The size and quality of the strawberry crop depends on the variety of the berry and the observance of the agricultural technology for growing it on the site. Garden strawberries do not like to stay in one place for a long time, and starting from the third year, they stop the formation of a rosette, reduce the number of peduncles, which affects the yield. In order for the renewal of the berry plantation to be successful, it is important to know when it is better to transplant strawberries to a new place: in autumn or spring.

Why you need to transplant strawberries to a new place in the fall

The process of transplanting strawberries has two goals: renewal of plants and a change in the place where they are grown. The peculiarity of this perennial plant is that from the third year of vegetation, the outlet begins to age dramatically.

Gardeners love strawberries for active and long-term fruiting.

The change in the site for growing berries is due to the accumulation of pathogenic bacteria and fungi in the soil.

Autumn transplantation is preferable for the following reasons:

1. Well-rooted plants in late autumn lay many flower stalks during wintering, and in the next season they begin to actively bear fruit. During a spring transplant, the plant spends its energy on rooting, so it forms significantly fewer berries.
2. Autumn weather is preferable for better rooting of young rosettes. Plants take root quickly during cool autumn days. In addition, the bushes do not have to be watered often because the moisture in the soil lasts longer and the likelihood of rain in autumn is greater than in spring.
3. In autumn, there is a wide variety of planting material to choose from and its price is lower than during the spring rush of summer residents. If the gardener decides to change the variety grown on the site, he can choose the most profitable option for himself.
4. Transplanting in the fall is also more profitable in terms of physical costs. Work can be carried out slowly, since urgent cases on the site in the fall are much less than in the spring.

Transplant dates

It is impossible to answer the question of when it is better to transplant strawberries to a new place in the fall. It all depends on the weather and climatic conditions.

It is the autumn transplant that contributes to the yield

You should focus on the following indicators:

• climatic conditions of the region;
• the microclimate of the site;
• weather;
• quality of planting material;
• ways to propagate berries.

It is better to transplant sockets at a temperature of 15 to 23 ° C, with sufficient soil moisture.

The optimal timing of transplantation in different regions is as follows:

1. The middle zone of Russia and the Moscow region - from mid-August to the end of September.
2. Southern regions - from early September to mid-October.
3. Northern regions and the Urals - from the beginning of June to the end of July.

IMPORTANT. Times are subject to change depending on weather conditions. If frosts are planned, it is worth hurrying with a transplant, otherwise the seedlings will not have time to take root.

Selection and preparation of a site for landing

The best place for growing strawberries is the southwestern part of the site with a slight slope to prevent moisture stagnation. The occurrence of groundwater in the area should be no higher than 80 cm. A slight elevation will protect the roots from decay, which may appear in early spring after the snow melts.

Weather conditions set certain requirements for the rules of transplanting, watering, pruning plants

The selected site should be sunny, but not blown by strong through winds. A sufficient amount of sun will allow you to get not only large berries in large quantities, but also make them sweeter.

Soil preparation

Strawberries prefer fertile soil with a pH of 5.7–6.2. Peat and sandy soils are not suitable for the plant.

Proper selection of fertilizers, timely digging and loosening can create all the conditions for rapid growth and ripening of berries.

The best strawberry predecessors:

• radish;
• carrot;
• legumes;
• garlic;
• greens: parsley, dill;
• beet.

• solanaceous, especially potatoes;
• cabbage;
• cucumbers.

ADVICE. In the spring, it is advisable to plant the area chosen for strawberries with onions or garlic, or sow green manure: lupins, cereals.

A bed for strawberries is deeply dug up. 70 g of superphosphate, 30 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt are added to the soil per 1 square meter. After preparation, the site is left for 10–14 days for the soil to settle.

For disinfection, experienced gardeners advise treating the site with an antiseptic solution: add 3 tbsp to 10 liters of water. l. vegetable oil, 2 tbsp. l. ash, 2 tbsp. l. vinegar, 2 tbsp. l. liquid soap or dishwashing detergent.

Video: Strawberry transplant to a new place

Transplant technology: step by step instructions with photos

Features of reproduction of remontant varieties

Unlike ordinary varieties, remontant strawberries do not give mustaches - air shoots. Therefore, seating is carried out by dividing an adult bush.

A socket of a remontant variety is dug out of the soil. It consists of a central lignified root, to which young shoots are attached. The bush is divided into several parts so that in each there are personal roots 5–7 centimeters long.

Remontant - the ability to repeatedly bloom and bear fruit

Old leaves and remaining flower stalks are removed from the separated process. If they are left on the outlet, the plant will lose strength and take root too slowly. The root is dipped in Fitosporin-M for 2 hours. This technique will protect the plant from fungus and fill the roots with vitality. After this time, the sockets are planted according to the technology described above.

Plant care after transplantation and top dressing for the winter

Young rosettes need help to settle down. To do this, they are regularly watered, treated for pests, loosen the soil, remove weeds. If there is no rain, in the first 10 days, watering is carried out every other day. Then the frequency is reduced.

If whiskers begin to form on transplanted plants, they are immediately removed so that the outlet does not waste power. If frost threatens, strawberries are covered with a covering material.

When transplanting strawberries and preparing them for winter, they pay special attention to top dressing. At this time, the main nutrients of the plant are phosphorus and potassium.

Experts advise feeding the bushes with the following compositions to feed rooting rosettes:

1. Wood ash. It has the optimal content of phosphorus, potassium, and also contains calcium, boron, zinc, iodine and copper. It makes no sense to pour dry matter onto the soil, since the nutrition of the roots in this case will be limited. An infusion is prepared for top dressing: 300 g of ash is dissolved in 10 liters of water and left for 4 days. You need to fertilize each bush with a liter of infusion.
2. Superphosphate. Fertilizer is poured with boiling water for a day, during the infusion, the solution is periodically stirred. After infusion, a liter of infusion is poured under each bush.
3. Combined mix. For 10 liters of water, take 20 g of nitroammophoska, 30 g of potassium sulfate, 250 g of wood ash. The components insist for a day, then spend 500 ml under each bush.

IMPORTANT. Top dressing is applied only to moist soil so that the fertilizer does not burn the roots.

Subject to the technology of transplanting strawberries in the fall, the plant takes root well over the winter. In the spring it will give a rich harvest.

Remontant is the ability of plants to bear fruit repeatedly or repeatedly during one growing season. Remontant are observed in crops such as strawberries, strawberries, raspberries and some citrus fruits. In this article, we will introduce you to the rules for growing remontant strawberries: how to plant and care for remontant strawberries at different times of the year, how to protect them from pests and diseases, how to propagate and how to cut remontant strawberries.

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• Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings in the middle lane - at the end of February or at the beginning of March, in warmer areas - two to three weeks later. Planting seedlings in the ground - in the middle or at the end of May.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: leveled, loamy or sandy, neutral or slightly acidic.
• Watering: after planting seedlings - daily, after rooting - once every 2-4 days. In the conditions of dry spring, the first watering of old bushes is carried out at the end of April, and in May and June another 3-4 waterings are carried out. From August to September, the plot is watered 2 times a month, trying to wet the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.
• Top dressing: in just a season, 10-15 top dressings with organic and mineral fertilizers are carried out from spring to late autumn. From organics, slurry and a solution of chicken manure are preferred, from mineral complexes - Kemira Lux, Kristallin or Mortar.
• Pruning: in autumn, those leaves that may be affected by pests or infected with harmful plant microorganisms are carefully removed from the bushes. In the spring, old, overwintered leaves are removed. The mustache can be trimmed at any time.
• Reproduction: mustache, dividing the bush.
• Pests: aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, any beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds.
• Diseases: affected by gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and Fusarium wilt.

Read more about growing remontant strawberries below.

Remontant strawberry - description

Unlike ordinary strawberries, which lay fruit buds during short daylight hours, remontant crop varieties form them during long (LSD) or neutral (NSD) daylight hours. Remontant strawberries in the open field give two harvests of berries per season - in July and in August-September, and the second harvest is much more abundant than the first - from 60 to 90% of the total number of fruits per season. The problem is that not all bushes are able to withstand such a load, and many of them die after fruiting.

Sowing remontant strawberries

You can buy seedlings of remontant strawberries in a nursery or in a garden pavilion, or you can buy seeds and grow seedlings from them yourself. However, growing remontant strawberries from seeds suggests that soil moisture for sowing should be in the range of 70-80%. To achieve this, you need to pour 700-800 ml of water into 1 kg of dry substrate (light humus soil or universal soil) and mix this composition thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then containers with a diameter of 10-15 cm are filled with moistened substrate, leaving 3 cm free to the edge.

Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on the surface of the substrate and sprinkled with a thin layer of dry substrate or sand, after which the crops are lightly sprayed from a fine spray, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, bright place. Sowing is done in the middle lane in late February or early March, and in warmer areas 2-3 weeks earlier.

Caring for seedlings of remontant strawberries

Before the emergence of seedlings, the soil with crops is kept in a slightly damp state. If the room temperature is maintained at 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear in 10-15 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the containers with sprouts to the windowsill of a well-lit window, and if this is difficult, arrange additional lighting for the seedlings so that they do not stretch. At this stage, seedlings need regular ventilation.

Remontant strawberry pick

In the development phase, seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, that is, after about one and a half to two months, they dive into spacious boxes or in separate pots. Transplant seedlings to the same depth at which they grew before picking. And one and a half to two weeks before planting the seedlings in open ground, the seedlings are subjected to hardening: they are taken out daily for some time to the balcony, terrace or courtyard, gradually increasing the duration of the session. As soon as the seedlings adapt to external conditions, they can be planted in the garden.

Planting remontant strawberries

When to plant remontant strawberries

Cultivation of remontant strawberries is best done on a site where vegetables such as radishes, parsley, legumes, carrots, beets, garlic, calendula and mustard grew before. And after crops such as potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries and cabbage, it is not recommended to grow remontant strawberries. A plot for strawberries is chosen sunny and leveled, on which water will not stagnate. Soils are preferred loamy and sandy loamy neutral or slightly acidic. Soddy-podzolic and peaty soils are not suitable for growing remontant strawberries.

Seedlings are planted around mid-May or a little later, when the threat of returning night frosts has passed. If you decide to plant remontant strawberry bushes before winter, then it is better to do this from mid-August to the end of September.

The soil for remontant strawberries must be prepared in advance: for spring planting - from autumn, and for autumn in spring. Dig up the ground on the site with a pitchfork, clearing the place of future planting from weeds and introducing into the soil a bucket of humus, manure or compost and 5 kg of wood ash per m². A month before planting seedlings, add 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate to the soil, or one tablespoon of Kalijfos for each m² of area.

