How to disassemble a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands. Some recommendations on how to disassemble the heating battery

The boiler is working at full capacity, but the house keeps low temperature? Perhaps the problem is with heatsinks that can't handle the load. It is possible to achieve an increase in the efficiency of the heating system if you understand how to disassemble the cast-iron battery, transfer it or build it up to the existing additional sections. The process of building up a heat exchanger, in which a nipple for a cast-iron radiator is a connecting link, is quite simple, but at the same time it requires a number of requirements to be met.

Extension of radiators

Before you build up a heating radiator, it must be remembered that it is possible to carry out work of such a plan only at the end of the heating season. Since, in order to add new cast-iron batteries, as well as sections from any other material, it becomes necessary to dismantle and disassemble the entire thermal device. And if such activities are carried out in heating season, then the entire system will need to be blocked. And when you live in an apartment high-rise building, it is unlikely that the neighbors will be delighted with the prospect of being left without heating for an indefinite period.

Of course, in winter it is possible to transfer heating heat exchangers and build them up, provided that your circuit is equipped with bypass valves, through which the radiators are disconnected “painlessly” for a centralized heating main.

In the event that your batteries do not have bypasses, then, no matter how much you want, the process of building up or transferring a heater will have to be postponed until spring. However, this does not prevent us now from considering how to disassemble and build up a cast-iron heating battery, as well as a bimetallic one. To do this, stock up on the following tools:

a special key for assembling and disassembling heat exchangers (in the absence of such, an adjustable right size);
nipple for the radiator - here you need to select such adapters that fit strictly for the material and configuration of the thermal element;
paronite gaskets that are placed between the sections;
side plugs with a set of gaskets;
a tap for draining water or descent of air masses from the system - at will.

Before you disassemble the cast-iron battery (you can find the video in our publication), do not forget that you need to block the flow of coolant into the system.

In the case when the radiators were already in use, then between its structural elements there is often an accumulation of rust or dirt, which will interfere with the full build-up of batteries.

So that the gasket completely fits the rim of the thermal element, it is necessary to get rid of all these growths. This can be done with sandpaper or a metal brush.

VIDEO: How to disassemble a heating radiator

Assembly preparation

Cleaning of heat exchangers is carried out at home. In order not to damage the coating of the bath, its bottom is covered with thick rags, and drainer it is covered with a mesh device, which eliminates the possibility of voluminous lumps of dirt getting into the sewer system and, as a result, clogging.

Cast iron batteries are completely disassembled, all covers are twisted, after which boiling water is poured into the open holes. Then the heater must be shaken well and drained of water with residual dirt. Then we pour water, but only this time we add a cleaning agent to it, which can be lye, sour-milk whey or vinegar. This time we do not drain the water, but close the sections with plugs and leave them to “sour” for at least one hour. After the specified time has elapsed, shake the radiator well, you can even tap it with a rubber mallet to remove the remnants of rust and plaque. After that, you can drain the solution along with the garbage.

It is necessary to flush the thermal element until the water drained from it is practically clean. In addition, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the batteries after cleaning agents, the remains of which can provoke further development of rust.

Often, liquids for washing heat exchangers are used as a cleaning agent. Vehicle or compositions for cleaning sewer pipes.

Building process

We proceed to screwing the nipple on the left. First, it is recommended to wind it slightly, approximately one turn. By the same principle, we wind the nipple transition element with right side sections.

When increasing the heat block, it is necessary to ensure that the sealing gasket is located exclusively in the middle of the nipple, and the battery section must fit snugly against it.

Then, using a special key, we continue to screw the nipple into the heater section. As a rule, three or four turns are enough for the nipple adapter to ensure a reliable build-up of heaters. So, in turn, the section is tightened until it fits snugly against its “neighbor”.

The next step is to install a special side plug. It is also important to remember that such plugs must be equipped with paronite sealing gaskets. The plug is screwed on with a pipe wrench.

Installing additional taps and painting the radiator

So, after the battery has been fully assembled and supplemented with new sections, you can proceed with the installation of cranes. Recall that such structural elements are not mandatory, they are mounted at the request of the homeowners. So, instead of a plug, you can screw in, for example, through which the accumulated air masses in the heating system and, if necessary, the coolant will be discharged.

In addition, it should be noted that the decrease in the efficiency of radiators may be due to the thickness decorative coating which is applied to the battery. Indeed, after three or four layers of paint, the heater starts to work a little worse. Therefore, if you want to update the color of the radiator, it is best to remove a layer of old paint first.

In addition, it is highly undesirable to take ordinary enamel for painting, since over time it turns yellow, which requires its renewal. As a rule, for painting radiators, compositions are used that are characterized by resistance to high temperatures.

