Do-it-yourself tile decoupage technology in the kitchen. Decoupage in the bathroom (16 photos): beautiful design options Decoupage tiles in the bathroom

Decoupage master class using printouts - a guide for beginners

A lot of information has already been published on the Internet on working with printouts and decoupage of champagne. Therefore, I decided to supplement this MK with a comparison of delamination of printouts using different types of acrylic varnish. And that's why.

Those who did decoupage with printouts must have faced the problem that no matter how thinly the printout is stratified, its border after gluing will still be noticeable (unless, of course, the printout covers the entire surface to be decorated). Most often, this border is hidden under a three-dimensional background or leveled by applying many layers of varnish.

I like to make the transition between the printout and the background subtle, as if the picture is drawn and not glued, as, for example, in these works

from here master class from viperia

In order to achieve this result, I sand the edges of the glued printout. Therefore, even the delamination process itself is not so important (you can, in principle, do without it, using a printout on a regular office paper), but it is important to facilitate the grinding process, because. in some cases it can be quite labor intensive. And in this varnish plays an important role.

Working process:

1. We clean the bottle from labels, degrease it and cover it with white acrylic primer or acrylic paint.

I usually use spray acrylic enamel in 2-3 thin coats. It dries quickly (2-5 minutes) and forms a smooth, even coating. Disadvantages:
- a strong smell, so it is necessary to work in a well-ventilated area (after drying for a day, the smell disappears);
- large spray radius, therefore, in order not to stain the floor or surrounding objects, it is advisable to cover them with film or newspapers;
- despite the very fast surface drying, like other acrylic paints, it will take about 12 hours to form a durable coating, so you can’t immediately sand the surface - the paint will peel off with a film.

I apply regular acrylic paint with a sponge.

2. If there is a relief on the glass, then it can be hidden using acrylic building putty. To do this, put putty on the inscriptions with a small rubber spatula, and after drying, carefully sand it with sandpaper. At first, it can be coarser (for example, P180), and then we grind with P200-P400 sandpaper. We try to make the transition between the putty and the surface of the bottle imperceptible. If the desired result was not achieved the first time, for example, small depressions remained in the putty, then we cover them again, and after drying we skin them.

3. Preparing the printout for delamination.

I prefer printouts made on a laser printer.

A few years ago, the quality of laser printing compared to inkjet was noticeably worse, it was problematic to find a place where such a printout could be made (at least in such small town, like mine), I'm not talking about choosing the type of paper ... But now laser printing has become more affordable and of high quality, while the ink from such a printout is guaranteed not to flow and the image will not fade over time. Therefore, if there is a choice, it is better to make a laser printout.

But so far, inkjet printing in decoupage is used more often, and there are more problems with it. Therefore, in MK I decided to use printouts made on an inkjet printer. For laser printouts, almost everything will be the same, but without problems with the quality of ink and paper.

So, the main problem that is often encountered when delamination of inkjet printouts is unstable ink or unsuitable photo paper (or both). For this reason, when ink comes into contact with water-based varnish or water, the ink may leak or wash out the pigments from the printout, causing the image to fade.

As for paper, I use various types of Lomond photo paper for inkjet printing, but I prefer glossy photo paper of not too heavy weight (up to 200 g/m2). Usually, when soaking this paper, the ink from the print does not flow, and such a printout can be delaminate even without a protective varnish layer.

Regarding the choice of printer and ink. read positive reviews how about printers using thermal inkjet printing ( e.g. Canon) and piezo printing (e.g. Epson). The main thing that experienced decoupagers emphasize is the use of branded inks. There may be exceptions, but I agree with the correctness of this statement.

I have a Canon Pixma IP4800 inkjet printer. Before refilling the cartridges with ink from another manufacturer, there were no problems. And although the new ink does not flow, now the red pigment is washed out of the printout, due to which the picture becomes paler after delamination. At the same time, the intensity with which it is washed out depends both on the acrylic varnish used for delamination, and on the interaction with the glue, and even with the soil ... But this problem can be partially solved (I will talk about this below).

At the very beginning, I mentioned that it is important to ease the process of sanding the edges of the glued printout, and not only its thickness matters, but also the varnish used for delamination. The fact is that some acrylic varnishes create a strong elastic film that is difficult to grind (but such varnishes, for example, are indispensable for decoupage on elastic surfaces).