Planting remontant strawberries in spring

Seedlings of remontant strawberries are planted in two ways - carpet and ordinary. With the carpet method, seedlings are planted according to the scheme of 20x20 cm, and with the ordinary method, a distance of 20-25 cm is kept between seedlings in a row, and 70 cm between rows.

On a cloudy day, make holes in the area, water them and transfer seedlings into them along with an earthen clod. You can plant two seedlings in one hole. When planting seedlings, make sure that the roots in the hole do not bend, and the hearts are just above the surface of the plot. Thoroughly press the soil around the bushes so that there are no voids in the roots, and water the strawberries.

Planting remontant strawberries in autumn

If you plant a remontant strawberry in the spring, its fruiting will most likely begin only in a year, and besides, not everywhere in mid-May the soil is already warm enough for heat-loving remontant varieties to immediately begin to grow and develop. Therefore, gardeners are increasingly resorting to the autumn planting of remontant strawberries, especially since the technique for its implementation has been worked out to the subtleties.

Planting remontant strawberries in late summer or early autumn gives it time to take root and get stronger for the winter without such interference as harmful insects and pathogens of fungal diseases. Remontant strawberries are planted in the ground in the fall in the same order as in the spring.

Caring for remontant strawberries in spring

The care and cultivation of remontant strawberries is somewhat different from the cultivation of ordinary garden strawberries. The berries of remontant varieties are large in size - some of them can reach a mass of 100 g, but such success is possible only if the conditions of agricultural technology of the culture are observed.

After the spring planting of strawberries, it is advisable to mulch the bed with straw, peat, pine needles, sawdust, or cover it with black agrofiber - this measure will allow moisture to remain in the soil longer, and it will not be possible to water the strawberries so often. In general, caring for remontant strawberries includes watering them, carefully loosening the soil around the bushes, timely removal of weeds from the bed, regular feeding and protection from diseases and pests.

In early spring, old yellow leaves are removed from last year's remontant strawberries and ammonium nitrate is added to the soil. The next nitrogen top dressing is made at the end of May.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit for the first time in spring, but it makes sense to sacrifice the spring harvest in order to collect more berries in the fall, especially since spring remontant berries are much inferior in taste to the fruits of ordinary garden strawberries. And if, in addition to remontant varieties, you also grow ordinary ones, enjoy their fruits in the spring, and remove flower stalks from remontant strawberries as soon as they appear, and then the bushes will retain their strength for abundant autumn fruiting and give you berries of much higher taste.

However, this technique is effective only for annual and biennial bushes. Although if you take good care of remontant strawberries and fertilize regularly, you will be able to pick berries from it twice a season.

How to care for remontant strawberries in summer

How to care for remontant strawberries in summer? After you take the first harvest, you need to prepare the remontant strawberries for the second fruiting. To do this, you need to regularly fertilize, water and loosen the soil around the bushes. To enhance re-blooming, cut the leaves, trying not to damage the apical bud. However, in some remontant varieties, fruits are also formed on whisker rosettes, so it is better not to cut the leaves of such strawberries.

Remontant strawberries in the summer, in August, begin their second fruiting.

Caring for remontant strawberries in the fall

Very often, after the second fruiting, one has to plant new remontant bushes, since not every plant can withstand such a serious load. On average, with good care, a remontant strawberry bush lives and bears fruit for three years, but a lot depends not only on your efforts, but also on the climatic conditions of the area and the composition of the soil.

Watering remontant strawberries

There is a special scheme for moistening beds with strawberries, since the culture has a superficial root system, and it cannot take moisture from the deep layers of the soil, while strawberry leaves evaporate moisture intensively. Moisturize remontant strawberries, like garden ones, regularly, but it needs moisture even more than ordinary varieties, especially in extreme heat and during the fruiting period. Watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening and only with warm water.

After planting, young bushes are watered daily for the first few days, and then they switch to watering once every 2-4 days. For last year's bushes, the first spring watering, subject to a small amount of natural precipitation, is carried out at the end of April. In May and June, 3-4 more waterings should be carried out, and from August to September, remontant strawberries are watered at least twice a month. The soil in the beds should be moistened to a depth of 2-3 cm. The next day after watering or after rain, the soil around the bushes should be loosened to provide strawberry roots with air and destroy the crust that forms on the surface.

We remind you that mulching the beds or covering the area with black agrofibre will allow you to spend less time and effort on watering, weeding and loosening the soil in beds with remontant strawberries.

Top dressing remontant strawberries

Fertilizing remontant strawberries is one of the most important conditions for obtaining high yields and prolonging the life of plants, since they need a constant supply of potassium and nitrogen. Particularly dependent on top dressing varieties NSD. Phosphorus, if it was applied in the required amount before planting, is no longer required to be applied to the soil in the current season, you can mulch the bed with humus, spending 2-3 kg per m², or manure at the rate of 5-6 kg per unit area .

At the end of May, remontant strawberries are fertilized with a one-two percent solution of urea, and around the second half of June, during the extension of second crop peduncles, the beds can be watered with a solution of chicken manure or slurry, for which a bucket of manure is diluted with 8-10 parts of water, and a bucket of concentrated slurry - 3-4 parts.

In total, from 10 to 15 complex dressings are carried out per season. Remontant strawberries are fertilized until late autumn, while its roots are vegetating, otherwise it will retire weakened and exhausted. Not only organic, but also mineral fertilizers are used for top dressing, for example, Mortar, Kemiru Lux or Crystallin.

Remontant strawberry transplant

Actually, it makes no sense to transplant remontant strawberry bushes, since it is short-lived and usually lasts no more than three to four years, even with very good care. And we will tell you about how to transplant the resulting daughter outlets in the section on the propagation of remontant varieties.

But if you still have a need to transplant strawberry bushes, you should understand that in the fall this is done no later than three weeks before frost. Transplanting remontant strawberries in the spring will deprive you of the opportunity to get a quick harvest, so transplant them as early as possible before the flower stalks appear, and then you can get the first berries after mid-July. If flower stalks have already appeared, you will have to remove them to allow the strawberries to expend energy on successful rooting and adaptation, and not on flowering.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Pruning remontant strawberries in autumn

After the end of autumn fruiting, you need to carefully remove the leaves from the bushes, trying not to damage the axils of the upper leaves, since it is in them that the plant lays the fruit buds of the next year. The leaves are removed in order to get rid of possible infections and pests - only mature healthy shoots will remain overwintering. Pruning remontant strawberries should be completed with preventive treatment of the site from diseases and pests.

As for the mustache, they can be trimmed throughout the season, or you can not cut it at all. Some gardeners believe that they should be cut off so that the plantings do not thicken, but others argue that some varieties of remontant strawberries bear fruit on daughter outlets growing on mustaches, so you can’t cut off the mustache, and so that the plantings do not overgrow, you just need to plant bushes at a considerable distance from each other. However, on the eve of winter, if you are going to cut the leaves of remontant strawberries, you should also cut off the mustache.

Pruning strawberries in spring remontant

In the spring, old, yellow, overwintered leaves are cut from the strawberry bushes, if you did not cut them the previous fall, after which the remontant strawberries are treated for diseases and pests. And I must say that many gardeners prefer to cut remontant strawberries in the spring.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

We have already described the propagation of remontant strawberries by seed seedlings. How else can you propagate this type of strawberry?

Reproduction of remontant strawberries with a mustache

If you want to expand your garden of remontant strawberries with rooted tendrils, you will have to sacrifice a second crop. During the first fruiting, mark for yourself the strongest and most developed annual bushes, spread their first whiskers into grooves made along the side of the bed, and the rest of the whiskers will have to be cut off so that they do not weaken the mother bush. After a while, sprouts will begin to appear on the mustache, but you will need to leave only the first rosettes. Trim the second order whiskers, but do not separate the first rosettes from the mother plant.

While they are gaining volume and strength, water and weed the soil around them. A week before transplanting rosettes to a permanent place, separate them from the mother plant, and then transplant them, as described at the beginning of the article.

Propagation of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush

This method of propagation of remontant strawberries is used when there is not enough planting material. Developed bushes of two, three and four years of age with strong roots are divided - by this age, the bush has already formed many shoots-horns, each of which has a rosette of leaves. Such a bush is dug up in early spring or autumn, carefully divided into horns, and then planted in a garden.

Remontant strawberries in winter

With the onset of autumn, strawberry watering is gradually reduced, its sanitary pruning is carried out, if there is confidence that the remontant strawberries should be cut in the fall, preventive treatment is carried out against diseases and pests, after which they allow the remontant strawberry to survive a couple of frosts and only after that they cover it for the winter with non-woven material, although where winters are short and mild, sawdust, fallen leaves, hay or straw can be used as shelter. Old bushes, which are unlikely to bear fruit next season, need to be dug up before the first snow.

Pests and diseases of remontant strawberries

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries suffer from the same diseases as ordinary garden strawberries: gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and fusarium wilt.

Remontant strawberry pests

Of the pests, aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds most often affect remontant strawberries. Diseases and pests of remontant strawberries, as well as ways to get rid of them, are described in detail in an article already posted on our website.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

As already mentioned, varieties of remontant strawberries are of two types - NSD (neutral daylight hours) and DSD (long daylight hours). The former bear fruit continuously, while the latter produce two or three crops per season. In addition, remontant varieties are divided into those that form mustaches and those that do not form them, as well as small-fruited and large-fruited. We offer you a description of varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in warm regions, in the middle lane and Siberia.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region

The best varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region:

• Aromas- highly productive variety resistant to powdery mildew and strawberry mites with large, dense, shiny berries of high taste;
• Vima Rina- a Dutch variety of a neutral day, almost not forming a mustache, starting fruiting in the second half of June and ceasing to form fruits with the first frost. The berries of this variety are dark red in color, large - weighing up to 75 g, not very dense in texture, with high taste;
• hybrid Tristan is a compact, early-flowering variety with almost no whiskers and bears fruit throughout the summer with dark red, medium-sized, sweet berries. The flowers of this variety are large, juicy pink;
• Garland- one of the best remontant varieties, which has no equal in terms of productivity. In addition, it is highly decorative, since flowers, ovaries, and red sweet fruits weighing about 40 g can be seen on the bush at the same time. Strawberries of this variety are grown both in beds and in vertical culture;
• Diamond- An American high-yielding variety with the best taste indicators to date. Diamond fruits are dense, large - up to 50 g in weight, shiny, dark red. Since the pulp of the berries is light, it is not used for processing. Bushes of this variety are able to form a mustache, which greatly facilitates its reproduction.

In addition to those described, the remontant strawberries for the Moscow Region of the varieties Cascade, Cardinal, Queen Elizabeth 2, Ostara, Sweet Evi, Evis Delight, Evi 2, Elsanta, Selva, Figaro, Florin, Floriant, Everest, hybrids Merlan, Pikan, Roman and others .

