Do-it-yourself water distribution in the apartment. Water distribution in the apartment - a comparison of tee and collector circuits Water distribution in the apartment diagram

One of the most important systems for ensuring human life in a country house is the water supply, which is divided into two parts: external and internal. Running a water supply network is not a simple matter. But you can do everything with your own hands without problems, knowing the piping system, taking into account the locations of consumers. True, it should be noted that any water supply system is a system that includes a fairly large list of various equipment and devices, not counting pipes. Therefore, the distribution of water in a private house, or rather its complexity, depends on two factors: the dispersion of consumers throughout the house and the number of circuit elements used.

plumbing scheme

External (external) plumbing

There are three options, depending on the source of water intake.

If the country water supply is connected to the central one. Why is the connection point determined, and then the pipe wiring goes underground to the house. The main requirement for this scheme is the straightness of the pipe laying in order to reduce the cost of its purchase, the second is the insulation of the wiring by laying the pipes in insulating cylinders made of foam-type polymer materials. Although you can use any other heaters.
Well. The easiest way to organize the water supply of a private house. A well up to 10 m deep is dug manually, its trunk is formed, where the pump is lowered. And already a pipe is stretched from it to the house, this is done in the same way as in the case of connecting to the central village water supply.
Well. Everything is the same as with the well. True, it should be noted that water from a well is a liquid of high quality and purity, and in the required volumes. One well can provide water even to several private houses.

Plumbing from a well or well

Attention! The central water supply does not always provide water at home with the necessary pressure. But it will always work, even if there is a power outage in the village. Unfortunately, the pumps immediately turn off. True, this problem can be solved by installing a storage tank or a hydraulic accumulator in the pipe distribution of the water supply of a private house.

There are several interesting points that relate to the possibility of avoiding high costs by equipping external plumbing. Firstly, both a well and a well can be built inside the house. This will have to be done before the construction of the building begins. Thus, the external water supply goes into the category of internal. So, there is an opportunity to save a lot on piping along the street.

The second concerns the well. It is possible to install a caisson on top of its trunk, in which the pump, and the hydraulic accumulator, and the automation unit, and part of the filter elements, and several valves or valves will fit. That is, the external part of the water network can be difficult in terms of increasing the equipment installed in it.

Caisson for a well

Internal plumbing

The complexity of distributing water around the house is related to the number of consumers (faucets and faucets) and their location. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to develop a scheme. This is the most important stage in the process of installation work, which should not be neglected. There is nothing difficult in drawing up a diagram. You just need to arm yourself with a tape measure and measure the distances from consumers to the connection points of each device.

Transfer all this to paper, taking into account the dimensions and configuration of the pipe laying. The diagram will show exactly how many pipes and fittings will need to be used in the installation process, where there will be a deviation from straight wiring, where passages through the bearing and non-bearing elements of the building will be installed. And the more rooms are involved in the plumbing system, the more complex the scheme will be.

One of the plumbing schemes

Attention! In the wiring diagram, all elements of the water supply must be taken into account: manifolds, pumps, filters, tanks and valves. It necessarily indicates the distances between elements and changes in the network configuration.

Methods for distributing internal plumbing

There are two ways to distribute pipes for consumers.

Connect all elements of the system in series. Usually this method is used in small country houses, where the number of consumers is minimal. Because in serial wiring, water reaches the last consumer with little pressure.

Sequential wiring diagram for water pipes
Collector water supply system. It is used in large houses with a large number of consumers. At the same time, collectors are installed in the system, from which a separate pipe is brought to each consumer. That is why inside such a wiring, the water pressure is always constant, meaning for each consumer. True, such a system is very costly in terms of increasing the number of pipes by laying a pipeline to each tap or mixer.

Collector scheme

It should be noted that the collector wiring of water supply pipes in an apartment is no different from the scheme inside a private house. The only slight difference is the introduction of hot and cold water pipes into the apartment separately. In a private house, one main pipe is brought into the building, and already from it, through a small collector, the branches are divided into a section that will provide the house with hot water, and separately cold. At the same time, a heating boiler is installed in the hot water supply branch, sometimes more than one, because there is a hot water supply system, there is a heating system. Although a double-circuit boiler combines these two systems into one complexly branched one with one heating device. But here it will be necessary to take everything into account and make the right decision regarding the installation of a single- or double-circuit boiler.

