An easy way to transplant trees. Proper transplantation of an apple tree in summer

September - best term for planting and transplanting shrubs and trees. Shrubs and trees are not the kind of plants that can be transplanted at any time you please. These plants must first form a good young growth. The young growth should mature and only after the leaves have matured and become stronger, it is possible to transplant.

If you are lovingly transplanting some of your plants, and you want it to be guaranteed to take root, then you need to prepare it for transplanting in advance. It is advisable, especially for plants that are difficult to replant, in advance, already in the middle of summer, to start digging a lump. To do this, you need to find out where the root neck is located - the place where the roots begin. It often happens that the plant is planted deep, and when you start to dig it, the spade bayonet is not deep enough, and you can injure the root system. So, already in the middle of summer, it is necessary to dig in the plant without digging it out. Those. you need to expose the root neck and make a cut with a shovel along the diameter of the lump. The roots are cut and the plant is left in place without digging! You can move the lump a little, but in no case take it off the ground. After that, the plant is abundantly watered with water and covered with earth.

During the summer, such a plant will grow safely, and the cut roots, which could go in different directions, begin to give an additional root system to the center of the plant. Thanks to this, when digging, you will get a good root ball, with which you will transplant the plant.

In autumn, you just need to clean the root neck of the plant, thoroughly shed the earthen ball, and then proceed to dig the plant along the same contour along which you dug it during the summer.

In order to transport the plant, it is most convenient to use some thick cloth. For this, old matting bags are quite suitable. So, prepare a bag, ropes with which you will need to tie the plant, and only when everything is prepared, start digging up the plant. On the existing incised contour, make an incision even deeper. If you felt that root system gone too deep, then you can dig up the ground and expose the future lump in order to injure the root system as little as possible. Gradually shake the tree and stick the shovel as deep as possible at an angle to the center. Then lift the tree with a lump from the ground and carefully pack it. Be sure to tie the bag with a lump on the bottom as tightly as possible so that it does not fall apart during transportation. Then you need to put the tied lump in a plastic bag if you are going to transport it over a long distance. If the crown of the tree interferes, then it can also be tied with a rope.

A hole for planting a plant is prepared in advance - in the middle of summer. You should never fall asleep under the plant just brought, fresh soil. Moreover, one should not pour granular fertilizers under the roots, which are slightly damaged during plant transplantation. strong plants can survive it, but still a planting hole, flavored with fertile soil and mineral fertilizers, it is better to cook at least a month before planting.

Before removing the plant from the bag, in order to injure and dry the roots as little as possible, you need to pour off the excess earth and dig seat. For each individual plant, different land. For example, light nutritious loam is very suitable for lilac. If the soils are sandy, well-drained, i.e. those that do not shrink, then the landing is carried out almost flush with the ground. If you think that soil shrinkage may occur, or the earth was poured into the pit immediately before planting, then planting should be done just above ground level.

Most shrubs can be slightly buried when planting. Unlike trees, it is not necessary to ensure that the level of the root collar corresponds to the level of the ground.

When you take the plant out of the bag, set it carefully in the hole. Pour some earth around the earthen clod. Then tamp the poured earth, but you can not press the earth in the center of the coma, otherwise the root system will be damaged. If you doubt whether the lump is well shed, then it is after pouring the earth that it is best to pour water over it. But if both the earth and the earthen ball are well shed, then the plant does not need to be watered at the time of planting. The next step is to form a hole. The hole, especially for a freshly planted plant, should be spacious, such that at least 1 - 2 buckets of water can fit into it. The sides of the hole are lightly tamped and then the plant is watered abundantly, more than once. You can pour 3 - 4 watering cans of water. There will never be excess water after planting.

After you have planted the plant, you need to see if there are any extra branches on it. The roots of the plant are injured, and each extra branch will reduce the possibility of good rooting. For example, if you form a shrub in the form of a tree, then you can immediately remove all unnecessary shoots. You don't have to wait for spring. Also remove all weak branches.

Situations when transplanting fruit trees is required are not so rare. The erection of additional buildings, the redevelopment of the garden, even the elementary thinning of widely overgrown plantings is far from complete list reasons that motivate the gardener to take on this difficult task.

Age of transplant

Any, even the most careful tree transplantation is a very risky operation. And the older the plant being moved, the greater the risk of losing it.

Until what age is it allowed to transplant fruit trees? How often can this be done?

Some guidelines state that only up to 15 years, others - up to 25. The authors of the third are even more categorical: only young seedlings are allowed to be moved.

