When to open roses in spring after winter - how to save the affected plants. When should roses be opened after winter? Opening in Spring How to open roses after winter

The question of when to open roses after winter is asked not only by young gardeners, but also by experienced professionals. The fact is that if you are late with this process, then the bushes can simply die. Wintering for roses is a stressful business, therefore, the gardener must make every effort to bring his flowers out of stress into a new bright spring.

Even if everything was done correctly before the onset of winter and the roses were covered, then the shoots after removing the shelter will be green and, at first glance, healthy. But often after a while the bushes turn black, and the roses simply die. What is the reason? The responsible period that determines the healthy appearance of roses is, of course, spring. If the film is not removed in time, then the roses will begin to rot, and this is precisely the reason for their frequent death. It is important not to be late in order to remove the shelter in time!

Where to start

The described type of flower is extremely sensitive to the first spring temperature increase. Warm days have come and this is a signal for the bushes that the dormant period has ended and you need to wake up to life again. Immediately, the kidneys begin to swell. But in the frozen ground, which is also under cover, the roots simply do not work. By the way, if you are going to plant tomatoes this year, you only need to choose.

Full incomplete opening

In March, the top of the shelters can begin to gradually expose. This is done already in those days when the first snow melts. In this form, leave the roses until the end of March. With the onset of the second month of spring, you can safely remove all shelters. Moreover, this should be done at the very beginning of April. If the weather this year pleases with good fine days, then you can completely remove the shelter already at.

But, after the bushes have ventilated, they will have to be closed again for a while. Again, only the top is left: a hole for ventilation. You can already put a little sawdust, sand down with a bush, loosen the ground, which has compacted after winter. Now, to provide even more natural ventilation, you can also open the bushes from below.

When to take cover

Complete thawing of the soil is a signal that roses can be opened on an ongoing basis. Warm weather has set in, and there is no more frost at night? It's time to fully open your roses. A cloudy day is best for removing shelter from roses: in such a situation it will be possible to avoid sunburn roots and shoots. After a long stay in a humid environment, it will be easier for roses to adapt through a transitional period.

Step by step film removal from rose bushes:
1. We open only the ends;
2. The next day, the north and sides open;
3. The next day, you can completely remove the shelter. It is best to cover the roots with spruce branches if the weather is very sunny;

Treatment of roses in spring

If the time to open roses in the spring was missed or some problems occurred with the flowers during the wintering period, it will still be possible to fix everything. It will be necessary to rake the ground from the bushes during the thawing period of the earth (carefully so as not to damage the bark). Next, free the grafting site from the ground and gently wipe it with a cloth. It will be necessary to moisten a cloth in a solution of potassium permanganate (make a solution of a bright pinkish hue). For wetting, you can even use a brush, because the procedure should be carried out very carefully.

If there are frost holes on the shoots, then such shoots will need to be removed. This trouble occurs due to the fact that water, getting into cracks and scratches on the bark, freezes. If it is impossible to remove the shoot, then the crack must be washed with a solution of potassium permanganate, and then a strip of medical plaster should be applied. Otherwise, these cracks will become a source of infection, which can lead to the death of the bush.

After removing the shelter from the roses, mold is sometimes found on the bush. Often this phenomenon is observed if, when preparing the bushes for winter, they were not additionally treated with a solution iron sulphate. The mold is removed, and the shoots are washed using the same solution of potassium permanganate.

The time to remove the shelter from roses in the spring must be chosen very carefully. Affects the temperature day and night, the weather outside. It is better to remove the film a little earlier than to delay with this process. After removing the film, you will need to carefully examine the plants. If there are any scratches, mold or other unpleasant phenomena on the shoots, then they should be promptly disposed of. In many cases, washing the affected areas with a solution of potassium permanganate will help.

Last year, my roses were green and looked perfectly healthy right after removing the covers. Suddenly, on some shoots appeared dark spots that grew right before our eyes. Eventually these branches died. What can be done to prevent this from happening again?

