We make a spiral grater with our own hands. Life hack for bachelors and students: how to make a cheese grater from a tin can Making a simple do-it-yourself food cutter

Grinding even a dozen carrots on a manual grater is a laborious task, but if you need to prepare pet food, process a lot of vegetables and fruits? I got out of the situation with a simple electric grater. I used an electric motor with a power of about 200 W, with a nominal shaft speed of 1400 rpm. (A motor from a household electric grinder is quite suitable; you can also use a three-phase asynchronous one, with a capacitor circuit for connecting to a single-phase network.)

The working body of the grater is a round steel disc with a thickness of 1.5 and an outer Ø300 mm. The cutting edges in the disc are formed by extruding the edges of holes Ø8 mm drilled in the disc in mutually perpendicular directions. Each row contains 5 holes spaced 16 mm apart, and offset in the radial direction with respect to the adjacent row by 1/2 interval. Thus, two groups of cutting edges are obtained, completely covering the working area with a width of 80 mm. To obtain a different degree of grinding, a disc with holes of a different diameter will be required. The rigidity of the disk in the axial direction is reinforced by double rolling of the edge, and from the back side by the radial installation of four steel or duralumin corners.

It is more convenient to fix the disk on the motor shaft on the landing sleeve. Four short bolts are screwed into its flange from the inside, on the cylindrical shanks of which, like pins, a grating disk is mounted. The sleeve is fixed on the shaft with a radial bolt, the shank entering the keyway, and the axial bolt through the clamping washer. The direction of rotation of the motor shaft is counterclockwise.

1 - loading wedge, 2 - hopper, 3 - front side of the casing, 4 - connecting strip of the casing, 5 - grater disk, 6 - bearing sidewall of the casing, 7 - electric motor, 8 - table, 9 - cutter

1 - hopper, 2 - loading wedge, 3 - sidewall, 4 - casing, 5 - bearing sidewall of the casing, 6 - motor flange, 7 - stiffening angle, 8 - grater disc, 9 - disc mounting bolt (4 pcs.), 10 - radial bolt fixing the bushing, 11 - axial bolt, 12 - motor shaft, 13 - disc washer, 14 - bushing.

The casing of the grater consists of two plywood plates 10 mm thick, a hole for the shaft is cut in one of them, and a loading window in the second. The latter goes into a bunker, bent from a metal sheet, and equipped with a wooden wedge - for the safe supply of root crops to a rotating disk. The sides of the casing are connected along the perimeter with a metal strip so that an exit window is formed from below.

It is best to mount the casing directly on the engine housing, but if it does not have a mounting flange, then the bearing sidewall should be firmly fixed on the horizontal engine support - a small stable table. On his working board it is useful to attach a cutter for preliminary grinding of fruits.

Graters for plaster - varieties

Repairs require a large number of tools, especially for finishing work. And no matter what material with finishing technology for walls and ceilings is chosen, in most cases one cannot do without such a device as a plaster grater.

Doorways, surfaces of ceilings and walls, and sometimes the floor, this is not the whole list of finishing works where graters for plaster are used. And although the design of this tool for plastering is simple and straightforward, you should know something about working with it, and you may even need to do it yourself.

Today, a wide variety of plaster graters can be found on sale, their types are numerous, and the materials from which they are made can be different. And if earlier graters for plaster were made mainly from a piece of a flat board, today there are: foam, sponge, polyurethane graters, rubber, metal and many others.

In addition, some novice plasterers confuse a trowel for plaster with a trowel, but this is a mistake, since a trowel is needed to apply the plaster mixture, and a grater, on the contrary, is needed to rub it after drying.

As mentioned above, today you can buy graters for plaster of various types, made from the following materials:

1. Styrofoam;
2. polyurethane;
3. Tree;
4. metal;
5. Latex, rubber and other materials.

What kind of grater for plaster should be preferred in this case? In fact, this is not an easy question, since everything largely depends on the skills and experience with this tool. And if an experienced plasterer is given even an ordinary wooden grater, then it will not be difficult for him to perform the most difficult work with it.

