Fastening the landing gear to an aircraft model. Homemade chassis

Ask any boy building his first schematic model what he dreams of. Almost certainly he will answer - about a copy. Yes, this is understandable. After all, it is not in vain that a copy model is considered one of the most interesting and complex classes of aviation modeling. Building copies, aircraft modelers get acquainted with the technical achievements of aviation, master the perfect methods of using the tool.

Many letters come to the editorial office with a request to tell about the most simple and affordable option cleaning and releasing the chassis on copy models. We offer a scheme developed in the aircraft modeling circle of the KYUT heavy machine tool plant in the city of Kolomna. It was made on a copy of the An-24 aircraft. Its designer Yuri Shabalin became the champion of the Moscow region and silver medalist All-Russian competitions for schoolchildren in 1974.

The following requirements are imposed on the mechanism for retracting and releasing the landing gear on a copy model: the design must be simple and reliable in operation, it must contain as few parts as possible, be light in weight, and allow quick replacement of failed parts during operation. and check them during preventive examinations. With these requirements in mind, we built the model.

The operation of the mechanism for cleaning and releasing the landing gear is carried out as follows: the microelectric motor DP-10 transmits rotation to the drum through the gearbox. The cable is attached at one end to the lower part of the upper brace, at the other end to the drum. Winding on the drum, it pulls the lower part of the upper brace, which is pivotally connected to the lower one, and therefore drags the main rack along with it. The main landing gear is held in the retracted position by a taut cable. The intermediate oscillating block guides the rope and reduces friction during movement. The upper brace, describing the arc, thereby changes the angle of the cleaning cable in the interval from its attachment point in the upper brace to the movable block. And since the intermediate block is in the bearings, it moves behind the cable, holding it in the groove and directing it into the connecting tube leading to the working drum.

1 - wheel; 2 - landing gear; 3 - lower eye; 4 - lower brace; 5 - upper brace; 6 - retaining spring; 7 - axis of the retaining spring; 8 - rear strut mounting bracket; 9 - rack hinge bracket; 10 - bracket mounting bolts; 11 - axis of rotation of the rack; 12- cotter pin; 13 - washer; 14 - block roller; 15- plain bearing; 16 - block body; 17 - stoic cleaning cable, 18 - block.

1- wheel; 2 - stoic; 3 - rack mounting bracket; 4 - lock latch; 5 - intermediate block; 6 - cleaning cable 7. - rack suspension axis; 8 cotter pin; 9 - return spring; 10 - latch retaining spring; 11-axis hinge of the retaining spring.

The release of the main landing gear (Fig. 1) is carried out in the opposite direction. By loosening the tension of the cable, the steak leaves the engine nacelle with the help of a return spring and is placed on the stop.

Cleaning the front steak (Fig. 2) of the chassis is as follows.

The cable at one end is rigidly fixed to the drum of the main rack. Pulling on the gear drum, it removes the lock latch from the groove (rack stop) and removes the rack through the intermediate block.

The release of the front pillar occurs in the opposite direction. Under the action of the return spring, it comes out, weakening the tension of the cable. The spring inserts the latch of the drum into its slot.

All parts of the landing gear, except for axles and springs, are made of D-16T duralumin.

When assembling and adjusting the landing gear, you need to achieve alignment and free movement all hinged joints.

The axles of the main parts of the landing gear can be quickly disassembled and troubleshooted.

The control mechanism (Fig. 3) is located on the center section at the junction of the wing with the fuselage. It is better to make it removable so that it can be modified or repaired.

The mechanism is electrically controlled, it is carried out by a switch. The electric mechanism is powered by two 3336L batteries connected in series. They are near the pilot in the center of the circle. The current is transmitted through a cable made of two PELSHO-0.25 wires and suspended from the cords.

The wiring diagram for controlling the retracting mechanism and retracting the landing gear of the model-copy of the An-24 aircraft is shown in Figure 4.

V. KLIMCHENKO, Y. SHABALIN

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Nowadays it's hard to surprise someone new model car, but vehicle, made by hand, has always attracted attention and excitement. A person who makes a car with his own hands expects two scenarios. The first is admiration for the creation, and the second is the smile of others at the sight of the invention. If you figure it out, then there is nothing complicated in assembling a car with your own hand. From a self-taught engineer, you only need to know the design of the car and the basic properties of its parts.