Attention! The installation location of the collector should be convenient, because it is with the help of valves on it that one or another branch (section) is turned off. And sometimes it needs to be done quickly, so the passage to the collector must always be free.

And one more recommendation from experts. All elements of the plumbing system of a private house must be cut off with shutoff valves. For example, valves must be installed before and after the accumulator. With their help, the section on which the tank is installed is cut off so that it is easy to repair this tank. All the same applies to other devices and devices.

Pump station with water treatment system

Before you make water distribution in a private house, you need to understand that the plumbing system is an engineering structure. Therefore, it is very important to properly install it. And you need to start from the selection of pipes, a pump, a hydraulic accumulator and other elements. Do not forget about the filters through which the water will pass, leaving various contaminants and impurities inside. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to conduct a water analysis when it comes to water intake from a well or well. And the cleaner it is in them, the fewer filters will need to be installed.

As for the wiring itself, it is not very difficult to carry out the installation of pipelines according to the intended scheme. The main thing is to be able to use the tools and equipment that is used to connect pipes. And since most often the pipe wiring is assembled from plastic pipes, the technology of their connection is so simple that even a beginner can handle it. But, when doing the wiring of water in the house with your own hands, you need to understand that everything must be done strictly according to the scheme, plus - take into account the tightness of the connection. That is why after the complete assembly of the water pipe, it should be pressure tested. This is when pressurized water is pumped into the system. By the way, the pressure of the pump itself will be residual in order to carry out this control process.

What you need to pay attention to

Finally, a few tips from experts:

The fewer joints in the piping, the less likely there are leaks. That is, in this way, it is possible to increase the reliability of the water supply system as a whole.
If a serial wiring system is used, then you can increase the pressure in the network if you install a large diameter pipe at the very beginning of the water supply.
Do not use flexible hose connections in the system.
Install equipment in rooms with a positive temperature. This refers to pumps and storage tanks.
Pipes can be laid in a hidden way, sinking them into walls or floors, or open. In the second option, it is necessary to use reliable fasteners in the form of clamps.
In the DHW system, a drain cock must be installed in front of the heating device. The sump will be drained through it. A safety valve is also installed here. Its purpose is to relieve pressure in the hot water supply system if the boiler boils and the water in it turns into steam.

Piped plumbing in a two-story house

The issue of replacing and adjusting the plumbing system in a home often confronts people who decide to repair. The reason may be the redevelopment of the bathroom, the replacement of old pipes, etc. For such work, you do not need to certify the documentation in the regulatory authorities, and you can even do without the services of professional plumbers. The owner can do the plumbing in the house or apartment with his own hands. It is important to have the necessary tools, a minimum set of skills, as well as draw up a clear action plan and prepare a water supply scheme.

Plumbing in the apartment: what you need to know before installation

First of all, analyze your goals and objectives: what should be the rooms with plumbing, how and where the pipes will run approximately, how much time, effort and money you are willing to spend on updating the wiring. The system can be of two types:

Attention! You only risk learning about a leak from a water pipe immured in the wall from your neighbors.

For self-distribution of water supply at home, pipes made of plastic or metal-plastic are usually chosen. Cast iron, copper are not used because of the difficulties with their cutting, welding and other manipulations. Metal-plastic pipes are the best option for plumbing. But more often choose plastic. They are no less reliable and easy to install, and their low thermal conductivity is great for hot water supply (DHW).

Advice. Among plastics, polypropylene is the most successful option. True, for the connection you need a special welding device.

How to draw a diagram

The plumbing layout determines where, how and through pipes of what diameter the water will flow in your house. Compliance with standard installation methods will ensure proper and safe water supply. A sequential or tee scheme - one pipe is removed from the main, and all water consumers in the house are connected to it in turn. For cold water supply (HVS), experts recommend doing this:

The 1st tee-outlet is directed to the faucet or shower with a tap in the bathroom;
2nd - on the sink, dishwasher and (if the second unit is located in the kitchen);
3rd - on the toilet drain;
further - to the boiler and to the washing machine in the bathroom.

