What is mulch and where can I get it? What is mulch in the garden? Mulching the soil - what is it? What is suitable for mulching

The main commandment of farmers is that the soil surface should never remain bare. Mulching the soil perfectly retains moisture, suppresses weeds, releases nutrients, and prevents crusting after rain. Tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries, peppers, corn, cucumbers, and pumpkin plants especially need mulching. Using mulch, they increase the yield of garden crops by 30% or more, improve marketability, taste criteria, and juiciness.

Pros and cons of mulching the soil

Mulching is an effective agrotechnical method for increasing productivity. The soil is covered with material, so it dries out more slowly.

In 2-3 years, mulch transforms the depleted soil layer into a fertile and loose one. Creates excellent conditions for the life of soil inhabitants. Against the background of mulching, the ripening time of early harvests is accelerated by 5-14 days. One bucket of mulch applied to the garden bed is equivalent to 100 buckets of water.

Benefits of mulching:

• Yield increase at 30-50%;
• Preventing hardening of the surface layer;
• Improvement of biochemical and water-chemical parameters;
• Preservation of moisture, prevention of excessive perspiration;
• Weed growth inhibition;
• Protection from freezing and drying out;
• The increase in earthworms is more than 500 pieces per square meter;
• Maintaining optimal temperature conditions without sudden fluctuations.

• moles and mice are bred;
• the result is noticeable no earlier than two years;
• can become food for slugs and woodlice;
• straw, hay with preserved seeds are a source of weeds.

Thanks to mulch, the soil does not become waterlogged during the rainy season and does not dry out during drought.

Types of mulch

Traditionally, mulching materials are divided into:

• organic;
• inorganic.

With their help, they prevent moisture loss, level out uneven terrain and beautifully hide bare surfaces, which is important for landscape design.

To increase efficiency, plant materials and needles are pre-crushed.

Varieties:

View	Name	Peculiarities	Optimal layer, cm
Organic	Hay	Gives nitrogen Dry before application	5-8
	Sawdust and wood chips	Suitable for gardening Good water permeability Pulling nitrogen from the ground	7-10
	Leaves	A budget option It is advisable to compost before applying.	7-15
	Conifer bark	Prevents evaporation Ideal for shrubs and trees	5-10
	Needles, fallen needles	Loose texture Rapid decomposition Acidifies the soil layer Add 2 times a year	5-7
	Dried legume stems and leaves	Valuable source of nitrogen and nutrients	10 cm
	Paper	Used in combination with organic matter	0,5-1
Inorganic	Geotextiles	Maintains water and breathability Lay on bare soil before planting Combines effectively with organic mulch
	Plastic	Warms up well, may harm roots Placed between rows Durability
	Lutrasil, spunbond	Serves as a reliable shelter Gets rid of weeds Keeps berries clean
	Pebbles, stones, crushed stone	Doesn't pull out nitrogen Effective for gardens, rock gardens They accumulate heat during the day, which warms plants at night.	5-12 cm

Leaves

An excellent nutritional blanket for garden beds, trees, and shrubs. Suitable for sandy and light soils. They structure the soil and form a humus layer. The advantages are rapid decomposition within a year and the transfer of nutrients into the ground. Source of magnesium and calcium. Use any leaves except oak and walnut, which must be kept for one year to reduce the level of tannins.

The downside is that it is not advisable to apply it to vegetables that are prone to late blight and rot. In conditions of high humidity, it promotes the growth of fungi.

Mulch:

• currants;
• irgu;
• grape;
• trees.

Efficiency increases by 1.5-2 times when applied simultaneously with compost and mowed grass. To disinfect and improve the quality of the material, agricultural technicians recommend watering the leaves with Fitosporin, Fundazol, and Zircon.

Straw

Rich in nutritional compounds, it maintains a stable temperature well. Saturates the beds with nitrogen. Straw is valued:

• wheat;
• rice

Protects against dangerous diseases - spotting, apical and gray rot, anthracnose. The downside is that it becomes a habitat for rodents. Not suitable for windy areas.

Usage:

• crops planted in winter;
• greenery;
• celery;
• potato.

Hay, cut green manure

Good material for any garden beds. The grasses are mowed before the seeds ripen. Among the advantages is excellent vapor permeability. Structures the soil and supplies carbon to it.

Alfalfa and pea stalks are a source of nitrogen and many microelements. They are used where it is necessary to improve the texture of the soil - on heavy, golden soils. When applied in a layer of more than 12 centimeters, it leads to mucus formation and disintegration.

Compost

It is considered the best universal mulching material and fertilizer at the same time. It is prepared from any type of waste - household kitchen scraps, hay, branches, leaves. The downside is that more weeds grow than other mulches.

Is used for:

• all vegetable plants;
• trees and shrubs;
• grapes

Reference! Apply in a layer of 3-5 cm.

Humus

On the plus side, it is rich in nutritious organic matter and a lot of minerals, saturates the soil with nitrogen and increases its fertility. Apply in spring. The disadvantage is that it stimulates the growth of weeds.

Contributed under:

• roses;
• trees;
• shrubs;
• perennials;
• grape varieties.

Peat

Serves as a material for autumn-winter mulching. Indicated for soils:

• heavy;
• clayey;
• with a crust.

With the arrival of spring, it accelerates the heating of the surface, retains moisture, and optimizes the structure. Lowland and transitional peat are well suited for application. Do not use fresh material.

Branches

According to research by Canadian agricultural technicians, branches thinner than five centimeters are supermulch, pantry:

• pectin;
• amino acids;
• sugars

Shredded branches create humus. Particularly useful is the cutting material from raspberries, currants, grapes, and fruit trees.

Conifer bark

Advantages include durability and disinfecting properties. Has a stimulating effect on plants. Used to decorate flower beds and greenhouses. It is not advisable to apply it under tomatoes.

It is applied for:

• bushes - blueberries, currants;
• heather species;
• rhododendrons;
• fruit trees.

Important properties - it does not cake and does not turn into a crust.

The only negative is the complexity of preparation and the need for composting for 12 months.

Conifer needles

The layer of pine needles serves as reliable protection against fungi and rot. Prevents freezing and drying out. Gives looseness and improves water permeability. A scratchy blanket protects against slugs.

The best types of litter:

• spruce;
• pine.

Disadvantages include soil acidification and the release of inhibitory volatile substances. Apply to plants that require acidified soil.

What is mulched:

• strawberries and wild strawberries;
• camellia and hydrangea;
• lingonberries and blueberries;
• rose gardens and flower beds;
• heather;
• rhododendrons;
• perennials.

Sawdust and wood shavings

Suitable for various types of soil. A good combination is given with compost. Enriches depleted soils. It is advisable to use fresh, not caked, dried sawdust. Depending on the size, the following fractions are distinguished:

• small and medium. Up to 8 centimeters. Used in gardens and flower beds;
• large. More than 9 centimeters. Apply under trees and large shrubs.

The downside is that they can absorb nitrogenous salts from the soil. To avoid oxidation, add chalk or slaked lime.

What is it used for:

• bulbous crops;
• raspberries and currants;
• potato;
• trees;
• tomatoes;
• grape.

The paths and tree trunk circles are filled in.

Before adding sawdust, bark or shavings, the soil is pre-fertilized with nitrogenous compounds - manure, urea, gummate. Prevents nitrogen loss.

Inorganic mulch

Widely used for decorative and gardening purposes. Successfully protects the soil layer from drying out. Divided by:

• stones, pebbles, crushed stone, gravel of various fractions;
• paper and cardboard materials;
• expanded clay and plastic;
• roofing felt, roofing felt;
• film and textile bases - geotextiles;
• brick and marble chips.

When designing landscape design, colored plastic materials, fill, and colorful chips are used.

