Do-it-yourself airbrush compressor from an aquarium. Airbrush with compressor

An airbrush is a device whose principle of operation is based on spraying paint with an air jet. It began to be used as early as the 19th century, when airbrushing was just beginning to be used by masters to create picturesque paintings. Now they are used both in creativity and in construction or design, for painting and painting surfaces of different sizes.

Assembling the airbrush yourself

The design is simple, so it’s not at all difficult to assemble an airbrush with your own hands for a person who has some idea of \u200b\u200bits principle of operation. To organize such a unit as a homemade external mixing airbrush, you will need the following elements:

body and stem from a ballpoint pen;
a small container with a tight-fitting lid;
a tube from a hospital dropper;

We remove the head of the rod, and wash the rod itself until the ink is completely removed. Next, we move on to the container: it is necessary to make a hole in its lid so that the prepared rod clearly enters it. We insert the rod, without bringing it to the bottom of the container by about 5 centimeters, and fix it with hot glue or epoxy glue. We fix the free edge of the rod at an angle of 90 degrees to the handle body: our task is to ensure the direction of the air that will exit the handle body from the side of the narrow hole towards the end of the rod.

Return to the pump using a tube from a medical dropper. The assembly of the airbrush is finished and now you can check how it works. We fill the container with paint or a solution with which it is supposed to treat the surface. Air is forced into the handle body, as a result of which a zone with reduced pressure is formed at the outlet. Due to this pressure, the paint moves up the rod, where it meets the air flow, spraying occurs. The size of the ink jet changes if you change the distance between the rod and the outlet of the pen. Such an airbrush cannot be used for, but for acquiring general skills and getting acquainted with the principle of operation, as well as performing some simple work, it will do just fine.

Working with an airbrush plays a very important role. It is necessary to choose if the goal is to achieve good staining. In addition, this device is selected with and its purpose.

It is possible to work with small objects, and if the amount of work is large, such as painting walls or a car body, a high-pressure compressor is needed.

Mounting such a device is easy. With enough knowledge, enough high-quality do-it-yourself airbrushing can be done even in your garage. A home-made high-pressure compressor gives up to 10 atmospheres and is able to ensure the operation of any pneumatic tool. But the container is chosen one that can withstand the appropriate pressure - a fire extinguisher or a welded pipe fragment.

Making an Airbrush Compressor

First of all, you will need a serviceable compressor from a broken refrigerator.

If possible, it is better to take this device made abroad: such a compressor, unlike a domestic-made unit, makes less noise and is more economical.

Most likely, it will be possible to take along with the compressor, and the receiver will also come in handy.

This is a fairly simple way to make a compressor - so you do not have to carry out turning work, connect certain elements by welding. Another, sometimes decisive, factor that pushes the craftsman to organize a homemade compressor is the minimum cost.

So, we remove the unit from the refrigerator and at the same time dismantle the relay, if it is also in good condition. Keep the compressor free of debris or small debris. Next, you need to get a container for the receiver. A hydraulic accumulator from a 24-liter water pump is best suited for this purpose. Together with it, it will be necessary to purchase a pressure switch RDM-5 at the hardware store. You will also need an emergency valve with a pressure sensor. Despite the fact that the relay is designed to operate at pressures up to 2.8 bar, it maintains trouble-free operation up to 6 bar. An emergency valve is installed in case of automatic failure.

In order to assemble the compressor for airbrushing together, you will need additional adapters, fittings. Some additional details are also needed:

Clamps.
Sealants.
Hoses.
Filters.
Oil moisture separator.

A non-return valve must be installed in front of the receiver. It is attached to plywood. An oil and moisture separator regulator is also attached there, as well as a compressor with a starting relay. Install two filters: one on the inlet pipe, the second between the compressor and the receiver. At the bottom of the structure there should be a switch-on relay, and a check valve at the inlet. Use sealant where necessary.

Diaphragm pump compressor

A mini airbrush compressor can be built from a car pump at no extra cost. Of course, it will be inferior to professional devices in terms of performance, but it is quite suitable for processing small parts.

An airbrush with a membrane-type compressor has a lower cost, and the choice of such a unit is justified if it is necessary to perform small-scale work that does not take a long time.