Historical facts

The beginning of the construction of cars was preceded by some historical conditions. During the existence of the union, mass production of cars was carried out. They could not meet the individual needs of the consumer. That is why self-taught inventors began to look for ways out of this situation and did this by designing homemade cars.

In order to make one car with your own hands, three non-working ones were required, from which all the necessary spare parts were removed. If we take into account people living in remote villages, they most often improved various bodies, thereby increasing their capacity. Cars began to appear that had high cross-country ability and could even overcome water. In a word, all forces were thrown to simplify life.

A separate category of people gave great importance the appearance of the car, and not just its technical properties. In addition to beautiful cars, sports cars were made that were not much inferior to factory copies. All these inventions not only surprised others, but also became full-fledged road users.

At times Soviet Union there were no specific restrictions on homemade vehicles. Prohibitions appeared in the 80s. They concerned only certain parameters and technical characteristics of the car. But most people could get around them by registering one vehicle with the appropriate authorities under the guise of a completely different one.

What you need to assemble a car

To proceed directly to the assembly process itself, you need to think through everything in detail. You need to clearly understand how to make the future car, and what technical specifications he must have. First you need to determine for what purposes the car will be used, and then implement the idea. If you need a frank workhorse, then in order to make it yourself, you will need special materials and details. It is also important to make the body and frame of the car as resistant to stress as possible. When a car is made only for driving, the question is only in its appearance.

How to make a car with my own hands for a child, you can find out from the following video:

How to make drawings

You should not trust your head and imagination, it would be better and more correct to think about what exactly the car should be. Then transfer all available considerations to paper. Then it is possible to correct something and as a result, a drawn copy of the future car will appear. Sometimes, for complete certainty, two drawings are made. The first one shows appearance car, and on the second a more detailed image of the main parts in detail. Before drawing, you need to prepare everything necessary tools, that is, a pencil, eraser, drawing paper and a ruler.

Nowadays, there is no need to draw a picture for a long time with a regular pencil. To facilitate this task, there are special programs that have wide capabilities and with their help you can make any drawing.

Advice! If there aren't any engineering programs, then the usual test will help in this situation word editor.

At great desire you can make any car with your own hands. If there are no own considerations, then ready-made ideas and drawings can be borrowed. This is possible because most people involved in the creation of homemade cars do not hide their ideas, but, on the contrary, present them to the public.

kit-cars

In the vast countries of Europe and America widespread reached the so-called "kit-cars". So what is it? This is a certain number of different parts with which you can make a car with your own hands. Kit cars have become so popular that there are many variants of kit cars that allow you to fold any car model you want. The main difficulty is not in the assembly, but in the registration of the car obtained as a result of the assembly.

To fully work with a kit car, you must have a spacious garage. In addition, you need tool kits and knowledge. If you do not have certain skills, then the work will not give the desired result. If the work is done with the help of assistants, the assembly process will be faster and more fruitful.

This kit includes everything from small screws and instructions to large parts. For full-fledged work, there should not be serious difficulties. It should be noted that the instruction does not have a printed form, but is presented by a video master class, where everything is considered to the smallest detail.

It is very important to assemble the car correctly. This is necessary in order for the creation to meet all the standards and norms prescribed in regulations traffic police. Since non-compliance with the points leads to problems with registering the vehicle with the relevant authorities.

Advice! If there is such an opportunity, then you can consult with experts in this field.

You can learn more about what kit cars are and how to make them in the following video:

Building a car with scrap materials

To make assembly as easy as possible homemade car, as a basis, you can take the base of any other car that is fully functioning. Best to take a budget option, since it is never known in which direction the experiments will lead. If there are old worn parts, then they must be replaced with serviceable ones. If possible, you can make parts with your own hands on lathes, but this is if you have professional skills.

First of all, you need to start assembling the car with the body, instruments and necessary interior parts. Modern inventors use fiberglass for the body, but before there was no such material, and plywood and tin material were used.

Attention! Fiberglass is a fairly elastic material, which allows you to implement any idea, even the most unusual and original.

The availability of materials, spare parts and other components makes it possible to design a car that, in terms of external parameters and appearance, will not be inferior to car models of the world's leading automakers. This requires ingenuity, good imagination and certain knowledge.