Non-woven covering materials last from 3 to 5 years. Protects against pests, fungal and bacterial pathogens.

Paper, newspapers and cardboard

It decomposes in 4-5 months, and before that it reduces the growth of weeds. Adds carbon to the soil. Mulching is done quickly. It is useful to mix with organic matter:

• leaves;
• compost;
• grass.

Light paper waste is used and cut into pieces before application. Due to frequent soaking, the paper requires frequent additional application.

Stones

They are especially valued in southern and arid areas. They accumulate heat during the day and release it at night. They do not absorb nitrogen and protect from winds and freezing. Gravel and pebbles are added to rock gardens, flower beds, flower beds, and paths. With their help, they create uniquely beautiful single-color and multi-color gravel gardens.

Gravel and pebbles are suitable for:

• young;
• cereals;
• carnation;
• Saxifraga.

Film

Available in sheet and sleeve form.

View	Positive Features	Flaws	For which crops?
Black	Absolutely opaque Herbicidal effect - complete cessation of weed growth Molds do not reproduce	In hot weather, strong heating up to 70 degrees	Strawberry
Red	Warms up the surface well during the day Maintains temperature at night	Soil drying out	Tomatoes
Silver	Reflects sunlight Prevents the appearance of aphids	The soil warms up more slowly	Corn Salad crops
Green	Warms the ground quickly The film itself does not heat up Prevents weeds from growing		Tomatoes Strawberry
White	Partial reflection of sunlight Doesn't heat up		Cabbage
Transparent	Rapid warming of the earth The film itself does not heat up, and there is no risk of it burning From the second ten days of April, maintaining soil temperatures above 10 degrees	Promotes weed germination	Early root vegetables - radishes Salad vegetables

Secrets of proper mulching

• In the spring, mulching begins only after the soil has sufficiently warmed up;
• Also in the spring, beds mulched for the winter are freed from mulch while they warm up;
• Before application, the surface is loosened to a depth of five centimeters, fertilizers are spread;
• Remove weeds;
• Cover heavy loams with a thin layer;
• Mulch should not touch the trunks of bushes and trees;
• Do not use mulch in excessively wet areas.

Deadlines

Mulching the soil for summer and winter is carried out with different materials and for different purposes.

Summer mulch retains moisture and suppresses weeds. The optimal time for application is the second half of spring, early June. When garden crops begin to grow and begin to develop intensively. How to carry out mulching taking into account the season:

Name	What is it used for?	Notes
Spring	Trees, bushes, perennials Early vegetables and salads	Lay out after germination of seedlings Apply after warming up Shifting autumn organics
Summer	All vegetables and root vegetables Berry fields and gardens Flower beds, flower beds	Cover aisles Re-cover for drought protection
Autumn	Beds for winter Winter crops Shrubs, trees	Added in combination with mullein and compost
Winter	Perennials, rose gardens Gardens and vegetable beds	Apply fallen leaves Leave plant waste for processing by worms and soil inhabitants

In October-November, beds with the following plants are covered with a thick layer to protect them from freezing:

• strawberry;
• bulbous crops;
• shrubs;
• garden and ornamental trees.

Coarse residues are used - non-acidic peat, fallen leaves, sawdust, straw, hay. To prevent the mulch from interfering with warming up in the spring, it is removed and buried 10-15 centimeters deep. Or they are moved until germination. Then they start mulching again and fill the rows.

Thickness

When laying out mulching material, pay attention to the soil composition and the size of the mulch particles. On heavy clay soils and loams, mulch is laid in a layer no thicker than 2-3 centimeters. Under the mantle, with high humidity, rotting occurs. The beds need regular loosening.

Compost with small thin pieces is suitable for garden crops - cabbage, root vegetables, salads. It is laid to a thickness of five centimeters. On sandy depleted lands a layer of 8-10 centimeters is formed. To form a light covering, add hay and needles. The day before and immediately after sowing seeds, do not use rotted straw. It contains many inhibitory components.

Mulching the garden

Young seedlings are mulched immediately during planting. They use organic residues and inorganic materials - film, lutrasil, stones, fragments of bricks.

Sprinkle under fruit trees:

• compost;
• cut grass;
• chopped bark and branches.

The optimal layer thickness for trees is 4-5 centimeters. To speed up decomposition, sprinkle with a solution of sugar and urea, one glass per 10 liters.

Diameter of the mulched tree trunk circle:

• mature trees 2.5-4 meters;
• trees up to 3 years old 70-80 centimeters;
• trees from 3 to 6 years old up to 1.5 meters;
• bushes at least 40-50 centimeters.

The mulch is laid out at a distance of 20-25 centimeters from the trunk to preserve the root collar and space for ventilation, and up to the perimeter of the crown. Seedlings cannot be mulched:

• pyramid;
• hill;
• volcano.

For the winter, the mulch is covered with old film on top. This technique will deter pests - the flower beetle, moth and prevent them from moving onto the trees.

Common mistakes when adding mulch

• Laying material on unheated beds;
• Poor grinding of residues;
• Excessive watering of mulched crops, resulting in rotting and fungal infections;
• Do not remove the mulch in the spring to warm the surface;
• Do not leave a free area around the root collar or trunk. Due to the tight fit, rotting occurs;
• Incorrect order - first mulch the seedlings, then water them. It needs to be the other way around;
• The characteristics of the soil - composition and PH - are not taken into account when determining the thickness of the mulch.

Soil mulching is widely carried out in households and farms to preserve the living structure of the soil and increase fertility. Organic raw materials are used - straw, leaves, peat, needles, bark, branches. Geotextiles, black and colored films are popular. Materials are selected taking into account the composition and texture of the soil, and landscape design features.

In modern agriculture, along with new ultra-technological methods of growing plants, ancient methods that were forgotten or almost forgotten are also widely used. These methods include mulching, that is, covering the soil with various materials to protect the beds from drying out and to control weeds. Today, mulch is used by both amateur gardeners and large agricultural holdings.

In past centuries, modern means of weed control were not available to gardeners, and the possibilities for watering garden crops were very limited. However, it was somehow necessary to fight weeds and drought, which is why a simple but effective technology was invented - mulching.

The essence of this method is to cover the ground with inexpensive (garbage) material that would effectively inhibit the growth of weeds, prevent the evaporation of water from the soil, but do not interfere with the growth and development of cultivated plants. Straw, mown grass, sawdust, pine needles and other similar materials were used as mulch. Today, the industry produces special types of film-type mulch, which are no less effective, but are easier to install.

Mulching the earth occurs as follows. The mulch is laid on the open soil, acting as a kind of blanket. Moreover, organic mulch is often not removed from the garden at the end of the season, but is simply plowed into the ground, turning into natural fertilizer.

A properly laid layer of natural or artificial mulch can perform many different functions:

• maintaining optimal temperature in the upper layers of the soil, including protection from overheating in the sun and from sudden temperature changes in the autumn-winter period,
• Irrigation can be partially replaced by mulching, since moisture in the ground is retained much better and does not evaporate under the influence of sunlight,
• optimization of air-gas regime in the upper layers of soil,
• prevention of water and wind soil erosion,
• inhibition of weed growth,
• the soil under the mulch does not dry out and remains loose,
• enriching the soil with natural fertilizers,
• creating a breeding ground for beneficial insects and earthworms.

Today, mulching is used both in amateur gardening and horticulture, and on large fields owned by large agricultural holdings. The use of mulch allows farmers to significantly reduce the costs of weed control, watering and fertilizing crops and plantings.

Main types of mulch

By and large, any organic material that has the appropriate consistency can be used for mulching. That is, one that can be easily laid on the garden bed, and which can effectively act as a “blanket” for the garden bed, while maintaining the ability to allow air and moisture to pass through. All types of mulch can be divided into three main categories:

• artificial covering materials,
• organic materials,
• inorganic bulk materials.

