Do-it-yourself homemade lathe for wood with your own hands. Wood lathe with copier: prices and specifications

In the house and in the country there are a large number of works that require wood processing. To complete the task, you will need a lathe. Finished production equipment is an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen prefer to make equipment on their own from improvised means. Options for creating different lathes are described in the article.

The feasibility of making a wood lathe with your own hands

Automated equipment increases the efficiency of woodworking, which is especially important when organizing production process or when performing household tasks. Modern models allow processing not only wooden products, and a number of soft metals (aluminum, bronze and copper). From the range of equipment, you can choose any product - professional machines with wide functionality or equipment for home use.

The only downside to buying lathe- its cost. To save the budget, there are three options for solving the problem: purchasing an analogue of Chinese production, buying old Soviet equipment and its subsequent repair, or making a machine with your own hands.

If the equipment is intended for domestic use and honing carpentry as part of a hobby, then a do-it-yourself homemade wood lathe is a great alternative to expensive equipment. Of course, such a model will not provide for various “gadgets” of factory equipment, but its functions will be enough to create small handicrafts from soft wood.

Structural elements of a lathe

Regardless of the model, the main components of the woodworking lathe remain unchanged.

The bed is the basis of the design. The platform is made of metal or several connected beams. More preferably a metal base to increase the stability of the equipment.
Cross beam U-shaped.
An electric motor that sets the rotation of the workpiece. Typically, factory models are equipped with a three-phase electric drive, which requires an appropriate power supply line to operate. The maximum rotational speed of the electric motor is 1500 rpm. AT homemade products often used single-phase motors with a power of 200-400 watts.
Scroll chuck.
Support for tailstock.
rotating element.
Stop for placing a tool or workpiece.
Support for a handyman.
Guide beam.
Rack for tailstock.
Clips.
Metal plates under the emphasis of nodal connections.
Cross guide.
Screws for fixing.
Base axle.

The main executive parts of the lathe are the rear and front headstocks. A wooden blank is installed between the working elements. Through the headstock, the rotation is transmitted from the electric engine to the product. The tailstock, in fact, only holds the product, remaining static. The movement of the headstock occurs by means of a manual drive.

The functionality of the lathe will be somewhat diversified by equipping the equipment with additional devices:

baluster - a center support supporting workpieces of great length; this structural element prevents sagging of the workpiece;
trident - a chuck with teeth replaces a regular spindle if there are problems with scrolling the product during turning;
copier - for the manufacture of several parts of the same type; the element directs the cutter along the required path, ensuring the identity of the dimensions / configuration of the products.

How to make a lathe for wood with your own hands

Standard equipment dimensions

A photo. Do-it-yourself wood lathe: drawing.

Typical Dimensions homemade machine are:

length - 80 cm;
width - 40 cm;
height - 35 cm.

Equipment with such dimensions will cope with woodworking of blanks up to 20 cm in length and up to 25 cm in diameter. These parameters are specified without the use of centering by means of the tailstock. The part is fixed through a special faceplate. If a tailstock is used, then the length of the workpiece increases to 40 cm.

Selection of materials and preparation of tools

When choosing materials for creating turning equipment, you will need the following materials:

An old electric grinder for sharpening two stones. The tool will act as a headstock. The unit is already equipped with four metal washers. Two of them are used to fix interchangeable discs of different diameters, the replacement of which leads to an acceleration / deceleration of the rotation speed. To fix the blank, a special faceplate is installed on the other side.
Electric drill parts fit the role of the tailstock.
Metal profile (channel) for the manufacture of a lathe bed for wood by hand.
Pulleys of different diameters rotate at a speed of 800-3000 rpm.
For the layout of the structure will be useful:
- metal corner;
- pipes of different diameters;
- steel strips 2 cm and 4 cm wide;
- fasteners;
- drive belt.

Of the tools in the work will be involved:

electric drill;
files;
Bulgarian;
welding machine and electrodes.