You can layer the printout with almost any acrylic varnish. Because manufacturers do not write in detail their composition, then I will conditionally single out three main types of acrylic varnish not by composition, but by properties when delamination of the printout:

Acrylic varnishes based on synthetic resins (including aerosol acrylic enamels),

Inelastic varnishes on water based(or almost inelastic),

Elastic water-based acrylic varnishes.

To compare the first two types of varnish, I will use products from the Hobby Line company (varnishes of the same type and other companies have similar properties). Transkril (transkril, transfer medium) could be cited as a sample of varnish that forms a strong, elastic film, but I used more cheap option purchased in hardware store - water-dispersion varnish based on latex.

For clarity, I made the same printouts. The first one was coated with synthetic resin acrylic varnish (left, yellow label), the second with water-based acrylic varnish (right, blue label).

Water-based lacquer, odorless, brushes can be washed with water, very fast surface drying (which often leaves brush marks), the milky color becomes completely transparent during drying.

Synthetic resin varnish has a strong smell, brushes can be washed only with a solvent (white spirit), drying time is longer than that of a water-soluble varnish, forms a smooth coating.

In the case of synthetics, the direction when applying varnish does not matter (if the varnish is aerosol, then it is sprayed randomly from the can). In the case of a water-based varnish, the layers should be crossed. In both the first and second cases, each subsequent layer is applied after the surface drying of the previous one.

IN this example both prints are covered with three coats of varnish.

The photographs show that the water-based varnish slightly deforms the paper due to wetting (therefore, in order to avoid cracks on the varnish, it is not advisable to speed up drying with a hot jet of a hair dryer) and brush marks remain.

Synthetic lacquer does not deform the paper, no brush marks due to its self-levelling properties.

Such a varnish impregnates paper layers, so even thick paper can become transparent before the varnish is completely dry (like parchment paper).

Using a synthetic delaminating varnish also helps to partially solve the problem of ink leakage (pigment washout from the printout). In my example, you can see that the water-based acrylic varnish (on the right) has changed its color compared to the original (turned yellow), and after delamination, this difference will become even more noticeable.

In general, I noticed that the more elastic the varnish, the paler the image as a result of processing. The picture, covered with synthetic varnish, retains its brightness even after delamination.

When the image is covered with elastic water-based acrylic varnishes, the printout will behave in the same way as with a regular water-based varnish (therefore, I do not give intermediate photos). These varnishes also have a fast surface drying, milky white color, which becomes transparent after the varnish has dried. But even after complete drying, the surface of such a varnish feels slightly damp to the touch due to its “rubbery”.

We cover the printouts with varnish 1.5-2 cm more than the image we need. After drying, we cut the paper so that there is a continuous, uniform layer of varnish around the image.

Varnished printouts must be soaked in water for 15-30 minutes before delamination, depending on the weight of the paper. In the case of water-based acrylic varnish, it is important to remember that although its surface dries very quickly, it takes several hours (and in some cases days) for the coating to gain strength. Therefore, the printout prepared in this way should be left to dry before soaking for at least 4-6 hours (preferably for a day), otherwise the varnish will turn white in water, and if you try to delamination, it will crack and spread. In the case of synthetic varnish, the printout can be soaked immediately after its surface drying.

4. Layering the printout.

The peeling process for different types varnish will also be different.

In the case of delamination with synthetic acrylic varnish: put the printout face down on the file and carefully roll up the excess paper layers with your fingers. You need to try to roll up all the layers, except for the top one with the image. To do this, you can help at the final stage with the hard side of a damp sponge for washing dishes, but very carefully, because. This printout is thin and fragile.

To remove small spools from the printout (they will interfere if they get under the printout when gluing it), after delamination, dip the printout into water and lay it face down on a clean file. We cut off the wet printout around the image, retreating from it about 1 cm.

If the printout prepared in this way is allowed to dry, it will deform (the photo shows how its edges are bent) and become very fragile.

But if it is wetted again or covered with glue (or water-based varnish), then the printout will again become flexible, after which it can be easily transferred to the decorated object by hand or using a file. Such a printout can be stored by placing it immediately after delamination in a file.

