So, the autumn preparatory cycle is over, it's raining non-stop outside, and I decided to sit down to update the blog. Finally! :)
Let's talk now about the installation of mounts, now the NNN systems on Svenory. In conclusion, I will describe the impressions of Svenor for the season.

First, install the mounts. Roller skis are the same http://www.skiwax.ru/catalog/index.php?SECTION_ID=699&ELEMENT_ID=10547
Fasteners Rotefella system NNN. Installation is extremely simple: arm yourself with a drill, screwdriver, epoxy, marker, ruler and patience;) It is better to take a special drill, if not, then its diameter should be 3.6mm, hole depth 14mm.








With regard to these mounts, I would like to say that they are much easier to install than the Pilots and Profiles of the SNS system. No displacements, adjustments, picking, put on the platform, marked with a marker, drilled and set.

1. In a previous post, I wrote that for NNN bindings you will need a ruler, measure to the size of the boots, etc. ... So, none of this is required :) We proceed from this situation: the maximum extended mount for the largest boot size will be in emphasis on the metal "fork" on the rollers, this confirms the comparison of Pilots and Rotafella.

Now just move the back of the mount to the desired size (in our case, it's 42)and mark the places for the holes with a marker. If there is no marker, take a screw with a screwdriver and scratch with a screw :)

Here's what we get in comparison

2. Next, we drill holes along the indicated holes, carefully monitor the position of the drill and the place of drilling - the surface of the rollers is smooth and the drill may slip off.

3. We blow off the dust, dilute the epoxy and pour it into the drilled holes.

4. As soon as possible we screw in the fasteners. Then we put the wings and this is what we get at the output.

Do not forget to pour epoxy into the holes for the wings

5. We put the second mount, we admire.

6. We are waiting for a day for the epoxy to harden and start training!)))

And now the impressions of the rollers.
In the time after writing the previous post, my opinion has not changed, excellent rollers, excellent in work, as close as possible to skis in terms of sensations. The platform eats up all the bumps in the track. For the knees The best decision, especially for bad/old tracks.
Let's not forget that our wheels were #3, slow.
What work did we do during this preparatory season at Svenory:
a) power on any terrain
b) long on any terrain
c) speed-strength short (up to 10 seconds) on any terrain.
d) work on power, including according to Samokhin, on light terrain.
High-speed ones were not carried out, as I wrote in the previous review, wheels for high-speed ones are still needed No. 2.
Impressions: I think that in terms of power, these rollerskis gave us a lot. Significantly increased strength endurance. The technique has improved, it became noticeable when switching to Start rollers in the fall: the roll became longer and the foot became more confident. Strengthened ankle, improved sense of balance. By autumn, the ankle stopped turning out on the leg when stepping on the leg. outside, even in our broken-down boots - they are used to it.
Without a doubt, technical training contributed to everything, but at the same time, the merit of training at Svenors is also there. The wheel is narrower than the Starts, with a larger diameter, therefore less stable. You get up on the Starts and they seem super stable.
Training on water and wet asphalt did not reveal any problems. I lubricated it after training in the rain, didn’t thoroughly disassemble the roller, took off only the wheels, tried to drive oil into the bearing with a syringe with a needle, it seemed to work out.
Training in cold weather is also possible, the feeling is almost unchanged, a little slower on the first lap, then more or less warmed up. By the way, at the Starts, the difference in training for heat and cold is more significant.
The quality of components.
During training on the Seminsky Pass on bad asphalt, we significantly undermined the wheels, especially Max, due to the fact that he weighs more. In addition, the guys from the section were given a ride, the rollers were exploited to the maximum. I estimate that by rearranging the wheels (front to rear), they will last another season and a half.
The platform is alive and well, although something quacks when I push in one of the rollers, but I don’t see any external damage and there is no feeling that something is broken there, I believe that this is a mount.
I read that Svenor's problem was in the metal "fork" that fastens the wheel to the platform. Hmm... It's hard to imagine that something could happen to her.
Summarizing, I will say that the impressions from the rollers are only positive. Compared to the Starts, the advantage of Swenor is obvious. If with Marvami, then as you like. Feelings on the skate are close. Marv wheels grind a little faster, it seemed to me that the composition of the rubber is slightly different, and on Marv its layer is less.
I recommend, as in the previous time, to buy roller skates with wheels No. 2.

