Growing strawberries from seeds at home. Proper planting of strawberries with seeds: the secrets of successful germination and seedling care

This strawberry has many advantages. She initially does not have diseases that are usually inherited during whisker reproduction, huge selection varieties for every taste, the ability to order seeds of any variety by mail, the ability to improve varieties and create your own. There is only one minus of growing strawberries from seeds - it is several times more difficult to do than other common garden crops. The main difficulty is the tight germination of strawberry seeds and the long germination time (up to 40 days). All this time the earth must be wet, and this ideal conditions for the development of fungi and mold, which will strive to destroy your crops. But let's go in order. The optimal time for sowing strawberry seeds is from the 20th of January to the end of February. In general, of course, seedlings can be grown at least all year round, but strawberries sown in mid-January by May will already gain enough mass and root system for planting, which will allow it to begin to bear fruit at the end of June.

Soil preparation

Particular attention should be paid to the soil - it must be disinfected from harmful microorganisms. This can be done in the following ways:

Calcining the soil for seedlings in the oven. Its essence is as follows - you need to take an iron pan or a deep baking sheet, pour soil into it, after sifting it from organic components (sticks, twigs, etc.) and put in the oven with a temperature of 200-300 degrees for 2 hours.

Steaming the soil for seedlings. We take a large pot or bucket, put a colander on it. Pour in enough water so that it does not reach the bottom edge of the colander. From the inside, cover the colander with gauze, pour the soil into the gauze. Thus, it is necessary to boil the soil for 40-50 minutes.

Heating the soil in the microwave. This is the most modern way and the fastest - it takes only 4-5 minutes to warm up. Just do not forget that iron dishes cannot be put in the microwave, and thin plastic melts easily.

Soaking strawberry seeds

You can pre-soak the seeds in growth stimulants.

Seed stratification

Stratification is a kind of push for seeds to germinate in order to bring them out of hibernation. For strawberries, the most common method of stratification is as follows: Fill the form with lightly compacted soil, not falling asleep to the edges of 1-2 cm. Snow is densely poured on top, tamping it a little. Strawberry seeds are distributed over the surface of the snow and placed on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. They should stay there for 2-3 days. During this time, melting snow (it’s cold in the refrigerator, but the temperature is still above zero, so don’t be afraid that the snow is melting) will draw strawberry seeds into the soil to the desired depth - not too deep, but it won’t let you move when watering from a sprayer. After 3 days, we take out the containers with seeds from the refrigerator and put them in heat.

Germination of strawberry seeds

This stage is one of the most exciting. Within 7-30 days, we will have to expect roots to break through, rushing deep into the earth and sprouts, striving for light. We put the containers with soil and seeds that we took out of the refrigerator in a warm and lit place, covering the seedlings with a film. (We left 2 cm above the surface, as I wrote above? This should be enough). In the role of a greenhouse, you can use boxes, plastic cans, five-liter bottles, suitable as a greenhouse roof cling film or regular plastic bag. We create as airtight a structure as possible so that it is warm and humid inside. The optimal humidity inside the greenhouse is when fog forms on the transparent lid or glass. But basically you will see drops there that need to be removed both from the lid and from the walls. In general, all excess moisture we will need to dry with paper towels or toilet paper, and also be sure to ventilate the greenhouse once or twice a day, opening it for 1-2 minutes. If, on the tray with crops, a direct sunlight, drops will form on the lid even if the ground is completely dry, this should not be allowed (you can scatter sunlight with a piece of paper on glass). Usually additional watering during this germination period is not required, but if the temperature inside the greenhouse is 22-25 degrees, and drops and fog do not form, you still need to additionally moisten the ground (preferably using antifungal drugs) and restore the tightness of the structure. If the temperature is too low (less than 20 degrees), you will most likely not grow anything except mold.

Illumination of seedlings

Strawberry seeds germinate in the light - this rule must be remembered. Daylight in winter is usually not enough - sometimes snow clouds will cover the sky, sometimes the day is just short. Therefore, it is very desirable to supplement the seedlings with fluorescent or gas-discharge lamps. Additionally, it is advisable to purchase a timer-socket, which automatically turns on the light at 6:00 and turns off at 23:00. Additional lighting at 12-14 hours for strawberries is quite enough, you can also use the “8 hours light / 4 hours darkness” scheme (then the strawberries will have two days and they will grow faster).