For the same people who take their first plaster float in their hands, the best option would be a polyurethane float. Graters for plaster made of polyurethane have increased strength, unlike foam graters, they are also more durable.

The very same working surface of polyurethane graters is soft, which, unlike a wooden surface, makes it more convenient and easy to perform plastering work with it.

In addition, there are also plaster trowels made of foam, sponge and rubber. You should know that spongy plaster floats are designed for decorative work, and plaster floats made of rubber will allow you to smooth the surface of the walls as smoothly as possible.

The most common budget option for plaster graters is made of foam. The service life of the foam grater is small, since its surface does not have sufficient strength. However, the small price has done its job, and foam trowels for plaster are the most popular today.

And although today it will not be absolutely no problem to buy a grater for plaster, you should know that it is very easy to make this tool with your own hands. A do-it-yourself grater for plaster is made from a piece of polystyrene, but it is still better to use extruded polystyrene foam for these purposes, many call it a simple word - pumpan.

Also, a do-it-yourself grater for plaster can be made from a flat board. The main thing, when screwing the handle with a self-tapping screw to a home-made grater for plaster, is to make sure that the screw head does not protrude on the working surface. Otherwise, it will not work to perform high-quality grouting with such a grater for plaster.

The kitchen is a creative place, but it still requires order. Agree: the cooking process moves much faster when you clearly know where everything is and you don’t have to fish out “working tools” from under a pile of rubbish. But all the same, sooner or later it turns out that something is missing in her kitchen. If you are a student or an avid bachelor, far from culinary delights, we can assume what is not in your kitchen: graters, for example. But with the same success we will make the assumption that there is definitely there: a can of beer in the refrigerator. Or, at least, cola. The good news is that these things turn out to be (relatively) interchangeable. See for yourself!

Unexpected inspiration and an empty stomach make you rush to the kitchen and cook mouth-watering spaghetti with cheese or homemade pizza? Perfectly! In the process, it turns out that the cheese is bought, but there is no grater? It's not a problem either. After all, you can make a completely functional grater almost out of garbage. For example, from an empty tin can.

To quickly make a cheese grater, find at home:
1. Can of carbonated drinks;
2. Nail;
3. Cheese

Step 1

Clean the tin from the remnants of the drink, rinse thoroughly and dry.

Step 2

For convenience, cut off the top of the jar. You can also cut off the bottom if you don’t want to get the remnants of grated products from the tin after. Although it will certainly save your work-kitchen space from attacking crumbs.

Step 3

Use a nail or other sharp object to make holes on one side of the jar. Then insert a nail in turn into each of the holes at an angle (as in the photo) and sharpen its edges. For this purpose, it is even easier and more effective to use a nail file.

Step 4

Now grab your cheese and try out your cool DIY grater in action!

A can of beer or soda is generally a lifesaver for everyone whose hands grow from the right place. You probably don't even know what.

A household vegetable chopper is able to process any succulent feed into a homogeneous mass, which can be used as an independent feed or as part of a mash. Prices for a feed cutter start at 3,500 rubles, but despite the availability, many farmers prefer to collect it on their own.

A do-it-yourself device does not differ in functionality or performance from a store-bought counterpart. The cost of such a feed chopper will be lower - it is made from materials available in each household. The cost of replacement parts will also be lower.

The basic model is designed for processing vegetables, root crops and fruits. If you have an additional set of figured double-edged knives, then the device is also used for grinding grass, hay and needles.

It is necessary to load grass into the working chamber in small portions, otherwise clogging of the engine cannot be avoided.

When working with a homemade electric feed cutter, you must follow the safety precautions:

• Stop work immediately if smoke or sparks appear,
• Do not leave a working feed cutter unattended,
• Be careful when loading vegetables into the oven,
• Do not touch the working shaft of the switched on device,
• Disassemble and wash the feed cutter only after disconnecting from the mains.

Types of homemade vegetable choppers

Manual feed cutter

To prepare feed for several cows, chickens or piglets, you can use a simple version of a vegetable cutter. The device works on the principle of a grater, but differs in productivity: it can be used to process up to 10 liters of vegetables or fruits in 10-15 minutes.