WATCH THE VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

The membrane compressor supplies air due to the vibrations of the membrane and can supply pressure up to 3.5 atm. In the most general case, the airbrush is connected to a membrane compressor via a hose. The system must be supplemented with a receiver in order to avoid pulsations in the air flow, due to which the paint can be unevenly distributed. For this purpose, you can use a regular five-liter plastic canister. An automobile expansion tank is also suitable, due to the presence of outlet pipes, its installation will be much easier. The hoses are put on the pipes, fixed with clamps and the compressor can be used for its intended purpose.

Are you interested in airbrushing? To implement creative ideas, you will have to acquire an airbrush and a compressor suitable for it. How to choose the right compressor in the store or how to assemble an airbrush compressor with your own hands, we will consider further.

When performing airbrushing, air enters the airbrush from the compressor through the attached hose.

Which compressor to choose? Its specifications should vary depending on the conditions where you will be working with the airbrush. For small projects at home, a smaller, quieter compressor will do, and for the garage, you can purchase a more powerful model. When choosing the right compressor, look at characteristics such as capacity and pressure applied to the job.

Having decided on where and for what purposes the airbrush will be used, you should choose the right type of compressor. There are a great many of them on the market, so choosing an airbrush compressor is not so easy: each model has its own strengths and weaknesses. What are the types of compressors?

On the video: compressor and airbrush.

Membrane

The membrane compressor has one very important positive point - a low price. The membrane oscillates, thereby providing air flow. Such an airbrush with a compressor is suitable for small-scale work at home. The air pressure in it does not exceed 2-3.5 A. The air outlet is enough for only one connected airbrush. Do not expect stable pressure from such a compressor, it can jump, go on the rise, which will undoubtedly affect the quality of work.

Piston

This type of compressor has the best performance for airbrushing. Due to the movement of the pistons, pressure is created in the cylinder. Such devices are quite small in size, convenient and easy to operate. The power of such a compressor is enough for several airbrushes.

Among piston compressors there are oil and oil-free. The latter will save the owner from mandatory care, regular oil changes. The air given out by the compressor will not contain oil vapours.

The oil piston compressor is quite powerful, able to ensure the simultaneous operation of several devices. Very durable, but requires regular maintenance and oil changes.

Having decided on the type of compressor suitable for your needs, it is necessary to ensure a stable pressure. It can be created by a reliable receiver - a reservoir in which air accumulates and is pumped.

Required filters

The air supplied to the airbrush must be cleaned, otherwise grains of dust, dirt, oil drops will fall into the sprayed paint, thereby ruining the work. A special air filter will help against such failures. Also an important acquisition will be a moisture trap. It is needed to collect the formed droplets of condensate that appears during the operation of the compressor.

An apparatus for regulating the pressure of the exhaust air and an auto-shutdown system when the maximum pressure level is reached will also be useful.

Compact version

The oil-free and tankless mini compressor is the most compact of all airbrush compressors. It is quiet, it works from a regular outlet, but the pressure it gives out will not be higher than 1.6 A. The mini device will perfectly cope with miniature works that do not exceed the size of the sheet. It is ideal for artists who work outdoors, in confined spaces or on limited surfaces.

The small unit works almost silently. It has only one pressure mode, the “baby” overheats quite quickly too. This forces you to pause during work, to let it cool down. But the small size still makes this model very popular with creative people. Her hose is more compact, they do not stretch to a large size.

What's the price?

In almost any specialized store you can find airbrushes for every taste and budget. Depending on the technical characteristics and the manufacturer, the prices for models vary from 3,000 to 40,000 rubles.

Many craftsmen quite successfully manage to assemble the necessary equipment with their own hands at home. If you're willing to sweat a little, then by following the instructions below, you can assemble a homemade airbrush compressor.

DIY compressor

You can make a compressor at home using spare parts from an old non-working refrigerator. If he himself is broken, and the unit is in working order, it is suitable. Ideally, take a foreign-made refrigerator - it is more economical and quieter than domestic specimens. With a little effort and no welding, you get a solid compressor:

1.Preparing details. Remove the compressor from the refrigerator, be sure to keep its native tubes, do not saw them off so that the chips do not get into the unit. Unscrew the relay, if it is working, no - buy a new one.

Advice! The receiver needs a capacitance. A hydraulic accumulator from a water pump with a capacity of at least 24 liters is ideal.

An emergency valve with a pressure switch up to 2.8 bar is also useful. The valve will help in case of emergency shutdown of the system. The relay can be adjusted later by turning the knob.

