Proportions of dilution of paint for painting cars. Preparation of enamels and varnishes, determination of their viscosity

The reliability of the protective properties of the coating mainly depends on the density, elasticity, hardness and other physical properties paints. For example, using car paint with high hardness rates, you can protect your iron friend from possible scratches or chips. There is a certain combination of these parameters: high performance hardness leads to an increase in density values ​​and a decrease in elasticity.

Varieties of car paints

Paints depending on the chemical composition are divided into:

• alkyd enamel, the basis for which is an oily alkyd resin. Their main feature is the presence of rapid polymerization under normal conditions ( normal temperature and atmospheric oxygen). But, it is not recommended to carry out a full car painting with such paint, because it requires additional layers of varnish, as well as polishing. Alkyd paint is characterized by excellent polymerization, low cost and resistance to aggressive environments. Acquaintance with the advantages, at the same time reveals the disadvantages, for example, due to the fact that the paint dries very quickly, forming thin film, the surface can not dry evenly.
• melamine alkyd enamel, requiring very high temperatures for drying - 110-130 ° C (it will not be possible to eliminate defects in the garage). Such enamel creates a durable coating on the surface, and a rich color palette will please many buyers. Typically, a factory uses this type of paint, because only the factory can achieve the required working conditions.
• acrylic enamel. Almost all car owners love it. Automotive acrylic paint contains two components: a pigment and a hardener. The main advantage is the following point: there is no need to apply varnish, because the surface already becomes glossy after it dries completely.
• nitro paint designed for small repair work. The main advantage of this paint is a short period of time required for drying - about 30 minutes at +20 degrees. Performing a full painting of the car is also possible, however, it will be necessary to cover everything with varnish.

Depending on the concentration of components, the entire range of automotive enamels on the market is represented by:

• highly filled;
• medium-filled;
• low-filled (they should not be diluted too much).

When determining the right amount solvent must be based on the value of the above indicator - then the paint will not be too liquid and will not partially dry before all paint work is completed.

Thinning car paint

An ordinary solvent usually consists of: white spirit, boluene, xylene, butyl acetate, nefras, etc. By the way, the main part of the diluting compositions differs only in the ratio.

To determine the answer to the question: how to dilute car paint, let's clarify the following points:

• White Spirit will not be able to cope with the dilution of acrylic paint, but on the other hand, it is well suited for slate, conventional or bituminous mastic. And most often they are used when you need to degrease the surface.
• in the most popular № 646 the main advantage and disadvantage is aggressiveness, which not only dilutes the base, but also changes the composition. Acrylic and the bulk of primers can withstand it, in other cases, its use is quite dangerous.
• application area 647 solvent- this is a dilution of nitro enamels and varnishes, although it must also be used with caution - it is very aggressive. No. 650 has a softer composition, it is preferred by most car painters for enamel and varnish.
• multicomponent solvent R-4, which contains toluene, butyl acetate and acetone, is recommended for alkyd paints.
• enamel based on chlorinated polymer should be diluted with pure toluene and xylene.

In addition to all of the above, You also need to pay attention to the presence or absence of polarity in the paint itself., because the solvent will need to choose the appropriate one. Molecules of the hydroxyl group present in the composition of the solvent indicate its polarity (alcohol). And for the production of non-polar (white spirit, kerosene), liquid hydrocarbons are used. water-based paint and water-soluble acrylic enamel is best combined with alcohol or ether, but in no case should they be replaced with white spirit - a completely different substance. A positive reaction of acetone can only be observed in combination with a polar substance, and xylene is a universal solvent suitable for the main part of enamels and benzene.

Dilution of acrylic paints, which are based on water, requires a special hardener, followed by the addition of a solvent, the purpose of which is to bring the material to the desired consistency. Solvents are currently available special composition, stimulating the drying process of acrylic paint, although they are not cheap. If the budget is small, then you can use solvents such as R-12 or No. 651.

Alkyd paint prefers P-4 solvent, although you can also use pure toluene or xylene. Such paints do not quite meet environmental standards, which is why their use is minimized.

Nitro enamel, used mainly only to give the car a metallic effect. To do this, it is necessary to apply two layers: first synthetic nitro enamel, and then acrylic car varnish, required for protection. This type of paint is very sensitive to solvents and manufacturers often try to indicate the recommended one on the can itself.

