Painting hardboard with acrylic paint. How to paint products from chipboard and fiberboard with your own hands

The so-called fibreboard and fiberboard for short is widely used for the production of modular furniture, as a floor or wall covering, various partitions are made with its help. From the name of this material, it can be seen that wood fibers are used for the manufacture of WPV, and natural additives and resins are used as a binder, which makes this material extremely environmentally friendly. In the production of these plates, drying and pressing takes place, that is, the material undergoes heat treatment under high pressure. Let's find out more with you how to paint hardwood floor to be fast and of good quality.

The second name of this material is less known - hardboard. This material has good strength, low thermal conductivity and good wear resistance. But for better protection the surface of this material should be coated with its paintwork material. But in order to do this correctly and efficiently, it is necessary to know some of the features of this process. Since fiberboard is a rather hygroscopic material, it pretty much absorbs moisture, including paint, so before painting it is necessary to cover the working surface with a primer. I can’t say that if this is not done, then nothing will work out, you will paint the floor from fiberboard, but you will spend 2-4 times more paint than usual, besides, such a surface will not be painted as smoothly as you would like .

Drying oil, or other modern alkyd compounds, can be used as a primer. But first you need to properly prepare the surface, for this you should clean it of various dust and dirt, if any, of course, and do not forget to degrease it with alcohol. At the same time, for better adhesion to the surface, we recommend heating the drying oil to 50 degrees Celsius, after which it is applied to clean and fat-free fiberboards.

How to properly and efficiently paint hardboard floors

It is necessary to prime the floor from fiberboard in one go and in one layer so that there are no smudges, and the surface dries faster. Now let's find out how best to apply paint on hardboard floor boards. For this purpose, it is good to use a “fur coat” roller, or take a more modern tool like an airbrush. Due to the peculiarity of the surface of this material, you should not take a brush or foam roller, unless you plan to do artistic painting.

As a paint material, you can use water-based, acrylic, oil, and alkyd paint. Excellent for the floor surface, fiberboard boards under the brand name "ST" are suitable, this marking indicates that the board is superhard. It should be noted that there will be constant abrasion of the paint layer, so it would be good to go over the dried paint with 2-3 layers of colorless parquet varnish.

In addition to the primer, the paint would be good to apply several layers. But this is justified only if you are not going to cover it with parquet varnish. In addition, you can take a more expensive paint, high resistance to abrasion, urethane lacquer glossy paint is ideal. After applying this paint, it will dry for about a day, but it will gain its final hardness after 2-3 days. This is how chipboard floors are painted. And now some more useful information.

Before you start painting, the smooth surface of fiberboard boards must be well sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. You can also apply the paint itself with a spray can. However, if we take water-dispersion paint, then it can dry literally in 2-3 hours after application. It would be nice if the primer composition coincided with the paint. And also so that the varnish does not curl after application, it is necessary that the paint and varnish be of the same type.

At first glance, the operation of painting fiberboard (fibreboard) is not difficult. However, in order to paint products from this material, some of its individual features should be taken into account, which should, first of all, include high porosity. This feature is a consequence of its structure, because this material is produced by pressing wood fibers.

Due to its porosity, this material absorbs significantly more quantity paint than, for example, wood. And the process of preparing fiberboard for painting differs significantly from the process of preparing surfaces made from other materials.

Below we will consider all the difficulties that arise when finding an answer to the question of how to paint fiberboard or repaint old fiberboard. And what tools and materials will be required in order to paint it with your own hands and at home.

The algorithm for applying paints and varnishes to the surface of a material does not depend much on the material itself and includes the following items:

Surface preparation;
The choice of paint;
Applying paint;
Coating protection.

Surface preparation

On a fibreboard, paint is applied only on one side, because. its other side is of little use for this.