Peeling with water-based acrylic varnish is much easier. We put the printout on the file face up. After that, we hook the needle with the most upper layer with a varnish film and carefully remove it entirely (as described in Natalya Rodina's MK).

At the same time, a layer of paper fibers remains on the reverse side of the film. This layer is almost invisible when the film is wet, but it turns white as it dries. If the remaining paper layer is uniform and very thin, then you can not additionally process the printout by hand. If the paper layer from the varnish film with the image has separated unevenly, and also if the acrylic varnish is inelastic and breaks when trying to remove the top layer entirely, then you can delaminate the printout as in the case of synthetic varnish - by laying it face down and rolling up the excess paper layers with your hands or a sponge .

As in the previous case, we cut off the wet printout around the image, retreating from it about 1 cm.

A printout treated with an inelastic water-based varnish or a varnish with weak elastic properties is better to be glued immediately, without waiting until it dries, because. in this case, it becomes very brittle. Water and glue do not restore flexibility to the printout and if you try to stick it, it will crumble when touched by hands or a brush.

If the water-based acrylic varnish is elastic, then we layer the printout in the same way as in the previous example - put it face up and remove the entire image layer. But unlike inelastic water-based varnish, such a film will not lose its properties after drying - it can be stored by placing it in a file to be glued later.

Because the resulting film is elastic, then it will not be possible to tear off the edges of the printout without spoiling the picture - it will stretch.

The more “rubber” the resulting film, the more difficult it will be to make the transition between the printout and the background imperceptible.

Therefore, for the method I am describing, it is better to use synthetic or water-based inelastic varnishes or varnishes with weak elastic properties.

I prefer to work with synthetic resin acrylic lacquer both for delamination of the printout, and for fixing the intermediate result, and for finish coat.

5. Glue the printout.

If a printout made on a laser printer was stratified, then any decoupage glue can be used, incl. PVA. If the printout was made on an inkjet printer and the ink flowed or the coloring pigment was washed out during its exfoliation, then contact with the adhesive will cause them to be washed out again. Therefore, in order to somehow minimize this process, it is better to use not PVA, but special decoupage glue or acrylic varnish.

We glue the printout and the place on the bottle to which we will glue it.

We attach the picture to the bottle and with a brush or fingers carefully smooth it from the center to the edges, expelling air bubbles and excess glue from under it. So that the printout does not tear, there must be good sliding. To do this, periodically dip a brush or finger into the glue. Remove excess glue around the printout with a damp cloth or cloth.

You need to leave the printout to dry (you can use a hair dryer). Be sure to fix the result with varnish (inelastic or with weak elastic properties). We apply varnish, going beyond the boundaries of the glued printout. We make sure that there are no leaks. The varnish should dry well, after which you can proceed to the next step.

6. Align the border between the printout and the background.

To make the transition between the picture and the background invisible, carefully sand the edges of the printout. Therefore, it was important to leave at least 1 cm of background around the image.

For sanding and grinding we use sandpaper with fine grain (P200-P400).

As a result, the border of the printout should not only not be visible, but also if you slide your finger from the image to the white background and back, you should not feel it.

7. With a sponge (sponge) with white acrylic paint or primer, paint those places where the background on the border with the printout after sanding has thinned and become uneven.

Once again, cover the image with a thin layer of varnish to protect it at a subsequent stage of work.

It does not matter what kind of leather product we want to take on: bags, shoes, passport covers, eyeglass cases, wallets, etc., we need to prepare it. Is it possible to do decoupage on a varnished surface? Yes, if you first sand it well with sandpaper.

If we want to decorate not the entire surface, but only part of it, we trace the picture with a pencil along the contour and process only this place.
If the skin is dark, paint over it with white paint - so the pattern will be seen better.
Then we apply glue and, as soon as the picture sets, and there are no air bubbles left, we also pass it over the image.

When everything is completely dry, we fix the image with vitreous varnish - this will make the product more elastic, durable and strong.

Decoupage on furniture

Wardrobe, chest of drawers, grandmother's chairs, headboard or nightstands - you can breathe into all these items new life giving them a unique color.

Depending on the material of the furniture, we prepare the surface in different ways.

Wood

We must sand the lacquer surface, putty all the irregularities and sand them again, then cover with primer.

To make the image more vivid, you can apply several layers of acrylic white or light paint. In this case, the base coat is no longer necessary.

