Gas burners (on propane, butane): mini for soldering, plumbing and blacksmithing, heating, roofing. Homemade gas burner, do it yourself Do-it-yourself gas burner for a spray can

The purpose of this article is to tell you how to make a gas burner with your own hands. Gas burners in small business, individual technical creativity and in everyday life are used very widely for soldering, plumbing and blacksmithing, roofing, jewelry work, for starting heating appliances on gas and obtaining flames with a temperature of over 1500 degrees for various needs.

IN technological aspect the gas flame is good because it has a high reduction ability (cleanses the surface of the metal from impurities and restores its oxide to pure metal), without showing any noticeably different chemical activity.

In heat engineering, gas is a highly energy-intensive, relatively inexpensive and clean fuel; 1 GJ of gas heat is usually cheaper than from any other energy source, and coking and soot deposition in gas heaters is minimal or absent.

But at the same time, let's repeat the common truth: people don't joke with gas. Gas-burner is not so complicated, but how to achieve its economy and safety - this will be discussed further. With examples of correct technical execution and instructions for making your own.

Choosing gas

With their own hands, an exclusively gas burner is made on propane, butane or a propane-butane mixture, those. on gaseous saturated hydrocarbons, and atmospheric air. When using 100% isobutane (see below), it is possible to achieve flame temperatures up to 2000 degrees.

Acetylene allows you to get a flame temperature of up to 3000 degrees, but due to its danger, the high cost of calcium carbide and the need for pure oxygen as an oxidizing agent, it has practically fallen into disuse and welding work. It is possible to obtain pure hydrogen at home; a hydrogen flame from a pressurized burner (see below) gives temperatures up to 2500 degrees. But the raw material for producing hydrogen is expensive and unsafe (one of the components is a strong acid), but the main thing is that hydrogen is not noticeable by smell and taste, it makes no sense to add a mercaptan flavor to it, because hydrogen spreads an order of magnitude faster, and its admixture with air in only 4% already gives explosive explosive gas, and its ignition can occur simply in the light.

Methane not used in domestic gas burners for similar reasons; in addition, it is highly poisonous. As for the vapors of flammable liquids, pyrolysis gases and biogas, when burned in gas burners, they give a not very clean flame with a temperature below 1100 degrees. Flammable liquids of medium and lower volatility (from gasoline to fuel oil) are burned in special liquid burners, for example, in burners for diesel fuel; alcohols - in low-power flame devices, and ethers do not burn at all - they are low-energy, but very dangerous.

How to achieve security

To make a gas burner safe to use and not wasting fuel, the golden rule should be taken: no scaling and no changes to the prototype drawings at all!

Here the matter is in the so-called. the Reynolds number Re, showing the relationship between the flow rate, density, viscosity of the current medium and the characteristic size of the area in which it moves, for example. diameter cross section pipes. According to Re, one can judge the presence of turbulence in the flow and its nature. If, for example, the pipe is not round and both of its characteristic dimensions are greater than some critical value, then vortices of the 2nd and higher orders will appear. Physically distinguished walls of the "pipe" may not be, for example, in sea currents, but many of their "tricks" are explained precisely by the transition of Re through critical values.

Note: just in case, for reference - for gases, the value of the Reynolds number, at which the laminar flow turns into turbulent, is Re> 2000 (in the SI system).

Not all homemade gas burners are accurately calculated according to the laws of gas dynamics. But, if the dimensions of parts of a successful design are arbitrarily changed, then the Re of fuel or sucked air can jump beyond the limits that it adhered to in the author's product, and the burner will become best case smoky and voracious, and, quite possibly, dangerous.

Injector diameter

The determining parameter for the quality of a gas burner is the cross-sectional diameter of its fuel injector (gas nozzle, nozzle, jet - synonyms). For propane-butane burners at a normal temperature (1000-1300 degrees), it can be approximately taken as follows:

For thermal power up to 100 W - 0.15-0.2 mm.
For a power of 100-300 W - 0.25-0.35 mm.
For a power of 300-500 W - 0.35-0.45 mm.
For a power of 500-1000 W - 0.45-0.6 mm.
For a power of 1-3 kW - 0.6-0.7 mm.
For a power of 3-7 kW - 0.7-0.9 mm.
For a power of 7-10 kW - 0.9-1.1 mm.

