Choosing the right axe. How to choose a tourist ax for a hike: recommendations and reviews

axes in modern world are used for cutting thin trees or branches, for chopping logs. Thicker trunks are now cut with a hacksaw or chainsaw, it is much easier and faster. However, the ax remains an important tourist tool.

When choosing an ax, you must first decide on the ratio of iron and steel, as well as how the blade is planted on the ax handle. This is a universal tool for a tourist, a hunter, which you need to choose thoughtfully. The optimal length of the handle should be equal to the length of the hand of its owner. Hold the handle of the ax handle under your arm, and try to take the blade with your hand - if you succeeded, then the length of this ax is quite suitable.

But, nevertheless, the sharpness and shape of the ax is more important than the size. Hunting axes have a narrow beard, sharply sharpened - after all, their scope is cutting soft wood for the preparation of firewood. If you take dry branches for a fire, it is better to break them with a butt, because due to dryness the tree is very hard and your ax will quickly become dull.

The balance of the ax that you will use is also very important. To choose an ax with optimal balance, take it by the handle in the front, lay the ax horizontally, relax your hand and see if the blade lies straight, or is shifted down or up. A well-balanced ax should have the blade as horizontal as possible.

The ax blade must also be well sharpened. Good - does not mean “like a razor” at all, axes have other tasks, depending on what this tool will be used for. If you choose an ax with an inappropriate sharpening, it will either get stuck in the wood after each blow, or become dull after a couple of blows. The blade of the universal ax should be convex, this adds reliability and reduces the likelihood of getting stuck between the fibers of the tree, and also protects the toe and heel from wear.

An ax for soft wood has a blade angle of just under 30 degrees with a convexity of about 20, for hard wood - 35 and 27-30 degrees, respectively; the blade of the cleaver has an angle of 22 degrees, and the ax for splitting firewood - 40, and the convexity of both of these axes is only 10 degrees. The shorter the blade, the better the ax is for hardwood, and vice versa - long blades are great for cutting soft wood. Axes designed for cutting branches from trunks have the longest blades - they make it easier to hit thin branches.

How to choose the right ax

The general rule is this - the more accurate work with an ax you will produce, the more straight the blade should be, and roundness is added for a more versatile hunting tool. Competent rounded sharpening also allows the ax itself to throw out the chips formed during impacts from the notch. good ax should not be planted deep into the tree, but should be cut down well.
The axes also differ in weight. If you choose an ax for cutting small branches, chips, a light small hatchet is better for you, it is easier for them to swing. Branches of small thickness are cut not so much due to the large weight of the ax, but due to the span. Axes weighing more than 1 kg are considered heavy, and such tools are well suited for chopping and chopping firewood, when you have to apply maximum weight.

Consider also the shape of the handle. A long handle with an outward/downward curved head allows for the most powerful blow, and a more accurate blow is easier to strike with a short ax with a bent back/up ax handle.

The hatchet is usually made of wood - hickory (walnut) or ash. There is almost no load on the ax when hitting, but when you pull out a stuck ax, the heaviest loads fall on it. In order for your ax to last a long time, only vertical loads should be applied to the ax handle, that is, by lowering and raising the blade. Trying to widen a crack, for example, by applying sideways blows can break your hatchet.

Wood for an ax handle should be elastic, light and durable. The most suitable part of the trunk is closer to the bark - the core of the tree is too soft, and lower to the roots - there the tree is even stronger. The smoother the annual rings, and the thicker the trunk, the better the ax handle from such a tree will be. The more annual rings that remain intact and intact, the better.
It is better to attach the ax head to the most durable part - therefore, if you make an ax handle yourself, mark the desired end in advance (from the side of the tree roots). Annual rings on the ax handle should go along the sides (i.e. the wood fibers themselves should go in the cut from top to bottom, and not obliquely or from right to left) - this way the ax handle will better withstand vertical loads and be stronger.

In addition to the walnut and ash already mentioned above, maple, alder, cherry, apple, plum, mountain ash are suitable. Worse suitable for making an ax handle is birch, oak or beech. The handle will not crack if the ends are dipped in wax before drying the wood. Drying wood will not shrink if you tie a brick from below, and the wood must be dried in a dry and shady place. It usually takes about a year for homemade handles to dry well.

An ax is a rather dangerous weapon, and can cause harm, often quite serious. Therefore, the blade must always be in a case in field conditions so as not to injure anyone and not scratch uniforms or weapons while hunting. The simplest type of ax cover is a piece of hose cut along.

Updated: 03.10.2018 15:22:49

Judge: Zalman Rivlin

For a Russian person, an ax is a familiar tool that was held in the hands of distant ancestors. With its help, huts were cut down, palaces were erected, baths and outbuildings were assembled. The ax helped to prepare firewood for the whole winter. Over time, the tool has undergone a number of improvements and modifications. but classical form remained virtually unchanged. Today on sale there are models of different sizes, they differ in weight, shape and price. To choose the right tool, you should pay attention to several parameters.