Attention! Hot water is bred in approximately the same way: a bathroom, and then a kitchen. Toilet, boiler, washing machine do not need hot water. Do not forget to install a non-return valve on the main cold water pipe. Otherwise, hot water will go the way for cold water.

The circuit is easy to install: each of the consumers is connected to the supply pipe using a tee. A significant disadvantage of this method is a different level of pressure. If several points of water consumption are working at the same time, the last one will have the lowest pressure. But this is solvable. Another drawback: during the repair of one of the elements of the system, you will have to turn off the water supply for everyone.

Comparison of tee and manifold schemes

The collector scheme assumes that the intermediary supplies water from the main conduit to the collector. All consumers of water are connected to it. The device provides equal pressure for everyone. A ball valve is mounted on each outlet pipe, which allows you to repair part of the system without compromising the performance of the rest. Wiring according to this scheme requires more space, as well as an increase in the number of pipes, taps and various connections and connectors. As a result, the option will cost the homeowner more.

Attention! It is problematic to hide the collector wiring of the water supply in the wall. You can disguise it in the floor, but the collector itself must remain open and have easy access.

Installation of domestic water supply from metal-plastic

After preparing the scheme, calculate how much and what materials you will need. It is better to buy everything with a small margin. The metal-plastic pipe bends. However, before the junction, it must have a flat area of at least 5-7 cm. They are commutated by the press method or using compression fittings.

The second option is suitable only for an open type of water supply:

measure and cut the pipe;
chamfer it with a special calibrator;
put the fitting nut on the pipe;
insert the ring, and then the fitting itself;
crimp with a pair of open end wrenches.

The weak point of this type of connection is leakage. Pipes must be inspected, the fitting must be tightened at least once a year.

Press clutch is performed as follows:

cut the pipes to the required length;
calibrate;
put on the fitting and press it with a hand press. This connection is considered more reliable, but not collapsible.

How to make plumbing from plastic pipes

For connection using polypropylene pipes, it is best to take samples with a cross-sectional diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 cm (for hot water - 3.2 cm). Perform work in the following sequence:

cut strictly perpendicular with special scissors;
mark the welding depth at the edges, which depends on the fitting;
remove the middle layer of the pipe with a trimmer by 1-2 mm;
prepare the welding machine with the appropriate nozzle;
cooking takes about 7 seconds. at a temperature of about 250°C;
welding should be started when the device heats up (the indicator goes out);
slide the desired places on the pipes and the fitting onto the nozzle of the device, do not scroll;
also, without scrolling, carefully and quickly connect the pipes or the pipe with the fitting to each other, pushing each other.

Wait a minute to cool. If the welding seam turned out to be not perpendicular or unreliable, it can be cut and the procedure repeated again.

Installation of plumbing at any stage of the process is best done with an assistant. The result depends on the accuracy of the calculations and the accuracy of the work.

Plumbing installation: video

Our topic today is the distribution of water supply and sewerage in an apartment. We have to get acquainted with the regulatory requirements for these engineering systems, find out what materials can be used for their installation and how to properly perform this installation. So, let's go.

Areas of responsibility

Who is responsible for the condition of the sewerage and water supply in the apartment?

However: SP 30.13330.2012 prescribes the use of materials for water distribution with a service life of at least 50 years for cold water and 25 years for hot water. This instruction is relevant for all buildings under construction and for old buildings put up for major repairs.

Regulatory requirements

What regulatory documents regulate the installation of sewerage and water supply in an apartment, and what are the requirements for these systems?

The requirements for internal engineering networks are set out in SNiP 2.04.01-85, however, during the design and installation, an updated version of the document is used - the notorious set of rules SP 30.13330.2012.

Here are excerpts from his text, one way or another affecting the distribution of water and sewerage in the apartment.

