Refined lily flowers are a living decoration of the garden. Preparing bulbs for planting

Interspecific hybrid of lily - Variety Algarve

Lily is an adornment of many gardens and is very popular with flower growers around the world. Everyone dreams of growing lily flowers in their garden, planting and caring for which is not difficult and accessible, but requires pre-training.

Choosing a variety and bulbs of lilies

When choosing planting material, you need to make sure that it will be suitable for the selected variety, healthy, and suitable for growing in your area. In the issue of varietal compliance of lilies, one can only rely on the seller's honesty, but you can determine the species and quality of the bulbs by their appearance.

The best varieties of lilies for the garden

The genus of lilies is represented by more than 80 wild and cultivated species around the world. Their varietal diversity is even more impressive - about 8000 varieties and hybrids, each of which is unique in its own way.

Throughout Russia, including in Siberia and the Urals, summer residents practice the cultivation of Asian hybrid lilies. These varieties are frost-resistant, grow quickly and are not demanding in care. They bloom very profusely in June - July. A feature of Asians is the lack of smell in flowers. Most famous varieties this group - Marlene, Top Gunn, Lollipop, Yeti, Flore Pleno, Daira, Sorbet.

More capricious when growing Oriental lily hybrids. They do not tolerate low temperatures well, therefore they are preferred to be grown in the southern strip of Russia and in greenhouses near Moscow. They are distinguished by fragrant flowers of extraordinary beauty, up to 30 cm in diameter. the following varieties: Casablanca, Barbados, Cassandra, Mona Lisa, Double Surprise, Magic Star.

Lily Curly (Martagon) is famous for its unpretentiousness in cultivation. Martagon hybrids are common in northern regions of our country, especially such varieties as Beykhauz, Markhan, Hayson, Gay Lighte. At the base, the leaves of this type of lily are collected in a whorl, and a tall peduncle is strewn with many turban-shaped flowers.

The right variety is the key to easy care

That is why summer residents prefer tubular varieties. They are not affected by diseases and are unpretentious, and long, up to 1.5 m peduncles with many large flowers of various colors will become an exquisite decoration of your flower bed.

Determine the type of lily on the bulb

Experienced gardeners know that each group of lily hybrids has its own requirements for the composition of the soil, the illumination of the site and has its own threshold of frost resistance. So, growing lilies in open ground the Asian group and LA hybrids are possibly ubiquitous, and oriental varieties do not tolerate wintering; slightly alkaline soil is suitable for growing tubular lilies, and slightly acidic soil is suitable for growing OT hybrids.

The appearance of the bulb will help determine which group the lily belongs to:

  • White bulbs, sometimes with yellow and pink patches, are characteristic of the Asiatic and Longiflorum (LA) groups;
  • Large bulbs of yellow, rarely purple have Oriental and Oriental (OT) lilies;
  • The tubular lily bulbs are purple.

Choosing a healthy onion

When buying lilies, it is important to correctly determine the quality of planting material, since bulbs infected with fungal diseases will cause a lot of trouble and can infect flowers already growing in your flower beds.

  • The bulb should be elastic, juicy, without damage and signs of decay.
  • Planting lilies, the bulbs of which have dried up, do not have sprouts and root growth, will not bring the desired result. They need very careful care, and when flowering comes is unknown.
  • The size of living roots should be at least 5 cm.
  • Bulbs with a diameter of less than 3 cm will begin to bloom only two years after planting. How larger bulb, the more magnificent the color of the lily will be. The optimal diameter of the bulb is 12-16 cm.

When to buy bulbs

Lilies are planted both in autumn and spring. When choosing lilies, which are planned to be planted in the fall, it is important to consider that they need to be planted as early as possible, leaving a sufficient temporary supply before frost for rooting. Lilies, the cultivation and care of which was correct this year, begin to dig up from the end of August. It is advisable to purchase bulbs during this period.

Be careful when buying bulbs!

Pay attention to bulbs with a sprout, which go on sale in the fall. Most likely, they were not planted in the spring in the ground, and they missed one life cycle. Once in the ground, they immediately move to growth and freeze at the first sub-zero temperatures on the ground.

Buying lily seedlings

It is possible to plant lilies in the summer, especially when it comes to Asian hybrids and Candidum. They are sold as seedlings with a clod of earth, often blooming. Picking up a flower in this case is much easier - all its beauty is available to the eye, and there is no chance of getting off-grade planting material.

Do not buy lily seedlings after forcing!

Often seedlings in June and July are sold after forcing. In this case, the bulbs went through a life cycle in artificial conditions. In open ground, they will hurt, and they will be able to bloom only after a few years. The cost of such planting material is not high, which is a temptation for many novice growers.

Preparation of soil and bulbs, rules for planting lilies

Right choice plot, soil preparation and bulb planting play a decisive role in successful cultivation lilies. If you approach these stages responsibly, lilies will grow well and delight in flowering in the garden for more than one year.

Site selection

The choice of a site for cultivation largely depends on the type of lilies and their requirements for certain conditions:

  • Asiatic, oriental and tubular lilies are preferred sunny areas no through winds. Partial shade will not affect the growth and flowering of these lilies. If the illumination of the garden is not the same during the day, it is preferable to plant lilies on the east side so that they get as much as possible before lunch sunlight.
  • Curly lilies (Martagon) grow well and bloom in partial shade, especially when the leaf rosette is completely shaded and the flower stalks are in the sun.

For shading the bulbs during the summer, it is recommended to plant lilies near low-growing perennials (hosta, daylilies, nivyanik). In this combination blooming lilies will stand out and look bright, and the bulb will remain in the shade, protected from overheating and drying out. In shady areas under trees and dense shrubs, lilies stretch out, their stem is thin, and flowering is scarce and belated. Such plants very often get sick, and the bulbs die.

The best place to plant lilies

Preference for planting lilies should be given to elevated areas or flat areas. In the lowlands, the bulbs can get wet, be affected by fungal diseases, and in winter they are more likely to freeze.

Soil preparation

Lilies feel comfortable on garden or garden soil, well-drained and without high ground water. Peat or humus is added to sandy soils, and dense clay soil is facilitated by the introduction of coarse-grained river sand.

Lilies grow best when planted and cared for in soil with moderate acidity.

  • Moderately alkaline soil reaction (pH 7.0-8.0) is favorable for growing Snow White and Curly Lilies.
  • Asiatic and Oriental lilies grow well in soils with neutral acidity.
  • The tubular lily also has preferences - its varieties with pink flowers bloom brighter and more beautifully on slightly acidic soils (pH 6.0-6.5).

How to regulate acidity

To lower the pH level, lime, chalk, ash or dolomite flour. Heather, peat, acetic acid or colloidal sulfur will help increase acidity.