N. Panich, Luga

It sounds like you've encountered a blight infection, a disease that can cause serious damage to roses. Therefore, immediately after removing the shelters, inspect all the shoots, paying attention Special attention places where the leaf is attached to the branch. It is there that the first signs of the disease appear - dark spots, which later acquire a red-burgundy hue and grow rapidly. "Ringed" branches die. Infectious burn differs from other fungal diseases in the absence of a pronounced boundary between living and dead tissue.

Having found a stain, it is necessary to immediately cut the stem below the lesion, capturing healthy tissue. If the focus is small, then you can cut out only the affected part and process this place systemic fungicide, penetrating into plant tissues, or a contact-systemic drug (contact, i.e., fungicides acting only on the surface are ineffective).

If the lesions are massive, it is necessary to spray all roses with a systemic preparation. Processing will help protect them from other diseases as well.

* Chemical fungicides.

Contact: Bordeaux liquid, Abiga-Peak, Thiovit jet.

Systemic: Topaz, Skor, Rayok, Previkur Energy.

Contact-systemic action: Oxyhom, Ordan, Profit gold, Ridomil gold.

Infectious burn. Photo: AIF / Elena Kozhina

without haste

When is the best time to remove covers from roses? Some advise doing this immediately after the snow melts, others - to wait for real heat. Who is right?

O. Barmina, Murom

In general, when it comes to opening roses, it makes sense to be guided by the rule: it is better to overexpose than underexpose. Excessive haste can lead to the drying up of the above-ground part of the bushes, since the root system is not yet working. As a result, "tops" often die.

The “signal” for action can be the moment when the soil has not only thawed, but has already managed to dry out a little and become loose. At the same time, the night temperature should consistently exceed 0 ˚С. I usually open roses during the May holidays.

It is better to take shelters in cloudy weather. Unfortunately, summer residents who come to the garden only for the weekend do not always succeed in waiting for this. In this case, try to avoid bright sun. You can remove the shelter in the late afternoon, when it gets cooler, and leave the roses open at night.

By the way, even before removing the shelters, some gardeners pre-open them and air the roses. I do not do this, because I use non-woven material with a density of 60 g / m² (in 2 layers) - it "breathes". But if you are using film for cover, it makes sense.

Not all roses can survive the winter, sometimes, even if all the rules are followed, it turns out that some plant has suffered. It's a shame what to do ... Of course, not everything is lost, there is still a chance to go out and save the rose. Today we’ll talk about when to open roses in spring after wintering, as well as how to save roses from dampening.

It would seem that she did everything according to the instructions: she covered her roses, the plants overwintered, in the spring she checked the shoots - green, but then they darkened and died ... What went wrong?

When to open roses in spring

In the spring it is important not to miss the moment when to remove winter shelters from rose bushes. The main reason for the death of roses in spring is damping off. Winter is over, the roses have overwintered, and then they are steamed. Try not to let this happen! The most optimal shelter method is air-dry, consider this when sheltering your landings.

How to save roses from decay

Rose bushes are very sensitive and react to warming quite vividly. As soon as warm days set in, the plants come out of winter hibernation: the buds begin to swell, although the roots in the ground have not yet woken up.

How to save roses from decay

I advise covering roses nonwoven fabric , agrofibre, which both breathes and repels excess sunlight, thanks to white color. Excessive heat under such a canvas does not accumulate and this has a very positive effect on the condition of the shoots of roses.

During heavy snowmelt make sure that melt water does not stagnate under the roses. Try to make drainage grooves, divert water from plantings. Roots don't need that much moisture. On particularly warm days, raise the edges of the shelters and provide ventilation for the shelter.

When to uncover roses

When to remove shelters from roses in spring

Everyone talks about how important it is to remove shelters from roses in time. But what does time mean for your area? Focus on soil conditions. If it has thawed on the bayonet of a shovel, that is, the roots are already freely receiving food and come to life, you can remove the insulation.

If you open the roses early, then you can freeze the buds of a plant, and if you are late with the removal of shelters, then your roses may be worn out. However, this will not happen if you cover them with agrofibre.

Beautiful bush of remontant roses

It is also remarkable that you can remove it layer by layer, leaving one layer in the finale, which will, like a shirt, simply save daytime warmth on cool spring nights. And during the day it will protect the overwintered bark from sunburn at first. Another plus is protection against overdrying.