Water pipes

For distributing drinking water, you can use materials that have a hygienic certificate;

For hot water, it is necessary to use pipes with a temperature resistance of at least +75 degrees. It is up to this value that the temperature in the DHW system can rise;

Author's note: in houses with hot water supply directly from the heating network (that is, in the vast majority of Soviet-built buildings), a situation may arise when the water temperature rises to 100 degrees or more. To do this, it is enough not to switch it from the supply to the return pipeline with the onset of cold weather.

Towel dryers must be connected to the risers of the DHW circulation system. In this case, the dryer must be equipped with shut-off valves and a bypass;
The water pressure in the pipes can reach 6 atmospheres;

It is worth clarifying: for new buildings, the maximum allowable pressure value is lower - 4.5 kgf / cm2. Up to 6 kgf / cm2 it can rise in the water supply system of a building erected in the conditions of the existing development.

Water distribution in the apartment can be open and hidden. At the same time, serviced connections of pipes and fittings (including threaded ones) cannot be hidden;
With the joint installation of sewerage and water supply, sewer pipes are laid below;
When installing hot water and cold water pipes together, pipes with cold water are laid below;

Long DHW pipes made of polymeric materials must be equipped with compensators (bends and sliding clamps that prevent pipe deformation due to elongation during heating);
Pipes with which water supply is diluted must have constant hydraulic resistance throughout the entire period of operation;

Hint: on the practical side, this requirement means that you cannot dilute water with black steel pipes. Rust and lime accumulate on the inner surface of their walls, limiting the throughput of the water supply and reducing the water pressure.

Shutoff valves must be installed at the water inlet to the apartment;

Cold water and hot water connections must be equipped with water meters (they are placed at the entrance to the apartment after the taps);
There must be a filter (mechanical or magnetic-mechanical) in front of the water meter;
The water meter must be equipped with a check valve installed before or after it;

The standard diameter of an apartment meter with a water consumption of up to 10 cubic meters per day is 15 mm.

Sewerage

Sewer pipes must not be installed with deformation or tension. For bends and turns of the comb, you should use a style (corners, half-bends, etc.);
It is desirable to make connections to the outlet comb for connecting plumbing fixtures with oblique corners and tees;

In areas of sewerage limited by turns, tees or revisions should be installed to clear blockages (if cleaning is not possible through outlets for connecting plumbing fixtures);
Sewerage is laid with a constant slope (0.02 for a diameter of 100-110 mm and 0.03 for a diameter of 50 mm).

Wiring diagram

What is the difference between tee and collector wiring of water supply?

Tee involves a series connection of points of water intake to a common pipe. In the case of collector (beam) wiring, each device is connected to a common collector with its own supply.

Which layout is more practical?

If we forget about the large material consumption and the need for hidden wiring of a large number of pipes - collector. It removes the problem of pressure drop on all devices when parsing water through one of them.

If you open a cold water faucet in the kitchen, the cry of a spouse scalded with boiling water will not come from the bathroom, full of bitterness and pain.

The video in this article will more clearly acquaint you with how the layout of the apartment's water supply is carried out.

Pipes

with your own hands?

The answer depends on ... the heating scheme of the house.

In buildings with an open heat supply scheme (with elevator units), hot water is taken from the heating network. In winter, the supply temperature of the heating main can reach 150 degrees. If a forgetful plumber does not switch the hot water supply to the return line, pipes designed for a maximum temperature of 90-95 degrees will make a strong protest: your apartment can simply be flooded with boiling water.

Note: if the water supply was installed with materials not provided for by the apartment's registration certificate, you will automatically find yourself the only culprit of flooding.

Image	Description
	The zinc layer protects the steel from corrosion and eliminates the appearance of deposits on the walls. Installation of galvanized eyeliner is carried out only on threaded connections: during welding, low-melting zinc evaporates, and the weld begins to rust.
	Copper. Copper combines the highest strength (destructive pressure is estimated at 200 or more atmospheres), heat resistance and bactericidal properties. For installation, solder fittings, as well as compression and press fittings, can be used.
	Stainless. With a wall thickness of only 0.3 mm, they are not inferior to a copper pipe in strength (destructive pressure declared for corrugated stainless steel by Lavita is 210 atmospheres) and heat resistance (let's heat up to 150 degrees). In addition, the pipes are extremely easy to install on compression fittings and can be easily bent with a minimum radius. The only disadvantage of the material is a rather high hydraulic resistance due to the corrugated walls.