In general, to decide how to dilute the paint for a car, you need to rely on the composition of the paint itself.

How do car paint and thinner interact?

The result of the work for the most part depends on the moment when the paint was diluted. Automotive enamel is always a liquid mixture, to which a solvent must still be added. This will have a positive effect on the smoothness of the surface and on the value of the reliability index. When the painting is completed and the pigment begins to dry, the solvent evaporates at a certain rate. So, in accordance with this characteristic, they distinguish:

• fast recommended for use at low temperatures;
• slow or long, which is better to use during the heat;
• universal, which is used during the transitional season.

Smooth and glossy surface - the dream of every car enthusiast

The desire to properly dilute the paint should not be reduced only to strict compliance with everything that is written in the instructions.

It is quite clear that the use of too thick paint will not allow you to get anything good as a result - everything will be spoiled by "shagreen". And if excessively thick paint is used when painting a car from an airbrush, then this will lead to a lack of gloss and an attractive appearance. Brush and spray gun give different results: when working with the latter, the paint particles are mixed with additional air, which greatly dries them. Accordingly, the surface is covered with dry paint particles that cannot be completely dissolved and evenly distributed over the surface, thereby significantly spoiling the attractiveness of the element or the car as a whole.

So, how to dilute the paint for painting a car? To obtain a smooth uniform painting, you need to follow the following recommendations of experienced people: each spray gun and each manner of painting are individual, and as a result, they require a certain “own” paint viscosity. To measure this indicator, it is worth using a special device - a viscometer.

The exact proportions of paint and thinner are unknown to anyone. In each situation, it is necessary to rely on the totality of conditions available at the present time.

Illustrative examples (with the appropriate hardener and thinner for each type of paint):

• If the room has a good temperature regime, then the paint turns liquid after the hardener has gone into it in the recommended amount. This means that the diluent should be added in the very minimum amount (about 3-5%).
• In a cold space, the thinner should be used in more- from 5 to 15%. Although you can get around the situation and warm up the paint, then it will return to a liquid state.
• If it was not possible to paint the car at the point in time when the paint was diluted, then more solvent will most likely need to be added to it. By the way, this moment is often the reason that the second layer of paint lay down much worse than the first - 20 minutes is enough time for the hardener to make the paint thicker. To avoid such unpleasant moments, you can rinse the spray gun and check the viscosity index after each applied layer.

The result of the repair work associated with the restoration paintwork, largely depends on how to prepare the paint. Expendable materials for painting a car, it is necessary to activate and dilute with solvents. By the way, most of the instructions for the use of the latter, among other things, contain an incentive to purchase expensive solvents from the same series as the paint (lacquer). In fact, an expensive solvent does not always turn out to be of high quality. In addition, expensive products of foreign manufacturers can sometimes be replaced by no less effective licensed solvents of domestic production.

Slow, medium and fast solvents for car enamels

How to properly prepare paint for painting parts at different times of the year? During the car painting process, the solvent evaporates at a certain rate, which is affected by temperature. environment. In this regard, the following types of solvent compositions are distinguished:

• slow ones, which are advisable to use in the hot season so that the paint does not set too quickly;
• averages suitable for transitional periods;
• fast, which accelerate the hardening of paints and varnishes at low temperatures in the workshop.

Enamels with different degrees of fullness

Enamel drying scheme. Click on the photo to enlarge.

For painting a car, varnishes and paints with different component compositions are used. During storage, certain substances in the enamel can be in a calm or active state. On this basis, car paints are divided into several groups:

• LS are enamels of the “low solid” type, that is, low-filled. They are characterized by higher volatility, therefore, to properly prepare such a paint for work means to dilute it with a very small volume of solvent;
• MS - enamels with medium fullness;
• HS, HD - auto paints with high saturation, which should be diluted with a solvent in large proportions;
• VHS, UHS are materials for car painting with ultra-high content. They interact with the painted surface several times better than other types of car paints.

It should be noted that the viscosity of both low-filled and high-filled enamels is approximately the same, therefore, in order to find out how to properly dilute LS- or UHS-paint for painting a car, you need to carefully study the instructions on the paintwork packaging.

