How to level walls. How to properly align the walls in the apartment yourself

Flat planes are an indispensable condition for high-quality repairs, in apartments it is very often necessary to level the walls, since ideal geometry is rare even for new buildings, and in old houses this problem is even more urgent. The process is not easy, but with patience and adhering to the necessary requirements, all work can be done on its own.

Small irregularities and minor defects are easy to hide under wallpaper, decorative plaster. In more complex cases, the alignment of the walls is carried out by one of the main methods - by applying a plaster mixture or plasterboard lining. Each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

The use of building mixtures

If the walls of the apartment are relatively even and have a slight degree of curvature, many owners often prefer the use of leveling solutions.

This alignment method has been known for a long time, and it has a number of positive aspects:

• in the process of plastering, the internal volume of the room practically does not change;
• perfect for any premises (for various purposes and operating conditions);
• tiles, wallpaper, painting, and other finishing coatings hold well on the prepared base;
• it is not necessary to process the entire surface, partial alignment of problem areas is allowed;
• all work, using an affordable construction tool, can be done by yourself.

To reduce the thickness of the applied layer, at the preparatory stage, all cracks and recesses are pre-filled with quick-drying mixtures, and the protrusions are knocked down with a perforator.

The disadvantages include the following points:

• the plaster mixture is suitable for leveling minor differences, an increase in the thickness of the layer leads to an increase in material consumption, financial and time costs;
• special skills are needed, in their absence it is very difficult to immediately get the desired result;
• so that the applied solution dries well before finishing, depending on the thickness of the layer, it is left for 2-3 or more days.

Basic preparatory work

If the wall is concrete, then the simplest, most affordable and common method is to use a cement-sand mortar. The technology is simple, therefore, in the absence of experience, it is possible to acquire and improve the necessary skills in the process of work.

To carry out the plastering correctly, follow the step-by-step instructions:

• The surface is cleaned of the previous finish, for which old wallpaper and areas of poorly fixed plaster are removed, and the protrusions are knocked down.
• Turn off the power and disassemble the sockets. If necessary, they are replaced, and the wires are laid in strobes.
• Remove all fasteners (screws, nails, hooks).
• Existing deep cracks are expanded and filled with cement mortar.
• Having prepared the base, it is cleaned of dirt and dust.

The next step is priming. For better adhesion of the applied mixture to the surface, it is recommended to use a deep penetration composition with antiseptic properties. ABOUTnatstrengthens the base, improves adhesionand prevent the appearance of mold, the development of fungus.

On open flat areas, the primer is applied with a roller in a continuous layer, but in the corners it is more convenient to use a brush. After the first layer, after a pause necessary for it to dry, re-processing is carried out.

Before plastering the walls, beacons must be set up. For these purposes, metal profiles with a T-section or ordinary wooden slats are well suited. They are pressed into the "cakes" of cement, gypsum mortar previously thrown on the base and, until it has seized, they are quickly leveled.

An arbitrary distance is chosen between the beacons, but for the convenience of working at the corners of the room, at least 30 cm recede.

The main thing is that the rule along the edges rests on adjacent profiles and moves freely in the vertical direction.

Starting plastering, you can take the dry mix in the package and, diluted with water, prepare in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Or, using the most common materials - cement and sand, mix it yourself. Further, taking a trowel or spatula, the finished composition is applied to a pre-moistened wall so that the layer protrudes 2–3 mm above the level of the beacons.

Then, on them, trying to smooth the surface, they draw a rule from the bottom up. In places where small indentations remain, add a solution and re-align. If necessary, another layer is applied, leveling it in a circular motion, and the wall is left to dry. At the final stage, putty is used as a finish.

Working in separate rooms, you have to pay attention to the specifics of their purpose and features of operation. So, the bathroom is a relatively small room, so there are no particular difficulties, but given the high humidity and intensity of use, the question is natural - what material to choose?

Best of all, according to its characteristics, a cement-sand or gypsum leveling mixture is suitable; after hardening, their structure acquires the necessary properties that increase resistance to moisture. You can also install waterproof drywall, but the room is small and the frame will take up some space. At the end of all the work, the walls can be painted, but the best option is to glue ceramic tiles, as they will create additional protection and ennoble the appearance.

Internal and external corners

There are several ways to align the corners, but the easiest and most effective way is with the help of perforated profiles. When eliminating the irregularities of the inner corner with your own hands, it is necessary to perform a number of sequential works:

• over the entire height in the most even places, through an equal interval of 150–250 mm, apply a quick-hardening mixture;
• pressing an angular metal profile into it (inner shelves outward), check its position relative to the level;
• leave until completely hardened;
• further, starting from the flat sides of the corner, begin the main finishing work.

The outer protrusion is performed in a similar way, but the perforated corner is applied in reverse. After making the final alignment of the side surfaces and waiting for the complete hardening and drying of the material, they begin to grind it. To do this, take a grater or sandpaper, fixing it in a special holder, and, exercising light pressure, pass over the entire surface in a circular motion.

The number of layers applied and the choice of material, starting or finishing, depends on how curved the walls are.

Upon completion of work, in order to remove adhering plaster from the tool, it is placed for a while in a container of water or a small spatula is used. If painting is planned as a final finish or wallpaper will be glued, then a primer is applied to the walls for better adhesion of materials.

Visual alignment method

Very often it is not required to completely plaster all surfaces, sometimes it is enough to identify and eliminate problem areas in the form of protrusions and depressions “by eye”. This method is very efficient and allows you to achieve significant savings in time and materials.

The main attention is paid to such significant places as corners, doorways, ceiling and wall joints. The remaining planes are aligned using the rule, pressing it and simultaneously moving it along the surface, the presence of depressions is determined. After filling them with plaster, the excess is removed with a tool, re-wiring them to the walls. The application of the solution is carried out in several layers, each of which must be dried and covered with a primer on top.

The actions continue until the plane is flat and the rule is completely attached in the absence of recesses. After plastering, finishing putty is used as a final finish. After waiting for it to dry, the surface is polished with a special grater or sandpaper.

The visual method is complex and requires some skill, so only experienced builders use it. But all the work can be done in a short period of time and, if the partition has a slight slope, an acceptable result can be obtained. As a result, all the main decorative elements (skirting boards, baguettes) will be perfectly even.