You can decoupage an already painted cabinet or chest of drawers if we have a wooden smooth surface in front of us. If it has decorative cracks, chips, or it is too well polished, it will have to be processed in the manner described above.

Glass

Can do decoupage with inside glass surface, and it is possible from the outside, depending on the desired effect and purpose. For example, it is better to process the countertop from the back side.

In any case, we degrease the surface, mark the location of the drawing with a felt-tip pen, and then primer, varnish or tint with rice paper - as desired.

Decoupage on plastic interior items, accessories

You can decorate anything: hangers, combs, jewelry boxes, flower pots, computer mouse and keyboard, photo frames, wall panels, clock, panel mobile phone etc.

Making decoupage on plastic is no more difficult than on wooden surface. If it is not glossy, it is not necessary to sand it, but the primer will not hurt. If we limit ourselves to degreasing with alcohol, the picture will keep much worse, and no one can guarantee the final result.

We stick decoupage paper, as usual, on PVA or special decoupage glue. If it's about flower pot or a telephone panel, you can cover the entire surface with a picture, but patterns cut from napkins are suitable for decorating a comb, computer mouse or keyboard.

After drying, we cover the picture with varnish in several layers, as usual, or create a craquelure effect. For him, we need a special varnish and gold paint in powder or ordinary metallic eye shadow - we overwrite the resulting cracks with them so that they become more noticeable.

If the patterns were applied pointwise, we only go over them with varnish or use a matte finish - this will get rid of unwanted strokes and make the surface uniform.

Is it possible to do decoupage on the floor

It sounds incredible, but this is not only possible, but also necessary, especially if we are talking about how to hide the flaws of the flooring.

If we have linoleum in front of us, it is enough to cut out suitable motifs from paper, go through the right places with sandpaper and a primer, apply glue locally and press the pattern well. You need to cover it either with matte varnish in several layers, or with a glossy, but thin brush along the contour, without going beyond it.

If we are talking about large surfaces, the technology remains the same, but then it is better to varnish with floor varnish - this will create the necessary strength and allow the picture to hold on as long as necessary.

Whatever items we decide to choose when using this technique, it is worth remembering one nuance: if we have a non-absorbent surface in front of us - plastic, glass, metal, porcelain, the primer should be different from the decoupage initial coating for wooden or cardboard surfaces.

We decorate shoes

Shoes or sneakers decorated in this technique look unusually interesting. With our own hands at home, we can make real designer shoes!

We will need the same materials as when decorating a wooden surface: glue, varnish and, of course, suitable pictures.

We take a pair of shoes or ballet flats, wash them thoroughly and degrease the surface. If there are scuffs, paint over them with tone-on-tone acrylic paint and wait for complete drying.
We cut out the selected motif and, using diluted 1: 1 PVA glue or special glue for decoupage, we fix it on the surface in right places. Immediately we go through the glue already on top of the paper, trying not to damage it.
We glue the pictures gradually, not trying to capture a large surface at once - this will make the work sloppy.
As soon as everything is dry, we cover the shoes with a special varnish for decoupage in several layers. Then the shoes can be decorated different ways- textile flowers, rhinestones, etc.

In conclusion, consider a proven way to turn an ordinary printer printout on an A4 sheet into a thin paper sheet suitable for decoupage.

Seal

It is best to use a laser printer - its printing is not afraid of water and it can be safely coated with water-based varnish.

But how an inkjet printer prints depends on the ink used, so we choose pigment, not water.

Paper

We can print a picture on tracing paper, rice paper or even a napkin, simply by gluing them with masking tape to a regular A4 sheet, the main thing is to do this carefully so that the printer does not “chew” the paper.

If we have an image on a medium density sheet, it will need to be thinned to achieve a better result.

Thinning paper with tape

To do this, we glue the back surface with adhesive tape without creases and wrinkles, and then carefully remove the top layer.
To prevent the surface from tearing, you can use a varnish in a spray. Even a hair product will do. We are left with thin, almost transparent paper with an image in our hands - this method is suitable for obtaining pictures on wooden products.

Thinning by water

We go through the picture with several layers of acrylic varnish on the front side, allowing them to dry completely in between. Enough 3-4 times.
Then, for 30 minutes, leave the glossy sheet to soak in a bath of water, take out and roll up the paper from the back side with your hand.