Varieties of remontant strawberries for Siberia

It is not easy to grow heat-loving plants in the harsh Siberian climate, and not every strawberry variety will be able to fully develop and bear fruit in such conditions. However, there are varieties that can be grown here too: they give the first harvest along with ordinary garden strawberries, and in order to wait for the second harvest, you will have to use a film to cover the beds. The best varieties for Siberia are:

• Queen Elizabeth 2- a winter-hardy variety with early fruiting, the berries of which are bright red, of excellent taste, with dense pulp, sometimes reaching 100-110 g in weight;
• Mount Everest- unpretentious to the composition of the soil, resistant to diseases and pests, a variety with powerful, densely leafy bushes, tall peduncles and bright red small berries of a conical shape and good taste. This variety forms mustaches only in the first year of growth;
• Inexhaustible- a large-fruited productive variety, bred by crossing the Inexhaustible and Upper Silesia varieties and forming medium-height, slightly spreading bushes with large dark green foliage, on which large, blunt, shiny berries ripen with excellent taste. The pulp of the berries of this variety is light pink in color. Mustache variety forms little, it is also susceptible to powdery mildew;
• Russian size- large-fruited hybrid variety, resistant to frost and diseases, with juicy berries of excellent taste;
• Ada- high-yielding variety of German selection, capable of forming a large number of mustaches. The berries are bright red, medium size, shiny, elongated-conical, with an average weight of 5-6 g. The pulp is white with a red core, loose, pleasant sour-sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is the instability to the strawberry mite and white leaf spot;
• Diva- also a hybrid variety with powerful bushes, tall peduncles and bright red sweet berries.

In order to determine which variety of remontant strawberries is better than others, you need to be aware of what you expect from it. Some gardeners are more interested in the size of the berries, others in the taste, and still others in the ability to form a mustache, because it is desirable to be able to propagate the variety you like. We offer you a description of different varieties, and you will determine for yourself which one you need. So, the best remontant strawberry:

• Brighton- a beardless variety of NSD, bred by American breeders. In protected ground conditions, this strawberry bears fruit for up to 10 months a year, and in open ground - from spring to late autumn. The fruits of this variety, red, shiny, sweet and sour in taste, reach a weight of 50 g. During the period of cooling, they become larger and stretch. The variety is distinguished by cold resistance, as well as resistance to diseases and pests;
• Crimean remontant- one of the best DSD varieties of Ukrainian selection - high-yielding, continuously fruiting from late May to October. The berries of this variety are leveled, juicy, large, dark red in color, with the aroma of wild strawberries. The advantages of the variety are also high decorativeness, winter hardiness, resistance to strawberry mites and diseases. The crop is formed both on bushes and on rosettes;
• autumn fun- one of the first varieties of DSD of Soviet selection, bearing fruit twice a season. Juicy fruits of this variety reach 20 g in weight, have dense pulp and excellent dessert taste. The variety forms a mustache, resistant to nematodes, strawberry mites and fungal diseases;
• Novel- a hybrid variety of NSD, which differs from others in its high decorative effect due to pink flowers on long peduncles, effectively standing out against the background of juicy green leaves. Strawberries bear fruit in protected ground with proper care up to 10 months a year. The fruits are leveled, weighing up to 25 g, excellent taste and pleasant aroma;
• San Rival- a variety of French selection of medium yield. The first berries of the crop are irregularly shaped, ribbed, comb-shaped. Subsequently, the fruits develop of medium size, rounded, without a neck, shiny and pubescent. The taste of berries is sweet and sour, the pulp is juicy and tender. The advantage of the variety is also the ability to form a large number of mustaches, which greatly facilitates the cultivation of strawberries;
• Selva- a variety of American selection, bred by crossing Brighton, Pajero and Tufts varieties. The bushes are vigorous, with large leaves, but compact. The berries are large, light red, elastic, shiny, cone-shaped, with dense juicy pulp, but have a rustic taste and inexpressive aroma. The variety is resistant to diseases of roots and leaves, but does not differ in frost resistance;
• Herzberg Triumph- a winter-hardy variety that forms many mustaches, bred by German breeders, with dark red, shiny truncated-conical small berries weighing up to 6.5 g with dense, but tender and juicy pulp of a sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is instability to angular and white spots;
• yellow wonder- a beardless variety for lovers of curiosities. This is a yellow remontant strawberry resistant to diseases and pests with medium-sized fruits weighing up to 3 g of an elongated conical shape, growing on compact bushes up to 25 cm high. The variety does not differ in particular aroma.

Recently, breeders have developed new varieties and hybrids of remontant strawberries that may be of interest to gardeners. For example:

• Albion- resistant to weather stresses, anthracnose, late blight, rot and wilt, California variety with dark red, large shiny conical fruits, a unique strong aroma and intense sweet taste. The fruits ripen well to the very tip. Young leaves are highly lustrous;
• Gigantella Maxi- a Dutch variety with very large berries, reaching 100 g in weight;
• Crown- also a Dutch variety with fragrant red fruits of excellent taste, which tolerate transportation well;
• kimberley- a variety with sweet red berries, reminiscent of caramel in taste;
• Galya Chiv- a new highly productive Italian large-fruited variety - the average weight of bright red fruits, characterized by high sugar content, 45 g;
• Lyubava (or Lyubasha)- unpretentious, high-yielding and most winter-hardy of all remontant varieties with small dark red oval-rhombic berries weighing 20-30 g, with an intense taste and aroma. This strawberry forms berries both on bushes and on rosettes, therefore it is used for vertical cultivation;
• Portola- high-yielding variety, bred in 2009 in California. Its large, shiny, regular conical fruits are similar to Albion berries, but slightly lighter and more harmonious taste, almost devoid of acid. Fruit weight is about 30 g. The variety can be grown both in protected and open ground. The disadvantages of the variety is the instability to fungal and viral diseases;

After this article, they usually read

About a year ago I sowed remontant strawberries. Now there are quite large bushes. When should it bloom and give a harvest? Fertilized with ideal, epin and special fertilizer for strawberries. Tell me, is it possible to transplant it into a large container and put it in the garden when it is completely warm? Maybe something else needs to be tweaked? I heard that remontant strawberries bloom and bear fruit all year round. Is this realistic in my case if I clean the house for the winter? How long does a bush live with good care?

If you had taken a container with remontant strawberries grown from seeds for the summer into the garden last year, when the last frosts had passed, then the first crop would have been harvested in the fall. It is recommended to remove the first flower stalks on young rosettes in order to allow powerful bushes to develop by winter.

It is even better, if possible, to transplant strawberries from a container into a bed for the summer (when grown from seeds - with 3-4 true leaves), and in the fall, if necessary, return them back to the container and continue to grow strawberries in the house. If this is not possible, then on warm spring days, for the whole summer and warm autumn, be sure to take strawberries in containers to fresh air (after preliminary hardening): in the sun it regularly bears fruit.

With good care, bushes of remontant strawberries regularly bear fruit for 5 or even 6 years; but under the bushes gradually exposed from below, you need to pour earth and mulch.

When planning the planting of remontant strawberries in the garden, it is better to fertilize the garden in advance in the fall (strawberries do not like the high concentration of salts). On sod-podzolic soil per 1 sq. meter contribute about 7 kg of compost (humus), about 100 g of potash fertilizers, about 70 g of superphosphate. On light sandy soils, it is desirable, in addition to fertilizers, to add loamy soil for digging. If the garden has acidic soil, then its liming should be carried out a year or two before planting strawberries. It is better not to dig up a bed for strawberries prepared in the fall in the spring, otherwise the earth will settle, and the roots of young rosettes will be exposed.

It is not necessary to plant bushes of remontant strawberries in a container very densely, so that they only slightly touch and do not obscure each other. In a plastic container, it is advisable to drill drainage holes from the sides in addition to those at the bottom. Drainage must be placed at the bottom of the container. Strawberries should be watered in a container as the substrate dries. Strawberries respond well to natural organic fertilizers, liquid fertilizer extracts from biohumus. It is important not to overfertilize strawberries, otherwise there will be a lot of beautiful leaves and few berries on the bush.

Gardener L.B. Rekhtina from the Krasnodar Territory in the fall digs out of the garden several bushes of remontant strawberries of the Ryugen variety, cuts their roots, cuts off all the leaves and peduncles, rinses them in potassium permanganate and plants them in a container. She adds a little ash and humus to the ground, and puts a few rusty nails in the bottom layer of soil in a pot (oxidized, the nails feed the strawberries with iron). After a few days, the strawberries begin to grow young leaves. Lyubov Borisovna plucks the emerging flower stalks so that the bushes take root faster. When the leaves grow enough, you can already leave flower stalks. Strawberries grow well and bear fruit with regular spraying, fertilizing with organic matter.

The answer was prepared by Ziborova E.Yu.

All about strawberries on the site gardenia.ru

What you need to know about remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries in your garden is an opportunity to eat your favorite fragrant and tasty berries from the beginning of summer until the very frost. If you also love this beautiful berry, then you should definitely plant remontant strawberries, or better even its different varieties, in order to provide yourself with a strawberry variety. Growing, planting, caring for and propagating remontant strawberries - in this article you will find everything that an amateur gardener should know.

The advantages of remontant strawberries over ordinary strawberries are that it is characterized by continuous flowering, and, consequently, long-term fruiting and high yields. Such features of it are explained by the ability to lay flower (scientifically - generative) buds in the spring, which develop in the same year, forming flowers, and then berries.

Types of remontant strawberries and its features

Strawberry garden remontant is of two types:

small-fruited remontant strawberries, reminiscent of wild strawberries, which is the main character of this article;

large-fruited remontant strawberry, which is usually called strawberry.

A small digression to clarify the terminology. What we used to call strawberries, from a scientific point of view, is not a strawberry at all, but an ordinary large-fruited garden strawberry. But from childhood I got used to the fact that a large berry is a strawberry, and a small one is a strawberry. And I'm not the only one, because most people share them that way. It's easier to say one word than three. So you will feel like eating them ... Just kidding, of course. On my blog, I will share the berries in the way that is more familiar to everyone.

This culture originated from wild strawberries and inherited the size and taste of berries from it. Berries of remontant strawberries have a variety of colors (white, yellow, cream, dark red).

Remontant strawberries are distinguished by a long and continuous period of fruiting, lasting from June to September-October (until frost). Among the variety of varieties there are beardless, which are especially popular and varieties that form a mustache.

By the way, remontant strawberries are one of the best berries for royal jam.

Growing remontant strawberries

These plants are grown mainly by seedling method.