The use of plasterboard structures

Due to the complexity of plaster leveling, more and more often, the GKL installation option is chosen as the main way to eliminate irregularities. This is also true if the house is wooden and the use of leveling solutions is impossible.

The main advantages include the following points:

• can quickly fix very crooked walls;
• ease of working with a surface of any material (concrete, gas blocks, brick, wood);
• the frame method allows you to improve the soundproofing properties and carry out additional wall insulation.

Disadvantages of using drywall:

• the partition reduces the internal volume of the room;
• even moisture-resistant material loses its initial characteristics upon prolonged contact with water;
• increased requirements for fine finishing, which includes the need to reinforce the seams with a mesh, followed by puttying and grouting the surface;
• additional assistance is required, since it is difficult to carry out installation on your own, especially in the absence of proper experience.

Sheets are mounted in two ways: frame and frameless. Each has its own technology, scope. The first option involves the installation of a crate, it is carried out with a significant curvature of the walls, when installing additional insulation, soundproofing the room, and also when it is necessary to hide the wires.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging a drywall construction:

• Wallpaper, the “moving” parts of the old coating, are removed from the surface.
• Having drawn a line on the ceiling, mark the outer edge of the location of the sheets. Transfer the border to the floor using a plumb line.
• On the walls, mark the position of the vertical racks (three units per sheet) and the attachment points of the suspensions necessary for adjustment.
• Having fixed the damper tape on the guides (using dowels every 30-40 cm), they are attached to the ceiling, floor.
• Having drilled holes in the wall, mount the suspensions.
• The vertical racks are fixed with self-tapping screws, checking their position with a level and pre-installing them in the guides. Then they are fixed on suspensions, bending the protruding parts to the sides.
• If necessary, in places of horizontal joints, additional jumpers are mounted, which add rigidity to the frame.
• Holes are drilled for switches, sockets, and chamfers of 45˚ are made at the joints of the sheets.
• Prepared drywall fragments (of the required size) are fastened with hardware to the crate, slightly sinking the heads into the material.
• At the final stage, the surfaces are puttied and the wallpaper and tiles are glued.

GKL fastening with glue

With this method, if the planes are relatively flat and do not need preparation, the sheets are mounted directly on the base.

The order of work is as follows:

• The old coating is removed, the protrusions are knocked down and, having expanded the existing cracks, they are sealed with mortar.
• The walls are treated with a deep penetration primer.
• Prepare, cut drywall.
• A special glue is applied to each sheet in the form of strips along the perimeter plus several dotted elements inside it.
• The workpiece is pressed against the wall. Check its position relative to the plane and, if everything is in order, hold for a minute, waiting for the adhesive mixture to set.

It is very important to set the first skin element correctly, since all the others will be joined to it. To facilitate the task and prevent sheets from slipping, in the lower part at the level of the plinth, a rake is screwed y. It, holding the fragments in the right position until the glue is completely dry, will ensure reliable adhesion of the surfaces. Then it is removed and the installation site is covered with a plinth.

Before gluing the wallpaper, the finishing treatment of the plasterboard begins:

• connecting seams are covered with reinforcing mesh and putty;
• after waiting for their hardening, grouting is carried out with the help of fine sandpaper;
• the surface is primed twice, taking a break in work until each layer is completely dry;
• before gluing the wallpaper, the plane is puttied again, but in the case of tiling, decorative stone, this is not necessary.

By correctly determining the amount of work to be done, the consumption of material and, having assessed the quality of the walls, it is possible to significantly simplify the repair. Indeed, with a slight curvature, there is no need to erect a frame and install GKL sheets. Then, to obtain the desired result, in order to eliminate small irregularities, it is enough to clean and level all surfaces with plaster.

Aligning the walls is a problem solved by the owners on their own or with the involvement of specialists. Geometrically correct, impeccably smooth walls of the apartment make a pleasant impression on both residents and guests. Old houses often cannot boast of evenness and geometric correctness of structures. Aligning the walls is also required in new buildings, if the finishing has not yet been completed or produced for a number of reasons is of poor quality.

How to align the walls in the apartment with your own hands

The choice of alignment method depends on the degree of unevenness of the walls. If the walls collapse (deviate from verticality), go with a screw, have depressions or bulges, drops on their surface, uneven corners, then the walls are leveled in two main ways:

• plastering;
• installation of drywall sheets (gypsum board).

Each of these methods has two varieties. So plastering is performed without the use of beacons (if the irregularities are not too large) or is carried out using beacon strips. The use of beacons allows you to make a flat surface without much effort and quickly. Without beacons, you can align the corners or small flaws.

Dry plaster (application of drywall) is also performed by one of two options:

• drywall sheets are glued directly to the wall surface;
• for fastening the HL make a frame.

Regardless of the method of fixing drywall, it may be necessary to plaster it, for example, at joints, for painting or decorative plaster.

The third main way is to level the walls with putty. Puttying is used if it is only necessary to smooth the surface thoroughly for wallpapering or applying a paint layer. Putty also eliminates pores or covers minor defects.

Often, putty is used before performing thin-layer decorative plaster, for example, Venetian plaster, which requires perfect evenness of the base surface.

Dry plaster is not used to level the outer surfaces (house facade), since gypsum and drywall sheets do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, only one external leveling method (out of all listed) is available - plastering.

Whatever wall alignment technology you choose, all operations should be performed correctly in order to avoid the appearance of technological defects.

Wall plastering

In general, plastering is a series of actions to create a monolithic surface from hardening compounds. The compositions are applied to the prepared base with a layer of a certain thickness. For each composition, there is a maximum and minimum possible layer thickness (this data is indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer of the mixture).

The material used to line the walls

As a rule, to perform plastering to level the curved surface, compositions are used on or on the basis. In suburban wooden or adobe buildings, alignment is especially often done using. are low cost and readily available. They can be made with your own hands, observing the proportions of the components.

However, wall leveling materials are not limited to mineral mortars. In new buildings, where shrinkage processes have not yet stopped, as well as in places with vibration coming from the railway track or seismically active areas, mineral compositions are not used because of their inability to withstand such loads. They are successfully replaced with mixtures having elasticity, for example, or others. Their high cost pays off with operation.