In fact, a lot depends on varietal features and species affiliation. Crops that start fruiting at a young age tend to be less durable. For them, 15 years is really a deadline. And if an apple tree is able not only to live, but also to bear fruit for up to 40 years or more, 15 years for it is a very small age. It makes sense to relocate such a tree to a new place even after this period.

As for the frequency of transplanting the same plant, here without any doubt - the less often, the better. Each move seriously weakens the tree, may even lead to its death. Secondary dig already arranged on permanent places instances are allowed only if emergency and not earlier than two years later.

When to transplant

The best time for transplanting all plants is spring - the period preceding the swelling of the kidneys, or autumn - after leaf fall. Fruit trees are no exception. But in emergency cases, you can move them at any time of the year - if the tree had to be dug up, you should not delay the process, waiting for favorable conditions.

According to experts, autumn transplantation has some advantages: before the onset of spring, the root system has enough time to adapt. Perform it from the second decade of October to the last quarter of November. But if the autumn is warm and humid, then you should not rush into this, otherwise the fabrics will not be able to properly prepare for wintering.

Winter transplantation deserves special attention, which is recommended to be done during the February thaws. It is possible when the frost does not exceed 15 ° C. If the temperature drops below, the roots of trees can freeze, and it is much more difficult to work with frozen ground.

Transplant methods

You can move an already fruitful tree to another place in three ways that are not very different from each other:

- without a clod of earth - with bare roots;
- with an earthen clod;
- with a long preliminary preparation.

Transplanting a fruit tree with bare roots will require much less time and labor costs for the operation itself than any other methods. But the probability of a favorable outcome in this case is much lower. Therefore, choosing this option, it is necessary to direct all efforts to preserve as much as possible more roots.

Immediately before transplanting, a circular trench is cut around the trunk at a distance of about 40 cm. Its depth can be arbitrary, but usually no more than a shovel bayonet. The soil inside the circle is carefully selected, exposing the roots. It is especially important to immediately determine which of them hold the tree in order to immediately cut the grooves at the border, cleaning the cuts with a knife. Then, a shovel or poles are brought under the released roots, the tree is lifted and removed to the surface.

The planting hole for such a plant must be made somewhat wider than the one from which it is taken out. It is covered with a pre-prepared soil mixture enriched with humus. It is very important that the roots do not bend or break. All voids between the roots are carefully filled. root collar placed 7 cm above ground level.

After backfilling, the soil around the trunk is rammed with feet and moistened abundantly. In water intended for irrigation, it is very useful to add heteroauxin or some other drug to accelerate root formation.

Usually, the open root method is used in spring or autumn for young seedlings and trees no older than four years. For older adults, a transplant is recommended along with an earthen clod. Its size depends on the age of the plant:

- 5 - 7 years - the width of the coma is from 50 to 80 cm;
- 7 - 10 years - the width of the coma is at least 125 cm;
- over 12 years old - width from 1.5 m with a height of at least 60 cm.

Keep in mind that moving large instances will require using additional equipment: boards, winches and even truck cranes.

The whole process can be divided into three stages:

- moistening the soil and digging a trench;
– tree extraction;
- Placement in a new pit.

Before starting the operation, the soil around the trunk must be watered abundantly - so the earthen ball will crumble less. You will need at least four buckets of water. Then a circular groove is dug around the perimeter, corresponding in width to the age of the tree. Its depth should be 30 - 70 cm - depending on how far the roots of the plant lie. The processes protruding beyond the intended diameter are chopped off with a shovel or an ax.

A clod of earth dug in from all sides is removed from the pit, bringing boards, poles, shovels or other improvised equipment under it. Carefully supporting from below, an earthen lump is placed on a sheet of roofing material or a thick polyethylene film. If the landing pit in the new place is not yet ready, then it is better to wrap it with the same film.

A new hole is dug out of such a size that the roots enclosed in an earthen coma fit into it with a small margin. The tree should sink to the same depth at which it grew before. The orientation of the crown to the cardinal points is also desirable to maintain.

The free space around the coma is covered with humus or just garden soil, and slightly compacted. After watering, this land may settle - you will have to add and compact again.

Fruit trees over 10 years old can only be transplanted with prior preparation. They begin it almost a year in advance, turning Special attention to the root system.

First of all, the tree is heavily thinned out, then dug around the perimeter. At a distance of about three-quarters of a meter from the trunk, a trench is made, three bayonets of a shovel deep and one wide. The roots that turn out to be bare are carefully cut or sawn from both sides of the groove. Sections are processed immediately garden pitch and the cut pieces are removed.