The rule of similarity of the composition of the base material and the solvent material

To correctly answer the question of how to prepare the paint for application to the surface, it is necessary to know the composition of the enamel used to paint the car and the solvent. It is possible to achieve the creation of a mixture of the correct consistency only if a solvent is added to the car paint with a similar chemical composition. In this regard, for example, acrylic enamels and varnishes are diluted with the same solvents, since acrylic paint is the same varnish, only with pigment.

The most popular solvents for coatings used in car painting

Solvent No. 646 finds the widest application in auto painting works. With it, you can properly prepare mixtures for priming car surfaces. This composition is also suitable for diluting acrylic enamels used for painting cars. Caution should be exercised with other paintwork materials, since the 646th contains rather aggressive components. But at the stage of cleaning pistols and other tools after painting, this aggressiveness will come in handy.

White Spirit. This solvent composition is mainly used for degreasing surfaces before applying coatings. They can also be diluted different kinds mastics (slate, rubber-bitumen, etc.).

Thinner No. 647 is an ideal agent for thinning nitro-paints and nitro-varnishes.

Thinner No. 650 is characterized by mild reaction with other substances, so it can be used in the preparation of working mixtures based on most paintwork materials for painting a car.

R-4 is a mixture of butyl acetate, toluene and acetone. The composition is suitable for diluting alkyd enamels and paintwork materials based on chlorinated polymers.

Polar and non-polar solvents

In order to properly dilute paintwork materials, it is necessary to observe the polarity of the components of the working mixture. Thus, polar substances are organic solvents having oxygen in their molecular structure (alcohols, ketones, acetone, etc.), as well as paints on water based. White spirit is a non-polar agent, so it will not work to dilute water-based enamel or water-soluble acrylic.

Benzenes, xylenes and oils have variable polarity, therefore they are suitable for breeding most of the known car enamels.

First, carefully follow the instructions on the paint packaging. For example, if an activator is already present in the composition of acrylic paint, the solvent composition is added in a small amount and only for the convenience of spraying enamel.

Before you start painting a car or its parts, you must first prepare. If you omit the nuances of preparing equipment and cleaning the surface, then it remains only to dilute the paint. But here things may not be so clear cut. Let's figure out how to dilute paint for an airbrush.

Proprietary Blend

The bottom line is to use the manufacturer's instructions and its proprietary components. Practically - the best option, because. there are no problems with compatibility and dosage. As well as the purity of the components used. But there is one drawback - the high price.

To what extent should the paint be diluted?

First you need to establish the so-called degree of fullness of the paint. Conventionally, this is the concentration of the coloring matter, or, more simply, the amount of solvent already present. The higher the degree of fullness, the more it can be diluted. And the painting process itself with highly filled paint is easier, especially when applied to a car. This degree is ranked the following notation(in order of increasing fullness) - LS, HD, HS, MS, UHS and VHS.

Solvent types

Solvents also differ. First of all, it's composition. Further, the degree of volatility, i.e. how fast it evaporates. Here it is more reasonable to stop the choice based on weather conditions. After all, even if the coloring is done in a room with controlled parameters, then the car will go out into the street much ahead of time complete drying of the paint. Therefore, for the cold season, it is more reasonable to use a solvent with high volatility, for hot seasons, with low volatility, and in the off-season, with medium volatility.

Save on solvent

However, you can save on the solvent by using fairly cheap domestic analogues. But this will require knowledge and information about the type of paint used, otherwise the result can be disastrous. Up to a complete repaint - when the wrong material is used.

To know what solvent to dilute the paint for the spray gun, you need to know what paint is used. At the same time, they are of the following types:

• Acrylic - the most common option, uses a special hardener;
• Alkyd enamels are rare in automotive applications;
• Nitro;
• Water-based - are becoming more common, due to environmental requirements.

acrylic enamel

Consists of several components. Before painting, it is mixed with a hardener and diluted with a solvent to the desired consistency. Considering the question - how to dilute acrylic paints, the best answer would be a special solvent intended for them. But you can save money and dilute with R-12 solvent, or 651st. However, the savings will be small, because. usually it requires only 10-15% of the volume.