Which of the three types of mulch to give preference depends on many factors: the availability of a particular type of mulch, the type of soil, weather and climatic factors, the type of plants in the garden, the method of growing them, etc.

Amateur gardeners, as well as small farmers, often prefer to use natural organic materials in their activities, which are very cheap or even available to them for free. We are talking about such types of mulch as cereal straw, crop waste (tops and stems of cultivated plants), hay or simply dried grass, sawdust and shavings, bark for mulching and tree chips, fallen leaves, pruned branches, pine needles, cones, peat , paper, etc.

The main advantage of this type of covering materials (besides the low cost) is their ability to quickly and in large quantities accumulate moisture during precipitation or watering, and then release it very evenly into the ground. Also, these materials effectively regulate the temperature of the upper layers of the soil and can become a haven for beneficial insects. After harvesting, such mulch can simply be plowed into the ground, turning it into natural fertilizer.

At the same time, specific types of mulch are more suitable for different types of cultivated plants. For example, it is more convenient to mulch strawberries or strawberries with pine or spruce needles, since this type of mulch can be easily laid around existing small strawberry bushes. But a bed of garlic can simply be completely covered with coarse straw, since garlic can independently break through a layer of mulch.

Large agricultural enterprises, as well as many amateur gardeners, use artificial film-type covering materials: white and black film, roofing felt, roofing felt, lutrasil, spunbond and others. Artificial materials are more effective at suppressing weed growth, retaining moisture better, but are often worse at regulating temperature. They are also not able to become a haven for beneficial organisms and turn into fertilizer after use. Artificial covering materials are much more expensive than natural ones, but they are more convenient to use for mulching large areas.

Finally, the third type of mulch is inorganic bulk materials - pebbles, crushed stone, expanded clay, etc. Most often they are used as a decorative cover for mulching bushes and trees on lawns and flowers in flower beds. This mulch does not lose its appearance and does not decompose; it very effectively suppresses the development of weeds and prevents moisture evaporation. However, it cannot be used when growing crops, since it is difficult to remove at the end of the season, and it cannot be left on the field, since it does not rot and makes it difficult to cultivate the field.

The methods and timing of mulch application greatly depend on the purpose for which the mulching is being done, as well as on the type of mulch and the type of crop being protected in this way. Some crops need to be completely covered with mulch, while others definitely need to be left with open soil around the stems, mulching only the row spaces. Some types of mulch can be laid in a thin two-centimeter layer, others are effective only with a thickness of about 5-10 cm. Winter crops are mulched in late autumn, spring crops - in late spring.

Since in most cases mulching is used for summer vegetable crops, we will talk about them.

So, mulching the beds should be done no earlier than May, so that the soil has time to warm up. In addition, mulch laid too early will quickly begin to rot if it gets caught in prolonged rains, which often happens in April-May.

On the other hand, if there is a risk of late frosts, mulch applied early can protect warm-season crops from them. True, then it will still have to be removed or updated if it begins to rot.

For most vegetable crops, continuous mulching is very undesirable: a small radius of bare soil must be left around the stems so that the plant roots can breathe. This rule is also relevant when mulching fruit trees, around the trunks of which you need to leave a circle of bare earth.

If possible, it is advisable to lay mulch after the rain, and not before it. Also, if necessary (if the bed has not been cultivated or dug up since the previous season), the soil must be loosened before mulching.

For most garden crops, the optimal thickness of the mulch layer is 3-8 cm.

Although mulching has many advantages, it should be remembered that this agricultural technique also has its disadvantages.

Firstly, mulch is susceptible to rotting, especially when there is excess moisture (long rains, heavy clay soil, proximity to groundwater, etc.) or an excessively thick layer of mulch. Rotting is an extremely negative phenomenon, since it creates a threat of infection of cultivated plants by fungi. In addition, the process of rotting removes nutrients from the soil.

Secondly, mulch can delay soil warming, slowing down the development of winter crops in the spring. If mulching was carried out in the fall, in order to minimize the influence of this factor, after the final removal of the snow cover, the mulch laid in the fall can be removed, or at least stirred up. Then it will no longer be a dense, impenetrable shield and will be able to transmit heat. For the same reason, you should not rush to lay fresh mulch in the spring. It is better to wait until the soil warms up properly.

Thirdly, organic mulch can provide shelter not only for beneficial insects, but also for pests. Including quite large ones, such as mice and even moles. And, for example, slugs often appear in mulch from fallen leaves. There is a similar problem with paper mulch.

Finally, mulching with grass clippings or straw can lead to contamination of the garden with weed seeds. Moreover, weeds can begin to germinate directly in the mulch, using it as a nutrient medium, neutralizing its ability to inhibit the growth of harmful plants.

Spring is the optimal time to mulch most plantings. After the snow melts (in the northern regions) or the winter rains end (in the south), the soil saturated with moisture will begin to warm up in the sun. This is the moment when you can begin preparing for mulching.

First, you need to remove, if possible, all the roots of perennial weeds from the field, and also apply the necessary fertilizer, if necessary. Then you can begin laying mulch, which will protect the plants from overheating and drying out of the earth in the summer. When the time comes to plant seedlings or seeds of cultivated plants, the mulch is pulled apart at the planting site and the seedlings are placed in the resulting hole. However, there is an alternative option. First, vegetables are planted, and only then wood chips for mulching or other covering material are placed between the rows.

In mid-autumn, when the ground is already saturated with rain moisture, but has not yet cooled down, the second mulching period begins, associated with planting winter vegetables. Before laying mulch, as in spring, you must first remove as many weeds as possible and apply winter fertilizer. The mulch itself can also be laid either over already planted plants or before them. Which of the two options is more preferable is a debatable, if not controversial, question.

The need for mulching for the winter is dictated by the need to protect plants from freezing in case of a winter with little snow. In addition, in the spring this mulch will retain more moisture from melting snow. In spring, autumn mulch can be left as is, or supplemented with a fresh layer to compensate for winter losses.

Flower beds and flower beds, as mentioned earlier, are most often mulched with stone chips or expanded clay, which are laid in a continuous layer of 5 to 10 cm.

Trees in the garden, as well as ornamental and berry bushes, are covered with mulch along a radius from the edge of the crown to the trunk, leaving only the space in the immediate vicinity of the trunk bare. As mulch, pine needles, sawdust, less often straw and other materials are usually used, which are laid in a layer of about 10 cm. In the future, trees and shrubs can be watered less frequently (since the evaporation of water from the soil is significantly reduced), but more abundantly (to wet the mulch layer and moisten the soil under him).

As for vegetables, it is most convenient to plant seedlings in a bed already covered with natural mulch or covering film. Under each plant, a hole is simply made in the film (or a layer of straw is pulled apart), into which the seedling is placed. Further watering is done directly into the remaining holes (holes). The same crops that are planted head-on in the ground, for example, onions and garlic, are usually covered with mulch after planting, since the first method would be too troublesome for them.

In conclusion, we note that planting with mulching can be used not only in open ground, but also in greenhouses, greenhouses, greenhouses and even in pots with indoor plants. True, under these conditions the layer of mulch can and should be made much thinner.

In recent years, there has been a tendency towards natural anomalies in the form of sudden temperature changes. Summer heat can reach fifty degrees in the sun during the day, and at the end of August at night the air temperature drops to +15. Plants, like humans, react to sudden changes. This is expressed in the form of a poor harvest. The solution to the problem is mulching.

Soil mulching, what it is, what means to use and how, we will try to explain in the article.

Mulching the soil is an agrotechnical technique that allows you to retain moisture in the root system of a plant, preventing the growth of weeds; the layer also fertilizes the soil. It looks like a shelter around the trunk, located at the base.