2. Assembly. Fasten the component parts of the structure together with fittings and various adapters. Before installing the motor with reservoir, mount the back pressure valve. Secure the joints with clamps, cover with sealant, put oil filters. Before completing the assembly, change the old oil in the compressor.

Attach a container used as a receiver to a plywood base, install a compressor, an oil drain and a relay to start. You should have two filters - on the outlet pipe and on the connection of the receiver to the compressor. Connect the relay strictly according to the instructions. Don't forget to connect the hose. Everything, your home compressor is ready to use.

Such a compressor is perfect for airbrushing, but from an aesthetic point of view, this option is significantly inferior to store counterparts.

How to make a mini compressor

If there is a limitation in size and you want a prettier option, you can design a mini compressor from a car pump:

1. We buy a pump at the car market. From the whole variety of accessories for tire inflation, we choose a powerful and inexpensive one. We do not consider Chinese options, they have a plastic case. An electric motor must fit in the case, so absolutely "kids" will not work either. We take a medium size with a metal case. Make sure it comes with a long hose.

2. Electric motor. The vast majority of electric car pumps are equipped with a cigarette lighter charger only. In order not to mess with altering the power cord, look for adapters for a conventional 220V power supply.

3. We select the receiver. A metal container will be able to withstand the planned voltage of 7 atmospheres, plastic will not withstand it, it will crack.

Advice! A good option would be a fire extinguisher with a volume of 15-20 liters. You can use one or two, depending on the desired volume.

A fire extinguisher can be found in friends' garages or at a scrap yard. Didn't find it? Contact the nearest fire station. There sometimes come across old, not subject to recharge, instances. The main thing is that the body of the fire extinguisher is in good condition - without cracks, chips and chips.

Open the fire extinguisher and assess the condition of the metal from the inside. Ideally, the inside should be free of corrosion and covered with paint. In the presence of rust, it is removed by pouring a cleaning liquid inside. After cleaning, the cylinder is washed with water, dried well.

We carefully examine the body - some cylinders have additional holes, valves that are not needed for an airbrush. They should be thoroughly boiled.

The outer paint of the cylinder must be washed off, it can be done with a special liquid or spray. It is more convenient to use a wash in an aerosol.

Before washing off the paint, do not forget about the precautions - glasses and a respirator mask will be needed so that chemicals do not get on the mucous membrane.

Applying the paint remover is simple: follow the instructions, apply layer by layer on the surface to be treated with an interval of 15-20 minutes. The old paint will begin to bubble and peel off the can. We take a spatula and carefully clean off the old layer of paint, then process the balloon again. Repeat the procedure until all the old paint is removed. You may have to repeat the procedure 5-6 times.

While the old paint is soaking, check the condition of the fire extinguisher cover. It, too, may be covered with corrosion, which will need to be cleaned and the old rubber gasket replaced.

After the rust is cleaned inside and out, and the old paint is removed, we proceed to the priming of the cleaned metal fire extinguisher cylinder. After applying 3-4 layers of primer, leave to dry, choose the color of the final paint to taste.

4. Construction assembly. Fittings for connecting all elements of the system, the necessary gaskets with clamps are easiest to find in a nearby plumbing store - simple, affordable, durable. To automate processes, it is necessary to install a pressure control relay. It is necessary to maintain and normalize the pressure inside the system. The pressure should not be more or less than necessary (not exceed the maximum, not be below the minimum). Homemade airbrushes are not designed for strong jumps.

Important! Do not forget to install a check valve to reduce the pressure pumped by the pump (otherwise the system may burst).

Valve use metal, plastic can be short-lived. Hose and gun pick up to your own taste. The finished structure can be “sheathed” with wood or plastic, mounted on a trolley on wheels for ease of movement.

The compressor is a necessary device for airbrushing. It does not matter at all whether you choose a ready-made store version or design it yourself, as a result of the work, you will be able to enjoy new opportunities and realize your artistic ideas.

Oil-free compressors for airbrushing (1 video)

Different types of unit (17 photos)

The compressor from an old refrigerator is usually quiet, although not very powerful compared to industrial designs. But for airbrushing, tire inflation, blowing, painting auto parts, it's great. Such a compressor is necessary in any home or garage workshop. Gives 6-7 atmospheres, and more is usually not required. A homemade compressor has several advantages. Firstly, due to quiet operation, and secondly, at cost. A self-made compressor from a refrigerator will cost an average of about a thousand rubles.