For leveling plastering of facades, as well as damp rooms (for example), it is recommended to use mixtures with a cement binder. For interior work - gypsum or lime simple compositions, or complex (gypsum-lime, cement-lime, etc.).

Manufacturers offer mixtures (dry or ready-made) in their lines, specially designed for leveling ceilings or walls. Of the many mixtures, it is better to choose those that are released by well-known companies that care about their reputation.

Plastering walls without installing beacons

Visual alignment of the walls is resorted to if the walls are almost even or minor correction is required. For example, if you only need to smooth the walls for painting, this is done by puttying or grinding using a composition with a fine fraction filler.

Leveling plastering without the use of beacons is done when the thickness of the applied layers is relatively small. Without lighthouses, it is much more difficult to achieve a smooth surface than with them, so only experienced plasterers can perform such work with high quality. If you are a beginner in the plastering business, then either entrust it to specialists. When performing plastering by this method, the verticality and evenness of the surface during operation is checked using a level and a rule.

Leveling plastering (with or without beacons) is performed in several passes (layers are applied in stages) with different compositions:

1. The first layer of spray is applied - a solution similar in consistency to semi-liquid sour cream. It provides adhesion to the base of subsequent compositions.
2. The next layer is soil (or base). Solution of normal consistency. Depending on the total thickness of the leveling coating, it can be carried out in several passes.
3. The top layer is called the lining. It is performed with a semi-liquid solution, the filler of which has only a fine fraction. This layer is not necessary if the subsequent (finishing) finish does not require a perfectly smooth base.

The name "spray" comes from the method of application. Experienced plasterers apply the spray using a ladle. It can also be applied with a trowel. Small portions of the mixture are thrown onto the base by moving the tool away from you so that the plaster “sour cream”, hitting and spreading with force, sticks to the wall. The spray is applied without leaving gaps.

The surface of the spray is not leveled, but on the contrary, it is drawn with horizontal stripes with a sharp corner of the spatula. This creates additional conditions for increasing adhesion. The thickness of the spray can be different. For sheathed shingles, the thickness is 15-18 mm, for or masonry, a sufficient layer of mortar is 10-12 mm.

Some craftsmen apply the spray with a brush without making a wide sweep of the hand so that the spray does not scatter around. A brush is used if the base does not have large drops (relatively even). "Spray" can also be "smeared" with a spatula. A portion of the solution is collected on the tool, transferred to the wall with strokes with a slight indentation. They do not make a particularly flat surface.

After complete drying, the spray is applied with a trowel (if the layer is thick) or a primer with a spatula. The surface of the layer is leveled with a rule or a grater. Plastering is carried out in sections (approximate area per square meter). When leveling, the rule immediately identifies areas where the solution is not enough. They are filled with excess solution removed from the rule.

The corners are leveled with a corner spatula or with other devices (the process can be viewed on the video).

If there is a finish - tiling or, covering is not required. In this case, the surface of the last layer of soil is rubbed with a grater or a trowel, making circular movements. Make grout after the solution grabs and stops sticking to the fingers.

To obtain a smooth surface, a coating is performed (layer up to 2 mm). After wetting the surface, apply a little solution to it, which is smoothed with a grater or trowel with rounded edges. Passing the tool along the top of the layer, where there are convex places, the grater is pressed against the wall more strongly, no pressure is made over the recesses. Excess solution collected on a grater is removed.

If the coating composition is prepared independently, then the bulk components are sifted through a mesh with cells up to 1 mm.

Having rubbed the entire area in a circle, they proceed to the longitudinal grouting - rectilinear movements. The first pass is vertical, the second pass is horizontal. During grouting, small pores are filled with mortar milk, and protruding irregularities are removed with a tool.

With multi-layer plastering, each layer must be dried (usually a day).

Alignment of walls with plaster on lighthouses

This method is easily mastered by beginners, since beacon strips act as a help in maintaining the finishing plane.

Lighthouse is a plank whose profile has a smooth, straight upper edge.

Leaning on the edges of two beacons, as a rule, cut off the excess mortar protruding above the plane specified by the beacons with the edge of the tool.

Lighthouse slats can be made of metal, wood, plastic or mortar, such as plaster. Metal strips are standard and have a height of at least 6 mm. Install beacons on the wall vertically. The extreme beacons are moved away from the corners of the wall by 20-30 cm. Intermediate beacons are placed between the extreme beacons, maintaining a distance not exceeding the length of the rule minus 20 cm (usually it is easier for beginners to manage when the distance between the beacons is up to 1.5 m).

In addition to the distance between the beacons, they withstand their excess above the wall surface, since the top of the beacons must be in a single vertical plane. To create this plane, the geometry of the wall is first examined, its most protruding point is determined. To it is added the minimum thickness of the plaster coating (total spatter and soil). They are guided by this point, setting the extreme beacons.

You can do this in various ways. The simplest setting of beacons using a laser level. To support the planks of the beacons on the wall, mortar or support pads assembled from several pieces of drywall are used. Pieces of drywall are glued to the base on a solution that dries quickly (beacons are attached to the sites on it). How to install beacons, look at the video.

The application of plaster layers is similar to plastering without beacons (spray, primer and coating). Layers are applied between the planks of two adjacent beacons. The spray is applied sequentially, on the entire wall. The soil is applied by moving between two lighthouses. If the thickness of the soil layer does not reach the top of the lighthouses, the layer is slightly leveled with a trowel or spatula. The top of the spray usually does not protrude above the beacons.

When the applied solution of the top layer of soil rises 1.5-2 cm above the beacons, they begin to level the mixture with the rule. To do this, the bar of the rules is placed horizontally, and, resting it on the edges of the lighthouses, they lead vertically, making zigzag movements. At the same time, excess plaster composition protruding above the planks is cut off.

The cut solution is thrown off with a spatula from the rule into a container or applied where the solution is lacking. The rule is to carry out 2-3 movements from the bottom up, then make one cutting movement from the top down (to fix the composition and prevent its slipping).

The areas between the two beacons are plastered not immediately from top to bottom, but in sections up to 1 m high. Having leveled one area, apply the solution to the next one. This is how they plaster section by section between two lighthouses, then proceed to plastering the gap between the next pair of lighthouses. The corner sections are plastered last.