Manufacturing of elements and assembly of the machine

The sequence of work can be divided into several stages:

Lathe from the engine from the washing machine

Machine manufacturing procedure:

Prepare the basis for the placement of all structural elements. Connect the beams with crossbars and additionally fix them on top with two corners.
Engine from washing machine attach to the headstock.
The basis of the tailstock is a rotating center attached to the support.
Make an emphasis under the rear beam from a corner. String the clip onto the support axle and weld the structural element to the guide beams - the basis of the machine. The emphasis and the tailstock are movable mechanisms.
To fix the moving elements, preliminary holes are prepared.
First, the prepared parts are fastened by spot welding, and then they are finally connected by welding seams.

DIY mini wood lathe

To build a small wood lathe with your own hands, the dimensions of which do not exceed 20-30 cm, will come from a motor and a power supply from a Soviet radio. The mini-turner will cope with the processing of various little things made of wood (handles, key chains, etc.).

Assembly algorithm:

From sheet metal(1-2 mm) prepare a box for the engine. Give the plate a U-shape and prepare a hole for the shaft.
From a wooden beam (2-3 cm in thickness), make a supporting frame, stops for a compact engine and a tailstock.
Cut wooden squares and put them in a pile. For fixing, you can use ordinary PVA glue.
Fix the resulting "tower" with four self-tapping screws.
Substitute a straight metal bar to the engine pulley and mark the location of the holder (self-tapping screw).
A faceplate is installed as a mating holder on the motor side.

The mini lathe is easy to assemble. Its compact dimensions are about 22 cm. Of course, such a technique is not suitable for performing serious tasks, but it is quite suitable for processing small parts made of wood, tin and aluminum.

Making a lathe and copying machine

The finished lathe can additionally be equipped with a copier, which is useful for forming the same type of thread and creating the same parts.

Suitable for copier base manual frezer. The part is laid on plywood with a thickness of 1.2 cm with an area of 20 * 50 cm. Next, holes are made for fasteners and support small bars are mounted for installing the cutter. Place the cutter between the clamps and secure with self-tapping screws.

A bar is installed on the lathe - in the future, templates are attached to it. The bar size is 70*30 mm. The element is fixed with self-tapping screws to the vertical supports, and the stands themselves - to the base of the machine.

If there is no need to use a copier, then the beam is dismantled, and the equipment is used for simple turning of parts.

A do-it-yourself wood lathe has some disadvantages:

the working area with the milling cutter will have to be moved manually - during the processing, the moving part may jam;
the technique is suitable for copying simple elements;
to increase the versatility of the design, it is better to replace the cutter with a circular saw.

Features of manufacturing a turning and milling machine for wood with your own hands

Design turning and milling equipment includes the following main components:

Bed. To create are taken wooden bars from which the lattice structure is made. The headstock is fixed motionless. The location of the rear can be changed due to the movement of the installation panel along the ribs of the metal ribs of the frame.
Electric motor and rotation transmission system. To speed up work, a small disk is mounted on the motor shaft, and on the contrary, on the front beam shaft big size. Connecting parts with a belt.
Manual cutter. It is mounted at the top of the frame on a platform that moves relative to the workpiece along the guides.

DIY wood lathe: video

Our article is devoted to nostalgia for school workshops of labor training. Many people know how to carry out turning work on wood, but not everyone can afford to buy and maintain equipment for this. Is it possible to assemble a machine with your own hands that meets the technology and safety requirements - let's figure it out together.

What does GOST say

The good news is that you don't have to reinvent the wheel. The entire assembly process and drawings of each machine module are described in TU3872-477-02077099-2002, and although this document is not publicly available, it can be obtained upon individual request. Although this is unlikely to be needed: the device of the machine is so primitive that you can easily navigate the intricacies of its manufacture even from images from school textbooks.

Another positive fact is that the STD-120M, apparently, was designed with the expectation of manufacturing "on site", so you can either find almost all the components for assembly on sale, or make and modify it yourself. Naturally, if it becomes possible to inexpensively purchase components for this machine or its younger brother TD-120, do so. Factory-made parts are more reliable, easier to align, and the unified frame design allows you to assemble one machine from many donors.

Please also note that the standardization of modules largely determines the safety of equipment operation. Basic principles industrial safety are announced in GOST 12.2.026.0-93, and the electrical protection rules are set out in GOST R IEC 60204-1. Conform to these standards any part or machine module that you manufacture.