This method is the least "traumatic" for the image and is ideal for getting a picture on leather products.

Thinning photo paper

When we have a finished photograph in front of us that needs to be applied to an object, we first cover it with varnish in 3-4 layers, let it dry completely and put it on a wet surface with the paper side down.
We wait a few minutes and, then, prying with a needle, we disconnect the color photo layer from the paper one.
We pull it towards ourselves strictly vertically.

The resulting film is ready for use on any surface.

As you can see, the answer to the question: what can be used for decoupage is extremely simple - on everything! Or almost everything, so try it, friends, experiment, train your hand and polish your skills!

Among great variety decorating techniques tiles, decoupage should be highlighted. With it, you can transform the old coating beyond recognition or add a couple of highlights to the interior. Let's analyze the methodology in more detail.

Creation of an individual unique design

What is decoupage

This is a decoration method that resembles an applique. It consists in applying pieces of material to any surface.

Decoupage of ceramic tiles involves the transfer of a pattern or individual artistic elements to the tile and their secure fastening on it.

An example of decoupage of ceramic tiles

The decor uses a variety of materials and motifs. Most often, multilayer colored napkins, special paper or thin fabric are used. It is important to achieve a neat smooth sticker and masking the transition of one material to another. How to get this effect will tell the master class in more detail.

Decorate tiles anywhere: in the kitchen, bathroom or other room. Usually the object is a wall tile or backsplash above the work surface. And here floor elements rarely supplemented in this way, since without a high-quality protective layer of varnish, the pattern will quickly peel off.

Versions

When it comes to decoupage, the standard ideas of applying a single pattern to a surface come to mind. However, there are many more options:

selective decoration;
using the same motif for the entire surface of the tile;
connection of patterns;
a panel of several tile elements and one pattern;
combined finishing of different surfaces.

Decoupage tile design options

If it is appropriate, combine a flat pattern with voluminous inserts. For example, they create a forest corner with flowers and birds in the bathroom, a seabed with shells, etc.

Decoupage affects not only tiles, but also neighboring objects. Plumbing items, personal hygiene items in the bathroom (soap dish, cup), mirror, appliances, etc. are often decorated in a similar manner.

Required Tools

Decoupage of tiles is made using several items:

brushes;
glue;
applied material;

The list of necessary for decoupage

In the bathroom, they use such coatings that are well tolerated high humidity and are not afraid of mechanical cleaning. Also keep in mind that both in the bathroom and in the kitchen, the surfaces are in contact with chemicals.

Use a flat brush to gently apply the pattern to the tile. It should be moderately rigid, but at the same time not damage thin paper. Also important is its width. Too big a brush is inconvenient to work with, especially in the presence of fine details, and a small one will increase the time spent.

As for the glue itself, PVA is considered the standard option. For ease of use, it is diluted with a small amount of water. However, for a better setting of the decor with ceramic tiles, a colorless varnish or special decoupage glue is used.

Master class on doing the work

Consider the decoupage of ceramic tiles in detail. First of all, clean the tile from dust and residues of glue or grout. If the tile has been in use for a long time, then completely remove all contamination. Be sure to degrease it, otherwise the glue will not take such a base.

On glossy tiles do not remove the top slippery layer. However, if you want to increase the adhesion of the decor to the base, it is better to rub the glaze with fine sandpaper. Make sure that there are no deep scratches or chips on the surface.

If you plan to work with paper, dilute the PVA with water approximately 1:2 or 1:3. Cut special blanks into parts that you plan to fix on the tile. If you are using multi-layer wipes, separate the colored part.

So, a master class on applying paper decoupage:

Attach the prepared drawing to the surface of the tile "dry". Adjust the position of the decor.
Using a flat brush, pick up a small amount of glue.
Apply the composition to a napkin and spread it over the surface, gently smoothing the paper. Do not rub for a long time in the same place, as a thin napkin is easily torn.
To minimize the number of folds and wrinkles on the paper, start work from the center of the picture, gradually moving to the edges.

The main stages of decoupage

If you want to decorate the surface in the bathroom with a cloth, the principle of work will be the same as when applying paper. First, cut the pieces. If the material crumbles, treat the edges with a small amount of glue. First, lean the pattern against the tile. Then, with a brush, work through the product from the center to the edges. Glue in this case is not bred. While it has not yet set, adjust the position of the fabric. Make sure there is not a single wrinkle left.