How to choose a quality ax

1. Appointment. First of all, it is necessary to designate a list of tasks that will be assigned to the chopping product. There are universal models, they are most often bought by owners of private houses. Some axes are designed for professional woodworking, carpenters or joiners need them. And the most compact and light hatchets help tourists out on a hike.
2. Blade. A major difference is observed in the shape of the blade. For chopping firewood, thickened products are better suited, in which the cutting part does not have a very sharp angle. This shape prevents the ax from getting stuck in the log. But to remove the bark or create hollows in the wood, a sharp thin blade is required.
3. Often, during work, you have to knock on the butt in order to free the cleaver from the knotty log or evenly chop off the excess part of the tree. Therefore, when buying a tool, you should pay attention to whether the manufacturer allows impact on the butt.
4. Rto kill. The handle makes it easy to use. The classic option is to use natural wood. However, due attention is not always paid to the draft in production. After a short use, the handle begins to wobble, which makes using the tool dangerous. But ax handles made of artificial materials do not swell when moistened and do not dry out after drying. But not all of them are able to withstand shock loads.
5. Withoutdanger. So that the ax does not pose a danger to humans during storage or movement, you should take care of a protective cover. It is convenient to hang the tool if there is a special hole on the handle.

Our review includes 12 of the best axes. With the help of experts and users, it was possible to identify winners in several categories.

Rating of the best axes

Nomination	a place	Name of product	price
The best axes for chopping wood (cleavers)	1		2 790 ₽
	2		1 359 ₽
	3		2 660 ₽
The best universal ax	1		2 399 ₽
	2		3 310 ₽
The best carpenter's axes	1		2 494 ₽
	2		429 ₽
	3		749 ₽
The best travel ax	1		2 110 ₽
	2		1 650 ₽
	3		758 ₽
best hammer ax	1		1 749 ₽

The best axes for chopping wood (cleavers)

Only special axes called cleavers can split a thick log with one blow. Due to the massive working part with a thick blade, the blow leads to cracking of the wood along the fibers. The most effective experts recognized the following models.

The most convenient ax for chopping firewood, according to experts, was the Fiskars X11-S 440 mm model. The tool is of high quality workmanship, while it is sold in Russia at an affordable price. With the help of a cleaver, it is possible to perform various types of work, from harvesting firewood to construction. The manufacturer made a pronounced butt, which makes it possible to use the back side as a hammer. Teflon coating is used to protect the steel blade.

The ax takes first place in the ranking for its compact size and light weight (1.13 kg), ergonomic ax with a shock-absorbing coating. The handle is made of a special material FiberComp, which is not afraid of moisture and is resistant to mechanical damage.

Advantages

• universality;
• does not get stuck in logs;
• easily splits logs up to 20 cm in diameter;
• durable handle.

disadvantages

• not detected.

At the lowest price, the Matrix 21820 cleaver is sold on the domestic market. A well-known German manufacturer managed to reduce the cost of production by locating a production site in China. The ax is made of steel 65G, which after heat treatment acquires high hardness (50 HRc). Even logs with branches can be split thanks to the back part, made in the form of an anvil. With the help of a hammer, you can free the stuck ax and cut the log. For ease of use, the handle is made of fiberglass, it absorbs upon impact. In addition, the material does not swell and does not dry out.

Advantages

• low price;
• quality manufacturing;
• comfortable handle;
• moderate angle.

disadvantages

• big weight;
• tangible recoil in the hands upon impact.

The GARDENA 1600S splitter will help you quickly deal with a whole mountain of firewood. The geometry of the blade is specially selected for splitting medium-sized logs. The tool is made in the Czech Republic, so the price is slightly higher than the offer of competitors. But the manufacturer treated the ax blade with a special compound to reduce friction. The total mass of the cleaver is 1.6 kg, which, with a length of 600 mm, becomes a serious force.

It was possible to facilitate the tool due to the carbon fiber handle. It is not afraid of moisture and does not dry out. However, the material is destroyed by strong blows of a sledgehammer on the butt of a stuck ax. Therefore, you will have to work according to the blow-extraction-strike scheme. Over time, adhering resin accumulates on the blade, which worsens the splitting of firewood. Cleaning is best done with organic solvents.

Advantages

• comfortable grip;
• minimal blade friction;
• quality manufacturing.

disadvantages

• high price;
• the handle is afraid of shock loads.

The best universal ax

An ax should be at hand on the farm, which can chop wood and butcher an animal carcass with equal success. With its help, it is possible to monitor the garden, and, if necessary, drive stakes into the ground. Such a range of tasks can be performed by the following products.

