How to prepare gloxinia for the winter to get a rapid flowering in the summer. Gloxinia for the winter

Gloxinia has a pronounced dormant period, which lasts approximately from October to February. Moreover, the periods of rest of gloxinia can shift.
If the gloxinia bush began to consume much less water in October-November, the leaves began to turn yellow and dry out, the plant stopped growing, which means that gloxinia is preparing for winter rest.

Care for gloxinia in the autumn.

The plant must be rearranged to a less lit place, significantly reduce watering to once a week. After yellowing or drying of the stem and leaves, the gloxinia must be cut off, leaving a very small stump.
It should be noted that not all gloxinia sleep in winter.
Gloxinia-first-years, recently grown from the mother's leaf, are not sent for winter rest. A young gloxinia can grow and develop in winter, building up a nodule. Such a plant needs to be given as much light as possible so that the plant does not stretch. In winter, desirable lighting with fluorescent lamps. since gloxinia needs a long daylight hours of 10-12 hours
If gloxinia stretched out during the winter period, then in March the stretched shoot is cut off, leaving the lower pair of leaves. After a while, gloxinia will release new, strong shoots.
Gloxinia, which have already bloomed, have time to grow a good nodule. Therefore, flourishing gloxinia can be safely sent to rest.

Storage of gloxinia tubers.

Store tubers in a dark cool place, at a temperature of +12 +15 degrees. My sleeping gloxinia are stored in a closet on an insulated loggia.
If you decide to store gloxinia tubers in the refrigerator, then before storing the tubers for storage, you must measure the temperature in cold store. It often happens that the temperature on the shelf in the refrigerator is much lower than recommended.

I had to meet negative reviews about storing gloxinia tubers in the refrigerator, so I would recommend finding the coolest place in the apartment where your plants will be stored. It can be an unheated vestibule, a place near the loggia door, a cool locker on an insulated balcony, etc.
There are several ways to store gloxinia tubers in winter:
1. The plant can be left in the same pot in which gloxinia grew. With this method of storage, it is necessary to water about once a month, slightly moistening the soil. To prevent the soil from drying out, a pot of gloxinia tuber can be placed in a plastic bag.

2. Gloxinia can also be stored in a small resealable plastic bag.
The tuber is taken out of the pot, the condition of the roots and tuber is examined.

Pour a small amount of soil into the bag, place the tuber in the bag.
Important: the soil in the bag should be slightly damp, but not wet.

The second method of storing gloxinia has its advantages: stored tubers take up little space, and overdrying of the tuber in the bag is excluded.

Stored nodules should be inspected periodically. If necessary, the soil is lightly watered with a few drops of water. If the tuber has sprouted, it must be removed from the bag and planted in fresh nutrient soil.

For successful development and large, beautiful flowers of room gloxinia, a dormant period is needed from mid-autumn to the end of winter. At this time, the leaves fall off the flower and only the tuber remains. Florist needs to create favorable conditions to maintain the viability of gloxinia during this period. Otherwise, the plant will become less attractive, stretch and bloom poorly.

adult indoor gloxinia needs a long rest in winter. If the plant has already bloomed and formed tubers at least once, it falls into dormancy. Moreover, the larger the tuber in size, the more successfully it is preserved. Young gloxinia, living only the first year, may not fall asleep for the winter. The tuber of such plants is less than 2 cm in diameter, therefore, without creating necessary conditions they dry up and die.

Time of dormancy

Gloxinia is native to South America. Therefore, in its development, the plant adheres to the seasonality of this region. The rest time, when gloxinia is removed for storage for the winter, usually comes in September or October. Then a drought begins in her homeland.

If this does not happen on time, the flowering periods are shifted. According to the rules, they should fall in the spring and summer. To avoid this, care is taken at the beginning of autumn to prepare for winter. With late flowering, they wait for its completion, and then carry out special preparatory activities.