The soil for lilies is prepared in advance: in autumn - for spring planting, in summer - for autumn. They dig it to a depth of 35-40 cm, turning the layers over. For digging, fertilizers are applied to the soil per m²:

  • 1 bucket of humus, rotted manure or compost. The introduction of fresh manure is not permissible, since lilies in such soil will rot;
  • 1-2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, urea, nitroammophoska;
  • 1 liter of solution wood ash, except for those areas where it is planned to plant Martagon and Candidum lilies.

Applying this amount of fertilizer to the soil will provide the supply of nutrients the lilies need to grow. good growth and abundant flowering.

Preparing bulbs for planting

Pre-plant preparation of lilies is necessary to minimize the damage to the bulbs by fungal diseases. Dried bulbs are pre-soaked in water at room temperature for several hours.

Pickle the bulbs for 15-20 minutes in one of the solutions:

  • pink solution of potassium permanganate;
  • 2 g of karbofos per 1 liter of water;
  • 2 g of foundationazole per 1 liter of water;
  • special preparation for dressing bulbs before planting Maxim or Vitaros.

After processing, the bulbs are dried in the shade.

Planting lilies in the ground

Early autumn planting of lilies in open ground is considered the most successful. Planted during this period, they will have time to take root well before frost and on next year guaranteed to bloom. The exceptions are Oriental lilies and OT hybrids. They bloom late, by September the bulbs are not yet ready for planting, and when planted in October they will not have time to take root. Therefore, they are planted in the spring, when the soil warms up well.

The depth of planting bulbs depends on several factors:

  • Bulb size. The larger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be planted. The minimum depth is 10 cm. Deeper than 25 cm, lily bulbs should not be buried in the ground either. Baby bulbs are sown in furrows 5-7 cm deep.
  • Soil composition. On heavy soils, it is impossible to deepen the bulbs much.
  • Lily variety. For undersized planting depth is about 10 cm, tall - 15-20 cm.

A distance of 20 cm is maintained between the bulbs. Lilies of the Asian group grow rapidly, therefore, when planted between them, they withstand at least 30 cm. Pictures of multi-colored lilies planted 5-7 bulbs in one wide hole look beautiful.

Planting lilies in autumn and spring is carried out in pre-prepared holes, on a "pillow" of 5-7 cm from river sand. The roots are evenly distributed, after which the bulbs are covered with earth and watered abundantly.

Spring planting material can often be found with a twisted sprout. There is nothing terrible about this, but you need to place the bulb in the hole so that the top of the sprout is vertically above the ground. The bulb itself will take the desired position as the lily grows.

If for the reproduction of lilies it is necessary to obtain a large number of children, the bulbs are planted "on the side". In this position, the nest of bulbs will form faster, and the number of daughter bulbs will increase.

Lily plantings are desirable to be mulched, but a separate mulch is used for each varietal group:

  • Asian, Oriental, LA and OT hybrids are mulched with grassroots peat, sawdust, pine needles;
  • Plantings of Snow-White, Tubular and Curly varieties are mulched with leaf humus, mowed grass, and ash is also added.

Summer planting features

Asian and LA hybrids can be planted in summer. This also applies to White Lilies, whose bulbs are at rest in July-August. Planting lilies in July is carried out by transshipment.

Bulbs must be dug up with a clod of earth. A volume well is prepared in advance (50x50x50 cm), to which 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and mix it with the ground. The bottom of the hole is covered with river sand with a layer of 5-7 cm, after which a seedling is placed and sprinkled with earth mixed with humus or rotted manure. The seedling is watered abundantly and, if it is tall, tied to a support. The existing buds and flowers are cut off so that the lily spends all its strength on rooting.

Planting lilies in summer video

Lily care in summer

Growing lilies in the country is not burdensome. Caring for them comes down to regular moistening and loosening of the soil, as well as periodic fertilizing.

Watering

The soil under the lilies should be moderately moist throughout the growing season. Moisture stagnation will lead to rotting of the bulbs, while lilies endure short-term drought painlessly. Lack of watering long time will cause the lower leaves to wilt and poor development peduncle.

The basic rule for watering lilies

Lilies experience the greatest need for moisture in the spring, during active growth. In summer, they are not watered so abundantly, moistening the soil to the depth of the bulbs. Surface watering will not bring benefits. In this case, the plant will be thirsty, and a crust will form on the surface of the soil, which does not allow air to pass through.

It is advisable to water the lilies before lunch under the root, avoiding water on the leaves. During flowering, the amount of watering can be reduced. It is enough to shed the soil 25-30 cm deep, once every two weeks.

Soil loosening

Garden lilies, which are properly cared for and planted, need constant air access to the root system. Loosen the soil very carefully, trying not to damage the additional stem roots located near the surface of the soil. At the same time, weeds are removed.

During heavy rains, sand is washed out of the soil, it becomes clogged and hardens. In this case, they pour under the lilies river sand, which during loosening is mixed with the ground and makes it lighter.

Mulching plantings with straw or wood shavings will help facilitate the care of lilies in the summer. Also, you can maintain a constant soil moisture and protect the bulbs from overheating by planting them near lilies. undersized perennials.

Top dressing in summer

If you have an automatic watering system set up, as well as a planting in the prepared soil, and care for the lilies is practically not required - in the first year, the plants need a one-time application of fertilizers.

Complex top dressing is poured under the flowers during budding, using equal amounts of ammophoska and nitroammophoska, at the rate of 30g / m². Dissolving them in 10 liters of water.

Lily care after flowering

Many gardeners have a question about how to care for lilies after flowering. It was during this period that the plant is most susceptible to diseases, since all the forces went to the flower stalks.

Watering

After flowering, the watering rate is increased, trying to ensure constant soil moisture at a depth of 25-30 cm. From the second half of August, watering is completely stopped, since the soil must be dry for a successful wintering of the bulbs.

Most of all, this applies to Eastern and OT hybrids. After flowering, the soil is thoroughly dried. In September, the flower beds should be covered plastic wrap so that it remains dry during prolonged autumn rains and thaws in winter period. Remove shelter in early spring after the snow melts, during fertilization.

top dressing

After flowering, lilies need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. As top dressing, superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used at 10 and 30 g per m², respectively. They are diluted with 10 liters of water and the lilies are watered with this solution under the root, after preliminary watering clean water.

Lily bulbs do not have a protective shell, like tulips and other bulbs, so organic fertilizers must be applied very carefully. Nutrient solutions based on manure or manure slurry are prepared at a low concentration: 0.3-0.5 liters per bucket of water. Oversaturation of the soil with organic fertilizers will lead to decay and subsequent death of the bulb.

For wintering lily bulbs, the same top dressing as in summer is done in spring during snowmelt. Fertilizers are applied in dry form on a crust of melted ice and gradually get to the roots of the bulb, stimulating its awakening, growth and development.

pruning

withered flowers cut off from the peduncle. It is impossible to delay with this, since seed boxes will begin to form on the peduncle, and the plant will spend all its strength on their development.

