Preparing roses for winter in Siberia. How to cover roses for the winter correctly When to warm roses for the winter

Ecology of consumption. Manor: Even before planting the bushes, you need to think about how to place roses on the site so that in the fall it would be convenient to cover them ...

Often, having removed shelter from roses in spring, amateur flower growers experience a feeling of bitterness - their pets have turned black and moldy. But so much effort was spent, the bushes were so diligently insulated for the winter, but all efforts were in vain. The owners often attribute such a failure only to the weak vitality of roses in central Russia and are convinced that their pets are freezing out.

In fact, the reasons for failure lie elsewhere. Successful overwintering of roses is determined by the obligatory implementation of a number of agrotechnical measures throughout the summer, since preparation for winter begins long before the onset of cold weather.

Even before planting the bushes, you need to think about how to place roses on the site so that it is convenient to cover them in the fall. In particular, it is necessary to leave a free approach to plantings, to provide a place where shoots of climbing roses will be laid and where shelter will be placed.

It is undesirable to plant other crops nearby that can be damaged when working with roses. It is especially important to take this into account for standard and climbing roses. Their shoots must be saved, as they will bloom next year. The place chosen for laying the shoots should not be below the level of the plantings themselves, and roadside grooves are not suitable either - because water will accumulate there in spring, which is detrimental to roses. In extreme cases, the lowlands can be raised by pouring sand.

Roses are photophilous and we must remember that bushes grown in the shade winter worse, because during the summer they do not have enough light for normal photosynthesis. As a result, the processes of accumulation of nutrients in the plant slow down.

Based on the principle of convenience, it is better to place roses (Hybrid Tea, Polyanthus and Floribunda) in rows 30-40 cm apart, taking into account the age of the plant and the growth rate of the selected variety.

Small-flowered Polyanthus, Miniature or Groundcover roses are best planted in a solid border with a distance of 20-30 cm between the bushes, if the site is damp - more densely. Then, during autumn waterlogging, moisture is absorbed faster.

Weak plants overwinter badly. This means that care should be taken to ensure that roses are well formed during the summer and build up a healthy leaf mass. This can be achieved under the condition of timely control of pests and diseases, and roses have a lot of them.

You often hear from hobbyists that they begin to take action when the bushes show signs of disease. If this happens in the second half of summer, then the plant often dies during the winter. Sick roses shed their leaves, which stimulates the awakening of new buds. This phenomenon is extremely undesirable in the second half of summer, since in late August - early September, measures should already be taken to slow down and stop the growth of shoots, otherwise they do not have time to ripen, and as a result, the bushes do not overwinter well.

Disease control must be preventive. In the spring, after removing the shelter and throughout the growing season, it is necessary to spray the roses regularly (1 time in 10 days) with Bordeaux liquid from various fungal diseases.

You can use more effective modern fungicides, their use will significantly reduce the number of treatments. They are sprayed with bushes when the bulk of the shoots and leaves grow. The treatment must be repeated every 10 days.

Good results for the prevention of powdery mildew are given by two to three times a season during the hot time of the day with a 0.3% solution of soda ash.

Pest control should also be regular. During the summer, you should carefully collect and burn fallen leaves, cut shoots, regularly destroy weeds. It is necessary not to be lazy to cover all cuts on the branches with garden pitch, to disinfect the cutting tool in a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).

Only with proper and regular nutrition of roses throughout the growing season can their resistance to diseases and pests be achieved.Therefore, it is so important to pay attention to top dressing. They are carried out approximately 1 time in 2 weeks.

In the spring, when active growth of shoots begins, fertilizer is applied with a predominance of nitrogen. At this time, ammonium nitrate is used in solution (20 g per 10 l of water) or embedded in the soil in dry form (40 g per 1 m2).

For summer dressings, it is better to use fermented manure (1:10) - one bucket of infusion for 4 plants. Foliar top dressing with microelements is useful. In August, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers begin to be applied (30 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of water). They contribute to the timely ripening of shoots. Physiologically active substances (sodium humate, albumin, epin), which stimulate growth, can only be used in the first half of summer.

From mid-August, all agrotechnical measures should be aimed at slowing down and stopping the growing season. To do this, reduce or completely stop, depending on the weather, watering.