If you do everything right and take care of depreciation, then there will be almost no noise at all. For those who like to make something with their own hands, and this usually happens at night, this moment is extremely important. The compressor is needed for painting parts for modeling and other hobbies that are usually done after the main work. Therefore, noise limits are very important.

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline!

The design of the compressor from the refrigerator is extremely simple. A container for pressure equalization is attached to the compressor from the refrigerator, since direct blowing is not stable. This container acts as a receiver, an air flow mixer.

What is required to make a compressor with your own hands and where can you buy all this?

Refrigerator compressor. You can unscrew from your old one, you can buy it at a repair shop that deals with refrigerators. In order not to be confused, let us explain that the refrigerator motor is the compressor.
Sealed container that holds pressure well. Receiver. Many use cylinders from fire extinguishers, but there are also plastic containers that are quite resistant to stress. It is important that the container is large enough to mix the air and equalize the pressure from the refrigerator compressor. You can make a receiver from a suitable plastic container from garden sprayers. If the container is plastic, you will need epoxy for fasteners.
Start relay. You can take from the same refrigerator or buy. But usually the motor and the relay are together, it is from the relay that the power cord with the plug comes.
Petrol filter, diesel filter.
Pressure gauge. Sold in a plumbing store. Not required, but desirable. Mounted on a metal receiver.
FUM tape for connections.
Three pieces of fuel hose. 2 for 10 centimeters and 1 for about 70.
A hose that will remove air. You can attach a regular hose from an airbrush or a thicker hose if the equipment will be used for painting cars.
Clamps, fasteners, electrical tape.

Some hands-on experience is desirable.

Manufacturing process

Most of the fuss will be with the receiver. If you use an old fire extinguisher as a receiver, be prepared for the fact that there will be quite a lot of metal work. In addition, it will be necessary to ensure tightness. If we do not have significant experience in working with metal with our own hands, it is better to take a plastic receiver.

In the case of using heavy parts, you should mentally prepare for the fact that the compressor will turn out to be stationary. It is better to immediately prepare a reliable base and fasteners for it.

Compressor preparation

Determine where the compressor has a tube for the incoming air flow, and where is the outgoing one. To do this, you can briefly turn on the compressor in the socket and determine from which tube the air is blowing. Be sure to mark the tubes at the base so as not to confuse. This can be done with colored tape or a piece of medical plaster.

Carefully cut the tubes to about 10cm. This is necessary for the convenience of connecting hoses.

The vertical position is important for the compressor. The relay housing has an arrow pointing up.

It will be convenient if we fix the compressor in the correct position.

Receiver

Consider a simplified version with a plastic canister. We cut two holes in the lid for the tubes. The inlet tube must be made long, almost to the bottom. Outgoing can be made short, about 10cm.

Outside, there are small segments of about 2-3 cm.
The structure should be fixed with epoxy to ensure tightness.
In the case of an old fire extinguisher, the same actions will have to be done by soldering and welding fittings.
But on the metal case you can install a pressure gauge.

Don't solder the parts. Better weld nuts and thread where possible.

Connection of parts

Attach a gasoline filter to a short piece of fuel hose. Put the other end on the inlet tube of the compressor. The filter is needed so that dust does not fall into the compressor.

Connect the compressor output pipe and the receiver inlet tank with the second piece of fuel hose. The air flow will go from the compressor to the receiver. We put clamps on the hoses, since the air is under pressure.
Another short length of fuel hose is needed in order to secure the diesel filter. The filter is needed to clean the air flow.
A hose and equipment can be attached to the outlet fitting.

Compressor maintenance

Transformer or engine oil in the compressor must be changed periodically. It is advisable to change the gasoline filter about once every six months. Replacing the filter is a common maintenance, understandable to any motorist. All maintenance can be done by hand.

How to change oil

Examine the motor. A sealed tube should come out of the refrigerator compressor. Carefully cut off and drain the oil from the motor. Usually there is about a glass of it. However, if you purchased the compressor in the workshop, the oil is most likely already drained. Using a syringe, you need to pump in new oil and take care of how to close the hole. It will be most convenient to glue the outer thread with FUM tape and make a screw cap.

Compressor application

Mainly used for painting

For airbrush painting. Airbrushing allows you to draw fine details and apply artistic images.
For painting auto parts through a sprayer
For quick painting during repairs. To do this, you need to attach wheels to the compressor platform, like a vacuum cleaner. The accuracy of painting with a compressor is much higher, it is used in elite interior design.

