, including plastic.

Among the advantages of this option are the following:

Resistant to temperature extremes.
Easy to mount on any surface, including walls.
Moisture resistance.
The ability to use repeatedly, saving money.
Deformation resistance.

Frames are made from other materials. Among them, metal profiles or wooden slats are distinguished. The tree is not resistant to moisture, temperature extremes, which will negatively affect the operation of the crate for walls and ceilings. The result is visible deformation. The metal construction is not always suitable for PVC, as it becomes too heavy an option.

When compared with these materials, the PVC frame has advantages. Among them, simplicity and efficiency of installation are distinguished, including for the surface of walls. The panels are easily attached to each other, eliminating the formation of gaps or cracks. Additionally, clips are used that provide a secure fit to the wall or surface.

Another positive feature is resistance to mold and fungus. Plastic structures are fireproof, easily tolerate moisture and dampness, which cannot be said about wooden or metal counterparts. If required, a plastic frame is used as a cable to organize the wiring.

What will be useful in the creation process?

You can create it with your own hands. This process is simple, and every home probably has the tools that will be required for this. If desired, you can call a team of experienced craftsmen who will quickly cope with the task assigned to them. But self-fulfillment will give reason to be proud of your own success.

Prepare the following tools:

Screwdriver.
Drill.
Roulette or ruler.
Building level, the best choice is the water option.
Hacksaw.

This is enough to create a PVC frame. Despite the fact that the cost will be more expensive than that of wood, the result will pleasantly surprise you. You do not have to use antiseptics, and the installation itself is based on the use of special clip-fasteners, which facilitates the process.

Remember that decorative elements are attached to the plastic frame in a perpendicular position relative to the structural elements. Compliance with this simple recommendation guarantees the quality of fastening and the absence of problems later.

Construction installation steps

In order for the fastening of the PVC crate to be successful, follow the recommendations of professionals. The first thing they pay attention to is the distance between the slats. This is true for both ceilings and walls. The optimal distance is a step of 30 cm. The PVC slats themselves are placed in a perpendicular position to the panels. In other words, if the panels are mounted in a vertical position, the rails are fastened horizontally and in reverse order.

Markup is important. It is carried out at the initial stage. Without this, a high-quality frame for the ceiling or walls cannot be created. If you find it difficult to markup yourself, watch the video. It will introduce you to the details of the marking process for the ceiling and walls.

The frame is fixed around the perimeter of the room, for this, the length of the walls is measured, finding the lowest angle, a horizontal line is drawn from it, along which the frame is mounted. Panels made of PVC material are joined together by means of a hacksaw and a miter box. These tools will allow you to get a good cut on the panels with minimal dimensions. The material is fastened every 25-30 cm.

You can make this process easier if you wish. To do this, pull the fishing line along the marking line. This facilitates installation and reduces the chance of error.

If you have been able to appreciate the advantages of PVC battens and cladding of the ceiling and walls with plastic panels, carefully prepare for the installation process. Please watch the video to follow the steps correctly. It will allow you to understand the intricacies of the process of creating a ceiling, and avoid common mistakes. Video is the best assistant that guarantees the correct execution of the cladding.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 6 minutes

Finishing the ceiling with drywall can serve several purposes at once. This is the leveling of the surface, and the masking of various elements of communications, and the construction of complex multi-level structures. Insulation, sound insulation, lighting elements can be placed in the space above the plasterboard. But to create a strong and durable structure, it is necessary to correctly make a frame for drywall on the ceiling.

Wooden or metal?

There are several options for the implementation of the crate for mounting the GKL on the ceiling.

It can be made from wood or metal. The main advantages of a wooden frame are environmental friendliness, availability of material and ease of assembly. But there are also many disadvantages:

As a rule, such a frame is used only with a flat base surface. Aligning walls or ceilings with it is a real torment.
Before assembly, all structural elements must be carefully treated with an antiseptic solution. Otherwise, a long service life cannot be guaranteed.
Wooden crate is not used in rooms where humidity exceeds 12%. At high rates, structural elements will swell and warp.
During installation, it is required to leave gaps between the wall and the bars, compensating for the displacement of the geometry of the latter under the influence of temperature and moisture.
A wooden frame is considered less durable than a metal profile structure.