Monitoring the condition of strawberry seedlings and fighting fungi

If the first signs of fungi appear on the ground - the earth turns green / blackens or cobweb fibers of white mold begin to form, you need to urgently get rid of the fungi. First of all, you need to remove the foci of the spread of the fungus with soft paper or cotton wool moistened with potassium permanganate. After that, it is desirable to "spill" the earth with antifungal agents (for example, "Previkur" or an analogue) and further monitor the ventilation more carefully. After the sprouts emerge and 2-3 pairs of true leaves appear, the film can be removed - at this time, the plants should already develop a small root, allowing the sprout to stay in the ground with careful watering. I advise you to water strawberry babies from a spoon, very carefully, trying not to hurt the sprouts. You can also use plastic bottle with holes in the lid, but again, be very careful. It is very important not to overmoisten the ground when watering, as this can lead to the development of a host of unpleasant diseases, the key of which is the “black leg”. Therefore, before watering, try the ground with your finger both outside and a little deeper. It is sometimes difficult for a person who sees the seedlings of strawberries for the first time to believe that this is it. A thin stalk rises above the ground, and already at a distance of one and a half cm from the ground, branching into small leaves begins. This strangeness is due to the fact that after the leaves grow and gain weight, the stalk will lie under the weight on the ground and additional roots will grow out of it, and the growth point (where the cotyledons grow from) will remain above the ground. But we can speed up the development of seedlings by adding soil right under the very cotyledons. Additional roots immediately after this will start to grow, and the better developed root system- the healthier the plant. To make it easier, you can initially sow in a small depression in the ground, and then simply “squeeze” the sprout with earth, raking it from the surroundings.

Picking seedlings of strawberries in a large container

When 3-4 pairs of true leaves appear, the seedlings can already dive into separate cups. For this, ordinary plastic disposable cups are suitable, of course, with holes made in the bottom. The transparent walls of the cup will allow you to monitor the moisture content of the earth both on the surface and in depth. When picking seedlings, it is very important not to fill up the growing point of strawberries, from which these leaves grow. If the sprouts have already acquired roots and intertwined with each other, it is advisable to soak the soil in water and untangle the roots with a fork, separating the plants one by one. In a plastic cup, strawberries will live with us until they land in the ground. During this time, she should acquire a good branched root system, thick stems and, possibly, a couple of peduncles (which must first be removed).

Hardening seedlings and reducing night growth

In the period of seedling growth after picking, at night the air temperature should be about 14-17 degrees, and in the daytime - 20-23 degrees. The point is that at night, in the absence of light, the seedlings stretch out, and when the temperature drops to 14 degrees, the growth of the plant is inhibited. From April preferably in daytime take out the seedlings on the balcony for several hours, but you need to make sure that the temperature does not fall below 0 degrees. First, the period of access to fresh air should be shorter, then with warming it is extended until it is completely left for fresh air overnight (before landing in the ground).

Ecology of life. Not every summer resident would think of growing this crop from seeds. And there is an explanation for this - the process is quite laborious. But what is the result! Seedlings obtained from seeds do not have diseases that are transmitted through the mustache from mother plant kids.

Not every summer resident would think of growing this crop from seeds. And there is an explanation for this - the process is quite laborious. But what is the result! Seedlings obtained from seeds do not have diseases that are transmitted through the mustache from the mother plant to the children. Yes, and varieties can be found more interesting.

The optimal time for sowing seeds for seedlings is from the 20th of January to the end of February. In this case, it will have time to develop into a full-fledged plant by the summer and will certainly yield a harvest this year.

But to grow good seedlings 10 important rules must be observed.

1. Choose only fresh seeds. In strawberries, they lose their germination in two years. Therefore, when buying, take only those whose expiration date ends in a year. That is, if you buy them now, the package should say: "The implementation period is until 2017."

2. Disinfect the soil and containers. Strawberry sprouts are very thin, tender, and at the beginning of their development are easily affected by fungal diseases. Therefore, before sowing, the soil must be calcined in the oven or microwave.
By the way, it is undesirable to sow strawberries in ordinary garden or purchased land. It is best to prepare the soil yourself. The ideal option is a mixture of sand, garden soil and humus (3:1:1).
As a container for seedlings, it is better to use transparent plastic containers - mold takes root worse on them. Before planting, they should be thoroughly washed and disinfected - wiped with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

3. Keep the crops in the refrigerator. In order for strawberry seeds to germinate, they need stratification. It is carried out as follows: the soil is poured into a container, not falling asleep to the edge of 2 cm. Snow is tightly packed on top (level with the edges), seeds are laid out on it and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 3 days. The snow will gradually melt and pull the seeds into the soil - just the right depth.
After the seeds have stood in the cold, the container is taken out and placed in a warm, bright place.

