Oil paints are diluted to a working consistency. Thinners for oil paints
Construction oil paints are thickly ground or ready-to-use. Thickened paints must be diluted with a specially designed liquid - a solvent. Also, oil paints are mixed with a solvent if they have dried over time, or they are planned to be used as a primer. Thinners are selected in accordance with the characteristics of the surface to be painted and its absorbent properties.
Dilute oil paint with chemicals that you will always find in construction stores:- White spirit is the most common liquid.
- Refined and unrefined turpentine is used to dilute many paints and varnishes. With purified turpentine, the drying time of the paint decreases, with uncleaned - on the contrary, it slows down.
- Kerosene is great for restoring old oil paints. Together with kerosene, it is mandatory to add a desiccant - turpentine, for example. The disadvantage of this thinner is an increase in drying time - up to 10 days.
- Gasoline: with its use, the paint becomes matte. This option is used in construction to dilute thickly grated paint and varnish coatings.
- On a combined or composite drying oil, the manufacture of which is not regulated by state standards. Such a coating is unsafe for use in houses and apartments: in its composition it contains harmful and toxic substances that continue to emit bad smell long time after drying. Designated as MA-025.
- Natural drying oil based on vegetable oils - linseed, soybean or sunflower. Contains 97% natural ingredients and 3% desiccant. Such paint is marked as MA-021. Paints based on natural drying oil are used for painting surfaces in residential premises: walls, windows, doors, etc.
- Artificial glyptal drying oil, a substitute for natural. On the packages it is designated as GF-023.
- On pentaphthalic drying oil - PF-024, which half consists of natural oils with the addition of glycerin, desiccant and phthalic anhydride.
The applied oil paints are not only decorative, they protect surfaces from moisture, corrosion and rotting processes, and also serve as a barrier to external influences. Diluted oil paint is successfully used as a primer base, which will serve as a binder.
Probably, everyone can recall a similar case for themselves, that during the repair period, more than once, due to their own inattention, they forgot to close the can of paint, from which the material, to great disappointment, froze and was no longer suitable for use. The following are examples of possible paint thinners to help you salvage hardened paint, or simply thin new paint.
Oil paints, by themselves, can be both thickly rubbed and immediately have the consistency required for their application. Paints, conditionally called "thick", in this form are used extremely rarely, most often they are diluted with a solvent. Also, already dried paints or those that are planned to be used as a primer are diluted with this specific liquid.
The type of solvent for the paint is determined according to the properties of the material on which the paint will be applied.
Oil paint is easily diluted with many chemicals that are extremely easy to purchase at hardware stores. Examples include the following solvents: turpentine (purified or not), gasoline, solvent 647 kerosene (only with the addition of a desiccant), white alcohol. However, white spirit, thinner 647 and turpentine are by far the most widely used types of solvents.
The scope of the same white spirit is extremely large. It is in serious competition with turpentine, whose sales turnover fell after white spirit appeared on the markets.
White spirit for oil paints is used in such cases:
- For obtaining organodispersions when diluting paint and varnish coatings.
- For the purpose of breeding varnishes, primers, drying oils, enamels, car preservatives, etc.
- It is used for washing brushes after work is completed.
- In order to degrease the surface, if this kind of problem suddenly arises.
- Can be used as a solvent for rubber or alkyds.
Such a solvent is extremely popular due to its availability, because its price is quite acceptable, even considering its wide range of applications.
When using white alcohol, the cost of paint or another type paintwork significantly reduced, but the quality of painting remains unchanged.
If desired, it is even possible to find a type of white spirit that does not have a pungent odor characteristic of it.
Rules for using white spirit for oil paints:
- You should not forget about safety precautions, so you should avoid finding solvents near any sources of open fire or knife switches. It is also worth paying attention in advance to the fact that solvents of some compositions can ignite spontaneously under the influence of temperatures.
- You also need to pay attention to the rather pungent smell of the substance. Therefore, it is necessary to dilute the paint only in well-ventilated areas or even in the open air.
- Due to the chemical composition of solvents, they should not be allowed to come into contact with the skin or mucous membranes. Otherwise, immediately rinse the site of contact with water. Clothing can also be damaged by exposure to a strong chemical.