Preparing for winter

Caring for gloxinia in winter at home is to create a special microclimate to maintain the viability of the tubers. The plant needs preliminary preparation for winter. In September or October, after the plant has faded, the light intensity is reduced. To do this, the flower pot is moved to the window overlooking north side. At the same time, the temperature is maintained no more than +15 degrees. Once a potash fertilizer is applied. Watering is gradually reduced, moistening the soil with a small portion of water once every 7 days.

When the death of the leaves begins, watering is stopped completely. During this period, the upper part of the gloxinia does not yet need to be cut off in order to useful material descended from the green mass into the tuber. If this rule is not observed, the vegetation processes will resume. When the green part of the gloxinia dies completely on its own, it is cut off, leaving a stump 1 cm high.

Tuber storage

After finishing preparatory activities adult gloxinia tubers are removed from the soil for later storage. It is convenient to do this by transshipment method:

1. Transfer the earthen ball from the pot into a large wide container.
2. Gently knead the soil with your fingers and divide it into several parts.
3. Remove the tuber and clean off the remnants of the soil from it.

Important!

Then the tuber is washed well under running cool water and dried. Do not send it to storage when wet. This leads to the formation of rot.

Methods and conditions for storing tubers

For wintering gloxinia at home, use different methods. Suitable for storing a developed spine is a plastic bag with a mixture of wet sawdust and washed and heated in the oven river sand. The mixture is slightly moistened. Otherwise, the tubers will turn sour from air deficiency and a large number water.

The prepared mass is poured into the bottom of a tight bag. Then a prepared tuber is placed in it and covered with leftovers so that it is completely hidden from view. After that, the package is removed to a place suitable for wintering.

A room for the successful preservation of tubers in winter must meet the following requirements:

• lack of intense lighting;
• air temperature not lower than +3 degrees and not higher than +15 degrees;
• humidity from 60 to 90%.

These conditions are closest to natural, under which gloxinia winters in its homeland. The easiest way to create the necessary microclimate is by placing bags of onions in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator, designed for vegetables. This option to store gloxinia is suitable if there are few plants.

Important!

The disadvantage of this method is that the air in the refrigerator is very dry. Therefore, you should regularly check the condition of the soil in the bag and, if necessary, moisten it.

Another suitable option- place bags with tubers on a glazed, but not heated loggia or balcony. The air in this case should not warm up above +20 degrees. Otherwise, the tubers will leave the rest stage ahead of time.

If the house has a cellar with a considerable depth, where the temperature is maintained at +5 degrees in winter, gloxinia roots are placed in it. Ideally, if in such a room there is no fungus or mold on the walls and constant humidity is maintained. In such conditions, there is no need to additionally moisten the soil in the bag. It will always be in optimal condition.

If there is no place in the refrigerator, a suitable balcony or cellar, bags with tubers are placed under the bath. In this case, the conditions for humidity and illumination are met, only the temperature remains high.

Periodically, the tubers are inspected during storage so as not to miss the formation of rot. If traces of damage by putrefactive processes appear, the damaged areas are cut off to a normal tuber and the cuts are sprinkled with ash or crushed activated carbon.

Important!

If the bulbs were purchased in the fall, they are immediately sent for storage. Pre-placed for a quarter of an hour in a pinkish solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection and dried.

Storage in soil

It is much easier to take care of a flower in winter if you do not remove the roots from the soil. Preliminary preparation in this case is performed in the usual way. Then the container with the root system in it is moved to a colder room. You can put it on the floor near balcony door, but there should not be heating appliances nearby. This ensures the optimum temperature.

Another option is to take the pots to an unheated glazed loggia or move it to the cellar. Any room where the temperature will be significantly lower than that created during the growing season is suitable.

The topsoil is sometimes moistened with water. You should not water the ground too much, but you should not allow the soil to dry out completely. In this way, it is good to store tubers in the bathroom. For additional cooling, it is occasionally recommended to spread pieces of ice on the soil surface.