Seedlings are obtained from seeds that are sown from February to May in containers with fertile soil. Sown seeds are sprinkled with humus or compost. But there is also an opinion that they do not need to be powdered at all. Containers are covered with a film or glass on top, kept in a room with an air temperature of + 18 ... + 20? C until the seeds germinate.

Seedlings dive as usual. When 5-6 leaves appear, strawberries are planted in open ground.

The most difficult thing in growing remontant strawberries is considered to be seedlings. But even this moment can be simplified if during the summer you scatter a few berries on an unmulched garden bed and from time to time water it with a small “rain” from a watering can. There is a high probability of seedlings, which you then transplant to a permanent bed. This method will eliminate the difficulties of growing seedlings at home in the winter-spring period. But this cultivation option is suitable only if you already have fruit-bearing bushes with remontant strawberries.

Propagation of remontant strawberries is possible both by seeds and by the vegetative method. Of the vegetative methods, bush division is used (for beardless varieties) and mustache propagation, which are the organs of vegetative propagation.

Planting remontant strawberries

For planting remontant strawberries, you can use different technologies. But, as experience shows, it is better to use the cluster two-line method. It allows you to avoid thickening of plantings and protect strawberries from fungal diseases. And also to produce combined crops / plantings of other crops (for example, garlic, which is a very good companion for strawberries and strawberries, as it helps to drive away slugs).

It is better to plant strawberries on narrow beds with a width of 90 cm to 110 cm at a distance of about 40-50 cm between the bushes (in traditional agricultural technology, a distance of 20-25 is recommended, but very dense plantings are obtained). Choose a sunny place for the queen and then she will thank you with sweeter and more fragrant berries.

Before planting, loosen the soil (you can use a Fokin flat cutter), make holes 25 × 25 cm and a depth of about 25 cm, spill them well with water. Also, when planting in the hole, it is necessary to add organic top dressing. An approximate mixture of such top dressing: for 1 bucket of earth from the garden, take 2 cups of ash, 1 bucket of compost mixed with 2 liters of biohumus.

When planting seedlings, it is necessary to ensure that the roots of the plants do not bend and deepen vertically, and the apical bud is located on the surface of the soil, but not very high. Planted plants should be watered immediately. And I would advise immediately to mulch them with a thin layer of mulch. Lightly dried grass leaves, needles, not fresh (rotted) sawdust, compost are suitable here. Coarse straw is not very good immediately after planting, as it is very tough for young leaves.

I recommend watching the video about how strawberries are grown in natural farming. This is really valuable information. You will find the video in the article "What are the features in growing remontant strawberries". By the way, it tells in more detail about growing strawberries from seeds.

Caring for remontant strawberries

Proper care of strawberries includes mulching. Dry grass (hay), straw and sawdust (but also not fresh is better) can also be used as mulch for already established plants. Mulch not only improves the composition of the soil and retains moisture, but also inhibits the growth of weeds and protects the berries from rotting.

In hot weather, the soil dries out quickly, and the lack of moisture leads to a reduction in yield. Therefore, strawberries need regular watering. It is especially important to provide the necessary level of humidity in those phases of plant growth and development that determine productivity (that is, you need to water all summer if there is no rain). You can reduce watering thanks to mulch, which you already know about.

In conventional farming, row spacing is recommended to help retain moisture in the soil and allow air to reach the roots. Before the ripening of berries, it is recommended to carry out three loosening. During the fruiting period, loosening is not recommended. But in organic farming, which we are familiar with, all this can be simplified precisely thanks to mulching. You do not need to rake the mulch and do loosening. Let the strawberries just grow for themselves, and the mulch will ensure both the preservation of moisture in the soil and air access to the roots. The main thing is to make sure that the mulch is in the garden.

Weeds will not kill strawberries, but this will affect the quality of the berries. Therefore, weeding should still be carried out, do it as needed. But again, in organic farming, weed control is done by mulch. But if some one breaks through it, then pull it out and that's it. Moreover, your bed is narrow and you can easily reach even to its middle without disturbing your favorite remontant strawberries at all.

During weeding, along with weeds, it is also necessary to remove old reddening leaves. This technique helps to rejuvenate the bushes. Some people advise leaving the same leaves in the garden as mulch, but I'm not sure if this is a good solution. It's probably better to compost them anyway.

But with fertilizers you need to be careful. If necessary, a small amount of rotted organic matter (compost) can be added to the soil. It is better to do this before or during the planting of strawberries. To feed plants and protect against insect pests, you can use the ash, which is sprinkled on the leaves.

The rudiments of the mustache must be periodically removed, preventing them from taking root. Since the timely removal of the mustache is the key to a high yield.

There are no fundamental differences in the cultivation and care of beardless strawberries and those that form a mustache.

Preparing for winter

It is very important to care for remontant strawberries in the fall and prepare for winter, which include:

reduced watering (closer to wintering);

sanitary treatment of bushes - trimming mustaches and diseased leaves (healthy leaves should be left).

From these activities depends on the harvest of berries next year.

Varieties of remontant strawberry

Varieties of remontant strawberries differ, first of all, in the presence or absence of mustaches and ripening time.

Small-fruited beardless varieties of domestic selection:

Ali Baba variety

Forms powerful semi-spreading bushes up to 15 cm high with a large number of inflorescences. The berries are intense red conical shape. The flesh is white with a forest aroma. The mass of berries is 3-5 g. The variety is distinguished by unsurpassed productivity, high resistance to drought, diseases and pests. Winters great.

remontant strawberry Alexandria

Forms neat bushes. Berries fragrant traditional red color. The mass of berries reaches 5-8 g. The variety is productive, unpretentious, responsive to care. It has a high decorative effect.

The Alexandria variety, as well as the remontant strawberry Ali Baba, are considered one of the best varieties of alpine strawberries.

grade Forest fairy tale

Forms compact bushes of medium size with numerous peduncles. Characterized by continuous flowering. Red berries are conical in shape. The pulp is sweet and sour. The mass of berries is about 5 g. The variety is high-yielding.

Small-fruited beardless varieties of world selection:

grade Ruyana
Forms compact bushes and gives large berries with bright red color and juicy pulp. The berries have a rich aroma of wild strawberries, ripen earlier than other varieties (by two weeks). The variety has a high yield and continuous fruiting throughout the season. The variety winters well and is resistant to drought, diseases and pests.

grade Rügen
Differs in early flowering and fruiting, continuing without interruption. The berries are red, conical, larger than those of wild strawberries with a unique taste and aroma. The flesh is yellowish white. Rugen is a dessert variety.

Variety Baron Solemacher

Early variety with continuous fruiting. Berries with convex inclusions have a rich red color and weight up to 4 g. The pulp is sweet, without sourness. The variety has excellent taste and disease resistance.

Of the variety of varieties, only the best varieties of remontant strawberries are presented here.

That's all for today. I think remontant strawberries will become your favorite, because it's so nice to eat berries all summer and until the frost itself. And in fact, it is not so difficult to care for it, so feel free to buy seeds or seedlings of remontant strawberries, plant and enjoy its beautiful berries. I wish you high yields!

I advise, dear readers, to receive fresh articles by e-mail. so as not to miss the publication of new materials on this blog.

How to grow remontant strawberries in a garden plot

Remontant strawberries in your garden are everyone's favorite fragrant berries that you can enjoy from the very beginning of summer until the arrival of frost. You can grow such berries quite independently. However, you should be prepared for the fact that planting remontant strawberries and further caring for them will require scrupulous attention from gardeners, since such varieties have a number of specific features.

The virtues of culture

The main advantage of remontant strawberries is their characteristic continuous flowering and, accordingly, long-term fruiting and high yields. This feature of strawberries (bearing fruit all summer season) was laid down by the work of breeders, thanks to which many gardeners can now make their dream come true and grow a high-yielding crop in their garden.

The most successful is the planting of remontant strawberries, if it was carried out in the area where bulbous flowers (tulips, crocuses, hyacinths) or vegetables - early cabbage, lettuce and cucumbers previously grew.

This is explained by the fact that the listed crops release the land quite early, which allows it to be properly cared for: cultivate the soil and prepare it for planting strawberry seedlings.

How to plant remontant strawberries

Planting remontant strawberries can begin in the spring and last until the arrival of the autumn season. If it turns out that planting work is carried out in early spring (before the onset of dry heat with dry winds), then the results will be successful and will please the harvest.

Planting can also be carried out in the summer, in which case the crop will be pleased with a good yield next year. However, when planting strawberries in the summer season, in the post-planting period, it is worth spending a lot of time on weeding and loosening the soil, as well as watering quite often. Strawberries will require the most minimal care if they are planted in the fall. You can learn about some of the features that remontant strawberries have, and which determine the timing of planting and conditions, by watching the video.

Landing methods

There are several technologies by which remontant strawberries are planted:

• perennial and annual crops;
• narrowband and broadband;
• tapestry;
• bush (one-line, two-line, three-line).

However, the most popular and preferred method, judging by the reviews of experienced gardeners, is planting the bush two-line method on the beds, the width of which is from 1.2 to 1.4 m with paths between them. The popularity of this method is justified by the fact that with it it is possible to avoid thickening of seedlings, as well as protect the culture from fungal-type diseases. At the same time, this method of planting strawberries allows parallel planting of another crop. For example, garlic can be planted between rows, which is also a very useful “companion” for remontant strawberries, as it will help get rid of slugs. However, the neighborhood of strawberries and tomatoes is contraindicated, since both of these crops can be subject to late blight, verticillium and fusarium diseases.

Best of all, remontant strawberries grow on narrow beds, the optimal width for which should be 90-110 cm.

The distance between the bushes must be maintained at about 40-50 cm (although traditional agricultural technology advises making it smaller - from 20 to 25 cm). In general, an individual approach is also possible, based on which variety you have chosen.

Planting process

Planting remontant strawberries should be carried out quite carefully. To facilitate further care and provide good conditions for development, planting seedlings, it must be borne in mind that if the deepening of the apical bud into the ground is too strong, then this will affect the growth of the bushes - it will slow down. And with a shallow planting, the roots will be exposed after watering and may begin to dry out, which will also adversely affect the development and growth of plants.

Before planting strawberries, the soil will need to be well loosened.

• 1 bucket of garden soil;
• 2 cups wood ash;
• 1 bucket of compost, to which 2 liters of biohumus are added.

In order to avoid evaporation on hot days and during dry periods, when planting seedlings, it is customary to remove the lower leaves from the bushes, leaving only one full-fledged adult leaf that is fully expanded. Thus, evaporation will not harm the foliage, and the plant will take root much better and faster.

How to care for strawberries after planting

Remontant strawberries are not the most capricious culture. But, like other plants, after planting, she needs good care. Post-planting activities, from which, in fact, care begins, are that the planted seedlings of remontant strawberries are watered to ensure the best growth of seedling roots with the ground. Then it is worth mulching the soil. To do this, you can use needles and foliage (rotted), compost, small sawdust. Straw, especially coarse, gardeners are not advised to use, because it will be too dense and coarse for young bushes.