For shelter the following are used:

• Organic,
• Inorganic materials

The use of the former is associated with the use of natural waste obtained as a result of agricultural activities. For example, sawdust, straw or hay. The second is associated with the use of production items, rock materials.

There is another method - traditional, every gardener uses it, this is the usual loosening of the soil after watering or rain. By loosening, the soil becomes more airy, moisture nourishes the rhizome faster and the plant develops faster.

Organic mulching

Organic includes agricultural waste - peat, pine cones, tree shavings or bark, wood chips, eggshells, leaves, etc. Row covering helps plants survive the heat by lowering the soil temperature, and protects them from frost in winter.

Cover the seedlings, then it is possible to reduce the number of weeds around. Perennial weeds will germinate and can be cut back without allowing them to bloom at the same time. In appearance, such a site is not very tidy, but it will have increased resistance to negative factors.

If you see wheatgrass breaking through, it is better to get rid of it. When the garden is covered with straw, the remaining grains can periodically germinate and are also disposed of. They are easy to pull out by the roots; you will have to make a little effort.

Throughout the summer, the mulch decomposes, while enriching the soil with useful substances and microelements. The soil becomes airy and looser.

If you use pine needles as mulch, the soil can increase acidity. To avoid this, it is recommended to mix with hay.

Good results after using sunflower seed husks. The material has good throughput, does not cake, does not slide, and in summer it lowers the soil temperature.

But improperly applied mulch, or too thick a layer, can also cause harm, for example, becoming a “cozy home” for snails or slugs. The microclimate promotes the development of fungus.

Inorganic mulching

This group includes:

• Small stones
• Brick production waste
• Polymers
• Agrofibre
• Sackcloth

Gravel and brick chips are used more for decorative purposes. The benefits to plants are questionable, but the possible harm is obvious. Under the influence of moisture, the pebbles go deeper into the ground.

Often used to cover the entire garden. This way it acquires an aesthetically beautiful appearance and cleanliness. The gardener will not need to get rid of weeds. Drip irrigation tapes are placed under the layer, thus reducing the amount of physical effort of the gardener to a minimum. But is this really good for crops?

The main role of using inorganic material is to protect the soil from drying out in the heat and suppress the growth of weeds. This is what happens, but the overuse of polymers in the area only worsens fertility indicators. Soil that is completely closed does not breathe and aeration does not occur. Therefore, it is recommended to remove the cover and dig up after the end of the growing season.

Mulching methods

Methods are selected depending on the final goal. Fine-grained organic mulch is applied for fertilization and moisture. Film - helps to warm the soil and obtain an earlier harvest. If you remove it in time, the young growth will quickly take root and become stronger.

The beds are completely covered with agrofibre, growing vegetables and fruits on an industrial scale. It is difficult to imagine a strawberry field without such shelter; the need for weed removal and watering increases significantly. In such cases, you will need to worry about fertilizing the site in advance, and during the growth process, use foliar feeding of the bushes. When choosing agrofibre, keep in mind that dark colors are recommended. If the material is transparent or white, light will penetrate and weeds will continue to grow actively.

In summer cottages, it is not recommended to use inorganic mulch. But if you are already using it, it is better to put it away for the winter. Organic, it remains on the site all year round; in winter it rots and supplies the garden with organic compounds.

Mulching procedure rules

The procedure can be carried out twice a year – in autumn and spring. In the fall, after the harvest is complete, around mid-October. For the garden it is recommended to use tree bark, wood chips, nut shells and peat. For the garden - softer materials, for example, straw, sawdust, husks from sunflower seeds.

Before mulching the garden or winter crops, it is recommended:

• Get rid of old dead wood, carry out sanitary pruning of trees and remove excess
• Fertilize the plantings
• Carefully dig up and level the soil
• Water dry soil or mulch after heavy rains. Dry soil is not covered because the root system will not receive enough nutrient moisture.

Plantings in shady areas are covered with a thin layer, thinner than the rest. The area should be equal to the area of ​​the crown of the tree or bush.

Mulching of garden crops

The procedure is carried out in the spring, after the earth has warmed up to +15 degrees. If done too early, the development of the plant will only slow down. Early crop intake will lead to wilting.

If you decide to mulch the bed during fruiting, it is recommended to do it after watering and loosening. After harvesting, summer mulch is dug into the soil. In the case when the area is not cultivated for the winter, the layer remains for the winter and is moved in the spring to allow the earth to warm up.

If winter in your region is mild and the soil does not freeze, then you can leave the mulch untouched and leave it for the next season. They carry out work to form it correctly.

Sprouted weeds should not be allowed to spread. Timely removal is the key to cleanliness. Thus, the beds will gradually be cleared of weeds, and weeding will be inappropriate. Plants will gain comfort, develop faster, and the harvest will delight you with abundance.

What mistakes can be made?

The first mistake is that the layer is too thick, which is especially harmful during active fruiting. It is possible that a healthy plant will begin to rot. With this method, the roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen and light.

There is absolutely no point in mulching dry soil. Especially in windy weather. The wind will simply carry the material all over the garden. In the spring, mulch remaining above the roots will only prevent the soil from warming up and slow down the development of the plant.

In the fall, they are applied only for cultivation, perhaps in the inter-row spaces, so moisture will accumulate, which is especially important in regions with little snow. To retain winter moisture in the soil, it is recommended to loosen it after collecting the shelter. But such an action is possible if the soil is dry and there is no frost.

Mulching with grass is an agrotechnical measure with the help of which more favorable conditions are created for plants and soil.

However, its effectiveness depends on many factors.

After all, improper preparation of collected vegetation, carried out without taking into account its species and the general situation on the site, can not only block the entire beneficial effect, but also cause significant harm.

Therefore, it is very important to understand not only the general principles of mulching, but also the processes that occur in the soil and the mulching layer.

From this article you will learn:

• how and from what to make such mulch with your own hands;
• how and with what to chop/chop grass;
• Is it possible to mulch with grass, including lawn grass, cucumbers, cabbage, peppers, potatoes, put fresh grass under tomatoes, strawberries, raspberries, roses and other crops in greenhouses and open ground;
• about the benefits of mulch from mowed grass for plants, and under what conditions it can cause harm;
• how to mulch beds correctly;
• about hot grass for mulching - what it is, pros and cons, how to use it.

To answer this question, it is necessary to understand how grass that is mowed or separated from its roots in any other way affects the soil and plants.

Once on the surface of the soil, such vegetation reduces moisture loss caused by evaporation, and also makes the life of snails and slugs very difficult, that is, it performs the same functions as mulch made from any other materials.

In addition, it protects plant roots from summer heat and winter frost, although it is less effective than shavings.

That is, any healthy vegetation separated from the roots is suitable for use as mulch, however, in some cases, preliminary preparation of the material will be required.

Weeds

Despite the fact that weeds are also grass, the situation with them is somewhat different, because they are for mulching suitable only until mature seeds appear. If they have already produced seeds, then trying to use them for this agricultural activity will only lead to their rapid spread throughout the site.

However, even they can be used as mulch if they are first subjected to liquid composting, which we talked about.

The advantage of liquid composting is that the aqueous medium dramatically increases activity, so they break down organic matter faster and more efficiently.

This means that after 3–6 weeks most of the seeds will lose their viability and will not pose a threat to cultivated plants. In addition, a by-product of such preparation is a liquid fertilizer, which can be used as a good complex fertilizer.

Depending on the degree of decay, it can either fill the soil with humic substances (humates), accelerating the development of plants, or accelerate the process of soil regeneration, attracting worms that will process all organic remains and loosen the soil.