4. Cover with foil. Strawberry seeds germinate for a long time - up to 30 days. And all this time the soil should be constantly wet. Therefore, containers (if they are without a lid) are best covered with food stretch film. Once a day, it must be removed and wiped from the walls of the container with droplets of moisture.
The film is finally removed when the seedlings have 2-3 pairs of true leaves.
Usually, the moisture that got into the soil from melted snow is enough until germination. But if the earth began to dry out, it must be moistened with a spray bottle. Moreover, it is necessary to add any antifungal drug to the water (according to the instructions).

5. Provide good lighting. Strawberry seeds germinate in the light. But in winter the day is very short, and there is not enough sunlight for them. Therefore, crops need to provide additional illumination. The ideal option is a special phytolamp. And if it is not there, a luminescent one will do.
Strawberry crops need to be illuminated 12 hours a day. The best time is from 8.00 to 20.00.

6. Prevent mold. If you find a green, white or brown coating on the surface of the soil or the walls of the pot, remove it immediately. To begin with, the foci of infection must be thoroughly wiped with paper or cotton soaked in potassium permanganate. And then shed the earth with any antifungal drug. Otherwise, the mold will destroy all crops.

7. Water carefully. Shoots of strawberries are very tender. If not to say frail. Therefore, it must be watered carefully. The best way to do this is with a teaspoon. In this case, it is important not to pour the earth, otherwise the seedlings may get sick with a black leg.

8. Sprinkle earth. When you see the shoots of strawberries for the first time, you do not immediately believe that this is it. The fact is that an adult plant does not have a long stem - it is shortened and the leaves grow as if from the ground itself. But the young strawberry has a stalk. But when the leaves begin to gain weight, it falls to the ground and sprouts additional roots.
However, it is better not to wait for this moment. The process can be accelerated by adding soil to the very cotyledons. Then the strawberries will quickly take on new roots and develop better.

9. Pick up the plants. When 3-4 pairs of true leaves appear on young seedlings, they must be picked into separate cups.
It is better to take transparent cups - it is easier to track soil moisture in them, not only on the surface, but also in depth.
When picking seedlings, try not to fill up the growing point.

10. Harden before planting in the garden. Starting in April, strawberry seedlings should be taken out to the balcony for a couple of hours. But provided that the air temperature is not lower than 0 degrees. And in May, when it becomes quite warm, young plants can be left on outdoors even at night.
After such hardening, the seedlings will perfectly take root in the open field. published

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Strawberries are grown in almost every suburban area. Its taste and aroma leave no one indifferent. Usually, the culture is propagated with the help of tendrils, or by dividing the mother bush. Germination of strawberry seeds at home from seeds is a rather laborious process. But with its help, you can improve plantings, learn new varieties and always be sure that exactly the species that is needed is grown.

Growing strawberries at home - where to start?

For sowing seeds, experts recommend choosing small-fruited, remontant varieties. They are not very capricious, but the chances of getting seedlings capable of fruiting are much greater. If, when growing seedlings, it is possible to place containers in a light, sunny place, or illuminate the plantings with a lamp for 12-14 hours, then the seeds for seedlings can be planted in February. The first harvest of berries will be available this season. If this is not possible, then sowing is carried out in late March - early April.

When planting seeds, you need to follow the rules:

1. seed preparation. Seeds are placed on a damp cotton pad and covered with another, also moistened with water. Seed discs are placed in a transparent plastic container with a lid, in which small holes must be pierced to allow air to enter. The container is placed in warm place. After that, they are refrigerated for another 14 days for certification. Every day, it is necessary to ventilate the container and make sure that the discs do not dry out.

2. Ground preparation. The soil should be light, crumbly, but not too fertilized. You can use the garden soil prepared in the fall and add sand to it. In order to disinfect the soil, it must be heated in the oven for 15-20 minutes. This will help to get rid of flies and insects wintering in the ground. After warming up, the earth should lie down for two weeks.