Bed manufacturing

Instead of a cast iron bed, we offer a lighter welded construction. It consists of two segments of the 72nd corner steel 1250 mm long. The temptation is great to make the bed larger for processing more massive products, but remember that such changes require intervention in other parts of the machine. Perhaps you should take TT-10460 as a sample for a meter-long blank.

We place the corners on a flat horizontal plane with shelves to each other. We insert calibrated inserts between them so that the guide beds are located strictly parallel with a distance of 45 mm. To fasten the guides, we use two corners, the same as on the bed, 190 mm each, which we put from the front and rear edges. Before welding parts, it is recommended to squeeze them with clamps so that the metal does not lead when it cools.

The rails are fastened with another 190 mm jumper, in the lower shelf of which there are cutouts for each corner. This part is installed with the formation of a cell, the dimensions exactly corresponding to the landing spike of the headstock, in the standard version it is 45x165 mm.

Such a bed can be attached in any way to a workbench or deck, but it is recommended to weld all the fastening elements without violating the integrity of the base. If a separate corner is allocated for the machine, weld the legs from the pipe perpendicular to the corners of the frame and, for greater stability, make them a small “bracing” with a sledgehammer. Ultimately, the weight of the bed, fastened to the workbench, should not be less than 60-70 kg.

handcuff

This element conditionally consists of two parts. For both, one type of workpiece is needed - a 50 mm corner, inside of which another, 30 mm wide, is embedded. They are welded along the edges, as a result, two segments of 260 and 600 mm should be obtained.

A short detail is an adjustable handrest base. One of the shelves is cut off, but not completely, a segment of 110 mm long with an oblique cut is left. The other shelf is cut at a right angle of 60 mm from the rear edge. From a thick steel plate, you need to make a reciprocal frame that will clamp the guide of the handstand rack.

To make a guide with a clamp, take an ordinary pipe per inch and make a longitudinal cut in it with a grinder. The resulting sleeve should be about 150 mm long, we put it in a 25 mm corner, orienting the slot outward perpendicular to one of the shelves. We tighten the parts with a clamp and boil along the entire length closest to the slot of the shelf. We cover the workpiece with a second corner of the same length and attach it to the tube from the back.

The guide is welded flat to the protruding shelf of the adjusting rail from its inner side. For fixing, a screw with a long handle and a nut welded to the rail are used. On the reverse side, the reciprocal plate is fastened with a cotter pin or even a welded bar.

The armrest is mounted on a rod of 20 mm smooth reinforcement, which is located in the center with outside corner blank. The rod fits snugly into the tube of the guide system, and when the screw is tightened, it is reliably compressed from all sides. A long corner blank 600 mm long is welded to the bar with a slight inclination towards itself and a slightly “sharpened” leading edge.

Drive and transmission

Standard drive option - asynchronous three-phase motor power up to 2 kW (usually 1.2 kW), connected to the headstock shaft by a V-belt transmission on two-groove pulleys. The bed for fastening the engine can be located between the legs of the frame, or on an additional platform behind the headstock, which will complicate the assembly, but make it more convenient to transfer the belt.

It is far from always possible to use the engine with the desired shaft speed, so reaching the final speed is carried out by adjusting the diameter of the pulleys. For example, if you have a blood pressure at 1480 rpm, then in order to reach the coveted 1100 and 2150 rpm, the diameters of the leading and driven streams must be related as 1:1.5 and 1.3:1.

When placing the engine, it is useful to provide the frame with a plate fixed on the gate canopies. An engine installed according to such a system will always be in a suspended state and will ensure that the belt is tightly pressed by its own weight. And if you equip the platform with a pedal, the speed can be changed even on the go.

On the electrical side, there are no difficulties either. Switching is performed by a standard three-phase starting button with reverse, for such a low-power motor there is no need to install a starter. The only moment is the inclusion of braking direct current while holding the stop button, for which you need a powerful diode bridge (on KD203D) according to standard scheme inclusions.