How to dilute alkyd paints?

Alkyd enamels can be diluted with both P-4 solvent and pure toluene or xylene. Although the relevance of their application, in automotive version, is gradually decreasing. With the tightening of environmental standards, it may even come to naught.

Nitroenamels

In principle, nitroenamels are not very critical to the solvent used. In any case, the one recommended by the manufacturer is better, but the 646th is often successfully used. Just keep in mind that this is a very aggressive type of solvent, so you need to work with it carefully.

We dilute water-based paint

As you can see from the name of the type of paint, it can be diluted with water, alcohol or ether. When using water, distilled water must be used. The point is that even in fresh water there are many impurities, mostly salt nature. It is they who, when dried, form white coating. In addition, it is impossible to predict how they will behave in relation to the components of the paint.

With alcohols and ethers, everything is also not simple. There may be incompatible options. In any case, it is necessary to try on a small part to make sure that the paint does not curl.

Theoretical justification

In general, it is not entirely correct, in the context of the method of their application, to call the substances used solvents. More correctly - thinners. The main difference between them is that solvents should, roughly speaking, wash off the paint well. And thinners have a different task - they must increase the fluidity of the coloring composition. But most of these kinds of substances contain a whole set of different components, from which they have universal properties. Therefore, they have long been called solvents in all applications.

Polarity

Solvents are either polar or non-polar. It depends on the orientation of the atoms inside the molecules. For example, water is a polar type. Benzene is non-polar.

However, the composition of a typical license plate solvent includes many substances, so they can also have a different degree of polarity. To know exactly how to dilute the paint for painting a car, you need to know exactly its composition. And this, due to the preservation of technical secrets by manufacturers, is rather difficult. Using a laboratory to determine the chemical composition and select a solvent is absurd. Therefore, it is more appropriate to check in practice.

To practically check, it is enough to take a small part of the paint and add a solvent to it, then mix it. If the paint has not curled up (divided into small lumps), then the use of such material is already acceptable. However, it may affect the mechanical strength of the final coating. Therefore, it is advisable to apply the diluted paint on a test surface and allow to dry, after which it is checked for its strength. If everything is in order, then you can start painting using this material.

Applications

The most common and used license solvent is 646 . However, it must be handled very carefully, because. as part of a large number of various substances. In some cases, it can affect the paint negatively. But its use for washing the spray gun is fully justified. It perfectly washes the tool from the remnants of the coloring material, almost any type.

• White Spirit- this is the best option for degreasing the surface, in preparation for painting. But its use as a solvent is not the best option. But it is an excellent thinner for some types of paints, but for others it is contraindicated.
• Acetone- specific in application, both as a solvent and as a diluent. The fact is that acetone is effective only when working with polar substances. It does not react with non-polar ones, therefore, its use, in this case, is useless.

Why is it better to use branded products?

They use the same substances, hardly at a high cost. But the right ratio and a high degree of purification are already worth a lot. Those. branded solvent is exactly fully compatible with the paint, because the manufacturer knows its composition, and he can easily choose suitable option, and this is especially important when painting your car with a spray gun.

In addition, purity is important for use as a diluent. Simple solvents sold in household stores can be quite heavily contaminated. Which in the end can affect the quality of the resulting paintwork.

It is also important that additives are added to specialized formulations to improve various properties. In general, these are retarders that slow down evaporation, which allows the paint to spread more efficiently. It is also common to add components that bind the pigment of the paint, which increases the stability of the characteristics.

Outcome

Certainly the best option than using the diluent recommended by the manufacturer is not found. But you can try to save money by using cheaper components. With sufficient knowledge and practical verification, you can get results no worse. But the savings will remain.

Cocktails are different, and not all of them are designed to be taken "on the chest." The paints and varnishes that we use to restore the car's paintwork are, in fact, also cocktails - correctly prepared mixtures of several ingredients. And since we strive to ensure that the restored car (wing, door) after repair sparkles brighter than the new one, and the paint lies evenly, then our “paint cocktail” should be prepared competently, with sense and arrangement, and not concocted anyhow.

Today you will know

Ingredients

First of all, let's decide on the type of our "paint cocktail": whether it will be ordinary acrylic enamel (which is less likely), or metallic or mother-of-pearl paint (most likely).