A wide range of woodworking can be performed by the Fiskars X10-S universal axe. These are joinery and carpentry, chopping firewood, cutting bushes and small trees. The high strength of the blade is provided by hardened steel. To protect the blade from corrosion, the manufacturer used an anti-friction coating. With a total length of 440 mm, the tool weighs 0.98 kg. The handle is made of a two-component material that does not absorb moisture and does not dry out. Safe transportation of the ax is ensured by a plastic case.

The model deservedly becomes the winner of the rating, its excellent working qualities are confirmed by consumer reviews. The ax is comfortable, does not slip in the hands, successfully combines length and weight. But to knock with a hammer on back side Not recommended.

Advantages

• comfortable handle;
• light weight;
• protective case;
• quality manufacturing.

disadvantages

• you can not knock with the butt of an ax.

The American Cold Steel Trail Boss Ax 660 mm is already considered a living legend. A well-known company at one time made a real revolution in the world of chopping tools. For the manufacture of a masterpiece, modern materials with a large margin of safety are used. The hardness of the steel blade with a length of 114 mm is 54-56 HRc, which allows you to work with an ax for a long time without sharpening. The handle is made from natural walnut. With an ax you can not only chop branches and logs, you can throw it into logs, butcher animal carcasses, hammer nails with a butt. With a total length of 660 mm, the tool weighs 1.115 kg.

Advantages

• durable modern materials;
• high blade hardness;
• comfortable handle without cracks.

disadvantages

• high price.

The best carpenter's axes

In the work of a carpenter there is always work for an axe. The tool should be not only exceptionally sharp, but also as convenient as possible. Several models have these properties.

One of the best carpentry axes on the domestic market is the Husqvarna 5769264-01 model. The Swedish tool does not need special advertising, even the high price does not stop woodworking professionals. It can be used not only in the professional activities of carpenters and joiners, but also for the preparation of firewood. The ax has a short length (375 mm), an ergonomic wooden handle has a hole for hanging the tool. Experts especially note the secure fit of the ax handle. Even after 2-3 years of daily use, no backlash or displacement is formed. The secret of immobility lies in two wedges (wooden and steel).

Advantages

• sharp blade;
• optimal length and weight;
• ergonomic handle;
• Leather Case.

disadvantages

• high price.

The Izhevsk enterprise boasts a rich history in the field of hand tool manufacturing. The IZHSTAL 030904-120 ax is devoid of many of the shortcomings characteristic of budget products. Both experts and users express their satisfaction with the quality of the Russian instrument. The wooden ax handle fits comfortably in the hands and does not slip during operation. The ax itself is made of hardened steel, the blade is sharpened specifically for woodworking. If necessary, you can chop wood or cut tree branches. The fastening of the handle to the ax turned out to be reliable.

The tool deserves the second line of our rating, losing to the winner in weight (1.2 kg). Users note slight flaws in the processing of the handle, in some models there are gaps between the handle and the ax.

Advantages

• affordable price;
• sharp sharpening;
• strength and durability;
• comfortable handle.

disadvantages

• marriage is often found.

Experts put the German-Chinese ax MATRIX 21649 in third place in the ranking. strengths tool should include a forged steel base made of grade 60G. After hardening, the manufacturer managed to achieve high strength (50 HRc) of both the blade and the butt. The handle is made of fiberglass, rubber inserts reduce the impact on the hands. The hatchet retains its original shape, both when wet and when dried. The model weighs 1.392 kg, in this parameter it is inferior to the leaders of the rating. The ax can be hung thanks to a special hole on the handle.

Along with the low price and comfortable handle, users have found some disadvantages. First, the blade has too much cutting angle. The second disadvantage of the tool is the unreliable fixation of the handle.

Advantages

• ergonomic rubberized handle;
• acceptable price;
• good hardening.

disadvantages

• poor sharpening of the blade;
• unreliable draft of the ax handle.

The best travel ax

Camping is not complete without a fire, and for convenience, a small table and simple benches are often made. A compact and lightweight hatchet will become a reliable assistant for a tourist or a fisherman. Experts recommend several models for outdoor enthusiasts.

The ax of the universal type Fiskars X5-XXS is a great helper for outdoor enthusiasts. Thanks to the short handle (23 cm) and light weight (0.55 kg), the tool is easy to transport. You can carry an ax not only in a backpack, but also on a waist belt. Experts gave the product the first place in the rating for a sharp blade made of durable and hard steel. The fiberglass handle has a shock-absorbing coating, so even when wet it does not slip in your hand. Users note the convenient shape of the ax handle, which ensures a secure grip.

For safe movement of the ax there is a protective cover with a latch. The blade is securely connected to the ax handle, forming a monolithic structure. Users note a sharp blade that easily copes with branches or small logs.

Advantages

• quality manufacturing;
• ease of use;
• good sharpening of the blade;
• reliable cover.

disadvantages

• not detected.