Rules for further care

Proper care of strawberries, if it is carried out in accordance with the characteristics of the remontant variety and general requirements, gives good results: the plants will take root perfectly in the garden and will develop well, subsequently delighting the owners with high yields. So, the main care should be:

• regular watering and fertilizing;
• timely detection and removal of bushes affected by diseases or pests;
• periodic soil mulching;
• manipulations for the destruction of pests;
• weeding weeds and loosening the surface of the earth;
• planting growing plantings, avoiding thickening.

top dressing

Remontant strawberries are preferable in cultivation because, when propagated by seeds, they will delight in the harvest of fragrant berries in the same year. But in order to get excellent yield indicators when planting strawberries in the form of seedlings, it is worthwhile to provide them with proper care in a timely manner - water the plants and feed them with fertilizers.

The first procedures related to fertilizing strawberries can be carried out as early as March, feeding with nitrogen-type fertilizers, applying them directly to the snow layer. The second top dressing is mulching with mineral and organic fertilizers in April. The third, last top dressing is carried out, as a rule, in September.

Undoubtedly, when fertilizing remontant strawberries, you should be extremely careful. If there is a need for additional top dressing, you can use a little compost.

Watering and mulching

On hot days, the soil dries out quite quickly, which will immediately affect the yield - a lack of moisture in the soil will lead to reduced flowering and fruiting. Therefore, it is necessary to water the culture regularly. Watering for strawberries is especially important when the bushes are at the stage of development, which determines the productivity of the crop. That is, strawberries will need to be watered throughout the summer season, if there is no rain. Mulch can significantly reduce watering, as well as loosening the soil, if it is regularly in the garden. Mulching will ensure, firstly, the preservation of moisture in the soil, and secondly, the constant access of fresh air to the root system of the bushes.

Another mulch is able to restrain the growth of weeds in the garden, which will simplify the care of the crop in terms of regular weeding. Of course, strawberries will not suffer from weeds if there is no way to mulch the soil. However, the presence of weeds can adversely affect the very quality of the berries of the crop.

Preparing the crop for wintering

Autumn care and preparation of remontant strawberries for winter are very important for the culture. The list of such procedures includes only two items: it is necessary to gradually reduce the volume of watering and carry out sanitary procedures for the treatment of bushes (pruning diseased or damaged leaves, trimming mustaches).

It is from these manipulations that the quality and quantity of the harvest that the next year will bring will depend.

During the winter, part of the strawberry foliage will dry up and die off. As a rule, various pests and pathogens of certain diseases can overwinter in such leaves. Therefore, with the advent of spring, all the fallen foliage must certainly be removed from the garden. But this should be done only after the threat of frost has passed, because after the snow has melted, the old dead leaves protect the young branches and the bushes themselves from the cold wind and help retain moisture in the soil.

Detection of diseases and pests

Strawberry remontant varieties is a plant quite tender and sensitive to various kinds of diseases. Such a culture can suffer from such diseases:

• powdery mildew;
• gray rot;
• stem nematode;
• leaf spot;
• late blight.

Against each of the above diseases, as well as against a number of others, there are many effective special drugs on the market. All work on the treatment and processing of bushes must be carried out after carefully studying the instructions for the preparations. And after processing, do not eat strawberries for a few more days.

Traditional farming methods also include spraying bushes with Bordeaux liquid and garlic-based infusions.

As you can see, remontant strawberries, planted and cared for by gardeners and gardeners in accordance with the requirements of the culture, can bear fruit all season without interruption, delighting the owners with a high-quality and healthy harvest.

According to agrarians, the timing of raspberry transplantation depends on many factors - what exactly is being transplanted - a bush, offspring or replacement shoots. And also from climatic conditions, characteristics of the variety - so the question is When? has a vague meaning.

In the spring, it is rational to transplant bushes with a well-developed root system, for the southern regions, regions with a mild climate - root shoots of remontant raspberries. In summer and autumn - root offspring and replacement shoots (for a temperate continental climate).
You can transplant raspberries in the summer - late July and early August.

The basic rules for transplanting raspberries can be summarized briefly. The best time to transplant raspberries is spring, mid-April.

Plants with a well-formed root system, with a stem of at least 1 cm in diameter, are transferred to a new place. Before planting, the stems are cut to a height of 1 m. The distance between seedlings is at least 1 m, depending on the variety, up to 1.5-2 m. However, many questions remain.

Location selection

According to the laws of crop rotation, they select a place where berries, nightshade did not grow. Optimal - green manure, beans, cucumbers, cabbage, etc. Open sunny areas should be avoided, the best place is in partial shade.

The soil for the planned new raspberry is fertilized in advance: organic matter, a mineral complex are introduced. For a farmer, plowing and organizing trenches are on the agenda.

Who is - what to call: choose planting material

We will learn to distinguish between replacement shoots and root shoots (offspring).

• The first are formed from buds located on the rhizome, located near the bush itself, up to half a meter.
• The latter are formed from the buds of the root system, which lies at a depth of up to 40 cm.

When rationing summer disposable varieties, 7-10-12 pieces are left depending on the variety, for remontant less - 4-7 per m2, but 8-10 pieces are left in case of an attack in winter.

Root shoots are more often used to replace in case of attacks, to support a row, in other cases they are eliminated, except for the most powerful one: it is used to increase the plantation.
To select the material during transplantation, non-fruitful, the strongest shoots with a powerful root are selected.

We are transplanting!

For transplantation, root offspring are carefully dug up, separated from the mother bush with a clod of earth, immersed in prepared trenches, pits.

They use both trenches 1-1.3 m and 1.5-2 bayonets of a shovel deep, and in pits with a diameter of 40x60 cm, the distance between rows is 1.5-3 m, in a row 1-1.5 m. potassium + phosphorus (70-80 g of ash, 10 g of potassium salt, 30 g of ammafoska - as an option). Important: the root should not touch organic matter, if it is manure, humus - a burn is possible. To do this, the nutrient mixture is sprinkled with a layer of earth, after which the plants are rooted.

After they are cut by 10 cm, they are tied to stakes. Next, you need watering and mulching with humus, peat, on top of vegetable mulch, which prevents drying out, sawdust.

Repair raspberries and transplant

Remontant raspberry transplantation has its own characteristics. As a rule, it bears fruit until frost, after which the plants that bear fruit are cut out. Thus, all work can be carried out either with the onset of cold weather, or transferred to spring.

In the south, in the middle lane, it is useful to transplant remontant raspberries in early spring. If within 7-10 days the soil does not freeze, the kidneys wake up, which subsequently freeze. This threatens with a shortage, a decrease in productivity, a small amount of overgrowth. Remontant raspberries react exactly the same way to a transplant in the fall in regions with a mild climate.

We plant shoots

Pruning of shoots begins in the fall, after harvesting, when the first frost hits the ground, at the end of sap flow. Raspberries are planned to be planted in the earliest spring, the best time is the end of March - the beginning of April, before the start of the growing season. It is impossible to delay - the culture starts the growing season early, the growth of the aerial green part is activated, the lack of nutrition for rooting will affect survival.

So, some gardeners are sure that with the spring renewal of the raspberry, survival is better and productivity is higher. Their opponents, confident in the rationality of the autumn transplant, argue as follows: having taken root before frost, the root system next year will be stronger, give the plant growth energy and higher yields.

The best time to transplant raspberries in the country, as many gardeners assure, is mid-September. Plants are placed both by bush and trench methods.

Lignified or green offspring of raspberries are planted in pits 40x60 cm, root cuttings - in holes or furrows. With a lack of organic matter, they are filled with a mineral complex - 30-40 g of superphosphate, 30-40 g of potassium salt, 30 g of ash.

We plant by dividing the bush

When transplanting raspberries by dividing the bush, the mother liquor is dug up at a distance of up to 30-35 cm, the roots are cut and carefully dug up, divided into seedlings. The old rhizome is most often not suitable for conservation. Cut out the remnants of fruiting stems. For better survival, it is advisable to dip the roots in a dung-clay mash.
Let's hope that our review has brought some clarity to how things are in the seedling field of raspberries - a generous harvest!

Raspberry variety Taganka

Description of raspberry Taganka

Juicy, tender and fragrant raspberries of this variety have a mass of 5 to 8 g. Individual specimens can reach up to 17 grams or more. Fruits of bright red color of the correct conical shape.

Raspberries bear fruit profusely. Harvest can be harvested 4 - 5 times. In season, up to 5 kg of berries are obtained from one bush. It does not crumble for a long time and is easily removed.

Raspberry remontant, begins to bear fruit from the second half of summer until late autumn. The variety is considered late ripening.

The height of the bush is 2 meters. From 7 to 9 powerful shoots depart from it. Older plants have thick spines at the bottom of the trunk; young stems have delicate, soft spines.

The leaves are dark green, large. They are densely arranged on the stem. Biennial shoots are brown, while young shoots are lighter and brighter.

The Taganka variety tolerates temperatures up to -20? and below. To prevent the plant from freezing in winter, it must be covered with agrofiber.

The undeniable advantages of raspberries of this variety include:

High yield.

Good winter hardiness.

Large and soft fruits.

Disease resistance.

There is also a disadvantage. So, with a long drought, its productivity decreases.

First you need to choose the right seedlings. Pay special attention to the root system. It should not have any damage or signs of disease.

Remontant raspberries are best planted in the fall, before the onset of frost. Landings quickly take root and easily endure the winter.

For seedlings, you should choose a place well-lit by the sun. It must be protected from wind and drafts. Suitable area along the fence, or against the wall of any building from the south.

Some gardeners plant raspberries between fruit trees, but this is not the best option. This plant loves loose, soft soil that is well breathable.

From one to another bush there should be a distance of at least 1.5 meters, since the bushes are sprawling.

The soil is pre-prepared. It is necessary to remove dry grass, leaf litter, debris, and then carefully dig the selected area.

Good Landing Rules:

Dig a trench 40 - 50 cm wide and the same depth. Arrange the seedlings at the desired distance.

Moisten the root system of the raspberry bush in a clay mash, lower it into the prepared groove and straighten it well.

Cover with earth, taking into account the distance of 4 - 5 cm from the surface of the earth to the place where the stem passes into the root, tamp.

Pour about 10 liters of water on each bush.

Mulch with humus or peat for 5-7 cm.

Leave space between rows. So it will be more convenient to collect raspberries and care for them.

Bushes are well rooted and take root, grow quickly.

Its further vegetation and yield will depend on compliance with all the rules for planting raspberries.