In high-temperature burners, the injectors are made narrower, 0.06-0.15 mm. Excellent material for the injector, a piece of needle for a medical syringe or dropper will serve; from them it is possible to pick up a nozzle on any of the specified diameters. Needles for inflating balls are worse, they are not heat resistant. They are used more like air ducts in supercharged micro-burners, see below. In the clip (capsule) of the injector, it is soldered with hard solder or glued with heat-resistant glue (cold welding).

Power

In no case should you make a gas burner with a power of more than 10 kW. Why? Let's say the efficiency of the burner is 95%; for an amateur design, this is a very good indicator. If the burner power is 1 kW, then it will take 50 watts to self-heat the burner. About 50 W soldering iron can get burned, but it does not threaten an accident. But if you make a 20 kW burner, then 1 kW will be superfluous, this is an iron or electric stove already left unattended. The danger is aggravated by the fact that its manifestation, like the Reynolds numbers, is threshold - either just hot, or flashes, melts, explodes. Therefore, it is better not to look for drawings of a home-made burner for more than 7-8 kW.

Note: industrial gas burners are produced with a capacity of up to many MW, but this is achieved by precise profiling of the gas barrel, which is impossible at home; see one example below.

fittings

The third factor determining the safety of the burner is the composition of its fittings and the manner in which it is used. IN general scheme is:

In no case should the burner be extinguished with a control valve, the fuel supply is stopped with a valve on the cylinder;
For burners with a power of up to 500-700 W and high-temperature ones (with a narrow injector that excludes the transition of the gas flow Re beyond the critical value), fed by propane or isobutane from a cylinder up to 5 l at outdoor temperature up to 30 degrees, it is permissible to combine the control and shut-off valves in one - regular on the cylinder;
In burners with a power of more than 3 kW (with a wide injector), or powered by a cylinder of more than 5 liters, the probability of Re overshoot over 2000 is very high. Therefore, in such burners, between the shut-off and control valves, a gearbox is also required to maintain pressure in the supply gas pipeline within certain limits.

What to do?

Gas burners of low power for everyday life and small-scale private production are classified according to performance indicators as follows. way:

High-temperature - for precision welding, jewelry and glass work. Efficiency is not important, it is necessary to achieve the maximum flame temperature for a given fuel.
Technological - for metalwork and blacksmithing. The flame temperature is highly desirable not lower than 1200 degrees, and subject to this condition, the burner is brought to maximum efficiency.
Heating and roofing - achieve the best efficiency. The flame temperature is usually up to 1100 degrees or lower.

Regarding the method of fuel combustion, a gas burner can be made according to one of the following. schemes:

Free-atmospheric.
Atmospheric ejection.
Supercharged.

atmospheric

In free-atmospheric burners, the gas burns in free space; air flow is provided by free convection. Such burners are uneconomical, the flame is red, smoky, dancing and beating. They are of interest, firstly, because the excess supply of gas or insufficient air any other burner can be switched to free-atmospheric mode. It is in it that the burners are set on fire - at a minimum of fuel supply and even less air flow. Secondly, the free flow of secondary air can be very useful in the so-called. one and a half circuit burners for heating, because greatly simplifies their design without sacrificing safety, see below.

ejection

In ejection burners, at least 40% of the air required for fuel combustion is sucked in by the gas flow from the injector. Ejection burners are structurally simple and allow you to get a flame with a temperature of up to 1500 degrees with an efficiency of over 95%, therefore they are used most widely, but cannot be made modulating, see below. According to the use of air, ejection burners are divided into:

Single-circuit - all the necessary air is sucked in at once. With a properly profiled gas duct, over 10kW of power show an efficiency of over 99%. With your own hands are not repeatable.
Dual circuit - approx. 50% of the air is sucked in by the injector, the rest goes into the combustion chamber and/or afterburner. They allow you to get either a flame of 1300-1500 degrees, or a CPL of over 95% and a flame of up to 1200 degrees. Used in any of the above ways. Structurally quite complex, but repeatable on their own.
One and a half circuit, often also called double circuit - the primary air is sucked in by the flow from the injector, and the secondary freely enters a limited volume (for example, a furnace furnace), in which the fuel burns out. Only single-mode (see below), but structurally simple, therefore widely used for temporary launch heating stoves and gas boilers.