The frequency controlled motor can be used as a direct drive, eliminating the need to design a headstock. To do this, you need to fix the engine on the transition platform, in the lower part of which there is a longitudinal mounting spike 45 mm wide as a regular alignment tool for the STD120 bed.

Headstock

Looking ahead, we note that both the headstock and tailstock include parts that can be made only with access to a metal lathe. Otherwise, it makes sense to think about purchasing ready-made modules, or at least their cast consoles.

At the base of the headstock are two S, V or U type bearing housings permanently mounted on an angle steel frame. Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict what sizes will be available, but in general, the height of the spindle axis above the bed should be at least 120 mm. Given that the diameter of the spindle shaft is about 25 mm, the bearing assembly will be of most interest with a total height dimension of about 70 mm.

The shaft is machined from round timber carbon steel with a diameter of 40 mm with a tolerance of not more than 0.05 mm. There are two main variations of the shaft. The first is the simplest: the shaft pillar remains in the center, then descents are made to the bore diameter of the bearing units, then threads are cut at the ends. For axial fixation, four grooves are machined on the shaft for retaining rings.

1 — seats for bearings; 2 - grooves for retaining rings

The second variation has an extension in the form of a skirt just behind the thread of the cartridge. It is designed to install a flanged thrust bearing mounted on the ledge of the headstock base. This approach reduces bearing wear if the machine is processing massive parts.

The base of the headstock is two pairs of corners or two channels turned towards each other. By bringing the vertical flanges together and apart, you can adjust the height of the base to the axial height of the existing bearing units. From below, a 45 mm strip is welded to the base, which acts as an adjustment groove. The assembly order is important: first, bearings are pressed onto the spindle, then the shaft is mounted on a frame with a substrate of adjusting steel plates.

tailstock

Making a tailstock is not an example easier. It consists of four parts:

Angle steel base 100 mm high, following the same principle as for the headstock. Two 50 mm corners are bolted on top across the top, in their shelves in the center there are cutouts of 40 mm wide squares.
The guide (external) is a thick-walled square tube 40 mm wide, 150 mm long and with an internal clearance of 20x20 mm. In the back, you need to install a plug with a thickness of 6-8 mm and with a hole in the center of 8 mm, it is fastened with two screws through the walls of the tube.
The inner tube, also known as the quill, is made from a 20 mm profile tube, preferably thick-walled and milled exactly under the guide clearance. An M14 nut is welded in the back of the quill, a metal rod is inserted and welded into the front, widened up to 5 mm to fit a double-row bearing.
The drive screw has a thread for a nut in the quill (it is desirable to make it trapezoidal), in the rear part there is a transition to an 8 mm thread for fastening the flywheel.

The principle of operation and the assembly scheme of the quill are quite obvious, but Special attention should be given to the alignment of the axes. The guide tube, fixed by welding in the cutouts of the corners, can be raised higher or lower due to linings made of transformer steel. The headstock and tailstock must be absolutely aligned, the tolerance is only a couple of tenths.

As for the method of attachment to the frame, it is the same for headstocks and for the handpiece. The M14 or M16 studs are welded to the bottom of the stocks, and a large plowshare bolt is inserted into the slot of the armrest. From below, the modules are tightened with nuts with rods welded to them like levers. For uniform tight pressing from below, a 50 mm channel is placed as a striker.

Making a do-it-yourself lathe copier is not the best difficult task. But in order to achieve the desired result in terms of quality and efficiency, some efforts will have to be made. You will need detailed drawing, copy template and a few hours of free time. We offer you a variant of a copier machine based on a hand mill as a cutting tool.

The proposed copier for your lathe requires little financial, time and labor costs. This is what attracts a large number of craftsmen who need a copier for a lathe.

The cutting device will be a manual milling cutter. At the same time, the operational capabilities of the copier directly depend on the characteristics of the turning equipment itself.

You should not count on the attractiveness of the design of a device created by your own hands, since its main task is to create copies according to a template without unnecessary energy costs.