3. Sowing seeds. Soil is poured into the container, which is slightly compacted and moistened with water from a spray bottle. Seeds are laid out on the surface with tweezers or matches (toothpicks). Then, they are lightly pressed to the ground, but do not fall asleep. The container is closed with a lid with holes and placed in a warm, bright place, but not in direct sunlight, otherwise the seeds may burn. Before the seeds germinate, the container should not be opened, as the greenhouse effect created can be disturbed. If, when inspecting the container, it is noticed that the lid is dry, therefore, there is not enough moisture, and watering is needed. If, on the contrary, there are too many drops on the lid, and shoots are not visible, there is an excess of moisture. It is necessary to open the container and ventilate the landing.

4. Picks. After the appearance of three true leaves, seedlings are transplanted. They are seated in separate peat or plastic cups, no less than 5 * 5 centimeters in size. At the bottom of the containers you need to make holes, put drainage (walnut shells, sand, small pebbles) and pour soil. The soil should be moistened, make a small depression. Carefully, with the help of a match or a toothpick, sprouts are transplanted. The heart with leaves should remain on the surface. Since the seedlings of strawberries are very tender, in order not to pick and not injure the plantings, the seeds can be sown immediately in separate containers.

Sometimes sprouts can rise high above the ground so that the root is visible. You need to put soil under it. Watering plantings is best done from a spoon, adding water under the spine. AT open ground seedlings are planted in late May - June. In order for the seedlings to develop better and get stronger for the future wintering, it is recommended to remove the first flowers and get the harvest next year. Germination of strawberry seeds at home – effective method obtaining high-quality, healthy seedlings.

See also video:

So the holidays are over, my dear readers, I congratulate you on the fact that we all courageously endured them, I laugh of course, but there is still some truth in this. Standing for hours near the stove to cook various goodies for your family, and then tasting all this with her, you need to have tremendous stamina, you must admit, and if you still look like guests, wow, and it’s hard work. I laugh again.

Today we will have a fasting day with you - we will talk about vitamins that are so useful for our body, and of course, the most useful are those that are grown by ourselves.

And we will grow strawberries with you. You think it is difficult, nothing, a few secrets of its cultivation, and in the fall you will enjoy the smell and taste of this healing and very tasty berry.

They say that garden strawberry does not smell, another matter forest. I will not refute the merits of wild strawberries, but garden strawberries smell no less, believe me, and they are also not inferior to wild ones in taste.

So if you want to pamper yourself and your family with such fragrant vitamins, then let me tell you how I grow bushes of this healing berry in my area.

How to grow strawberries from seeds on a windowsill

When to sow strawberries

Yes, yes, it is on the windowsill that the life of a small bush of strawberries begins, it will then move to the garden, grow a large bush and give its first crop. All this will happen when it gets warmer outside, the earth warms up, but for now it’s January outside, and in order to enjoy a little fragrant, autumn harvest, you need to start working now.

You ask what is right in January? Yes, if seedlings are planted in your area at the end of May. I plant after May 20, respectively, I start sowing seeds for seedlings on January 20-25. All this is due to the fact that strawberry seeds peck for a long time, seedlings grow slowly, especially if the house is not very warm. If it is hot in your country, and the timing of planting seedlings is shifted to a later date, for example, to the beginning of June, then you need to move the sowing of seeds to the beginning of February, or even to the middle.

What varieties of strawberries are best grown from seeds

Definitely, varieties of remontant bush strawberries are the best. What are her charms? She does not let her mustache, which means she does not spread over the entire area, but grows in a neat bed, which can be easily processed during the summer. When you buy a bag of seeds and it says remontant variety, this means that strawberries will bear fruit from spring to frost, with little or no rest. You still know how to collect it.

• Regina- large beautiful bushes with cone-shaped berries, which are 2 times larger than forest ones. The plant is drought tolerant and middle lane Winters are not bad enough.
• Baron Solemacher- also big beautiful bush with long berries, but they are slightly smaller than Regina's.
  
• Ali Baba- powerful bush, large round berries. It tolerates winters well.
• Alexandria- winter-hardy bush with fragrant berries.
• Renaissance- large strawberries, fragrant.
• There are many more yellow varieties strawberries, but somehow I didn’t like them. Berries are tasteless and sour for me. And if you want, try it.