Sometimes, in too rainy autumn, a plastic film is stretched over the bushes in order to somehow reduce the flow of moisture.

You can make furrows to drain water from the rose garden. If individual shoots continue to develop intensively, their ends must be pinched off, which will cause growth inhibition and accelerate ripening. Otherwise, such shoots die during the winter.

Too much flowering in late autumn can also lead to weakening of plants due to the expenditure of large amounts of nutrients. To stop this process, the shoot at the base of the bud is bent. As a result, inhibition of apical growth occurs, and the lateral buds do not wake up.

Roses do not have a pronounced dormant period, so even a temporary increase in temperature to 0 ° C in winter stimulates growth. That is why it is very important to choose the optimal time for sheltering the bushes.

If you start too early, you will have to remove the leaves, which will lead to the cessation of photosynthesis. Delay can cause damage to shoots from early frosts.

When the temperature drops to minus 3 °, the water in the stems freezes and breaks the conductive vessels. Freeze holes are formed, into which pathogens, for example, fungal spores, fall. Subsequently, such shoots have to be cut into a ring.

It is very difficult to treat frost holes, and the loss of a shoot weakens the bush.

Sometimes the first frosts happen early, as early as September, and then the weather stays warm for a long time. If after such frosts the roses thaw slowly, then the cells of the conductive vessels return to their normal state.

To slow down thawing, bushes can be covered with paper, cloth, sprinkled with water.

It is impossible to determine in advance when and what strength the early cooling will be. To insure against the first frosts in the autumn, I recommend using a phased shelter of roses.

To do this, you first need to prepare them: gently sleep the leaves from the bottom of the bush, very carefully moisten it and the ground around it from a watering can with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate (the drug burns the leaves, so they are removed). Then the bases of the shoots are sprinkled with sand (2 shovels per bush).

At a temperature slightly above 0 °, roses stop growing, nutrients are no longer consumed, but begin to be deposited in the bark, core, buds and roots. As a result, natural hardening occurs, which allows roses to survive in the winter. The accumulated nutrients will be of great importance during the spring awakening of plants. These processes take place only in the light, which is why too early shelter is still undesirable.

Further hardening of roses occurs in late autumn, when the temperature is set within minus 2-8 °. At this time, the shoots lose a significant amount of water. Starch begins to turn into sugars, which prevents the cells of roses from freezing. The second phase does not require light, and the absence of leaves does not affect the process.

It is at this moment that you need to carry out the final stage of shelter. It usually falls in the first decade of November. All remaining leaves are removed, the roses are cut to a height of 40-45 cm, the upper part of the shoots is sprayed with a 2% nitrofen solution and the bushes are covered with insulating material: sawdust (3 buckets per bush), earth, dry leaf or peat.

When using land as a shelter, it is harvested and dried in advance.

Softwood sawdust is preferred.

Peat is mixed with a small amount of sand so that it does not cake and let air through.

Sawdust and peat are very moisture-absorbing material, they have the ability to freeze quickly and thaw slowly. Considering that winters in central Russia are unstable and often alternate with thaws, this property of peat and sawdust makes it possible to maintain a constant temperature under cover.

To scare away mice, you can put spruce branches on the insulating material or use naphthalene tablets, lumps of sawdust soaked in strong-smelling substances (kerosene, creolin).

In winter, you need to make sure that the wind does not blow away the snow. To detain him, you can install shields, put branches on top.

In the conditions of central Russia, such a phased shelter of roses can be considered the best option.

This method has one drawback - the bushes must be cut, since it is impossible to completely cover them. Of course, we must strive to preserve the shoots as much as possible, then in the new season the roses will bloom well. To do this, if possible, they are bent.

There are other hideouts as well. Reliable protection is considered air-dry. It is a frame 50-60 cm high, which is made in the form of a low greenhouse from a metal rod, bent pipes, etc., interconnected by wire.

The frame is installed over the roses in early October, until the ground is frozen. The bushes are freed from the lower leaves, treated with a 3% solution of iron sulfate and spud with sand. Before the onset of frost, they are tied up. At the same time, only synthetic twine is used, which does not absorb moisture and does not grow moldy. Associated shoots begin to gradually bend down to the ground.

