How to make water distribution in a private house. Layout of water supply pipes in an apartment from a to z Do-it-yourself water supply wiring in an apartment

Rotted old plumbing in the apartment. Perspiration on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water, and then turn it on again - rust is gushing from the taps. And it is planned to repair the kitchen with a bathroom, and the old pipes are not something to touch or breathe - it's scary to look at them. We need to change, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment plumbing with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits-designs. It will only be necessary to agree with the DEZ locksmith to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; most likely, it will be possible to manage in 10 minutes. Or warn the neighbors, if not harmful, and block / re-apply yourself.

Replacement procedure

The replacement of the water supply is carried out in a certain sequence. Work "by eye" and "on the go" in non-professional performance often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

1. Choice of material for new pipes.
2. Choice of hot and cold water distribution scheme.
3. Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
4. Calculation of the diameter of pipes according to the selected material and scheme.
5. Preparation of the mounting tool.
6. Purchase of materials.
7. Assembly of selection and accounting units, their installation on risers and registration.
8. Dismantling of old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
9. Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
10. Connecting a flask filter (with HMS is required).
11. Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
12. Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
13. Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
14. Installation and connection of the boiler.

HMS, flask filter and aquastop

HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, converts impurities in water into a fine suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply and maintenance during operation, but it necessarily requires the installation of a water meter in an antimagnetic design (these are more expensive) and, after the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first one collects sludge, the second one removes chlorine, and the third one is used for fine purification of water and its softening. The latter (no one has been drinking tap water for a long time) is especially important for the washing machine boiler.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect well not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - do not be indignant, and drinking water is firmly held in the ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs that can bring its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not foreseen. In general, the salvation of drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply and maintenance, but its function is different. With a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. Aquastops come in different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an anti-magnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new plumbing in an apartment begins with the choice of pipes. Steel in everyday life has become obsolete, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and brazed copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most responsible - the wrong choice will nullify all the efforts, expenses and troubles.

Copper

One can say about copper water pipes right away: their propagandists do not know what they are talking about. Or they know, but they don’t set themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, a person needs copper, but in negligible amounts in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper forms a protective film with chlorine from water. Absurd for anyone who remembers at least school chemistry.

Secondly, the composition of the solder for copper includes tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into its other, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, a crumbly powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And the payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly on your own.

metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes are quite expensive, but they can be connected by hand without experience. Metal-plastic plumbing is assembled on special threaded assemblies with gaskets or under crimping - fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure loss in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert a pipe into a fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press tongs and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, work goes effortlessly, and with improvised means - a full guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time, the joint begins to drip. Therefore, bricking metal-plastic into walls is unacceptable, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in strobes.

It is recommended to conduct water supply with metal-plastic in separate open areas, where the minimum resistance to water flow and the possibility of a simple and quick bulkhead of the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment plumbing has now become the standard, but plastics are different. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Holds temperatures up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Pretty expensive. Used for underfloor heating.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water, polyethylene reinforced pipes are needed; ordinary polyethylene does not hold 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so that there is a possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the smallest of all.

It seems that polyethylene pipes are bad for everyone, but they have an advantage that can be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice cork bursts them, and when it melts, they shrink again, and do not burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of a polyethylene water supply system is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground premises. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is needed.

PVC (PVC)

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very strong and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, come out more brittle than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and an aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC, of ​​course, is more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: heating the joint with a household hair dryer, the joint can be separated, and then glued again. In general, the option is budgetary or for a novice master with a length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest draw point of no more than 10 m and with no more than 7 sampling points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying an apartment water supply with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, properly soldered holds up to 12 atm. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but anyway, the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. There are only two disadvantages when doing it yourself:

• It does not stick, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
• It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. Immured in a wall or hidden in a strobe, it can bend and break the tile, therefore, when laying each pipe, you need to put on a stocking made of merylon or synthetic winterizer, which increases the cost of work.

However, the propylene pipeline is by far the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten. Therefore, we will dwell on the soldering of propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in a lower temperature (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Propylene soldering

Soldering propylene with a handicraft “iron” soldering iron end-to-end (see the figure on the right) is unacceptable:

1. Pollution accumulates on the “sausage” inside, and the pipeline assembled in this way is more prone to clogging than steel.
2. The pressure of the water, bursting the pipes, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is surpassed, and the joint flows.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out on fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), angular, tees, crosses. The pipe heated to softening is inserted into the holder of the also heated fitting, and the joint freezes. In this case, water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the casing from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing remains for the fused zone. The rather high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clip covering the pipe to expand elastically. It is this design of the connection, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for immuring into walls for decades.