The device of the machine with a copier

To get started, to create a lathe with a copier, you will need a manual router. Choose its type yourself, depending on the planned work;
The milling cutter is mounted on a support platform with dimensions of approximately 50 by 20 centimeters. It can be made from sheets of plywood 12 mm thick;
At your request, the copy machine can get a larger or smaller area. Dimensions largely depend on the parameters of the selected router;
On the support platform, make holes through which the routers will exit;
Holes for fasteners are also made here. In the role of fasteners, it is optimal to use bolts;
Resistant bars, located along the perimeter and fixed with self-tapping screws, will provide protection against accidental movements of the cutter when processing products;
Having installed the cutter supports between the bars, make sure that it is fixed securely, that there are no vibrations or play;
The far end of the support platform must be able to move along the guide tube along the entire length of the turning equipment;
Use a guide tube with a diameter of 25 millimeters, or adapt to your machine parameters;
The main condition when choosing pipes is that they must cope with the loads from the weight of the router, not bend, maintain evenness, smoothness of the surface;
Fix the pipe ends with a pair of wooden bars of a suitable size;
The bars are mounted to the machine body with self-tapping screws or through bolts.

Installation of structural elements

In order for a lathe with a copier to work efficiently, and the copying process does not raise quality issues, in no case do not rush. It is the rush that does not allow the craftsmen to make a really good copier for a lathe with their own hands.

After studying the drawing, on the basis of which you decided to build a copier with your own hands, stick to the suggested dimensions. If even a small error is allowed, the copying technology can be completely broken, the working axes will go astray.

To prevent this from happening, follow a few important rules.

The axis of the pipe intended for the movement of the router must be exactly parallel to the axis of rotation of the machine.
The coincidence of the axis of the pipe and the axis of the machine is also an important plus, although this condition is not mandatory.
The main point is the coincidence of the router in the lowest position with the axis turning device. This setting is controlled and changed as needed by the placement level of the copier.
Fix the guide tube through the blind holes of the wooden blocks. But immediately before fixing, put two bars on the pipe, on which it is planned to mount the carrier platform.
Wooden bars for the carrier platform must move very easily, or rather slide along the guide pipe. If loosening is noticed, the copy unit will have to be redone.

Many are afraid of the moment when increased requirements regarding sliding are made. But it is not difficult to make a machine with such operating parameters if you use a flat, smooth pipe.

Horizontal bars

The next step is to mount the horizontal piece of wood, which is the second most important working component of your copier lathe.

Adhere to the same accuracy requirements as in the operations described above;
The horizontal bar is connected to the blank profile template;
To make a bar with your own hands, you can use a blank measuring 7 by 3 millimeters and fix it with self-tapping screws to vertical racks;
The wooden racks themselves are mounted to the frame of the lathe by any method convenient for you;
Make sure that the top edge of the horizontal element is parallel to the axis of the machine and is at the same level;
If at some point you don’t need copy functionality, you can easily remove the bar with your own hands, fold the mounting pad to the edge of the machine and use the turning unit according to it. intended purpose without copier;
A vertical stop is mounted to the working table of the cutter. A sheet of thin plywood is quite suitable here. Although if you need more solid construction, use steel sheets;
This element is used to move around the copier when sharpening parts. It sets the spatial position for the working router. Therefore, the copier should be fixed as securely as possible;
Thickness plays an important role. The thinner the vertical stop, the more accurately your pattern will be able to copy the lathe. But even if the stop is too thin, the device begins to move along the pattern with certain difficulties. Therefore, the optimal way out of the situation is the search for an intermediate option;
If you use plywood to make a copier, be sure to consider using its removable structure. This will allow you to easily dismantle the copier when it is worn out, and replace it with a new one with minimal time spent.

Sample

Last but not least important element a lathe with a copier function is directly the copy template itself. It is not difficult to make it, but the configuration depends entirely on the parameters of the products that you want to get using your machine.

Take a sheet of plywood or OSB board;
Apply markings on the sheet according to the contours of the future product that you want to machine on a turning device;
Be sure to compare all dimensions with the required parameters;
With an electric jigsaw, carefully walk along the contours with a cutting blade, cutting out the necessary part;
Finish the edges grinder or regular sandpaper. The template should not have bumps, burrs, notches;
Fix the resulting template on a horizontal rail using self-tapping screws;
Fixing is carried out strictly in accordance with the installation parameters.