As a grater, an ordinary galvanized bucket with a volume of 10-12 liters is used. The bow is beaten off from it and the bottom is cut out, and holes are made in the walls. The edges should be as sharp as possible, and the dimensions should be from 0.2 to 1 cm. The grater will be more effective if you punch holes in a checkerboard pattern.

For structural strength, the bucket is fitted with metal stiffeners at both ends. Hard metal strips are welded to them, in which recesses with a diameter of 1 cm are pre-drilled. A piece of reinforcement is pulled through the holes, circled around the edges of the bucket and bent in the form of a handle.

To supply raw materials for processing, a receiver is installed above the bucket - it can be a wooden or metal box with a broken bottom. Attach the receiver to a wooden frame with bolts or self-tapping screws. The final stage of assembly is the manufacture of the base. It is knocked down from a durable beam in the form of a table. The front part must be strengthened with additional rails, and made 5-7 cm lower than the back.

The root crop grinder works like this: the rotation of the handle drives the drum. Since the bucket is cone-shaped, the cutting will be pushed into the front, and from there into the substituted container. Vegetables and fruits are crushed under the force of their own gravity.

grinder from a grinder

An electric homemade vegetable cutter is made using an engine from a grinder. The simplest option is a disk feed cutter with a vertical feed of raw materials.

The power of the machine is sufficient for shredding:

• beets,
• Turnip,
• potato,
• carrots,
• sweet potato,
• turnips,
• rutabaga,
• pumpkins,
• Zucchini and squash,
• celery,
• radishes,
• radish.

To assemble a grinder from a grinder, they begin with welding a metal frame, at least 5 mm thick.

The frame is made on legs: the minimum distance from the ground to the motor is 20 cm. A hard steel disc is used as a cutting element, which is equipped with four knives with serrated blades. Knives are easier to make from old hand saws: for this, two plates are cut out of the canvas, about 50 mm wide. The disk is installed in the working chamber so that there is a gap of 1 cm between the edge of the knife and the wall. A large bucket, a frame from an old washing machine or vacuum cleaner, or a metal barrel can serve as a working chamber. Another option is to weld the chamber of the desired shape from steel sheets.

The cutting disc is attached with adapters, and a receiving hopper is mounted immediately above it. They make it from an ordinary bucket with a broken bottom. An unloading hole is cut in the lower part of the chamber, under which a box for chopped vegetables is installed. The engine is used from a grinder: it is attached to the cutting unit using several couplings, and connected to the shaft using a drive belt.

Barrel vegetable cutter

How to make a root crop chopper with your own hands from a tank or barrel:

1. If the working container is welded independently, then it is better to use steel, 1.5 mm thick,
2. Rigidity to the walls is given by flanging the edges with rubber tubes,
3. The bottom is made of a steel sheet of 5-6 mm,
4. A hole is drilled in the center of the bottom for installing the motor. For this model, a conventional single-phase motor is suitable,
5. An unloading hole is cut out at the bottom of the barrel, under which a tray or box is placed,
6. The body is installed on four legs from a cut of pipes or a corner,
7. Two knives are installed inside the working container,
8. The upper knife is made double-edged with the edges bent down,
9. The lower knife is made in the form of a propeller with one cutting edge,
10. The shaft is connected to the engine by means of a chain drive.
11. The dimensions of a homemade barrel depend on the thickness of the steel used. If you use a sheet of 1.5 mm, then the maximum wall height should not exceed 60 cm.

Crusher knives are made from a hand saw blade - the size should be one centimeter smaller than the diameter of the working chamber.

The role of the upper knife is chopping, and the lower one is tedding and raising uncut feed particles. To set the size of the crushed feed fraction, a sieve with the desired mesh pitch is installed on the unloading opening. Depends on the purpose of using ground vegetables: for feeding adult cattle and small ruminants, pigs, horses and rabbits, a sieve with a cell of 0.7-1.2 cm is suitable. For feeding young animals and poultry, it is better to use a smaller size: 0.2 -0.7 cm.