Turpentine on this moment is a popular paint thinner. In addition, it is used in the production of rosin, as well as dammar. It can also be found in copal-based polishes. The composition of turpentine is complex, and in itself it is like essential oil.
Types of turpentine for oil paints:
- Pneumatic turpentine. It is made mainly from the bark of coniferous trees, as well as stumps.
- Wood turpentine. In the manufacture of used branches and bark of trees, which contains resin. In his original form, similar turpentine is a brownish liquid that disappears immediately after repeated processing.
- Turpentine turpentine. This type of solvent can only be compared with real essential oil, as it is obtained by distillation of resin and resinous materials of various types of coniferous trees. Valuable properties This oil is not lost even after its secondary processing, which is its undoubted advantage.
Solvent 647 is a fairly strong colorless chemical that tends to ignite easily and also exudes a sharp unpleasant odor, which is quite typical for this type of solvent. Often this liquid is used to dilute alkyd enamels and pentaflatein enamels. They often dilute varnishes or putty. The solvent is pre-degreased surfaces that need to be painted. Various industrial tools and parts are also washed with this liquid, and in addition, solvent 647 is used to clean contaminated fabric.
When diluting the paint, one should be extremely careful in its solvent ratio, since the paint can easily be spoiled if the wrong amount of solvent is used. In a diluted form, the paint is used for better penetration into the surface material. A mixture of paint with a solvent is also used as a primer.
Mix it well for 10-20 minutes until smooth.
Table. Physical and chemical indicators of the solvent 647.
Today, drying oil is considered a universal solvent. It is also part of the paint, thanks to it, when the paint is applied to the surface, a thin film is formed.
The type of drying oil that should be used depends directly on what type of drying oil is contained in the composition of the paint itself. In addition, all oil paints are classified and its other components, it may include various pigmenting substances and fillers. If the composition of the paint includes only one component, then the name of the paint is given precisely by the name of this very component.
The name may also contain the number 2, which means that the paintwork material is applicable to all surfaces if the paint is diluted with the same drying oil that is included in its composition.
For paint types of drying oil there is also a special classification:
MA-0.25. Indicated on the packaging. Such a mark indicates that the paint contains harmful toxic substances that can have an adverse effect on health, as well as exude a characteristic odor for a long time after the coating has dried.
MA-0.21. Paints based on natural drying oil. In percentage: 96% natural oils (soybean, sunflower, flax oils) and 4% desiccants. It is mainly used for painting walls, windows, doors, both outside and inside the room.
GF-0.23. Haliftal drying oil - a substitute for natural.
PF-0.24. This is how the pentaphthalic drying oil is marked. It contains a desiccant or glycerin. 50% natural materials.
In accordance with the standards, the packaging should indicate which solvents should be used with this type of paint, as well as its consumption per 1 square meter when applied in 1-2 layers.
Oil paints are the most durable and long-lasting coating among other paints and varnishes.
They are great for applying to plaster, metal, concrete and wood. Also, this coating protects the surface from such harmful phenomena as corrosion, rotting, protects against excess moisture. In addition, this type of paintwork is also used as a primer base and has a decorative value. They are brighter, and, of course, can be used not only for painting the walls outside the house, but also inside it.
They are indispensable for creative individuals, because this is how, often, masterpieces of fine art are created. So another plus in favor of oil paints can be considered their prevalence and applicability in absolutely different areas life.
Before you decide on the choice of how it would be better to dilute the paint, you need to decide for yourself what exactly you should buy. Maybe a solvent, maybe a diluent. Solvents are best used in cases where the paint simply froze and dried. After adding it, you need to wait a while, from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours, so that the paint acquires the consistency you need. Then you can work with the material without problems. And in the case when the paint has thickened, it is better to use a thinner. With it, you will also give the paint the desired consistency, since such substances reduce the viscosity of the paintwork composition.
related materials
Water-repellent additives
An urgent problem when using concrete and brick is their waterproofing coating. This is due to the destructive effect of moisture on building objects and materials. Changes in air humidity, increased or decreased content of water and its vapors in environment can lead to a number of undesirable consequences.