In houses with autonomous hot water supply or with water supply to the DHW system from heat exchangers, the water temperature and its pressure are much more controlled and stable. Here you can use any modern materials, without looking back at the margin of strength and heat resistance.

Here are the key features of the most popular types of pipes:

Image	Description
	Polypropylene - probably the most popular material for plumbing. They are attracted by a combination of durability with ease of installation and low cost of the pipes and fittings themselves. Socket welding is used to connect pipes and fittings.
	Made of heat-resistant (PERT) and cross-linked (PEX) polyethylene. They are supplied in coils and are primarily used for concealed water collector distribution. PEX are connected by fittings using the material's inherent shape memory and compression fittings, PERT - socket welded fittings.
	Metal-plastic. In their production, modifications of polyethylene are used - PERT and PEX, and an aluminum core increases the tensile strength of the pipeline. During installation, compression, press and push fittings are used.

A few nuances related to the choice and use of materials:

On hot water supply, they are usually used with a reinforcing layer - fiber or aluminum foil. Reinforcement increases the tensile strength of the water pipe and significantly reduces its elongation at high temperatures;

The aluminum reinforcement needs to be stripped before welding to the fitting. Without stripping, electrochemical corrosion of aluminum can lead to pipe delamination;

When installing metal-plastic, it is very important to use a calibrator. An unevenly cut and uncalibrated pipe, when connected to a fitting, squeezes out the sealing rings of the latter from the grooves, and the connection leaks after a short time.

Please note: the problem occurs only on hot water. Cold forgives even the grossest errors in the installation of metal-plastic pipes.

What pipes are used for sewerage?

PVC and polypropylene. The latter have a higher heat resistance (80 degrees versus 65); otherwise there is no practical difference between them. Connections of pipes and fittings - bell-shaped, with ring seals.

Useful: plastic sewer pipes conduct sound much better than cast-iron pipes used in the recent past. If you do not want to know the schedule for visiting the toilet by the neighbors from above, choose the so-called silent sewer - pipes made of plastic with mineral filler. They are easily recognizable by their white color.

Clips and adjustable clamps are used for open installation of sewerage on the wall. The fastening step should be no more than 10 pipe diameters: with a larger step, it will sag over time and form a constantly clogged area with a negative slope.

What is the typical diameter of water and sewer pipes?

Familiar in the homes of our childhood, steel pipes are marked with a conditional passage, which approximately corresponds to the inner diameter and indicates the size of the attached pipe thread. For distributing water around the apartment, pipes of the size DU15, or 1/2 inch, were used. The same diameter can have a copper or corrugated stainless eyeliner.

Modern polymer and metal-plastic pipes are marked with a different size - the outer diameter. Accordingly, their size should be one step larger - at least 20 mm.

The toilet bowl is connected to the sewer riser with a 110 mm pipe or fitting. The remaining plumbing fixtures are attached to a 50 mm comb.

fittings

What kind of fittings will require wiring in the apartment of water supply systems?

In addition to fittings for connecting pipes and connecting plumbing fixtures, you may need:

Image	Description
	Ball Valves. This is the most fail-safe type of valves. Taps are mounted on the water inlet to the apartment and on the supply to the drain tank, and if necessary - in front of each plumbing fixture.
	Coarse filters. They retain sand and large suspensions carried by tap water. Filters are placed at the inlet, immediately after the taps, and significantly increase the life of mixers (first of all, devices with cartridges and ceramic taps, which are very sensitive to water quality).
	Water meters. Metering devices must have a diameter of 15 mm and be verified. After installation, the meter is sealed by a representative of the organization supplying water.
	Pressure reducers. They are useful not only when the pressure in the water supply network consistently exceeds the norm, but also as protection against water hammer.
	Check valves. They, as mentioned above, are placed before or after the counters.
	When autonomously preparing water in a boiler, you will need a safety group for it - safety and check valves combined in one housing. This device prevents the water heated by the boiler from draining into the water supply during cold water shutdowns and limits the pressure increase in the tank due to an increase in the volume of water when it is heated, dumping its excess into the drain.