Lily care after flowering includes stem pruning. It is carried out only after the leaves and peduncle have completely dried out, since they are a conductor of nutrients to the bulbs. In September, the stem is cut “on a stump” 10-15 cm long. In late autumn, in October or November, this stump is carefully pulled out so that cold air does not enter the bulb through it.

You need to cut blooming lilies for bouquets correctly!

The cut of the peduncle is made at an acute angle so that the remaining leaves completely or partially cover it. An oblique cut is needed to drain water during rain. If the cut is made even, a large amount of moisture through it will enter the bulb, which will cause it to rot.

Protection of lilies from diseases and pests

Lilies can be affected by pests, the most dangerous of which are:

  • Onion root mite. Prevention and protection - planting healthy material; dressing the bulbs before planting with karbofos (5 g / 1 liter of water for 30 minutes); thermal treatment of bulbs in water 50 ºС for 5 minutes.
  • Onion leaf beetle. Struggle - timely cleaning of weeds; collection of beetles; treatment with chlorophos (10 g per bucket of water)
  • Lilac owl. Struggle - timely cleaning of weeds and plant residues.

Often lilies, planting and caring for which were carried out in violation of the rules of agricultural technology, are affected by fungal diseases such as fusarium, rust, gray rot. The bulbs in this case begin to rot, and the leaves become stained and wither. If the development of fungi is left to chance, the plant will die.

To combat fungal diseases, the bulbs are treated with fungicides before planting: Fundazol, Topsin, Euporen, Bavistin. Plants are sprayed with the same preparations during the growing season, if the first signs of diseases appear.

Viral diseases of lilies are much less common, but effective means To date, there is no way to deal with them. Infected plants are removed and destroyed off site.

Lily care after flowering video

Features of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals

Today, lilies are successfully grown in Siberia and beyond the Urals. Asian and LA hybrids, Martagon lilies and tubular hybrids are cultivated there. Some varieties of OT hybrids and Oriental lilies are able to winter in these regions under cover. Planting and care in the Urals and Siberia differ little from growing lilies in regions with a warm climate.

A feature of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals is their shelter for the winter. The flower beds are insulated with humus, a layer of at least 7 cm, or fallen leaves - about 20 cm. Oriental lilies and OT hybrids are additionally covered with plastic wrap or agrofiber so that the soil remains dry in winter. Curly lilies calmly endure winters in Siberia without shelter.

Shelter from lilies is removed immediately after the snow melts, so that the sprouts do not appear early and do not freeze out during late frosts. If, nevertheless, the lilies have sprouted, and the threat of frost has not passed, they are covered with spruce branches or straw.

Transplanting and dividing bulbs

In order for the lily, planting and caring for it in the open field, which does not require special skills, to develop and bloom well, its bulbs must be regularly transplanted to a new place. Otherwise, their stems become sluggish, and the flowers become smaller. The frequency of the necessary transplant depends on the type of lilies grown:

  • Curly and American lilies without a transplant are grown up to 15 years.
  • Oriental and Longiflorum lilies, OT and La hybrids are transplanted every 3-5 years.
  • Asiatic and Trumpet lilies can be repotted every year as they grow rapidly.

Transplant in autumn

Optimal time for transplanting a lily, the care of which was organized according to all the rules - early autumn. Bulbs are dug in August or early September, a month and a half after flowering. By this time, they will have accumulated enough nutrients and will quickly take root in a new place. With late autumn planting, there is a high probability that the bulbs will not have time to take root and die in the frozen ground.

Children are separated from the bulbs dug for transplantation. Often they fall off on their own, but if the daughter bulbs are tightly collected in the nest, they are cut off with a clean knife, be sure to keep a part of the bottom on each bulb. Bulb division is the easiest and most reliable way to propagate lilies, which retains all the maternal qualities of the variety.

Dry and decaying scales are removed from the bulbs, and roots that are too long are cut off. handle them antifungal drugs: 1% potassium permanganate solution, 2% iodine, 1% iron sulphate, foundationazole. After drying in a shaded, well-ventilated place.

It is advisable to plant lilies in a new place within a week after digging, so that the bulbs do not dry out. Small daughter bulbs are planted separately for growing to a depth of 5-7 cm and after a year or two they are again transplanted to permanent place.

Spring transplant

Oriental and OT hybrids of lilies are transplanted in the spring, as they fade only by the end of August. Bulbs are dug up late autumn dry and store in a cool place. Place them in plastic bags or plastic containers with ventilation holes and sprinkle with wet sawdust or moss to protect it from drying out. Bulbs are planted in a permanent place when the threat of returning frosts has passed.

Spring transplantation is also acceptable when growing other types of lilies, before the appearance, or at the very beginning of the development of sprouts. It is important to bear in mind that during spring transplantation, lilies develop rapidly and the appearance of early sprouts can lead to their death due to late frosts.

Lily transplant in summer

AT summer transplant need snow-white lilies, the growing cycle of which has its own characteristics. They enter the dormant phase in July-August, and by September they are already beginning to form. a new outlet. When transplanting, it is not necessary to cut the stem, but it is advisable to shorten the long roots to 7-10 cm. After the procedure is completed, the lilies should be watered abundantly, stimulating the growth of new roots.

The division and planting of lilies in July is also possible when growing Asiatic lilies. The dug nests are divided into separate stems with a bulb and immediately planted in a new place. At the same time, the buds and existing flowers are cut off.

Outcome

Growing lilies in the country is within the power of even a novice florist, provided that he follows the rules for caring for them. It is important to remember that depending on the species, lilies need different conditions, the observance of which will be the key to abundant and colorful flowering.

Images of one of the most exquisite lilies - snow-white, were found in ancient manuscripts and on antique frescoes. Lilies would have remained unknown in Europe if not for the Crusaders, who brought them along with a number of other bulbous plants.

Some time passed, and in the Renaissance, white lilies became a symbol of purity and purity, which is why they can be seen near the images of the Virgin Mary. While White Lily became known as the lily of the Madonna, the red one became a symbol of the flowering staff of St. Joseph.

Buying and storing bulbs

If you decide to purchase lily bulbs, first of all pay attention to their condition: they should be quite large, fleshy, healthy, and the scales should not be overdried. When purchasing planting material in early spring, before planting in a flower bed, store the bulbs in a package in a dark, cool place - the bottom drawer of the refrigerator is the best for this. In the following video you can see how to do it right.

Periodically check the condition of the bulbs, and if you notice that the lily has started to grow, just cut the package in the direction of the growth of the stem, this will help prevent the sprout from deforming. When purchasing lily bulbs in the fall, keep them in a dark, ventilated area until planting. Remember, the deadline for planting plants is mid-October.

You will find a huge assortment of lilies in our catalog, which contains offers from various garden online stores. .

For a successful wintering of lilies, they need to be on time. The best thing for this is a film, dry leaves or. When covering plantings, make sure that the ground is completely dry. In the spring, the shelter must be removed in time - preferably before the first sprouts appear.