The groove is filled nutrient soil, in which peat and humus are added, and watered. For a year, by the time of transplantation, with proper care, all wounds on the roots have time to heal, and new thin roots appear in the loose layer.

Starting to transplant, a new groove is dug around the tree, somewhat wider than the one that was last year. All old sections, as well as regrown roots, should be inside an earthy coma. prepared in this way fruit tree tolerates transplantation more easily, and the likelihood of a favorable outcome increases significantly.

As practice has shown over the years, the best time years for transplanting an apple tree - spring or.

Summer is the ideal period for grafting and preparing a site for seedlings.

However, this does not mean that summer planting is categorically impossible.

Subject to certain conditions positive results can be achieved:

It is recommended to transplant seedlings grown in containers. Such trees have a solid root system that is not injured during transplantation. It is easier to transplant such an apple tree, it will take root faster and practically will not lose in growth;
If you plan to transplant an apple tree with an open root system, it is better to choose as many winter-hardy varieties;
A tree planted in summer requires more. Much more plentiful and mulching is needed;
The most important criteria for a successful transplant - absence of diseases and preservation of healthy foliage. This will be the key to survival and future growth.

Attention! When transplanted into a similar soil, the stress for the tree is significantly reduced.

Apple tree transplant in summer

Timing

As mentioned above, summer is not the best time to transplant, regardless of whether it is June or July. But planting work at the end of August is fully justified in some regions.

By choosing the right day and time of planting, it will be possible to minimize the risks to the tree.

It is not recommended to plant seedlings during prolonged rains;
It is better to avoid the most hot and dry period.

Ideal for transplanting apple trees windless cloudy day. If none are planned, do not start work in the garden under the scorching sun, it is better to postpone them until 7-8 pm or early morning.

Technology

1 bucket of humus;
30 g of potassium sulfate;
200g superphosphate;
2 buckets river sand(if the soil is heavy).

The listed components must be mixed with top layer soil deposited during the process of digging the hole, and fill it, leaving it for at least 15 days.

You can fill the hole fertile land with the addition of compost, ashes and a few handfuls of mineral fertilizers.

What may be needed to transplant an apple tree?

Sharp garden shovel;
Scrap (maybe more than one);
A dense canvas or a cart for moving a tree;
Burlap or box for an earthy coma with a root system;
Rope for tying the crown;
Wooden stakes to support the transplanted tree;
Garden tools for after planting;
garden var;
A large amount of water;
Mulch.

Important! When transplanting seedlings, it is necessary to maintain the orientation of the tree. To do this, by making a mark on the trunk, transplant the tree so that the branches are facing the same side of the world as before the transplant.

Watch the video on how to transplant an apple tree in the summer:

More about transplant:

Saplings

Consider transplanting a seedling with closed root system as the most best option if necessary, summer planting work.

When transplanting a tree in a container, pay attention to some factors:

Tree roots should not hang through the drainage holes;
Check if the soil in the container is sufficiently compacted;
A significant role in the development of the apple tree is played by the proportionality of the earthy coma in relation to the above-ground part;
It is advisable to transplant one-year-old seedlings;
To remove the tree from the container, it is necessary to cut the plastic from top to bottom on both sides and carefully, without shaking off the ground from the roots, release the apple tree.

If the capacity is more than 10 liters, and the tree is 3 years old, you can get a seedling, just by pulling the stem.

Having lowered the apple tree into the hole, it is necessary compact it tightly with earth and water it abundantly.

mature tree

Elderly apple trees tolerate moving quite well at any age up to 15 years.

The key to a successful transplant is maximum preservation of the root system. To do this, it is recommended to dig a groove around the trunk with a radius of 50-70 cm in advance (approximately a year) and fill it with compost. During this time, the roots will have time to germinate, and the earthen ball with the main root system will easily separate and survive unscathed.

To transplant an adult tree, you will need more than one pair of hands and correct technique in the following sequence:

Dig up an apple tree with an earthen clod, the recommended diameter and depth of which is 80 cm - 2 m, depending on the age of the apple tree. The ideal width of the dug roots is equal to the width of the crown;
Pry off the apple tree with a crowbar and carefully lay it on a dense material;
Having wrapped it, fix it on the trunk, and tie up the sprawling branches or wrap it with burlap;
Move the tree to a planting hole dug in such a way that the root system fits free.

Preparing a hole for transplanting an adult tree.