Many gardeners are well acquainted with the tool of the German company Gardena. The GARDENA 900B 340mm Camping Ax is suitable not only for outdoor activities, but also for gardening. Sharp blade protected from corrosion special coating It helps to reduce friction. The ergonomic handle has an elastic soft insert, it not only softens the impact energy, but also prevents the tool from slipping out of the hands. The strength of the ax handle is provided reinforced layer fiberglass. Experts drew attention to the strong butt, it turns an ordinary ax into a small sledgehammer. High quality The product is backed by a 10 year warranty.

Users appreciated the comfortable handle, sharp blade, beautiful appearance. The main disadvantage of the ax is the high price.

Advantages

• light and comfortable;
• protective case;
• cuts well;
• reinforced hatchet.

disadvantages

• high price.

Especially for field conditions, the hatchet Zubr 20646-05 was developed. With a length of 300 mm, the tool weighs 0.5 kg, and the protective case reliably hides the sharp blade during transport. The ax allows you to quickly and efficiently cut brushwood or small logs. The basis of the model was durable hardened steel 65G, it is covered with a layer of Teflon to protect against corrosion. In addition, the coating gives the surface smoothness, so the blade does not get stuck in the wood. A fiberglass handle has been used to lighten the camping axe. A special soft insert reduces the load on the hand when cutting, and also contributes to a secure grip.

Experts put the hatchet in third place because of the unreliable handle. This shortcoming is mentioned in the reviews by domestic consumers.

Advantages

• low price;
• compactness and lightness;
• smooth blade.

disadvantages

• unreliable handle.

best hammer ax

Some builders appreciate the versatility in the ax. For example, installers have to trim boards with an ax, knock down shields, remove bent nails. Such tasks can be handled by one effective hammer-axe.

Many home crafters as well as builders need to have a multi-tool handy. Hammer ax Bahco 494-600 is an excellent combination of impact and chopping products. In addition, nails can be removed quickly and easily with the tool. A set of these qualities will suit both a plasterer, a roofer, and an installer. Experts pay attention to a durable steel handle with a rubber pad. It is securely connected to the working part, which consists of an ax blade with a nail puller and a square butt.

Advantages

• wide scope of application;
• strength and durability;
• reliable and comfortable handle;
• hardened steel of the working part.

disadvantages

• no hanging hole.

Attention! This rating is subjective, is not an advertisement and does not serve as a guide to purchase. Before buying, you need to consult with a specialist.

The hunting ax has remained a constant companion of man for centuries. With the development of tourism, special tourist or hiking axes appeared, but the task of this tool remained the same.

A camping ax will be needed for various purposes in any outing into nature, even if you do not plan to build a hut in the forest or a ship on the lake. Even if someone prudently took a saw into the forest, one still cannot do without an ax. We list for what purposes an ax may be needed:

• Cut out stakes for setting up a tent. Even a small tourist hatchet will cope with this. Severe hunters can make pegs their own hunting knife, but for a tourist, this procedure can become very traumatic;
• Drive in the newly made pegs. Here, a hunting cleaver is unlikely to help, although it is not a problem for a leukku to hammer a peg;
• For cutting branches, a tourist ax is ideal;
• Cut down different poles;
• Arrange a hut or chop spruce paws for a bed;
• With a hunting ax, you can easily chop the carcass of an animal (a small tourist ax is difficult, but it will also cope with this task).

Indeed, an ax is not only a multifunctional tool, but also a very effective weapon. There is a known case during the Second World War, when one fighter of the Red Army dispersed a detachment of Germans of 50 people, and he killed about half using the most ordinary ax. At times ancient Russia the ax was the only weapon and tool of the peasant, with which he did not part. With an ax, he could cut down a hut, and protect his family, and go into robbers.

Hunting or tourist, which is better?

There are often disputes about which ax is better to take into the forest: hunting or tourist? Many do not know that there is no clear division of axes into such categories. An ax that can be used to build a hunting shed or ambush is not suitable for skinning. If sharpened to razor sharp, chopping logs with them means immediately ruining the sharpening. If we focus specifically on functionality, then the ax for the hunter should cut the carcass and butcher the meat, and the ax of the tourist should be ideal for chopping a tree. It should be noted that for an experienced hunter or tourist, the ax is always perfectly sharpened and differs only in the choice of the angle of sharpening.

If the hunter plans to carve carcasses and skin on each hunt with an ax, then it needs to be sharpened to a razor sharpness, and the blade should be wide. If you like to go camping for a week without taking a tent with you, then you will need a massive ax with a long handle and quite heavy.

For an average tourist or hunter, you need a universal ax, weighing 600-800 grams, with an ax handle of about 70-80 centimeters. The less time you plan to spend hiking, the lighter and shorter the ax can be.

Types of axes

The main part of the ax is its blade. It must be of high quality steel, which must be properly hardened. If the hardening technology is not followed, the blade will be either brittle or soft. You won't get much with this axe.