Kinds

The birthplace of lilies is the mountainous regions of Asia, and in total there are over a hundred species of this plant in nature.

Asian hybrids:

  • rich yellow with red - "Grand Cru";
  • coffee with scarlet tips - "Lollypop";
  • pink and white - "Marlene", "Ventoux Marseille", "Vermeer", "Kentucky";


Terry Asiatic lily "Cocktail Twins". A photo
  • yellow - "Kansas";
  • yellow with red - "Gitana".
Oriental hybrids:
  • raspberry white - "Barbados";
  • white with yellow - "Time Out";


Oriental Lily "Pink Mist". A photo
  • white with pink and yellow - "Star Class";
  • white with pink - "Set Point";
  • tricolor - "Arena".
LA hybrids:
  • apricot - "Bestseller";
  • lemon - "Aerobic";
  • pink-coffee - "Royal Club";

LA-hybrid "Golden Tycoon". A photo
  • red - "Royal Parade";
  • apricot - "Swing".
Over 300 new varieties appear on the country's markets every year, the abundance and beauty of which can amaze anyone. These flowers are different not only in the color of the flower, but also in a variety of shapes and, of course, the name: bluish "Blue Eyes", golden-orange "Ariosto", cherry "Stargazer" - who can they leave indifferent?


If we talk about hybrids in more detail, then they differ significantly from each other. For example, Dutch hybrids with a dense texture of inflorescences and petals are strong enough to be easily transported over any distance. "Asians" of the Russian selection are very fragile and airy, as evidenced by their romantic names: "Nochka", "Pink Haze", "Virineya".

Today, everyone can afford to plant lilies in their garden, even people with allergies. True, it is better for them to purchase odorless varieties: as a rule, there is a corresponding marking on the packaging of plants. And thanks to the unpretentiousness of plants, growing lilies will not take you much time.

Lily is generally recognized as the queen of the garden. graceful flower amazing beauty with a magical aroma from time immemorial has been admired by all peoples of the world. There were legends about lilies, they decorated dwellings and temples. Graceful flowers were depicted in ancient frescoes, bas-reliefs and paintings by famous artists. White lily - a symbol of virginity and purity, adorned the canvases depicting the Virgin Mary. That is why in Christianity it is also called the Lily of the Madonna.

But Europe might not have seen this magical flower if the crusaders had not brought it there. Later, under Peter I, the lily began to grow in Russia.

Today, the lily is the best-known bulbous flower crop, with more than 6,000 hybrid varieties created by crossing different species.

No wonder you want to plant lilies on your personal plot by making it landscape design truly impressive. Only place them correctly for maximum effect.

As a rule, lilies are planted in the middle or back of the flower garden because of the height of the plant and the beauty of its top. Wherein the foreground is recommended to be decorated with low-growing flowers with attractive leaves that do not lose their decorative effect throughout the season. It can be:

  • geranium;
  • brunner;
  • lavender;
  • stakhis and others.

Such flowers will close, yellowed after flowering, the lower part of the lilies, creating beautiful composition. A good solution for a flower garden would be to plant flowers such as aster, echinacea and phlox between lilies that bloom in autumn, when the lily bush fades and only the bulb remains.

As for lilies of undersized varieties (not higher than 30 cm), they look great in the foreground of the flower garden or in the design Alpine slide. The combination of undersized beautiful lilies with stones gives very interesting design solutions. Also a great option is to plant such varieties of lilies in flower containers, which during flowering can be successfully placed on the site, and after the lilies have faded, simply removed.

Without a doubt, you will be captivated by these diverse and unusual beautiful flowers- lilies. Caring for them, moreover, is quite simple and will not cause you much trouble. You just need to know some subtleties and rules.

Bulb selection and storage

Pay attention to which group the lily variety that you like belongs to. There are nine such groups according to the origin and characteristics of the plant. Belonging to a certain group determines the specifics agrotechnical methods cultivation.

The appearance of the bulbs is a guarantee of the success of the full growth of the lily. They should be fleshy, large, with a bottom without damage, and the scales should be fresh and not dried out.

Bulbs purchased in early spring should be stored, unpacked, in a cool, dark place or at the bottom of the refrigerator until landing. They need to be monitored regularly. If a sprout has appeared on the bulb, then the package should be pierced in this place for its normal development.

Bulbs purchased in early autumn are stored until planting in a dark room that is well ventilated or ventilated. The last date for planting bulbs in the ground is mid-October.

Planting bulbs

Since lilies grow well in one place up to five years, and frequent transplanting only harms plants, then the place for their growth should be selected very carefully. The best time for planting is mid or late September.

Before planting, the bulbs should be processed. Purchased bulbs should be pickled in a 1% solution of manganese, immersed there for half an hour. Bulbs from their flower garden are thoroughly washed in water and dried scales are removed. Then both are dried and the roots are shortened to a length of 50 mm.

For the normal growth of lilies, nutritious, loose soil is required, which must first be well moistened.

The hole for the bulb is dug in such a way that its depth is three times greater than the diameter of the bulb itself. A handful of sand is poured onto the bottom of the hole, the bulb itself is placed with straightened roots and sprinkled with earth on top. Then, on the surface of this layer of earth, a depression is made with a finger, into which a little granular fertilizer is poured.

The gap between the holes depends on the variety of lilies. If the grown plant is powerful and tall, then the holes should be made with an interval of 20–30 cm. For lilies of undersized varieties, it is enough to make holes every 10–15 cm. Planting is completed by carefully watering the planted plants.

Cultivation and care

Most varieties of lilies prefer full sun, but good watering must be ensured. But it is not at all necessary to choose areas for the growth of lilies that are in the sun all day. It is enough that it illuminates the plants in the morning. In addition, areas in partial shade are also well suited for normal plant growth.

Moderate watering of lilies is necessary throughout the season. You should know that the most intensive watering of lilies is required in the first half of summer and then after they bloom. At this time, the bulb is just beginning to form, accumulating the main nutrients for wintering.

Proper care of lilies, first of all, consists in mulching the soil. This makes it possible to retain its moisture longer and minimize loosening. Supra-bulbous roots and babies on stems are located quite close to the surface. That is why you should not injure them once again by loosening the soil.

Lily fertilizer has a very great importance. In early spring (before the shoots appear), it is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil - ammonium nitrate, a solution of fermented mullein, and others. After the first shoots appear, the soil should be treated with a Bordeaux mixture. When buds begin to tie on the bushes, ammonium nitrate is re-introduced into the soil. Throughout the season periodically add wood ash to the soil. This gives very good results - lily inflorescences become larger, brighter and more disease resistant.

Cut flowers and stems should also be done according to certain rules. Be sure to leave on the bush most of the stem with leaves, and make the cut obliquely so that it rolls off rainwater. It usually causes stem rot. In autumn, the stems should be cut more intensively, leaving no more than 10-20 cm of their height above the ground.