Note: a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is still unsuitable for something, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, you do not need to buy it, it is better to rent it.

• For hidden wiring in a typical apartment in strobes or monolithic - definitely propylene.
• For branches of great length with a large number of points of water intake - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers.
• For country houses, seasonal rental housing, country houses with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. - polyethylene.
• For budget repairs or in areas with a shortage of water, low pressure in the water supply, with poor quality water - PVC.

Wiring diagram

Collectors-combs

There are two schemes for drawing water in the premises: serial and parallel. With a serial scheme, the points of analysis are connected to a common pipe through tees. This scheme is the most economical, but with a long wiring length, a large number of parsing points and / or with low water pressure, it is not suitable, as it greatly reduces pressure.

In this case, the water intake is done in parallel from the “comb” collector, see fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its point of analysis. The valves regulate the pressure separately by points. The branches to the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in a single piece, they are quite reliable.

Development of a water intake scheme

The water supply scheme in the apartment is needed primarily for oneself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate, and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask you to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules is a serious job for a knowledgeable specialist; for example - in the large figure, the water supply scheme of a private house with a summer kitchen, which is necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace the pipes in the apartment, you don’t need to bother like that, it’s enough that the diagram clearly shows and understands:

1. Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
2. Metering devices.
3. Emergency valves and drains.
4. Stop valve.
5. Points of analysis with indication of consumers.
6. Backup branches and devices.
7. Direction of water flow.

To make all this clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be observed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see fig. On the left - more or less okay, but with comments, on the right - wrong:

• The scheme on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe real location of the analysis points: the washing machine with the boiler comes out under the floor.
• There are also too many current arrows where it is already clear where it flows, which also confuses the circuit.
• In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted indistinctly and not according to the rules.
• In the same place - the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
• In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the ebb?
• But in the diagram on the left, it is not even clear to a specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup. The remark will be: “Where is the check valve for hot? Without it, when the supply is stopped, the boiler will drive its own into the hot riser if the valve (10) is not closed. But this is already in essence and with full understanding.

Correct simplified plumbing scheme in the apartment

An example is arbitrarily, not according to the rules for designing design documentation, but completely understandable and without frills, the completed water intake scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of a parallel drawdown; where the combs, of course.

Pipe calculation

Before finally choosing pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not necessary for "smartness" - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, a too small diameter pipe for a water supply will cause turbulence in the flow in it. At the same time, the throughput of the pipe drops sharply, and at normal pressure at the inlet from the tap it will barely ooze.

The exact calculation of the pipeline is a matter of highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, in order to flow normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is as follows:

1. The minimum allowable pressure is 0.3 at.
2. Pressure loss per 1 m of a 16 mm propylene pipe - 0.05 at.
3. The average pressure loss for apartment wiring per unit of fittings and fittings is 0.15 at.
4. Pressure loss in the selection and accounting unit - 0.25 at.
5. With normal values ​​​​of pressure at the inlet to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm, periodic turbulence is inevitable in a 12 mm pipe, and is not observed in 16 mm pipes.
6. The headroom for the farthest point is at least two times.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with the serial wiring of such a running pipe, there will be enough pressure for the farthest faucet or you will have to take it wider and more expensive. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from the pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate for neighbors based on the same 0.6 at / floor: if, say, three floors up from the taps, it still flows, then we have a good 2 at. But in high-rise buildings, such a trick does not work: in order not to overly increase the cost of apartment wiring, they make separate risers for the lower and upper, and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: the second floor of a nine-story building; the residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 at pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm of losses. Too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take the main pipe 20-25 mm, or get divorced in parallel from the comb, otherwise you can stay “dry” in the dry summer.

Note: from this it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable they are to lengthen and clutter up with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is non-linear: they depend on the flow velocity, which, in turn, depends on the cross section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe drastically reduces losses, so the usual 20 mm pipe wiring for apartments with taps to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) ". Correct - SNiP last.

