The connection is a straight tenon groove on a drilling machine. How to make a simple tenon with a hand router

So that such a connection is of high quality and lasts a long time. The appearance of a spike is considered one of key points in the history of the development of carpentry. They say that real master should be able to make such connections. Call them, if you like, the measure of the level carpentry. correctly and neatly fitted to the lugs, through-studs reinforced with dowels will be a clear indication of the quality of the product, which is unattainable with time-saving screws or lamellas. As the name implies, such a connection consists of a tenon passing through a hole (eyelet) of the adjacent part, and often the tenon is made slightly protruding from the other side. If you are ready to learn how to make these connections, try using them instead of lamellas.

Here's how it's done.

Define the dimensions of the connection elements. There are two types of thru-bus connections (figure below). In one case, both parts are of equal thickness, for example, an 18 mm thick crossbar has a spike that enters the post eyelet, which is also 18 mm thick.

Or the spike enters the eye of a part that has a large thickness, for example, connecting an 18 mm side of a table to a leg square section 38×38 mm. To connect parts of the same thickness, make spikes and lugs equal to one third of the thickness of the parts. For example, with a part thickness of 18 mm, the thickness of the spikes and the width of the lugs are 6 mm.

Brief advice! Absolute precision is not required. If the narrowest chisel is 6mm wide, mark the lugs a little wider to make them easier to trim.

If the thickness of the parts is different, the thickness of the spike and the width of the lug are chosen, as a rule, equal to one third of the thickness of the larger part. For example, to connect an 18mm side to a 38mm leg, make spikes about 12mm thick.

The length of the spike must be increased by about 0.5 mm if you are going to grind its end face flush with the surface of the counterpart after assembly. And if you want to decorate the protruding part of the spike with chamfers, its length should be 6 mm more than the width of the other part.

Start with eyes

The dimensions of the stud are easy to reduce according to the width and length of the lugs, so make the lugs first and fit the cleats to them. Mark the eye on two opposite sides of the workpiece and make sure that the marked rectangles are located at the same distance from the base faces. Fix a drill with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 mm less than the width of the eyelet into the chuck of the drilling machine, and set the stop on the machine table. Attach the workpiece with a clamp to the stop and make through holes (photo A).

A. Overlapping holes made with a center point drill form tabs on lug walls and rounded ends.

B. Glue a strip to the guide bar, the edge of which coincides with the marking line. The device helps to keep the chisel vertical and does not allow to go beyond the line.

Starting to clean the eyelet, first take a narrow chisel for cutting corners. Then make a guide jig for the chisel shown in the photo.

Pressing the plane of the chisel with a width of 25 mm or more to the jig, align the walls of the lug, cutting off the irregularities left from drilling (photo B), no more than half the depth. Move the conductor to the opposite edge and clean the second wall also to half the depth. Then turn the workpiece over and do the same on the other side.

Install a slotting disc as thick as possible into the saw and adjust its reach so that the tenon is a little thicker than required. Check the settings on the offcuts before processing the blanks.

Set the longitudinal (parallel) stop at a distance from the outer edge of the disk, equal to the length of the spike. Fix the pad on the transverse (corner) stop. Form the tenon in several passes with minimal overlap to reduce the amount of transverse marks on the cheeks of the tenon (photo C). Then place the workpiece on the edge to cut narrow cheeks.

C. Form the stud in a minimum number of passes so that no deep scratches are left on the protruding part of the stud.

D. Adjusting the thickness of the stud to the width of the lug with a chisel, remove the same amount of material from both cheeks. Check the result after every couple of passes.

For a precise fit on the cleat, remove the same amount of material from both cheeks using a rectangular cutter with only one side glued on. sandpaper N^ 100 or a small zentub (photo D). You should stop when the spike enters the eye with a slight effort of the hand.

Assemble the connection dry and with a sharp knife lightly mark the borders of the protruding part of the spike (photo E). Separate the parts and sand or file all the edges around the end of the 45° bevel, without going beyond the lines (photo F). To assemble the connection without getting the end of the stud dirty with glue, apply a little glue to its wide cheeks, insert the stud into the eye and squeeze the connection with a clamp until it dries completely.