Roller skis are roller skis. By analogy with roller skates, they are designed for skating on asphalt, for summer training of skiers, for competitions. Among fans of rollerskis there are both novice amateurs and professional athletes.

markup

A pair of roller skis consists of two platforms with rollers attached to them. The rollers themselves are equipped with mudguards. Bindings on new rollerskis often come separately and are classic or skating. Self installation fasteners begins with markings. Attach the ski binding assembly to the platform so that the widest part of the sole of the binding is aligned with the middle of the roller platform. If you are attaching classic bindings for classic running, attach the bindings end-to-end to the rear mudguard. After that, mark the place where the front fixing screw will be screwed in.

Some models of roller skis are sold already marked for mounting bindings. As a rule, they contain two sets of marks for screws. The first one is for boots. big size(more than 40), the second - for small shoes (size less than 40). Mounting of fasteners is best done using a special template to ensure maximum accuracy.

Fastening

Before screwing in screws, pre-drill holes for them. For drilling, use a variable-speed drill and drills that provide the desired diameter and depth of the hole. If you have access to specialized equipment, use a special drill with an extension. It ensures that the drill is centered in the drill and stops at the required depth. When using a standard drill, use drills with a diameter of 3.4-3.6 mm. If drilling occurs with the help of a brace, the use of a jig is mandatory: without it, the drill often leads to the side.

For fastening, use the self-tapping screws that come with the fasteners. Although they twist with difficulty, they hold securely and firmly. Before screwing in, the screws can be moistened with machine oil to reduce the force applied to the screwdriver. Unlike skis, drilling holes in rollers must be done with the utmost care. If an erroneous hole in the skis can be closed with a plug, this cannot be done on roller skates. Screwdrivers with PH 3 or PZ 3 bits can be used for driving screws.

Many athletes use alternative method screwing fasteners with countersunk screws type M4x25. The screwing points are marked with a stencil, the lower part is drilled out for steel hollow T-shaped caps. The caps are inserted from below and countersunk screws are screwed into them. Unlike self-tapping screws, this method, although more laborious, is much more accurate and reliable with intensive use of rollers. Also, this option is ideal for those who have already unsuccessfully drilled holes for self-tapping screws.

In the online store, the site presents bindings for roller skis in two price segments:

• Shamov products, which we consider the best offer for children and beginners. For a relatively low price, we offer functional devices of decent quality.
• The premium segment of the catalog is represented by fasteners from the world's leading manufacturers.

We offer two types of mounts: NNN and SNS. Outwardly, they are similar in design, but the boots do not match mutually. separate view, SNS Pilot, features a fundamentally different flexor system.

How to choose mounts

Question answer

• What bindings are used on roller skis?
• There are three types of mounts: classic, ridge and combined. The latter are considered universal - they are equally suitable for classic and skating.

• Is it possible to install ski bindings on roller skis?
• Yes, it is technically possible. But it should be remembered that bindings designed specifically for roller skis are designed for increased loads on the points of attachment to the rollers and on the bolts with which the boots are screwed. It is more dangerous to fall on asphalt than on snow, so the safety requirements are higher.

• How to install fasteners?
• We advise you to order the installation in the service workshop of the company site. Everything will be installed correctly for you and the sticks will be adjusted according to your height.

• What is the difference between Russian and imported ones?
• Budget Russian mounts are universal and suitable for both skating and classic. The use of such fasteners is allowed on entry levels craftsmanship. Import accentuated are divided into classic and skating. The mechanics of their work are different, because each style requires a corresponding trajectory of movement of the elements of the mechanism. The fixation of boots in imported bindings is better. Suitable for professional athletes.

• What is the difference between special ski-roller bindings?
• Roller ski bindings are more firmly attached, have a reinforced structure and ensure that the boot is fixed in a given trajectory of movement.