Such decoupage dries for several hours. Then check the quality of adhesion of materials by stroking the surface with your hand. Naturally, the decoration of the bathroom does not end there. Care must be taken to ensure that the drawing does not get wet, dirty or peeled off. To do this, a layer of varnish is applied over decoupage.

To preserve the color, select formulations without oil additives. Water-based acrylic is a good option, but pay attention to the degree of resistance of the coating to abrasion and moisture. For reliability, the varnish is applied in two or three layers. It will additionally fix the decor on the tile. Usually it takes at least a day to dry the surface.

To prolong the life of such a decoration in such a capricious room, regularly wash off the dirt from the surface. In the absence of care, dust settles on the varnish and grease is eaten. Removing such contaminants is much more difficult. If you damage the drawing, do not despair. Correcting any defect on decoupage is simple: glue the damaged part or replace it with a new one. IN last resort delete old decor and apply another material.

In the modern segment building materials There is a huge variety of colors of ceramic tiles. However, despite this choice, it is relevant to create decor with your own hands. One of the ways to show imagination and creativity is to create your own original interior is to perform decoupage tiles.

Decoupage is an artistic technique that involves gluing individual patterns, as well as entire paintings, onto a wide variety of objects. The name of this technique in translation from French means "cut". Despite the fact that this type of creativity originated in China, this trend came to Europe only in the 17th century as art for the poor. The peasants could not afford to decorate their homes with expensive finishes, as a result of which the decoupage technique arose. However, modern designers widely use the decor technique and apply it in a wide variety.

Today, the tendency to decorate ceramic tiles with the decoupage method is gaining popularity. This makes it possible to update and decorate the interior of the room without performing laborious repair work for this.

material for decoupage ceramic tiles napkins, wrapping paper, various illustrations from printed publications and even labels can become. Recently, materials such as printer printouts have gained significant popularity. You can decorate in this way a wide variety of objects without applying significant effort. In addition, decoupage can be done at minimal financial cost.

Decoupage methods

Experts distinguish many options for decoupage, but the most popular today are the following:

Arrangement of one image on several tiles.
Selective drawing.
Application of several patterns at the same time.
Placement on each tile of the same print.
The combination of the image on the tile with the decoration of other surfaces and details in the interior of the room.

Decoupage on ceramic tiles photo:

Required materials and tools

If you decide to do decoupage on ceramic tiles, this lesson will not special trouble and does not require significant financial outlays. To complete the decor, you need to prepare the following:

paper, preferably as thin as possible;
napkin with the selected image;
brush for drawing;
paint based on acrylic and varnish - acrylic-urethane, polyurethane or urethane;
ceramic tiles;
small scissors;
acetone or alcohol;
glue.

Important! When choosing a tile, it should be noted that the size of the work surface must be sufficient to accommodate the intended pattern.

Find all necessary materials won't be difficult. Today, many specialized stores offer such products individually or as a set. You should contact art, stationery, as well as construction markets.

Decoupage of ceramic tiles master class requires compliance with certain subtleties and features that will allow you to carry out the whole process as accurately and aesthetically as possible. Consider more detailed recommendations to the decoration technique:

When cutting a pattern from a material for decoration, scissors are well suited. small size with rounded ends - manicure, as well as medical.
If thicker paper is used, a knife specially designed for decoupage should be used, in addition, a scalpel will do.
If there are small details in the image, you can cut out larger ones, and finish the rest of the fragments.
For gluing the picture, it is recommended to use a special glue for decoupage. But if this is not available, it is permissible to use the usual composition of PVA, as well as glue from egg white, pre-diluted with nail polish or wallpaper glue.
When using a napkin, you must first remove the first two layers from it, leaving only the last one on which the pattern is located.
The napkin is applied to the surface and glued with a flat brush. Glue is applied from the outside.
It should be taken into account that the napkin impregnated with adhesive composition will begin to stretch, as a result of which, if it is not accurate enough, it can tear.
If paper specially designed for decoupage technique is used, it must be soaked in water for 1 minute before use. In this case, the adhesive should be applied from the inside. After gluing, the top can be covered with another layer of adhesive.
If the drawing is printed on a printer, then it is advisable to apply a little hairspray to the paper. This will prevent the colors from bleeding.
For decoupage, it is customary to use acrylic paints. They dry fairly quickly and do not dissolve when water gets on the image.
At the end of the work, the product should be varnished to create a protective layer against possible damage. Depending on the type of lacquer, a matte or glossy surface effect can be obtained. For this purpose, acrylic-based varnish is well suited.
The number of layers may vary. We apply varnish until the pattern merges with the decorated object.