Budget kit for airbrushing. The goal is to get the maximum pleasure for the minimum cost!

Freudian clause and item 18

I thought about the airbrush regularly, both when I painted aircraft models with a brush, and when I tinted some details, and ... yes, a lot when. But he always managed with improvised means.

Several times I plunged into the topic of airbrushing, reading various specialized forums, and everything was always difficult. Recommendations were pouring in to buy only airbrushes from well-known manufacturers, compressors only with receivers (an intermediate tank for compressed air) and a larger volume, etc. etc. All this resulted in a round sum and a decent occupied place. So the idea went "into the sand".

And remembering my agony of choice, I decided to choose the cheapest airbrush kit, figure out how good it is, bring it to "mind" using only the most affordable tools at hand and see what happens.

First, let's understand why airbrushing is needed at all. I didn't expect it to have so many interesting uses.

1. Modeling
2. Makeup and body art
3. Manicure
4. Temporary tattoos
5. Car painting
6. Painting everything you want to paint

Beware, nice pics! :-)

How does an airbrush work? In principle, nothing complicated.

Despite the abundance of details, everything is very simple. Pressing the start lever starts the air supply. The paint flows by gravity to the nozzle of the airbrush, at this time the nozzle is blocked by the needle. Pulling back on the trigger pulls the airbrush needle back and releases the paint. The air stream picks up the paint and carries it out through the nozzle.

What affects the quality of airbrushing

1. The diameter of the nozzle and needle, respectively. Diameter 0.15 - 0.2 mm is used for fine work, such as manicure or painting miniatures; 0.3 mm modeling and general purpose; 0.4-0.6 mm for painting large models, applying varnish
2. Nozzle polishing quality and wear resistance (paint particles work as an abrasive)
3. The quality of polishing the needle and its wear resistance (paint particles work as an abrasive)
4. Overall quality of airbrush mechanics
5. Uniformity of air supply
6. Quality (uniformity) of paint

Having a general idea of the basic requirements, let's move on to the hero of our review. Let's check what the most budgetary China offers us, and whether it is worth paying more.

The set arrived in a small box, which adequately endured the trip. The kit includes the airbrush itself, with a wrench for unscrewing the nozzle and a pipette for mixing paints, and a filter to trap moisture and oil (moisture from the air, oil can be thrown out of the compressor lubricant)

The airbrush is, of course, a copy of some of the world's brands, and the copy is quite good. The quality of the coloring is quite on top, the appearance is pleasant. Perhaps in the process of operation something will change, but so far everything looks great.

Let's disassemble the airbrush and prepare it for operation

A detailed video will be as always at the end of the review.

First of all, we will clean all possible burrs with a “zero” sandpaper and make sure that the trigger mechanism operates smoothly and softly.

Next, polish the airbrush needle. To do this, you can use any polishing paste that comes to hand: car polish, GOI paste, toothpaste, finally. We polish the needle on a piece of napkin with the lightest reciprocating movements so as not to bend it in any way.

Lubricate the trigger mechanism with any grease. I had Litol on hand, for example, any lubricant for CV joints could be suitable, the main thing is that it be a little sticky and not drain. Lubrication ensures smooth and predictable lever travel

Finished with the airbrush. Let's move on to the compressor.

The most important parameters of the compressor: productivity 10 liters per minute, pressure about 1.7 atmospheres. For home use above the roof. The manufacturer recommends taking a break after 30 minutes of continuous use to cool down.

In principle, any compressor without a receiver (intermediate tank for compressed air) can at maximum air flow, i.e. when the start lever is pressed to the maximum, give out a non-uniform, pulsating air flow. This results in slight discoloration. In most cases, this can be neglected. This is noticeable only if you draw separate continuous lines. Then they will "walk" a little in thickness. But we decided to "pump" our kit to the fullest.

Let's make a receiver! Well, not really a receiver, rather an intermediate tank for pressure stabilization. It will provide us with an impeccably uniform airflow. To do this, we need a 1/8 inch tee (132 rubles or 2 USD at a local store) and a 1.5 liter soda bottle. Bottles from the most ordinary soda can withstand a pressure of at least 3 atmospheres, and from Coca-Cola or Pepsi and all 5 atmospheres, this was experimentally established by enthusiasts on various forums. A volume of one and a half liters is enough for our purposes "for the eyes."

We drill a hole in the bottle cap and screw our tee there, then we wrap the thread with fum tape. Everything, our super stable air supply is ready. It will take the compressor a minute or two to inflate the bottle and reach operating pressure, and you can paint.