Do you have any questions?

Ask them to the manager on the trading floor, by phone or online chat. You will receive advice not from an ordinary seller, but from an active skier. The advice of our consultants is based on personal experience and exhaustive knowledge of inventory characteristics.

Why are we

Both at a professional and amateur level - perhaps one of the most popular ways of winter pastime for a huge number of people. Someone prefers to actively relax at the nearest rental office for this sports equipment, but someone purposefully goes to famous ski resorts, in principle, for the same.

You can even get paper jigs or universal jigs to help with self-tuning. Make sure you know what you're doing or you could ruin your new big skis. Technicians also use special drill bits to prevent drilling all the way through the skis. Drill bit sizes vary for ski types: wood, composite, metal cores and children's skis. After the technicians clear the chips from the holes, they put in some glue to help secure the screws.

What determines the choice of attachment?

Of course, one of the main roles in high-quality and enjoyable skiing is played directly by the equipment itself. The range of skis today is very large, and they differ both in brands of manufacturers and in their purpose (cross-country, mountain, jumping). The price range is also wide, so you should immediately decide on the amount planned for the purchase.

They then screw the bindings onto the skis. After the glue dries, they adjust the bindings and test them for the appropriate release. The binding straps need to make two adjustments to suit your load in length and pressure. The length of your sole, in millimeter measurement, is usually imprinted on the heel or side. Using a screwdriver, the technician adjusts the finger to this length.

The height or pressure of the legs should be appropriate for your load. Some bindings automatically adjust toe height prior to loading; others require a certified technician to make a minimum adjustment of less than half a millimeter. This allows your boot to work with the anti-friction device that is under the toe.

Sometimes fans of winter skiing face a very serious problem. How to properly install ski bindings? You can also entrust the installation process to specialists, but if you want to save some money and just gain additional experience, you should understand the technology of this work yourself.

What is a ski binding made of?

The design of this element, which is designed to ensure safety, includes the heel and front head, which must be adjusted in accordance with the parameters of a particular person (weight, boot size, etc.).

To strengthen the binding heel to the boot, it is necessary to move the binding to the heel of the boot. Using a screwdriver, the technician will slide the lock into place and then check it. If stuck too hard, the boot will not release; if it's too loose, the download will just slip out.

The technician will also check the ski brakes to make sure they are the correct width for your skis and that they are working properly. The brake levers must lie flat or parallel with the skis when the carrier is in the binding. When the lock is released, the brakes should swing down and back.

On the mount itself there are special pins, the function of which is to fix the boot. There are also special braces and bends that allow the foot to move freely inside, but do not allow it to slip off. Usually these elements are in the form of a boot toe, which cannot but have a positive effect on the comfort of riding.

The heel of the binding is designed to provide the skier with safety during falls. In modern designs, this ability is called vertical elasticity. In addition, with the help of this part of the mount, the level of vibrations entering the boot is significantly reduced.

It refers to the force required to bind to release a boot in order to reduce the likelihood or severity of injury. Remember those embarrassing questions the ski technician asked when you brought in your gear? That's where they come into play. On your binding, this number is set on the toe and on the heels.

The lower the parameter value or number, the less force is required for your binding to be released. This is especially important when your body is moving in one direction while skiing in another. Bindings that release can prevent knees from rotating in the wrong direction.

How to ensure the installation of the latch?

So, the correct mounting of skis is carried out partly with the help of proper drilling. You need to do this not by eye and not with the use of labels. Often, a special jig can be purchased from the manufacturer, thanks to which a good result will be guaranteed.

For making holes there is big choice drills, each of which is suitable for a particular type of ski: section 4.1x9.5 mm - for metal coatings, 3.5x9.5 for wood, and 3.5x7 mm will be a good solution for junior sports equipment, the thickness of which is less than that of adult models.

How to install ski bindings

Therefore, the bindings will be easier to release. For adult senior or intermediate skiers, the number can be increased to accommodate the increased weight, somewhere between 3. Otherwise, their weight would just make them pop out of their bindings at every turn.