Tools, materials, dismantling of the old

Special tools for assembling apartment pipelines are described above in the course of the presentation. For the purchase of materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity in place. Dismantling of old pipes is done in the usual way. It is better to do it after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off the water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not take valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you need to urgently close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. Round corrugated handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slide on them.

Accounting and control

The selection and accounting unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each of the devices indicates the direction of the water flow for it, it must be observed during assembly.

The assembly is assembled with waterproofing of the connections with the FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having previously blocked the water; Remember to close the shut-off valve before supplying water. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, requiring turning off the water supply to neighbors in the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. The meter readings should be clearly readable without any additional operations (hatch removal, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble a part of an integral pipeline, sometimes of a rather bizarre configuration, to connect metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, this will require transitional couplings from plastic to metal MPV - a threaded inner coupling. Plastic is connected to metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

The meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water at the expense. The factory seal is for this (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one gets into the meter and twists or files anything there. The factory seal must be protected; without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

When installing water meters, you need to declare to the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives, the inspector does not need zero readings, he will write down the initial ones, seal the meter and drain the filter with his seal. Payment for water consumption will go after registration of metering devices.

HMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow stealing water with its help, and this device cannot be sealed, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter impeller can become clogged with sludge. HMS with a flask filter is connected after metering devices; filter - immediately after HMS. An aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but it makes no sense to attribute the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: an overview of the layout options for plumbing elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we do the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has non-construction features, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should pass no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before starting pipe laying.

First of all, you need to install arcs - plastic strips with MRV squares for mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws in dowels. When attaching, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without a lot of building experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet nozzles flush with the wall. It is better to make them PROPERTIES above the finished wall half the width of the side of the decorative mixer caps in advance: if the caps are unregulated, they can be easily adjusted on an emery wheel or manually on an emery bar.

The next moment is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble it on the table and put it entirely in strobes. But then the question arises: how to run pipes through walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all on detachable fittings, and for brazed pipes, two methods can be offered:

• With the help of MPH / MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment, this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the strobes, removable hatches can be made for revision and repair of threaded connections.
• Install pipelines locally. This requires a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work in cotton gloves so as not to accidentally burn yourself.

Careful pre-planning must be carried out before any major overhaul. Plumbing deserves special attention. Installation errors lead to serious troubles, up to a global restructuring of communications. Before starting work, you should decide on the type of wiring, the necessary materials and study the basic rules of the assembly process.

The main types of plumbing systems

Depending on how communications are available for repair, the following types of systems are distinguished:

In the second case, it is rather difficult to find out about the leak that has arisen - usually the neighbors from below are the first to notice this, if any.

Failure of a closed system may result in the destruction or deformation of the outer coating.

Delivery of water to the consumer from the main pipeline can be carried out in several ways:

• collector water supply - a method of parallel connection, in which each element has its own connection to the collector;
• tee scheme - all elements are connected to a common line in series through tees.

The manifold scheme, as well as the tee distribution of water supply, has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Features of the tee scheme

The essence of this method of distributing the water supply system is the serial connection of the elements of plumbing communications in the apartment, that is, one pipeline leads from the riser, to which other devices that consume water are connected through tees.

Advantages of the tee method:

• cost savings - the number of connecting fittings is reduced to a minimum;
• simple installation work.

The method has its drawbacks:

• difficult search for leaks due to the large number of connections;
• high probability of a change in the pressure level of the system, and consequently a decrease in the current pressure of water in pipelines remote from the riser;
• when repairing, it is required to turn off the entire water supply;
• inconvenient installation of water supply in the apartment, when the room has a small area.

Several nearby points of consumption reduce the risk of pressure surges. During installation, as a rule, a hidden installation of tees is chosen, which makes it difficult to inspect and repair communications.

Features of the collector circuit

The collector scheme for distributing water supply pipes in an apartment allows you to connect a decent number of consumption points without lowering the pressure in each. This method involves the parallel connection of elements to the collector by means of a personal outlet with a valve.

The advantages of this connection method:

• simple troubleshooting;
• constant value of pressure on all connected equipment;
• high reliability due to the small number of connections;
• aesthetic appearance is ensured by the fact that the connection lines can simply be hidden in special boxes or niches;
• the ability to turn off the water supply on a separate branch in order to repair the plumbing system in the apartment.