The issue of removing oil paint today is of great relevance, since this kind of problem occurs in almost every case. cosmetic repairs. An activity like removing paint can either be a matter of ten minutes for you, or it will appear to you more like a curse, taking hours of precious time, effort, and often money from you. Removing oil paint from walls is the most time-consuming process, and especially in cases where the paint is applied over plaster or concrete. However, if you nevertheless decided on a new painting, then the simplest, and therefore popular methods for removing oil paint from surfaces will be given and considered below.
Each artist has his own unique technique that allows him to create real works of art. However, in order to transfer all your thoughts and creative ideas on paper, you need to pick correct paints. After all, it is not only a matter of harmonious combination colors. It is important to find paints and varnishes that allow you to save your work for many years.
Oil paint thinners are mainly used to dilute (dilute) oil paints, although the manufacturers write that they can also be used to wash brushes, clean the palette, which in my opinion is just wasteful. The palette can be washed with cheaper thinners bought at the hardware store, and the brushes are completely simple. laundry soap with warm water. The main thing is not to let them dry out - they finished working, immediately washed them. However, in this matter the artist himself decides how to wash his favorite brushes.
I am a fan of the St. Petersburg plant of artistic paints "Nevskaya Palitra" (hereinafter simply "ZHK"), whose paints I found the best among domestic ones, and therefore I mainly use thinners from its production. But sometimes I also buy some diluents from a Novosibirsk manufacturer, Experimental Workshop of Arts Technologies LLC (hereinafter simply EMTI).
I want to warn you: I'm talking about thinners, not solvents. At first glance, there is no difference between them - they both thin the paint. However, the thinner simply reduces the viscosity of the paint without disturbing its structure, and after drying it evaporates, leaving the paint in its native form. Simply put, thinner just makes it easier to "smear" the paint, but otherwise it doesn't make any difference if you use thinner or not. By the way, now I almost don’t use thinners, although before they left me with bubbles.
But the solvent interferes with the structure of the paint, dissolving its film-forming substances, that is, oil, and after it dries, you get a modified paint, the properties of which can differ dramatically from those declared. For example, it can delaminate, crumble. In addition, the thinner is able to dissolve the already dried layer of paint, on top of which you apply a new layer of thinner. So instead of, say, glazing, you will, roughly speaking, get a “wet” painting, as a result of which the glazing paint will mix with the base paint and change both its color and the color of the base, guaranteeing you an unpredictable and, most likely, deplorable result.
Unfortunately, no thinner is a thinner in the pure sense of the word: it does not dissolve some substances, but dissolves others. Therefore, the less diluent and the less often you use it, the better. And in no case do not use a "thinner" bought not in an art store, but, for example, in a pharmacy. Even if it is called similarly and has the same composition, you are still buying a pig in a poke. And one more thing - try to use thinners exclusively from the same manufacturer as the paint being thinned. This will most likely save you from problems, although, for example, the same ZKH warns in its catalog: “ Thinners for oil paints are a group of products, the use of which requires special knowledge.».
I won't go into Chemical properties thinners, but I will simply give thinners for oil paints from the above manufacturers, which I have tried and which can be bought at any art supply store. Let me emphasize again: at an art supply store, not at a hardware store, pharmacy, or whatever!
Thinner No. 1 (ZHK)
This thinner consists of a mixture of turpentine and white spirit (turpentine is a product of pine resin processing, white spirit is a product of oil processing) in a ratio of 1: 1.
If you need to work with the paint “wet” longer, then most likely this thinner is what you need. The annotation to it says, "when added to oil paint, it reduces its concentration, makes the paint less saturated and increases the drying time."
It is not suitable for diluting varnish and for cleaning the surface from varnish, but it perfectly cleans the palette and brushes from oil paint.
Thinner No. 2 (ZHK)
This thinner is pure white spirit, a product of petroleum refining. Suitable for diluting oil paints, cleaning the surface, brushes and palette from oil paint. It should be used with caution - it has a high penetrating ability and can seep to the back of the canvas through microcracks in the soil.
Excessive dilution of paints with it can make the paint layer loose and fragile, which can lead to shedding. It is not suitable for diluting varnishes and cleaning the surface and brushes from varnish, because it has a low dissolving power.