Conclusion

We hope that we were able to answer all the questions that are relevant to the dear reader. Good luck!

Independent wiring of hot and cold water pipes in an apartment or house is not an easy task, but real. Even if you are going to hire a specialist, you should know the main points yourself - control will not hurt.

Today, in most cases, piping in the bathroom is made of polymer pipes - polypropylene for plumbing, PVC for sewage

How to develop a plumbing layout

First, determine the places where all consumers of cold and hot water will be located. It is better to do everything on the plan, but you can also mark it “on the spot”. Not only the geometric dimensions of the devices are important, but also the exact location of the place where the water must be brought.

Draw a plan with dimensions and distances - the first step

Many devices are connected to the water supply network using flexible hoses. Then the outlet from the line can end 10-20 cm before the device. The main thing is that the connection point is easily accessible. This is necessary for convenient and fast connection maintenance. This connection method is easier to implement - there is no need to accurately calculate the length of the pipe.

There is also a hard water supply to plumbing fixtures or household appliances - pipes to the very entrance. Such a connection is more difficult to perform, therefore this type of wiring is less common. Basically, gas water heaters (columns), bathroom faucets that are attached to the wall are connected this way.

Outdoor or concealed laying

First of all, it is worth deciding on the type of pipe laying - will they go on top or hidden in a wall or floor. Hidden wiring in the bathroom, toilet is good from an aesthetic point of view - nothing is visible. But the pipes are not available, to fix the leak you will have to break the wall, which is not at all pleasing. Therefore, they try to lay only whole pieces without joints in the wall - there is less chance of leakage.

There is another difficulty with the hidden laying of water supply - the need for channels in the wall (strobe) into which pipes are laid. Firstly, not every wall allows you to make strobes in it. For example, in panel houses, where the wall thickness is only about 10 cm, it is definitely not worth making a channel 5-6 cm deep. The slab will lose a significant part of its bearing capacity. What it threatens to explain, probably, it is not necessary. Secondly, laying a strobe in the wall is not the easiest job, even with a puncher it takes a lot of time. So there are more than enough cons for this option.

Another type of hidden pipe connection is behind a false wall. To do this, stepping back some distance from the main wall, a frame is installed, and drywall is placed on it, on which tiles are then laid. The second option for false walls is made of plastic panels.

From a practical point of view, external piping is better - everything is in sight, available for repair at any time. But the aesthetic side suffers. To hide communications, all of them - water supply and sewerage - are trying to lay closer to the floor, then they build on a plasterboard box with a removable lid or top. So all the pipes have free access, and they themselves are almost invisible.

Laying method

In an apartment or house, plumbing is done in two ways - by connecting all consumers in series or by installing a collector, from which a separate pipe goes to each of the devices. Both options are not without drawbacks.

When pipes are connected in series, it takes little, but if more than two plumbing fixtures are connected in a row, the pressure may be insufficient when they work simultaneously. This type of wiring is also called a tee - all branches from the main main pipe are made using tees (sometimes crosses or corners).

With the collector wiring of the water supply system, a lot of pipes go away, in addition, additional equipment is required - a collector for the water supply system. So this piping scheme is an expensive undertaking, but the pressure on all connected devices, regardless of the number of workers, is the same.

Parallel connection - each device has its own line from the collector

There is one more nuance: a large number of pipes have to be laid somewhere, and compactly, and this is not at all easy. Therefore, this type of wiring is more often used for hidden or open laying, but in those places that require such a connection or can be closed by furniture.

For example, in a bathroom or toilet, only two devices are connected. There you can do serial wiring. In the kitchen, a column (boiler), a sink faucet, a washing machine and a dishwasher are connected. In this case, it makes sense to put a collector in the kitchen, and from it separate branches of water supply to all consumers. This connection method is called mixed - part of the water supply is diluted with tees, part - from the collector.