Advantages and disadvantages of storage methods

The proposed methods for preserving the viability of tubers are used in accordance with the age and condition of the plant. They have their pros and cons:

• young gloxinia is left in the ground for the winter, so it is more likely to prevent the tuber from drying out;
• if not suitable place there are a lot of places to place pots or flowers, then the out-of-ground method is more suitable;
• when tubers are placed in bags, the risk of rot increases, so they are often checked;
• it is most convenient to keep bags of gloxinia in the refrigerator in winter;
• if not suitable premises or a large refrigerator, it is optimal to place the roots for storage in the bathroom;
• gloxinia bought in the fall can be stored in a soilless way with mandatory pre-disinfection.

Winter care for young gloxinia

For young plants, the winter dormancy period proceeds differently. In the flowers of the first year of life, the tuber is formed very small. Therefore, without additional moisture in winter, it will die. Such specimens do not hibernate. Since the daylight hours at this time of the year are short, the plants are arranged for additional illumination, extending it up to 12 hours.

It is important to keep the air temperature at an optimal level. If the room is hot, then the plant will develop the aerial part and stretch the stem instead of building up a mass of roots. Therefore, the temperature should be maintained at +20 degrees. Water the flower rarely, so as not to provoke rotting of the tubers.

For gloxinia, which have already bloomed once, a special approach is required. They have already managed to form a medium-sized tuber. Therefore, conditions are created for the flower to be in a half-asleep state. To do this, the pots are placed on the north side and sometimes watered with a small amount of water. When the daylight hours lengthen, the rested gloxinia will start growing again.

Gloxinia awakening

With the end of winter, young sprouts hatch on the tubers. This indicates the exit of the plant from sleep. Then fresh soil is prepared, watered a little and tubers are planted in it. It is not necessary to deepen them strongly, it is better to leave the top on the surface. Watering starts 7 days after planting. Strongly the plant is not poured, so as not to provoke fungal diseases.

In the initial period of the growing season, weak sprouts are removed, leaving only a few of the strongest. This is necessary for better tuber formation. It depends on its strength how beautifully and magnificently the gloxinia will bloom.

Important!

Broken off shoots are not thrown away, they will become excellent material for breeding new flowers. They are dug in fresh soil, lightly watered and covered. plastic bottles with multiple ventilation holes.

Possible problems

If the tubers were stored in inappropriate conditions, they wake up ahead of schedule. There are several solutions to solve this problem:

1. If very small sprouts appeared on the tuber, then they are left and the amount and volume of moisture are reduced.
2. shoots big size cut off, and the spine is returned to the storage place. In the spring, it is transplanted into prepared soil.
3. The tuber is immediately planted in a container and illuminated fluorescent lamps. Then the plant grows weak and very thin. At the end of winter, the top of such a flower is cut off and rooted in another pot. After a short time, gloxinia gives young shoots.
4. Keep awakened tubers in cooler conditions to slow down development. At the same time, high-quality natural lighting is created.

When a flower does not awaken at the right time, its vitality is restored as follows:

1. At the bottom of the plastic bag is placed 2-3 tbsp. l. light soil, moistening it with water.
2. Place the bulb on the ground and seal the bag.
3. The bag is placed in a well-lit place so that it has a temperature of +24 to +28 degrees.
4. Every 3 days the bulb is aired.

After 15 days, the tuber sprouts. Their number depends on the quality of the lighting. The better it is, the more sprouts are formed. The awakened plant is transplanted into a pot, leaving 2 shoots on the tuber. Unnecessary pruned and used as a means of reproduction.

Being in a greenhouse, the tuber may turn green. This is normal, after planting in the ground, it will become a normal shade. Sometimes upon awakening, the roots appear first, and not the green mass. Then it is also transplanted into a pot, sprouts appear in a few days.