After the soil has set, the lighthouse strips are removed, the grooves formed are filled with mortar and leveled with a spatula. Only beacons made from mortar do not require removal. After the composition has set in the grooves, the wall surface is rubbed (with or without coating).

Alignment of walls with drywall - dry plaster

It will not be superfluous to get acquainted with how walls are leveled without plaster. Sometimes surfaces can be leveled much faster by installing drywall sheets - hl, which immediately set the desired geometry. Evenness is ensured by the original geometry of drywall and correct installation.

Installation of drywall without a frame

Performing the alignment of the walls in the apartment by planting drywall sheets on glue (without frame lathing), makes it possible for the homeowner to save precious floor space. Instead, the work itself becomes more difficult. Since the wall can go with a screw, be “falling” in one direction or another, right angles between the walls cannot be maintained, beacons, usually made from pieces of drywall, are of particular importance. It is on them that a sheet of drywall sheathing will be based.

Making beacons can take a long time. To fasten one beacon, they make a kind of frame - they stick a stack of plasterboard rectangles, twist wide-headed screws or hammer in slate nails. The top of the caps of all wall screws should lie in the same plane (verified in any way possible). Each such frame is surrounded by a slide of gypsum-adhesive composition, making a flat top.

An easier method is used if the wall is more even. After priming and drying, an adhesive composition is applied pointwise (slides) to the base (or to the attached drywall sheet). The sheet is applied to the beacons, and, following its verticality, is pressed against the wall. To adjust the position, you can lightly tap on the sheet. It is better to press down the sheet with a rule with a level.

Without frame mounting method - video

Frame method of mounting drywall

The most popular way to level walls without plaster using drywall is frame. If you are not embarrassed by such a disadvantage of the method as hiding the space of the room by at least 5 cm on each side, then in this way the room can not only be leveled, but parallel and insulated, as well as reduce the level of incoming noise. The space between the wall and the HL is easy to fill with insulating or soundproofing material, and the base does not require such preparation as plastering.

Preparation of the base consists in removing the old coating (if there are serious defects in the building structures, for example, cracks, they, of course, are “healed”), priming, and drying. For a primer, choose a tool that prevents the appearance of mold and other microorganisms. If the walls are subject to wetting due to the rise of groundwater along them, waterproofing and sanitizing work is performed.

To create a frame, profiles are used (most often metal), which are installed vertically with great care, since they set the plane of the future wall surface. Gkl have a standard width - 1.2 m, so the profiles are mounted by setting the distance between their axes - 60 cm. With this arrangement, it is convenient to place insulating mats, and each sheet of drywall is attached in three lines.

The verticality of standard frame profiles is adjusted by attaching them to brackets - direct suspension. The design of the latter allows you to adjust the distance of the profile from the wall. The exact alignment of the frame sets the ideal plane created by the drywall sheets attached to it with self-tapping screws. After installation, the joints of the hl are sealed, the top of the sheets is primed and puttied.

The completion of leveling the surface of the walls can be the application of putty. The putty layer is able to form the smoothest surface, since the leveling putty mixture contains the smallest filler. It is plastic, easy to apply and fit on any base. It can even be used instead of decorative plaster.

Putty is applied in a thin layer using a wide spatula or trowel. The mass, sensitive to the slightest touch, is too easily given to any touch of the instrument. Therefore, for a smooth application, the hand needs to be “stuffed”.

Usually putty is applied in two passes, using the starting mixture for the first layer, and the finishing mixture for the second. If defects (irregularities, furrows) are obtained during the application of the layer, they are immediately leveled, since the putty quickly gains strength after setting.

Perfect smoothness is achieved by grinding the finish layer. For grinding work, use a grinder or rub it by hand. To highlight possible irregularities, side lighting is used.

Methods for determining surface roughness

The degree of unevenness is detected visually or instrumentally with measurements. Knowing the size and type of deviations from the ideal geometric shape allows you to make a rational decision when choosing a correction method, as well as calculate the approximate amount of materials needed. How to check how and how uneven the wall surface is?

To identify irregularities and their magnitude, a long (2-2.5 m) even rail with a section of 20 x 50 mm or a rule of the same length, as well as a level or plumb line, is used. Applying the rail to the wall vertically, horizontally and diagonally, observe the deviation of the wall surface from the plane. To check the perpendicularity of the structures to each other and the ceiling, use a square or measuring devices (tape measure, cord).

Lines are drawn horizontally on the walls forming the corner and measured from the corner on one wall - 2 m, on the other - 1.5. The legs of a right triangle are formed, the hypotenuse of which (the distance between the marked points) should be 2.5 m. The distance less or more will show, respectively, an acute or obtuse angle between the walls.

Verticality or fall is checked using a plumb or level. This and the previous geometric checks can be done quickly and easily with a laser level.

Preparing surfaces for leveling

The main methods for leveling and determining the curvature of the surface have already been described above, but preparation must be carried out before starting work.

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of the preparatory work - so much preparation affects the quality of the entire finishing complex. Work on leveling the walls begins with the removal of decorative finishes (wallpaper, cladding, layers of paint or whitewash). The released surface is examined visually and with the help of a simple tool. Identification of defects in the plaster layer.

Having identified the nature of the deviations, proceed to the initial correction. If the plaster coating is strong, does not have, then excessively large protrusions or bulges are cut down. If there are many defects, and the coating is deemed unusable, it is removed to the ground.

Wall structures can be made of brick, monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete, wood, made of stone or cellular concrete blocks. The type of wall material determines part of the preparatory work that increases the adhesion strength (adhesion). For example, masonry made of stone or brick requires grouting (deepening by 0.5-1.0 cm), concrete surfaces require notches to ensure strong adhesion of the mortar to smooth concrete.

Shingles are stuffed on wooden surfaces or wire mesh is attached. Measures to increase adhesion cannot be neglected, since plastering creates a coating that has a large dead weight.

The preparatory measures include cleaning the base from stains of various kinds. Oil stains must be degreased. Rot, fungus, mold are scraped out, washed out and treated with an antibiotic agent.