Please note that when diluting paints with both a mixture of white spirit with turpentine (thinner No. 1) and pure white spirit (thinner No. 2), the paint layer darkens over time. The same applies to the gum turpentine produced by EMTI mentioned below. Therefore, I recommend using pinene (Thinner #4) instead.
Diluent "Tee" (ZHK)
It is often referred to as thinner No. 3. A mixture of dammar varnish, linseed oil and turpentine. Gives shine and bright saturated tones. The thinner is used to dilute oil paints, as well as an intermediate layer to enhance the adhesion of paint layers. Do not use for cleaning surfaces and brushes.
Each component of this diluent is itself a diluent. In addition, since linseed oil can cause shrinkage of the paint layer, especially the intermediate layer, many artists use not a “tee”, but the so-called “double”, which is not available in its pure form. This is a dammar varnish mixed with a thinner, such as pinene (thinner No. 4).
Thinner No. 4, p inen (ZHK)
Pinene got its name from the Latin name for pine - Pinus. Pinene is a component of turpentine and is obtained by cleaning gum turpentine from resinous substances.
Pinene oxidizes much less than turpentine, which is not recommended for use in painting due to its tendency to yellow and gum. Pinene is almost not resinous and does not turn yellow.
It dilutes both paints and varnishes well. It evaporates faster than thinner No. 2 (white spirit). Pinene reduces the gloss of paints, so some care must be taken when using it.
Thinner low-smelling (Sonnet)
Well-purified white spirit. Makes colors more transparent, allowing you to get smooth transitions tones. Improves the fluidity of paints and the adhesion of paint layers. Dries quickly, does not turn yellow.
It is used for diluting oil paints, washing off paints from canvases, washing brushes and palettes. Does not thin varnishes.
Note that the absence of an odor does not make this thinner less toxic than Thinner #2, which has a rather strong odor.
Thinner for artistic oil paints (ZHK)
A mixture of bleached refined linseed oil and white spirit with the addition of a desiccant. Makes colors more transparent and less saturated, allowing you to get smooth transitions of tones.
Reduces the drying time of oil paints.
It can be used as a cleaner for brushes, oil paint palettes. Although, as I said, it is better to use cheaper solvents for this.
Oil thinner (EMTI)
It is similar to the previous thinner for art paints produced by ZKH Nevskaya Palitra.
That is, this is the same mixture of bleached refined linseed oil and white spirit with the addition of cobalt desiccant.
It is used to dilute quick-drying oil paints. Increases the drying time of paints both on the palette and on the canvas, allowing the artist to work longer "wet".
Gum turpentine (EMTI)
Yellowish liquid with a characteristic pine odour. It is obtained by distillation of resin (resin of coniferous trees) with the help of water vapor. Pine resin contains up to 30% turpentine. Gum turpentine is completely natural product, so to speak "juice" of a pine tree. In the light and in the presence of air, it resins, turning into a thick yellow mass, so it should be stored in a well-closed vial and in a dark place.
It is used as a solvent and thinner for oil and alkyd artistic paints, as well as varnishes. In addition, it cleans brushes and palette well.
Linseed oil refined bleached (ZHK)
Used to dilute oil paints. For its manufacture at the factory, only natural cold-pressed polymerized oil is used. In addition, during its production, the quality of oil production is carefully ensured at all stages of its preparation: pressing, evaporation, bleaching, filtration.
The addition of linseed oil to the paint has great advantages: the paint has a significantly improved spreadability, adhesion to the blank and the underlying layers of paint. Also, the paint becomes less concentrated, more transparent, bright, shiny.
Slows down the drying time of the ink film. The artist can work "raw" for longer, create glazes.
Linseed oil compacted No. 2 (ZHK)
It is used in oil painting as a paint thinner.
The film of this oil is more moisture resistant and less prone to yellowing than the above linseed refined bleached oil.
Lacquer Dammar (ZHK)
It consists of a solution of dammar resin in pinene or turpentine. Completely natural product.
It is a painter's varnish used as a thinner for oil paints, but many artists also use it as a topcoat for finished work. It is also used for fixing intermediate layers and for wiping intermediate layers in layer-by-layer painting, i.e. as a retouch varnish.