Wintering without rest

When gloxinia does not fall into a state of rest, it loses its attractiveness, it stretches greatly. Lack of rest leads to the fact that few flowers appear. To avoid this, the plant is sent to rest forcibly.

To do this, cut off the upper part of the flower in October, without waiting until it fades on its own. The containers are rearranged in a darkened, cold room.

Important!

You can not force the Dutch gloxinia, obtained from seeds, to rest. Such a flower has not formed tubers, so it dies.

When the flowering of such a plant ends, cut off the upper part, leaving a couple of lower leaves. Soon, new leaves grow from the sinuses. Care for such gloxinia continues in the usual way.

Conclusion

At proper preparation and the timely implementation of all recommendations, the wintering of gloxinia is successful. With the onset of spring, the awakened plant begins to actively develop and soon pleases with beautiful and abundant flowering.

In winter, there is a high probability that gloxinia may die, so the plant is sent to a dark, cool place, placed in an artificial sleep for recovery. When to get gloxinia, so as not to miscalculate with the time of awakening? You will learn about this in today's article.

Gloxinia should wake up after a forced period of rest. For this to happen, the tuber of the plant must be stored correctly.

Gloxinia storage conditions in winter:

• Cool and dark place;
• Protection from moisture;
• Rest no longer than 4 months;
• Do not dry completely - water occasionally;

Already sent on vacation adult, a little tired gloxinia. Young flowers do not have time to form a sufficient tuber. It can noticeably rot, deteriorate or not wake up - there is a high probability of losing the plant.

When to get gloxinia out of a dark place: at the beginning or end of March. Look at when the sprouts will break through - a signal of the awakening of gloxinia. Before a possible awakening, it is not necessary to remove or disturb gloxinia.

How to wake up gloxinia after hibernation?

We take out gloxinia from a dark place, expose it to light. At the beginning of spring, the lighting will not be intense, so there is no need to be afraid for the condition of the flower. Start watering. Moisture will contribute to the formation of new shoots. You will stimulate their development and watch how the flower gradually forms a beautiful, flowery hat. Basically, gloxinia should form at least 1-2 shoots, but if this does not happen, it's time to look for reasons.

Gloxinia did not wake up: causes and remedies

Improper storage, as we noted above, can affect the awakening of gloxinia. Make sure even before the dormant period that you are familiar with all the rules for caring for the plant in winter.

Why gloxinia does not wake up:

• Dry tuber;
• Poor quality plant;
• Young plant;
• Rotted or flooded;

Put in a dark place- a closet, closet, under the bath - forgetting about moistening before the start of spring is not necessary. Periodically check the condition of the soil mixture, adding water as needed. An overdried tuber can be placed under polyethylene film or package. Fill up in home greenhouse wet sphagnum moss, tie off. resuscitation should help gloxinia re-hydrate, but it is better to inspect the tuber.

Blackened or visibly rotted tuber Gloxinia is no longer suitable for cultivation. Most likely, the storage conditions did not fit. Perhaps heavy watering or a damp, cold place affected his condition.

A young plant or low quality tuber also slows down development. Young gloxinia is not sent for storage, but potentially low-quality tubers treated with "Fitosporin" before the dormant period. You can withstand it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to strengthen and protect against subsequent pest damage. Plant a gloxinia tuber after dormancy in a dark place in a nutrient substrate - the store land is depleted and not suitable for forcing.

↓ Write in the comments how do you navigate when to get gloxinia out of a dark place? When did your home beauty start to wake up?

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The plant is thermophilic and grows well at an air humidity of at least 50%. This is a tuberous type belonging to the Gesneriaceae. The second name is synningia. It came to us from the tropics. Gloxinia lived in the mountainous regions of the Amazon River, in its upper part. There, periods of heavy rains turn into winter drought with a decrease in temperature, and the flower is used to hiding and waiting until the showers that feed the soil come again. Therefore, gloxinia refers to flowers that require a dormant period.

Interestingly, in the past, amateur flower growers often believed that dropping leaves and withering, gloxinia passes away like that and was simply thrown away. It is necessary to take care of it in resonance with its biorhythms, otherwise the plant will become exhausted, will waste its life potential in an abnormal way, will not have time to gain enough strength for the upcoming flowering, and even, possibly, will die.

At home, it grows well in the kitchen and on the insulated loggia. because the humidity is higher there. conducted, leafy and from the tops, as well as tubers (read how to grow gloxinia from a leaf).

On a note. Gloxinia herself “knows” when she needs to rest, at this time the foliage begins to turn yellow.

Usually the plant is prepared for bed from September-October. Watering is gradually reduced to nothing, and the dried leaves are carefully cut off, the pots are moved to more shaded places. The dream of a flower is quite long, it takes more than one month.

How and when does it happen?

In autumn, the flowering of adult synningia is no longer so active and gradually stops altogether. In order not to bring down the natural process, gloxinia stop feeding, minimize watering. Enough time must elapse for the . You can cut the drying leaves to the very root, or you can, leaving arrows of 2-3 cm each. A semi-dark zone with a temperature of + 10 ° C to + 13 ° C is ideal for the winter.

During sleep, gloxinia is very poorly watered, once or twice a month. Pour some water strictly along the edge of the pots so as not to wet the surface of the tuber. When watering, take a little warm water.

The second hibernation option is the storage of tubers in a sandy substrate, or in peat, or in sphagnum moss. The tubers are removed from the pot and added dropwise to the selected substrate, keeping there until the end. winter period. Every month, once spraying with warm water is done on the coma in which the tuber is stored.

The temperature is the same as in the first version, 10-13 degrees. More experienced flower growers-artists, knowing the nature and habits of the plant, having subtly studied them, are guided by other indicators using a labile dormant time schedule, where in each case the period is calculated individually.

young plants

How to get?

The method that will be optimally applied depends on which storage option is chosen - in the ground or without it.

Reference. Regular monitoring of moisture levels and rot is required. If rot has appeared, we clean it, process it with potassium permanganate.

A wounded place, eaten away by a fungus, after cleansing, sprinkle with ash. If the tuber is acquired in the fall, then during storage it is necessary to use a soil-free method, having carried out disinfection both before hibernation and after it (you can learn more about gloxinia diseases and how to treat them).

in the soil

This is a simpler and more reliable option, the risk of decay is minimal. Preparation for sleep is carried out according to the same scenario. About how to pick best soil for gloxinia, you can find out.

1. We move the pot with the tuber to a cool and shady place.
2. Periodically slightly moisten the top of the soil.
3. You can add ice cubes to lower the temperature.

Also, the pot can be covered with a bag and put in a cool place. Do not forget to check for moisture and make sure that the tuber does not sprout. To "control" the temperature, you can put the pot in a box and put a thermometer inside. The same applies to the groundless storage method. Tuber checks should be done twice a month.

The rest period lasts four to five months. By the end of January, you can expect awakening in the form of the first sprouts. When this happens, you should return the plant to a pot with fresh soil and put it in the brightest place (we wrote about what size pot is needed for the healthy development of gloxinia). They dip just a little bit. The sprout should rise slightly above the layer of earth, or be on a par with it. In the first seven days, watering is not done, then they start with moderate doses of moisture, gradually bringing it to normal.

Growth stimulation is not done until February, so that the tuber does not use up strength., because the more it is, the more abundant the flowering will become. Excess shoots are removed, leaving three or four things when they reach five centimeters in length.

You can use them for breeding, rooting in a jar, like a small greenhouse, periodically hardening and airing.

Attention! If it turned out that the tuber was rotten at the end of hibernation, then you need to disinfect it using the above method.

It can also be placed in the root for feeding.