The disadvantages of the method include:

• for laying the system, it is necessary to purchase a large number of connecting fittings;
• installation complexity.

Collector water supply optimizes the operation of all devices of consumers of water supply.

A filter and a pressure regulator can be installed on any individual outlet, if desired.

Necessary equipment

Typical plumbing wiring consists of a number of mandatory elements necessary for the normal operation of communications. Most of them are located in a plumbing cabinet, which, in turn, is mounted next to the line entry area.

A standard plumbing device in an apartment includes the following list of necessary elements:

• Indigenous shut-off valves - used to separate networks from common brownies. The element performs two tasks - opening and blocking the flow of water. In most cases, a conventional ball valve from a trusted manufacturer is sufficient.
  
• Regulating devices - pressure reducers, as well as check valves. The task of the former is to limit the pressure of the local network and protect against water hammer.
  
  
  Check valves are used to set the direction of water flow. The device prevents the liquid from draining into the line, as well as stopping its supply.
  
• Collectors distributors - any collector water supply system of a private house contains this element. Structurally, the models differ in the number of outlets (at least 2) and the diameter of the nozzles.
  
• Filtration units - include coarse and fine filters, as well as a hydromagnetic system (transfers part of the impurities from water into colloidal suspensions).
  
• Metering devices - a specific model and installation method are agreed with the management company. The meters, depending on the type, are manufactured with universal or horizontal mounting.
  
• Pressure gauges - it is recommended to install at the inlet and after the filters. Pressure surges can be used to diagnose the wear of screens or cartridges.
  
• Connecting fittings - the successful laying of water supply pipes in an apartment requires experience and preliminary calculations.

Additionally, emergency equipment for protection against leaks can be mounted. Such equipment is carried out either with a mechanical or electromechanical drive.

How to draw a water supply scheme in an apartment?

First you need to decide on the connection method - serial or parallel laying of communications. After that, it is necessary to compile a list of all devices that are planned to be included in it. A well-designed diagram will help to accurately calculate the footage of pipes and the number of different fittings. In addition, installation time is significantly reduced, and the risk of errors is reduced.

Specialists in the calculation of schemes use specialized standards. If possible, it is recommended to order work from professionals, but if necessary, you can draw up a scheme yourself. In the final plan, the following items must be indicated:

• location of water pipes;
• stop valves;
• direction of water flow;
• emergency valves and drains;
• parsing points indicating each consumer;
• metering devices;
• backup branches and equipment.

Pipeline calculation

Before you make the piping in the apartment, you should calculate the diameter of the pipeline, which depends on the maximum pressure at the end point. The calculation is based on the following factors:

• the minimum allowable pressure value at the end user is 0.3 atm;
• each meter of a plastic pipe (diameter 16 mm) loses 0.05 atm;
• each fitting and armature reduces pressure by 0.15 atm;
• 0.25 atm is lost in the accounting node.

An excessively small diameter can cause turbulence in the water flow.

At a remote point, a double margin should be provided. The pressure on the riser can be read from the pressure gauge, which is usually installed in the basement of the building. Each floor of the building reduces the value by about 0.6 atm. Some high-rise buildings are equipped with a separate riser for separate groups of floors. All figures given are approximate and directly depend on the specific model of equipment.

Typical installation errors

Installing a water supply system in an apartment with your own hands in accordance with all modern standards is quite a difficult task for a non-specialist. To avoid most mistakes, professionals recommend:

• put shut-off valves at the inlet to each branch of the system and in front of plumbing equipment;
• insulate hot water pipes if hidden installation is planned in ceilings or floors;
• during installation, close the openings of uninstalled pipes;
• carry out soldering in a clean room;
• check pipes for moisture and dirt before soldering;
• do not block access to the connecting sections of the system with water supply.

Following these tips will greatly facilitate the maintenance and repair of communications.

Conclusion

Installing a water supply system in an apartment is a non-trivial task, which is quite difficult to solve without prior planning. Properly drawn up communication scheme, well-thought-out structure of the bathroom, as well as high-quality materials and equipment guarantee the success of the entire event. Careful design significantly reduces the risk of failure and the likelihood of repairs in subsequent years.