Efflorescence, rust, soot are removed in various ways. To prevent new rust from appearing, all unnecessary metal parts are removed from the wall, the remaining ones are isolated, for example, with oil paint. To prevent efflorescence, high-quality waterproofing of the walls is made.

During internal work, hidden wiring is de-energized. At the same time, sockets and switches are often replaced, that is, the old covers are removed, the ends of the wires are insulated, and the boxes are sealed for the duration of plastering with masking tape. After carrying out all the finishing work, new electrical appliances are installed.

Cracks, chips and other defects in the base are repaired. The surface of the base is cleaned of dust. A primer is applied that matches both the wall material and the plaster mortar. The preparatory work also includes reinforcement and installation of beacons. The base must not only be cleaned, but also dried.

Preparatory work in stages:

• removal of the old coating;
• base cleaning;
• defect repair;
• applying a primer;
• drying;
• reinforcement;
• installation of beacons.

What you need to level the walls

Alignment of the walls requires the preparation of the necessary materials, tools and fixtures

For plastering you will need:

• trowel or trowel;
• spatulas of different sizes;
• grater or half grater;
• rule;
• paint brush (for wetting and priming);
• mixer;
• roller;
• level;
• roulette;
• masking tape;
• lace;
• containers;
• lighthouse slats;
• jointing or a tool replacing it;
• hammer and hacksaw (for stuffing shingles);
• clean rag.

In addition, you may need a tool to remove old plaster.

For external plastering, scaffolding or scaffolding will be needed, a canopy device that protects the solution from rain and sun. For interior decoration - ladder, scaffolding.

From consumables you need to stock up:

• plaster mixtures (or their components in case of self-preparation of the composition);
• primer;
• shingles (for plastering wooden structures);
• reinforcing mesh;
• fastening elements (nails for stuffing shingles, self-tapping screws, dowels for fixing the mesh).

Gallery

For a visual representation of how to align the walls with your own hands, a selection of photographs has been made for you. You can see how the masters perform the plastering work, how to properly hold the tools, how the surface should look during processing.

Application of the final layer of plaster Partial alignment of the walls under the rule at the junction between the plates

The most important thing in the process of leveling walls with your own hands is to perform operations consistently, without haste, achieving quality at every stage. In the future, you will be able to use your experience more than once when repairing or building a new house.

The durability and appearance of the finishing of the walls largely depend on the quality and correctness of the preliminary leveling of the base. Therefore, it is very important to learn how to level the wall with your own hands in order to obtain a perfectly flat surface. Before proceeding with the decoration of the walls with tiles, wallpaper, paint and other materials, it is necessary to eliminate irregularities and any kind of surface defects. Even the slightest flaws will eventually lead to a noticeable deterioration in the appearance of the finish, and you will have to redo the repair.

Ways to level walls

The curvature of the walls can be leveled in two main ways, namely:

• wet, involving the use of various kinds of mixtures;
• dry, carried out by arranging plasterboard structures.

Both methods have many advantages and some disadvantages.

It is usually used to eliminate minor differences (up to 30-50 mm) in walls of a small area. If desired, of course, with the help of a plaster mixture, more significant defects in huge rooms can be eliminated, but this will lead to irrational financial and labor costs.

Building mixtures do not reduce free space, and this is their main advantage. However, wet leveling is inevitably accompanied by the formation of dust and dirt.

Drywall allows you to eliminate large drops and uneven surfaces.

The main advantage of drywall constructions is that there is no need to pre-level the base before installing the frame and the sheathing sheets directly. It is only important that there are no crumbling areas of finish.

In addition, the cells of the supporting structure can be filled with noise and heat insulation. If necessary, various kinds of communications are easily hidden in the plasterboard structure.

At the same time, the installation of the frame and sheets leads to some reduction in the usable space of the room.

On sale are simple and moisture-resistant modifications of drywall. Material with moisture-resistant properties is usually green, while simple drywall is gray.

Thickness	Size	Square	Weight
12.5mm	1200x2500 mm	3 sq.m	28.9 kg
12.5mm	1200x2700 mm	3.24 sq.m	31.2 kg
12.5mm	1200x3000 mm	3.6 sq.m	34.7 kg

Preparing walls for leveling

Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls, the surface must be properly prepared. In particular, the preparation of the base before plastering is important. In the case of arranging a drywall structure, preliminary preparation in most situations can be waived.

Preparation is reduced to the elimination of existing finishes and old plaster. Next, the surface is primed. Brushes and rollers can be used to apply the primer coat, but the best result is achieved when using a sprayer. Thanks to the primer, the quality of adhesion of the plaster to the surface of the base will be improved.

The primer dries in about 12 hours. After this time, you can start applying the plaster composition.

Leveling walls with plaster

Work begins with the installation of special beacon lines. They will allow you to apply the highest quality.

First step

Fix the beacons on different sides of the wall being processed. Check the verticality of the installation of the profiles with a plumb line.

Second step

Prepare about 10 liters of cement mortar (you simply won’t have time to use a larger amount until the mixture becomes unusable). Instead of cement plaster, other existing mixtures can be used.

Third step

Apply in large strokes to the surface between the beacon profiles.

Fourth step

Carefully align the applied mixture along the beacon profiles. For alignment, use a rule or a simple, even rail of a suitable length.

Add the mixture and spread it over the surface until the base is level with the beacons.

Carefully trim the corners with a spatula.

If you decide to use a factory dry mix, prepare and apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions. When choosing such a mixture, be sure to pay attention to the type of "binding" component.

So, gypsum-based mixtures are intended for use in living rooms, because. gypsum does not violate the normal microclimate in the room. Cement plasters are better suited for bathrooms, kitchens and other rooms with a high level of humidity.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Leveling the base with drywall

If the dimensions of the base irregularities exceed 50 mm, it would be more rational to use the method of leveling the walls, which involves the arrangement of a plasterboard structure.

Any special - the main thing is that there are no crumbling fragments on the walls. Clean up such areas if found.

The frame for fastening the sheets is assembled from a galvanized profile specially designed for this. Several types of profiles are used.

The main UD profile is attached to the ceiling, floor and adjacent walls. Jumper functions are performed by the CD-profile.

First step. Attach the vertical profile to the previously listed surfaces. Use dowels to fix. As a result, you should get a reliable support frame.