Soil for planting strawberry seeds for seedlings

In fact, no special soil is needed for planting seeds. Strawberries grow well in all-purpose soil, the kind you normally use for seedlings. I do not prepare the land myself, because we have heavy soil, and adding sand or other additives does not improve the situation.

If a mature plant feels quite well on such soil, then the kids do not have enough strength to put roots in such soil. Therefore, I rely on specially prepared soil. And for those who still prepare their soil for seedlings, I recommend watching the video on the page: "Growing a tomato: seedlings at home" . Strawberry seedlings in such a land will feel comfortable.

How to sow strawberries with seeds

It is very important to sow strawberries with seeds correctly, many of my friends made the same mistake, so they did not succeed. They sowed the seeds according to all the rules - they prepared the ground, distributed the seeds over it and sprinkled more earth on top. It was the last step that turned out to be wrong.

Strawberry seeds can not be sprinkled with earth !!!

Even if you lightly powder with earth, the chances of germination will be zero. Seeds need light. Therefore, in order to get good seedlings, you need to take the following steps:

Step 1:Pour the prepared earth into a small and not very deep wooden box. If you are using a plastic box, then be sure to make holes in the bottom to remove excess moisture. The soil was compacted by hand.

Step 2:This step can be done in two ways. The first is to shed the earth cold water. The second is to pour snow brought from the street over the ground.

Step 3:Spread the strawberry seeds evenly over the surface. On the snow it will be more clearly visible how you did it, without it to seeThiswill be more difficult. If you scattered the seeds just on the ground, then lightly press them with the palm of your hand. You don’t need to do this with snow, melting, he himself will press them to the ground.

Step 4:Then we place the box with its contents in a transparent plastic bag, tie it so that there is no air access. Some experts advise, before tying the bag, inhale into it to fill it with carbon dioxide. They say carbon dioxide contributes to better seed germination.

Step 5:Sending seeds, where do you think? So they didn’t guess, not in a warm place, but in the refrigerator. Don't worry, it's only for one day. We kind of let them know that it's winter now, sleep, rest until spring. And in a day - quickly to a warm place, - they say, spring has come, wake up. This process of simulating the seasons is called stratification. It speeds up seed germination.

How many days do strawberry seeds germinate

Strawberry seeds germinate for a long time - from 10 to 25 days, it all depends on the characteristics of the variety, on the quality of the seeds and on ambient temperature. Another very important fact, affecting the germination rate, is the humidity in which the seeds are located.

Even though they are in a plastic bag, and condensation is visible on it, the seeds can dry out and even dry out, because they are on the surface of the earth and are not protected from dry air.

And he will definitely get there. After all, every day you need to carry out airing so that these small grains do not fade.

To maintain humidity at the proper level, you need to lightly spray the surface of the soil every two or three days. Do not overfill - there is no need for extremes.

I usually peck the seeds around day 7. You will see it, it's hard not to notice the white tips near the seeds.

Strawberry seeds germinate unevenly. This process can take a long time, so do not rush to rearrange them on the windowsill, let as many seeds as possible peck, and some will already start growing. But do not overdo it so that the sprouts do not stretch out much.

Sowing strawberries for seedlings - video

Well, finally, I made a video for you. Now you can not only read how I sow strawberries, but also see everything with your own eyes.

How to care for strawberry seedlings

Strawberry sprouts grown from seeds are very tender and their care is special. He must be careful, one wrong move and the sprout can die.

So how to properly care for seedlings? Firstly, after the first sprouts have appeared, the seedling box can be put on the windowsill without removing the bag from it. Just a few minutes of bright sun can be fatal for them.

Secondly, it is important to choose the right place where the emerging shoots will grow. Ideally, this should be a sunny window sill, but you can try growing strawberries in a more shaded place. As the experience of my friends shows, this is quite possible. The bushes, of course, stretch out a little, but based on own experience, I’ll tell you that there’s nothing wrong with that, planted in the garden, they will let out new leaves from the middle (outlet), not elongated, stronger and stronger.

Every day we air the box, let the strawberry sprouts breathe for a few seconds. If there is little moisture, you need to add it, but you can do this by spraying and warm water. Under a heavy stream of water, a weak strawberry will simply lie on the ground, and if it is not lifted, it will die. After spraying, see if any sprout lies, if so, then take a toothpick and gently lift it up.

When 50% of the bushes start growing, you can remove the package, but you should not do this abruptly. They are not yet accustomed to the sun and dry air, they need to be accustomed gradually, starting from 5-10 minutes, and better at a time when the bright sun will not shine on them.