Further care for lilies is to shelter them for the winter. This should be done when the autumn rainy season ends. The earth is covered first with dry leaves, peat or sawdust, then with a film, which is pressed with spruce branches. In this way, the insulated soil does not freeze for a long time, which contributes to the normal growth of roots all winter. With the onset of spring, the insulation is removed to allow new shoots to hatch.

reproduction

All types of lilies reproduce in the same way - with the help of bulb scales. This makes it possible to increase the number of plants of the variety you like. There are two ways to reproduce.

First way. In autumn, the lily bulb should be carefully dug up and freed from the ground. Then, pressing lightly, it is necessary to separate several healthy, without spots of the upper scales. After that, the place of separation on the bulb is treated with a weak solution of manganese and sprinkled with a mixture of sulfur and charcoal. After this procedure, the bulb is returned to its place and sprinkled with earth.

Obtained in this way flakes are also treated with a weak solution of manganese, then dried, folded into plastic bags with filler and tied well. In this form, they are stored for a month and a half in a dark room at room temperature, and then transferred to a cooler place for a month. After this time, the packages are put in the refrigerator and kept there until planting, which is usually done at the end of July.

Second way. In the spring (early May), the bulbs are also carefully dug up and the scales are separated from them. Then, washed with a weak solution of manganese, they are planted in wooden boxes filled with a nutrient mixture with a small amount of sand. From above, the planted scales are covered with a thin layer of moss or a film and removed for 2–4 months in a greenhouse. After this time, children and leaves are formed. Such bulbs can already be planted in the beds. Before the onset of cold weather, they usually take root well. For the winter they are carefully covered, pouring any insulation on top (dry leaves, peat, sawdust), and putting a film and spruce branches on it.

Most popular varieties

Hybrid varieties of lilies amaze with their quantity and variety. But unfortunately, not all are available to our gardener. The most popular varieties that have proven themselves well in our regions are:

  • oriental hybrids: Set Point (white-pink), Star Class (white-pink with yellow tips), Time-out (white-yellow) and Barbados (crimson-white);
  • Asian hybrids: Gitana (red-yellow), Kansas (yellow), Kentucky (white-pink), Lollipon (coffee with scarlet tips) and Grand Cru (bright yellow with red tips);
  • la hybrids: Royal Parade (red), Royal Club (pink-coffee), Bestseller (apricot) and Aerobic (lemon).

If the place of the queen of the garden is still vacant on your personal plot, then it's time to eliminate this unfortunate misunderstanding. Lily will fill your garden with amazing fragrance and charm. elegant colors , delighting and delighting with its beauty almost all summer.

11 minutes to read

Lilies are one of the popular perennial flowers that are found quite often in summer cottages. The plant has a rich history. Mentions of it are found in ancient legends, it is endowed with extraordinary healing properties, but, first of all, this flower differs from others in refinement and beauty. This article will help answer the question of how to grow lilies.

Kinds

The plant has about 80 species, from which a considerable number of hybrids have been obtained. The shape of the flowers is different: flat, star-shaped, cup-shaped, bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, tubular, chalmoid.

Asian lilies

The most popular types of plants are:

  1. Asian. These include: Dutch lily, spotted, bulbous, tiger, one-color, drooping, dwarf, Maksimovich, David. This also includes lilies of the Fiesta group, as well as hybrids of F. Skinner, I. Taylor, E. Palmer, Mid-Century, S. Patterson, P. Bayam. The latter were bred by Canadian scientists and are not afraid of low temperatures. Their advantages: unpretentiousness, endurance, withstand cold, unpretentious to lighting, easily multiply. Cons: No fragrance. Asian varieties prefer neutral or slightly acidic soils. Propagated by bulbs and seeds. Seed germination - 70%. Plants can reach a height of 150 cm. Flowering begins in late July.
  2. Martagon. The curly lily is considered the original of this variety. These hybrids include groups: Paisley, Backhouse hybrids, Markhan. The advantages include: frost resistance, unpretentiousness to the soil, durability, not susceptible to viruses. Martagon hybrids are rarely used in landscaping.
  3. Candidum. These include hybrids obtained from chalcedonic, snow-white and others. Candidum prefer alkaline soils and open, well-lit areas. Main disadvantage- often affected by fungal diseases.
  4. American. This group includes: lily Parry, Humboldt, Yuerbank, leopard, Colombian and others. Due to their capriciousness, American lilies are not widely distributed. They grow in soils with low acidity, an abundance of sunlight and with good watering. They don't tolerate transplants.
  5. Long-flowered. The most popular among them are Formosan lily and l. Zalivsky. AT middle lane Russians withstand winters only with good shelter, in the north they do not take root. Many varieties are suitable primarily for growing in pots.
  6. Tubular. This group is one of the most extensive. This includes such groups as: Sunburst, Golden Showers, Harts Desire, Golden Clarion, etc. Their advantages: frost resistance, not subject to viral diseases, practically not afraid of fungi, easily multiply. They prefer garden soil fertilized with humus. Some varieties require limestone soil. Flowering lasts throughout the summer.
  7. Oriental. Lily Henry, golden, Japanese are very popular. Varieties are quite capricious in matters of cultivation, often suffer from diseases, and do not reproduce well. Requires good shelter for the winter.
  8. LA hybrids (Asian and Longflower). Grow well in open ground. These hybrids are frost-resistant and practically unaffected. They prefer neutral soils. It is advisable to insulate for the winter with peat.
  9. Hybrids of Eastern and Tubular (OT). Used for year-round forcing flowers. They do not require much attention when growing.
  10. Hybrids of Eastern and Long-flowered (LO) and Eastern and Asian (OA). One of the new groups bred by breeders recently.
  11. Hybrid of Long-flowered and Tubular (LP hybrids, ONGIpets). They have high frost resistance. Grow well in the northern regions of Russia.
  12. AA hybrids (Asian and Olean lilies). Appeared in Russia in the early 2000s. They tolerate frosty winters well.

Lilies OT hybrids

Reference. For the Russian climate, OT hybrids and Asian ones are most suitable.

Purchase of bulbs

Before buying bulbs, it is necessary to establish their belonging to a particular variety. Planting conditions and agricultural practices depend on this. The main criterion for choosing planting material is quality. The ideal length of living roots is 5 cm. The bulbs themselves should be firm, without rotten or moldy scales.

lily bulbs

Light bulbs with thin scales are not recommended to buy, as they need special care. In this case, planting material indicates that the plant went on sale after winter forcing. Planting them in the spring, do not wait for flowering in the summer.

When buying bulbs in early spring or winter, they are placed in plastic bag with moss or dry upper peat. Holes are made in the bag, after which they are removed in the refrigerator until planting. If the material is packaged but has begun to sprout, it is necessary to cut off the package and allow unhindered growth. Storage temperature - not lower than +2 and not higher than +5 degrees.