The metal frame is devoid of these shortcomings. It is resistant to the influence of the external environment and microorganisms, durable and practical. With minimal building skills and the necessary tools, it is easy to assemble it yourself. Mounting a frame from a profile will require careful calculation of the necessary material and various auxiliary elements: suspensions, crabs, connectors.

Ceiling frame types

The crate is of two types:

Cellular, when load-bearing profiles or beams create a kind of lattice (see the next photo). As a rule, it is used in most cases of leveling the ceiling with drywall.

Transverse. Profiles or slats are located only in one direction, and the GKL is attached to them across. This method is usually used by experienced craftsmen.

There are also single-level and multi-level structures. The ceiling in two or more tiers is rather complicated in calculation and installation, but all costs are more than paid off by the original appearance. To develop projects of such structures, it is better to resort to the help of a professional designer.

Necessary materials and tools

Since metal profile frames are most often used to align ceilings, we will list everything that is required for their installation.

From the tools you need to prepare:

Levels. Bubble will also work, but laser is better. It makes no sense to buy it on purpose, if there are no plans to professionally engage in repair work. It is better to borrow from friends or rent. The hydraulic level is easy to do with your own hands.
Perforator for making holes in the wall for dowels, on which the profiles will be attached.
Drill and drill bits for metal.
Screwdriver.
Hammer, metal shears and tape measure.

It is convenient to use to connect profiles to each other. It provides a better fastening than small metal screws (they are also called "fleas", "bugs" or "seeds").

From the materials you will need:

Profiles - carriers and guides. Fasteners:, self-tapping screws for metal, dowel-nails.

A correctly drawn frame diagram will help determine the exact amount of material.

Charting

Depending on what type of frame is selected, the necessary measurements are taken. Then a diagram is drawn on a sheet of paper, taking into account the features of the chosen design.

For a honeycomb frame:

The length of each wall is measured. It is for each, since often opposite walls in apartments do not match in size.
The distance from floor to ceiling is measured at the corners of the room and in its center.
From the lowest point of the ceiling, the thickness of the suspended structure is laid off. It depends on what will fit in the space between the base surface and drywall. It can be insulation, sound insulation, lighting elements, wiring or other communications. The minimum distance between the ceiling and drywall is 50 mm.

The layout of the bearing profiles and crossbars is drawn. In this case, it is necessary to choose the optimal step so that the sheets must be joined on the profile. Usually the step is 60 cm.
The result is a grid with cells of the same size. On it it is necessary to designate the attachment points of the suspensions with a step of 30-40 cm.
It would be useful to draw on the diagram of all communications and the location of fixtures.

For the cross frame:

The height of the structure is selected according to the same principle.
The step of the bearing profiles is 0.5 meters.
The locations of the suspensions are determined in the same way as for the cellular frame.

For multilevel structures, there is no clear algorithm. The order of work depends on the number of levels, the location of the boxes and other features of the design ceiling. But the general principles for placing fasteners remain the same.

Preparatory work, transferring the scheme to the ceiling

Preliminary preparation consists in the elimination of the old coating. All elements are removed, the strength of which is in doubt. Large cracks are sealed with cement, and then puttied.

At this stage, you also need to get rid of stains of fungus or mold, if any. It is better to treat the entire base surface of the ceiling with an antiseptic to prevent their occurrence in the future.

After preparing the base, you can proceed to the markup according to a pre-compiled scheme. It is convenient to carry it out with a chopping cord or paint thread. The scheme drawn on paper is transferred to the walls and ceiling. Not only the position of the profiles is noted, but also the attachment points of the suspensions.