In general, on bright sunny days, you need to be especially attentive to seedlings, either water them abundantly, or remove them from direct rays, it is impossible for the soil to dry out.

You can feed the plant when it acquires two true leaves. But top dressing should be given already with a neat strait, without spraying the leaves.

I don’t dive seedlings of strawberries, somehow very small strawberries do not tolerate transplanting, they die a lot, therefore, in order for the bushes to be spacious, take a box of such a size that the seeds are scattered far from each other.

And as I wrote above, when spring frosts stop making their nightly forays, you can plant seedlings on the site.

If they are hot and bright days it definitely needs to be shaded. Since my bed is narrow and located from east to west, I solve this issue simply, put low arcs and stretch sponbon (agrofibre) with south side. As a result, strawberry bushes receive a lot of diffused sunlight. And this means that the plants do not burn, the moisture does not evaporate after watering, the bushes take root quickly and painlessly.

This method is good because you do not need to pre-harden the seedlings. When the bushes begin to grow and new leaves appear from the outlet, you can remove the sponbon in the evening. Let the strawberries get used to adulthood.

Grown seedlings in this way, by the fall will become a beautiful adult bush and give the first harvest, just a few berries. But already this year you will taste the variety that you have planted.

And on next year from harvested crop you can .

Good luck and great harvests!

I wish everyone happiness, Natalya Murga

This post will focus on growing strawberries for seedlings, but I could not resist the abundance different stories and comments that greatly dilute the essence of the process. Therefore, if you need specific instructions, skip straight to the insides of the post about strawberries from seeds and do not read the text in italics.

About growing strawberries for seedlings

In the autumn of that year, I somehow accidentally wandered into the forum of Ukrainian winegrowers, but because of the abundance of interesting topics, I got stuck there for a long time. One of the topics I liked was about growing strawberries. After reading two topics (in each topic more than 700 messages) about strawberries, I firmly realized that this year I will definitely plant a new bed of strawberries grown from seedlings. Two months later, in winter, my second unsuccessful experience began - I bought two bags of Queen Elizabeth seeds at the market, because. this variety was highly praised on that forum, and began to experiment. I took two plastic boxes of processed cheese with transparent lids, filled the soil in one, and toilet paper in the other.

I moistened all this with water, carefully spread strawberry seeds on top and, having covered it with lids, put it under the light installation. After 40 days (this is the deadline for germination of strawberry seeds, after which it is useless to wait), three different types fungi, but not a single strawberry plant. On that day, the death of the unborn was recorded.

I didn't want to give up (because there was still time until spring in December) and once again re-read the topic of that forum regarding strawberries, plus several other articles on the Internet. After that, in my head it finally developed what needs to be done for successful cultivation strawberry seedlings and how. I understood all my mistakes and decided to try to correct them, enlisting the support of experienced Ukrainian farmers Oleg Yuryevich Saveyko and Chekanova Svetlana Georgievna. Well, dear readers, I want to tell you all this before I forget.

So, the first question is why do we need to grow strawberries from seeds?
For the soul of course! If on cold winter evenings you are passionate about tinkering with the ground and watching the growth of small sprouts, doing jewelry work on hilling barely visible sprouts, watering seedlings from a spoon - try growing strawberries from seeds!

In fact, such strawberries even have many advantages. It initially does not have genetic diseases that are usually investigated when propagating with a mustache, a huge selection of varieties for every taste, the possibility of ordering seeds even from America, and, finally, the comparative cheapness of seeds compared to ready-made seedlings. In fact, about cheapness - this is controversial issue. There is only one minus of growing strawberries from seeds - it is several times more difficult to do than other common garden crops. The main difficulty is the tight germination of strawberry seeds and a long germination time (up to 40 days). All this time the earth should be wet, and this ideal conditions for the development of fungi and mold, which will strive to destroy your crops. But let's go in order.

The optimal time for sowing seeds of strawberries- from the 20th of January to the end of February. In general, of course, seedlings can be grown at least all year round, but strawberries sown in mid-January by May will already gain enough mass and root system for planting, which will allow it to begin to bear fruit already at the end of June.