E. A sharp, single-edged scriber will leave a fine line exactly at the edge of the lug.

F. The planer moves from the corners to the middle so that chips do not form. Then sand the bevels and the butt with #180 sandpaper.

The connection can then be mechanically strengthened. To do this, drill a 6mm hole, set back 25mm from the ends of the lug, through the spike. It is possible to make a through hole that goes to the other side only with absolute certainty that when the dowel is driven in, there will be no chips at the exit.

Make lead-in chamfers on the end of the 6mm rod and drive it into the hole, as shown in the photo at the beginning of the article.

Trim off the excess and smooth the surfaces with #180 sandpaper wrapped around a hard block.

A myriad of connections can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classifications of joinery-carpentry joints tend to vary considerably by country, region, and even school of woodworking. The craftsmanship lies in the fact that the precision of execution provides a correctly functioning connection that is able to withstand the loads intended for it.

Initial information

Connection categories

All connections (in carpentry they are called bindings) of wooden parts according to the scope can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):

• box;
• frame (frame);
• for splicing/splicing.

Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture drawers and arrangement of cabinets, frame are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing serves to obtain parts of an increased size in width / length.

Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.

Material preparation

Even planed lumber may need some preparation.

• Trim the material with a margin in width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut to length yet.
• Choose the best quality layer - the front side. Plane it along the entire length. Check with a straightedge.
  After the final alignment, make a mark on the front side with a pencil.
• Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge, as well as a square against the front side. Smooth out warp by planing. Mark a clean edge.
• Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan up to this risk. Check with a straightedge.
• Repeat the operation for the width.
• Now mark up the length and actual connections. Mark from the front side and a clean edge.

Lumber marking

Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for kerf width, planing thickness and joining.

All readings are taken from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. For ease of sorting and assembly, number the parts as they are manufactured on the front side so that, for example, it indicates that side 1 is connected to end 1.

When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there can be “right” and “left” parts.

Butt joints

These are the simplest of carpentry connections. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.

Assembly

The butt joint can be reinforced with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.

Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and join them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or corrugated key with outer side or a wooden block fixed from the inside.

Nail / dowel connections

Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear (shear) strength and, with adhesive, hold the assembly in place more securely. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), drawer joints (cabinets) or for splicing/joining (panels).

Assembling the dowel joint

1. Carefully cut out all the components to exactly the right dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the upright.

2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide bar may require more than two dowels.

Mark the center lines for the pins on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack using the square.

3. Lay the upright and bar face up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and label all connections if there are more than one pair of uprights and crossbars.

4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.

5. From the front side with a thickness gauge, draw a risk in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.

With a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the dowel holes.

6. An electric drill with a twist drill or hand drill with a spatula drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should be about 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole at the end should be about 3 times the depth. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, at this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.

7. Remove excess fibers from the top of the holes with a countersink. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the connection.

Nagels

The pin should have a longitudinal groove (now standard pins are made with longitudinal ribs), through which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then cut it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.

Use of pins for marking dowels

Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the pin holes. Align the crossbar with the markings of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The tips of the teats will make marks on the rack. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template out of a block of wood, drill holes in it, fix the template to the part and drill holes for the dowels through the holes in it.

Using a jig for a dowel connection

The metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.

conductor for nail joints

1. Mark center lines on the front of the material where the dowel holes are to be. Select a suitable drill guide bushing and insert it into the jig.

2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the slide bearing of the guide bush.

3. Install the jig on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.

4. Install the drilling depth gauge on the drill at the desired location.

Rallying

To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with the wide sides together, line up the ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines indicating the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the dowel holes.

The pin connection is neat and strong.

Flange / mortise connections

A notch, tie-in or groove connection is called a corner or middle connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.

Types of mortise / mortise connections

The main types of butt joints are the dark/semi-dark T-joint (often this term is replaced by the term flush/semi-hidden), which looks like a butt joint but is stronger, a corner joint (corner joint) in a quarter and a corner dark/semi-dark joint. A corner cut into a rebate and a corner cut into a rebate with darkness / semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.