Dammar varnish may become cloudy during storage, but after drying (evaporation of pinene), it restores its purity. In addition, during storage, it can thicken, but is easily diluted with pinene.
A painting covered with dammar varnish may darken and turn yellow over time, so it is better to use acrylic-styrene varnish for this purpose, which is also produced by ZHK.
fir varnish (ZHK)
It consists of a solution of fir resin in pinene or turpentine.
Unlike dammar varnish, this varnish cannot be used as a finishing varnish, since its film dissolves easily even after complete drying.
Therefore, fir varnish is used exclusively for diluting oil paints or is applied to intermediate layers of paint to prevent paint from drying out and enhance the adhesion of paint layers. When added to paint, fir varnish prevents wrinkling and tarnishing, maintaining the brightness and purity of the original color and enhancing the depth of tones.
Well, that's all it seems...
Disclaimer: I do not presume to judge imported thinners. By their properties, they are basically similar to domestic ones. In some ways they are (perhaps) better, and in some ways even worse. I'm not talking about possible fakes. If you are a “western fan”, then you can use them, but I will not advise you on this. There are so many foreign brands of thinners and their manufacturers that it would take a whole book and many months of experiments to describe them. So see for yourself.
Just try different thinners (according to what I wrote and what you need) until you find your own. By the way, this also applies to domestic diluents. A universal, ideal diluent simply does not exist. You must find your pet yourself. For me, pinene became such a favorite - thinner No. 4 of the Nevsky Palette. There is a diluent with the same number and the same name at EMTI, but I do not presume to judge it.
And again I repeat: I usually use thinner only in the first layers of painting, when I do classical imprimatur. In subsequent steps, I add thinner to the paint only occasionally, because I think that good paint in its factory form it already has an optimal consistency (viscosity) and does not need to be diluted. You just need to move the paint a little longer with a brush to get exactly the same result as with a thinner.
Unless, of course, you are painting something expressionistic, flowing from the canvas, as in the next video. :)
My advice does not apply to such "artists" ...
And to the rest, I wish success in mastering this important, but very capricious component.
Tatyana Kazakova
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For most people, at some point there comes a time when they are faced with the need to use oil paint for some purpose. But due to the fact that part of it remains unclaimed after use for a long time, the paint thickens or dries out. In such a situation, it can be diluted to a working state.
Varieties of oil paints
According to their purpose, they are conditionally divided into two groups:
- Construction oil solutions. They, in turn, are divided into thick-grated and ready-made. Thickened solutions are subject to mandatory dilution with solvents intended specifically for these mixtures. Ready formulations are diluted with solvents only in case of thickening and when a liquid consistency of the solution is required.
- Artistic varieties of oil paints. They are mainly used for drawing both professional and amateur. They also produce art paintings various interior compositions. To dilute such solutions, special diluents are required.
Construction
artistic
Below are the solvents used for a group of building oil mixtures.
Drying oil
It is the main component in the manufacture of oil paints, and is also a universal solvent for all jobs where it is used. Because these materials contain a high percentage of drying oil, a thin film is obtained when stained on the surface.
You should pay attention to what kind of drying oil is present in their composition. Information about this can be read on a can of paint - it is this type of drying oil that must be added for dilution.
Exist generally accepted standards, according to which oil paints are classified. In addition to drying oil, the compositions include certain fillers and various pigmenting components. For mixtures that have a single component, the name corresponds to this component, for example, ocher.
Possibility of using paints various surfaces marked with the number 2 if the same brand of drying oil was used for breeding as in its production. Oil blends are also classified according to different types drying oils, taking into account the basis on which they were made.
- Combined (composite) drying oil. Not applicable to its production. state standards. In this regard, the composition of such drying oil includes toxic components. It is not recommended to use paint produced on the basis of this drying oil in rooms where people or animals live, as the unpleasant smell persists. long time after the composition has dried. Such a mixture is marked with the abbreviation MA-025.
- Natural drying oil. The production of natural drying oil is based on vegetable oils (up to 97%) and about 3% remains for the addition of a desiccant. It is customary to paint everything with paint made on the basis of this drying oil. necessary surfaces inside residential buildings. The marking of this coloring composition is MA-021.