supercharged

In pressurized burners, all air, both primary and secondary, is forced into the combustion zone of the fuel. The simplest supercharged micro burner for bench soldering, jewelry and glass work can be made by yourself (see below), but making a supercharged heating burner requires a solid manufacturing base. But it is the pressurized burners that make it possible to realize all the possibilities of controlling the combustion mode; According to the terms of use, they are divided into:

Single mode;
dual mode;
Modulated.

Combustion control

In single-mode burners, the fuel combustion mode is either determined once and for all constructively (for example, in industrial burners for annealing furnaces), or set manually, for which the burner must either be turned off or the technological cycle must be interrupted with its use. Two-stage burners usually operate at full or half power. The transition from mode to mode is carried out in the course of work or use. Heating burners (winter - spring / autumn) or roofing burners are made dual-mode.

In modulating burners, the supply of fuel and air is smoothly and continuously regulated by automation, which works out according to a set of critical initial parameters. For example, for a heating burner - according to the ratio of temperatures in the room, outdoor and coolant in the return. One output parameter is possible ( minimum flow gas, the highest flame temperature) or there may also be several of them, for example, when the flame temperature is at the upper limit, fuel consumption is minimized, and when it falls, the temperature is optimized for this process.

Design examples

Understanding the designs of gas burners, let's take the path of increasing power, this will allow us to better understand the material. And from the very beginning we will get acquainted with such an important circumstance as boost.

Mini from a can

It is well known how a single-mode mini gas burner for desktop work powered by a lighter refilling cartridge works: these are 2 needles inserted into each other, pos. And in Fig.:

Supercharging - from aquarium compressor. Since it gives a noticeably pulsating flow under water without the resistance of the atomizer, a receiver of 5 liters of baklag is needed. Soda is not available in these, so the receiver plug will need to be additionally sealed with raw rubber, silicone or just plasticine. If you take a compressor for an aquarium of 600 liters or more, and the fuel is 100% isobutane (such cartridges are more expensive than usual), you can get a flame of over 1500 degrees.

The stumbling blocks in the repetition of this design, firstly, the adjustment of the gas supply. There are no problems with air - its supply is set by a standard compressor regulator. But adjusting the gas by bending the hose is very rough, and the regulator from the dropper quickly fails, it is disposable with it. Secondly, pairing the burner with the cartridge - in order for its valve to open, you need to press on the filling fitting

The first, the node shown in pos. will help solve problems. B; make it from the same pair of needles. First you need to pick up a piece of the tube for the sleeve, with a little effort fitting onto the nozzle of the can, and then, also with a little effort, push it into the cannula of the needle; it may need to be drilled out a bit. But the sleeve should not hang out either on the fitting or in the cannula separately.

Then we make a clip for the can with an adjusting screw (pos. B), insert the can, put the regulator on the fitting according to pos. B, and turn the screw until the desired gas supply is obtained. The adjustment is very precise, literally microscopic.

Soldering torches

The easiest way to make a soldering torch is approx. by 0.5-1 kW, if you have any gas valve available: an oxygen valve of the VK series, from an old autogen (the acetylene barrel is muffled), etc. One of the options for the design of a soldering torch based on a gas valve is shown in Fig.

Its peculiarity is the minimum number of turned parts, and even those can be selected ready-made, and there are quite wide possibilities for adjusting the flame by moving nozzle 11. The material of parts 7-12 is quite heat-resistant steel; in this case, the relatively inexpensive St45 is suitable, because. the flame temperature due to the complete absence of profiling of the gas channel and ejector windows (which do not exist as such) will not exceed 800-900 degrees. Also, due to the fact that this burner is single-circuit, it is rather voracious.

Dual circuit

A double-circuit gas burner for soldering is much more economical and allows you to get a flame up to 1200-1300 degrees. Examples of structures of this kind with power supply from a 5 l cylinder are given in Fig.