Making a cut

1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines on both edges.

2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.

3. C-clamp the workpiece securely. Saw through the shoulders on the waste side of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.

Saw close to the marking line on the return side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.

4. Working with a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the flatness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use a primer.

With a chisel, remove the waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.

5. Check the fit, if the piece is too tight it may need to be trimmed. Check for perpendicularity.

6. The notch connection can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination of them:

• gluing and clamping until the adhesive sets;
• screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
• nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
• nailing obliquely through the corner.

The notch connection is strong enough

Tongue and groove connections

This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes of window openings.

Making a connection

1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front side.

2. Mark the second shoulder from the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.

3. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.

4. With a hacksaw with a butt, saw through the shoulders to the risks of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check for evenness.

5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark the line on back side and on the edges of the second part.

Adviсe:

• Tongue and groove type connections can be easily made with a router and a suitable guiding device - either for the groove only or for both the groove and rebate. Recommendations for correct work with a cutter, see p. 35.
• If the comb is too tight in the groove, trim the front (smooth) side of the comb or sand with sandpaper.

6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, make markings on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a butt. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the connection.

7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Half tree connections

Half-timber connections refer to frame connections, which are used to connect parts in layers or along an edge. The connection is made by taking the same amount of material from each part so that they are joined flush with each other.

Types of joins in half-tree

There are six main types of connections in the half-tree: transverse, angular, flush, angular mustache, dovetail and splicing.

Making a half-tree gusset

1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.

2. Set the thicknesser at half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.

3. Clamp the part in a vise at an angle of 45° (face vertically). Carefully cut along the grain close to the thicknesser line on the back side until the saw is diagonal. Flip the piece over and continue sawing gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw lines up with the shoulder line on both edges.

4. Remove the part from the vise and place it on the face. Press it firmly against the hutch and clamp it with a clamp.

5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all irregularities in the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cut.

6. Repeat the process on the second part.

7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.

8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.

Corner joints on the mustache

Corner joints on the mustache are made using the bevel of the ends and hide the end grain, and also aesthetically correspond more to the angular rotation of the decorative overlay.

Types of corner connections on the mustache

To perform bevel ends in corner connection the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.

Making a corner connection

1. Mark the length of the parts, keeping in mind that it should be measured on the long side, as the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.

2. Having decided on the length, mark the line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.

3. With a combination square, transfer the markup to all sides of the part.

4. When hand cutting use a miter box and a backed hacksaw or hand miter saw. Press the part firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are sawing freehand, be careful not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.

5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp planer, setting a small overhang of the knife.

6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first lay the parts on the face and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly show out of the bevels.

Start nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.

7. Apply glue and squeeze the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly - overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under hammer blows when driving nails, the part will move slightly. Surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the connection and sink the nail heads. Check squareness.

Drive the nails into the protruding piece first, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint into position.

8. If there is a small gap due to unevenness, smooth the connection on both sides with a round screwdriver rod. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.

9. To strengthen the corner connection, the mustache can be glued inside the corner wooden block if it is not visible. If important appearance, then the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or secured with veneer dowels. Pins or lamellas (standard flat studs) can be used inside the flat joints.

Splicing on a mustache and connection with cutting

Splicing on a mustache connects the ends of parts located on the same straight line, and a connection with a cut is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.

Mustache splicing

When splicing with a mustache, the parts are connected by the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.

Cutting connection

Connection with cutting (cutting, fitting) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during its fastening, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a corner joint.

1. Fix the first skirting board in place. Move the second plinth close to it, located along the wall.

Fasten the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it with the wall.

2. Swipe along the profiled surface of the fixed plinth with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed against it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.

With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, attached with an edge to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the line of the cut.

3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Complex profiles

Lay the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

Eyelet connections

Eyelet connections are used when it is required to join intersecting parts located "on the edge", either in a corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of a window frame or where a table leg meets a crossbar).

Eyelet Types

The most common types of eye connections are angle and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.