1. Choose strawberry seeds for seedlings

Not all varieties of strawberries can be propagated by seeds. In most industrial varieties, a strawberry bush grown from the seed of one of the berries will have completely different characteristics. And this is not even talking about the F1 breeding varieties, the seeds of the fruits of which do not inherit the qualities of their parents and they are bred in special laboratories. So if you like a berry from the supermarket and want to get seedlings from it - don't even expect to get the same taste, size and shape. No, you can certainly grow something from this (and I have read many such stories), but it is better to grow already proven varieties that have been successfully grown from these seeds and inherited all the most best qualities. I note that it is best propagated by seeds of small-fruited beardless remontant strawberry(Alpine, Ali Baba, Baron Solemacher, etc.). Such strawberries can grow in a pot at home and bear fruit in winter time- Well, isn't it fantastic?

Not all varieties of strawberries can be propagated by seeds

Growing large-fruited strawberries is much more interesting, but also more difficult. You just need to choose seeds, preferably from trusted manufacturers, with shelf life. Please note that strawberry seeds lose their germination in an average of two years, but this period can be reduced to a year or less depending on storage conditions. Therefore, when buying, take only those seeds, the expiration date of which ends no earlier than in a year. Seeds of large-fruited strawberries are noticeably more expensive - from 50 rubles for 10 seeds and more, while small-fruited ones can be bought for 10-12 rubles for 30-40 seeds.

2. Preparation of soil and containers

As I said, when growing strawberries from seeds Special attention it is necessary to give the soil - it must be disinfected from harmful microorganisms. Peat plates with cells or peat tablets are best for us, but in last resort you can use specially prepared soil, including 3 parts of sand, 1 part of garden soil and 1 part of humus. It is very important to disinfect such soil, the methods of which are described in the article.
I really liked using peat tablets - they cost between 4-6 rubles apiece, ideal for growing strawberry seedlings. It is better to take tablets with the smallest diameter that you find. When soaking the tablets, their diameter remains the same, but the height of the tablet increases ten times and turns into a peat column.

It is better to take a container for seedlings transparent and plastic, because. it is least susceptible to the spread of fungi. Plastic containers are perfect for this role, in which salads and other things are packed in supermarkets. You can also use boxes for cakes, pastries and other things. If you use peat tablets, even a five-liter bottle, laid on its side or cut in half, is fine.

chosen the container must be thoroughly washed and disinfected- wipe with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

3. Soaking strawberry seeds

No matter how many articles I read, soaking is given quite little attention. Someone recommends soaking the seeds in growth promoters, like all other seeds, but some say that this is superfluous. If the expiration date of the seeds has already expired or is approaching soon, it is still better to use some growth stimulants and hold them in a cloth moistened with them for 2-3 days (according to the instructions on the packaging of this stimulant).

4. Seed stratification

This terrible word "stratification" means the acceleration of seed germination. Roughly speaking, this is a kind of push for seeds to grow in order to bring them out of hibernation. For strawberries, the most common stratification method is as follows:

The mold is filled with lightly compacted soil, not falling asleep to the edges of 1-2 cm. Snow is densely poured on top, tamping it a little. Strawberry seeds are distributed over the surface of the snow and placed on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. They should stay there for 2-3 days. During this time, the melting snow (it’s cold in the refrigerator, but the temperature is still above zero, so don’t be afraid that the snow is melting) will draw the strawberry seeds into the soil to the desired depth - not too deep, but it won’t let you move when watering from the sprayer. After 3 days, we take out the dishes with seeds from the refrigerator and put them in heat.

5. Germination of strawberry seeds

This stage is one of the most exciting. Within 7-30 days, we will have to expect roots to break through, rushing deep into the earth and sprouts, striving for light.
We put the dishes with soil and seeds that we took out of the refrigerator in a warm and lit place, covering the seedlings with a film. We left 2 cm above the surface, as I wrote above? This should be enough. As a greenhouse, you can use boxes, plastic canisters, five-liter bottles, as a greenhouse roof, cling film or a regular plastic bag is suitable. We create as airtight a structure as possible so that it is warm and humid inside.

The optimal humidity inside the greenhouse is when fog forms on the transparent cover or glass. But mostly you will see drops there that need to clean up both from the lid and from the walls. In general, we will need to wipe off all excess moisture with paper towels or toilet paper, and also be sure to ventilate the greenhouse once or twice a day, opening it for 1-2 minutes. If direct sunlight falls on the tray with crops, drops will form on the lid even if the ground is completely dry, this should not be allowed (you can scatter sunlight with a piece of paper on glass).