Another condition for creating an efficiently operating heat exchanger is the selection of high-quality Supplies. Unfortunately, today in the market of this segment there is a huge number of connecting nipples, plugs, not to mention sealing gaskets. Unscrupulous sellers, in order to earn as much profit as possible, can sell you low-quality components at the price of branded ones. Therefore, try to give your preference to proven materials of famous brands, or at least ask for advice from knowledgeable people.

After watching the video on how to disassemble a cast-iron radiator, you can make sure that this process will not cause difficulties in its implementation. The most important thing is caution and careful implementation of all recommendations for work of a similar plan!

VIDEO: How to assemble heating radiators

Hi all! this short post will focus on assembling or disassembling sectional heating radiators. Here we will talk about three types of radiators:

Aluminum.
Bimetallic.
Cast iron.

All of them are sectional and therefore they can be assembled and disassembled. Although some manufacturers specifically change the nipples so that their radiator cannot be disassembled with an ordinary key. So, I uttered an incomprehensible word - nipple. Now I'll show you what it is:

This is an ordinary piece of iron, on which there is a left-hand thread on one side and a right-hand thread on the other. The white ring in the middle is between the sectional gasket. In this case, it is made of silicone, but can be made of paronite. The diameter of the nipple for aluminum and bimetallic radiators is one inch, but for Soviet cast-iron radiators, the nipples have a diameter of 1¼ inches. This means that different keys are needed for these heaters. Now let's talk about keys.

You will need a tool to disassemble and assemble the radiator. This "miracle of technology" looks like this:

This is not the only version of this kind of instrument. In stores you can find many design solutions. For example, these are:

Regardless of what the key looks like, its task is to unscrew and tighten the nipples. Personally, I have always assembled radiators using the first key option. It is desirable that the tool be made of hardened steel. Otherwise, one key will be enough for you for only a few joints, and then it will become unusable and you will have to buy a new one.

In order to build a radiator, you will need a pair of nipples, a pair of gaskets, a key, and it is advisable to have an assistant. Twisting radiators alone is an extremely inconvenient task. First, inspect the ends of the sections. The paint layer on the end may be thick and will need to be cleaned with a knife. At the end should not remain any sags and bumps. This mainly applies to Chinese heating appliances, while in European ones the paint layer is usually thin, even and does not require further work with a knife.

After processing the ends, you should see the following picture:

Only no need to use a file to clean the end face! You can damage the planes of the ends and they will no longer compress the gasket.

Now I will show a brief photo-instruction for assembling / disassembling the radiator. So let's get started:

Lay the heatsink face up on a table. Then insert the key into it until the joint that needs to be untwisted. In this figure, the key must be turned towards the fins.

Having slightly unscrewed one joint, rearrange the key (to the lower or to the upper) and repeat the operation. The end result should be:

Unscrew the nipple to the end and that's it! The radiator is broken!

The radiator is assembled in reverse order. See the following photos:

Here, the ends of the sections are already cleaned and gaskets are put on the nipples. Move on!

The nipples are twisted alternately. In this case, it is necessary to compress the radiator so that the nipple enters both sections equally. Otherwise the joint will leak. Then we begin to alternately tighten the joints. You need to do this a little bit, rearranging the key from one joint to another. If you sharply twist one joint, then you will not be able to twist the second one due to the skew of the nipple. It just won't go down the drain. Everything should be as shown below:

After the sections close, you need to forcefully stretch the joints. Without it, they will leak. You don't have to apply too much force, otherwise you can break the key or it will slip in the nipple and you will injure yourself with its handle. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the opportunity to shoot my own video on assembling and disassembling the radiator, so I have to use someone else’s, but as soon as I have the opportunity, I will replace it with my own:

For a change, let's see how cast-iron radiators are disassembled:

The results of the article.

So what can be said in the end? If you need to remove sections from the radiator, then you need to remember one thing - it's easier to do it on a new deviceheating! Nipples in a radiator that has stood for several seasons can stick to it and it will be impossible to disassemble it. But you can add sections without any problems, except for the addition of extra brackets for mounting to the wall. In general, it’s easier to do everything at once and not to redo it later! That's all, I'm waiting for your questions in the comments!

As practice shows, despite the use modern materials for the manufacture of heating radiators, cast iron products do not lose their consumer. And all because cast iron is distinguished by excellent heat dissipation and at the same time has the inertia of energy transfer, being a good heat accumulator. Therefore, for many consumers, when choosing what batteries, what heating boilers, or rather, heat exchangers built into them, their manufacture from cast iron is decisive. For the same reason, many are in no hurry to replace old heating systems that have served for decades.