Dry bulbs can be brought back to life by wrapping them in a dense damp cloth 2-3 hours before planting. Avoid damage.

Soil preparation

The soil is dug up (up to 40 cm deep) and good drainage is arranged. You can make phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or humus. Sandy soils are diluted with peat, and clay soils with sand.

Acidic soils are detrimental to lilies. To reduce acidity, wood ash (up to 200 g per 1 sq.m) or chalk (up to 500 g) is added. The optimum acidity is 6.5 pH.

Lilies benefit from wood ash

It is desirable that the land was fresh, that is, no other plants were grown in it. An artificial substrate is often used to replace the soil.

The earth contaminated with microorganisms is subjected to heat treatment, that is, solarization.

The soil should be kept moist throughout the season. Enhanced watering is required for plants in the second half of summer or after the flowering period.

Lilies: planting and care

When planting, it should be borne in mind that the plant is not recommended to be disturbed for at least 4 years. It is not recommended to plant one bulb of different varieties, it is better to plant them in groups of 3 or more. Frequent transplants slow growth.

Mostly planting is carried out in the fall (until the end of September). This is due to the fact that in the autumn period the phase of active regrowth of roots begins.

It is advisable to choose sunny places for planting, but it is advisable to shade the base itself by planting low annuals. When sunlight hits the flowers, they acquire different shades.

The landing process is as follows:

  1. Planting depth is approximately 2 bulb heights. The distance between them is at least 20 cm.
  2. The bottom of the pit is covered with gravel (to improve drainage), a small layer of soil is laid on top of it.
  3. Next, the bulb is placed, covered with earth and lightly rammed.
  4. A small indentation is made on top, where fertilizer is poured.

  • The larger the bulb, the deeper it should be planted;
  • If there are rodents on the site, a metal mesh or special baskets should be used;
  • Bulbs are planted deeper in autumn than in spring;
  • Lilies will multiply faster when planted "on barrels";
  • To protect against diseases, you can sprinkle the soil with a small amount of foundationazole or wood ash.

Most varieties of lilies do not require warming. If necessary, cover them for the winter, use hay, foliage, old raspberry branches (layer up to 30 cm). Shelter is removed immediately after the snow melts.

Planting lilies in the spring is dangerous because at this time the dormant period of the plant ends. Some varieties may begin flowering only on next year. Unlike autumn planting, abundant watering is recommended in spring. The shoots that have appeared are completely buried in the ground, otherwise they will burn out in the sun. This method allows you to get more small bulbs for propagation, and the plant itself - to get more nutrients from the soil. Spring lilies need more careful care. It is recommended to plant them separately from the autumn ones.

tubular lilies

Summer planting of lilies is not recommended. Such plants take root worse and are more susceptible to disease. Flowering will start at best case just next year. When seeds appear, they should be removed to avoid depletion of the bulb. Closer to autumn, the stem will dry out, but it should be cut off only in spring. In the heat, regular watering is required. Fertilizer summer lilies do not require.

The main care consists only in loosening the soil, timely removal of weeds and tying up plants.

Reference. Transfer times vary by region. In the south of Russia, the above plant is transplanted in October-November, in the middle lane - in October, in the north - no later than September.

How to grow lilies from seeds

This method is safer than growing with bulbs. Diseases are not transmitted through seeds. When growing lilies in large quantities, propagation by seeds is more economical.

lily seeds

Planting material can be purchased at the store or obtained independently. Seeds are collected only from healthy plants, when the seed box has already acquired a brown color, but has not yet opened. If you tighten with the collection, then the seeds can spill out from the wind.

When propagating by seeds, it is customary to divide plants into 2 groups depending on the speed of their germination. Fast-growing varieties germinate in the first year. Slowly germinating varieties produce only a small bulb by autumn. Seeds may not germinate immediately, some of them may only sprout next year. Sowing is carried out immediately on the beds or in seedling boxes.

For planting in open ground, a place is chosen where other bulbous plants have not grown before.

  1. The soil is pre-cultivated and weeded from weeds. The recommended bed width is 1 m.
  2. Seeds are poured across, each next line is at a distance of 15 cm from the other. Sowing is carried out on a calm day in order to control the density of planting material rash.
  3. When sowing at random, there is a possibility of thickening, which leads to the defeat of plants with gray mold.
  4. Before the onset of cold weather, the following varieties are sown: Martagon, Elegant, Concolor Lily, the cultivation and care of which is then carried out as usual.
  5. Seeds of slow-germinating varieties are sown immediately after harvest.
  6. The beds are covered with a thin layer of sand (5 mm), and insulated for the winter.
  7. In summer, plants need top dressing, regular watering and weeding of beds.

Lily seedlings

Seeds are planted in seedling boxes at the end of February or in March. Soil composition (1:1): leafy and soddy humus, gravel and peat. After sowing, the soil is covered with a layer of sand. The optimum temperature is not lower than +18, but not higher than +25 degrees. At higher temperatures, the percentage of germination decreases. On average, sprouts appear after 20 days. It is necessary to monitor the soil moisture and close the seedlings from sunlight. In autumn, the resulting bulbs are transplanted into open ground. Flowering occurs in the second or third year.

To speed up germination, immediately after harvest, the seeds are mixed with sand and stored for three months at a temperature of +5 degrees, after which they are buried in snow for three weeks. Then they land in the usual order.

Fertilizer

The first dressing is done in the spring before the shoots appear. Mineral and organic fertilizers are well suited for lilies: nitroammophoska granules, ammonium nitrate, fermented mullein. Fresh mullein is not suitable as fertilizer.

organic fertilizer for lilies

Wood ash is used to fasten flowers and protect against diseases. You can sprinkle it up to 5 times per season.

In the second half, potassium magnesia and double superphosphate are added to strengthen the stems.

Excess fertilizer leads to various diseases and reduces winter hardiness.

Diseases and pests

The main disease of the lily is gray mold (the second name is botrytis). The disease manifests itself brown spots on buds and leaves.

  • The reason for botrytis is a violation of growing technology, in particular, too wet soil. Mold can also appear from the temperature difference in mid-August.
  • Solution: to combat the disease, it is recommended to loosen the soil (so that excess moisture), arrange a canopy over the garden. Before the onset of the rainy season, the soil is sprayed with preparations containing copper. The affected parts of the plant are removed.

Another ailment is bacterial rot. It appears in early spring and looks like yellow spots on the leaves, later turning into flower stalks. Causes extensive rotting and leaf fall.

  • Reason: excess fertilizer (in particular, nitrogenous) and too wet soil.
  • Solution: do not use fertilizer, reduce the amount of watering.

Root rot, which manifests itself in the form of yellowing of the tops of the plant. Infected bulbs have a healthy appearance, but the roots are covered with brown spots.

  • Reason: poor soil or infected planting material.
  • Solution: remove damaged areas, disinfect.