Now let's deal with the paint. For the home, I definitely choose acrylic. Nitro paints and others are not for the home. This is for a separate room with an exhaust hood, and work in a respirator. So in my review there will be only acrylic.

You can go two ways. The first way is to buy acrylic paints for airbrushing, the most revered brand among modellers, such as Tamiya. Their price is from $ 2 per jar, branded solvent is also recommended for $ 7 per jar (prices are very approximate, based on one store where I saw it all, please do not find fault, and if you made a mistake, just write in the comments). It's just that paints from different brands unknown to me start at $ 1.5 per jar (jars are different from 30 to 50 ml).

I decided to go the other way. What is acrylic - a pigment dissolved in a liquid base, usually water (much less often in an alcohol mixture). Therefore, I bought a set of Russian acrylic paints in a local art store - 6 jars of 40 ml for 223 rubles (less than $ 4). These are six basic colors, of which you can mix a lot of intermediate tones. I also bought for 174 rubles (less than $3) a set of six cans of metallic paint.

We will dilute the paints with distilled or purified water (it is not recommended from the tap, salts can be deposited on the walls of the airbrush, nozzle, etc.). You can buy water or make your own. For example, pour a bottle of tap water, put in the freezer. When a third of the bottle is frozen, drain the rest. Melt the ice. It will be pure water. Water without impurities freezes at 0 degrees, with impurities at a lower temperature. This is how we separate clean water.

We will filter the diluted paints through a woman's sock ☺ And we will pour the finished paints into jars at 10 rubles (15 cents) per piece, also bought in an art store.

The paint is ready, the airbrush is filled. Let's draw. First you need to get comfortable with the airbrush, for this you can line a piece of paper and try to draw horizontal, vertical lines and diagonal lines. It is important to learn how to control the length of the line, the start and end point. We also play with the distance between the airbrush and the surface. The power of the air flow and the size of the opening of the nozzle.

For ease of use, I printed on a 3D printer. The airbrush has become comfortable to hold.

There are two main airbrush techniques - "free hand" or free hands, when we paint with an airbrush like a brush. And the second technique is using masks (templates). In reality, as a rule, a combination of these techniques is used.

Here is a free hand drawing of an apple. Of course, this is not a perfect apple, but for the first experience in life with an airbrush, and on camera ... ☺

After work, the airbrush should be washed immediately, because. the paint dries quickly. To do this, water is poured into the paint tank and the contents are blown out. Then again until the output is clean water. Next, the airbrush can be disassembled and thoroughly rinsed from paint residues.

For washing, you can use any napkin, rag or jar with paper stuffed there. I printed it out, and it turned out to be a nice flush container and airbrush stand all rolled into one.

What else is important to note. In no way am I discouraging professionals from buying expensive airbrush models. I'm not saying that we make a thing from a cheap airbrush that is not inferior to branded models for $ 300. I just showed that with a small budget and a little time and desire, you can get an excellent airbrush, which is enough for amateur home use.

The main "subtle" points that lovers of expensive branded airbrushes pay attention to:

1. Plasticine needles. This is of course an exaggeration. Yes, and polishing the needle is required no more than once a year with more or less regular amateur use. When applied on a case-by-case basis, it may not be needed at all. A new nozzle costs $2, a new needle $1.5 to $2. You can buy a few pieces and close the topic.
2. Gaskets die when using nitro paints and flushing solvents. So what? Gaskets cost from 9 rubles (15 cents), you can change them as they become unusable, or order PTFE gaskets once and forget about them forever.

And a full video report on the operations performed

1. Overview and first use

2. Lubrication, polishing needle setting

3. Making a receiver

4. Dilute and filter the paint

5. How to hold, train hands, draw, wash

And as a summary. At the beginning of the review, I mentioned the key aspects that affect the quality of airbrushing. With this set, half an hour of initial adjustment, lubrication and insertion of a soda bottle, we get a quality tool suitable for solving almost all airbrushing tasks. And most importantly, inexpensive. I really enjoyed my time with the airbrush. Too bad I won't see him again soon. The daughter is already dancing with impatience, and is waiting for me to finish the review and let her get hold of a new toy. And it looks like it will last a long time.

PS If you are interested in how to draw using templates, write in the comments, I will temporarily beat off a toy from my daughter, I will shoot a video with basic techniques))

Have fun with everything around, and paint life in bright colors!