However, sometimes cast-iron radiators, having a considerable service life behind them, require repair. Usually it consists in replacing a leaky and leaky gasket between sections, which is possible only with partial disassembly of the battery. It is possible that modern cast iron radiator don't have to disassemble. Such a need may arise in the event of a miscalculation in the number of sections for heating a certain separate room, when it is necessary to increase the radiator by adding its structural elements.

In other words, not a single cast-iron radiator is insured against the potential possibility of being disconnected during its operation, which is calculated in tens of years, and therefore knowledge of the rules for disassembling and assembling these products can come in handy.

How to disassemble a new cast iron radiator

A new radiator, which does not last long, rarely leaks, more often the need to disassemble it arises if you want to add (or take away, it happens) the number of sections.

For whatever reason, the need for disassembly arises, the battery, first of all, must be disconnected from the connected communications and removed from the hooks holding it. Before doing this, do not forget to drain the coolant from the system or turn off the taps on the pipes, if any.

You also need to drain the water from the battery itself by lifting one of its sides. Due to the massiveness of the cast-iron radiator, it is better to do the work with an assistant. The product, freed from the contents, is laid flat on pre-laid boards or, say, a sheet of chipboard or OSB, face up.

Now you need to unscrew the fittings (hollow nuts with internal and external threads for connecting pipes to the battery) and plugs using an appropriately sized or adjustable wrench.

It's time to disconnect the section and for this you need a special plumbing radiator wrench. You will not find this tool in stores, you can rent it in special services or ask a plumber you know to use it. The point is that this makeshift fixture, so no two keys are the same. What they have in common is a working rectangular tip with dimensions of 40x24 mm, which is welded either to a long (up to 70 cm) piece of metal reinforcement or pipe. On the other side of the iron rod there is usually an eye for inserting some kind of lever into it.

Before proceeding with unwinding, you need to decide on the direction of the thread. There may be nuances, but in most cases, if you approach the radiator from the front, there will be a right-hand thread on the right, and a left-hand thread on the left. Usually this rule applies to plugs and bushings on each side, so the direction of the thread can be recognized from them. On the modern models near the inlet holes there may be a marking L - left, R - right thread.

Having decided on the thread, you can begin to disassemble the cast-iron radiators. If you need to disconnect the extreme segments, it is usually easy to find the desired nut with a wrench. When you are interested in a connection located closer to the middle of the battery, it is advisable to make a mark on the key corresponding to the distance from the inlet to the desired articulation of the segments. You can mark with chalk, a piece of adhesive tape or electrical tape, wound in right place. Now you need to enter the key, slightly turning it as it passes through the holes it meets.

Having found the desired nipple-nut and inserting a working tip into its hole, you can insert a wrench into the eye on the other side of the key and try to break the nut according to the direction of the thread. The applied force can be noticeable, so it is better to take a collar that is stronger and more authentic. If the nut succumbs, you can scroll no more than half a turn so that there is no distortion and tension that brittle cast iron does not like. Now the same procedure must be done with another nut that tightens the sections of interest.

The nipples are unscrewed one by one, - one turn - lower, one turn - upper, and so on until the sections of the heating battery are completely separated.

Dismantling an old cast-iron radiator

In order to disassemble a battered cast-iron radiator, you usually have to make great efforts due to the fact that over time the connecting nuts “stick”, becoming covered with a decent layer of all sorts of raids and deposits. In addition, corrosion can partially destroy the hole in the nipple, due to which the radiator key may not be effective. Therefore, by providing possible difficulties need to prepare additional tool which may be needed:

blowtorch or building hair dryer;
angle grinder (grinder) with a circle for metal;
hacksaw for metal;
a small sledgehammer.

It is better to disassemble the old heating battery on the street, putting it on something wooden. Before proceeding with the disassembly of a long-serving radiator, it is desirable to thoroughly running water. Then you can try to do everything as with the new one. If the attempt to break the tie nut is not successful, which is quite likely, additional measures can be resorted to.

Heat the compound of interest. To do this, it is better to use a blowtorch or, at least, a building hair dryer. The heating battery at the junction of the segments must be thoroughly warmed up in a circle, after which, without allowing it to cool, try to break the nut. You can try to do several heating-cooling cycles if the first time fails. When working with hot metal, do not forget about safety precautions, using thick protective gloves. If after that the process did not go, you will have to apply more radical methods of influence.
Saw the junction of the sections. This can be done faster with the help of a grinder. But, at the same time, one should not overdo it, because with such a sufficiently long exposure, cast iron can crack. Therefore, you need to cut with small breaks, and not in one go. If there is time and desire, it is better to do this by using a hacksaw.
Break up a section. In the case when sawing does not seem like a good idea, but you still need to disassemble the battery, you can slowly, carefully (a fragment can bounce) break one of the sections with a sledgehammer, starting from its middle and gradually moving towards the joints.