Rust affects the leaves of lilies. They are covered with small spots, subsequently acquiring a red tint. Diseased leaves dry up over time.

  • Reason: carried by diseased planting material (bulbs).
  • Solution: diseased leaves are removed, the plant is treated with Bordeaux mixture (1%). Fungicides can be used for treatment.

As a preventive measure for fungal diseases, plants are sprayed with Fitosporin.

Among the pests, the pisk beetle is especially dangerous for lilies, spider mite, aphids, larvae of click beetles, beetles. To combat insects, regular weeding and spraying with chemicals (for example, Inta-Vir) is carried out. The beetle beetle is resistant to insecticides, it can only be dealt with manually.

Pisk beetle or lily beetle

Mouse lily bulbs are dangerous. To protect against them, special nets are used, which were mentioned above.

Features of growing lilies in the northern regions of Russia

Even taking into account the frost resistance of lilies, they do not always survive the cold in the northern regions of Russia. For growing these plants in cold zones, the following recommendations exist:

  1. It is necessary to study the specifics of the growth of the variety or hybrid you like in specific climatic conditions before purchasing seeds or bulbs.
  2. For planting, groups are selected that have proven themselves in the conditions of a particular region.
  3. If you have a choice - to buy bulbs from a collector or in a store (at an exhibition), give preference to the first. Collectors sell only those varieties that grow well in the region. At exhibitions, varieties are often shown that are not suitable for germination in Russia.
  4. Analyze the site and choose a suitable place, prepare the soil.

Russian flower growers, answering the question of how to grow Asiatic or other lilies, recommend first of all taking care of the quality of the soil. often on garden plots the soil is not suitable for planting lilies due to its composition or fatigue.

In contact with

The divinely beautiful flower of the garden lily is credited with many beautiful and interesting legends. The white lily is the personification of purity and innocence. The ancient Greek legend says that the white lily grew from the milk of the mother of the gods Juno, while according to the legends of the ancient Jews, the lily grew in the Garden of Eden during the temptation of Eve by the devil and remained pure, because no evil dared to touch her innocence.

The yellow lily is also crowned beautiful legend. There is a beautiful saying that it was under the yellow lily that grew in the reeds that the cradle of Moses stopped.

The red lily has its own, no less interesting, history. And although the lily has always been considered a symbol of royal power white color, but some argue that the lily, presented by the angel to Clovis, had exactly the red color. There is a legend that it acquired a red color on the night before the suffering of the Savior at the time when he passed through Garden of Gethsemane. All the flowers that grew there bowed their heads. And only one lily remained adamant, wishing that he could enjoy her beauty to the fullest. And so it was in fact - the Savior for a moment fixed his gaze on this proud flower. And then the lily became ashamed of herself. She was able to catch the pained look on herself and compare her pride with the humility of the Savior. The blush spread over all its petals and remained there forever. That is why, to this day, it is impossible to meet a red lily with a proudly raised head, and by night it closes all its petals into a bud.

It is not known why the lily flower is so popular among flower growers, but the fact that the lily is considered the most beautiful flower- it certainly is.

Types and varieties of lilies

Currently, there are close to 80 species of this charming flower, which gave flower growers a large number of hybrids. Lily flowers can be very different:

  • Cupped.
  • Flat.
  • Star-shaped.
  • Bell-shaped.
  • Chalmoid.
  • Tubular.
  • funnel-shaped.

Despite all the beauty of lilies, the following varieties of lilies are considered the most popular. So, lily is a description of varieties.

  • Asian variety. Asian varieties of lilies include: tiger, spotted, Dutch, dwarf, one-color, bulbous, lilies of the Fiesta group and some hybrids. Their main advantages: resistance to low temperatures, unpretentiousness in cultivation and clarification and ease in reproduction. They like to grow on slightly acidic and neutral soils and propagate by seeds or bulbs. The only drawback of the Asian variety of lilies is the lack of aroma.

  • American variety. Among the American varieties are the following names of lilies: Colombian lily, leopard, Pari lily, Werbank, Humboldt. American grade lilies like low-acid soil and well-drained areas. The disadvantage is that they do not withstand transplants.

  • Martagon. Martagon lilies are curly hybrids. They perfectly tolerate low temperatures, are not susceptible to infection by viruses, are durable and unpretentious to the soil.

  • Long-flowered varieties. These include the Formosan lily and the Zalivsky lily. Mostly this variety is grown as a room, on the windowsills. The reason for this is that they do not withstand temperature extremes.

In addition to the above species, among gardeners, those that tolerate frosty winters well and do not require special care during the growing process are also popular:

  1. AA hybrids.
  2. Long-flowered hybrids.
  3. Hybrids of tubular lilies.
  4. Hybrids of Asian and Oriental lilies.

Wanting to plant beautiful lilies in their garden, flower growers are primarily interested in when is the best time to transplant lilies? Let's consider this question in more detail.

planting lilies

spring planting lilies

Behind the cold months and spring chores begin on suburban areas. It is in the spring that many are engaged in planting bulbs, because spring planting creates favorable conditions for the growth of the root system and the survival of the plant in a new place.

But, in view of the fact that lilies are stored in cold rooms all winter, when transferred to heat, they quickly grow. This means that all varieties have a limited planting time. That is, lily bulbs need to be planted in the ground with small sprouts.

  • In the event that their sprouts have already reached 10-12 cm, they should be planted sideways, thereby ensuring the horizontal position of the sprouts. In the process of growth, their sprouts will gradually straighten up and provide flowering. The advantage of such a landing is also that more large-sized children are formed in the underground part.

Important! spring planting lilies for southern regions undesirable.

  • Autumn planting of lilies, unlike spring, has one significant advantage - the plants themselves feel when they can already hatch in the spring. But, unfortunately, not all varieties of lilies can be purchased in stores in the fall.
  • Lily transplantation is also practiced during the summer months. Especially if you need to fill empty spaces in the flower bed after digging up tulips, daffodils or other early flowering plants. Florists call this type of planting transshipment, because you need to dig up the plants along with a clod of earth and carefully transfer them to a previously dug hole. Lilies perfectly tolerate transshipment.
  • Experienced flower growers recommend planting and transplanting bulbs in late August or early September, when the lilies have already faded. In the event that you purchased the bulbs in the spring, then planting in open ground is best done in the month of May.

It is important to know! Late-blooming lily varieties should be planted in spring to ensure correct formation bulbs in autumn.

When to plant lilies, it's up to each of you. The main thing is to follow all the recommendations and tips that you can read in our article.

lily bulbs

To ensure a lush bloom of lilies in the garden, you need to know how to choose the right lily bulbs. The main requirement is to pay attention to the quality of the bulb. Live bulb roots should be firm and free of moldy or rotten scales. Their optimal length is 5 cm.