Roses on the balcony if your roses hibernated on the balcony, or you grow them there, then you need to remove the shelter a little later, since cold winds can overcool the plants, because the roses are far from the ground. Therefore, balcony roses should stay covered longer. If your balcony is glazed, then roses should be opened for the day, and covered in the evening during periods of unstable temperatures.

Gradual removal of shelters from roses

If your shelters are made in traditional style, from roofing material or thick paper, then in this case you will need gradually remove the shelter from your roses.

At the first stage, cut holes on both sides, allow outdoor air to circulate freely inside. Let the plant get used to the temperature for a day environment.

At the second stage, we completely free ourselves from tight shelter roses, but instead of it we definitely do shading! It can be from a single layer of paper, fabric, or covering material.

After disclosure winter clothes roses should check for dried shoots, broken and frozen branches. It is better to immediately cut them with secateurs. We also remove fallen leaves.

Rose grafting site treatment

After the earth has completely thawed, rake off excess soil from rose bushes if you spud them in the fall. Some spud with foliage, straw and the like, all this should be removed from the shoots, carefully, trying not to damage the stem of the rose itself.

Every spring the grafting site, or the neck of the rose bush, must be thoroughly washed 1% solution of copper sulphate to prevent disease and the development of fungal infections.

Instead of vitriol Potassium permanganate solution can be used(dilute to bright pink color). The procedure is best done with a hard brush for painting, I take a width of 2 cm.

Treatment of frostbites in roses

If you have covered roses since autumn in wet weather, and then immediately hit frosts, then on the trunks, in places where water accumulates, freezers can be found. All this is visible in the spring visual inspection shoots.

If the damage to the bark is small, then the wound can be healed, and if it is large and located close to the grafting zone, then it is better to remove such an escape. Always look at the situation.

The crack should be treated with a one percent solution of copper sulphate, or, as already mentioned, with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, using a brush, and then cover the wound with garden pitch.

Be sure to cover up all fresh cracks in the bark, this will help prevent the appearance of a focus of infection with fungal diseases. Less fungus and mold spores - healthier your roses!

Removing mold on roses

If your shelter was very humid, then after removing it you can find pockets of mold that affected the shoots. It's not so scary, everything can be washed off and dried.

Processing is carried out with the same composition - one percent copper sulphate and a solution of potassium permanganate. For the future, so that mold does not appear, process the shoots in the fall, before covering with the same composition.

We treat decay in roses

Ground cover and climbing roses . They most often hide on the ground, they do not have access to air, but there is always excess moisture. hence the frequent lesions with infectious burns from excess moisture. It's like diaper rash in a child. And it needs to be treated!

You can identify such diaper rash by reddish, ringing spots on the shoot.. They can be dark in the center, you can't go wrong once you see them. As a rule, areas with diaper rash are cut out if they are large.

And if the shoots are slightly affected and there is a chance to save the twig, then the site of the lesion is cleaned to healthy wood, and then, cover with garden pitch.

Spring pruning roses

Rose pruning scheme

After the removal of all shelters, when the truly spring weather is already established, pruning rose bushes according to the rules, by variety. After pruning, the plants are sprayed with a one percent solution of copper sulfate and watered abundantly, under the root. warm water to get it to work root system. Also, roses should be fed and spud.

Video - caring for roses after winter

In addition, I suggest watching a video clip that tells and shows what activities should be done with roses after winter.

The sun's light is getting brighter, and the tits are merrily hatching. coltsfoot blossoms on the thawed hillocks.

Snowdrops bloomed on the first thawed patches. in a word, spring has come - a hot time for gardeners.

As agreed, let's talk about how and when to open our favorite roses

It's time my friend, it's time

If you have spent the whole winter winter apartments, then now is the time to visit the site, check the roses, which, like prisoners in a dungeon, are waiting for their release. My fellow gardeners often ask me when to open them? I do not have a ready answer to this, everything depends on the heavenly office. It's no secret that our springs have become protracted, April is often colder than March. You have to look at the weather. Even if the snow has melted, the threat of return frosts is great.