The disadvantage of such preparation is the deterioration of the protective properties of mulch in relation to summer heat and winter frosts, however This problem can be compensated for by increasing the thickness of the mulch layer.

In addition, the more rotted the starting material is during liquid composting, the less effective it is at attracting worms, since most organic matter has already been fermented and processed into intermediate or final products.

Therefore, such mulch has less effect on the process of soil regeneration, but quickly turns into humic substances, which are natural nutrition for plant roots.

Plants with diseases

A plant affected by some kind of disease is a source of infection even after it is separated from the root as a result of uprooting or weeding.

Moreover, even rotting under natural conditions does not always destroy pathogens.

That's why first you need to determine the type of disease, and then compare it with the cultivated plants located on the site.

If this type of disease does not pose a threat to plants on the site, then such grass can be used for mulching. If cultivated plants are susceptible to this disease, then such grass cannot be mulched even after it has completely rotted, including using liquid methods.

Plants affected by pests

Garden and vegetable pests often leave eggs or larvae on the grass, and when this happens, the vegetation over a fairly large area is affected.

Such grass cannot be used for mulching even after rotting in a barrel, because the larvae and eggs of many pests are very tenacious, so they remain viable even after exposure to bacterial enzymes.

If such grass is used for mulching, then the grown pests will move on to the cultivated vegetation and greatly harm it.

Preliminary preparation of collected green mass

For mulching, grass is used in the following states of aggregation:

• fresh;
• dry;
• partially rotted.

Fresh

If you plan to use freshly cut grass as mulch, then no preparation is required - it is immediately laid out around the site.

This material contains the maximum amount of nitrogen, so its consumption by humus-forming bacteria compensates for the excess of this material and after mulching the soil does not lose nitrogen.

The disadvantage of this method is the strong toxic effect on cultivated plants, which is stronger the less compatible the plants are.

Therefore, for fresh mulching Green manure is best suited, which, after ripening, are cut or trampled so that they die and begin to rot.

Partially rotten

To obtain partially rotted material, the collected vegetation is placed in a composter or barrel for the time necessary for the rotting to reach the required level.

By waiting for one or another stage of decay, both the mechanical properties of the mulch and its attractiveness to worms are regulated, this makes it possible to obtain mulch that is better suited to a specific situation than other materials.

The advantage of partially rotted mulch is its high content of transition substances, due to which bacteria produce humates much faster than in fresh grass, and there are still quite a lot of substances attracting worms in such material.

Dry

To dry, the vegetation is collected in stacks and left in a well-ventilated and lit area, then, when the humidity drops to the required level, it is used for mulching.

If it needs to be stored until spring, then the dry green mass is placed in a closed, well-ventilated and insulated room. This material contains less nitrogen, so in spring and autumn the area mulched with it must be fertilized with nitrogen-containing preparations.

In addition, dried vegetation much less toxic than fresh, so for mulching you can even use grass that is usually incompatible with the cultivated plants located on the site.

The main advantage of dried grass is that it can be mulched even in early spring, when fresh grass is not yet available. The main thing is not to lay it close to cultivated plants.

At the same time, dry mulch retains the attractiveness characteristic of fresh vegetation for worms, due to which its introduction into the area leads to an increase in their number, which means increases the efficiency of regeneration processes soil.

It is also more effective than fresh grass if it is necessary to protect plant roots from heat or frost. The only downside is that violation of drying and storage conditions can lead to mold or rotting, which will negatively affect the effectiveness of the mulch.

How to cook it yourself?

In order to prepare the collected vegetation for use as mulch, it is necessary to chop it using any of the devices that we talked about in.

This operation is not needed only when the average length of the cut fragments does not exceed 10 cm, that is, the grass was collected from a lawn that is regularly mowed. If the material is obtained as a result of weeding or pulling out weeds, then grinding is always necessary.

Then collected vegetation is dried or composted to bring it to the required state. The choice of the required state and the method of bringing the plant mass to it depends on the purposes of mulching.

Fresh and dry material is used if mulching is carried out for:

• reducing water loss due to evaporation;
• weed and pest control;
• protection from heat and cold.

If the mulch should quickly affect the structure of the soil, as well as fill it with nutrients, or if you need to lay it close to the plants, it is better to use partly rotted in a barrel vegetation.

If, in addition to all these effects, mulch must compensate for the microelements spent on plant development, then it is better to take grass composted with the addition of manure and other components. Read more about this type of grass preparation.

What can you mulch with?

All vegetation suitable for mulching can be divided into:

• lawn;
• meadow (forbs);
• weeds.

Lawn grass has a beautiful appearance and poor vitality, so without lawn care it will quickly give way to more tenacious forbs or weeds.

In addition, seeds of lawn vegetation germinate well only in specially prepared conditions, therefore probability of spread of this species vegetation through mulching equal to zero.

Forbs, that is, any types of grass that grow in meadows or fields, and also often appear in the garden or vegetable garden, are much more viable than lawn grass or even most cultivated plants.

Therefore, vegetation mowed after the seeds appear, even if they are not yet ripe, can be used for mulching only after partial or complete rotting in a barrel.

Weeds are the most viable plants that take over living space from any other plants and easily choke out lawn grass and cultivated plantings.

That's why after the appearance of even immature seeds, weeds should not be used for mulching, unless after complete rotting in a barrel or composter.

But even after such treatment, there remains a fairly high probability of their spreading throughout the garden.

In addition, weeds that have been torn out of the ground along with their roots cannot be used for mulching, because even after rotting they remain viable and, once in fertile soil, they will immediately begin to take over the territory, suppressing other plants and depriving them of nutrition.

Lawn

Lawn grass does not contain weed seeds, so mulch made from it is safe for any plants. In addition, after mowing the lawn, the roots of the grass remain in the ground, so even theoretically it will not be able to begin to take over the living space of other plants.

This is especially important in cases where the lawns, for some reason, were planted not with special plants, but with forbs, trying to create a more natural appearance of the area.

In addition, lawns are mowed regularly, otherwise their appearance becomes noticeably worse, so the length of the mowed vegetation is optimal and can be used for mulching even without prior chopping.

Therefore, freshly cut grass from a lawn mower can be used to mulch any garden and vegetable crops, but its use most effective where plants are planted to improve the appearance of the area, and not for the sake of growing fruits.

It is not suitable for mulching any fruit plants (such as tomatoes, peppers, strawberries and others), but if, apart from the grass from the lawn mower, there is nothing to mulch them with, then after laying the mulch layer it is necessary to water it with preparations containing microelements.

Forbs

Forbs differ from lawn grass in the variety of species, so the mulch made from it contains much more microelements, which means it is better suited for fruiting plant species.

N most effective forbs mowed during the period of active flowering, because it is then that plants extract a maximum of microelements from the soil, which then return to the ground with fallen petals.

If this material is obtained not as a result of mowing, but after processing the area with a walk-behind tractor, then it can be used for mulching only those areas where it is planned to plant forbs.

The use of such mulch in areas planted with cultivated plants can lead to the fact that the surviving roots will reach the ground and the area will quickly be taken over by forbs, which are noticeably more vital.

Weeds

Weeds that are freshly cut, pulled out, or left after weeding cannot be used at all for mulching without drying or rotting, because several days after separation from the root and several years after separation of the root from the ground, weeds can still take new roots.

Therefore, weeds that are mowed or cut down as a result of weeding can be used only after rotting, and the vegetation that has been pulled out by the roots cannot be used even after rotting.

After all, even a small part of the root that survived during decay, once in the ground, will quickly give new roots, after which the weed will begin to take over the area, drowning out the cultivated plants and depriving them of nutrition.

In the open ground

The soil is mulched for the first time after the height of the young plants exceeds 5 cm. At this age, the plants do not yet have a strong trunk, which means that care must be taken when laying mulch around them.