When choosing an ax, you need to pay close attention to the quality of the steel. This is especially true when buying a Chinese or domestic ax. In the case of a Chinese product, you should not count on high-quality steel at all, and when buying a domestic ax, you should choose among several copies. Check the ax blades for sound. You need to click your fingernail on the blade, and listen to the sound. If it is sonorous and ringing, then the ax can be taken. With a quiet and deaf sound, you should immediately put such an ax aside.

The choice of the weight of the ax must be made on an individual basis. For small jobs, the weight may not exceed 800 grams. Carpenter's axes weigh up to 1500 grams. Specific - up to 3500 grams.

Axes are:

• Hiking or tourist;
• hunting;
• Carpentry;
• Construction;
• Cleavers;
• Myasnitsky.

A real hunting ax is light, with a notch on the cutting part. Its weight does not exceed 800 grams, since the hunter's equipment should not be heavy. The blade of this ax should easily cut meat and cut carcasses. In general, the hunting ax is very similar to the Russian battle ax of the 11th-13th centuries.

A tourist ax has a short, most often rubber handle and can be all-metal.

The ax handle can be made of wood or impact-resistant plastic. The plastic handle does not dry out, but is much more expensive. If such a handle breaks in the forest, it will not be possible to replace the handle on the spot. Wooden handles are devoid of this drawback, and with the help of a knife you can easily cut a new ax handle (naturally, upon arrival home, it will need to be replaced with dried wood).

Ax sharpening

The most important condition for the quality work of the ax is correct sharpening. Many "specialists" recommend sharpening the ax at an angle of 20 degrees, achieving razor sharpness. This is fundamentally the wrong approach! The blade, hitting a strong knot, can get a chip, and if you accidentally get a nail, then the blade will definitely be damaged. There are no knives or axes that can shave the hair on the forearm while cutting nails. The chisel cuts metal not due to high-quality steel, but because of the large sharpening angle.

Ideally, the sharpening of the ax should be oval. An ax sharpened in this way will remain sharp for a long time. They can cut both wood and meat. Usually the ax is sharpened on an electric sharpener, but in field conditions A coarse whetstone will work too.

The best handle for a tourist ax

The ideal handle for an ax is made of birch. The tree must be dried (preferably the lower part of the trunk). The birch handle is light and durable. With proper maintenance, it will last at least five years.

The handle should be straight in shape, a bend or thickening is desirable at the end, for better fixation of the ax in the hand. Many choose beautiful lacquered ax handles, which is highly undesirable. Such a handle will easily slip out of your hands and fly in an unknown direction.

The length of the handle must be at least 70 centimeters. Most tourist axes are equipped with short axes, which makes them unsuitable for use in the forest.

Planting an ax on an ax handle occurs according to the following scheme. To begin with, it is desirable to strengthen the ax in the lower part. Many axes from the times of the USSR had a beard that adjoined the ax handle. You can place an iron plate between the ax and the handle, then covering it with leather.

How to properly plant an ax on an ax handle

There are many secrets associated with mounting axes on ax handles. Many wedge the ax with an iron wedge, and then wonder why the ax begins to loosen. The wedge must be of hard wood.

In order to avoid deformation of the ax handle associated with a change in humidity, the ax should be mounted on a perfectly dried ax handle. Having bought it in a store, it is better to throw it in a heating radiator for the whole winter, and plant it in the spring.

For a denser “axe-handle” bond, the place where the ax will be planted should be smeared epoxy resin and wrap a piece of leather there (some people use several layers of gauze soaked in epoxy instead of leather). Before driving in a wedge, it must also be thoroughly lubricated with epoxy.

The most reliable is the wedging of an ax using three or five wedges. In the case of using three wedges, one of them is driven in the center, to the full width, and the other two are driven in from above and below it. It is better to lubricate the wedges with epoxy before driving in.

The method of using five wedges is of two types:

• In the first case, one longitudinal incision is made for the entire length and two transverse, at an equal distance from each other. This method will allow you to perfectly fix the ax on the handle, the main thing is not to forget about the epoxy;
• Very rarely there is a five-wedge mounting option, when two vertical wedges are made and three small horizontal ones between them. At the same time, two large wedges are turned at an angle of 90 degrees to the ax handle.

The best way is the variant with five wedges. There is one more little secret. After the wedges are in place, you can pour the ax on top with epoxy. It will fill all the voids and give solidity to the connection.

The best manufacturers of tourist axes

The best serial axes, which have proven themselves well in work, are manufactured by Fiskars. Her axes are quite expensive, but their model range is quite wide and everyone can choose a suitable ax by weight.

Good axes are made by MORA. True, this manufacturer does not differ in a variety of models.

I relate to the ax in the campaign without aspiration and worship, characteristic of individual tourists, who have turned into peculiar admirers of this object and elevated it to a cult. For me, this is just a working tool, an element of the necessary equipment 🙂

In this article, we will focus on choosing axes for a hike, and not for home. Personally, since I lived on my land in a rural house for many years, I was forced to use an ax almost daily - during construction, for preparing firewood, for gardening, for chopping carcasses, and the like, familiar to a villager. IN total I had about a dozen different axes and one large heavy cleaver, that is, the tool was distributed strictly for its intended purpose, and half of it simply passed to me from the previous owners. From my point of view, not all axes that are convenient for working at home are suitable for hiking in the forest and vice versa.