In addition, the earth must thaw completely, then the roots of the plants will work. Otherwise, roses may die from the withering action of the wind and sunburn.

Some gardeners shed soil around roses to speed up the thawing process. hot water. Of course, you can run around the site with a kettle if you have about a dozen roses, and if you have a hundred and fifty, like mine, then this is not possible. Therefore, I rely on the forces of nature and the inevitability of the onset of heat.

One thing I know for sure - you should not rush to open roses. Unless you open the ends of the shelters to ventilate them. If your roses hibernated under lutrasil, which allows light and air to pass through, they can be there even until the May holidays. Another thing is if they begin to bloom leaves in such a shelter (in warmth and in the sun), then we must urgently open it! This means that the earth has finally thawed and the roots of the plants have begun to work. In the meantime, the ground is frozen, you should not open it. Plants pampered after winter can turn black from the sun and wind.

The main principle is gradualness. You can first open, as already mentioned, the ends, then remove one layer of shelter, providing better air access. And only a few days later, choosing cloudy weather (this is important!), Remove the shelter completely. But do not remove the fabric completely, it may still be needed if the icy breath of the north suddenly breaks into our latitudes again.

Next, the roses must be untied so that they come to their senses a little, “straighten their backs and shoulders.” Then conduct an inspection - check the condition of your favorites, assess the degree of damage and the results of wintering. Branches that have sprung up and are affected by an infectious burn must be cut out immediately. This should be done without regret. Experience has shown that there will be no sense from damaged shoots, even if they have a relatively lively appearance. They will develop with difficulty, they are unlikely to bloom, they will only draw strength from the rose. And do not try, as sometimes advised in manuals, to treat them with brilliant green, some ointments, applying a plantain leaf, etc. All this, as they say, is a waste of time.

By ridding the plant of diseased shoots, you make room for the growth of new ones. After all, a rose, like no other shrub (and this is a shrub!), Has an amazing regenerative ability. This means that she can give new shoots, each time rejuvenated and reborn, like a phoenix bird. For the same reason, it is not worth uprooting those specimens that do not show signs of life after wintering. Wait until mid June. In my practice, there were cases when I, inconsolable from an untimely loss, received a reward for patience. The dead roses were reborn, delighting me with young shoots.

The art of pruning roses in spring

Now a little about spring pruning and its timing. I have found that it is much more effective to prune roses at the stage when their leaves are already beginning to bloom. In this case, strong kidneys are clearly visible, it is on them that you need to cut, cutting off everything that is on top. It is necessary to cut at an angle of 45 ° to the outer kidney. A huge amount of literature has been published on the topic of pruning roses. But every time the approach should be individual, depending on the group to which this or that rose belongs, its age, health and condition.

A gardener cutting roses must first of all have a sharp pruner and firm hand. A well-sharpened tool will not chew the stems, the cut will remain clean. And the hand must be firm, because, without flinching, it is necessary to remove all unnecessary. You should not lament over each branch, naively believing that they all mean something to the plant. The rose gives a lot of thin and unproductive shoots, that is, those that will never bloom. But at the same time, they take away extra strength from the bush. Therefore, I am guided by the “pencil rule”, that is, I cut out absolutely all the branches, especially at the bottom of the bush, which are thinner than a pencil.

General rules for spring pruning

Spring pruning for groups of roses varies greatly.

Hybrid tea and floribundas have already been pruned in the fall for shelter, so they only spend sanitary pruning. park roses do not cut at all, as well as ground cover. At climbing ramblers that bloom once a summer, remove only the frozen tops. They are pruned in the summer after flowering, removing the oldest shoots per ring, leaving only 5-7 branches of a relatively young age.

The so-called semi-climbers are recommended to be shortened by 1/3 to stimulate the growth of new young shoots and more abundant flowering. Do not try to re-educate them - it must be admitted that you will never get a lush, spreading bush from a climber.

Radical pruning harms them, they will come to their senses until mid-summer, releasing new shoots and be late with flowering. If you wish abundant flowering, try to bend them to a horizontal position.