Further landing is made according to the general scheme:

Stakes are driven in around the planted apple tree and the trunk is fixed;
After planting an adult tree during the first year, the trunk circle is not dug up;
In the autumn they fall asleep with humus, and the trunks are tied.

Advice! To reduce stress on the roots in early spring before the start of sap flow, perform a rejuvenating pruning.

Columnar apple tree

Transplanting a columnar apple tree is not much different from transplanting any other tree. The main thing is do not damage the roots and, when digging, leave as much as possible more land on them.

Taking into account the fact that root system such an apple tree superficial- this is much easier to do than in the case of classic views.

Often, columnar apple trees are planted in rows, leaving 40-50 cm between trees and 1 m between rows. Do not forget about the capital support for seedlings, as an integral part of the columnar garden. And in the case of a transplant, it is all the more necessary.

Planting columnar apple trees in "rows".

Important! Columnar apple trees do not tolerate stagnant moisture, they need to provide good drainage at the bottom. landing pit. In this case, the depth of the latter is 50 cm.

Given the superficial root system, high-quality mulching is necessary to avoid unwanted evaporation of moisture.

dwarf apple tree

Suitable for dwarf apple trees sunny place in the garden, and partial shade. between seedlings 3 m, and the diameter of the dug hole is about 60 cm.

After transplanting a dwarf apple tree, attention should be paid several recommendations:

It is necessary to carefully trample the ground around the seedling at a distance of three centimeters from the graft;
Form a roller within a radius of 70 cm from the trunk, which will greatly facilitate watering;
Trim the crown, determining the lower trunk;
Thoroughly mulch the trunk circle.

Is it possible to transplant apple trees in summer in different regions of Russia?

With proper agricultural practices, transplanting an apple tree in the summer can be successful. But it is not available in all regions.

Gardeners Moscow region and middle lane Russia Feel free to experiment. During the spring or autumn transplant in such temperate climate most varieties are successfully accepted and bear fruit, but only winter-hardy apple trees.

It is easier to transfer the transplant to all familiar old ones: "Antonovka ordinary", "Grushovka Moscow". And varieties of the new selection: "Arkadik", "Medunitsa" and others, fortunately gardeners now do not count them.

Apple varieties Antonovka ordinary, Grushovka Moscow, Arkadik, Medunitsa.

Particular attention should be paid to regular feeding . It will contribute to the rapid development of the root system and, as a result, the successful wintering of the tree.

Recall that even with careful preparation and care, the survival rate of apple trees planted during the high growing season is very low. Therefore, in Siberia or Northwest Russia impossible. Probability death such trees almost 100%.

The survival rate of apple trees transplanted in summer is low and if there is no urgent need, it is better to land at the generally accepted time. This will help to avoid or minimize difficulties, and stress for the seedling will be minimal.

There are also several factors that transplant is not recommended at all.:

Apple trees with damaged trunk- most likely, such a tree will not withstand additional stress;
Instances older than 15 years (dwarf apple trees can be moved at a more mature age).

After the start of fruiting, it is worth weighing the pros and cons, even replanting a tree in spring and autumn. Accordingly, about summer transplant there can be no speech.

Planting seedlings from containers is preferred.

Recall that planting seedlings in containers is the most optimal solution. Many nurseries recommend this material for planting. all year round subject to positive temperatures.

Advice! How younger seedling, the easier he will transfer the transplant.

Planting apple trees with love and observing planting agrotechnics is the key to success and a second life for a tree in your garden.

In contact with

Is it possible to transplant a tree or a bush in the summer?

Trees, in case of emergency, can be replanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:

The tree to be transplanted should be taken out of the ground on a foggy or rainy day.
Pits are dug a few months before planting and filled with semi-rotted manure or good compost.
Trees to be transplanted must be healthy.

When digging up a tree, its strong roots are first exposed at the greatest possible distance. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width is half the length of the roots.

If there are no longer large thick roots, then they dig under the tree and cut off the main core of the roots.

When a tree is dug up on one side, then all the roots are cut off from the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side from which it has already been dug up. Then the tree is taken out of the ground, having previously wrapped it with burlap or tarpaulin and pulled it together with ropes.

Planting holes should be twice as large as the roots will take up space. The roots are straightened in a horizontal position, covered with earth. When backfilling, the tree is shaken if possible, and after backfilling, the earth is trampled down and watered abundantly.

The weak part of the tree should face south.

There is another way to transplant trees in the garden.