Decoupage technology

Creating decoupage on ceramic tiles with your own hands – a scrupulous, but quite interesting lesson that will allow you to add a touch of originality and innovation of the author's idea to the ordinary interior of the home. In order for the work to be done as efficiently and accurately as possible, it is necessary to follow the following procedure:

At the first stage, you need to decide on the pattern that will be transferred to the tile. When choosing an image, one should be guided by the indicator of how harmoniously the pattern or picture will fit into the overall interior of the room. And, of course, your preferences and tastes.
Then, if we are talking about a printer printout, the drawing must be processed in a graphics editor. It could be PhotoShop. During processing, the image should be corrected in accordance with required dimensions. In other words, increase or decrease it, adjust the brightness and contrast. After that, using the program functions, it is necessary to cut the image into the required number of separate fragments. After that, we save each part in a separate file, while leaving 5 mm on all sides.
The next step in the process is to print all parts of the picture using translucent paper. In this case, tracing paper should be glued to the paper. After all parts of the drawing are printed, we disconnect them from the paper and get rid of unnecessary details.
Next, we proceed directly to gluing the image. In order for the pattern to be firmly attached to the surface of the tile, it must be carefully degreased. For these purposes, medical alcohol or acetone is suitable.
Then, using a brush, grease all the fragments with glue. It is necessary to ensure that the paper is completely saturated and only after that we apply it to the front side of the tile.
We fasten the paper to the surface of the tile with smooth movements, moving in the direction from the center to the edges.
Air bubbles and possible tubercles should also be eliminated. This stage This is very important as the presence of bubbles and bumps can cause the paper to tear. We are waiting for the product to dry.
Next, you need to turn on the oven at 170 ° C and place the tile inside for 30 minutes. After the specified time has elapsed, turn off the oven, but ceramic fragments do not remove until the oven has cooled down. Otherwise, due to a sharp temperature drop, the product may crack or crack.
Then another layer must be applied to the surface of the tile. acrylic paint and put back in the oven. But this time, the heating time will be 10 minutes.

Stencil technique in decoupage

You can also decoupage tiles using a stencil. This is a simpler and less expensive way, which guarantees a successful result even for a novice master. To do this, prepare the following materials:

plain tiles;
stencils with the desired pattern;
acrylic paints;
spray adhesive, with which the stencil is well attached to the tile;
brushes of various sizes;
sponges.

The workflow looks like this:

First you need to clean the surface of the tile from dirt. To do this, wash the fragments in water using dishwashing detergent. You can also wipe with alcohol.
The tiles must dry. At this time, we are preparing a stencil. We apply spray glue to its reverse side. This will help secure the stencil while you work.
After the tile dries, we put a stencil on its outer surface and you can get to work.
Choosing color scheme for the future drawing, it is recommended to take into account one point. The product will look more advantageous if the previous shade is darker than the next.
Next, we proceed directly to drawing the picture. To do this, you can use a brush or a regular sponge. In the process of work, the brush should be held perpendicular, and the paint should be applied with dotted movements. Otherwise, the paint will leak under the stencil and the picture will end up being fuzzy.
To achieve various design effects, you can also apply the image with a sponge, which will create a roughness in the picture.
After the image is applied, you can remove the stencil. Then you need to wait a few hours for the paint to dry completely.

There are a lot of options for using stencils for decorating tiles. Tiles can be used during repairs and thus bring exclusive notes to the interior. You can attach a piece of felt on the back side and get a convenient and practical stand for dishes. Another option is also possible - to define a tile in a frame and so get a picture. You can decorate already laid tiles.
Having shown Creative skills using the decoupage technique, you can diversify the interior with your own hands, as well as make it exclusive and original. And it does not require significant financial costs or a lot of free time.
You can see the decoupage technique on ceramic tiles in the video in the fragment below: