Hand riveter, how to use it and how it works. How to rivet - automatic and manual methods for different materials How to remove a blind rivet

Blind rivets are a popular fastener widely used for joining sheet metal. This fastener is installed very simply, but its disadvantage is that the rivet connection is non-separable and during installation, maximum care must be taken when determining the installation location of the hardware. But what if, nevertheless, a mistake is made and the rivet needs to be removed?

We use a drill

A rivet connecting sheets of metal can be removed just as easily as it is installed. In order to remove the hardware, you will need an electric drill and a metal drill. The diameter of the tooling of the drill should be slightly larger than the diameter of the rivet shaft, but less than the size of the head. When starting dismantling, you need to know that the ultimate goal of drilling is the destruction of the head holding the fastener in the metal, and not the complete drilling of the rivet. In the event that the diameter of the rod of the product is unknown, it is necessary to measure the outer rim and, based on this parameter, find the desired size in the hardware manufacturer's catalog.

When drilling a rivet, the number of revolutions of the drill chuck is set to a minimum - this will allow you to complete the work as efficiently and quickly as possible. The end of the drill is installed in the recess formed by the sides in the center of the head, and the tool itself is positioned so that its axis is strictly perpendicular to the material connected by the rivet. You need to start drilling very carefully so that the drill does not slip and cause damage to the material. In some cases, especially when it comes to miniature fasteners, it is recommended to use a hand drill.

When the drill "passes" the head of the blind rivet, the connection will break. In some cases, when the hardware rod does not fall out after reaming, it is recommended to use a hammer and punch of a suitable size. In order to knock out a rod from sheet metal, 1-2 accurate blows of medium strength are usually enough. If the work is done carefully, then the metal around the junction will not be damaged. After the rod is removed from the hole, you can move on to the next rivet.

The method described above is good in cases where the work needs to be done as carefully as possible, and there is a drill and a set of drills at hand. But sometimes, if the aesthetic component is not too important or when there are no power tools at hand, you can use another method, for example, knocking down the rivet head with a chisel.

Blind rivets are made from non-ferrous alloys or mild steel, so it is not at all difficult to “chop off” its head with a chisel. To remove fasteners, the cutting edge of the tool is inserted under the edge of the head, and then hit with a hammer until the top of the hardware is removed. The remains of the rivet can be knocked out with a punch of the appropriate size. It should be said that this method is not sparing for the elements to be joined and, if the metal around the rivet was painted, the coating will inevitably be damaged.

In the past few years, in hardware stores you can find such a tool as a riveting nozzle. This is a simple and effective rivet remover that comes with an electric drill. The principle of working with a nozzle is the same as with a conventional drill, but at the same time, drilling can be done faster and more accurately. The device allows you to accurately set the drill above the center of the head and drill to a depth strictly limited by the setting, sufficient to remove the upper part of the hardware. Unfortunately, this device is not universal and you will have to use interchangeable accessories of different diameters for fasteners of different sizes. The purchase of a nozzle makes sense only when a large amount of dismantling is to be performed or if the work is carried out in extreme conditions. Often, drills with such equipment can be seen in the arsenal of roofers working at height - working with a nozzle allows you to remove hardware using one hand.

Many have seen this device in tool stores - but not everyone knows how to use it. Those who have never held an exhaust riveter in their hands will simply not be able to appreciate the convenience and versatility of its use.

Rivet joints have been and remain a versatile and inexpensive way to splice various parts. In shipbuilding and aircraft construction, this is generally the only way to attach the skin to the frame.

Classic riveting looks like this:

This is how they riveted the body of the Titanic and the handle to your frying pan.

IMPORTANT! The rivet connection is non-separable. To separate the parts, it is necessary to mechanically break (drill, cut) the rivet.

Modern technologies have also touched this ancient method. In everyday life, few people use a hammer and a crimping nozzle. There are semi-automatic tools that allow you to rivet parts to each other with almost one hand. True, the rivets look a little different.

How does a hand riveter work?

To understand the process, you need to see the rivet in action. The diagram shows its main elements:

The rivet sleeve is placed in the prepared hole. The tool is put on the core and rests against the collar of the rivet. The fixed rod is pulled out of the sleeve, riveting its upper part.

When the riveting is completed and the head of the core is firmly seated in the riveted bushing, the rod comes off. The riveted materials are connected only by a sleeve.

IMPORTANT! The material describes a mechanical exhaust riveter. There are hydraulic, pneumatic and electric devices. However, they are not used in everyday life.

The principle of operation of the tool itself and its device will also be considered in the diagram.

• the head (1) is put on the core of the rivet installed in the hole;
• the body (2) performs the functions of the lower handle and thrust bed;
• the upper handle (3), leaning on the frame with the help of the axis (9), is a power lever;
• when squeezing the handles, the working sleeve (4) compresses the collet cams (5), tightly fixing the rivet shaft;
• continuing to move, the collet mechanism pulls the rod out of the rivet bushing, forming a riveted ring;
• when the handles are opened, the cone bushing (6) under the action of the spring (7) opens the cams, allowing the collet mechanism to take its original lower position;
• the cover (8) is a stop for the spring, it is removed for maintenance of the collet mechanism;
• for the convenience of the operator, interchangeable heads (10) are stored in the body, for different diameters of rivets.

Rivets are one of the most primitive types of fasteners. They are used to connect sheet steel and tin, as well as plastic and even leather. The joints that are made with rivets are very strong and removing the rivet is an extremely difficult task. In fact, in order to remove rivet you need to cut off her head, otherwise nothing will work. And to apply this rivet then more closely, of course, will not work. It will only be allowed to be thrown out.

You will need

• file, chisel, pliers

Instruction

1. The difficulty in removing rivets lies in the fact that you need to be extremely careful and tidy so as not to damage the surface from which you remove it. Rivets are made from different materials with different properties and different strengths. Therefore, choose the removal method in the first place depending on the material.

2. Most likely, you will need a lot of time to work, so be patient and have the right tools. From the tools, prepare a file, a chisel, pliers, perhaps even a drill with a thin drill. In a word, get virtually every choice of tools, as you may need any of these tools.

3. If you are removing a rivet from a metal or similar surface, use a file first. This will be acceptable if the head of your rivet itself is above the surface it connects. If the file does not give the expected results, use a chisel. But be careful, try to scratch the surface as little as possible and not hurt your fingers.

4. Because rivets are not only made from different materials, but also come in different types, the approach to removing different types will also be different. So, if the head is not located naturally above the surface for which it serves to connect, but has a countersunk head, use a drill instead of a file and a chisel.

5. The drill should be thin, but it must be strictly selected according to the diameter. First, carefully drill out the countersunk head of the rivet, and then pick up a rod or a similar tool, the main thing is that it fits the diameter correctly, and try to knock out the head.

6. After you have mastered the head, carefully bend the teeth with pliers and pull out the rivet shaft. The edges of the hole that remain after the rivet are treated with the appropriate method for the material.

7. In the event that the rivet needs to be removed from a leather product, everything will be more difficult if it is important for you to damage the surface of the material as little as possible. In this case, only pliers will do. Carefully squeeze the head in several places, and then try to loosen it.

8. If possible, carefully bend the teeth of the rivet and pull out the rod. If the rivet does not give in, pulling its head slightly up from the material with pliers, file it with a file. And then follow the same pattern.

When sewing and repairing clothes, you may need to supply riveting. The fastener in the form of a button-button of 2 parts (upper and lower) is comfortable to use and lasts long enough without wear. However, if you have never come across this piece of sewing accessories, then it is absolutely cool to prepare for its installation. To rivet buttons on fabric, you will need special tools, precision and accuracy. If you make a mistake, then it is allowed to spoil both the riveting itself and the clothes.

You will need

• - Button;
• - a blade or a knitting needle;
• - special pliers for rivets (or pliers and a hammer);
• - a piece of soft plastic;
• - scissors;
• - 2 pieces of rubber;
• – highly professional press punch (optional).

Instruction

1. Find special pliers for clothes rivets in a fabric and sewing accessories store. When buying them, check the package: you will need a nozzle that fits the diameter of your riveting, and the tongs themselves with a lock. In order to put a riveting on clothes, you need to make a hole in the canvas in advance. It should be smaller than the base of the sewing accessories. Make a cross cut with a sharp razor blade, or carefully poke a hole with a red-hot knitting needle.

2. Insert the front of the button into the hole made from above, and its wrong side from below. It is necessary to attach the parts of the fastener as diligently as possible so that they do not move when riveting.

3. Cut out a square shape from soft plastic to better hold the parts of the rivet. For this, a dense cover for books and school notebooks is suitable. Fold the resulting rectangle in half with a “book”. Now it is necessary to make two holes on it - for the bottom and wrong parts of the rivet. Fix the fittings in the "nests", put the canvas with the place marked for the fastener between this simple device.

4. Put on both parts of the button pieces of rubber - say, cut from leaky boots, or gaskets for sanitary ware. When working with pliers, you need to apply a strong force, and you risk deforming the surface of the product.

5. Grasp the rivet with pliers and squeeze the handles of the tool all the way - you should hear a classic click. It is also allowed to use improvised means - ordinary pliers, or a hammer. In this case, rubber gaskets will become a necessary condition for successful work.

Helpful advice
If you didn’t succeed in putting the riveting on your own, contact the studio, where there is a special press punch for buttons, eyelets and other fittings. You can buy such a device in the store. Proceed according to the instructions. In order to strengthen the fastener on your clothes with his help, you will not need to make significant efforts.

Quite often, when the printer is not used for a long time, it stops accepting paper, blinks all the lights and does not print at all. This means it's time to change the print head. This can be assigned to the masters of the service center, and it is allowed to do it independently, so as not to pay extra money.

Instruction

1. Remove the paper feed tray. It is not necessary to remove the cover. Primitively open the latch by pressing it with your finger and pull the tray towards you. Later, after unscrewing the screws, dismantle the false panels. Please note that there are also latches under the screws - press them a little and the plastic will bend. Grab the edge of the sidewall and slide the panel away from you. To remove the bezel on the other side, follow the same steps.

2. Remove the USB frame. To do this, pull it up and back at the same time. Under it are the screws that fix the case. Remove both screws and remove the upper housing. Next you will see the latches that you need to simultaneously clamp and pull the plastic towards you. Later, you can remove the printer cover by pulling it up.

3. Unlock the carriage in order to dismantle the nodes. Find a huge white gear inside the printer in the left corner. Carefully rotate it with your hands to unlock it. Perform all operations after unplugging the printer from the network beforehand. Before turning on the printer, make sure the carriage is in a positive position - slide it into the parking lot.

4. Disconnect all electrical cables and dismantle the safety plates that are located on the inside and outside of the carriage. Also remove the contact power supply of the chips. To do this, move the carriage to the right as far as it will go, simultaneously clamping the latch. Lift the block up and dismantle its right side.

5. Move the carriage to the left as far as it will go and correctly also remove the chip power supply from the left side. A print head will appear in front of you, which is fastened with three bolts. Unscrew them, remove the cables from the connectors, then remove head .

6. Replace head and reassemble the printer in reverse order. If you are doing this operation for the first time, then for comfort and a guarantee of proper assembly, write down all your steps, so that later you can repeat them exactly and not leave “extra” details.

Related videos

To date, the most reliable version of fasteners is one-piece, and, having special tools on hand, you can not think about the question of how to rivet a rivet. Next, we will describe exactly how such fasteners are performed.

1

What is this fastener? Initially, historically, it is a metal rod, less often a plate. Always with a mortgage head on one side (a cap that limits the movement of the element in the hole) and a closing head on the other end. It was first used to make armor such as armor and chain mail, as well as to combine some elements of melee and early firearms. If the embedded head is present initially, then the closing one arises as a result of the process of upsetting (riveting) or with the help of a special tool due to deformation by a drawing rod. It is logical that the draft is applied to cast or stamped, all-metal elements, and deformation by the rod is possible only when using hollow (tubular) blind rivets. There are also explosive and split options.

Various types of rivets

So, we know that the fasteners we are considering are one-piece, which often ensures high reliability. But the strength of the connection depends primarily on the material, so we will first consider the varieties of rivets according to this characteristic. Aluminum fasteners are the most common, and copper and brass rods are used in many manufacturing processes, as well as in a number of crafts. All these materials do not have a high degree of reliability and are suitable only where there are no large loads, for fastening decorative parts. Among other things, there are steel rivets, including those made of stainless steel, they provide a fairly strong connection and are even suitable for assembling load-bearing structures and mechanical engineering.

When mounting metal parts, it is very important to use rivets made of the same material as the elements to be joined.

2

Before using rivets, you need to know how to properly rivet certain parts. There are many ways to connect, but they are usually divided into 3 types. Strong fasteners are used exclusively where certain loads are present. Tight, as the name implies, is needed in order to ensure tightness at the joints of sheets or any parts. And, finally, firmly sealed perform both functions. It should be noted that for the second type, that is, for hermetic rivets, the embedded heads are made reinforced.

Blind rivets

The most common method of connection is overlapping, while it is applied not only to, but also to details of complex shape. This option is also called single-cut. Under the influence of multidirectional loads, for example, when stretching, such a seam can easily deform. A butt joint is more durable, using one or two (on both sides of the seam) overlays, but this option, also called multi-shear, greatly burdens the structure and leads to greater material consumption. The installation of rivets during fastening can be chain or staggered, the second is more reliable, but very laborious.