Therefore, all the mulching material is first laid out around the trunk, then the space between the plants is filled. Layer thickness 1–3 cm. In addition, there should be at least 2 cm of space between the lower leaves and the mulch, otherwise the leaves may get sick from contact with rotting grass.

For the first mulching, it is necessary to use partially rotted lawn grass or forbs that have lain in a composter or compost heap for at least a year.

Moreover the greatest effect will be achieved by using compost, which includes or other components.

If you use fresh vegetation, then there is a high probability of burns on cultivated species caused by enzymes released by bacteria.

The next mulching is carried out at intervals of 3–6 weeks, and the more often this activity is performed, the thinner the new mulching layer should be.

After laying each new layer cultivated rocks are watered with a solution that includes ash and any nitrogen fertilizers, including feeding from manure or droppings, which we talked about. Nitrogen fertilizer compensates for nitrogen, which is actively consumed by bacteria, and ash neutralizes soil acidification.

If the planted plants need to be hilled up, then mulch is applied on the same day or a few days earlier, thanks to this the soil will cover part of the grass and speed up its rotting, which means that the plants will quickly receive additional nutrition.

This use of grass does not reduce the effectiveness of mulching, because one of the main objectives of this action is to reduce moisture loss due to evaporation from the soil surface.

If after hilling it is necessary to protect the plant from slugs, then The mulching material is divided into 2 parts, one is laid before hilling, and the other after.

In the greenhouse

The general principles for using mulch from cut grass for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and other crops in a greenhouse are the same as in open ground.

In this regard, the differences relate only to the method of preparation and the condition of the material.

When any fresh grass, including that from a lawn mower, rots, the bacteria release a lot of carbon dioxide, so the amount of carbon dioxide in the greenhouse or is constantly growing, which can pose a threat to anyone who will be working inside for a long time.

To reduce carbon dioxide emissions, it is necessary to use partially or completely rotted vegetation, which was kept in a compost pit or composter for at least a year.

However, before using even such mulch, it is necessary to check the operation of ventilation, without which the proportion of carbon dioxide will constantly increase.

in autumn

The main purpose of autumn mulching is to restore soil structure and replenishment of nutrients spent on plant development and microelements.

Since worms are the most important participants in the process of soil restoration, autumn mulching should attract them to the site as much as possible and provide them with sufficient food.

Any fresh or dry vegetation is suitable for this, with the exception of weeds that have retained at least a small piece of root. The prepared material is scattered over the area in a layer 2–5 cm thick, then the area is plowed and disked.

No plowing or disking such mulching will not be effective enough, and some of the thickest stems will not rot until spring. Small areas, instead of plowing and disking, are first treated with a walk-behind tractor and then leveled with a rake.

Another way to accelerate decay is to treat the mulch with bacterial preparations, which can be purchased at most stores selling goods for gardeners and gardeners.

These drugs will not affect the attractiveness of worms and will speed up decay., due to which by sowing the mulch will completely turn into humus and significantly improve the structure of the soil, as well as fill it with nutrients and microelements.

You can also reduce the labor intensity of the process by mulching with partially rotted compost, which has lain in a composter or heap for at least six months.

Moreover compost should contain, including fruit or vegetable trimmings that contain enough complex organic matter to effectively attract worms even after sitting in the composter for so long.

The nuances of using mulch for different crops

Despite the fact that the general principles of preparing and using grass as mulch are the same, there are nuances that will help you do this more efficiently, which will have a beneficial effect on the yield and quality of the fruit.

However, it is necessary to understand that the maximum effectiveness of this measure will be achieved only when mulching is part of the soil fertilization and regeneration system.

Moreover, all actions of this system must necessarily complement and not duplicate each other.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are very heat-loving plants, so the first mulch layer on open ground need to be laid after the ground has warmed up well, that is, when the daytime temperature exceeds +20 degrees and lasts for at least a week.

If tomatoes are planted in a greenhouse, then mulching the soil can be done after the length of the tomato stem exceeds 5 cm.

Before fruit ovaries appear, compost that has been stored for at least a year should be used as mulch.

Wherein it must contain green manure tomatoes, that is:

• rye;
• lupine;
• oats;
• rape;
• white mustard;
• alfalfa;
• clover.

After the fruit buds appear, you can use dried lawn grass or dried forbs, that is, one that has lain in the sun for 1–2 weeks after mowing (however, it is better to use partially rotted compost), as well as completely rotted weeds without seeds.

After harvesting, the tomato stems are trampled, then green manure is planted. If it is not possible to plant green manure, then the entire area is covered with a layer of freshly cut green mulch, including any grass and weeds without seeds.

Then the area is sprinkled with a small amount of manure and lime, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and watered.

cucumbers

The first mulching should be done after the cucumbers have real leaves and grow a little.

Moreover, only compost that has spent at least 2/3 of the time required for complete rotting in a composter or pit can be used as a mulching material.

The next layer is laid after the fruit ovaries appear, and the third layer after the fruits acquire a clear shape. It is best to use partially rotted compost., however, you can get by with slightly dried lawn grass or forbs, sprinkling them with ash on top and watering them with properly diluted liquid fertilizer.

After harvesting, the stems and leaves of the cucumbers are trampled down, then green manure is planted (the same as for tomatoes), and after the green manure has ripened, they are also trampled down and mulched with any vegetation, except weeds with seeds, or partially rotted compost.

To speed up decay, the mulch layer is sprinkled with ash and watered with an aqueous solution of bacterial preparations.

Strawberry

Strawberries are a perennial plant, so completely different technology and materials are used to mulch them. The best mulching material for strawberries is considered partially rotted compost containing green manure from this plant, that is:

• legumes;
• rape;
• dill;
• fennel;
• marigold;
• rye.

Sequencing

Immediately after the snow melts around each plant, the winter mulch is raked to the sides, clearing a circle with a radius of 7–10 cm, this is necessary so that the soil warms up faster.

At the same time serve every strawberry bush, that is, they remove diseased and excess tendrils, but if there is a suspicion that the roots of the plant did not survive the winter, then they remove it entirely, and in its place they plant and pinch one of the tendrils of the nearest bush.

After the flower ovaries appear, the old mulch is returned to its place, then the soil is carefully loosened to a depth of 1–2 cm, without getting close to the roots of the bushes. Then the first mulching is carried out, and the layer thickness should not exceed 1 cm.

After the first berries have formed, another mulch layer of the same thickness is laid. The third mulch layer is laid while the berries are ripening., which will greatly reduce their watering, which means the berries will be sweeter and can be stored noticeably longer.

After harvesting, regular maintenance is carried out, that is, diseased tendrils or plants are removed, and weeds that have made their way through the mulch are pulled out. Excess tendrils, as well as healthy leaves, can be composted.

However, any diseased parts of plants must be destroyed, because rotting is poorly suited for destroying pathogens. Also it is necessary to destroy plants affected by pests or their parts.

From spring to autumn, it is advisable to grow green manure on a designated area, and it is necessary to collect their green mass before the fruits form and the trunks become coarser.

As it ripens, the green mass of green manure is cut off and added to the compost, making it as balanced as possible and better suited for mulching strawberries than fresh grass.

Autumn features

In autumn, the soil is loosened, then covered with a layer of mulch 3–5 cm thick, which will protect the roots of plants from frost, and use only partially rotted compost.

If you mulch the area with fresh grass, there is a high probability that the mustache will be damaged by enzymes released by bacteria.

This mulching procedure allows you to grow strawberries in one place without depleting the soil for 5–7 years, whereas even with the use of modern fertilizers, the maximum period of effective fruiting in one place does not exceed 2–3 years.