Using the drawings and video instructions, you can easily make a fairly efficient, productive copy turning unit yourself. You just need a little patience and time.

Copy lathes are used to make many of the same parts, such as balusters for stair railings, fence posts, etc. You can make a functional design with your own hands, using devices that are unnecessary in the household.

Making a lathe

The most primitive model of a lathe is made of conventional drill. But this is not the only solution. The main parts of the future device:

bed;
front and rear racks (headstock);
electric motor;
leading and slave centers;
tool stop.

The bed is the base for placing all the elements and mechanisms. Therefore, it is made of a thick bar of wood or metal. The headstock is securely fixed on the base, the part will be fixed on it. A device is placed in the front rack that transmits movement from the electric motor to the leading center and then to the part.

The rear post (headstock) moves along the guide on the frame, it holds the free end of the workpiece. An emphasis for the tool is placed between the grandmas. Grandmas must be located strictly along a single axis.

For a do-it-yourself machine, an electric motor with a power of 200 - 250 W, with a speed of no more than 1500, is suitable. If you plan to process large parts, a more powerful engine is required.

A faceplate is put on the electric motor pulley, which fixes large workpieces. The faceplate contains points on which the part is stuffed. The opposite end of the part is fixed with a corner.

To turn an ordinary lathe into a copier, an additional device is required - a copier.

Copier for lathe

The basis of the copier will be an unnecessary hand mill. It is placed on a surface of 12 mm plywood, the size of the platform is 20 x 50 cm. Holes are made in the platform for fasteners and cutters, and stops are installed - bars for fixing the cutter. The router is placed between the clamps and secured with a pair of large nails.

The remote part of the site moves along the frame along the guide - the pipe. Its ends are fixed in wooden bars. The bars are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. When fixing the pipe, use a level and align the axis of the pipe with the center of the machine. Before installation, a pair of bars with holes is put on the pipe, which easily move along the guide. A platform is attached to the bars, on which the milling cutter is placed.

The second important element is installed with your own hands directly on the lathe - a bar in a horizontal position, on which the templates will be attached. A beam of 7 x 3 cm is suitable; it is attached to vertical supports with self-tapping screws. Stands are screwed to the frame. The upper surface of the bar must clearly coincide with the axis of the machine.

When the copier is not in use, the bar is dismantled, the platform with the milling cutter is retracted and the machine turns into a conventional lathe.

The stop is made of thick plywood and is attached to the work surface. In fact, the emphasis plays the role of a copier in this design. It is fixed vertically, to the end of the working surface it is fixed to a transition beam made of wood. The copier can be removed, it is installed on the stand with self-tapping screws. The stand must be fixed firmly, without the possibility of removal.

The templates are made of plywood, with the help of self-tapping screws they are screwed to the front surface of the bar. The top surface of the beam should be aligned with the axis of the template.

Cons of the proposed design

The working surface with a milling cutter has to be moved with both hands, since during operation it warps and jams;
only fairly simple elements can be copied, for example, it is impossible to repeat twisted patterns on columns;
to move the cutter, it is more convenient to provide a screw gear;
and it is better to replace the cutter with a circular, such a device will turn out to be more versatile.

Copier for a wood lathe with a manual milling cutter

We suggest you make your own copier with minimal cost time, the machine can be started in " industrial production»turned parts by the evening. The “cutting tool” will be a hand router, the specifications for the manufactured parts depend on specifications wood lathe. Despite the fact that the copier is made using plywood, it can produce up to a hundred products from one copier, you will agree that this amount is quite enough to fulfill most bulk orders.

The fixture does not look quite "attractive" in terms of design, but we did not set ourselves such a task. We tried to make our “equipment” as simple as possible to manufacture and more or less reliable. Which is what happened in the end. How is a copier made? Let's get to know him better.

copier device

An ordinary manual milling cutter is adapted for a cutting tool; a specific model does not matter. Install the milling cutter on the support platform, we have platform dimensions of 500 × 200 mm, made of sheet plywood 12 mm thick. You can slightly increase or decrease the linear parameters of the site, depending on the size of the hand mill. On the site, make holes for the exit of the cutter and holes for installing mounting bolts. In order to completely exclude unauthorized spontaneous movements of the cutter during operation, we advise you to install additional stop bars along the perimeter on the site, fix the bars with self-tapping screws, the length of the screws is selected taking into account the thickness of the fixing bars.