Assembly cast iron batteries heating

You can assemble the battery in the reverse order. Before assembly, sort out the nipples, checking the quality of the thread and the internal hole for the radiator key. If necessary, replace the nuts with new ones. Fresh gaskets are also needed, preferably from paronite, but silicone can also be used. It is advisable to clean the surfaces of the sections at the joints sandpaper even if they are new.

Now the connecting sections are laid out against each other on a flat surface so that the holes match as much as possible. A gasket is put on the connecting nuts, after which the nipple is slightly screwed into two opposite sections at the same time, first at the top, then at the bottom (or vice versa). The nuts must also be tightened alternately, avoiding distortions. First, the key is turned by hand without a knob - the nipples, if they go along the thread, should be easily screwed in. Only the last turns of nuts when assembling sections of cast-iron radiators should provide strong resistance when a knob is to be used.

Heating, which became one of the first alternatives to cast iron devices. How to disassemble and assemble an aluminum heating radiator with your own hands, if repairs are needed, - actual question for homeowners.

Features of aluminum radiators

In order to competently assemble and disassemble a system consisting of aluminum radiators, you should first of all know the strengths and weak sides that are characteristic of this species. Among the advantages of this type of battery are the following:

The high thermal conductivity of aluminum compensates for the instability of the coolant pressure.
The lightness of the material facilitates transportation and installation. Do-it-yourself repair of aluminum radiators.
The cost of batteries is several times less than bimetallic and copper counterparts.
Enough large diameter passage holes.
Batteries heat up quickly and cool down just as quickly. This makes it possible to install in a short time optimum temperature indoors when the weather changes outside.

In spite of a large number of advantages, they have their disadvantages:

Aluminum radiators cannot be called universal, since they do not fit with everyone and special adapters are required for their installation.
Tendency to air. In radiators of this type, the likelihood of leakage is high, since they do not tolerate sudden pressure drops.

It is the shortcomings of aluminum batteries that require the skills of disassembling them. It should be noted that similar problems are also relevant for bimetallic heating radiators.

Disassembly process

It is required to disassemble aluminum radiators when updating the system, installing additional sections, or if necessary, repair a leak or change the o-rings. It is not difficult to repair the batteries yourself if you follow a certain sequence.

For reference! Of the tools for the work will be required wrench, screwdriver.

Carefully relieve pressure, stop the movement of the coolant. Wait until the heating system has completely cooled down.
Unscrew the coupling at the junction of the radiator with the inlet pipe. It moves along the pipe, which makes it possible to easily remove the radiator and put it on the floor, previously covered with a film. The water remaining inside the battery must be drained.
Remove the filter from the radiator and rinse thoroughly with running water, cleaning it from plaque, impurities and dirt.

It can be disassembled into sections after its dismantling. Between themselves, they are connected by nipple nuts, which have an external thread and mounting sinuses. To spend with them various manipulations you need a special key in the form of a spatula with several serifs. Place the nipple wrench in the mounting slots of the nut and make a few turns. This manipulation should be done with all nipples until the sections are disconnected.

This method allows you to prevent distortions that are characteristic of aluminum radiators. If the unscrewing process is difficult, then there is usually a special hole at the end of the key where you can insert a reinforcement rod.

Disassembled batteries should be thoroughly cleaned inside and, if necessary, all gaskets and seals should be replaced.

In the event that the radiator is disassembled due to a leak, a special solution should be prepared. It is necessary to take epoxy resin with bronze powder. Next, take the cable, which is usually used to clean the sewer, process the entire inner surface batteries and leave to dry for half an hour.

Important! When working with epoxy resin all manipulations must be done quickly, since this substance freezes almost instantly.

Repair and diagnostics of bimetallic radiators is carried out in a similar way.

Battery assembly

After diagnosing and troubleshooting, the batteries must be reassembled. The build process will be as follows:

Lay all radiator elements on a flat surface and carefully inspect. Threaded connections should not have cracks and chips.
Clean all connections from dirt, and grind the ends, removing even a layer of factory paint. You can resort to using fine-grained sandpaper to avoid damaging the surface and leaving scratches on it.
Wash all gaskets in soapy water, and if antifreeze is used as a coolant, then they are additionally treated with a degreasing compound.
Put seals on the nipple nuts and attach sections on both sides. Using a special key, smoothly make a few turns clockwise. Connection work is carried out, starting with the upper holes, then the lower ones are fixed. Tighten the nuts until they stop, but do this with extreme care, since aluminum threads can easily be damaged.
Put a plug on an unused hole, and install a valve to release air on the other end.

The batteries are then connected to heating system, while it is necessary to ensure that the coupling connects the coolant supply pipe as tightly as possible. After the system is installed, you can start the liquid and check for leaks.