To prepare a new area for transplanting strawberries, it in summer or early autumn they are planted with green manure, and when they have gained sufficient green mass, they are trampled down and mulched with partially rotted compost, after which they are watered with water and bacterial preparations.

After the snow melts, the compost is raked and after the soil has warmed up, the bushes prepared for transplanting are planted.

Cabbage

Cabbage is very demanding on the quality and nutritional value of the soil, so mulching should not be a one-time action, but a system, because only this approach will allow you to get large, healthy heads of cabbage.

Proper soil preparation begins in the fall, immediately after harvesting, and is planting green manure - legumes, clover and others - followed by trampling them down and mulching with compost mixture.

If you use only partially rotted grass to create a mulch layer, after 3–5 years the soil will become poorer, and the cabbage will have to be moved to another area. If, in addition to grass, you use manure and other components, then you will have to transfer the cabbage to a new plot in 8–10 years.

Before laying mulch It is advisable to loosen the area using a Fokin flat cutter or any other suitable tool that gently and shallowly loosens the soil.

Immediately after this, the area is mulched with partially rotted complex compost, and in warm regions you can even use fresh/dry lawn grass or forbs, a layer thickness of 3–7 cm.

To accelerate decomposition of plant material water generously with water and bacterial preparations.

In the spring, immediately after the snow melts, the remaining mulch is raked to the side, forming an empty space the size of the future hole or hole, and the soil is slightly loosened.

If cabbage is planted with seeds, then the autumn mulching material is returned to its place after the appearance of several true leaves at least the size of a child’s palm.

If seedlings are planted, then the autumn mulching material is returned to its place immediately after the first watering, that is, on the same evening when the seedlings were planted.

The next mulching is carried out after the appearance of the fruit ovary. When the head of cabbage reaches the size of a child's head, you can lay another layer of mulching material, using almost completely rotted complex compost for this.

Raspberries

Raspberries are a very unpretentious and tenacious plant that is much less afraid of summer heat than most garden crops. In addition, replanting a raspberry tree to a new location is a rather complex and time-consuming process, so mulching should be part of the overall plant and soil care system.

In early spring, when the snow melts, space around the trunk is cleared of winter mulch, so that the roots warm up faster.

The soil is carefully loosened, trying not to go deeper than 2–5 cm, so as not to damage the roots located at the surface.

After the first leaves appear, the autumn material is returned to its place and a new layer of mulch is immediately laid, which can be used as partially rotted compost from lawn grass or forbs.

The second mulching is carried out at the beginning of summer, before the onset of intense heat, and in this case it is better to use partially rotted compost with any number of components.

The third mulching is carried out after harvesting, on remontant varieties after the first harvest, and then another after the second harvest.

Exactly the third application of mulch material is the most important, because the effectiveness of the soil regeneration process will depend on it.

Therefore, for final mulching, partially or 2/3 rotted compost with the maximum number of components is used, including:

• manure or droppings;
• ash or lime;
• kitchen vegetable waste.

Also the ground needs to be loosened: if you have a Fokina flat cutter, then it is loosened before adding mulching material, but if you have a manual cultivator, then it is loosened after laying the new mulch, because this way it will mix better with the soil.

Potato

The first time grass mulch is applied to the beds immediately after planting seed potatoes, the thickness of the layer, as in the photo, above the holes is 1-2 cm, and above the surrounding area - 4-6 cm.

For this operation only partially rotted compost is needed.

The second mulching is carried out after the first or second hilling, and the same material is used.

The third time they mulch after the green manure has ripened, and you can take either fresh lawn grass or forbs (in this case, after watering, you will need to treat the mulch layer with bacterial preparations), or partially rotted compost.

This procedure for caring for potatoes allows you to plant this plant in one place without loss of yield for 5–8 years.

Peppers

These crops are mulched 2 times - first time in May-June, when the daytime air temperature exceeds 20 degrees and the soil warms up, and the second - after harvesting and ripening of green manure.

In greenhouses, where it is possible to obtain 2-3 crops per season, mulch is applied for the first time after the soil has warmed up, and then mulched immediately after planting the pepper seedlings. After the last harvest is harvested, green manure is planted, then trampled down and covered with a new layer of mulch.

Partially or 2/3 rotted complex compost is used as mulch, which is used after planting seedlings, and if it is not available, dried last year’s hay (including forbs) or straw will do.

in autumn you can also use partially rotted compost or dried vegetation, however, in the latter case, it is necessary to water it with bacterial preparations to speed up decay.

In the spring, if not all the mulch rots, you need to rake it in the places of future holes so that the soil warms up, and after it warms up, first level the old material, then pour in new material.

Fruit trees and bushes

Fruit trees and bushes are mulched three times per season:

• after the soil warms up;
• during the summer heat;
• after fruiting.

Young plants, which have not yet had time to form a thick, strong bark, as well as any shrubs, sprinkled only partially or 2/3 with rotted compost.

Trees that are 5 or more years old can be sprinkled with any dry grass or partially rotted compost. The optimal layer thickness is 5–8 cm.

The first and third mulching must be done immediately after loosening the soil under trees and bushes, which mixes the rotted remains of the previous layer with the soil.

Roses

Methodology mulching roses very different from that accepted for other plants, because it is unacceptable for them to increase the soil level, because this will spoil the appearance of the flowerbed or lawn.

Each mulching with grass always begins by loosening the soil using a special device - a Fokin flat cutter or a hand cultivator - to mix some of the rotted organic matter with the soil.

• carefully collect and remove the remaining organic matter from the previous application, which can be sent to compost or applied to other plants;
• if necessary, remove the top layer of soil to ensure the same level throughout the entire area, then dig a small hole and fill the top layer of soil there;
• remove all emerging weeds;
• lay partially rotted compost or dry grass, including forbs, around the plant; if dry straw is used, then it is necessary to retreat 1–3 cm from the trunk.

The mulch layer is laid either throughout the lawn or flowerbed, or just around roses, optimal layer thickness 7–10 cm.

The first mulching is carried out in the spring, after the soil has warmed up (mid-late May), the second - a month after the leaves have fallen. In addition to mulching with grass, it is advisable to use green manure.

The benefits and harms of covering crops with lawn grass

Freshly cut vegetation poses a serious threat to cultivated plants, because bacteria in it actively secrete enzymes that break down complex organic substances.

Therefore, covering cultivated plants with fresh lawn or any other grass will cause a lot of harm.

However, if she in the fall, lay out on an area intended for planting cultivated plants next year, then it will bring a lot of benefits. After all, such organic matter will attract worms and increase the efficiency of the soil regeneration process.

If you cover cultivated plants with partially or completely rotted compost from lawn grass, they will develop in much more comfortable conditions, since such grass will not only effectively perform the functions of mulch, but will also serve as a good complex fertilizer.

Pros and cons of "hot grass"

There are many videos on YouTube dedicated to the technique called “hot grass” or “active mulch”, developed by Natalya Smorchkova. This method is called almost the best means for mulching any plants.

That is, they gave traditional compost a new name, but did not say the main thing - “hot grass” is not suitable for mulching, because bacteria do not have time to complete even the first stage of processing organic matter, so it contains a lot of enzymes that are dangerous to plants.

In order for “hot grass” to become suitable for mulching, it must first cool down, that is, the bacteria must complete the hydrolysis of organic matter and proceed to the acid-forming stage, and the content of dangerous enzymes that break down organic matter must decrease to a safe level.

Besides, nutritional value"hot grass" noticeably lower than multicomponent compost, which is more balanced in its composition.

Also, supporters of the use of “hot grass” claim that any vegetation can be used to make it, including weeds and diseased grasses, but this leads to serious problems.

Video on the topic

We have prepared several videos that will help you better understand the issue of mulching with “hot” grass. After weighing the pros and cons, you can determine the pros and cons and understand whether it is worth using this method in your garden.