Conventional acrylic enamel - two-component, with a hardener. The “ingredient kit” for such materials consists of three jars. For example, a liter of paint, half a liter of hardener and 100-150 ml of thinner. That is, when buying a liter of paint, you actually get about 1.6-1.7 liters of diluted paint.

In the case of “metallic”, the base paint is necessarily coated on top with a transparent varnish - without it, spectacular coatings look nondescript, and the weather resistance of two-layer coatings is much higher. Transparent varnish, as well as acrylic enamel - two-component, with a hardener. But the “base” does not need a hardener - it is one-component.

Thus, the “kit” for two-layer coatings already consists of five cans. For example, a liter of "base", 500-700 ml of thinner for it, a liter of clear top coat, half a liter of hardener and 100-150 ml of thinner for varnish - only 3.3 liters! At the same time, the most diluted paint was no more, the same 1.7 liters.

Making kneading

Before filling the gun, mix the components of the purchased paint.

For the correct mixing of the components, which results in a coating material of the required viscosity, the following conditions must be met.

Tableware

It is important that the container in which we mix is ​​strictly cylindrical (flat bottom and vertical walls). Only in such a container can you evenly mix the components and correctly measure their quantity.

It is better if it is a special measuring utensil in the form of a transparent plastic jar with lid. Such cans are marked, which allows mixing materials in the required volume ratio (1:1, 2:1, 3:1, 4:1, 5:1, etc.).

Measuring containers are produced in different volumes, ranging from 100 ml to almost half a bucket

Also, for dosing and mixing paintwork materials, it is convenient to use a special ruler with marks that determines the volume fractions of the components.

Pour the base into a cylindrical dish to a certain division, and then add the hardener (if added), then the solvent to the desired mark. All mixed with the same ruler - and you're done. Often a measuring ruler is sold along with a paint kit, and on all branded cans the proportions are indicated according to these rulers.

It is convenient to measure the required number of components using a measuring ruler. Then he chatted with the same ruler - and you're done.

Proportions

With the abundance that reigned in the paint and varnish market, it is impossible by definition to give, as they say, one recipe for all occasions. Yes, and you don't have to. There is TDS - you know the rest from whom.

However, it would be helpful to provide some general guidelines. In principle, we have already talked about them a little higher: two-component products usually add up to 50% hardener and 10-20% thinner. The degree of dilution of base enamels varies, as a rule, in the range of 50-80%. Well, see the exact proportions already in the instructions for a specific product: all canned varnishes and enamels have indications in the form of pictograms that inform you in what proportion you need to dilute the paint with a hardener (if the material is two-component) and thinner.

We remind you: in one-component materials (alkyds, base enamels, 1K primers), only thinner is added; in two-component materials (acrylic enamels and varnishes, 2K primers), a hardener is first added, then the mixture is brought to the desired viscosity with a thinner.

If you order paint for selection in the laboratory, then you will be given a set of components (usually ordered as a set), mixing which you will get a ready-to-use material with a working viscosity - as they say, “under the spray”. Or they will give out already diluted paint (naturally, this only applies to the base, since the life time of two-component materials after mixing is strictly limited).

Additives

A description of the recipes for preparing paint and varnish cocktails would be incomplete without mentioning additives - materials used to change individual characteristics of enamels, varnishes or primers.

For example, to create a rough surface - very often the plastic bumpers of SUVs are painted this way - there are structural additives. varying degrees grit. And in general, so that the paint on the plastic does not crack, 20-40% of the plasticizer is necessarily added to it. There are matting elasticizers designed to reduce sheen and coloration. plastic parts type of side pads of Mercedes-Benz cars.

When painting with spectacular two-layer coatings, these additives must be mixed with the top coat (it is recommended to add a plasticizer to the filler primer as well). Read more about supplements and their use.

We measure viscosity

Any painter should be able to control such a vital indicator as viscosity. What for? to match the recommended value. Again, why? To evenly apply the material to the surface, and obtain a coating of the required thickness with the planned properties - beautiful and durable.

"Viscosity" (from lat. viscosus - sticky, sticky) - a value that characterizes the fluidity of a liquid.