Burner on the left - for a power of approx. 1 kW, therefore, it consists of only 3 parts, not counting the gas barrel and handle, so a separate valve for adjusting the flame is not required. If desired, you can make interchangeable injector capsules for lower power; fuel consumption at low power will drop quite noticeably. The simplicity of the design in this case was achieved due to the use of a scheme with incomplete separation of air circuits: all air is sucked in through the holes in the housing, but part of it is carried away by the burning gas jet through a hole with a diameter of 12 mm into the afterburner.

Incomplete separation of the air circuits does not allow reaching a power of more than 1.2-1.3 kW: Re in the combustion chamber jumps “above the roof”, which causes combustion with pops up to an explosion, if you try to adjust the flame by giving gas. Therefore, without experience, it is better to put the injector into this burner 0.3-0.4 mm.

The burner with complete separation of air circuits, the drawings of which are given on the right in the figure, develops power up to several kW. Therefore, in its fittings, in addition to the shut-off valve on the cylinder, a control valve is also required. Together with the sliding primary ejector, it makes it possible to regulate the flame temperature within a fairly wide range, maintaining its minimum flow rate at a given power. In practice, having set the flame of the desired strength with a valve, the primary ejector is moved until a narrow blue jet (very hot) or a wide yellowish jet (not so hot) goes on.

For the forge and forge

Double-circuit torch with full separation of circuits, also suitable for blacksmithing. For example, how to build a horn from improvised materials for the one just described in 10-15 minutes, see the video:

Video: gas horn in 10 minutes

A metalwork-forge gas burner specifically for a forge can also be built according to a complete two-circuit scheme, see next. video clip.

Video: do-it-yourself gas burner for a forge

And finally, a mini gas burner can also heat a small tabletop horn; how to make them together yourself, see:

Video: do-it-yourself mini-horn at home

For fine work

Here in fig. drawings of a gas burner with a built-in control valve for particularly precise and demanding work are given. Its feature is a massive combustion chamber with cooling fins. Due to this, firstly, thermal deformations of the burner parts are reduced. Secondly, random jumps in the supply of gas and air practically do not affect the temperature in the combustion chamber. As a result, the set flame long time stays very stable.

high temperature

Finally, consider a burner designed to produce a flame of the highest possible temperature - on 100% isobutane naturally aspirated, this burner gives a flame with a temperature of more than 1500 degrees - it cuts sheet steel, melts any jewelry alloys in a mini crucible and softens any silicate glass, except quartz. A good injector for this burner is obtained from a needle from an insulin syringe.

Heating

If you are planning to switch your old stove or boiler from wood-coal to gas once and for all, then you have no other choice but to purchase a modulating supercharged burner, pos. 1 in fig. Otherwise, any savings on homemade products will soon be eaten up by excessive fuel consumption.

In the case when heating requires more than 12-15 kW of power and, in addition, there is a person who is ready and able to take on the duties of a stoker who regulates the gas supply according to the outside temperature, a double-circuit atmospheric burner for a boiler will be a cheaper option, the device diagram of which is given in pos. . 2. The so-called. Saratov burners, pos. 3; they are produced for a wide range of capacities, and have been successfully used in heat engineering for a long time.

If you need to stay on gas for a while, for example, until the end heating season, and then start a reconstruction of the heating system, or run on gas, for example, a country or bath stove, then for this a one and a half-loop gas burner for the stove can be made with your own hands. The scheme of its structure and operation is given in pos. 4. An indispensable condition - the furnace of the heater must be with a blower: if secondary air is allowed into the gap between the throat of the furnace and the burner body, fuel consumption will increase significantly. A drawing of a one and a half circuit gas burner for a furnace with a power of up to 10-12 kW is given in pos. five; oblong openings for primary air intake must be outside!

Roofing

A gas burner for roofing with modern built-up materials (roofing lamp) must be dual-mode: the underlying surface is heated at half power, and the coating is deposited at full power after the roll is unrolled. Delay is unacceptable here, so it is impossible to waste time on readjusting the burner (which is possible only after it has cooled down).