Any fruit and berry plantations need care, every gardener knows about it. This raspberry variety does not need special care. But certain activities are required.

Plantings should be watered 2-3 times a week in the morning and evening. Humidification is especially important during the formation of ovaries and fruits. Approximately 3 buckets per plant are poured out, but there should not be stagnation of water.

For bushes, it is best to make supports so that they do not bend due to their height under the weight of the fruit.

Like all remontant varieties, Taganka raspberries need to be cut. This work is carried out after the harvest. Bushes are cut to ground level, then mulched with snow, leaves or humus.

In the spring, dry branches and damaged parts are removed from the shoots. Unnecessary young shoots are also cut out.

Bushes are fertilized in the second year. Humus or peat is added to the soil, approximately 2 buckets per 1 sq.m. In case of acidification, ash is introduced.

When raspberries bloom, it's good to add mulch. Moisture will be better retained in the soil.

You can prepare a mixture of humus and ammonium nitrate, at the rate of 5 buckets per 1 sq.m.

This raspberry variety is quite resistant to various diseases. But if the plants are sick, they should be treated as soon as possible.

Possible diseases are anthracnose, root cancer, powdery mildew. With anthracnose, the stems and leaves of the plant are damaged, it may die. Two weeks before flowering, it is necessary to treat the bushes with Bordeaux liquid, 300 g is diluted in 10 liters of water.

Root cancer is growths on the roots of raspberries. The leaves of the plant turn yellow and fall off. At the same time, the yield drops sharply. If, before planting, you notice damaged areas on the underground part of the seedling, they must be removed, and the root itself should be treated with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Powdery mildew, a white coating on plants, causes the leaves to dry out and fall off. The quality and quantity of fruits is decreasing. You can treat raspberries with soda ash with laundry soap or copper sulfate solution. In advanced cases, Fitosporin is used (3 tsp per 10 liters of water).

If pests do appear, they urgently need to be fought. Raspberries can be hit by:

Raspberry beetle.

Runaway aphid.

Spider mite.

Bushes are treated with Fitosporin, Karbofos, Nitrofen and other chemicals. From folk remedies, an infusion of garlic with laundry soap is suitable.

To prevent such problems, prevention is necessary. Taganka raspberry care is not difficult, but it is mandatory. The time spent pays off with a good result.

Reviews about raspberry Taganka are contradictory. It often happens that seedlings are bought on the market, and it is very different from the original variety. Hence the confusion in its characterization.

It is better to buy varietal raspberries in nurseries and trusted stores.

Some believe that this variety is not very suitable for transportation and storage. However, other reviews note that the berry does not spoil for a long time.

In regions with cold winters, the bushes will have to bend down under the snow, and in its absence, shelter will be required.

But still, there are more positive reviews than negative ones. The fruits are used fresh, they make jams, jams, marmalades and compotes.

Gardeners love Taganka raspberries for their rather simple cultivation techniques, endurance, and high yields. This is a promising and popular variety. The appearance of new products will not make him much competition.

Repair raspberries: planting in the fall. How to plant and propagate remontant raspberries in the fall and cover for the winter

Remontant raspberries bear fruit twice a year - in summer and late autumn. Moreover, autumn fruiting is usually more abundant than spring, and gardeners are very fond of such raspberries because they supply us with fresh berries longer than ordinary raspberries. Let's try to figure out what features the autumn planting of remontant raspberries has.

The choice of seedlings for planting remontant raspberries in the fall

It is optimal for such a planting to choose seedlings in containers. If, during spring planting, it is recommended to cut the seedling to provoke tillering, then in the autumn planting, seedlings should not be cut in any case. On the contrary, it is desirable that the seedling have intact leaves, and that it receives enough energy from the sun to form a root system. If you are propagating raspberries by root cuttings or separation from the bush, it is advisable to remove the cuttings and part of the bush along with the ground to keep the roots intact. In the case when it is impossible to keep the earth on the roots, or seedlings in containers are not available, it is better to postpone planting, since in this case it is almost impossible to purchase raspberry seedlings with foliage on the shoots, and without it, the survival rate will be lower in autumn.

Good layering raspberries without a container:

Choosing a place for planting and planting scheme for remontant raspberries in the fall

For remontant raspberries, it is optimal to choose areas with light sandy and sandy loamy soils, on the southern slopes of hills with a slight slope. If you have to plant raspberries on the northern part of the slope, take care of sufficient protection from the winds by planting trees on the north side.

It is desirable that the area is well lit.- this is the key to a good autumn fruiting of remontant raspberries. Do not plant raspberries as a compacting horticultural crop between rows of trees or near buildings that block light from two or more sides - in this case, you will be disappointed with low yields. Raspberries love good lighting.

Raspberries also do not like the high location of groundwater in the soil., so planting it in wetlands makes no sense. For such areas, other crops can be recommended, for example, blackcurrant, which grows well even when groundwater occurs at a depth of half a meter.

Planting remontant raspberries in both autumn and spring is carried out in a square-nested way. On the site for raspberries, cells are broken, seedlings are planted every half a meter in width and length. For the convenience of courtship and harvesting, the plot is divided into ridges one meter wide and arbitrary in length. They make paths about 40 cm wide between them so that you can move along them. With a high level of groundwater, it can be recommended before planting raspberries to pour ridges of a mixture of sand and fine gravel about half a meter high, on top of them a layer of earth 20-30 cm, and only plant raspberries in it. Passages between the ridges should also be left about 40 cm wide.

In the future, the raspberries begin to actively bush, the old shoots die off, new ones grow in their place, and then one continuous array of raspberry shoots, fruiting, growing or old, which needs to be cut out, is formed.

Technology for planting remontant raspberries in the fall

The technology for planting remontant raspberries in the fall is the same as for planting blackberries, currants and other bush horticultural crops. Before planting, determine where the seedling will grow. Then, a hole is dug in this place about 30-40 cm deep, depending on the size of the root system of the seedling. Down the hole put rotted manure or humus.

The seedling is released from the pot if it is in a plastic or paper pot. If the seedling is in an eco-pot, in a humus pot, or in another container that collapses in the ground, it does not need to be removed. Before excavation, it is advisable to water the seedling a little so that the earth around the roots becomes denser and does not crumble during planting.

A seedling is placed in the hole and held with one hand. The earth is filled into the voids between the root system and the edges of the hole and crushed. At the end of planting, the earth is compacted by hand and watered, after watering, the earth is topped up and the soil is mulched.

Raspberries respond very readily to soil mulching both after planting and during cultivation. You can mulch grassy raspberry shoots with peat, sawdust, and even dry grass. After the autumn planting of remontant raspberries, it is mulched with a layer of about 10 cm. If you mulch with grass or peat, this will also be an organic fertilizer for the area where raspberries grow.

The need for constant watering of seedlings planted in autumn, as a rule, it does not occur, since there is quite enough rain. However, if the autumn is dry, you need to water the seedlings after planting at least once a week. When watering, it is desirable to dissolve potash fertilizers in water, they help the growth and survival of the root system.

Autumn transplant of remontant raspberries

Raspberries are a culture that reacts very painfully to a transplant. Be prepared in advance for the fact that you will wait two years for the harvest after transplantation, and do not rush to cut down the seedlings - for example, after transplanting, raspberries gave a harvest only in the third year. Now it bears fruit very abundantly, even better than in the old place.

When transplanting, take out such parts of the bushes so that they are as large as possible. The root system should be removed from the soil along with the ground. When transplanting, it is convenient to use a bayonet shovel for excavation and a pruner for trimming the roots. The roots are cut so that their parts are at least 30 cm long. The tops of the shoots do not need to be cut off during transplantation. Plant as the bush grew in the old place, with shoots and leaves.

Raspberries are transplanted in a square-nested way, leaving a distance of half a meter between seedlings. A hole is dug in the ground 10 cm deeper than the height of the root system of the seedling. Well-rotted manure or humus is poured into it. Then a seedling is placed, sprinkled with earth, the earth is compacted and watered. It is better to water from a watering can, several times, to ensure the gradual penetration of water into the soil.

Preparing remontant raspberries planted in autumn for winter

As a rule, no additional measures are required to prepare raspberries for winter after planting. If the winter is snowy enough, then even with severe frosts, the young raspberry shoots will be completely covered with snow and will not freeze.

However, if you have repotted bushes and they are tall enough, you can take care to cover them for the winter. To do this, the bush is bent to the ground with twine and small wire pins that are fixed in the ground. In this case, it will be completely covered with snow.

To provide reliable shelter with snow, they come to the site after the first snowfalls and tear off the snow on those places where raspberries grow, providing an artificially created snowdrift. This will provide additional thermal insulation, and will allow you to "recycle" the snow after clearing the garden paths, without taking it out of the site.

It is highly undesirable to cut repair raspberries for the winter, my sad experience speaks of this. Those bushes that were cut for winter did not bear fruit the next year and even a year later. The same bushes that overwintered "as is" felt great and gave a normal harvest.

Features of fruiting remontant raspberries

After planting, remontant raspberries come into fruition a little later than ordinary raspberries. This bush culture has an alternation of shoot fruiting - the same shoot gives a crop in a year. In remontant raspberries, two- and even three-year-old shoots usually give a crop. Therefore, do not be too zealous in thinning raspberries and cutting out too old seedlings, they are able to give a good harvest.

Sometimes, quite rarely, it happens that all planted raspberries begin to bear fruit periodically, after a year. This is compensated by a plentiful harvest, but still, most of us would like to receive fresh berries regularly. This usually occurs due to overfeeding with nitrogen and organic fertilizers, or due to the characteristics of the variety. It can also occur due to frost when raspberry flowers die.

Usually this problem can be solved by top dressing with superphosphates or other fertilizers containing it. There are also special spray formulations that provoke flowering and fruiting. If there is a possibility of frost during flowering, take action. As a rule, the first crop of remontant raspberries is smaller precisely because some of the color dies from frost. Cover the bushes at night with a special geofabric, or fumigate remontant raspberries at night during frosts.

How and when to prune repair raspberries

There is hardly a person in Russia who does not like raspberries. And if you have a desire to grow this berry on your site, then you should know important information about care, thanks to which the plant will delight with a wonderful harvest every year. We are talking about such a procedure as pruning remontant raspberries.

What is a repair raspberry?

This berry differs from other varieties in the ability to bear fruit on both annual and biennial shoots. In horticultural circles, this concept has been known for over two hundred years. With such a plant, you can get up to two crops a year, but the second will be slightly worse than the first. Back in the 1970s, breeders managed to develop several varieties of this type, of which varieties of standard raspberries became especially popular, which have especially strong stems that do not bend under the weight of the fruit.