Skiers who like speed and parking jumps may need to go with a higher setting of 6. Racers, professional skiers and alpine skiers use the highest setting, around 8. The higher the setting, the greater the risk and the more you must rely on your skills to free you from the twisting fall.

After drilling all required holes in the ski canvas, a small amount of glue is added to each of them, and then the mount itself is already mounted. The screws must fit snugly, without shifting.

This information can be helpful when thinking about how to mount your ski binding.

Cross-country skiing: installing bindings

It is these elements that make it possible to clearly transfer forces and set the direction of sliding when moving, both in classical style, and in skating. It is very important to focus on how to properly install ski bindings for running, because without this knowledge, even well-chosen equipment will not only bring absolutely no joy from skiing, but can also put the owner in serious danger.

What tools are needed to install ski bindings

However, this should not be considered. Your certified ski technician will check the release of the boots from the bindings. Since toe-lock releases with a twisting motion and heel release with a sharp forward force, experts mimic these actions to ensure release of the ligaments.

You should also check your bindings. With your boots on your feet, go to binding and click to install them. Then take to put pressure on your back to free yourself. If it is too easy to remove, you may need a higher setting.

One of them is the outdated Nordic Norm 75mm, called "welted" by the masses. Its main advantage is a relatively low price, but otherwise its technical characteristics leave much to be desired. It fixes the foot poorly and, despite the rigid fastening of the toe of the boot, the entire sole slides due to insufficient lateral and longitudinal stability. The skating style of running in this case is almost impossible, and the classic one comes out a little better. This installation of bindings on will not bring the owner pleasure from riding, so you should pay attention to the other two types of clamps.

How to install bindings on cross-country skis

Experienced skiers get their bindings checked every year by certified professionals. This way, if something has changed, like in weight or height, the technician can make the necessary adjustments to keep you safer on the slopes. Measure twice, cut once - Carpenter's Rule.

Mounting ties are a fairly simple operation if you are dealing with the popular tying that your local store has a fixture on. Save yourself time and hassle and pay them for it. The only exception is if you know they don't sweat parts. In this case, you need to make sure your bindings are set correctly; Find another store or do it yourself.

These samples belong to the models of a new, innovative generation. These include the SNS system and the NNN system.

It will be quite difficult to compare these two mounts, since each of them is an extremely high performance device.

What tools are needed to install fasteners?

Figure out where you want your foot to be on the ski. In general, the manufacturer's recommendation is for a loading center sign to match the corresponding loading center sign on skis. The only option for this is usually to snap the snap forward. If you are in a park area and switch to the ground, you can move the anchor as much as 3cm forward. For use as a dedicated powder ski, moving the attachment point about 1 cm is quite common.

The operation of these two systems is based on the technology of using flexors and guides, which greatly simplifies the task of how to put the fasteners. On skis with such clamps, the sole of the boot lies firmly and comfortably, and additional stabilization when skiing and classic, and gives a sense of confidence and greatly facilitates the process of movement.

Once you know where to mount, if at all possible, borrow a clip to secure your binding. If there is no jig, remember that without a mounting jig, the rules of the carpenter's rules. Printing errors can occur due to resizing and uncontrolled shifts in the positions that ink pixels fall into. Therefore, a reasonable fitter should question the accuracy of any paper clip.

It's much easier to just cover the ski platform with duct tape in critical areas and then make marks on the duct tape with a pencil. If you make a mistake, rip it off and start again. How do you know if it's wrong? You used Carpenter's rule and caught it when you measured again, just to be sure. The masking tape is too easy to write on to rewrite locations and perimeter parts for alignment.

Functional features of SNS and NNN mounting systems

The level of fixation of each of these two samples is touring, sometimes even equipped with an automatic fastening. This option is perfect for amateur skiers whose skiing skills are not yet too well developed.

How to install ski bindings?

Make sure you have a center mark ski boot on your boot and skis. If you do, line them up, then set the camouflage strip in front of the boot to a little behind the heel with a longitudinal stripe down the center of the ski. You don't have to be perfect here, you will draw the line later, the exact center line.