Roof gas burner device industrial production shown on the left in Fig. It is double-circuit according to the scheme with incomplete separation of circuits. In this case, such a solution is acceptable, because The burner runs at full power for approx. 20% of the process cycle time and is operated by trained personnel outdoors.

The most complex roof lamp assembly, which is unlikely to be repeated at home, is the power switching valve. However, it is possible to do without it at the cost of a slight increase in fuel consumption. If you are a master wagon and roofing works If you do it occasionally, then the decrease in profitability due to this will not be noticeable.

Technically this decision can be implemented in a burner with coupled air circuit pairs, see right in fig. The transition from mode to mode is carried out either by installing / removing the body of internal circuits, or simply by moving the lamp in height, because the operating mode of such a burner is highly dependent on the backpressure at the exhaust. To warm the underlying surface, the lamp is taken away from it, then a powerful wide stream of not excessively hot gases will come out of the nozzle. And for surfacing, the lamp is brought closer: a wide “pancake” of flame will spread over the roofing material.

Finally

In this article, only selected examples of gas burners are considered. Total number their designs only for the "home" power range up to 15-20 kW are hundreds, if not thousands. But let's hope that some of the ones described here will come in handy for you.

Any tourist, fisherman, hunter or just a lover of travel and outdoor recreation away from civilization will need an alcohol burner, with which you can cook food or boil water. It can be made independently from the simplest materials at hand. And this process will take quite a bit of time.

How to make a burner with your own hands?

List of materials needed for the manufacture:

Two cans(you can use beer cans or soda cans);
. cutting object (scissors, knife);
. hammer;
. sharp object (awl, large needle, button);
. sorbitol, broadrickite or sand;
. fuel (ethyl alcohol 96%, any grade);
. fire source;
. screwdriver and screw;
. ruler with marker.

1. It is necessary to take two cans and make marks 3.5 cm from the bottom with a felt-tip pen. You can use a rubber band.

2. Make 16-20 small holes around the perimeter of one of the cans, using, for example, an awl and a hammer. Holes should be made at the same distance. You need to be careful not to accidentally injure your fingers. Holes should be kept as small as possible. This will help you save fuel. And the flame will turn out good and bright.

4. According to the prepared markings, cut the cans, trying not to bend them. You can use a knife or scissors.

6. The bottom is filled with a filler that absorbs fuel, for example, sorbitol or broadrickite. Sand will work too. Fillers can be purchased at specialty horticultural stores. The filler is necessary for even fuel consumption.

7. The burner needs to be assembled. An element without holes is inserted into the part of the jar with prepared nozzles. The screw should be unscrewed and fuel should be poured into upper part until it is 1/4 - 1/2 full (during application you will determine what volume of alcohol is optimal for boiling the right amount water). The screw is screwed back.

8. A little fuel is poured into the recess and onto the nozzles, and ignited in the recess at the top. Due to the heat, the alcohol will evaporate and burn. The flame will increase after it warms up. You should remember the rules of fire safety.

9. The burner is ready to use! Such a burner will always come in handy on a hike, when there is nowhere to get firewood to make a fire. The burner will help out not only on fishing or hunting. It can also be used at home if the gas is suddenly turned off. A burner of this type can boil half a liter of water in about seven minutes. This time should be enough to brew tasty tea or steam something from fast food.

Video. How to make a burner from a jar.

Modification heating equipment, and simply speaking - its improvement is necessary to increase work efficiency. Maintenance of solid fuel boilers, constant monitoring of the level of firewood or coal in the furnace sometimes pushes the owners to solve non-standard tasks. If it becomes possible to connect the house to the gas main, but there is no desire to buy a new special boiler, they begin to invent homemade devices water heating heating equipment.

It is necessary to immediately make a reservation that any handicraft products intended for heating systems must pass a series of checks, namely:

Obtaining a quality certificate.
Permits from gosgortekhnadzor.
Checking the design for compliance with quality and operation parameters.

Collecting this documentation will take a lot of time and effort. Therefore, it is much more profitable to purchase a factory gas burner for the boiler. But if the desire to assemble and test the product own production great, you can make a gas burner with your own hands.

The principle of operation of a gas burner

There are several types of burners, which may differ in design and principle of operation. For heating boilers, the following types are most often installed:

Atmospheric - with an open combustion chamber.
With forced air supply - with a closed chamber.