DIY supercar:

Building a car from fiberglass

Start assembling a car from fiberglass should be from the moment of choosing a suitable chassis. After that, the selection of the necessary units is carried out. Then it’s worth moving on to the layout of the cabin and mounting the seats. Upon completion of this, the chassis is strengthened. The frame must be very reliable and strong, since all the main parts of the car will be mounted on it. How more precisely the dimensions spatial frame, the better the parts fit together.

For the manufacture of the body is best to use fiberglass. But first you need to make a base, that is, a frame. Styrofoam sheets can be attached to the surface of the frame, as closely as possible corresponding to the available drawings. Then, if necessary, holes are cut out, and, if necessary, the parameters are adjusted. After that, fiberglass is attached to the surface of the foam, which is puttied and cleaned from above. It is not necessary to use foam plastic, any other material that has high level plasticity. Such material can be a continuous sheet of sculptural plasticine.

It should be noted that fiberglass tends to deform during operation. The reason is high temperatures. To maintain the shape of the structure, it is necessary to inner side strengthen the frame with pipes. All excess parts of the fiberglass must be removed, but this should be done after it is completely dry. If everything is done correctly and there are no other works regarding the design, you can proceed to the interior equipment and electronics fasteners.

If it is planned to re-design in the future, then a special matrix can be made. Thanks to her, the body manufacturing process will be faster and easier. The matrix is applicable not only to make a vehicle with your own hands from scratch, but also to improve the condition of your own car. For the manufacture of paraffin is taken. To get a smooth surface, you need to cover it with paint on top. This will increase the convenience of fastening parts for a new car body.

Attention! With the help of the matrix, the entire body is made completely. But there is an exception - this is the hood and doors.

Conclusion

In order to implement the existing idea and make a car with your own hands, there are a number of suitable options. All sorts of working details will be useful here.

With your own hands you can do not only a car, but also a larger and more powerful truck. In some countries, craftsmen manage to earn decent money on this. They make cars to order. in great demand cars with various original body parts are used.

How to make a Porsche with your own hands:

One of the necessary attributes for an aircraft model is the landing gear. In order to land and take off, to delight others with the realistic elements of the aircraft model, they can be the most different types, models and sizes. Everything your heart desires! Usual Criteria when choosing them, this is the weight of the model, the ground on which the flights will take place, and, of course, the similarity of appearance.

Retractable landing gear installation

The process of installing a chassis for a beginner can be challenging task. But if you look closely and understand the difficult moments, the work will go easily. Firstly, the ribs are attached to the leading edge of the wing, and this has its pros and cons. On the one hand, this layout forms a supporting surface when the chassis is retracted, and on the other hand, the total amount of space is reduced. In addition, there is an additional task of adjusting the position of the landing unit between the ribs at the landing gear attachment point. Here is a description of the process:

The attachment point is two rails between the landing ribs.

Install the landing assembly on the mounting rails between the landing ribs so that you can see which rib needs to be finished.

Make a groove on the rib so that the wheels can safely retract into the plane of the wing. After that, determine the angle of installation of the landing wheel.

Chassis should be mounted so that when viewed from above, it can be seen that they are tilted forward. In addition to this angle, it is also worth taking care of the angle in the transverse plane. The chassis must be strictly vertical, otherwise they may break.

Once an acceptable position is determined, mark and drill the mounting holes. Making sure that the wing and other ribs will not be damaged.

Immediately install the fixing screws into the holes.

Now that all mounting holes have been drilled, the shims should be installed, parallel to the ground with the chassis retracted and perpendicular when extended. The position of these spacers is also important, because if they are not positioned correctly, the assembly will experience increased stress during landing. With the help of a linden wedge, you can correctly adjust the release position.

Attach the landing gear to the bracket. On the reverse side, attach the washers and nylon lock, making sure the nut does not fall off. Because otherwise, it will be difficult to put it in place, and it can get into the chassis mechanism.

After adjusting the angle, glue the wedges in place with cyacrine. Turn the wing upside down and drill through the back side.

Manufacture of landing gates

The landing gear is hidden behind two doors. The inner leaf is hinged with a high torque micro motor that has enough force to open it. The outer flap is attached to the landing gear and moves with it. In order for the landing wheels to be released in right time serves as a sensor. With it, you can set the sequence of pulses, as well as the time delay between each opening and closing of the node. Here is a typical sequence of sash operation steps:

Opening the inner sash
Landing gear extension
Closing the inner sash
Opening the inner sash
Landing gear cleaning
Closing the inner sash

The outer flap must completely cover the post when it is retracted, and be shorter than the post so as not to hit the ground when the post is extended. Also, the flaps must have a sufficient margin in length on all sides so that in the event of a rattling and impact of the landing gear on the flaps, they do not damage the wing skin.