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

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When restoring paintwork, emulsions, the composition of which is selected by computer and mixed by a professional colorist, give the greatest hit in color. Such enamels should be applied using an airbrush, demanding on the flow of compressed air produced by the compressor unit. Recommendations for the selection or self-production of these devices will be discussed below.

What to look for when choosing a compressor unit

Currently, manufacturers produce a wide range of universal compressor units designed to work with various pneumatic tools. Depending on the power of the supercharger, the volume of the receiver and the performance, the price of the models differs many times. Parameters we pay attention to:

Overpressure generated by the compressor unit
Volume of compressed air produced per unit of time

Let's take a closer look at these specifications.

Pressure generated by the device

Typically, manufacturers indicate in the documentation several parameters that characterize the output of compressed gas flow. In particular, this is the working and peak (maximum) pressure, expressed in kg / cm², atmospheres or bars.

The value at which the compressor unit produces maximum efficiency is taken as the value of the working one. At this level of excess pressure, the device can operate for a long time, without any negative consequences for the functional units. Maximum is the highest air compression allowed by the compressor.

Manufacturers rarely specify the time interval at which the supercharger can operate at full load. Therefore, it is not surprising that the declared maximum pressure for cheap and expensive compressors can be the same. Only budget models can produce such power for a few seconds. While expensive devices withstand maximum load for several hours.

The performance of the compressor unit

Capacity refers to the volume of air generated by the compressor and is measured in l/min or m³/h or m³/min. Imported manufacturers take the intake air flow as a measured unit. Domestic manufacturers, according to GOST 28567-90, take the volume of outgoing gas as this parameter. Due to air losses in the blower valves, inevitable for reciprocating compressors, this figure is underestimated by 30-40% relative to the input. Thus, with equal declared performance, in fact, imported compressors are inferior to domestic ones.

If you plan to buy a compressor unit for painting, then you should not overpay for high-pressure and high-capacity machines. For example, for an airbrush, an overpressure of 4 atm and an air flow rate of 200-400 l / min are sufficient. This is not enough for the perforator to work, it needs compression up to 6 atm and an air flow of 3400-4800 l / min. If we have several consumers, then a natural question arises - how to choose an airbrush compressor with a sufficient power reserve?

Loading the unit over 70% of the nameplate capacity leads to the fact that the blower begins to overheat. Therefore, prior to purchase, the compressed air requirements of the planned pneumatic tools operating simultaneously are summed up, and 200-250 l / min is added to this figure for reliability. The resulting performance value will be one of the important selection criteria. Another important factor influencing the choice is the system of interaction between rubbing parts.

Compressor units for domestic purposes are divided into oil-free and lubricated. The first devices are easy to operate and do not require special routine maintenance. The service life of the latter is much longer, but the installation of an additional adsorbing element is required to filter drops and vapors of lubricant at the outlet. The introduction of a new part puts the supercharger into the category of compressor-drying units (KSU). In addition to adding an element, it is recommended to regularly monitor the oil level in the system and periodically replace it completely.

Basic semi-professional compressors

The volumetric low-pressure compressors used in auto repair shops (according to the classification, delivering from 1.5 to 12 atmospheres) are mainly of two types - piston and screw. And not all of them come with a receiver in the kit. It happens that compressor manufacturers produce products without receivers, which, according to their characteristics, can and will be suitable for using a pneumatic chisel or cutting machine, but not for an airbrush. At the outlet of such compressors, there are pulsations of the air flow, which will lead to uneven painting of the part. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of superchargers with piston and screw systems.

Advantages of a piston supercharger:

Relatively low cost - it is 5-10 times cheaper than a screw compressor of the same capacity
Low chance of jamming when solid particles enter the system (high dust resistance)
Less prone to heat and release of thermal energy
Maintenance and consumables are an order of magnitude cheaper than a screw compressor
Ideal for operating conditions where the need for it arises periodically. Painlessly tolerates frequent switching on and off

Advantages of screw compressor:

An order of magnitude superior to the piston design in terms of reliability, durability, dimensions, weight and engine life
Low noise
Engine vibration during operation is negligible
Has high performance and supports many consumers at the same time
The efficiency of screw blowers is 25% higher than that of piston blowers
Does not require special maintenance costs during operation
Allows remote on / off via many communication channels

Service life of blower

The degree of engine wear is determined primarily by the operating temperature of the compressor bypass head. Manufacturers usually do not indicate this type of data, however, you can indirectly determine the degree of heating. The higher the speed of the actuator, the higher the temperature of the compressor head is heated. Therefore, with the same performance of the two models, it is more expedient to choose the one that is more low-speed. Such a unit, ceteris paribus, will last longer.