For self-manufacturing the 1st type of burner is suitable, since it is much simpler structurally and can be made from improvised materials.

The operation of a gas burner is based on the mixing of a dense flow natural gas And atmospheric air. The principle of operation is clearly shown in the figure:

For manufacturing you will need:

The valve from the oxygen cylinder - it will serve as the basis of the nozzle. You can take the common VK-74.
To form a narrowly directed gas jet, it is necessary to make a cap that will be screwed onto the valve. A hole is made in it and a jet is inserted (it can be from a blowtorch).
The injector is made from steel pipe, up to 2 mm thick. Its length is approximately 100 mm. Fastening is done by welding with steel wire. In this case, a certain distance must be observed between the cap and the nozzle for air to enter the combustion zone.
To activate the flame, you can install a piezoelectric element, or ignite with a match or burning paper.

Gas atmospheric burner is ready. Next, a base is made on which it will be attached for installation in the combustion chamber of the boiler. It should be borne in mind that the hole should not be completely closed - air will flow through it to maintain the combustion process.

But can it be used with the same comfort and safety as the factory one? To find out, consider all the design flaws:

No required sensors. The most important of these is flame control. If for some reason the fire goes out, and the gas continues to flow into the nozzle, spontaneous combustion may occur. You also need a draft control sensor in the boiler, which controls the air flow.
Temperature sensor. It indicates the boundaries temperature conditions, non-observance of which can lead to a quick failure of not only the burner, but also the boiler.
To set up the operation of the burner under gas pressure from the central line, appropriate experience and special equipment are needed.
The absence of a mechanism for regulating the pressure of the gas entering the burner. With a pressure drop in gas pipeline the power of the flame changes, which again leads to possible breakdowns and defects.

But not only the design of the burner can suffer from the above factors - this also applies to the boiler itself. Each model of heating equipment is designed for certain operating conditions. If the manufacturer indicates that this one can be adapted to the operation of a gas burner with forced air supply with power parameters up to 30 kW and with the installation of an additional fan to create draft, then other conditions may lead to its breakdown.

If you want to make a homemade burner for a particular boiler, you need to weigh the pros and cons. Is it worth risking expensive equipment, your safety and your loved ones?

Do you want to learn how to make a burner with your own hands at home? I offer 2 instructions at once: assembling a conventional burner for styling roofing materials and manufacture of high temperature cutting torch. Having made tools according to the proposed schemes, you can heat roofing bitumen, melt tin and cut fusible metals.

Gas-burner(acetylene or propane) is a tool with which you can get a flame with a variable flame temperature and flame size;

conventional propane torch- this is a nozzle with a regulator connected to a gas supply under pressure;
Acetylene torch- This is a cutter for which an oxy-fuel mixture is used.

Using gas under pressure as a fuel, it will not be possible to obtain a high temperature. But, if you mix propane with oxygen, the temperature of the flame increases significantly.

The figure shows two types of burners:

Injection- oxygen due to more high pressure sucks gas and directs to the mixer;
Injectorless- oxygen and gas are supplied separately, but with the same pressure.

Non-injector cutters are structurally simpler than injector burners. But injection cutters, due to the high pressure of the fuel mixture, are used in welding and cutting metals.

There is also an infrared gas burner, but it does not apply to cutting tools and to heaters. A heating element for uniform distribution of heat, it is located with the emitter to the top and transforms thermal energy in infrared radiation. Adjustment of temperature and intensity of heating is carried out by the adjusting gate.

We assemble a burner for laying roofing felt in 10 minutes

For assembly you will need:

Nozzle and faucet with the old gas stove(both parts can be purchased at construction market. The price is cheap);
gas cylinder(you can get by with a camping cylinder with a volume of 10-20 liters);
Connecting hose with slip-on clamps.

Illustration	Stage description
	Connecting the nozzle to the faucet. We connect the valve through the nozzle to the nozzle.
	Connecting gas bottle with torch hose. The connections must be tightened with collar clamps.
	Trial run. With the tap on the burner closed, open the supply from the cylinder. We bring a lit match to the nozzle and open the gas supply valve.
	Torch adjustment. The flame flow is regulated by turning the tap: counterclockwise - more, clockwise - less.