Cut out the outer and inner leaves of the gate from plywood, 3 mm thick. Install the sashes and hinges to the rib using CA glue.

Once both sashes are installed, sand their edges so that the inner sash overlaps the outer sash under the cut edge.

The inner sash should be made slightly shorter than the outer sash for their mutual overlap. As a result of all operations, you must ensure the necessary clearance and ease of opening. Also in the design it is necessary to provide for the operation of both landing gear doors from one servo drive. In general, two GWS servomotors can be used, one for each leaf. However, this is cumbersome and expensive. It is easier to put one engine, but with a high torque.

Install the hinges and inner doors: the hinges I used have a built-in control panel, which has the advantage of being small. However, a large amount of torque is required to open the flaps.

In order for the chassis not to hit the sash, gaskets are used. There is also an additional small rubber gasket to secure the landing wheel to the strut.

Drill a hole through the center rib to help the push rod connect the leaf and the servo.

Use zigzag push rods to make the servo connection more flexible and the push rod easily adjustable.

Finally use Neodymium magnet both at the ends of the inner sash and under it. The magnet can unload the servo when the landing gear is extended.

Production of bottom lining

Back wing skins can be more of a creative challenge for aircraft modellers than top wing skins. Indeed, in the lower part of the wing there are flaps, supports, as well as drilled holes under the installation of screws that hold the hinges.

Glue the 0.8 mm thick balsa sheets together as was done for the upper wing skins.

Starting at the center of the wing, cover the entire space inside the wing on top of the landing gear with skin. Pre-drill holes in the fender frame and run each of the wires through the holes.

Make sure you cut exactly where needed for the wires and tie rods.

Next, cut off the rest of the wing skin in place and start stickering it. It is best to glue from the beginning of the leading edge towards the trailing edge using CA glue. The edges in the places where the skins touch are made with a chamfer of 6 mm.

In my last diary (3 months ago) I promised to post a video with the buggy brought to mind) But as soon as I took it ...

I realized that the revision will be difficult and meaningless!
Decided that it is better given the flaws of the machine to assemble a completely new, not like the last!

And then it started!
To begin with, I made drawings of new levers. This is the front left and right -
This is what they look like on the model. By the way, I forgot to say that I made all the levers from metal corners 25x25
And the frame is made of aluminum profile 50 by 20 MM and 60 cm long
Following the front suspension, I moved on to making the rear. Made a drawing from the beginning
The right and left lower arm are the same. Here they are on the model
In these photos, the suspension with the fists installed

They are made of a pipe 37 mm in diameter, the bearings entered them without difficulty, and in order for the bearings not to fall out of them, I cut the m4 internal thread in the fist for better fixation of the bearing!

This is a rear fist from the front one, it differs in that they have different attachments to the levers! The front fists are attached to the ball levers, which are made of a hex bolt to which I attached spherical shape
They twist into the fist itself from above and below
And here it is finished
Of course, I also cleaned it from the "snot" and painted it. And right now, the photos from which it will become clear how I made such ball-

Next to the bolt lies a "cracker"; it acts as a gasket; the ball itself is located in it
The cracker itself was made from a container of antifreeze. 8 squares were cut into 4 of them holes were made for the bolt. This is how you need to insert them into the lever and pull)
And then heat the lever itself and tighten the nuts. As I finished this procedure, I pulled out the sugar along with the bolt and dropped some oil there!

It seems to be talking about the suspension. Right now the photo - which shows how the parts for the suspension were made (levers, mounts for levers and fists)
These are the rear lower control arms.

The mounts for the levers are simply sawn off from a corner of 25x25 by 10 cm. The front and rear mounts are the same. And this is how the upper levers look, they must be made shorter than the lower ones, because if this is not done, the wheels will not stand straight.

OF COURSE, NOT COMPLETELY UNDERSTANDING. But then there will be photos during assembly, this lever will be clearly visible on them.

This I figured out at what distance to put the mounts.

I started the assembly from the front because I wanted to do front-wheel drive.

Following the front, I moved to the back.

These are the parts for the rear suspension. Next to the lower arms are the upper arms I mentioned.