Nowadays, it is possible to install an autonomous water supply system in a private house, which significantly increases the comfort of living. Now there is no need to carry heavy buckets and heat water in a basin to take water procedures. If the water supply is installed in a building under construction, it is possible to take into account all the wishes at the design stage, and its implementation will be much easier. If the building has been erected and has been in operation for a long time, then arranging a water supply is more difficult, but possible.

Schematic arrangement of plumbing in the house

The layout of the water supply in a private house that is in operation requires solving additional problems of tying the pipeline to the existing premises and the location of plumbing fixtures. In addition, it will be necessary to knock out openings in the walls, floor and foundation for laying pipes. All this creates additional difficulties, but it can be implemented if desired.

Plumbing systems

Depending on the power source, there are:

1. Centralized water supply system. It is arranged if a central water supply pipe passes near the house, to which water supply is supplied. It is easier and cheaper to arrange such a system, but in the future it will be necessary to pay for the water supply. In addition, it is difficult to control the quality of water.
2. Autonomous water supply system. Requires significant physical and financial costs, but the quality of water is much higher. Autonomous water supply is absolutely independent of the utility. The source of food is wells or wells, arranged on a personal plot.

The source of drinking water from which the water supply is taken should be no closer than 20 meters from a cesspool, compost heap, toilet, septic tank, etc.

Pump and its connection

Most often, submersible or surface pumps are used to supply water in the water supply system. The choice depends on the power source of the water supply. First you need to decide whether it will be a well or a well. The well is much cheaper, this work can be done by hand. But its device requires great physical effort, and the water in the well, due to its shallow depth, does not pass through sufficient natural filtration and contains many harmful components. For wells up to 8 meters deep, it is advisable to install a surface pump, lower a flexible hose from it into the water for intake. The pump itself can be installed in the house, utility room or directly near the well.

The well is arranged by specialists with the help of special equipment. They conduct surveys on the availability and quality of water. Wells are built quickly, the water from it is always clean. Wells are very expensive. To draw water from a well, a submersible pump is used, which is lowered to a great depth in the water.

Left - surface, right - submersible pumps

Plumbing schemes

There are two main plumbing schemes:

1. A serial connection scheme is used for temporary water supply, for summer cottages or for a house with low water consumption. In this scheme, all plumbing fixtures are connected in series, from one pipe. If one plumbing fixture is working, then pressure drops significantly in all the others.
2. The collector scheme of the water supply system requires a lot of money for the device and materials, but it is possible to simultaneously operate several devices without losing pressure in the pipe. In this case, water is supplied to the collector, and pipes depart from it to each plumbing fixture separately.

Water pipe connection diagram

1. A control station that regulates the operation of the pump and shuts it down in case of danger.
2. Cord with plug for connecting to the mains.
3. A cord with a socket to which the pump is connected.
4. Circuit breaker. In case of danger to the equipment, it turns off.
5. Mains electrical outlet in the house.
6. A submersible pump is lowered into the casing pipes of the well, collects water and delivers it to the surface.
7. Cord that provides power to the pump.
8. Nipple for connecting pipes; threaded on both ends.
9. The check valve is designed to prevent water from returning to the pump.
10. The injection pipe through which water is supplied from the well to the surface.
11. Cross, provides the intersection of pipes in one plane.
12. Adapter nipple, designed to connect pipes of different diameters.
13. Flexible hose that connects to the control station.
14. A hydraulic accumulator is a container for storing water.
15. Pipes for supply to consumers.

When laying pipes, the most time-consuming process is the preparation of the building structure. Following the laying scheme, it is required to make holes in the walls and hollow out the strobes. Thanks to them, it will be possible to hide pipes in the walls.

Types of pipes

Steel

These are traditional pipes tested for many years, which until recently were most widespread. Nowadays, they are being replaced by pipes made of modern materials with the best technical performance.

Pros:

• Relatively low cost;
• material strength;
• Large assortment of fittings for them.

Minuses:

• subject to corrosion;
• Formation of plaque on the inner walls of pipes;
• Good electrical conductivity: in the event of a wire break, the current is transmitted through the steel structure and may cause injury;
• High labor costs during installation. Pipes are connected by welding, which can only be done by a qualified specialist, or by threaded connection. Installation is difficult and dangerous.

Galvanized

The product is much better and more reliable. The zinc-coated surface does not corrode and does not adhere to deposits of salts or other minerals.