In the article I will try to highlight the basic principles that it is desirable to match the marching ax. As usual, I'm not going to convince anyone of anything, I just hope that my opinion will help those who choose.

The main tasks of the camping ax are:

• preparation of firewood at the camp, usually in the form of cutting not thick sushi, branches, driftwood, "plucking" stumps and splitting small straight-grained chocks near winter quarters in a small amount;
• guidance of crossings over water obstacles;
• minor work at the bivouac - cutting poles, pegs

Works on the construction of long-term shelters, processing of timber and lumber, logging, logging for a long period, fine carpentry and joinery are excluded. Such work is simply not needed. That is, for the construction of winter huts, dugouts, and the preparation of firewood for the winter, it is necessary to have a more specialized tool - things will go much faster and safer.

The requirements for a camping ax can be expressed in terms of the shape of the ax, its weight, the material of the ax handle, and the quality of workmanship.

The mass of the ax is usually indicated without the ax handle, since initially for an ax with a wooden handle, the ax handle was made of the length necessary for specific conditions of use, and at the same time the shape.

For a hike, the best weight is an ax weighing 800-1000 grams (without an ax handle, of course). Of the now popular Fiskars axes, these are the X10 and X11 models. From domestic axes, this category includes Soviet and Russian axes standard according to GOST, weighing 0.8 and 1 kg, as well as numerous axes made according to TU by modern manufacturers.

Heavier axes are overweight, lighter ones are extremely low productivity work.

Small Fiskars X5 and Husqavarna 5026402-01 are very convenient for small jobs around the house and in construction, for example, for making the same dowels for connecting crowns, but on a hike they are completely unsuitable for cutting chocks and felling trees for crossings.

It takes small Fiskars to cut down a tree with a diameter of 30 cm, provided that it is well sharpened, 40 ... 80 minutes, depending on the type of wood and subject to continuous work by two participants with a periodic change of each other. With an ax of the same company but with twice the mass, this work takes 10-15 minutes by one participant.

At the same time, a small ax is much more practical than a machete, which for some reason has recently become popular with many tourists and is completely unsuitable for a full-fledged replacement of an ax in taiga conditions.

Now let's touch on the shape of the axe. Soviet GOST 18578-89 implies the following types of axes:

According to GOST, type A with a rounded blade is designed for cutting, splitting and hewing of wood in the production of carpentry; type B with a straight blade is designed for cutting, hewing and rough processing of wood in the production of joinery and carpentry.

In the guest, everything is written according to its intended purpose and for hiking, if you choose from the "standard" axes, type A is preferable.

There is a controversial point about the protruding butt of the blade. How convenient or inconvenient is it? This is convenient for chopping firewood with an ax with a narrow ax handle, as it increases its productivity, and also significantly increases labor productivity when sanding and trimming wood. This reduces the convenience of thin and precise work with wood. As for the felling of trees, the issue becomes controversial. On the one hand, a large blade area increases productivity, on the other hand, reduces accuracy.

Finnish and similar axes are implemented slightly according to a different principle; in front of them, the blade does not go beyond the butt.

At the same time, the blade itself is made thicker, i.e., it has a slightly different cut angle, cheeks. Because of this, an ax with a shorter blade has a slightly larger mass and gives "performance" due to the weight and accuracy of striking.

Since in tourism, in principle, there is no need to fell large trees - 30-40 cm is usually the ceiling, and you have to cut chocks infrequently and not thick, then if you really want (this is not mandatory), you can take an ordinary Soviet ax and a little cut it.

I mentioned the word "Soviet" not by chance - as a rule, these were excellent axes that could please their owners for a long time. They were released so a large number of that can still be found. Modern Russian axes, including those that are already being produced in such a form as in the photo (for example, such are made by Trud Vacha OJSC) have a very unstable workmanship. As a rule, in addition to a frankly badly planted ax handle, these axes are either too soft and crumple with an edge on hardwood, or too overheated and crumble. In addition, there may be poor-quality sharpening, which is difficult to fine-tune with your paws.

Such unstable quality led to the popularity of the same Fiskars and even more expensive Husqavarnas. Both companies provide quality axes that are beautifully made and comfortable. At the same time, Fiskars axes have an ax handle made of glass fiber reinforced polyamide, which immediately eliminates the looseness of the ax on the ax handle, the need for periodic repairs and maintenance, and also provides somewhat greater safety during work.

With all this, the Fiskars ax handle is not ideal and has the following disadvantages - absolute unrepairability, slippery surface in winter in mittens and in summer due to sweat, inability to dampen vibration from impact.