A homemade gas burner is no worse than a purchased tool in terms of efficiency and safety of use. I am sure that the tool, assembled according to the proposed instructions, will be useful to you.

Assembling a portable cutter for the home workshop

This compact tool, despite its low power, gives a flame with a temperature of up to +1000°C. To make a gas burner at home, we need the following materials:

Pumping needle for inflating balls;
A thin needle from a disposable syringe;
Plastic bottle with a volume of 1.5-2 liters;
Two sets of droppers with clips;
Copper wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm;
Flux and accessories for soldering;
Nipple from a bicycle or car camera;
Hot glue and gun.

On the wiring diagram the torch of a portable non-injector torch is shown. Next, I’ll tell you how to make a tool with your own hands according to the proposed scheme.

Illustration	Stage description
	Making a hole in the needle. Stepping back from the end of the needle 10 mm, we make a transverse incision with a triangular file, so that a small hole forms.
	We bend the needle. The needle from the syringe, with the help of pliers, is bent at an angle of 135 °. We try to work carefully so as not to pinch or deform the through channel in the needle
	We grind the sharp edge of the needle. We grind the curved needle on a file or grindstone, so that there is no point left. The length of the needle section from the fold to the ground end should be equal to the length from the end of the thick needle to the hole made in it.
	We connect the needles in one knot. A thin bent needle is pushed into the hole. As a result, the end of a thin needle should protrude from a thick needle by no more than 1 mm.
	Winding copper wire. The area where the thin needle enters through the side hole into the thick needle is wound copper wire. We make the winding turns as close as possible to each other.
	Flux processing. We process the winding made with flux before soldering. Do not use rosin, as when working with flux, the solder sticks better.
	Soldering. We solder the wire winding with tin solder. We heat the turns with a soldering iron so that the solder passes to the needle. As a result, the soldered area of \u200b\u200bthe connection of the needles must be completely sealed.
	We connect the assembled mixer. We connect 2 dropper tubes to the previously assembled assembly. One tube is connected to a thin needle and the other to a thick needle. On the dropper tubes, next to the mixer, we put on clamps, one for each tube.
	We fix the clamps. We glue the clamps together with hot glue, so that the adjusting rollers are located on the outside. Glued clips can be color coded. For example, the clamp that is responsible for the tube connected to the thick needle will regulate the gas supply. This clip can be marked in red. The second clamp, which will shut off the air supply, can be marked in blue
	Joint sealing. We glue the soldering area and the dropper connection areas with hot glue. Thus, we will ensure the tightness of all connections.
	We pass the dropper tube through the plastic cap. A hole is drilled in the cork of a can for refilling lighters along the diameter of the dropper tube. A tube is threaded into the hole.
	We connect the handset. One of the nozzles that comes with the gas cartridge is tightly inserted into the tube. We pull the dropper tube through the stopper. We do this so that the nozzle fixed on the tube rests against the opposite side of the cork.
	We apply sealant. We seal and strengthen the connection with hot glue. Now, if you put the cork on the cylinder, the nozzle will press on the fitting and the gas supply will begin.
	Installing the compressed air connection. At the bottom of a plastic bottle with a volume of 1.5-2 liters, we fix a metal pipe with a check valve. As a pipe, you can use a nipple from an old bicycle or car camera.
	Installing the burner connector. We attach a connecting pipe to the cork of the bottle to connect the dropper from the burner.

The burner, receiver and connecting hoses are ready, it remains to connect all the elements together.

Tube off cap gas spray connect to a thick needle. We connect the tube from the receiver bottle to a thin needle.

We attach the pump to the receiver nipple and pump up 2-3 atmospheres. If there is no pressure gauge on the pump, pump according to the sensations. We put a cap with a tube on the gas cylinder.

The do-it-yourself burner is assembled and ready for use. How to use it?

We loosen the clamp on the gas supply;
Ignite the gas from the end of the needle;
Gradually loosening the clamp with air, we get the same flame as in the photo.