Usually, additional watering during this germination period is not required, but if the temperature inside the greenhouse is 22-25 degrees, and drops and fog do not form, you still need to additionally moisten the ground (preferably using antifungal drugs) and restore the tightness of the structure. If the temperature is too low (less than 20 degrees), you will most likely not grow anything except mold.

6. Illumination of seedlings

Strawberry seeds germinate in the light This rule must be remembered. Daylight in winter is usually not enough - sometimes snow clouds will close the sky, sometimes the day is just short. Therefore, it is very desirable to supplement the seedlings with fluorescent or gas-discharge lamps, which I talked about in detail in a post. In addition to the described design, I purchased a socket timer for 170 rubles, which automatically turns on the light at 6:00 and turns it off at 23:00. Illumination at 12-14 hours for strawberries is quite enough, you can also use the “8 hours light / 4 hours darkness” scheme, then the strawberries will have two days and they will probably grow faster.

7. Monitoring the state of strawberry seedlings and fighting fungi

If 30 days have passed, the shoots have come out and there is no mold on the surface of the soil - you are lucky! Because at first, they usually do not do without them. If the first signs of fungi appear on the ground - the earth turns green / blackens or cobweb fibers of white mold begin to form, you need to urgently get rid of the fungi. First of all, you need to remove the foci of the spread of the fungus with soft paper or cotton wool moistened with potassium permanganate. After that, it is desirable to "spill" the earth with antifungal agents (for example, "Previkur" or an analogue) and further monitor the ventilation more carefully.

After germination of sprouts and the appearance of 2-3 pairs of true leaves, the film can be removed - at this time, the plants should already develop a small root, allowing the sprout to stay in the ground with careful watering. Oleg Yuryevich Saveiko advises watering strawberry babies from a spoon, very carefully, trying not to hurt the sprouts. You can also use a plastic bottle with holes in the lid, but again, be very careful.

Using peat tablets it is desirable to water only through the pan. Sufficiency of watering can be determined by the appearance of a dark spot on the surface of the peat column.
It is very important not to overmoisten the ground when watering, because. this can lead to the development of a host of unpleasant diseases, the key of which is the “black leg”. Therefore, before watering, try the ground with your finger both outside and a little deeper.
It is sometimes difficult for a person who sees the seedlings of strawberries for the first time to believe that this is it. A thin stalk rises above the ground, and already at a distance of one and a half cm from the ground, branching into small leaves begins. This strangeness is due to the fact that after the leaves grow and gain weight, the stalk will lie under the weight on the ground and additional roots will grow out of it, and the growth point (where the cotyledons grow from) will remain above the ground. But we can speed up the development of seedlings by pouring land right under the very cotyledon tomatoes. Additional roots immediately after this will start to grow, and the better the root system is developed, the healthier the plant. To make it easier, you can initially sow in a small depression in the ground, and then simply “squeeze” the sprout with earth, raking it from the surroundings.

Sowing strawberries with seeds (video)

8. Picking strawberry seedlings into a large container

When 3-4 pairs of true leaves appear, the seedlings can already dive into separate cups. For this, ordinary plastic disposable cups are suitable, of course, with holes made in the bottom. The transparent walls of the cup will allow you to monitor the moisture content of the earth both on the surface and in depth. When picking seedlings it is very important not to cover the growth point of strawberries from which these leaves grow. If the sprouts have already acquired roots and intertwined with each other, it is advisable to soak the soil in water and untangle the roots with a fork, separating the plants one by one. In a plastic cup, strawberries will live with us until they land in the ground. During this time, she should acquire a good branched root system, thick stems and, possibly, a couple of peduncles (which must first be removed.

9. Hardening seedlings and reducing night growth

I read in one of the sources that during the period of seedling growth after picking, the air temperature should be about 14-17 degrees at night, and 20-23 degrees during the day. The point is that at night, in the absence of light, the seedlings stretch out, and when the temperature drops to 14 degrees, the growth of the plant is inhibited. But this version does not find confirmation to the stories of other farmers, so believe it or not.

But many people talk about hardening seedlings. From April, it is desirable to take seedlings to the balcony for several hours during the daytime, but you need to make sure that the temperature does not fall below 0 degrees. At first, the period of access to fresh air should be shorter, then, with warming, it is extended until it is completely left in the fresh air for the night (before landing in the ground).