Installing ski bindings

Then place horizontal bands of tape where the rough parts of the heel and heel will be about the same. Now you are ready to start marking. Don't have one or the other ski boot line? With an alpine boot, simply measure the distance between toe and heel and mark half a point. For a dolly, measure from the 3-pin line to the heel, then mark half the distance forward from the heel.

The SNS system appeared a little earlier, and its main difference is that the fastening design includes only one longitudinal component, while the NNN type has two.

It's no secret that the main difference between cross-country and alpine skis is the connection between the boots of the former and one or another type of binding. And since the differences between the two above-mentioned systems are quite insignificant, here the emphasis should be placed solely on the choice of shoes. Having decided on how to correctly install ski bindings, you should choose boots that will match your skiing style and differ in unique comfort and design, and only then figure out the standard of their fixation.

For skis, you either have to find where the center of the ski boot is, according to the manufacturer's knowledge, or use the old-fashioned guess of using a balance point or chord center, and then adjusting to your whim. The balance point is what it sounds like, the point where the skis suspended in one place will balance and lay level. The center of the chord is the center point in a straight line between the raised tip and the tail of the ski. In the days when telephoto lenses were mounted with contacts on the center of the chords, we found that 1-2 cm forward almost always gave the best results.

Ski bindings

This type of sports equipment is suitable, as the name implies, only for skiing on the slopes. Such skis are not suitable for running, as they have different length and width parameters, and also differ from other samples in their technical characteristics. But, one way or another, it is extremely important to know how to put bindings on skis of this type, since descents from the peaks require advanced level security, which can only be ensured by securely fixing the entire structure on the leg.

It also tended to align, within 5mm, with the same attachment point as the center of the ski boots as recommended by the ski companies. So now you can interpret in your heart how to implement it. This is an important part of doing any good binding work. The advantage of the clamping device when correct use is that it easily finds the center line. Just make sure the clip is snug against the top of the ski, then tighten the self-centering arms around the skis.

The center holes will now align with the centerline of the ski. Don't have a center hole fixture? Use a compass to determine the center line. From the ski boot line, on both sides, draw a line at the tip and back of the ski. Where the scribe line intersects on each side, it will be the center point of the ski at that position. Now connect the dots and you have a longitudinal centerline to align the anchors.

How to install ski bindings

In order to avoid a poor-quality result of work, all actions for equipment of this type must be performed strictly according to the following instructions:

1. In the center of gravity of the ski, which you can find with your own hands, a line is drawn.

Use a paper clip for critical measurements, such as the distance between connected pieces or the alignment of each piece to the length and width of the ski. The key part of this tip is drilling straight down, perfectly perpendicular to the top sheet. The best way to insure this is with a fixture. Drill press - another star option if you have it. Or you can understand it - if you are good and feel happy. Double check the size and thread pitch of the screws you are using.

Pressing is one of the keys to a firm hold on skis. Threading cuts the cylindrical surface of the hole to match the threads of the screw, which, in combination with the adhesive, maximizes retention to prevent loosening of the screws.

2. The fastener is laid so that its front edge reaches just up to the drawn mark. A boot is carefully inserted into the latch, which is adjusted so that its entire base is located in the center, since only in this case the installation of the ski bindings will be correct.

3. Then the boot is removed, and at its location, small holes are made through the holes in the latch, which can be made with an awl or drill with a cross section of 1.5-2 mm in diameter. Then, using a screwdriver or a screwdriver, the screws included in the kit are wrapped.

It never feels well dispensed, like splashing glue, but when these steps are followed, I've never had a single setback. It lubricates the screw as you tighten it, so it doesn't tear the core or bind when dry, sealing in moisture. To be honest, if you want real holding power that keeps the repetitive nature of the telecoat under control, or just keeps on breaking a 30-foot landing, use epoxy. It is absolutely stronger, all other parts of the mountain are equal.

Use a slow curing epoxy at room temperature. Get those skis out of your frozen garage for the night. The guys from Veil turned me on Gorilla's glue. It foams, but this gives it the pressure to spread out and cover every square nanometer of surface between the screw and the ski core.