The process of preparing fiberboard for painting is relatively simple and will not take you much time. It is necessary to remove dirt (dust, etc.) from the surface of the plate. This should be done with a dry cloth or brush. If the stove is very dirty, you can use a damp cloth, but first wipe the stove thoroughly so that no dust remains on the surface. After the surface has been cleaned, it must be carefully treated with fine-grained sandpaper and degreased, for this purpose it is preferable to use alcohol.

If it is necessary to paint a floor, ceiling or wall assembled from several slabs, then the joints between the slabs must be carefully puttied using reinforced tape. For these purposes, you will need a special putty, because. ordinary putty, given the "springy" properties of fiberboard, will not work here. Alkyd putty - filler copes well with such tasks. Due to its plasticity, it is able to withstand dynamic loads and prevent deformation or rupture of the material. The putty is applied thin layer, which must be immediately strengthened with tape, or use a sickle strip for this.

The video tells what fiberboard is and how it is produced:

If the coating has a large number of seams, you can seal the seams with acrylic-silicone sealant. This material gives a sufficiently strong and waterproof connection and any paint fits well on it.

After the putty is completely dry, the seams should be carefully treated with the same fine-grained sandpaper.

The resulting surface must be carefully primed. Without a primer, the fiberboard surface will absorb a lot of paint and, moreover, the paint will lie unevenly on such a surface. As a primer, special alkyd solutions or drying oil heated to 50 ° C should be used. The primer is applied in one layer. It is not recommended to apply a second coat of primer, because. this can lead to surface irregularities. In addition, the primer on the surface of the fiberboard dries for a long time.

Paint selection

Paint for painting fiberboard can be any: water-based; alkyd; oil; acrylic. If you want to paint a hardboard floor, you can use CT (super hard) paint, which is durable. For application to furniture facades or walls, it is recommended to use acrylic or water-dispersion paints. When choosing a paint, carefully read its characteristics. Modern manufacturers indicate on the packaging all the necessary information about the methods of applying paint and the average consumption when applied to various materials.

For painting fiberboard completely depends on your taste preferences. The use of several types of paints and varnishes allows you to give the surface a spectacular look. For example, to make the surface impress, we take a diluted bituminous varnish and apply it to the surface with a special brush, which gives the surface the desired look. White enamel applied to the surface of fiberboard imitates appearance plastic, and water-based paints make the surface of the plate matte.

Paint application

It is not recommended to use brushes or a foam sponge to apply paint to the surface of fiberboard. Using these tools will result in uneven paint application and streaks on the surface. Apply the paint with a roller or spray gun. If the surface area to be painted is small, then it makes sense to purchase several cans of paint equipped with sprayers. The main disadvantage of this approach is their high cost.

Cover protection

Modern paints make it possible to form a sufficiently durable coating, well protected from wiping and other mechanical deformations. Therefore, it is not necessary to protect the resulting coating with varnish. At the same time, applying a layer of varnish (or several layers) will not only enhance the reliability of the coating and extend its service life, but also give it a richer and more presentable look.

In conclusion, it should be noted that painting fiberboard products is not the only way to decorate them. For example, you can get a reliable and, very importantly, water-repellent coating in the following way: ordinary paper wallpaper without embossing. After the wallpaper has completely dried, the surface is covered with several. Such a floor will last a long time and will reliably protect the room from moisture. An added advantage This approach leaves a lot of room for design solutions- the surface of the floor, due to the wallpaper pattern, will have a unique look.

Fibreboards are used for the production of furniture, floor and wall coverings, construction of partitions and enclosing structures. However, not everyone knows how to paint fiberboard, because this material is different from ordinary plywood or wood. We will tell you how the fiberboard is prepared for painting, and how the painting work is performed.

Painting fiberboard - Fiberboard is sometimes painted - can be done with a brush.

Painting of fibreboards

Peculiarities

Before you paint fiberboard, you should find out what kind of material it is and what its features are. As the name suggests, these are boards made from wood fibres. Fibers are obtained in different ways: by processing wood chips and shavings, plant fires, crushed wood and other waste from the woodworking industry.