The downside of remontant varieties is that the gardener is faced with a choice - either to harvest twice a year, having received fruits of medium quality both times, or to wait for autumn juicy and large berries. After all, summer fruiting greatly weakens the bushes. The following solution is often used - remontant raspberries and a regular variety are planted separately, from the first fruits are collected only in the fall, and from the second - in the summer. In order for the autumn harvest to be truly of high quality, it is necessary to properly feed the raspberries and follow all the rules for care, including pruning.

When is the best time to plant remontant raspberries?

As a rule, in the regions of our country it is most effective to plant raspberries at the junction of September and October, simultaneously with tulip bulbs. This is an ideal time for young seedlings to prepare for winter, stock up on nutrients.

Another option is planting in early spring or even early summer, but in this case it is important to keep the growth in an inclined position under a layer of snow and sawdust to prevent it from melting quickly.

In most varieties, the ovaries appear towards the end of summer, and fruiting begins in September. Although the remontant variety of raspberry is quite resistant to frost, the best result from it can be obtained in the southern part of the country.

In the description of each remontant variety there is an indicator of autumn yield, as a rule it reaches 80%. For best results, plants should be planted either in separate bushes or in rows so that the gap is at least 1.5 meters.

Why do you need to prune the plant?

Pruning remontant raspberries is necessary to obtain more abundant and high-quality crops. A neglected bush will bear fruit later in the fall, as well as produce small berries with many seeds. Cut the plant twice a year - in spring and autumn. What are the features of this procedure? First, some important tips.

1. You need to cut the shoots with a very sharp secateurs or a knife so as not to leave scratches on the rhizome.
2. For branches of different thickness, you can use a lopper, garden saw or pruner.
3. It is necessary to make an oblique cut to the outer kidney on each of the cut shoots.
4. If the cut is small, you can not cover it up, it is advisable to close up large ones with oil paint or garden pitch.
5. With a clean and well-sharpened tool, the pruning process will not harm the health of the plant.




Autumn pruning remontant raspberries

It is necessary to cut the remontant raspberries in the fall at the root, even if there are a lot of berries on its shoots. Branches with berries can be brought home and placed in a container of water to ripen. The remains in the ground should be carefully poured with water and covered with compost or sawdust (layer thickness - 20 cm).

Pruning should be done immediately after the first snow falls.

It is not necessary to leave hemp, in the future new shoots will grow without them, and even better and thicker.

Thus, pruning for the winter will not present any problems even for novice gardeners. No need to delve into which shoots are old and which are new - just cut everything as close to the soil surface as possible. After all, the plant has already given up all its possible harvest, and now it must rest until the onset of spring.

What happens if you do not do autumn pruning?

In this case, the shoots will overwinter under the snow, and new branches will begin to appear in the spring. But then the first summer harvest will be of poor quality (this applies to most Russian regions). In addition, it will take away a large amount of vitality from the plant, because of which the autumn harvest next year will be too late, which is completely unimportant in the northern latitudes.



Spring pruning

It is necessary to trim remontant raspberries in the spring as part of a light sanitization. In autumn, it has already been completely pruned, and in the spring the growth of new shoots begins. As soon as the snow at least partially melts, you need to remove the compost or what the raspberries were covered with so that the soil warms up properly with the sun. If, for example, hay was used as a backfill, then it itself must be processed in the ground.

If for some reason the remontant raspberries were not pruned in the fall, then it must be done immediately after the snow melts and strictly after the start of the formation of fresh growth. With a secateurs or a shovel, you need to normalize the number of new shoots a couple of centimeters above the ground. This is usually done in April during the first two weeks of the growing season. The number of shoots left depends on the variety and can vary from 6 to 12.

If desired, you can form new bushes. To do this, it is necessary to dig and transplant root shoots from horizontal roots.

A little later, in May, the tops of the new growth are shortened so that their height is 1 meter. This will speed up lateral branching and allow buds to form evenly throughout the plant. For the purpose of reproduction, you can “pinch” the top of the bush, then the root system will begin to actively grow. But this procedure will delay the onset of fruiting.



Do you need summer pruning?

Often, an inexperienced gardener is faced with the question - will it be right to cut or not cut raspberries in the summer? This is true only in warm latitudes, where the plant receives the maximum amount of nutrients and can produce two crops a year. The first is on new branches in the summer, starting from the second year, and the second is on the tops of annual branches in the autumn. In this case, in the summer, immediately after the harvest, you need to cut off the old shoots.

In the middle and northern latitudes, summer pruning is usually not done, because due to the cool climate, the bush produces only one crop. But it is necessary to remove excess greens so as not to deprive the lower parts of the raspberries of sunlight. Also today, modern varieties have been bred that grow much faster and begin to bear fruit.

Video on pruning remontant raspberries

Semi-repair varieties

This type of raspberry, although it can bear fruit a second time, does it only at the very tops of the shoots, unlike ordinary varieties, in which the ovaries are located along the entire height. Semi-repaired varieties - Indian Summer, Yellow Giant. In autumn, they cannot be cut to the level of the soil, otherwise there will be no fruits at all in summer, and in autumn they will be much later.

In such varieties, in the fall, only that part of the shoot on which there were berries is cut off, and in the spring rationing and removal of excess is carried out. Then in the summer on the branches left over from the winter, an excellent harvest will ripen. As soon as fruiting is over, two-year-old branches need to be cut. this is what the annual raspberry pruning procedures are limited to.

How to prune remontant raspberries in autumn

Raspberry is an unusually tasty berry with medicinal properties. Both adults and children love to eat it. With its help, you can strengthen your immune system, cure a cold faster, get rid of a fever, and even renew your blood. Breeders have bred a variety of varieties of this plant.



Some varieties bear fruit twice a year. Many gardeners really liked remontant raspberry varieties, as they do not require complex care. How to prune remontant raspberries in autumn? The answer to this question is very important, since the harvest in the next season will depend on how you cut the raspberries. Therefore, this article is dedicated to highlighting the topic of raspberry pruning. Also, at the end, a video corresponding to the topic will be provided.

Features of remontant raspberry varieties




The main feature of remontant raspberries is fruiting 2 times a year, namely in spring and autumn. The following are the distinguishing features of this type of berry:

6. In spring, the crop ripens on the branches of the second year, and in autumn - on the stems of the first year of life.
7. The period of autumn fruiting begins in August and continues until late autumn.
8. Berries can stay on the branches for a long time without rotting or crumbling.
9. If you decide to perform a complete cutting of shoots for the winter, then the root system will not need to be covered.
10. Gives few replacement shoots.
11. It does not need to be sprayed with chemicals.

Such properties prolong the fruiting period of the raspberry. Repair raspberries appeared on the territory of the Soviet Union in the 70s. last century. The first varieties bred in the USSR managed to produce most of the berries before persistent frosts. Raspberry remontant can produce up to 10 kg of large berries from a bush.

Distinctive features of pruning


I would like to say right away that pruning remontant raspberries for the winter is different from pruning ordinary berry varieties. All remontant varieties have three phases of development - growth, branching and fruiting, which take place in one year. In view of this, the berries of this type are cut in a special way. After the completion of autumn fruiting, the aerial part of the remontant raspberry must be completely cut off.



In the spring, new stems will grow, which will need to be thinned out so that the strong ones can gain strength and grow. From this we can conclude that remontant varieties do not have a two-year cycle, as in ordinary plant species, but one-year. This has its advantages. Thanks to the annual full pruning of the raspberry, diseases dangerous to the plant do not accumulate and pests do not have time to multiply in large numbers. In addition, due to the complete pruning of the aerial part of the plant, it is not afraid of frost, which will not cause you much trouble in caring for remontant raspberries in the fall.



Since summer in Russian lands is not very long, in some regions gardeners manage to collect only the first fruits, after which stable colds set in. And on the branches there are many ovaries and flowers. Under such conditions, pruning remontant raspberries in the fall is performed in a slightly different way.

Some gardeners do all the work in the same way as when growing ordinary varieties. The stem that has begun to bear fruit will not dry out during the winter cold. In this case, raspberries will begin to branch immediately after wintering and will produce berries in early summer. During the fruiting period, new stems will grow, from which in the fall you can collect many more delicious berries.



Remontant raspberries produce two harvests, which in total correspond to the harvest from one harvest of ordinary berry varieties. It is very important to cut the stems from two years ago after the first fruiting, somewhere in the middle of summer. Normalize also newly growing stems.

Trimming technique


If you are new to growing raspberries, then it will be helpful to familiarize yourself with the technique of pruning raspberries. Do I need to cut the raspberry completely? It all depends on how cold the region you live in is. If raspberries do not have time to ripen in the fall, then there is no need to carry out its full cutting. And if you have time to harvest in the fall, then all the stems need to be cut.



Now another question arises: how to properly cut remontant raspberries at the root? If you have to carry out a complete pruning of the bushes, then this does not mean that you do not need to leave the stems at all. 10–15 cm of branches should remain from the ground in height. Since the root system of remontant raspberries is not very deep, the stems left will be able to provide the roots with sufficient nutrition before the cold weather, so that the plant can overwinter.

Initially, all efforts are directed to the development of the root system and the bush. Active cutting of shoots should be done in the second year. Roots strengthened by spring will put out enough stems to produce a double crop of raspberries.



Cut off shoots and stems should be disposed of as soon as possible. Remove them from the beds and burn them, as pests and pathogenic bacteria can breed on them.

Fight against sprawl


If, after the pruning of remontant raspberries in the fall, there is no steady cold for 2 months, due to which the soil freezes, then the buds may germinate prematurely. This will negatively affect productivity. That is, full pruning is performed in regions with a milder climate, and partial pruning is performed in regions where there are severe winters.



If you wait for the buds to open in the spring and then prune, then the bush will receive all the necessary substances, which will accelerate its growth. In the northern regions, this is especially important, since the sooner the raspberries wake up, the more abundant the harvest can be expected.

Winter preparation secrets


Proper preparation of the plant for winter is the key to a good harvest next season. Raspberries are quite capricious, so it is important to know how to properly care for them. Therefore, later in the article we will talk about how to care for repair raspberries.

If uncut raspberry stalks are left as is, then severe frosts can kill them. Therefore, they need to be bent. This event will provide raspberries with additional protection, as the stems will be under snow cover throughout the winter.



Raspberry care in the fall for beginners may seem difficult, but if you follow all the recommendations outlined in the article, you can achieve success. And in fact, not everything is as difficult as it might seem. To bend down, you should stretch the wire between the trellises near the ground, to which raspberries are tied in summer. All the tops of the shoots are tied to it. This must be done before frost, until the stems become brittle.

In order for raspberries to overwinter well, it is required to fertilize them in the fall. It is better to refuse nitrogen, as they will reduce the frost resistance of the plant. And instead of them, add potash and phosphorus top dressings to the soil. In regions with little snow, you need to cover the bushes with snow so that they do not freeze. And if it is not there at all, then you will have to cover the raspberries with some kind of covering material.