  • When buying bulbs in winter or early spring, they should be properly stored.
  • To do this, put them in a plastic bag with moss or dry peat.
  • Make small holes in the bag, then store them in the refrigerator until planting.
  • Systematically inspect the planting material. In the event that the bulbs begin to germinate, it is recommended to open the packaging material and allow them to germinate unhindered.
  • In this case, it is necessary to provide the planting material optimal temperature– from +2 to +5*С.

Many amateur flower growers are interested in the question - is it possible to bring dry bulbs back to life? It is generally accepted that dry bulbs are not suitable for planting. But it's still worth trying to revive them. Especially if these are bulbs of your favorite variety of lilies. To do this, before planting for 4-5 hours, wrap the bulbs in a damp soft cloth. Just before planting, do not forget to treat them with a 10% solution of karbofos.

Soil preparation

  • An equally important task is the proper preparation of the soil. For planting lilies, select the freshest place where other plants have not yet been grown.
  • Remember that the roots of the lily bulb go deep into the soil, so you need to dig it up to a depth of 50 cm. If the soil is heavy and clayey, it is recommended to add sand when digging. AT sandy soil it is better to make peat.
  • To provide beautiful bloom, flower growers recommend fertilizing the soil with rotted compost at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq.m.
  • Due to the fact that the lily is a perennial plant and usually lives in one place for 3-4 years, it is recommended to apply mineral and organic fertilizers when preparing the soil for planting. This will allow flower growers to provide plants with good fruiting even without additional top dressing in the summer months. Otherwise, plants will need to be subcorked with complex mineral fertilizers at least 2 times a year.

It is important to know! Lilies do not tolerate acidic soil. To reduce acidity, it is recommended to add wood ash at the rate of 200 grams per 1 sq.m. or chalk - 200-500 gr. per 1 sq.m.

planting lilies

When preparing for planting lily bulbs, it is necessary to take into account the fact that plants live in one place for 3-4 years. Therefore, it is recommended to plant them in groups of 3-5 pieces. Remember that frequent transplants slow down the growth of the plant.

As mentioned above, garden lily loves well-lit areas. But, it is worth taking care to provide them with slight shading by planting low annual flowers.

How to properly carry out the process of planting garden lily bulbs - step by step instructions

Before introducing you to the step-by-step instructions for planting lily bulbs in open ground, I would like to note one unwritten rule - the whole process from start to finish must be carried out in a good mood. Flowers like to be sung to and treated with respect. In gratitude for this, they delight their owners with beautiful and long flowering.

So, charged with positive and started the process.

  1. Dig a hole in the previously worked soil 2 bulb heights deep.
  2. The distance between the holes should be at least 15 cm.
  3. Cover the bottom of the hole with gravel and sprinkle with a small amount of soil.
  4. Lay the lily bulb in an upright position, sprinkle with soil and lightly tamp it down.
  5. Form a small depression on top, pour fertilizer and wrap it with soil.
  1. The larger the lily bulb, the deeper it should be planted.
  2. If rodents are found on the site, then it is worth planting the bulbs in special baskets or metal nets that will prevent the penetration of the rodent to the bulb.
  3. To ensure rapid reproduction of lilies, the bulbs should be planted on a barrel, and not in an upright position.
  4. The use of a small amount of wood ash or foundationol contributes to good protection against diseases.

It should be noted that most varieties of lilies do not require warming. But if in your area there is a very low temperature, then you need to cover them for the winter with a layer of foliage, hay or raspberry branches.

Growing lilies from seeds

Another type of lily cultivation is seeds. It is safer and more economical. You should buy planting material in specialized stores or get seeds yourself after flowering, at the moment when the seed box becomes brownish.

Seeds can be sown in seedling boxes or immediately on a garden bed in open ground. In the latter case, it is recommended to select places where bulbous plants have not yet grown.

  1. Weed the soil from weeds and carefully process.
  2. Form beds up to 1 meter wide.
  3. Lines for sowing should be drawn across the beds, keeping a distance of up to 15 cm between them.
  4. You can sow in autumn the varieties Elegant, Martagon and Concor. Slow-germinating varieties are recommended to be sown immediately after harvest.
  5. Cover the beds with a layer of sand and cover for the winter with hay or a layer of leaves.
  6. In the summer, fertilize with organic and mineral fertilizers, ensure regular weeding and weeding.

Important! To speed up the germination process, flower growers recommend mixing lily seeds with sand immediately after harvest. Store such seeds at a temperature of +5 degrees for 3 months, then bury them in the snow for 3 weeks.

Lily Care

Caring for lilies is a pleasant process. Moreover, it provides for periodic weeding, watering and loosening. In the event that fertilizers were not applied to the soil during planting, then in addition to the above, the plant needs to be fed 2-3 times.

Watering lilies is carried out regularly, both before flowering and during flowering. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is always moderately moist. Lilies need to be watered only at the root. If water gets on the leaves, the risk of burns and diseases increases.

The soil around the bulb should always be loose and free of weeds.

Lily breeding

Reproduction of lilies by dividing the bulbs is carried out 1 time in 3-4 years. This process will not only increase the number of plants on your suburban area, but also promotes more beautiful and healthy flowering. With a strong thickening of the lily, the flower will become smaller, it becomes dull, lethargic, and its flowering period is reduced to a minimum. In some cases, a flower may not form at all. After planting, the divided bulbs will bloom in the current season.

Some varieties of lilies can form babies above the main bulb on the stem of the plant. They must be carefully separated from the stem and planted in the ground. Such bulbs will give flowering to the owner only for 2-3 years after planting.

In addition, lilies can also form stem bulbs, which can form in the axils of the leaves. Such bulbs are collected at the end of summer and planted in the ground to a depth of 3-4 cm. To protect them from frost, the planting site must be covered with a layer of leaves or raspberry branches.

The most painstaking method of reproduction of lilies is with scales. To plant the scales, it is necessary to prepare a trench for them, which must be covered with clean sand. The scales must first be treated with a light solution of potassium permanganate, and then planted in the sand, keeping a distance of 5 cm. If the scales are planted in the spring, then by autumn they already form small onions.

Feeding and pruning lilies after flowering

Lilies need to be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers even after flowering. In addition, in order to provide them with the necessary supply of nutrients and strength for the whole winter, they should be watered regularly.

Many are interested in when to prune lilies and what should be taken into account. It is known that the preparation of plants for wintering begins with the cutting of dried flowers. At the same time, it is not recommended to remove the stalks of lilies. The fact is that the stems and leaves are able to supply the bulb of the plant with nutrients even if they have already withered. Cut lilies should be closer to the end of autumn. But pruning is carried out in such a way that the annual roots, which are located at ground level, are preserved. It is they who give the bulb additional nutrition.

findings

As you can see, the garden lily, the process of growing and propagating it is not difficult, and anyone can handle it. To consolidate your knowledge that you have already received from our article, we suggest that you watch an instructive video lesson. Experienced florist will also introduce you to some secrets that will help you get early lily blooms. Good luck to you!

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