And this is what the finished back looks like:

In order for the fasteners not to walk in different directions, they should be welded

I removed all the shoals of welding when I was sanding before painting.
Well, this is how the chassis looks in the assembled state))
In the photo it looks like a limousine))) but it is not.

It's the helmsman's turn

and began preparing parts already for the drive

Bones made by myself

They are made from a nail)) 300 x8 mm after they were made they were hardened

This is how they looked after hardening.
When everything was ready, I started the assembly

Then the "haemorrhoids" began - when I installed everything, when turning the wheels, either they did not turn or the bones fell out. I was soaring with her but could not understand what was the matter
After tormenting myself for 2 days, I decided to make REAR-wheel drive instead of front-wheel drive
There was nothing difficult in this, I just rearranged the stars from front to back

After I changed the drive everything went like clockwork))

The engine was fixed in three places, two of which are visible in the photo
This is one mount in the crankcase for oil and two on the opposite side.

After changing the drive, I had a place to install my servo with a force of 33 kg))

It's time to install the brake and throttle servos

Here is the mechanism responsible for stopping the model

Well, one of the most important details is the tank, it is located behind the model
Here you can see how the front suspension works in order for the suspension to be more rigid and similar to the rear - I tightened the springs

Rear-

old steering wheel

Ball work -

This is how she rides
) The video is short because when she drove into a snowdrift and began to slip, she bent the axle on which the cups stand (((I THOUGHT I THOUGHT AND UNDERSTOOD THAT IT WOULD BE HARD WITHOUT DIFF

And I thought to buy this one, I think he can handle it !!

I think it will be interesting who inspired me to do this))) true four-wheel drive)) And thanks to his advice, I brought it to mind!!

While I am saving money for it, I decided to write an article. Since there will be no changes after installing the diff in the design of the car !!

If something is not clear or you have questions - do not hesitate to ask.
Thanks to everyone who read my article to the end!!

Here comes autumn. This summer has flown by so quickly. I never went to the lake (and I even dreamed about it a couple of times) ... Well, that's okay. Let's talk about what interesting things happened this summer. Firstly, after an embarrassing accident, I revived my heavy transporter by supplying him with a semi-copy steering rack. Here I will tell about it.

Always wanted to do something similar. You can of course buy turnkey solution. For example, here's a stand. Or even a whole set. But, unfortunately, my budget is now very limited. This is firstly, and secondly and thirdly - I still wanted to make it not so difficult to manufacture do-it-yourself semi-copy steering rack for an aircraft model.

How to make a do-it-yourself semi-copy steering rack with spring damping

So what you need:

We drill holes in a tube of a smaller diameter (they are already drilled in the photo above). The distance depends on the diameter of the wheels. Great accuracy is not needed - the proportions in the photograph will suffice. The holes must be drilled right through the center of the tube. Moreover, the hole that is further from the edge - try to drill under the thinnest bolt you find (for example, under 2mm). What for? And then, that the larger the diameter of the hole, the lower the strength of the tube in this place.

We do not touch a tube of a larger diameter now at all.

We bend the collar from an aluminum strip and put it on the tube. Actually, here's a group photo.
Hmmm .. and you know what I thought now? I think that the hole in the tube for attaching this node in the photo above does not need to be drilled. But then you need to securely fix this knot on the tube in another way. Well, for example. put on glue. Advantages of refusing a hole - the strength of the tube is not reduced. Yes, but I digress.

After such an attachment, the rocking chair from the servo must be wound with a strong thread and the thread should be smeared with superglue. We get a very strong monolithic knot. Yes, I was thinking that maybe it looks very scary. Well, yes. It's true - it's scary, but it's generally impromptu ... just played. The next rack (and I liked these racks!) I will do more carefully. There is also a plan "B" - get rich and buy ready-made.

Assembling the rack

Between the plywood in the place where the wheels are attached - we give some kind of spacer, as thick as the diameter of the rack. The spring for the steering shock-absorbing strut must be selected sufficiently rigid.

Next, you need to deal with a larger diameter tube. I didn’t bother ... I have a transport plane, and so it’s all inside mounting foam filled. So I screwed a piece of wood to the tube, stuffed it inside the fuselage and filled it with foam.
I think this steering column with shock absorption without problems it will be possible to attach to the plywood (balsa) frame in a less radical way. Well, for aircraft models from the ceiling, it will be necessary to think over reinforcements for a larger diameter tube.