The issue of vibration is very important when splitting chocks in large volumes. I pricked with Fiskars about 15 cubes of larch and birch every winter and after such volumes I had pain in my paws, caused precisely by the inability of the handle to dampen the force of impact. In the end, after the second winter, I had to change it to a tool from another company.

In a campaign, such volumes are not even close and the issue of recoil is not so acute there that Fiskars simply does not matter.

I wrapped the handle with adhesive tape to make it less slippery and more grip.

When hiking, I also always use a lanyard on Fiskars for additional fixation and insurance. There is a hole for a lanyard on axes, it is useful to do this on wooden ax handles.

The non-repairability of the ax handle is a disadvantage due to its extreme reliability. I saw broken Fiskars ax handles, but this happened due to improper operation - usually a strong blow in winter to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ax handle next to the butt. This happens either if you missed the chock, or when hitting from above with the butt of another ax, you hit not in the butt of Fiskars, but on its ax handle. In all these cases, the ax handle may break and you will have to throw away a very expensive ax. This will not happen with wooden axes.

In fairness, I can say that I exploited my Fiskars very hard and a lot, but they still serve me for more than ten years.

The wooden ax handle of domestic axes must be made of birch and must be thoroughly dried. These are sold in large construction stores and cost about 70-120 rubles - before buying, I advise you to measure in size to your ax so that it does not turn out to be smaller than necessary. You can make an ax on your own, but in a city apartment it’s too time-consuming. In the village, you usually pick up a suitable chock in advance, cut billets out of it with a chainsaw, carefully dry them and store them in a dry, dark place, taking them out if necessary to make an ax handle.

For tourist axes, just like for home axes, I prefer ordinary straight ax handles or with a slight downward slope, as shown in the GOST pictures. There are hunting options in which the ax handle goes down at an even sharper angle. It is more convenient to clean paths and paths with such an ax, since you often have to cut branches on high level from the ground - within human height. It is less convenient for them to chop wood and cut wood at a low level than ordinary ones, so such axes are best attributed to specific tools.

According to GOST, an ax can be fixed on an ax handle with a metal or wooden wedge. According to Feng Shui, it is believed that a metal wedge serves to compensate for some different thermal expansions of wood and metal, but in practice, I personally did not notice the need for anything like that. I prefer fixing with wooden wedges. GOST, by the way, indicates that if they are used, they must be put on glue.

Under wooden wedges, before planting the ax in the ax handle, it is better to make appropriate cuts ending with holes so that they do not later turn into cracks.

First, a vertical wedge is driven in, then a horizontal one. After the glue hardens, the protruding parts of the wedges are sawn off.

Caring for the torus consists primarily in monitoring the condition of the ax handle and fixing the ax on it, since these are the most traumatic moments. The hatchet can never be repaired, only replaced. In case of weak fixation, it is necessary to find out the real reason. If the ax becomes loose and you continue to use it in this form, then it will quickly become loose even more and then the ax handle will have to be changed. With small backlashes, the problem can be solved with wedges, or knock out the existing one, or insert a new one.

To various alternative ways fastening an ax to an ax handle, I usually have a negative attitude due to the laboriousness of the proposed schemes and the decrease in the strength of an ax or ax handle.

The ax itself after the trip must be cleaned of rust with sandpaper, manually or with a machine, and also sharpened after each trip. It is not superfluous to take a sharpener with you on a hike. Best Option is a small diamond file, you can also buy good diamond sharpeners of a similar type in stores. They are easy to straighten and sharpen any cutting edge, even a knife, even an ax.

A good ax with normal handling and care will last a long time, perhaps even remain for our children. Is it worth investing in an expensive foreign product? To be honest, in many cases, much cheaper options are enough. The ax is indispensable for any hiking in the forest zone, being a necessary piece of equipment. Buying expensive axes gives you ready product, which after purchase can be put in a closet and taken out before going on a trip. You can completely spend several times less, put your paws and get a completely functional product - it depends more on financial capabilities. At the same time, I see no point in building branded axes into a cult - of course, these are excellent products for their tasks, but they are offered at very high prices, which not everyone can afford. To a large extent, this price is a product of marketing and does not deprive them of their shortcomings and does not endow them with outstanding qualities.

Despite the venerable age of such a tool as an ax that arose at the dawn of civilization, in terms of its demand, it still remains out of competition as an indispensable assistant in the most various works. Without an ax, it is impossible to go out into nature, hike, expedition. This tool is a traditional construction tool. An ax is needed both in the kitchen and in the meat rows, but you never know where else.

Almost everyone has a tourist ax. How to choose it correctly? Its main purpose is cutting. They cut wood, ice, stone, meat, etc. What should be the features of an ax to make it convenient to chop?

Ax blade size

There are axes on the market that have wide, medium or narrow blades. Wide (two or three palms wide) are necessary for cutting a surface that has a large area. The wide blade perfectly distributes the force over a large area, which the muscular strength of a person imparts to the ax. But such an ax, in addition to a wide blade, should have a long handle and be heavy. Then they can excellently chop large logs, cut down strong thick trees, chop meat.