To do this, a hole of the appropriate size is dug, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and half filled with water (the method of planting in a mash). Then earth and humus are added. All this is shaken up until an earthen mash is formed, into which a tree is planted. The hole is then filled in and watered again. The talker is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Stakes (preferably on three sides) are placed further into untouched soil and with the help of ropes strengthen the tree. A tree planted in this way must be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.

After planting, and even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, the roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly cut with a knife.

After transplanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss to protect the tree from sunlight. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture.

Nevertheless, the autumn method of transplantation is more preferable for which the time has come in the country now.

Reader Tips:

How to transplant a large, large tree (krupnomer)

Having received a plot, the newly-minted gardener seeks to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already multi-meter ...

Transplanting large-sized trees (this is what trees older than 10 years are called) without the appropriate equipment is not at all an easy task. But with two or three pairs of hands possible. Dig around the tree within a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, chop off the roots. Then “hand-to-hand” (or with a winch) lay the tree on its side (without lifting!), Cutting the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Backfill the resulting hole flush with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) in this place. Turn the root ball over onto the bedding, turning the tree upright. And then drag your newcomer to a new place of residence.

My husband and I transplanted trees in November - a cherry tree at the age of 8 and an apple tree at the age of 15. The place where they grew was shaded, and we decided to move them to the sun. There was a risk, of course. But, as they say, who does not risk ...

Holes were prepared in advance, and deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. Humus was poured at the bottom, necessarily two shovels of clay each (there is no stagnant water in our area, and clay retains moisture), a little sprinkled with earth.

They dug up the trees - they dug from the trunk at a distance of 80 cm, chopped off the long roots. Barely dragged "settlers" to a new place. We planted them 10 cm deeper than usual, and made a bowl-type recess to rainwater flowed right under the trees. Finally watered heavily. It was in the last days of November. December was wet, with occasional showers. Perhaps because of this, the trees did not get sick. Have been waiting for spring.

Imagine our surprise when in the spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering- and got accustomed!

In the spring, I watered the apple tree in 2-3 buckets, or even more, in this "bowl", as it needed moisture so that the flowers would not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, watered on dry days. I did it in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits, moisture is needed. I took water from a pond, it is not far from our garden.

They worked, watered, and it settled down. Seedlings benefit from water in a hot summer - it is absorbed into the ground, moisturizing it abundantly, and everything around grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle does not stand under the tree. If your site is too low, I advise you to make drainage at the bottom of the pit so that the roots do not rot.

Instruction

It is advisable to start preparing a tree for transplanting a year in advance. At the end of autumn or, depending on when you are going to transplant, dig a groove around it so that an earthen lump remains around the plant, with which it will be moved to a new place.

For trees with a trunk diameter of four to five centimeters, an earthen ball with a side of about eighty centimeters will be required. For trees with a trunk from eight to twelve centimeters in diameter, leave a lump with a side of one hundred and twenty centimeters. The height of the coma depends on how deep the roots lie, but should not be less than sixty centimeters.

Chop the roots that go beyond the earthen clod, trim the cuts and cover them with garden pitch. Fill the groove with a mixture of equal parts of earth, rotted manure and peat. If you are preparing a tree for spring replanting, do not let the earthen coma dry out in the summer.

Dig a planting hole two weeks before transplanting. Its size should be one and a half times over size earthy coma. Put a layer on the bottom of the hole nutrient soil.

A transplanted tree will receive less damage if it maintains the same position relative to the cardinal points in the new place. Before you begin to remove the earthen ball from the pit, tie a bright marker to one facing south. This will allow you to properly place the tree.

Dig a new groove along the perimeter of the groove with the nutrient mixture so that one of its walls is flat. This will be required in order to remove the tree from the hole. Run a few poles under the earth ball and cut the roots pointing vertically down. Slip a sheet of tin or plywood under it and pull the tree out of the hole. For transportation over long distances, the lump is sheathed with boards or covered with burlap and reinforced with ropes.

Place the tree in the new planting hole, maintaining the original planting depth and orientation of the plant relative to the cardinal points. Fill the gap between the earthen clod and the walls of the landing pit with earth. In the process of falling asleep, water and compact the soil.

Form an earthen rim around the planted tree and water it liberally. It is desirable to add heteroauxin to water for irrigation. In order to prevent sunburn and reduce evaporation, the stem and the lower part of the branches of the transplanted tree are recommended to be wrapped with burlap. The tree trunk should be fixed in a vertical position with three to four stretch marks.