Useful video

The dormant period of gloxinia. Storage of gloxinia tubers in winter at rest:

Conclusion

Advantages and disadvantages of soil and soilless methods:

• the risk of drying out during ground storage is minimal, this is especially important for young plants;
• storage in pots takes up a lot of space;
• when stored without soil in bags, it is possible to control for rot;
• the soilless method makes it possible to winter in the refrigerator.

Gloxinia, one of the most beautiful representatives of the Gesneriaceae family, in Europe, gloxinia flower home care began to be produced by the second half of the 19th century. The plant comes from the tropical forests of distant Brazil. The botanical name of gloxinia is Sinningia hybrida.

General information

The tropical beauty received it in honor of Wilhelm Sinning, a gardener at Boston University, who "fell in love" with a flower and devoted a lot of time to its selection and hybridization. The name Gloxinia comes from the German "Glocke", which translates as a bell. Indeed, the shape of the flowers of the plant is very reminiscent of bells.

Gloxinia-sinningia is a perennial tuberous plant with a shortened stem and thick dark green velvety leaves. The flowers, as mentioned above, are bell-shaped and come in a wide variety of colors and shades.

Some types of gloxinia have a bright, eye-catching speck along inner surface flowers, while others surprise with the beauty of their frilled edge of the flower, painted in a contrasting color. Depending on the variety, gramophone flowers can be simple or double.

Gloxinia home care

Gloxinia is an undemanding plant in care and even an inexperienced grower can grow it. The flower loves a lot of light, but without direct sunlight, as they can cause burns on the leaves. Optimum temperature air is 18-21 degrees in summer and 10-15 degrees in winter.

Gloxinia when caring for at home in which she is very "afraid" of spraying and drafts. From getting water on its leaves during spraying, it may appear dark spots and decay on leaves and flowers.

To provide required humidity plants are placed on a tray with pebbles filled with water. The water evaporates and will humidify the air around the flowers.

Watering gloxinia

Water soft gloxinia warm water so that it does not fall on the leaves or flowers. You can pour water into the pan and leave the plants to “drink” for half an hour. The water remaining after the procedure is removed.

During the period of growth and flowering, gloxinia is watered 2-3 times a week, and during rest - no more than 1 time per month. When watering a gloxinia flower, it is necessary to ensure that there is no excess moisture, as the plant can rot and die.

Gloxinia rest period

Gloxinia pleases with its flowering from April to September, and then a dormant period begins. At this time, the aerial part of the plant dies off and the tubers "fall asleep" for several months (3-4). After the complete death of the upper part of the plant, it is cut off, leaving about 1 cm above the ground.

Pots with “sleeping” tubers are moved to a dry, dark and cool place, making sure that the soil does not dry out. Accordingly, occasionally watered. You can not take out the plants, but simply cover them on top of the soil with a thick layer of clean and dry sand and leave them in the room.

Some flower growers, 2-3 weeks after the death of the aerial part, dig up the tubers and, having cleaned them of dead roots, store them in sawdust or peat in a dark, cool place. Tubers are periodically inspected for drying out or high humidity which are removed as needed.

Gloxinia after dormancy

Gloxinia begin to wake up somewhere in January-March. If the flower hibernated in a pot, then it is dug up, cleaned of soil, diseased and dried tubers are removed. If rotten places are found, then they are cut out with a sharp knife and sprinkled with powdered charcoal. After these procedures, the tuber is left for a day to dry.

Gloxinia tuber planting

Before planting a gloxinia tuber, it is advisable to soak it for 30 minutes in a solution of a fungicidal agent (for example, Funzadol, Maxim) or a dark pink potassium permanganate solution to prevent the formation of rot.

The pots are selected so that they are 1-1.5 cm in diameter larger than the previous ones, since, having got into a too large pot, gloxinia will begin to grow tubers, and you may not wait for flowering. The plant should be planted in such a way that top part tuber slightly "peeped out" above the soil.