Pros:

• High strength;
• Do not corrode;
• No residue remains on the walls;

Minuses:

• High price;
• Conductivity of electricity;
• Corrosion can form at the joints;
• Difficulty of installation.

Copper

Copper pipes have many advantages, but the cost of such material is quite high. It is advisable to use them to beat the water pipes in the interior of the house, because. they have a beautiful appearance.

Pros:

• Do not corrode;
• Deposits do not stick to pipe walls;
• Wide operating temperature range;
• Aesthetic appearance;
• Long service life.

Minuses:

• High price;
• Small assortment of fittings for pipes;
• The complexity of installation;
• Due to the thin walls of the pipe, it is easy to damage.

metal-plastic

These pipes have recently appeared on the market and have already become widespread. They combine the qualities of metal and plastic.

Pros:

• Do not corrode;
• Do not conduct electricity;
• Ease of installation;
• Large assortment of fittings.

As a minus, you can consider the fact that their service life is limited.

Polypropylene

These pipes in terms of technical characteristics have the best performance.

Pros:

• Low cost;
• Ease of installation. Pipe soldering is easy to do with your own hands without noise and dust, and the soldering equipment has a compact size;
• Elasticity that prevents damage;
• material strength;
• Long service life.

The only drawback is that the connections can no longer be disconnected.

Polypropylene pipes for hot water must be reinforced with fiberglass.

Pipes and fittings for plumbing

Pipe diameter

Choosing the right diameter is very important for the water supply system. If the diameter is small, then extraneous noise will occur inside the water supply, and if it is large, then the pressure will decrease, and more energy will be required to provide the desired pressure.

The diameter is determined based on the length of the water pipe:

• With a length ≤ 10 meters Ø = 20 mm;
• For lengths ≤ 30 meters Ø = 25 mm;
• If more than 30 meters Ø = 32 mm.

Water consumption is determined based on the diameter and number of plumbing fixtures. According to these indicators, the required collector is determined:

• Ø 25 mm passes 30 l of liquid in 1 minute
• Ø 32 mm passes 50 l of liquid in 1 minute

Initially, it is necessary to determine the number of consumers and the length of the water supply, based on this, the optimal pipe diameter is determined.

Water supply installation

Installation is carried out from the power source to the consumer. Installation begins with the installation of a pump in a well or a pumping station for a well.

Pump installation

The pumping station is installed on the surface. You can put it in the house, which will make it easier to control, but it is noisy in operation. The best place for her – utility room.

The submersible pump is lowered into a deep well. A cable is connected to the unit to secure it at the desired depth. Using an adapter or a clamp, a flexible hose is attached through which water is supplied to the accumulator.

Installation of a hydraulic accumulator

The accumulator is designed to maintain a stable pressure in the water supply and protects the pump from idling. Such a device is an optional element of the system; it is installed in two cases:

• to increase the pressure of water in the system;
• during interruptions in the water supply.

What do accumulators look like?

A hydraulic accumulator is mounted at the highest point of the water supply system, but so that it has access. A tee comes out of the storage tank, on which shutoff valves are installed. The other two outlets go to the cold collector and the water heater.

Collector device

The collector is designed to evenly distribute the pressure in the pipes for all consumers. The number of collector pipes depends on the number of plumbing fixtures that are consumers.

Cold water collector

Cold water from the pump or filter is supplied to the collector. A shut-off valve with a drain cock is installed in front of it, so that, if necessary, it is possible to disconnect the collector from the pipe.

Filters are installed for better water quality. They must be installed in front of the manifold and boiler.

The second flow is sent to the boiler, which heats the water to the desired temperature and is fed into the hot collector, where it is distributed to consumers.

Each collector outlet has a shut-off valve and, in the event of repair work on one device, the entire system continues to operate smoothly. A separate pipeline for cold and hot water is laid from the distributor to each device. For a private house and apartment, polypropylene pipes are the best choice.

How to solder polypropylene pipes with your own hands:

1. The dimensions of the pipes for wiring are determined, they are cut to the required length. Cutting is easily done with your own hands using special scissors. It is important to ensure that the blade of the scissors is perpendicular to the pipe.
2. The depth of adhesion is marked on the edges.
3. The soldering area must be thoroughly cleaned from dirt and dust.
4. A nozzle of the appropriate diameter is installed on the soldering iron.
5. The soldering iron turns on and heats up to the desired temperature.
6. The pipe advances in the nozzle of the soldering iron to the mark.
7. After 7 seconds, the nozzle is removed and the pipes are connected. They need to be held a little, but not rotated.