The first profile must be installed directly next to the side wall. Fasten the following profiles in 60 cm increments. The second end profile must also be fixed close to the wall, even if the distance between it and the nearest profile is less than 60 cm.

The standard width of the sheathing sheet is 120 cm. With the mentioned profile spacing, the plasterboard panel will be fixed at the edges and in the center. In this case, measure the distance from the center of the profiles.

Second step. Proceed with the installation of jumpers from the CD-rails. Sheathing sheets will be attached to these profiles.

Fasten the profiles with their edges to the surface of the base, turning them with a wide edge into the room.

Use self-tapping screws to connect profiles.

To strengthen the structure, special suspensions must be included in its composition. Stiffening ribs are located in the center of the suspensions, the ends of the products are perforated.

The suspension must be bent in the form of the letter U and attached to the wall under each vertical profile. Place the fastener in the center of the suspension. Attach the "ears" of the hangers to the profiles.

Control the evenness of the installation of profiles.

Proceed with the installation of sheathing sheets. Use self-tapping screws for fastening. At this stage, you will need an electric screwdriver - with its help, the work will go easier and faster.

Embed the heads of the self-tapping screws into the material. Place self-tapping screws in increments of 100-150 mm. Fastening is carried out in the center of the sheet and along its perimeter. Typically, center lines are present on the face of drywall sheets to facilitate fixing.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire height of the surface, add in the missing places. The sheet cutting technology is as follows: you cut the top paper layer, carefully break the sheet in the required place and cut the second paper layer.

Attach additional pieces to the jumpers from the CD-profile, fixed between the vertical posts.

After sheathing the entire frame, you just have to putty the joints of the sheets, treat the surface with a primer and finish with the selected material.

Read step-by-step instructions, as in our new article.

Successful work!

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Video - How to align the walls with your own hands

TOP-5 best wall drywall manufacturers

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1		Knauf	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Gyproc	⭐ 98 / 100
#3		Lafarge	⭐ 97 / 100
#4		Volma	⭐ 96 / 100
#5		Rigips	⭐ 95 / 100

Knauf

For the production of drywall, Knauf uses the most modern technologies, which confirms its high quality and maximum service life. The sheet standard is 2.5x1.2 m, there are other sizes. One sheet can weigh from 12 to 30 kg. The manufacturer produces material not only of European quality, there are also budget options that meet German quality standards.

• low coefficient of thermal expansion;
• flexibility within certain limits without damage;
• the presence of rounded edges;
• reinforcement of the material with fiberglass;
• easy to process.

1. Materials for leveling walls, which is better to use.
2. What tool is needed to achieve the best result.
3. Surface preparation for wallpapering.
4. The specifics of leveling the walls for wallpapering.
5. Putty, features of finishing alignment.
6. The subtleties of leveling the walls under the rule.

Smooth, smooth walls are a sign of a good, solid and expensive repair. But is it always necessary to pay good money for smooth walls? This article describes various ways to level walls for wallpapering, as well as some features of other types of room decoration, which directly depend on the evenness of the walls.

1. Materials for leveling walls, which is better to use

Today there is a fairly wide choice of materials for leveling walls, these are various plaster mixtures, sand-cement and gypsum, for manual and machine application, as well as various types of putties, cement, gypsum and polymer. All these materials are designed to achieve the desired result easier and faster.

Sand-cement plaster mixture is a thing for all time. This plaster mixture has several advantages:

It is very cheap compared to gypsum mixtures;
- universal, can be used both indoors and outdoors;
- very easy to use;
- Suitable for manual and machine application.

Of the shortcomings:

Not plastic, for plasticity it is necessary to add lime milk;
- the consumption of finishing materials increases, at least twice;
- it is extremely difficult to apply on concrete bases, it is impossible to apply a thin layer of 2-3 mm, it can fall off.

Gypsum mixtures are by far the best for interior decoration, and with skillful use, in some cases, you can do without puttying. All gypsum mixtures are divided into two groups, machine and manual application, their main difference is the setting time, the viability of mixtures for manual application is approximately two times shorter than that of mixtures for machine application. Another difference is the price of a plaster mixture for machine application is much cheaper, and since their properties are the same, it can be used for plastering by hand.

2. What tool is needed to achieve the best result

To align the walls, you need the following tool, several trapezoidal rules of different lengths 3, 2 and one meter. Mixer and container for mixing the solution. Level and rectangular rule for installing beacons, if necessary. Perforator, screwdriver, dowels and self-tapping screws of various lengths. A roller for priming and to simplify the placement of beacons, a laser level that can show planes. Roughly like this:

3. Surface preparation for wallpapering

The degree of readiness of the walls for wallpapering largely depends on the choice of the wallpaper itself. The dependence is as follows, the thinner the wallpaper, the more carefully the walls are prepared, because thin wallpaper not only shines through, but also emphasizes all the irregularities. A very important point is lighting, the closer the lighting fixtures to the walls, the smoother the walls should be. But all these problems are solved by themselves if the walls are plastered under the lighthouse, in this case everything is simplified, since the walls are brought to an ideal state. Before you start leveling the walls for wallpapering, they must be prepared. To do this, remove the old wallpaper, if any, remove all sockets and switches, insulate the ends of the wires, prime the walls, treat concrete surfaces with concrete contact.

Next, we proceed directly to leveling by any of the methods listed below, we finish the leveled walls with putty, grind with sandpaper or diamond mesh and primer before wallpapering to even out the absorbency of the walls.

4. The specifics of leveling walls for wallpapering

Alignment of walls with plaster mixtures for wallpaper can be divided into three ways. The first way is the most expensive and simplest plaster on lighthouses, the walls are even in all planes.

The second method is more economical, leveling the walls under the rule. The difference between the second method and the first is that the planes of the walls are leveled, but without maintaining the level. Savings occur due to a decrease in the amount of the mixture, at least 2.5 times, and work costs 20-30% cheaper. In this case, the walls are even, but there will be some restrictions on the wallpaper, you need to avoid wallpaper with a vertical striped pattern and wallpaper with a fit, since vertical stripes will immediately give out the absence of a vertical level, and the wallpaper with a fit will not fit in the corners due to the pattern shift .