Mortgage heads come in a variety of shapes. The most commonly used are semicircular and hidden. The former completely cover the hole, like a screw head, and for the latter, the channel is flared so that the head, which has the shape of an inverted cut cone, fits completely in the hole. In the second case, the surface of the part remains smooth, since the riveting occurs flush, and the destruction of such rivets becomes difficult. There are also semi-hidden form factors (with a slight rounded bulge), flat, flat-conical, conical and oval.

3

The most commonly used today are pull-out riveting elements, which are especially convenient if you need to attach a part to a surface whose opposite side is inaccessible. They are a tube with a flare at one of the ends (analogous to a mortgage head), in the channel of which a rod with a cap passes at the even end of the riveting. From the flared side, a large part of the rod is extended, with which the tool clamp is engaged, for subsequent pulling through the tube. Its smooth end is crushed by the cap of the rod and forms a closing head.

Rivets for metal

However, it should be borne in mind that when two parts are connected, its channel also expands, so the edges of the holes must be strong, not subject to deformation. Therefore, to fasten plates made of a sufficiently soft material, be it plastic or aluminum, embedded steel bushings or washers should be used on both sides of the connecting parts. The same applies to joints that must be movable, articulated, they are also applicable in combination with bushing washers, and their length must exceed the total thickness of the plates being fastened.

4

Unlike pull-outs, conventional cast or stamped riveting elements must be installed using certain forces applied to the trailing end. This can be pressing or targeted impacts to flatten the end of the rod emerging from the hole. The second option is most reminiscent of forging, especially since it is performed in a cold or hot way. If the thickness of the riveting does not exceed 1 centimeter, cold forging of the closing head can be used. If the diameter is more than 10 millimeters, then it is necessary to heat the fastener to facilitate flattening of its end.

Rivet tool

As a rule, before hot riveting, the rivet is heated in a forge, after which it is installed in the hole and a flat closing cap is made with a few strong blows. In this case, an anvil with a hole under the mortgage head should be located below. For the cold method, a special tool is used - a striker with a semicircular hole, with which an even hemisphere is formed by deforming the end emerging from the hole within the recess. Forging with an ordinary hammer gives the same result if you hit the butt, directing the blows slightly casually, from the center to the edges, but such a head will be less accurate.

5

As we have already said, the type of connection under consideration is one-piece, however, if it is still necessary to disassemble the structure, the parts of which are riveted together, several different methods can be used. The most common, which is usually applied to exhaust, explosive and split types of fasteners, as well as where there are countersunk heads, is drilling. To do this, a drill corresponding to the estimated or precisely known diameter of the hole is installed exactly in the center of the mortgage or closing head, after which a hole is made to the required depth or a through channel. After that, with a few precise blows, you can easily knock out the riveting.

Rivet removal tool

The second method is somewhat laborious, however, quite effective for heads that are clearly visible above the surface, that is, for semicircular and conical heads. You will need a special chisel, resembling a chisel shape, with which you need to cut off the hat, causing sharp and strong blows to the back end of the handle. A sharpened chisel may also work, but this tool is only recommended for small diameter rivets. Fasteners with a rod of about 1 centimeter or more are very difficult to cut in this way.

The easiest method for removing raised rivets is to use an angle grinder, colloquially referred to as a grinder. It is best to install a cutting disc on it for this purpose, and, bringing it to the side of the head, carefully cut it off. If there is a possibility of damaging the surface of the part from which the joint is being removed, it is recommended to use a coarse grinding wheel, with which the head is simply gently ground down to the base. Further, by installing any sufficiently sharp tool, for example, a punch, you can easily knock out the rivet rod from the hole with a strong hammer blow.

A rivet is a disposable fastener designed to fasten 2 or more parts. To install this fastener, a riveter is used. How to remove the rivet will have to proceed from the availability of improvised means, because there is no universal tool. In addition, the selection of materials for metal structures is carried out in accordance with the technical specifications.

Aluminum, copper, steel differ in hardness, to varying degrees they are subject to diffusion, oxidation rates and other physical and chemical processes. The only way that can be called almost universal is drilling. This process can be carried out in 3 ways, which in most cases depends on how close the fastening metal is to the fastened elements.

How to remove a rivet

The pull rivet is somewhat easier to remove. When dismantling it, it is necessary to remove the ring formed during fastening. If possible, when compressing the material of construction, insert a saw blade for metal, the fastener can be cut off, and the pin removed by pulling out the rod. If there is no way to cut or cut, there is always a chance to remove the mount using the first method - to drill.

A hidden fastener can only be removed by drilling, and exhaust heads can be knocked down with a hammer if the strength of the material fastened by them is greater than that of the fastener itself. Provided that using this method of dismantling, there is no certainty of 100% safety for your own hands and the appearance of the material, it is better to refuse it.