Conclusion

Now you know how to make a burner with your own hands. Still have questions about the suggested instructions? Tell us in the comments about what was not clear - I guarantee explanations. By the way, do not forget to watch the video in this article, I'm sure you will be interested.

What is a gas burner? Many people are interested in the exact answer to this question. In short, this is a homemade propane device that has a huge number of advantages over its counterparts. In this article, we will try to understand exactly everything related to a home-made gas burner, and also answer the question “How to make a gas burner with your own hands?”

First, I would like to point out Key Features of this design. These include:

extremely easy to use;
no unpleasant and harmful odors, traces of soot and the like;
compactness that allows you to use a gas burner almost anywhere.

The homemade gas burner device includes:

metal case;
reducer;
nozzle;
fuel supply regulator;
head;
knot for fixing the gas cylinder.

The metal case includes a special glass with which the mechanism gets rid of the possibility of blowing out the flame. It also includes a metal or other handle that does not exceed 100 centimeters. A wooden holder and a gas hose are installed on top of the handle. With the help of a reducer and a tube with a valve, the level of gas supply is regulated, as well as its length, respectively. The nozzle is used to ignite the fuel, in this case the last one is propane.

Type of fuel used by the burner

As mentioned earlier, a gas burner is also called a propane burner. From this it is easy to conclude that, as a rule, it is propane or a mixture of propane and butane that is used as fuel.

With this fuel filling a special bottle which is attached to the burner.

Do-it-yourself gas burner production

As you could understand from the list of elements of the entire fixture design, it is extremely simple and does not have any complex details that you need to spend a lot of time on.

In order to make the unit with your own hands, it will take a little time and effort. And if you correctly study the material presented in this article, as well as approach the process with all seriousness and accuracy (since work is being done with flammable substances), then it will certainly be completed.

As practice and many live examples show, on average, a person who has never created home-made gas burners, 40-45 minutes after reading the instructions, was already able to boast of a do-it-yourself burner.

How to make a gas burner with your own hands

Here we come to the most interesting process. To the manufacture of the burner. The whole process of creating this unit will be described in detail below, taking into account all the nuances and tips.

So, you should start with the simplest, but no less interesting. Since the manufacture of the burner handle. In principle, any material can be used. By the way, it would be more reasonable to just use a ready-made handle from some old and unnecessary soldering iron. The inlet tube is made entirely of steel.

Do not forget to pay great attention to the dimensions of all the details. For example, the diameter of the burner inlet tube should not exceed one centimeter, and its thickness should fluctuate around 2 - 2.5 mm. This tube is inserted into the handle and fixed with glue or other quality material suitable for this purpose.

Frame

The body of the burner, oddly enough, is also made of steel. It is best to use a brass rod, the width of which should be approximately 2 centimeters. The divider can also be made from it.

Next, several holes are made in order to create oxygen circulation in the unit. After all, as everyone knows: fire cannot exist without oxygen. In the total number of such holes there should be four: each with a diameter of about 1 millimeter. They are made in the very core of the burner divider.

The next step is to forcefully press the divider, with which work was carried out a little earlier, into the body of the gas fixture. The inner flange must be installed with some clearance of about half a centimeter. With the help of this gap, in the future, a huge flow of gas suitable for the igniter will be inhibited.

Nozzle

As mentioned earlier, with the help of a nozzle, fuel is supplied, namely, propane, from its cylinder to the outside. To make it, use special metal rod. Here you will need a 2 mm drill in order to do blind hole in the nozzle. For the jumper, we need a 4 mm drill. The holes made are hammered, and then they are undermined with the help of everyone's favorite sandpaper.

After that, a hose from the gearbox is mounted on the end of the tube, which must be made of special rubber and fabric material. Fastening takes place with a conventional clamp using an ordinary screwdriver.

After the mechanism, in your opinion, is correctly fixed, it is necessary to set optimal tank pressure and apply gas from it. The air from the hose must then be completely expelled. The length of the fire with the correct location and operation of all parts should be about 40-50 mm.

In general, as mentioned earlier, a homemade gas burner is a rather unique tool that will come to the aid of any owner in any unpleasant everyday situations. And the maximum ease of its production can only attract all priorities to itself even more strongly.

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