The third method is the cheapest alignment of corners and junctions, as a rule, the requirements for choosing wallpaper, as in the second method. The difference between the third method and the second is that not the entire wall is leveled, but only 50-70 cm of the surface from the floor, ceiling and corners. Here only a kind of evenness is created, because you and I, without any measuring instruments or tools, see everything relatively, therefore, in the absence of the opportunity to finance a global and thorough repair, but with the right selection of wallpaper and lighting installation, you can visually align and update absolutely any room . But there is no need to think that if there are fewer tasks for leveling, then the task will be simplified, the opposite is true. Because many masters are put into a stupor by such tasks, it is easier for them to put beacons and plaster on them than to think how to make everything out of nothing.

5. Putty, features of finishing alignment

Puttying is necessary in order to eliminate the shortcomings of plastering or leveling with coarser mixtures. Puttying is divided into 3 stages.

1. Applying a base coat - to remove large defects such as shells, pits, stripes and stains from the rule.

2. Applying a finishing layer - to smooth out minor flaws in the base layer, it is not always needed, only before painting or gluing thin wallpapers.

3. Sanding - to remove trowel marks and final leveling. The peculiarity of the final leveling or puttying lies in the method of application and the consistency of the solution. The mortar must be thick enough to smooth out irregularities up to 3x4mm when applied. at a time and do not shrink when dry. It is better to apply the putty in a circular motion, rubbing in cross directions, so the maximum effect is achieved on uneven walls, and the thick mortar will not allow the spatula to touch the wall, thereby preventing the so-called effect of putty on peeling.

6. The subtleties of leveling the walls under the rule

The alignment of the walls under the rule has some subtleties. The most important thing is that all connections from the top and bottom, all corners, according to the rule, should be even, when installing ceilings and skirting boards, the effect of good even walls is created. The next moment, all doorways are leveled or very close to it, no more than 5 mm. the entire height of the door, so that the installer will install the door correctly. The walls in the kitchen, especially the part where the set will be located, it is better to plaster under the lighthouse and it is advisable to maintain an angle of 90 degrees with the wall, where the corner part of the set will be, if provided by the kitchen design. I do not recommend doing this work yourself if you do not have the relevant experience, since the more you mess up, the more expensive it will be to fix it by specialists. Therefore, it is better to immediately turn to professionals to save your time. Done right, you can get great results for less money.

Our .

A mandatory procedure for major or cosmetic repairs of premises is the alignment of the walls. The problem of uneven surfaces with a large number of visual defects is typical for any type of building - from multi-storey new buildings to private country cottages. Such surfaces are difficult to paint, wallpaper, decorate with decorative plaster compositions or sheet materials. How and with what are the walls leveled to make a professional and high-quality repair?

Why you need to level the walls

Work with facing materials begins with the proper preparation of surfaces, and for this it is necessary:

• Eliminate existing irregularities and visual defects.
• Improve the adhesion of the surface to the lining.
• Improve the quality of the finish.
• Ensure long service life of materials.

Proper surface preparation directly affects the appearance and quality of the finished coating. Uneven surfaces are susceptible to cracking, warping and breaking the integrity of the cladding.

What can be used for alignment

To level the walls, modern functional mixtures and sheet materials with high performance characteristics are used. For the correct choice of leveling material, it is necessary to understand its purpose and features of use.

Dry mixes

The easiest and most affordable way to level walls is to use special dry mixes for the preparation of leveling mortars. These include:

cement mixtures

The main components are cement and sand of medium fraction. To increase plasticity, ordinary lime is used. Such mixtures are of two types: cement-sand and cement-lime. Cement mixtures with coarse sand are intended for rough work, with fine sand for finishing. Significant disadvantages are susceptibility to cracking, low adhesion and setting time. Mixtures with the addition of lime are more practical and versatile.

Gypsum mixes

Such mixtures are widely used for leveling surfaces of various curvature. They have high plasticity, excellent soundproofing and heat-saving characteristics. Some types of gypsum compounds provide good adhesion to the surface.

Clay mixes

Often, environmentally friendly mixtures based on natural clay are used to level surfaces. Sawdust, chopped straw and chalk can be added to the finished solution. Such a coating provides good thermal insulation of the walls and reduces heat loss in winter.

Thermal insulation mixtures

The active active components of heat-insulating mixtures are cement, lime and polystyrene foam balls. Their low thermal conductivity ensures the accumulation of heat indoors even with sudden temperature changes. The only drawback is the high hygroscopicity of the solution.

Sheet materials

Another equally effective way to eliminate the curvature of surfaces is the use of sheet materials. Suitable for these purposes:

• Sheet drywall (regular and waterproof).
• Gypsum panels.
• Panels made of chipboard, PVC and MDF.

They have strength, resistance to increased moisture and mechanical stress, practicality and durability. In addition, these materials provide excellent sound and heat insulation.

Effective wall leveling methods

To quickly and accurately align curved walls in a private house or apartment, several effective methods are used:

• Plastering.
• Display of lighthouses.
• Puttying.
• Drywall installation.

Plastering

You can quickly level the surface with the help of cement and gypsum plaster compositions. They are resistant to the negative effects of moisture, temperature extremes, environmental safety and practicality. Often used for wall cladding in bedrooms, nurseries, living rooms and other rooms.

Plastering is carried out in the following order:

1. Wall preparation: dismantling the old coating, cleaning the surface from existing defects, processing with a deep penetration primer.
2. Fixation of plaster fine-mesh mesh to increase the adhesion of the composition to the surface.
3. Preparation of plaster according to the instructions and application to the surface of the walls with a trowel, uniform distribution with a spatula. Excess plaster is removed by the rule.

Exposure of lighthouses

In some cases, plastering of surfaces is carried out on beacons from a T-shaped metal profile or wooden slats. This is a fairly simple and effective technology for leveling various surfaces, which you can master on your own.

Profiles or rails are installed in a vertical plane from the corners along the perimeter of the room. Self-tapping screws are used for fixing. The minimum distance between adjacent elements is 50 cm.

Guide cords are pulled between the fixed beacons for the correct application of the plaster.

Puttying

Leveling the walls with putty is the final step in eliminating minor visual defects before using decorative cladding. Puttying is carried out after the walls have been treated with a plaster composition.