Making an eyelet connection

1. Mark out in the same way as for but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a spike.

2. Saw along the fibers to the line of the shoulders along the marking lines on the side of the waste. Cut out the shoulders with a hacksaw with a butt, and you get a spike.

3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel/grooving chisel or jigsaw.

4. Check the fit and fine-tune with a chisel if necessary. Apply adhesive to the joint surfaces. Check squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive cures.

Spike-to-socket connection

Stud-in-socket joints, or simply stud joints, are used when two pieces are joined at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in carpentry and is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.

Types of spike-to-socket connections

The two main types of stud joints are the usual stud-in-socket connection and the stepped stud-in-socket connection (semi-dark). The spike and socket are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is made on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps to prevent the thorn from turning out of the nest.

Standard spike-to-socket connection

1. Determine the connection position on both pieces and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the connection.

2. Pick up a chisel as close as possible in size to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thickness solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.

3. In the same way, mark the spike on the butt and both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.

4. Clamp a piece of wood secondary support in a vise high enough to attach the edge-on stand to it. Fasten the post to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the nest.

5. Cut out the nest with a chisel, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each of its ends so as not to damage the edges when sampling waste. Hold the chisel straight and parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the nest. Repeat from the other end.

6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel down. Select the waste by using the chisel as a lever. Going deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about half the thickness. Flip the part over and work the same way on the other side.

7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut off the allowance left earlier to the marking lines on each side.

8. Cut the spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a butt along the marking line from the side of the waste, and cut out the shoulders.

9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit snugly against the post, and the joint must be perpendicular and free from play.

10. Wedges can be inserted on both sides of the spike to secure. A gap for this is made in the socket. Working with a chisel from the outside of the nest, widen about two thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. Wedges are made with the same slope.

11. Apply glue and press firmly. Check squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.

Other spike connections

Stud joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or an overlay for glass or a panel (panel). When making a connection with a spike into a socket on a part with a seam, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the seam. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.

Studded joints for parts with overlays have a cut-off shoulder to match the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the counterpart.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:

• Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
• A hidden beveled spike in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
• With a spike in the dark (steps of a spike on its two sides) - for relatively wide parts, such as bottom trim(bar) doors.

All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the spike is not visible from the back of the rack. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.

Rallying

Wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. In addition, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for worktops or workbench covers, rallying is used.

Training

Before starting the actual rallying, you must do the following:

• If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage than tangential sawn timber. If boards of tangential sawing are used, then lay their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
• Try not to bundle materials with different ways sawing into one panel.
• In no case do not rally the boards from different breeds wood if not dried properly. They will shrink and crack.
• If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in one direction.
• Be sure to cut the material to size before stapling.
• Use only good quality glue.
• If the wood will be polished, adjust the texture or color.

Rallying for a smooth fugue

1. Lay all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at an angle along the joints.

2. Plan straight edges and check the fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.

3. Make sure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the connection will subsequently crack.

4. When planing short pieces, clamp the two right sides together in a vise and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when docking they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.

5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze with lapping to connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.

Other payment methods

Other fusion joints with different amplifications are prepared in the same way. These include:

• with pins (dowels);
• in a groove and a comb;
• in a quarter.

Bonding and clamping

Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.

Adhesives

The adhesive reinforces the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. Be sure to wear protective gloves when handling adhesives and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product of excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the planer knife and clog the abrasive of the skin.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly sticks together loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong bond and sticks to almost any porous surface. Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, and on large surfaces, dilute with water and apply paint roller. Since PVA glue has water base, then shrinks when set.

contact adhesive

Contact adhesive sticks together immediately after application and connection of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, join them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy is the strongest adhesive used in woodworking and the most expensive. It is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink on setting and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Water-resistant and bonds almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In the uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.

hot glue

Hot melt adhesive bonds almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun for gluing. Apply glue, join surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvents.

Clips for fixation

Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a spacer between the clamp and the product. wood waste to avoid denting from applied pressure.

Gluing and fixing technique

Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and overall dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the jaws/stops set apart to the desired distance.

Frame assembly

Spread the adhesive evenly with a brush on all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure assembly with clips. Compress the connections with even pressure. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.