Soldering water pipes

Plumbing installation

The laying of the water supply system is carried out from the collector to each consumer in the following sequence:

1. The distributor has taps for each pipeline, if not, then shut-off valves are installed.
2. A pipe comes out of the faucet.
3. The next pipe is connected by a fitting using a soldering iron.
4. For rotation, a corner fitting is arranged.
5. To fit the pipes to size, they are cut with special scissors.
6. Clips are mounted to the wall, with the help of which the pipe is attached to the wall.
7. Water consumption devices are connected (washbasin faucets, shower, sinks; compact; washing and dishwasher, etc.).

piping in the house

• If pipes pass through walls, it is advisable to enclose the pipe at the point of passage with a ring to avoid their contact.
• The distance between the pipes should be 200-250 mm for the convenience of repair work.
• It is necessary to fix the pipes with special clips mounted on the wall. Mounts are installed in the corners, and on flat areas they are located at a distance of 1500-2000 mm.
• It is necessary to minimize angles and turns in the pipeline.

Video about water supply

This video will tell you about the water supply device in a country house with your own hands.

After a short briefing, laying the plumbing can be easily done by hand. To do this, you need the necessary tool. During operation, it is necessary to monitor the reliability of the connections so that there is no leakage. High-quality work will ensure reliable operation of the water supply system for a long time.

In contact with

The sources of water supply for a water supply system can be both centralized water supply networks and private sources located on the site, such as wells or wells.

The source of water supply can also be a river or lake, provided that the water is sufficiently pure or there is a purification system.

Connection to centralized networks

Centralized networks have a number of advantages. You do not need to take care of pumps and arrange a pumping station, you do not need to arrange a bulky storage tank, the organization providing water supply services for private houses and objects should take care of the purity and pressure of the water supplied.

But this is ideal. It often happens that the water pressure is insufficient, the water is polluted with rust, money is needed to repair the plumbing, and additional bills come. In addition, for water provided centrally, you will definitely have to pay according to the meter.

But you do not need to dig a well, trenches and so on. An application is sent, permission to connect is obtained, and within a few days, special equipment digs a trench for a water supply pipe, lays a pipe, and installs meters.

The choice of connection type is determined individually. If water flows in your water supply network without interruptions, pressure drops, pollution, then it is easier to connect to a centralized network.

But with low pressure, water hammer and pollution, you will have to install equipment for adjusting the water pressure, storage tanks, powerful cleaning systems. In this case, it is more logical to close your own system to your own source of water supply.

Decentralized source of water supply

The installation of a water supply system in a private house begins with any source that meets sanitary standards for water intake. Well, well, lake, river.

The most convenient and generally accepted option is a well, because in the event of a sudden power outage, and, consequently, a water pump, water can still be obtained manually. The well can play an additional decorative role on the site.

The second most popular is a system with a water well device directly in the basement of the house. Thus, there is no need to dig trenches for pipes and the water pressure increases, since the pumping station does not need to pump water from afar, while running water can be done directly to a private house.

The problem with this method is that the well can become silted up and needs to be cleaned about once every 3-5 years.

The capabilities of different wells may differ in capacity, which depends on the saturation of the aquifer. The standard width of the well is about 10-15 cm, which allows the use of a submersible pump for water supply, but it is impossible to scoop water from the well.

Cunning homeowners usually supplement the well with a large water tank of 200-500 liters, which allows them to survive a power outage.

We do not consider artesian wells due to the great rarity of this type of sources.

The device of an artesian well is quite expensive, and it is not very easy to obtain permission to drill an artesian well, since it will be necessary to justify the need to drill an artesian well.

Typical plumbing scheme of a private house

There are only two main schemes. This is a sequential distribution of water and a collector scheme, in which each water intake point has its own pipe and a common collector.

The serial connection scheme involves the laying of the main pipeline and, with the help of tee tie-ins, water supply points are connected in series. Thus, the water pressure at the first point will be maximum, while using several connections at the same time, the water pressure at the last connection will be the weakest. The scheme is economical, easy to install, reliable enough, but not recommended for more than 2 people living at the same time.