An ax with an average blade usually weighs less, because the muscle force is distributed over a smaller surface area, which means that the force of impact increases. These axes are needed for chopping wood, chopping logs, sharpening stakes, etc.

The ax, which has a small blade, is not intended for a serious blow, but for more “jewelry” work: stumps of small knots, splitting wood chips, sharpening thin pegs. Such axes will completely replace the hammer.

One of the modifications is the blade, which has a notch in the lower part. Such a change in the shape of the blade facilitates the work, because the center of gravity of the ax shifts, and its weight decreases. However, when chopping logs, you cannot turn such an ax to the side (and this is usually done to split a large log), the strength of the ax also decreases, since stress increases in the thinnest part of the blade.

Ax blade shape

There are axes with rounded and straight blades. An ax with a straight blade is better at splitting one or another object. An ax with a rounded blade is usually longer and in this case, in addition to the chopping blow, there is also a cutting component of the blade.

Ax weight

The heavier the ax, the stronger the blow will be. A heavy ax can cut through a log with a few hits. But it is not always convenient to transport a very heavy tool, and only an exceptionally strong person is able to use it. A light ax is convenient to carry, but much less convenient to cut. To cut a log, a light ax requires up to a hundred blows. Therefore, you need to look golden mean: the optimal weight of an ax for hiking is 0.8-1 kg.

Blade sharpening

The sharper the ax blade is, the deeper the ax penetrates into the object upon impact. However, a sharp blade is less durable and dulls faster. For chopping logs or chopping small trees, the sharpening angle of a heavy ax is recommended to be 35-40 °, and for chopping logs, large trees 25-30°. The first case is also called blunt sharpening (the angle at which the blade is sharpened is large), the second is called sharp sharpening. It is not necessary to sharpen the cleaver, because this is a wedge not for cutting, but for splitting logs.

Experts advise using floating sharpness. This advice applies to axes with an arcuate blade, which needs to be sharpened at a sharper angle in the center than at the edges. Such sharpening gives the tool excellent cutting qualities, however, it eliminates the fragility of the blade if the blow is carried out by the edge of the blade (there is a larger sharpening angle, more blunt sharpening).

ax

It is impossible to make a big swing with a short ax handle in order to perform a serious blow. Of course, you can put your hand away and, using your hand as an additional leverage, make a blow. But with such a blow, all the return from it will gather in the elbow area, which means that after two or three blows, your hand will simply become numb. An ax handle that is too long will take all the impact from the impact with the narrowest part: the longer the ax handle, the more likely it is to break faster. Therefore, you need to look for a middle ground: the length of the ax handle is just right, if the width of the ax (the place that the ax is planted on the ax handle) fits 6-7 times in the ax handle.

What material to choose an ax? Experts are sure that birch wood is the most optimal choice. Birch is a dense, heavy wood that is tough enough to absorb impact and tough enough to resist splitting. When choosing an ax handle, inspect it carefully, because any crack or trace from a knot will lead to the fact that your ax will crack sooner or later. Wood fibers should go along the handle. For convenience, the ax handle has a thickening in one part to put the ax on, and in the other part - a small protrusion so that your palm does not slip off. Due to the bend of the ax handle, the impact force increases, but at the same time, the bend is the most vulnerable zone in case of a fracture of the ax handle.

Ax head

As a rule, a wedge-shaped nozzle is used: the ax handle inside the ax is bursting with a wedge. Iron wedges are not suitable, they will fall out very quickly. It is best to use wooden ones. The wedge is cut out of wood chips. It is recommended to take chips from the same tree that was used to make the ax handle. Chips are turned so that the narrowing from the heel to the point goes smoothly. Chips are chosen so long that it does not exceed the width of the ax. The heel of the wood chips is optimally equal to half the thickness of the ax handle, and the tip of the wedge should be in the range from 3 to 5 millimeters. After the ax is planted, the wedge is slowly driven in with gentle blows (so the heel does not split). The end of the wedge must be sawn off closer to the ax handle.

Sometimes, instead of a wedge, self-tapping screws, tent pegs, thick short nails are driven in, and the entire structure is wrapped with electrical tape. Any metal part will weaken the strength of the ax handle in one more of its weak spots - directly under the axe. Metal elements can be used only in the most exceptional cases.

If the wedge is inserted thick and strong, and the ax jumps off, then you planted the ax on the wrong side.

In order to prevent the ax from slipping, it is soaked in field conditions so that the wood swells. It is necessary to put the ax into the water in such a way that most of the ax handle is under the water. This is a long but necessary process. You can speed it up: cook the ax in a large pot (this will take no more than half an hour). After that, the ax handle should be tightly tied with twine directly under the ax in several layers. Tourists have verified that after such manipulations with such an ax you can work longer.