Position the clamps as close as possible to the connection. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a slight but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust clamps if necessary.

If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, use a mallet to tap the protruding sections through a piece of wood as a spacer. If that doesn't work, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wood block across the frame.

In this article, we will introduce you to the process of cutting various joints. manual router, consider the manufacturing process of such additional devices to increase labor productivity as tenoning templates and a dovetail wood cutter.

How to make a tenon groove with a manual router

To make this spiked connection, we need the router itself and the desktop itself. To facilitate the process, you can make such an additional device as a conductor.

The procedure is as follows:

• • We install two rack limiters on the plywood sheet, cut out holes to fit the groove size for the drawstring and proleg. Rack stops must be fixed across the width of the router. They fix it across the working plane. To fix the longitudinal displacement, two other limiters are set at the ends of the intended location of the installation site of the carpentry machine.
  • To move the workpiece along the length, we mount a pair of bars to the tabletop that correspond to the dimensions of the workpiece.
  • We mark the axis and dimensions of the grooves. We install an additional device so that the markings on the workpiece and the conductor completely coincide.
  • It is necessary to set and fix the stop.
  • Fix the conductor with self-tapping screws to the bars.
  • It is necessary to take a straight cutter and set the depth of milling, taking into account the thickness of the manufactured jig. After that, it is necessary to fix the workpiece with a clamp and perform groove processing.

Getting Started to cutting spikes.

• With small volumes of production, it is best to do this on a circular.
• First you need to measure the depth of the groove, which will correspond to the length of the spike.
• We measure the resulting value on our workpiece. The length of the spike will be determined by the difference in values ​​- the width of the workpiece and the length of the groove, the height of the workpiece and the width of the groove, divided in half. The resulting material residues should be removed to obtain a spike.
• After that, you should set the size on the machine equal to the length of the groove, taking into account its width. The circular saw should be fixed at a level equal to ½ of the difference in the width of the workpiece and the length of the groove from the tabletop line. Make a couple of cuts along the length of the spike.
• We fix the saw blade at a height equal to ½ of the difference in the heights of the workpiece and the width of the groove from the tabletop line. Two cuts are made from the end face of the workpiece.
• We start cutting. For this, it is necessary to fix circular saw by the length of the spike, while the distance from the disk to the stop should correspond to a value equal to ½ of the difference in the width of the workpiece and the length of the groove. We make two cuts along the width of the product on both sides.
• Adjust the distance from the cutting disc to the stop. It should be equal to ½ of the difference between the heights of the workpiece and the width of the groove. We make two cuts. We round the edges of the resulting spike with a carpenter's knife and clean it with sandpaper.

Tenon cutter for milling cutter

Tenoning templates come in a wide variety of configurations. They serve to facilitate the work of cutting out joints such as tongue and groove, as well as to speed up the work. With their help, you can make frames, drawer connections, cutting out various connections for furniture. The size of the groove, as well as the evenness of its edges, will depend on the shape of the template tooth. To make a do-it-yourself stud cutter, you will need guides with which the studs will be milled. They should be mounted on two opposite sides of the case in a checkerboard pattern, placed equidistantly. Under these conditions, they are ideally suited to each other.

Cutter for wood "dovetail"

They are most often used in conjunction with milling machines and machines for making grooves in hard and soft wood. Manufactured from solid hard alloys.

Designed to work in tandem with cylindrical cutters.

How to choose a groove with a router

When doing this work, you need to know that its technique will directly depend on the location and size of the groove. If it is open, then your tool is attached to the tabletop, the workpiece is carried along the cutter. The accuracy will depend on the position of the bar and the height of the cutter. So that you don't have any flaws in the sampling process, always make a trial run on scrap wood. Sampling should be done in stages, you need to do this in several passes. After each pass of the cutting part of the router, in order to prevent its overheating, it is necessary to remove waste from the working surface of the countertop. This can be done using a template cut out of plywood, which should be walked over with a cutter with an upper bearing.

We hope that the information obtained while reading this article will be useful to you and useful for use in the household.