The collector scheme of water supply is more complex installation, high cost, but it provides approximately the same water pressure in all areas.

A typical collector water intake scheme is as follows

1. Source of water supply.
2. Water station with hydraulic accumulator. Be sure to choose models with a dry-running relay to avoid equipment damage.
3. Distribution block. It is intended for distribution of water for technical needs and household.
4. A water purification system is installed on the branch allocated for domestic needs.
5. After filtration, the separation of water into cold and hot is established.
6. A distribution manifold for cold water is installed and shut-off valves on each branch.
7. The hot water pipe is connected to the boiler.
8. Mounted distribution manifold for hot water.

External piping

External wiring of water pipes in a private house is installed after the completion of all construction work.

This is the most common scheme in private homes, when the water supply is constructed after settlement.

The external wiring system is comfortable, safe, allows you to control the water supply system at any stage and provides full access to all equipment. External wiring is easier to install than internal and convenient. There are special clips, clamps and pipe mounts that allow you to perform installation work on the device for external pipe routing as aesthetically and accurately as possible.

It also makes sense to take a closer look at the arrangement of mounting boxes in which pipes can be comfortably placed during external installation.

Fiberglass server mount boxes are great for covering pipes with a diameter of less than 4 cm. The pre-assembled mount boxes have a snap-on plastic cover that can be covered with a decorative strip of wallpaper or other material.

In the absence of ready-made mounting boxes, it is easy to build them yourself from ordinary wall panels.

Internal water distribution

With hidden placement of pipes, it is better to use polypropylene and welding. In those places where the pipes are accessible and not hidden, screw connections are installed.

Hidden water distribution should not hide key points, access to stopcocks, water distribution system, collectors. Between aesthetics and safety and performance of the system, it is advisable to choose the latter.

Since internal piping is usually carried out during the construction phase, it is highly desirable to simultaneously think over and build a sewer system with the release of fan pipes.

Pipes

Modern plastic pipes are mainly used due to their reliability, ease and ease of installation. Metal-plastic and metal have practically fallen into disuse due to high cost and less practicality.

The installation of metal-plastic requires bending and crimping equipment and serious practical experience. When installing metal pipes, welding is required.

With the help of plastic pipes with minimal crimping equipment, everyone can create a water supply system with their own hands.

If hot water supply is also planned in the house, pipes with thermal protection are needed.

Reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum, polypropylene pipes will do the job perfectly.

What else is plastic good for? After welding (a machine for welding polypropylene pipes can be purchased or rented) and pressure tested, plastic joints do not need to be checked and corrected. Pipes can be hidden in the finish. Do not forget about temperature fluctuations and create S-shaped bends in dangerous places to avoid bursting pipes.

But if the high price does not scare you, and you are ready to pay for professional installation, choose copper pipes.
everything about the Abyssinian well with your own hands, is it possible to install a pump on your site and suitable drilling technologies.

Installation of the plumbing system

External and internal piping differ approximately like open and hidden wiring.

Concealed plumbing involves placing pipes inside walls or finishes. External wiring involves an open arrangement of pipes.

It makes sense to consider semi-hidden wiring, when pipes are covered in special boxes, like computer network wiring wires. The box can be left unfinished, or it can be painted or pasted over with the same material as the walls.

The most difficult moments are precisely to think over the autonomous water supply scheme, individual for each private house, to think over the sewerage system and to punch holes in the walls for pipes.

When calculating the water supply system, the capacity of the well and the water consumption of each water intake point should be taken into account.

Connections, installation of pipes and equipment in a private house is laborious and painstaking, hard work, but quite feasible for an adult.

• Use special pipe gaskets to pass through walls. This will help protect the pipes from damage and abrasion and the walls from corrosion.
• Use threaded connections as much as possible.
• When installing drain taps, create a slight slope towards the tap. This will avoid the accumulation of water in the system after draining.
• Try to avoid unnecessary bends in the plumbing, as bends reduce pressure in the pipe.
• Use the same fixtures, splitters and fittings throughout the system.
• Be sure to have a small supply of fittings, fasteners, FUM tape, tees, ball valves, gaskets and seals. If you have fulfilled the requirements of the previous paragraph, then spare elements will fit anywhere in the system.
• Be sure to install shut-off valves to be able to quickly shut off part of the system.

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