Mulching. If necessary


After you finish cutting the remontant raspberries for the winter, remove the cut branches from the raspberries, you can mulch the soil. But does it need to be done? Mulching will protect the shallow root system from frost. The roots are located literally 15 cm deep from the surface of the earth, so they need additional protection. Only pruning raspberries will not protect them from the cold.



Mulching provides an optimal balance of temperature and humidity for the root system of raspberry bushes. Moreover, thanks to these manipulations, a crust will not appear on the soil, which means that the roots will always have enough oxygen. Mulching is carried out to a depth of 7 cm. Wood ash, sawdust, peat, straw, humus, chopped bark and needles are used as mulch. So, you will improve the fertility of the soil, in which there will be a lot of humus.

With regular mulching, overgrowth can be minimized. In addition, weed growth will be reduced. So, with proper pruning and care for remontant raspberries, you will receive a well-deserved reward - a bountiful harvest of healing and tasty berries. We invite you to watch a video on how to cut remontant raspberries:

Remontant strawberries bear fruit several times a year or even throughout the season. So I got one at my dacha 4 years ago. Now it's time to transplant it, so in this article we will consider in detail how strawberries are transplanted.

Once a neighbor came to me with a large bucket of 25 liters in her hands and said:
“I planted my strawberries ... there are a lot left, take them. Plant in a damp place - you will eat berries until the frost, just do not forget to water. It reproduces with antennae for the first year, and all subsequent years only the rhizome grows. Therefore, after a few years, strawberries will have to be planted. ”

Of course, I was delighted with such a visit. I found a suitable place and planted saplings, which began to take root to the last - a considerable bed turned out. And at the same time she thought how many of these strawberries she had, that so many remained after the transplant.

Strawberries turned out to be not simple, but ... no, not golden. Usually such varieties are called remontant, but for mine this name is not entirely suitable. There is such a thing as a strawberry of a neutral day, or more correctly called a garden strawberry of a neutral day. It differs from remontant in that immediately after planting, it begins to lay buds for the next crop, regardless of the length of daylight hours or the time of year. Even planted in autumn in November, it can bloom and even some berries will ripen if the temperature allows.

For the winter, strawberries of a neutral day go green and with flowers. The spectacle, of course, is still something ... there is snow all around, and strawberry flowers stick out of it. If there was a greenhouse, it would be possible to harvest berries all year round.

I didn’t particularly plant strawberries - I mulched, watered from time to time and that’s all. No dressings, treatments with drugs or other manipulations. Berries were enjoyed from the beginning of spring until the very cold. 4 years have passed, the bushes have grown so that the berries began to shrink, the thickened plantings began to suffer from diseases. I had to seriously think about how to seat them.

When is the best time to transplant

It is customary to transplant strawberries either in autumn or early spring.

Transplanting strawberries in the fall considered more preferable. After all, for the remaining warm days, strawberry bushes have time to take root, get stronger, and during the winter, by spring, the root system develops well. And in the spring you can enjoy the first harvest.

If you decide to transplant in the fall, then know that you need to finish transplanting strawberries 20 days before the soil freezes. Although there are situations when plants planted at a later date also take root well and give a bountiful harvest. But for this, favorable wintering conditions must be met - under a snow layer of 20 cm or more. As a last resort, it is necessary to cover the landings with spruce branches, sawdust, needles or other mulch and do not forget to remove it in the spring.

Transplanting strawberries in spring is less popular, since in this case a quick harvest is excluded. Ordinary strawberries do not bear fruit at all, and remontant strawberries will begin to yield only closer to the middle of summer. If you decide to transplant strawberries in the spring, it is better to do it early, even before the flower stalks appear. If time is lost, and flower stalks have already appeared, then they must be removed during transplantation so that the plant does not waste energy on maintaining them.

In my case, everything happened completely out of technology. It did not work out to meet the deadlines for transplanting strawberries. I was going to plant bushes in the fall, as expected. But the vicissitudes with the weather did not allow this to be done. At first it was hot, hot, very hot for transplanting, we were afraid that the strawberries would just burn. And then it got too cold. And so my strawberry garden went untransplanted into the winter. Spring came ... only it came for a long time, until May itself, so when the weather allowed us to come to the dacha, everything that could bloom was already in full bloom. And all at once and at the same time: and an apricot, and a cherry, and a sweet cherry, and an apple tree, and a strawberry.

I looked at my strawberries and realized that I was ready to sacrifice this year's crop, but it needed to be transplanted right now. Because if not now, then when?

The weather turned out to be successful, the temperature was +14 +18°C, not too hot, the soil was moist. Nature itself seemed to be pushing that it was time to start planting, not postponing for the fall.

Preparing the soil and planting material for transplanting

Strawberry is a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, for transplanting, I chose a low place on a site without perennial weeds, especially with strong roots. It is also important that the site is not flooded in the spring, otherwise the plants may rot.

Growing remontant strawberries is recommended on fertile, well-drained soil, sandy loam, for example. After all, for constant fruiting, the plant draws all the nutrients from the ground. So that the soil does not quickly deplete, before transplanting to the site, it is necessary to fertilize 6 - 8 kg of humus per 1 m 2 and two glasses of wood ash. If the soil is heavy, then you can add 1 - 2 buckets of sand.

When preparing the site, it is necessary to try to remove strawberry pests from it - the larvae of May beetles and wireworms.

The main feature of neutral day strawberries is the absence of mustaches or aerial shoots that take root in the soil. When it comes time to plant a bush, it is a large cluster of strawberry sprouts, each of which has its own small roots and is attached to a central lignified root. In the photo, you can clearly see what a dug-up bush of remontant strawberries looks like.

How to prepare strawberries for transplanting:

• First, we completely dig out the bush and shake off most of the earth.
• Then we carefully try to disassemble the rhizome by processes. If necessary, it can be torn off from the central root. The main thing at the same time is that personal roots remain on the process, at least 5-7 cm long. If a very small root remains - 1-2 cm, the seedling may not take root or will soon die.
• We cut off the old leaves from the shoot and if there are peduncles, we leave only a couple of young leaves. This is enough for the bush to take root well. We pay attention that the leaves are healthy, without signs of damage by diseases or pests.
• We dip the root part of the process into a container with a chatter and leave it for 1 - 2 hours.

Thus, several dozen future strawberry bushes can be soaked for a while. Usually they use earthen or clay chatter, but I came up with a better recipe.

A drug "Fitosporin-M" not only fights late blight and other fungal diseases well, it is also a valuable humic fertilizer. Having soaked the roots of strawberry seedlings in the Fitosporin-M solution, we not only disinfect the roots and prevent the development of diseases, but also nourish the plant with valuable substances.

After a couple of hours, you can start planting strawberries in open ground.

Carpet and ordinary landing method

When choosing a method for planting remontant strawberries, it is necessary first of all to take into account the convenience of harvesting.

The carpet method assumes that the plants will be at a distance of 20x20 cm from each other. Those. in a row between bushes there will be 20 cm, and between rows - 20 cm. Over the years, the bush grows and fills the free space. For normal fruiting, 10–15 cm should remain between garden strawberry bushes. When growing in a carpet way, the soil will have to be fertilized every year in different ways.

The ordinary method differs in that the distance between plants in a row is 20 - 25 cm, and between rows is 70 cm. Usually, the free aisle is filled with young bushes that have taken root from the mustache. But after all, we have remontant strawberries, which means that we will have to focus on the fact that the bush will grow in diameter.

As a result of a simple analysis, it turns out that a carpet or solid method is suitable for planting strawberries of neutral day varieties.

Landing technology:

• We dig holes at a distance of 20 - 25 cm from each other. You can use a small garden spatula. The depth of the hole is 10 - 15 cm. Focus on the length of the roots of the seedling that you are going to plant. If you see that the root is voluminous and long, as it happened more than once with me, then make a larger hole so as not to injure the rhizome too much.

• We take out a seedling of strawberries / strawberries from a container with a chatter and lower it into the hole. We lay out a few seedlings like this. One seedling for each hole.

Important! If the seedlings are small with short roots, you can plant two in one hole at once.

• Fill the hole with water and wait until it is absorbed. It is extremely important that the water, as it were, draws the roots into the ground.

• Then fill the hole with soil. At the same time, we make sure that the root neck of the strawberry seedling is always on top or at the level of the soil. We try not to deepen it.
• We compact the soil around the root system.
• We water the bush again.

For watering strawberry seedlings, you can use the Fitosporin-M solution or other top dressing.

The procedure for all seedlings is the same. Don't be scared if it's too much. Remember, at the beginning of the article, I wondered how much the neighbor of this strawberry had, that there were so many left? So I was convinced from my own experience that initially it could not have been much. After transplanting, my strawberry plantation has grown considerably and has increased 5-6 times. It's good that I had so much free land. But I will go to the next transplant with a large bucket for the neighbors.

Caring for transplanted bushes

Strawberries are moisture sensitive. Therefore, timely watering is the main agricultural technique. Especially in summer, when the heat is +30 °C. After all, strawberries like a temperate climate more - not too warm + 15 - + 18 ° С and humid. So you need to try to create at least some comfortable conditions for her. To do this, the soil must always be moist at a depth of 2 - 3 cm.

The easiest way to achieve this is mulch plantings. In addition to the fact that the mulch will save life-giving moisture, it will restrain the growth of weeds, and you will not have to weed often. Yes, and loosening after the rain is also not necessary. The earth will always be moist, airy and permeable.

As a mulch for garden strawberries, you can use straw, sunflower or buckwheat husks, wood shavings, humus, needles, hay and other materials.

I use regular hay and am very satisfied. During the summer, you have to add mulch a couple of times, as it settles and rots slowly. And during the winter, the hay decomposed completely, saturating the upper fertile layer with useful substances.

If ordinary strawberries can be fed only once a year, then care for remontant strawberries is somewhat different. After all, she bears fruit all the time.
We carry out the first top dressing in early spring using complex fertilizers. And then every 3-4 weeks we make preparations for root or foliar feeding, but they should not contain nitrogen. Processing strawberries on a leaf works well.

If for any reason you do not want or cannot mulch strawberry plantings, then remember that it is necessary to remove weeds from the site in time, they take away nutrients. After each rain or watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil so that a crust does not form.

It is also important to treat strawberries with antifungal drugs, otherwise you can lose not only the crop, but the entire plantation of plants.

In one place, garden strawberries remontant abundantly bear fruit for 3-4 years. With good care, this period can be extended to 5 - 7 years, after which the strawberries must be transplanted to another site. Strawberries can be returned to the old place no earlier than after five years.