Please note that if cold and hot water are distributed at the same time, the pipelines are laid in parallel. With a hidden liner, it makes sense to wrap the DHW liner in thermal insulation - then the water will really be hot and you will not heat the walls. If the pipes are polypropylene or plastic, this is not so critical - polymers have a low heat transfer coefficient. For metal (any - steel, stainless steel, galvanized, copper), thermal insulation is very desirable.

Piping: rules

As in any business, plumbing has its own rules. They are also used for plumbing. If you are going to do the plumbing for yourself, it’s up to you to follow them or not, but it’s better to do everything right. The rules have their own logic, which is followed by the majority:

If you look closely, you will see that most of the water pipes are made according to these rules.

Which plumbing pipes are best

It is impossible to say unequivocally which pipes are best for wiring - there is no ideal material, there are more or less suitable for these conditions. Let's dwell on the most popular options, their advantages and disadvantages:

Polypropylene pipes

The option is good for everyone, except for a large thermal expansion - up to 5 cm per 1 meter, and this is a lot. With a long route, it is necessary to install a compensator or use reinforced pipes. They have much less thermal expansion, but the prices are higher. For hot water, it is definitely necessary to use reinforced pipes, but with fiberglass or foil - it's up to you. The distribution of cold water pipes can be done with a conventional PPR pipe for cold water - here thermal expansion is not so critical.

Polypropylene pipes for plumbing - an excellent choice

Another point that is relevant if you do the work yourself, you are going to do a hidden laying of communications - the quality of the connections. In principle, there is nothing complicated, but without experience you can “screw up”, as a result, after a while the connection may leak. In the absence of experience in welding polypropylene, it is very undesirable to hide the joints under the finish. In this case, it is better to choose an open laying method.

The layout of polypropylene pipes in the bathroom and toilet has many positive aspects:

a correctly made connection turns out to be monolithic;
there is no narrowing of the pipeline diameters in the places of soldering;
high maintainability;
long service life;
ease of installation.

In general, it is not for nothing that this material has been so popular lately.

PVC for plumbing

When laying PVC pipes, an adhesive joint is used. There is a special glue that dissolves the top layer of the polymer. Both parts to be glued are lubricated with it, pressed against one another and held for some time. As a result, the connection is almost monolithic, strong and reliable.

There are two types of connection: butt, when two pipe sections are joined and using fittings. Fittings are easier to work with, but the joints are narrower. With a butt joint, there are no narrowings, but it is much more difficult to make it qualitatively.

In principle, all the pros and cons are the same here, a few minuses are added - it is only suitable for transporting cold environments - no more than + 40 ° C, that is, other pipes will have to be used for hot water supply. Scratches and chips reduce the strength of the pipe, therefore, a threaded connection is excluded.

metal-plastic

The layout of the water supply from metal-plastic pipes is also suitable for hot water supply - it can withstand temperatures up to + 105 ° C. A positive difference from all of the above is its high plasticity - these pipes can be bent with a fairly small radius. This simplifies and reduces the cost of installation (fittings are expensive).

Metal-plastic - not the best choice

The disadvantage of using metal-plastic pipes for plumbing is a strong narrowing at the joints - in fittings. This results in a significant pressure drop in the system. This is what limits their use.

Circuit examples

The piping in each apartment, even in a typical house, is individual - plumbing and household appliances are arranged differently, of course, the scheme will be different. In reality, everything is not so complicated, you just need to decide on the main parameters of the circuit - where you need to supply water and the type of wiring - will you pull in parallel or in series. Further, everything is dictated by the position of consumers. To make it a little easier, let's add a few more diagrams and photos.

The peculiarity of this scheme is that a thicker pipe from the hot water supply goes to the heated towel rail. This is done to ensure the best heating.

Example of serial wiring - equipment at the entrance to the apartment to increase security

With hidden installation of water pipes, part of the pipes can be hidden in the floor. It will be impossible to repair them, but they are beautiful ...