- In the form of a substitute for the natural composition, artificial glyptal drying oil. Marking - GF-023.
- Pentaphthalic. It has a composition that includes natural oils, glycerin, desiccant, as well as phthalic anhydride. The marking of drying oil with this composition is PF-024.
Composite drying oil
natural drying oil
Pentaphthalic
glyptal
In accordance with the requirements of GOST, the packages of all types of paint and varnish products indicate which solvents can be used for each type and their required proportions. A prerequisite is also an indication of the required consumption of the mixture per 1 sq. m.
Turpentine
Such a composition is very popular as a thinner. There are two varieties of turpentine, which are used in the work. These include wood and turpentine turpentine.
Wood is made from wood components containing resin. Initially, the solution is dark in color, after a certain processing it acquires a transparent shade. When distilling resin conifers receive turpentine turpentine. It has many properties that are used in various fields, in addition to dissolution.
By diluting paints with a similar solvent, you can achieve faster drying of painted surfaces. But the disadvantage of using such a composition is a specific smell, as a result of which work should be done with active ventilation.
White Spirit
They can replace turpentine. The availability of this tool determines its popularity. Varieties of white spirit without a pungent odor are also produced. In application, this liquid is very convenient due to slow evaporation, work can be done slowly, with great care. positive quality it is also the fact that the color of the mixture does not change with the introduction of white spirit.
Solvent
To dilute oil paints, a solvent number 647 is used. There may be other designations - it depends on the components from which the composition is made. But you should not use products that contain acetone.
Dilute oil mixtures with a solvent should be carefully, as too a large number of liquids can lead to deterioration of the quality of the paint.
Gasoline and kerosene
Used for dilution if there are no other solvents and only for outdoor use. A specific smell is the predominant disadvantage - it can cause dizziness and even possible poisoning. But in hopeless cases of thickening of the material, it is recommended to use kerosene for its dilution - for this you must first mix it with desiccant or turpentine.
The use of kerosene increases the drying time of painted surfaces.
Dilution order
Compliance with the order of dilution for a qualitative result is very important. The order of such a process is given below.
First you need to open the jar, evaluate the density, mix thoroughly with an improvised tool.
Carefully determine the required proportion, which depends on the type of solvent used and the thickness of the paint. The injected liquid, in order to avoid deterioration in quality, should not exceed 5% of the total mass. But if the mixture is planned to be used as a primer, then the volume of the solvent can be increased to 10%.
To achieve the required quality, the diluent is added directly to the jar, little by little and thoroughly stirred after each addition.
You can use the prepared mixture if the paint begins to thicken during the staining process. It is brought to the desired consistency by adding required amount solvent.
If the mixture remains open and a characteristic film has formed on the surface, then it should be carefully removed, since the hard conglomerates formed when the paint is mixed with the film cannot be dissolved, and it will be very problematic to remove them.
Then you need to add a little kerosene, which is pre-mixed with white spirit. After that, the mixture is thoroughly mixed and the prepared solvent is added as necessary, until the desired result is achieved.
Breeding oil art paints
Their use is predominantly common for creating highly artistic design works, painting and other creative moments. Artistic paints are distinguished by a dense structure, wide colors, considerable ease of mixing, and when correcting errors, no great difficulties are experienced.
Diluted mixtures are widely used by artists, but dry out rather quickly, as a result of which they are regularly diluted.
It should be borne in mind that a large amount of thinner increases the drying time, since the oil does not have the ability to evaporate.
Applicable types of thinners
There are several groups of popular diluents used professional artists. These include compositions made on the basis of vegetable oils, varnishes, as well as twins, tees and pinene.
- Butter. Common vegetable oils various origins, such as linen, poppy, sunflower, hemp, have long been used by artists to dilute paints.
- Lacquers are made on the basis of diluted resins. When they are used as a thinner, the paint structure is compacted, which contributes to better adhesion to the canvas. Special varnishes are made to be added to thinners to dilute oil paints.
- Double and triple. Judging by the name, a twin is a diluent containing two components in its composition. These components are varnish, as well as vegetable oils, composed in proportions that artists often choose on their own. In the tee, a diluent is added to the above components.
- Pinen. Otherwise, it is called "thinner No. 4". It is used to dissolve and dilute formulations.