4. The boot is tightly fixed in the holes made. At the same time, it is important to follow the entire algorithm of actions so that at the end of the whole work the latch is moderately rigid, comfortably fits the leg and meets all the requirements of safety standards when riding.

This manual will help you figure out how to properly install ski bindings designed for riding in the mountains and steep slopes.

Today, as a rule, two competing binding systems are used for cross-country skis of all categories - SNS(the developer is the company SALOMON) and NNN(developer - ROTTEFELLA), as well as their modifications.
Mounting Methods various designs on skis can vary significantly, but when installing any type of mounts, the requirements remain unchanged: to ensure ski control and maneuverability, to ensure the reliability of the connection between the ski boot and ski, to maintain the strength of the ski at the mount installation site.

It must also be taken into account that the performance properties of the ski depend on the position of the installed mount and on the quality and reliability of the installation of the mount on the ski.

Mounting bindings on cross-country skis

Both of the above systems have a wide range of different binding models aimed at a wide variety of user groups - from Olympic-level ski racers, to children, walkers and ski tourists.
Depending on the purpose of the binding, they differ in weight, strength, rigidity of the boot fixation. But for all types of fasteners, the requirements remain unchanged - ensuring:

• the necessary reliability of fixing the boot and ski,
• maneuverability and ski control,
• maintaining the strength and reliability of the ski.

Almost all modern systems ski bindings for cross-country and touring skis provide articulation of the boot and fastening with a brace in the sole of the boot, which is captured by the binding. For traditional species fastenings of all systems - both Salomon SNS and Rottefella NNN, the standard is to install the fastening in such a way that the axis of the fastening of the boot bracket coincides with the axis of the center of gravity of the ski.
Ski manufacturers strive to provide optimal ski properties specifically for the case of mounting the mount at the center of gravity. This provides maximum strength skis, optimal "work" - the ratio of stiffness and elasticity of the ski, the best balance and controllability of the ski. Unfortunately, in the streaming production of skis, especially when using natural materials, it is almost impossible to achieve the absolute identity of skis. Therefore, a big step was the creation of the NIS system, which not only greatly simplifies the process of installing the binding on the ski, but also allows you to find the optimal position of the binding on the ski.
As a rule, modern skis in the binding installation area have a special platform that provides the necessary strength and reliability of fixing the binding on the ski. But inept actions when installing mounts can disrupt the internal structure of the ski, which will lead to a decrease in its strength and to sad breakdowns.
To install the mount on the ski, it is advisable to use a special tool that provides convenience and reliability.
To install the mounts you will need:

• conductor or sample for marking holes on the ski;
• ruler,
• drill(diameter 3.6mm or 3.4mm),
• drill,
• pencil or marker for marking,
• glue,
• screwdriver
• a pair of skis and a pair of bindings.

markup

Using a ruler, we find the center of gravity of the ski and mark it with a marker.

To mark the holes, it is best to use a special "jig", which allows you to accurately position the position of the drill.

We install a conductor that matches the type of fastening - Salomon SNS or Rottefella NNN, so that the marked center of gravity on the ski and the corresponding label - SKI BALANCE on the conductor would coincide.

If there is no such conductor, then you can use a paper template. As a rule, fasteners are equipped with such paper template.

If there is no paper template, then you can simply attach the mount to be installed on the ski in such a way that the marking of the center of gravity on the ski and the axis of fixation of the boot bracket coincide. The holes indicated on the template are marked with a pencil or a slight pressure of the awl through the mounting holes. But this markup method has a very low accuracy, so we strongly do not recommend doing this. At the same time, it should be taken into account that modern fasteners have moving parts and the marking of holes for screws fixing the platform must be done with the fastener closed and assembled, otherwise you will get a displacement of holes by 1-2 cm.

When installing, be sure to use a template or jig that matches the type of fasteners. Please note - the picture clearly shows that for the system mounts Rottefella NNN all mounting holes are drilled in front of the center of gravity axis, and on the system mountings Salomon SNS- the axis of the center of gravity passes under the mount.