This work is carried out until frost, until the branches have lost their flexibility, otherwise they can be broken or the bark will crack on them. Too thick stiff shoots are cut to such a height that there is a space of 10-25 cm between them and the roof of the shelter.

With the onset of the first frost, the remaining leaves are cut off. This operation must be performed without fail, otherwise the roses with leaves in the shelter will continue to "breathe", creating increased humidity and provoking the formation of mold. Roofing material is laid on the frame, leaving the ends open until permanent frosts (minus 8 °). Then they are closed. A film is stretched over the roofing material to completely prevent moisture from getting inside, its edges are well strengthened. The whole structure must be reliable so that it can withstand a thick snow cover.

In a damp area where groundwater is close, air-dry shelter cannot be used. Condensation will accumulate under it and roses in a humid environment will begin to rot.

Climbing roses before the onset of the first frost are removed from the supports, the leaves are removed, treated with iron vitriol, tied and laid on a piece of roofing material. Then the shoots are covered with sand, and when persistent frosts set in, they are covered with another piece of roofing material, which is fixed with the help of improvised means.

Materials that quickly rot and absorb moisture, such as hay, straw, moss, should not be used for shelter.

Of the other groups, Climbing and Polyanthic are more winter-hardy.

Grafted roses endure winter better than own-rooted ones. published

rose roots, at the end of September, it is necessary to insulate by pouring a layer of earth of 30 centimeters on them. From above, the roots of roses need to be covered:

fallen leaves;
snow.

Fallen leaves will serve as protection and additional nutrients. And the snow keeps the body very well. This will protect the plant from freezing the roots and stems themselves.

If the frost is not great, up to - 5 ° C, it is not necessary to cover the roots of roses. Such a frost is not terrible, but even useful. It will serve as a kind of hardening for the plant. And it will be more resistant to frost.

When to insulate rose bushes for the winter. A few weeks later, towards the end of October, it is already necessary to clear the bush of all young shoots, leaves, buds. Autumn pruning of roses and shelter for the winter are necessary procedures when growing roses in the Russian climate.

Young shoots of roses must be cut off. Otherwise, in the spring they can start to rot and spoil the whole plant. When the bush is cleared of everything superfluous, it would be nice to treat it with special means from pests and fungus.

5 easy steps to cover roses for the winter.

Step 1. Pruning roses for the winter. Prune roses long before they need to be covered. The best time to prune roses for the winter is the end of September - October, when persistent frosts set in.

Step 2. Hilling and warming the roots for the winter. Cover the roots of roses hedged with soil to a height of 10 cm with a layer of weathered peat, dry sand, shavings or sawdust.

Step 3. Making the frame. We create a reliable, air-dry shelter in which roses will feel great in winter. To do this, you need to make a low frame up to 0.5 meters from metal arcs, which are used for country greenhouses. Install the frame over the rose bushes. If any stems of roses go beyond the frame, then they need to be cut.

Step 4. Insulation. Stretch the insulating material over the frame. There are several options for what material to cover roses for the winter:

Step 5 Fasten the edges of the covering material so that they are not ruffled by the wind, do not recline or blow into the shelter of roses.

Country cheat sheet No. 8: “When to cover roses for the winter in autumn?”

The October issues of magazines for gardeners and gardeners are literally full of notes on the topic preparing plants for winter : pruning flowers and raspberries, harvesting perennials for storage, whitewashing trees, winter crops ... autumn the summer resident has no less worries than in the summer. And if they grow on the site roses- it's time to think about shelter for the winter for them. All important information about when is the best time to cover roses for the winter , we have combined in one article. It turned out to be a very informative country cheat sheet, which, we hope, will be useful to both us and you 😉

Preparing roses for winter
It's time to cover the roses! Dates for the Middle Strip (including the Moscow region), the Urals and Siberia.
Favorable dates according to the lunar calendar for October and November 2018.
Fatal errors in the shelter of roses.
Features of the shelter of standard roses.
How to cover roses if only stumps were left during pruning.