The fibers are collected and pressed under heating with the addition of synthetic resins, as well as water-repellent additives (paraffin, rosin) and pectol. Soft varieties of this product can be produced without the addition of resins, due to the lignin released from the cells of wood fibers during pressing. Also, various targeted additives are introduced into the composition of the plates - flame retardants, fungicides and antiseptics.

As a result, sufficiently strong and smooth plates are obtained, which are characterized by such qualities:

High strength. Marks of plates of the ST series can be used for the construction of floors, carriages, furniture and other structures that require the ability to withstand high mechanical loads;
Low price. Due to the fact that the material is produced from waste, its cost is much lower than the cost of solid wood or plywood. This explains the popularity of this product in various areas of production and construction;
moisture resistance. With appropriate processing, fiberboard can withstand high humidity and be used as a building envelope in car building, packaging production and other areas of the economy and industry;
Durability. Factory impregnation with special preparations makes the plates unsuitable for the nutrition of fungi and bacteria, as well as insects and other pests. This allows the material to serve for a long time without any significant changes in composition and structure.

Important! Modern MDF material is a kind of fiberboard, only for its production they use fibers of certain types of wood and a special pressing technology.

Attention! Except general characteristics, we want to highlight one more, at first glance, insignificant feature. This feature lies in the fact that, in view of some technological subtleties, material very actively absorbs and absorbs liquids. This is important from a painting point of view.

materials

Any paint for wood is suitable for working with plates. Since floor coverings are most often made from this material, let's talk about this area of \u200b\u200bfinishing.

The paint for the fiberboard floor is selected taking into account the characteristics of the operation, the following options are possible:

. Suitable for any wear-resistant floor coverings based on natural or synthetic drying oils. Most often, compositions based on pentaphthalic drying oils modified with alkyd resins (PF-115, PF-226, etc.) are used;
Wear-resistant acrylic paints based on water dispersions. More expensive but also more quality option coverings, especially for living rooms and bedrooms;
Alkyd-urethane and epoxy compounds. They are distinguished by high strength and reliability, but also quite expensive and difficult to apply, as they often consist of two components and require preliminary preparation, taking into account the lifetime of the diluted material.

Important! Since fiberboard is one of the cheapest flooring options, it would be logical to assume that its finish should also be on the bottom. price category. Therefore, in the future we will consider the processing of plates with PF-226 oil enamel paint.

Execution of work

Now about how to paint a hardboard floor.

If you intend to do the work yourself, our instructions will help you:

Before painting hardboard floors, the boards must be prepared. To do this, they should be cleaned of dust and dirt, putty cracks and degrease the surface with technical alcohol. Next, heat the oksol drying oil to 50 degrees and apply with a brush in one layer over the entire surface;

After complete drying and thoroughly mix the contents. For greater fluidity, you can slightly dilute the composition with white spirit or solvent;

Apply with medium pile. We make the layer thin, shade the coating evenly over the entire floor;

We are waiting for the enamel to dry completely - at least a day. Then we apply the next layer, but with undiluted paint. We finish the work by applying the third layer after the second has completely solidified.

Important! Alkyd enamel is toxic, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area using a respirator and other personal protective equipment.

Conclusion

fiberboard - widely used construction material especially for floors and walls. Painting plates allows you to make them more attractive and extend their life.

The instructions and videos in this article will help you understand the intricacies of painting.

In this article, we will consider a number of topical issues, one way or another related to how and with what to paint fiberboard on the ceiling. Similar questions have to be faced when carrying out both capital and cosmetic repairs. But before proceeding with the choice of paints and varnishes, let's decide what the surface is, on which it is supposed to apply paintwork materials.

The main characteristics of the base

The abbreviation DVP is deciphered as follows:

the letter "P" means a plate;
the letter "D" indicates that the material is made of wood;
The letter "B" means that the board is not made using solid wood, but from individual fibers, which, by mixing with special resins, are glued together into a material that is homogeneous in composition.