Ground for gloxinia

Planting soil can be purchased from flower shop. Suitable "Saintpaulia" or "Violet". You can also prepare the mixture for planting yourself. To do this, mix sand, humus and leafy soil in a ratio of 1: 4: 4. Good drainage must be ensured. Transplanted gloxinia are placed on the windowsill and watered once a week.

Fertilizers for gloxinia

Be sure to fertilize the plant. When using liquid complex fertilizer this is done every two weeks. If you use fertilizer in the form of sticks, then one such stick is enough for about 2-3 months.

Gloxinia from seeds at home

Gloxinia can be propagated by seeds, leaf cuttings and tuber division. Getting seeds at home is almost impossible. It's easier to buy them in the store.

Sowing is carried out in November-February in low boxes, which are filled, taken in equal quantities and thoroughly mixed, with sand, peat and leafy soil. Seeds are simply sown on top of the soil, without sprinkling, and placed in a well-lit place.

It is necessary to spray regularly with warm water and maintain the temperature at 24-26 ° C. Seedlings can be expected no earlier than 2 weeks later. When the seedlings grow and they have 2 leaves, they are planted at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other, and when the third pair of leaves appears, the distance between the plants is increased to 5-7 cm. They are transplanted into pots during the period when the plants begin to touch each other with their leaves. The diameter of the pots should be 10-12 cm.

Reproduction of gloxinia cuttings

Gloxinia at home is quite simple to propagate using cuttings. To do this, select large and healthy leaves, cut them obliquely with a sharp knife and place them in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate for 8 hours. Then leaf cuttings placed in cups with clean water which is changed weekly.

When roots appear, future beauties are planted in cups with soil or on peat tablets and cover plastic bags. Packages are removed once a day for a few minutes to ensure ventilation. After the formation of tiny tubers at the ends of the cuttings, the packages are removed completely, and the grown plant can please the owner with its flowering in the same year.

Gloxinia leaf reproduction

It is also possible to reproduce gloxinia with one leaf blade without a cutting. To do this, cut off a healthy leaf and cut it along the central vein between the branches.

Next, the sheet is laid with cuts down on moistened peat or sand and covered with a bag. "Cubs" of gloxinia are formed from notches on the sheet. Transplant them into pots when more than 3 true leaves appear.

Propagation of gloxinia by tuber division

In order to reproduce gloxinia by dividing the tuber, it is necessary to select strongly overgrown tubers. They are cut with a knife into pieces so that each of them remains with 1-2 sprouts. Fresh cuts are covered with crushed coal and planted in pots with moist soil.

Diseases and pests

Like all houseplants, gloxinia is exposed to diseases and pests. Of the last "lovers" of the flower are thrips, spider mite, aphids, caterpillars and nematodes. Destroy them with the help of special insecticides.

At the same time, you need to be very careful when choosing a remedy, since some of them are capable of not only destroying pests, but also the plant itself.

Among the diseases, the most common are tuber rot, blackleg, fusarium and gray rot. Usually the cause of their occurrence is excessive watering.

For prevention, tubers are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, "Immunocytophyte" or another fungicide before planting. For “treatment”, the affected tissues of the plant are removed with a knife, the cut points are covered with chopped charcoal and treated with suitable fungicides.

Possible difficulties

At proper care the tropical beauty gloxinia can live up to 10 years, delighting its owners with colorful blooms. Moreover, the older and more developed the plant, the more flowers it will have. Sometimes their number reaches 50 pieces!

• On gloxinia leaves brown spots- this indicates the ingress of water on them, as well as the use of too cold water for irrigation.
• Gloxinia leaves turn yellow - a sign of dry or too humid air, direct sunlight or an excess of fertilizer.
• Gloxinia leaves curl - this happens with excessive feeding and when exposed to drafts.
• Elongated pale leaves are a sign of a lack of lighting.
• Plaque gray color on flowers and leaves - this indicates the defeat of the plant with gray rot.
• The flowers remain hidden under the leaves - this happens when the daylight hours are short or the temperature is too low.