What for?

Filtering

The prepared paintwork material must be filtered before being filled into the spray gun tank, as it may contain foreign inclusions that got there during the preparation process, clots, etc. Otherwise, it is impossible to guarantee a high-quality surface, because all this debris may eventually end up on the surface being painted.

For filtration, it is convenient to use disposable paper funnels with a filtering nylon insert (mesh size, as a rule, 190 microns). I inserted the funnel directly into the tank, strained it - it's ready, you can paint!

We fill the paint tank only with the use of a filter funnel

Basic Mistakes

Achieve steadily High Quality work performed is possible only if technological recommendations on the use of certain materials. There is simply no other way for those who want to repair modern cars and repair them with high quality.

Meanwhile, ignoring technological requirements remains the main (!) Cause of defects and errors. As the saying goes, "... so many times they told the world" ...

But “free morals” have always been and will be: we adjust the airbrush “by ear”, we mix the paint “by eye”, we forget about strictly defined “lifetimes” of products prepared for use.

For example, in an hour, the varnish changes viscosity by an average of 100%. He thickens. Before lunch, we stirred it, measured the viscosity - 20, satisfied we left for a meal, we return in 50 minutes, and he already has all 40! Of course, the material can no longer be used. But how often does anyone consider such a "trifle"?

How often does anyone remember that the material into which we did not add the hardener will no longer be able to properly harden, no matter how dry it is. Acrylic two-component materials, after all, are cured in the same way: due to a chemical reaction between the acrylic binder (base) and the substance for crosslinking molecules - polyisocyanate (hardener). And only the manufacturer of paintwork materials can know how many -N=C=O units (present in the hardener) are necessary to react with a certain amount of OH units (which are part of the base) and turn the material into a strong polymer film (more on this).

So it turns out that if we pour not enough hardener, there is simply not enough crosslinking material for the correct curing of the film. The coating is soft, uncured.

The opposite situation - with an excess of hardener (and, accordingly, an excess of -N=C=O units) has the opposite effect - the coating turns out to be too hard, but at the same time inelastic, highly prone to peeling, cracking, and chipping.

So if it is written on a can of varnish to dilute in a ratio of 2: 1, then you should not be too lazy to measure strictly two parts of varnish and one part of hardener. No more, no less.

Correct polymerization of two-component materials is possible only if correct proportions mixing with hardener

Well, the fact that acrylic materials can only be cured with original hardeners is generally not subject to discussion. In acrylic systems, the copolymer and polyisocyanate are carefully matched to each other, and if we take a hardener from another varnish or another manufacturer, we get another polymer with completely different properties.

The jar with the remains of the hardener must be tightly closed, as the hardener reacts with air moisture, as a result of which it becomes cloudy and crystals precipitate, sometimes gelation. To prevent air from entering the partially used can of hardener, it is recommended to turn it upside down and place it on the lid, and store it in this position.

A sensational blog post by Vitaliy Kostenko

Acrylic paints appeared about 50 years ago and to this day do not lose popularity. They are suitable for interior decoration, designed for painting wooden and metal surfaces, plastered walls and ceilings.

Depending on the surface texture and the intended purpose, this material must be thinned. It can be done different ways, and we'll take a closer look at everything.

In its original form, acrylic paint is of a thick consistency, therefore it needs to be diluted. For this, they are used special solvents or products recommended by the manufacturer.

However, you can use a simple accessible means for breeding - water. This component is initially included in the composition, therefore it does not violate the texture and makes the consistency convenient for application.

It is important to understand that the proportion of water must be strictly observed so as not to spoil the original properties. In addition, for the set goals, only clean and cool water will be required, without additional impurities.

In painting works, four types of proportions for dilution are used:

Ratio 1:1. If you add water in equal amounts to the volume of paint, you get a consistency suitable for applying a base coat. The liquid will be thick, but will not stick to the roller or brush, it will lie evenly over the surface.

Ratio 1:2. If two parts of water are added to one part of the paint, a composition of a mobile consistency is obtained, creating thin layer on the painted surface. Used on smooth surfaces to reduce the intensity of dark colors.