From the following video you can find out how its author mulched peppers in his garden using “hot grass”:

Conclusion

Proper mulching with grass has a positive effect on the condition of cultivated plants, due to which they produce more abundant harvests.

Therefore it is one of the most effective agricultural techniques, which not only has a beneficial effect on the soil and crops, but also helps get rid of constantly growing grass, including weeds.

In this article we talked about:

• how to prepare such mulch;
• Is it possible to cover tomatoes, cucumbers and other plants with grass, put it on potato beds, as well as under fruit trees and bushes;
• what can be mulched with freshly cut lawn grass in open ground, and can it be used in greenhouses;
• how to properly mulch certain crops with grass.

We also showed what processes occur during this process. With this information, you can choose the right mulching method in your garden.

In contact with

Many gardeners make a big mistake when they neglect to mulch the soil or, due to lack of knowledge, apply it incorrectly. After all, mulching the soil surface is one of the main techniques that will help save time and effort when caring for your garden. With its help, moisture is retained in the soil, temperature is regulated, the structure of the soil itself is improved and plant growth increases. Along with this is a layer of organic material that you cover the soil with. (mulch), helps fight weeds.

The benefits of mulching

• The characteristics of the soil become better in several respects at once: the humus content increases, the activity of microflora, for example, earthworms, increases. The soil acquires a looser structure and ceases to “clog” after watering or rain.

• Mulch creates protection against erosion, protecting the top soil layer from weathering, erosion and cracking.

• In summer, mulch retains moisture - less water needs to be spent on watering. Also, the soil covered with mulch material does not heat up as much, which creates more favorable conditions for growth near the plants.

• In winter, it is easier for the soil to retain heat.

• Mulching in some cases helps fight diseases and pests: for example, it protects against moles and carrot and onion flies.

• Weed suppression. Individually growing annual weeds can be easily pulled out. Vigorous perennial weeds growing through a layer of mulch can be covered with material that will completely stop their growth.

• Mulching materials such as garden compost and well-rotted manure provide additional nutrition to the plants.

• Plantings decorated with mulch material look more neat and finished, and with a successful selection of mulch to the surroundings, you can create a special atmosphere of the garden, express its style and emphasize individuality.

Which mulch to choose

Based on the type of material, a distinction is made between organic and inorganic mulch. Organic mulch includes the following types.

• Peat

This inexpensive and accessible material is suitable for mulching in mixed borders, shrub borders and small areas. Using high peat soil acidity will increase. After drying, this material sticks together into dense clumps or forms a crust that hardly absorbs water, and is easily blown away by the wind. Therefore it is better to use lowland peat: It has a lower acidity and allows the soil to be slightly acidified, for example for rhododendrons, azaleas, heathers and hydrangeas. If increasing soil acidity is not required, then it is better to use low-lying neutralized peat, during the production of which the acidity is reduced to neutral. For mulching purposes it is best to use milled peat, broken into small fractions and due to this loose.

It is important to know

It should be remembered that peat is a very hygroscopic material, it absorbs a large amount of water and does not release it well, so when watering you should make sure that the soil under the layer of peat mulch is sufficiently saturated with moisture.

• Bark and wood chips

Better than peat: remain on the soil surface for 2-3 years. Pieces of bark and fractions of wood chips can be from 1-5 cm. Such mulch is not blown away by the wind and will look attractive around trees and shrubs. The bark and chips of coniferous trees also acidify the soil, and although this process is longer than with peat, this property should still be taken into account and the acidity should be adjusted when applying mineral fertilizers. Of the organic types of mulch, crushed bark and wood chips create perhaps the highest decorative effect; they look natural and harmonious in any planting.

Wood chips can be painted in various shades, today their range is quite wide, there are calm tones of chocolate, stylish black and interesting golden options. Here it is important to make sure that the manufacturer used organic safe dyes for processing.

• Sawdust and shavings

Can be used in its pure form, or mixed with peat or compost. As it decomposes, such mulch also slightly increases acidity and absorbs nitrogen from the soil, so only a well-rotted layer should be incorporated into the soil so as not to cause nitrogen deficiency in plants. The situation can be corrected by applying nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers, especially in the spring. In general, such mulch performs its functions, but small sawdust can be carried by the wind, litter paths and stick to wet shoes. Therefore, such mulch is often used as insulation in the winter.

• Leaf and pine litter

Quickly decomposes and enriches the soil with organic matter. However, you should make sure that the foliage and needles used do not contain pathogens and pests during the wintering stage. Pine and spruce needles slightly acidify the soil, but larch needles do not affect the acidity of the soil and enrich it with nitrogen. It is convenient to use oak litter from deciduous trees; due to the high content of tannins, the leaves do not become limp for a long time and create a loose, bulky layer, but you need to make sure that the material is not contaminated .

These types of mulch are most often used to insulate plantings for the winter.

• Well-rotted manure

Despite the fact that manure does not look as attractive as peat or bark, it is considered the cheapest and most effective material for improving soil structures. You need to use well-rotted manure without containing live weed seeds.

• Garden compost

You can make it yourself - from mown grass, non-lignified shoots, old stems, etc. High-quality compost should not contain weed seeds, and the grass should not be treated with herbicides. Its qualities are similar to manure: it also nourishes and improves the structure of the soil, protects against temperature changes, although not as effectively as manure.

• Straw

Mulching material is often used in rural areas due to its easy availability and low cost. However, it will not look attractive in a flower bed or in the border in front of the house. Has two disadvantages: it is necessary to additionally use nitrogen fertilizers; it may attract small rodents for the winter. Among the advantages, one can note good heat retention in the soil, but such mulch should be removed from under heat-loving plants in time in the spring so that it does not interfere with the heating of the soil.

• Old compost for growing seedlings

Peat-based compost used for growing seedlings has both positive and negative qualities of peat. It also contains nutrients. Any compost in which seedlings of flowers and vegetables grew will be suitable, as well as a nutrient mixture for growing champignons (it can be scattered over the surface of the soil near plants that prefer acidic soils).

• Cut grass

The grass obtained after mowing the lawn can be used to mulch the tree trunks of trees and shrubs. To do this, the grass should be dried, since fresh, damp grass in the lower layers will rot and rot, creating a dense layer that impedes air exchange in the soil and prevents watering. The thickness of the layer of dry grass is on average 5-8 cm. Flowering weeds and grass from a lawn treated with herbicides cannot be used for mulching.

On a note

Inorganic mulches include sand, gravel, pebbles, various non-woven materials, capable of transmitting water and air, but absorbing most of the rays of the solar spectrum (spunbond, lutrasil, etc.). Non-woven materials covering the soil surface for mulching completely prevent the germination of weeds, and cultivated plants are planted in the slots of the material. To enhance the decorative effect, you can cover the non-woven material, for example, with bark, wood chips or pebbles.

Methodology and timing

Loose materials containing coarse organic matter will help keep the soil in the same condition as at the time of mulching. They will become good insulators. The soil should be warm and moist at the time of coating.

As a rule, mulching is carried out in May. The soil must first be prepared:

• clear away debris;
• get rid of annual weeds with your hands or a hoe;
• if the area is heavily weeded, it should be sprayed with a fast-acting contact herbicide;
• weed out perennial weeds. The few perennial weeds are removed by hand. If there are a lot of them, the leaves need to be treated with contact herbicide Tornado, Lintur, Lontrel, Roundup, etc.
• Scatter complex fertilizer over the surface of the site and lightly work it into the soil with a rake.

The warm, weed-free, moist soil is then covered with mulch. For organic material, the layer thickness is – 5-8 cm, for inorganic mulch the layer can be 3-5 cm, depending on density.