Frame installation

Work order:

In the guides, holes are pre-drilled for dowel-nails with the intended pitch (sometimes they are made at the manufacturing stage by the manufacturer).
A damper tape is glued to the side adjacent to the wall. It is needed so that sound vibrations are not transmitted from the wall to the frame.
The rails are attached to the wall. The bottom edge of the profile must match the line on the wall.
Hangers are being installed. The step between them is 60 cm. If the frame is of a cellular type, they should fall between the jumpers.
The carrier profiles must be cut by about a centimeter. This is necessary so that the structure does not deform with the possible expansion of the metal under the influence of temperature.
The installation of the profile begins from the place where it is paired with the guides. For fixing, self-tapping screws for metal are used.
Having aligned the carrier rails with a level, attach them to the suspensions. All profiles must be strictly in the same plane.
If the structure consists of cells, crossbars are attached. It is preferable to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. The joints are reinforced with crabs.

USEFUL INFORMATION: How to level the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands (video)

This article discusses the issue of leveling the supporting structure under the ceiling sheathing. On the ceiling, the battens can be parallel or perpendicular to the window. Accordingly, the sheathing itself, whether it be lining, planken or some other wooden panels, will be installed perpendicular to the bars during installation. So it is more convenient to work. Everything is determined by the effect that needs to be achieved by the sheathing - to lengthen or expand the room. The visual lengthening of the room is achieved by placing the panels perpendicular to the window, and the expansion is parallel.

Separately, we will talk about the choice of a bar.

1. Choice of materials.

1.1. Bar selection.

A bar is used as a supporting structure for the ceiling sheathing. Such a bar can have a section of 20*30, 25*40, 30*40, 40*40, 45*45 and 50*50 mm and others.

Council number 1. You can not save and you have to buy dry! planed! smooth! bar. Such a bar will not lead and it is easier to attach the skin to it.

Council number 2. It is considered correct to choose a bar not of a rectangular, but of a square section. It is more convenient to work with a square section bar because it can always be turned over and positioned to the skin with the most even side. The choice of a rectangular bar should be treated with the utmost care.

The length of a dry planed bar is usually 2, 2.5 or 3 meters. Perhaps the length of the bar will not be enough and it will need to be increased.

Council number 3. The amount of bar should be bought a little more than necessary and bought by the piece, and not by running meters. Not knowing how long the bar will be in the store, calculate in advance how many pieces you need to buy a 3-meter bar or a 2.5-meter one. In general, measure seven times - cut one.

1.2. Choice of screws.

Self-tapping screws are needed - for wood and a certain size. The threadless part of the self-tapping screw must be greater than the thickness of the bar. The diameter of the self-tapping screw for mounting the crate must be more than 5.0 mm.

1.3. Calibrated mounting pads - spacers. In principle, on the ceiling, it doesn’t matter which A or B spacers to use: A-spacers are more convenient, and B-spacers are somewhat cheaper. Spacers are sold in sets of 50 (A) and 60 (B) pieces, respectively. If we use B-spacers, then they should be located on both sides of the self-tapping screw.

2. The order of work.

2.1. Bar preparation.

In advance, on the floor, we trim the bar along the length, bait the screws. It is possible to use self-tapping screws of smaller length, but larger diameter. For reliable clamping of the bar with a shorter self-tapping screw, it will be necessary to make a hole in the bar with a diameter greater than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

2.2. Alignment of the bar on the ceiling.

It is convenient to use a laser level, although you can use the old-fashioned way - a long level.

The work is done in pairs.

In our example, the work was performed as follows.

A draft bar was installed on the floor beams without alignment with a step of 0.5 meters. On the draft bar, the second row of the bar was installed with alignment with B-spacers. In the process of work, a lot of extra time was spent on mounting the crate due to low-quality black self-tapping screws: curves, the slot was poorly punched and cut off, the head flew off.

We recommend using high-quality galvanized wood screws with a TORX slot from our catalog. All self-tapping screws for wood undergo additional anti-friction treatment with silicone grease, which reduces the effort during their installation by 30%.

2.3. The bars were aligned with the level with an accuracy of 1 mm. In the process of alignment, the required thickness of the sandwich was selected from B-spacers, as can be seen in the photo. Almost all the spacers from the set were used, since it is very easy to select them.