Hole drilling

To drill holes, it is advisable to use a drill with speed control and special drills that provide the required diameter and depth of the hole.
When using specialized equipment:
a special drill has an extension that will center the drill in the hole of the jig and stop the drill at the required depth. Drilling is done with light pressure at medium speed.
When drilling with standard drills, a drill is used to install Rottefella fasteners 3.4mm, for installation of fasteners Salomon drill 3.6mm. Drilling depth - 10mm.

Attachment installation

Before installing the fasteners, the holes must be filled with glue to install the fasteners, the glue fills the cracks left after the screw is screwed in and provides waterproofing and additional strength. If the hole is not waterproofed, then when using skis, water will enter the cavity of the ski and lead to rotting of the internal structures of the ski and breakage, this is especially true for skis with a honeycomb structure and made using natural materials.
AT service centers special branded adhesives Salomon and Rottefella are used. It is possible to use PVA glue, it provides the necessary tightness and additional strength.
Usage epoxy resins highly undesirable, tk. Resin solvents can damage ski components, especially skis with foam cores.
The mount to the ski is screwed with full fixation, backlash is completely unacceptable.
After installation, it is necessary to allow the glue to dry for 10-12 hours.

Installing bindings on a ski with a pre-installed NIS platform

The use of the Rottefella NIS system mounts greatly simplifies the process of mounting the mounts, and also allows you to adjust the position of the mount on the ski relative to the center of gravity.

To use NIS bindings, you need special skis with an appropriate platform. To date, the same skis are produced by Madshus and Rossignol.

To install the mount on the ski, the mount starts along the guides until it “clicks”.

A thrust bearing is also installed along the guides. The heel is fixed in desired position using a special key that is included with each pair of fasteners.

For cheaper models of mounts, the installation of a thrust bearing does not require special tools.

The NIS system allows you to find the optimal ski binding position for each pair of skis, taking into account the current state of the tracks and weather conditions. The binding position can be adjusted before every workout or even during a workout. Adjustment is carried out with the same special key - the mount is shifted by given number"clicks" and is fixed in a new position.

The speed and ease of installation of fasteners thus reach a new level. In addition, you can change bindings without any damage to the skis.

Sports Line stores employ specialists who, using special equipment, will help you quickly and efficiently install fasteners. When buying skis and bindings in our stores, installation of bindings is free of charge.

This article will focus on installing mounts on roller skis. What set of tools do you need to have for all this action?

There is a little trick. The screw is problematically screwed into the metal (into the rollerski platform). We lubricate it with some viscous substance (for example, I always use ski wax), and everything will go like clockwork.

If you do not go into details - it works general rule to install bindings (both for classic rollerskis and skate skis): the ski binding assembly is applied to the platform of the rollerski against the rear mudguard and a mark is made for drilling the screw of the front of the bindings. Next, we make marks for the screws in accordance with the holes of the fasteners (if there is a jig, then along its holes).

Use a drill with a diameter of 4-4.5 mm.

For "SNS" type mounts (Atomic, Salomon) - The front mount screw must be 14.5 cm away from the front fender rivet.

For “NNN” fasteners (Rottefella, Fischer) – The front screw is drilled at a distance of 17 cm from the front mudguard rivet.

SWENOR have their own table for mounting bindings on roller skis. The table shows that for metal platforms use a 4mm drill, for fiberglass platforms a 3.6mm drill. Depending on the model of roller skis and the type of bindings, the distance from the beginning of the platform (the starting point of measurement is different for metal and fiberglass platforms) to the groove of the bindings (the place where the boot is clamped into the binding) is indicated. Take measurements from the back of the platform!

If you have any questions, I'll be happy to help!

A little reminder on the care of roller skis.

Rinse after use in wet weather clean water and apply a sufficient amount of grease to the bearings, rotate the wheels so that the grease is evenly distributed, then dry. Roller skis must be stored in a dry place, avoiding direct sunlight on the wheels, because. some tend to deform. Always check the integrity of the wheels, fasteners and the reliability of the nuts on the axle before training.