The milling cutter must be installed between the thrust bars, check the reliability of its fixation, any vibrations are completely eliminated. The far end of the platform should “ride” along the pipe for the entire length of the wood lathe, we used a pipe Ø 25 mm, you can take other pipes for manufacturing. The main thing is that they can withstand the weight of the router without bending, be absolutely even and with a perfectly smooth surface. Fix the ends of the pipe with two wooden blocks, in our case, bars 80 × 35 mm were used. Screw the bars to the body of the lathe using metal screws, you do not have to cut the threads for the bolts. If your machine device does not allow you to fasten the bars in this way, then solve this problem in your own way.

Installation of the main structural elements of a homemade copier

Strong advice - do not rush during the manufacture of equipment, turned parts for a copier do not forgive even the slightest violations of not only technology, but also the location of the working axes. It follows from this that the axis of the pipe along which the milling cutter will move must be perfectly parallel to the axis of rotation of the lathe. It turned out by itself that the axis of the pipe coincided with the axis of the machine, but this condition is not necessary. The main thing that cutting tool cutters in the lowest position coincided with the axis of the machine, and this parameter can be adjusted by the level of the location of the copier.

The pipe is fixed in the blind holes of the bars; before fixing, two bars must be put on it, on which the carrier platform of the router will be installed. Important condition- the platform bars should slide easily along the guide tube, but wobbling is prohibited. Check this parameter, if necessary, manually lap the pipe and bars. Then fix the router support pad to the bars and install the router on it. Once again check the smoothness of the slide, pay attention to the fact that there are no wobbles at all. Do not be afraid of such "strict" requirements for the quality of sliding. If you have a pipe with a normal surface and completely flat, then it is not difficult to achieve smooth sliding.

Installation of a horizontal bar

This is the second "working" element of a home-made copier; in terms of installation accuracy, all of the above requirements must be observed. A detail profile template is attached to a horizontal bar. For manufacturing, a bar of 70 × 30 mm is quite suitable, fastened with self-tapping screws to vertical wooden racks, fix the racks with any convenient way to the lathe bed. The upper edge of the horizontal bar must be parallel to the axis of the machine and be at the same level with it. If the copier becomes temporarily not needed, then the bar can be easily removed, the mounting platform for the router folds back to the rearmost position and the wood lathe can be used for its intended purpose.

Fasten the vertical stop to the working platform of the router, we made it from thin plywood, you can use more durable materials, up to metal ones. This part will move along the copier during turning and set the spatial position of the cutter, fasten the copier as firmly as possible. There is a direct dependence on the thickness: the thinner it is, the more accurately the dimensions will be taken from the template. But there is another dependence - too thin copier makes it difficult to move the device along the template, choose golden mean. The height of the copier must be adjusted after the final assembly of the machine; during the adjustment, all of the above conditions must be observed. One more moment. If you have a copier made of plywood, then you need to make it removable, this will allow you to quickly change the worn-out copier to a new one during turning a large number the same type of products.

Copier stop

How the template is made

There is nothing new here. Draw on a strip of plywood or OSB board the contour of the part being machined, check again all the dimensions and carefully cut it out using an electric jigsaw. The edges must be sanded, remove notches and bumps. Fix the template on the horizontal rail with self-tapping screws, observe all installation dimensions during fixing.

Some features of turning

You will have to move the device only with two hands, otherwise jamming on the pipe is possible. Another problem is that the radii of curvature of turned parts are limited by the diameter of the cutter, this must be borne in mind when choosing the profile of turned parts. Practice shows the dependence of the feed rate on the diameter of the cutter: the smaller the diameter of the cutter, the smaller the feed should be and vice versa.

700 rub

1 450 RUB

1 300 rub

2 300 rub

850 rub

1 140 RUB

1 700 rub

1 800 rub