Pinen
In painting, as well as construction, an important role is played by a thinner for oil paints. Suitable for watercolor or gouache plain water. Some paints do not need to be diluted at all. But for oil enamels, additional special compositions are needed. They have different properties and functions.
Why do we need solvents for oil paints?
Artists have a special water-soluble oil paint, but it is not suitable for construction. Why is it necessary to dilute ready-made formulations? The basis of oil paint is a pigment that is mixed with drying oil. If the enamel is not used for a long time, then the harder particles settle and the oil layer remains on top.
Before use, the jar must be shaken thoroughly. Sometimes it is necessary to make the paint more liquid or wash out the thickened one. In this case, solvents are used. But you need to take into account the fact that the compositions of oily enamels are different. Each uses a certain type of drying oil, which acts as a solvent.
Choice of solvents
Paints are divided into two types, used indoors and for external works. This separation comes from the fact that some compounds have a strong odor due to toxicity. There are several types of drying oil:
- Natural - made from soy, linseed or hemp oil. Such drying oil is marked MA-021. Oily enamels based on it are suitable for painting doors, windows and other interior parts of premises, excluding the ceiling and floor. Application to these surfaces disrupts the air exchange in the room and prevents the passage of moisture.
- Composite (or combined) drying oil - is made by mixing oil with a solvent. Designated MA-025. The finished mixture can be diluted with gasoline, turpentine, white spirit. Such enamel has a strong smell, and its fumes are harmful to health. Not suitable for indoor use.
- Artificial drying oil replaces the natural one and is designated GF-023.
- Pentaphthalic oil consists of real oils with the addition of a desiccant, glycerin and phthalic anhydride. This drying oil is designated PF-024.
To properly dilute oily enamels, you need to familiarize yourself with their composition, and then select the appropriate solution that matches the type of drying oil. On packages with paints it is always written which solvents are suitable for this product.
Varieties
Thinners for oily enamels are chemical substances, which are supplemented with formulations to achieve a more liquid consistency. The three main solvents are:
- White Spirit;
- solvent 647;
- turpentine.
White spirit is a universal thinner. It is used more often than other means. And now this diluent is made odorless. The cost of white spirit is low, so it is available even to a simple man in the street. When used, the consumption of oil paint is greatly reduced, but this does not affect the quality of the coating.
Solvent 647 is a colorless liquid with a pungent odor. This product is flammable. Indoors it is used as a dilution of alkyd and pentaphthalic paints. Thinner 647 can be used for varnishes and fillers. At the same time, the product can be used as a primer.
Turpentine - has long been used as a dilution. This is a tool that is obtained after processing resin, wood, and other materials. Turpentine is a specific essential oil with a very complex chemical composition. There are three main types: woody, stump and turpentine.
Two more agents are used as diluents. Kerosene restores old dried paints well. But in this case, turpentine must be added. Drying is long - ten days. After diluting the paint with gasoline, the resulting composition will give a matte finish.
Correct use
Before diluting oil paints, you must read the instructions. All solvents are volatile, so they should not be kept near fire, switches, knife switches. Due to the explosive nature of thinners, do not smoke during their application, as well as during the mixing process. At low temperatures Enamel dissolvers may freeze.
Some have a rather unpleasant pungent odor. Therefore, oil enamel should be diluted only in ventilated areas or on fresh air(unless it's cold). Otherwise, you can easily get poisoned by toxic fumes.
All thinners are strong chemicals. If they come into contact with open skin or mucous membranes, then these places should be urgently rinsed with plenty of clean water. cold water. Some solvents can even damage clothing.
When diluting oil enamels, you need to be very careful with the proportions. Incorrectly selected parts can simply spoil the mixture. Correct Proportions are always specified relative to each solvent. They are sold already with instructions for use.
Solvents are used not only to dilute thickened paints. Turpentine, white spirit and others are also used for fresh formulations. Solvents not only dilute mixtures, but also degrease them at the same time. With the help of diluting agents, a good primer is prepared.
Oil enamels are very popular, as they are very beautiful, affordable and well protect the surface from moisture, decay, corrosion. Even if the composition is very thick, you can always use thinners.
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