As a rule, one of the sides of the fibreboard is made laminated. For this reason, this material can be used without painting. But if color performance the laminated side does not fit into the interior, you still have to paint the stove.

Before you decide how to paint the fiberboard on the floor or on the ceiling, the base must be properly prepared. Fiberboard, or as it is also called hardboard, is a porous material prone to excessive absorption of paints and varnishes. Therefore, initially you need to think about how and with what to process fiberboard before painting in order to avoid overspending paintwork materials.

The way out in this situation will be the use of special primers, which will simultaneously strengthen the surface of the plate and reduce its degree of porosity by an order of magnitude. After deciding how to cover the fiberboard before painting, the base surface must be sanded without fail to ensure better adhesion with the primer.

Again, when choosing how to paint fiberboard on the ceiling or on the walls, you need to decide on the type of tools used. From our experience, we suggest using a velor roller, both when applying the primer and when painting, since the use of a brush and a spray gun is unlikely to achieve the desired result.

LMB selection

As already mentioned, before painting the fiberboard on the wall, it should be primed. Given the features of hardboard, it can be assumed that not every composition is suitable for surface preparation. The best solution in this case, water primers will become deep penetration.

Hardboard is a more porous material than solid wood. The deep penetration primer, in turn, will fill the pores and thus minimize the degree of porosity not only on the surface, but throughout the entire thickness of the slab.

In the photo - impregnations that can be used to process fiberboard

Acrylic primers with latex fillers and antiseptic additives have proven themselves well in relation to porous materials. Such priming materials not only minimize the porosity of the base, forming a smooth hydrophobic coating, but also prevent the subsequent appearance of mold.

There are no special requirements for the choice of paints and varnishes for application to properly primed hardboard. The fact is that properly laid soil reduces the moisture permeability of fiberboard, and therefore the paint practically does not penetrate into the thickness of the slab.

Important: In order to ensure the maximum quality of painting, it is advisable to use a paint made on the basis of the same components as the primer. For example, if acrylic primer is used as a preparation for hardboard, it is recommended to use acrylic paints, since this way maximum strength and durability of the coating.

If the question of how to paint fiberboard is still relevant, we can recommend alkyd enamels, the price of which is considered the most reasonable. To apply such coatings, the surface of fiberboard can be prepared using drying oil as a primer.

Drying oil is applied to the surface of the hardboard in two layers with an interval necessary for the complete drying of each previous layer. Qualitatively laid drying oil, as well as acrylic compounds, penetrates into the pores of the plate, forming a moisture-proof surface.

Note! Alkyd enamels can be applied in one or two layers.

Features of painting work

Instructions for carrying out painting work on fibreboard starts with the application of a primer.

This is done as follows:

We attach fine-grained sandpaper to it and pass it over the entire surface of the plate. Such a measure will significantly increase the degree of adhesion of paintwork materials and fiberboard.
Then carefully sweep the surface with a soft brush with a long pile in order to remove all dust.
We uncork the container with the primer composition and mix it thoroughly.
Pour the primer into the paint tray and use a foam or velor roller to coat the substrate to be treated. We try not to leave smudges, as they will degrade the quality of the finished paintwork.
The primer is applied in two layers with a break of 2 hours for drying. The average impregnation consumption is about 1 liter per 10 square meters.

Important: If there are gaps that are not closed at the place where the plates are joined, it's time to putty them. This will require a sickle mesh and. You can do without a special mesh, simply filling the seam with putty, but there is a possibility that a crack will go along the seam line.

You can proceed to the next stage, that is, you can paint after the treated base has completely dried. Drying time depends on the temperature and moisture content of the air in the room. On average, we start the next stage in 1-2 days.

For and brush maklavitsu. The brush is the best tool for applying paint to areas of contiguity and corners.

We do it like this:

Mix the paint and bring to the desired consistency using the thinner specified in the instructions.
Pour the composition into the paint tray and, immersing the roller in it, apply paint to the base.
We paint in one or two layers, depending on the characteristics of the paintwork used and in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Conclusion

Now you know how to paint hardboard structures with your own hands. Moreover, now you know what materials it is advisable to use for this. It remains to purchase everything you need, including painting tools and get to work.