A significant drawback of all more or less decent and reliable models is their high cost. If a compressor unit is required to paint a car less than twice a year, the cost of acquiring finished products will not pay off soon.

There is an alternative option in which you can not spend a lot of money and create a reliable device. Consider how to make a compressor for an airbrush with your own hands, avoiding unnecessary waste.

We make KSU from improvised materials

As the main elements of the manufactured device, we use the body of the fire extinguisher and the supercharger from the household refrigerating chamber. We use the fire extinguisher cylinder as a container for storing compressed gas supplied by the compressor. Finding a fire extinguisher housing is not a problem; in extreme cases, you can buy it in a store.

Let's start creating a compressor with a thorough preparation of the receiver. We unscrew the shut-off and starting device (ZPU) from the fire extinguisher body (it is better to take cylinders marked “OU” - they are made seamless), we screw in a water cross with an external thread on all inputs of three quarters of an inch. Then, using an LED flashlight, we examine the inner surface of the receiver. Even in the presence of the slightest pockets of rust, all the applied coating should be removed using special tools. Pour anti-corrosion mixtures into the cylinder, plug the inlet and shake thoroughly, then drain the resulting mixture. Processing is carried out until the complete removal of rust.

This procedure is performed to ensure that solid rust particles do not enter the airbrush. If it is necessary to make airbrush compressor parts in a single color scheme, we prepare the outer surface of the cylinder by scraping off the old paint to metal. In the future, the body will be primed, and then painted.

Engine preparation

As an air blower in the receiver, they use a compressor from an old refrigerator. The choice of this element is based on many factors, the main of which are low price (if you are lucky enough to find an old refrigerator, generally for free) and high reliability. The refrigerator compressor drives freon for years, being continuously connected to the electrical network. It is not as capricious to power surges as modern compressor units. Having become the owner of a compressor from a refrigeration unit, prepare it for further operation.

First, you should check the performance - apply the supply voltage to the input of the installation and ensure the free movement of air by expanding the flattened tubes. There are three branch pipe inlets in the compressor housing from the refrigerator - one is air intake, the other is outlet, the third is for routine maintenance. The latter is usually soldered, to determine which of the remaining is the output, and which input can only be started by starting the engine.

Before applying 220 V to the circuit, carefully insulate all wiring. After carrying out all the preparatory work, we serve food. If the engine has started and started to drive air, we determine the inlet and outlet of the compressor. Then, using a marker, draw the direction of the flow with arrows.

After making sure that the supercharger is in working condition, it is necessary to carry out the first maintenance. To do this, you need to drain the old oil from the engine - a spindle and fill in new one. The procedure for changing the lubricant is carried out through the third nozzle of the compressor, which is sealed. We remove the blocked tip along the bottom layer of solder, carefully sawing it from all sides, and then breaking it. When performing work, special care must be taken - not the smallest particle of metal should penetrate into the crankcase. After changing the oil, we screw the screw into the regular pipe with lubrication of the fum-tape to create tightness. Having prepared the main components, we proceed to the next stage.

Assembly of components

The compressor unit must be mobile and easily moved. To do this, we fix all the details on one base. You can use a wooden board as a base. On it with the help of brackets, clamps and self-tapping screws we fix the receiver and the supercharger. And we begin to collect KSU.

We put a fuel filter for gasoline engines in front of the compressor inlet, it will protect the system from dust penetration. We connect in series the inlet adsorber, the air intake inlet of the compressor, its outlet and the oil and moisture separating filter. Then we connect the oil and petrol resistant hose to the check valve, which we screw into one of the inlets of the water cross, except for the vertical one. We screw the reducer, transition fitting, shut-off valve to the opposite input. The shut-off valve is useful for changing pneumatic tools at the time of operation of the KSU. We connect an air pressure control switch in the receiver to the upper entrance through the fitting, it will control the operation of the supercharger and keep the set level.

That's all - the device is ready. The cost calculation shows the advantage of home-made production, only labor costs are high. In this connection, a completely logical question arises - how to choose a compressor for an airbrush: do it yourself or buy it ready? We wish you to make the right choice and not regret what you have done.

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