With some it will not be possible to do this, since many varieties of this group have rather stiff, stiff stems. Of them better try to make a kind of " standard rose»: having removed everything superfluous from below, leave only a clean trunk topped with a lush flowering cap. Those shoots that somehow bend, it is better to wrap around the support - arches, obelisks, columns. In this case, they will release a lot of additional branches, each of which will bloom!

As for the "Englishwomen", it is better not to subject young two-three-year-old specimens to strong pruning, so they will bloom faster and will not waste energy on the formation of a new growth. But the bushes are more middle age can be cut to 1/3 or even half. This is recommended to be done at least in order to stimulate the growth of new, so-called basal, shoots - the most valuable ones that determine the skeleton of the bush.

Competent pruning of roses, strictly carried out from year to year, will allow you to form a harmonious and beautiful bush, resembling a bowl in shape, where the branches do not compete with each other for the sun's rays, and the flowers are located along the periphery of the crown.

Safety

Pruning roses is a traumatic event. No matter how hard you try, you'll get scratched. And the resulting wounds will have to heal until mid-June.

Therefore, special equipment is needed - clothes made of dense, tear-resistant material (roses cling tightly, you won’t get out!) And special gloves, preferably made of thick suede.

Greetings, friends! The rose is the recognized queen of flowers and requires a special, "royal" treatment. It does not tolerate prolonged frosts, so the bushes are covered for the winter, and opened back in the spring. And the main thing is to do it on time, since an untimely opening can destroy even a successfully overwintered plant. In spring, an ambient temperature of -10 C can destroy a capricious plant.

The main thing is on time

When to open roses in spring? If the time has passed severe frosts and prolonged frosts, but the weather has not spoiled us yet with high daytime temperatures, which means it's time to open the rose. But, on the other hand, a sharp transition from high humidity when sheltered to drying by the wind, from low temperatures at night to high daylight hours can negatively affect roses. Therefore, roses after winter should be opened gradually. If the flowers for the winter were covered only with spruce branches and lutrasil (covering material), then you can take your time with the opening of roses and open them completely when the earth thaws.

Usually roses open from mid-April to early May, and in more northern regions - from early May to early June. By this time, the earth should already thaw, and this will be a signal to full opening these plants.

• If you covered roses for the winter with dry leaves, small branches or spruce branches, remove them gradually, as the soil thaws.

The first step is to remove some of the snow from the flower area, then make small grooves to drain the melt water to avoid flooding.

• Standard young roses, bent down for the winter, after removing the winter "shelter" are left in a bent state for a couple of days, and only after the roses get stronger, they carefully raise them and fix them to the pegs.
• Roses growing in tubs can be taken out to a bright (not sunny) place without fear. But if the threat of frost has not yet disappeared, then it is better to bring them indoors at night.

After the remaining snow melts on its own, gently loosen the ground slightly (to the depth of thawing), thereby allowing the plant to “breathe”.

As soon as the threat of a return of cold weather has passed, the roses can be completely rescued from the shelter. It is best to do this in the evening, and if the weather is cloudy, you can do it during the day.

And then what?

• Remove the excess layer of earth or distribute it evenly in the rose garden. Those. rake the land from the plants with which they were heaped up for the winter and level it.

• When the roses are fully open, you need to cut off all the "non-living" parts of the plant. As well as diseased parts of the plant, in order to prevent the further spread of fungal diseases.
• Spring pruning roses. Bushes that gave abundant growth last summer are cut higher, leaving a large number of kidneys, and poorly developing - short.
• Spray plants to prevent diseases. Process 1% blue vitriol(0.1 kg per 10 liters of water) or a solution of bright pink potassium permanganate, using a brush or soft brush. If mold is found on the plant, then it must be removed before processing with these agents.
• If the roses, after opening, were in dry soil, it is necessary to water it.
• Make a feed.

If the roses are frozen

Sometimes, when you open roses, you can see that some of the plants are very cold, which does not mean at all that the bushes have died. Cold-resistant varieties have a sufficient number of "sleeping" buds in stock, from which the rose can resume its growth. Frozen bushes during the winter should be cut short and kept moist.