Ratio 1:5. If the amount of added water 5 times exceeds the volume of paint, a liquid composition is obtained - tinted water, which will penetrate between the villi of the working tool. When applied, a barely noticeable layer is formed, which will look interesting when painting textured surfaces.

The ratio is 1:15. In this case, ordinary water is obtained with a small amount of dissolved dye. This composition is used to create smooth transitions between shades, gradient color design.

Measure the required amount of water with a syringe or measuring cup to maintain the recommended proportions.

Be careful: dilute acrylic paint You need small portions of water, added gradually. In this case, you can not stop mixing.

In 90% of cases solvents are colorless, with a pronounced specific odor. These tools are used to change the texture of acrylic paints and obtain a matte or glossy surface. Unlike water, which can add "turbidity" to the color, special thinners do not have such a negative effect.

The proportions of adding such funds depend on the type of proposed work. If there is a lot of solvent, the texture will become translucent, if there is little, it will remain thick, saturated color. Manufacturers give dilution recommendations, stick to them.

The use of solvents depends on the air temperature.

When painting in cold weather, use thinners with high speed dry, so that the paint has good adhesion to the surface.

Under normal temperature regime use formulations with average speed drying. They are considered universal and suitable for all types of work.

Solvents with a low drying rate are designed for hot weather and keep the water from evaporating too quickly.

It is important to understand that a properly selected solvent improves the performance of the composition, affects the strength of the coating and color saturation.

Solvents that are combined with acrylic paints:

gasoline and white spirit- compositions with a high drying rate;

kerosene– average value of volatility;

turpentine- slow evaporation.

There is positive reviews about the solvent RELOCRYL ACRYL, which is designed specifically for the dilution of acrylic paints, varnishes and primers.

If the composition gets on a surface not intended for painting, it is washed off with a solvent-washer. The composition is available in the form of a paste. It is applied to the desired area and left for 10-15 minutes. The wash dissolves acrylic, the excess is easily removed.

Regardless of the option chosen, it is important that two rules are observed - the resulting solution should not coagulate, the presence of lumps is unacceptable.

What to do if the paint is dry

Impossible to accurately calculate required material, that's why professional builders prefer to take it with a margin. After interior finishing, there are situations when a certain amount of paint remains unused.

The rest in the jar gradually dries up - moisture evaporates over time, polymerization begins. The more liquid "leaves", the lower the performance of the composition.

Do not immediately throw away the damaged material: you can try to reanimate the paint, returning it to its original properties.

Instructions for restoring dried paint.

Grind the remains into a powder with a minimum fraction.

Pour on 2-3 sec boiling water, then drain.

Repeat procedure 2-3 times to warm up the composition.

Leave boiling water in the jar and mix the contents thoroughly until a homogeneous consistency.

If the paint has turned into a homogeneous plastic lump, proceed as in the previous case. But at the final stage of resuscitation, instead of hot water add alcohol. Ordinary female nail polish, added little by little, can also help.

If finances allow, buy acrylic thinner "Gamma". It is inexpensive, but does an excellent job with the paint, which has acquired a "rubber" consistency. The product is sold in online stores and specialized outlets.

The performance properties of the restored material will be lower than the original ones - the lumps will not completely dissolve, which will adversely affect the strength of the coating. Use this composition for painting secondary surfaces that are not conspicuous.

If acrylic paint has deteriorated after improper storage, such as when negative temperatures, it cannot be restored. In such a situation, irreversible polymerization of the material begins, various substances will be powerless.

Working with acrylic paints has nuances and secrets. Here are some of them:

Water must stand 2-3 hours so that the impurities settle to the bottom. Only after that it can be used to dilute acrylic paints.

When applying the composition with a spray gun, work with branded solvents, adhering to the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. So you get a liquid of a homogeneous consistency and achieve a uniform coloring of the surface.

Rinse brushes and rollers thoroughly, especially if the work was carried out with a highly diluted liquid. Such a composition is difficult to notice, so the particles remain between the villi. The subsequent use of paint of a lighter shade, the color will be spoiled.

Add the diluent to the composition in portions, thoroughly mixing the composition after each dose. To do this, use a special mixer.

Whatever you're going to dilute your acrylic paint with, test with a small amount of coloring agent. If you notice the formation of lumps, you will have to select another option.