Do you have any questions? You can find exhaustive answers and explanations by watching the video in this article.

Yulia Kosheleva's recommendations for oil primer.

I recommend writing small works on cardboard or hardboard. Hardboard (laminated) can be bought and asked to be cut in any large hardware store. For the course, these are the sizes: 20-30 cm and 30-35 cm. It is better to have such formats for a course of 6-10 pieces.
But cardboard can be bought at art and stationery stores. The thickness of the one that suits us is about 1mm. That is, it is not quite thin cardboard. You can buy already primed cardboard in stores.
But oil is not written on an unprepared basis. In fact, no matter how much you would like to "just buy ready-made foundations", you can easily do the foundations for small jobs yourself and get the best quality than store.
So, what is needed for this?
The best friend of a person who has begun to deal with oil is the ACRYLIC PRIMER from the Sonnet company. You can buy it in any art salon and almost everywhere. And more for cooking. simple basics you will need PVA glue.
To apply the primer, you need a small plate and a velor construction roller is best, about 10 cm long (also bought at a hardware store along with a handle).
It is undesirable to apply the primer with brushes, because it will not lie very evenly.
THE PROCEDURE FOR SIMPLE PREPARATION OF THE BASIS IS THIS:
1. PVA glue is slightly diluted with water and applied with a large brush to cardboard or a piece of hardboard. It's called PROCESSING. That is, a layer of adhesive that "blocks" the absorbent properties of the base. Dry.
2.Now apply a layer of white primer with a roller. And dry.
3. Another layer of soil. We dry. In the second layer, you can add quite a bit of PVA glue directly to the ground. This procedure is called PRIMER.
4. Or apply a little more glue on top of the already dried layers of soil with a thin layer. This is called FINISHING SIZING.
An option to add glue to the second coat of primer for those who like more absorbent bases. And here's an option with a clean glue application at the very end for those who like less absorbent, more slippery foundations. Here I propose to make a couple of different ones and just decide on "predilections". you will immediately understand what is more pleasant for you.
If you bought primed cardboard, and it absorbs everything, do this with it. as if you bought it clean, that is, glue and prime according to our main scheme first.
------- CANVAS ON CARDBOARD -------
For the course, you will need canvases on cardboard measuring approximately 35-45 cm, 30-50 cm. There are four in total. That is, for the course you will have at least four smaller works and four larger ones on canvas. I do not recommend stretched canvases for this course. Buy them only if you are "well acquainted" with them.
3. SEPARATE ITEM: PRE-WORK REHABILITATION OF PURCHASED CANVAS
Oddly enough, even for decent money it is not always possible, or rather, in about half of the cases, you cannot buy good basics. Their factory production, machine oil getting on them when cutting, the absence of sizing, an insufficient number of soil layers - these are just some of those "miracles". which we encounter in live and online classes all the time.
What to do? The easiest thing to do with commercial canvas is to add another layer of acrylic primer with a roller. Further, before work, we wipe the canvas with oil. This blocks most of the remaining “interference. If you bought a canvas on cardboard that behaves “generally strange”, absorbs paint like a sponge, or some stains appear after oiling, then just change it to another one. And this canvas later, when the oil is absorbed, add another 1-2 layers of soil, but not with PVA glue, but with the addition of ordinary edible gelatin (buy in grocery store). But as? Very simple: soak gelatin in water, but add 4 times less water. than indicated on the bag (after all, you do not eat it). Then, when it swells, heat it up a little on the stove until the granules dissolve. Add it to the acrylic primer, a little 1 part gelatin to 7 parts soil approximately. And roll this mixture onto the canvas with a roller. After drying, repeat the process. This process is for the "most notorious")))) canvases, but you will know just in case how to organize "rehabilitation" for such canvases.