Step by step instructions for puttying:

1. Wall preparation: sanding with fine-grained sandpaper, dusting, priming.
2. There are two types of putty: a ready-made composition and a dry mix for preparing a thick solution.
3. For puttying it is necessary to use a special tool - a spatula. A narrow spatula is used to take the solution, and a wide spatula is used to spread it on the surface. If there are significant vertical deviations, a building leveler is provided for leveling the putty - the rule.
4. When applying putty in two layers, the first layer is additionally treated with a primer.
5. After the puttying is completed, the wall surfaces are carefully polished until small irregularities are eliminated.

Drywall installation

You can qualitatively align the walls in the apartment with sheet material - drywall. A similar method is used for significant surface curvature and a large number of visual defects.

In this case, the best solution is to hide wall irregularities behind a plasterboard frame, inside which you can lay the necessary communications, sound and heat insulation materials.

There are two options for leveling walls with drywall: frame and adhesive.

Frame method

This method allows you to level walls with varying degrees of curvature. The basis is a frame made of metal profiles or a wooden beam, on which drywall sheets are sewn.

Assembly is performed in the following sequence:

1. The first frame guides are mounted strictly horizontally to the floor and ceiling.
2. The profiles are marked for the installation of vertical guides in increments of 55 cm. With the help of a plumb line, vertical lines are marked on which the installation curtains are fixed.
3. Carriers are installed in the guides along vertical lines.
4. Each structural element is aligned in a single plane and fixed to the curtains.
5. Drywall sheets are mounted to the assembled frame with screws.
6. A fine-mesh mesh is glued to the joints between the sheets, the joints and holes for the fasteners are carefully sealed with a gypsum putty mixture.

Adhesive method

This is a cheaper and faster way to level walls that have minor level differences of 3–5 cm. Installation of sheet drywall is carried out on a cleaned surface using an adhesive.

All work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Wall preparation: cleaning from dirt and processing with a primer.
2. Cutting sheet material. Measurements are taken to determine the number of sheets, taking into account the location of the main electrical installation products.
3. Drawing control lines on the ceiling and floor surfaces.
4. Installing drywall sheets. Glue or gypsum plaster is applied to concrete or brick walls with cakes in increments of 35 cm. The volume of the composition is determined taking into account the curvature of the surfaces.
5. Installation starts from the corner. Drywall is applied to the wall, leveled and pressed tightly onto the adhesive cakes. Control floor and ceiling lines will help to check the correct installation of drywall.
6. Additional fixation of sheets to the surface with dowels.
7. Processing of joints and places of installation of fasteners with gypsum-based putty.

Features of wall alignment

In order to correctly level the walls for different types of decorative coatings, it is necessary to take into account their operating conditions. For example, in rooms with high humidity - kitchen, bathroom, balcony - it is better to level the walls with cement compounds. But for rooms with moderate temperature conditions - a bedroom, a nursery and a living room - it is worth using gypsum-based compositions.

Absolutely any type of surface can be made even if you use sheet material mounted on a metal frame. This method ensures the creation of a perfectly even base for plastering and puttying.

Wallpapering

You can solve the problem with uneven surfaces for wallpapering in any convenient way - by plastering with further puttying or installing drywall.

To prevent cracking of the putty layer under the wallpaper, its thickness should be minimal and be 1.5–2 mm.

Panel houses

Not all types of compositions are suitable for eliminating wall irregularities in panel houses. Curved concrete walls can be leveled with a wet method using gypsum or cement-lime plaster compositions. They provide high adhesion to the surface, which is not possible in the case of cement-based and sand-based compositions.

Surfaces with large curvature

To straighten walls with large differences, it is better to use a metal frame and sheet material. Other alignment methods are not economically viable because they require a lot of material and labor costs.

New buildings

Modern high-rise buildings are being built using more affordable and cheaper materials - foam concrete, aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete, ceramic blocks and hollow bricks.

They have a lot of advantages, but at the same time they are not without a significant drawback - they have an uneven surface. Such materials are used not only for the construction of external walls, but also for laying internal partitions.

Alignment of walls in new buildings can be performed using universal plaster compositions that will hide the visual defects of the material.

Old houses

The main problem of old houses is the physical deterioration of the material from which the wall structures are built. As a result of long-term operation, the inner surfaces of the walls are subject to significant destruction and deformation, which are not so easy to hide with ordinary plaster composition during cosmetic repairs.

To eliminate surface irregularities in old houses, experts recommend using sheet drywall. It will effectively hide the existing defects, strengthen the walls and extend their service life.

Corner Alignment

There are two ways to level the inner and outer corners of the walls - wet plaster or drywall.

Alignment of internal corners with a plaster composition is carried out as follows:

1. Cleaning surfaces from dirt and old coatings. If, after stripping, the curvature of the walls is preserved, a cement composition is used for leveling.
2. The surface is treated with a deep penetration primer and dried.
3. Guide beacons are installed for the correct application of plaster.
4. Using the method of spraying, a plaster composition is applied over the beacons, the excess is removed by the rule.
5. The first layer is dried and re-primed.
6. An additional plaster layer is applied, dried and rubbed.
7. If the walls are aligned qualitatively, the inner corner becomes visually even.
8. Additionally, an internal metal corner (contrashultz) with a reinforced mesh on the sides is used, which is mounted on the putty mixture and leveled. After that, the corner is plastered and final polished.

To align the outer corners, special perforated aluminum corners are used. They are resistant to corrosion, have the necessary flexibility and are easy to work with. Installation of aluminum corners on the outer corners of the walls is carried out according to the level in order to guide the elements strictly vertically.

The corners are fixed on self-tapping screws, then covered with a plaster layer and polished. In another case, plaster is applied to the outer corner, a corner is applied on top and slightly embedded in the solution. For additional fixation, self-tapping screws and reinforced mesh are used. Further, the excess solution is distributed with smooth movements throughout the corner to make it invisible.

This technology for leveling the outer corners is effective both when using wet plaster and when installing a drywall structure. When leveling a corner from drywall, fixing a metal corner is performed only on putty.

Smooth wall surfaces are a prerequisite for their high-quality decorative cladding. In addition, the entire complex of work to eliminate irregularities and visual surface defects can be performed independently.