Preparing roses for winter

top dressing

From mid-August, it is necessary to finish feeding roses with nitrogen fertilizers, reduce or completely stop watering (depending on the weather). Starting from August, only phosphorus-potassium supplements are used in the rose garden. In autumn, on the eve of wintering, roses need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. They help to restrain growth, contribute to the maturation of lignification of wood (lignification of shoots) and increase cold resistance. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus can be applied from the end of August. Suitable superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash, as well as special complex "autumn" top dressing. If the autumn turned out to be long and warm, it is not too late to do the final feeding in the 2nd decade of October (if you didn’t have time in September). In addition, in the second mid-September, it is necessary to stop digging and loosening the soil between the bushes, their formation, so as not to cause the development of shoots from dormant buds.

The scheme of strengthening feeding of roses in preparation for winter:

The first top dressing is made in mid-August. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 25 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate, 2.5 g of boric acid. The solution is applied under the root at the rate of 2 liters per 1 square meter.
The second feeding is done in September. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 15 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. Or you can use the complex "Autumn" mineral fertilizer.

* For foliar top dressing, the dosage is reduced by 3 times.

Pruning shoots

More recently, flower growers were of the opinion that in autumn rose bushes should certainly be cut, leaving stumps of about 30 cm, with 5-7 buds on the shoot. Now another technique is common: in the fall, the branches are bent to the ground, securely fixing them, and then covered for the winter. Pruning is carried out in a sparing mode, as needed: dry, diseased and very old, inflexible branches that prevent shelter, as well as unripe shoots of wen are cut out. It is believed that autumn pruning robs the plant of strength, requires huge expenses for their restoration. Bushes uncut in autumn endure winter better, and in spring they begin to grow faster and bloom earlier.

In autumn, it is advisable to cut branches if they interfere with shelter and can break when trying to bend them down. Pruning is done only to the height of the shelter, adjusted for the variety (there is a difference in pruning climbing, hybrid tea roses, etc.).

It is better to prune roses in the middle - end of October., until the frosts descended, but the main heat is already behind. You should not rush with pruning, otherwise the buds will wake up, and the shoots will start growing again. It is useful to treat cuts on thick branches with garden pitch, and thin ones with brilliant green.

The main pruning is carried out in the spring, according to the results of wintering, after the removal of shelters,

Leaf pruning

Until late autumn, when it is time to prepare shelters, some varieties of roses are green and even bloom. If you leave everything as it is, during the winter, most likely, they will rot (and this will adversely affect the health of the entire plant).

Late October - early November(already after the first frost) the leaves must be removed, leaving no petioles. At the same time, the remaining flowers, ovaries and unripe shoots are cut off. Pruning is conveniently done with a small pruner or scissors. You should start from the bottom of the branches, gradually moving towards the tops.

If there is a lot of foliage and its removal becomes too time-consuming, you can get by with a little:

Before shelter, treat the bushes with any copper-containing fungicide, following the recommendations on the package.
Free at least the base of the branches from the leaves so that the bush is well ventilated, and then spray with any antifungal drug (with copper in the composition) or a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Treatment before shelter

After gentle pruning and removal of leaves, bushes are usually treated with fungicide solutions to prevent the spread of rot. In addition to the above funds (copper content preparations, iron sulfate), it is recommended to use a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Should roses be planted for the winter?

The question is again controversial, here rose growers have two opinions:

Hilling rose bushes will protect them in frosty, snowless winters. In this case, the hill will be useful.
The base of the hilled bushes rots, so the hill will only do harm.

Conclusion: everyone chooses for himself whether to spud or not.

It is definitely worth abandoning hilling if the site itself is damp or the autumn turned out to be rainy, and the soil turned out to be oversaturated with moisture. In this case, hilling even with a pre-prepared dry soil mixture will be superfluous. It is advisable to carry out an okuchka if the autumn turned out to be dry, slightly frosty. A suitable mixture for hilling roses for the winter: dry and loose ripened compost with sand and peat. Do not use clean peat and sand - they gain moisture, and sawdust - rot.

Important! Standard roses need hilling in a mandatory order (about the features of their shelter - later in the text).

Shelter of roses for the winter: Optimal timing

After preliminary preparation, with the onset of favorable weather, the roses are ready for shelter for the winter! Question: when does this readiness come? So, the sources we analyzed say:

- cover roses you can start in the first decade of October (newspaper "AiF. In the country" ). While the weather is still warm enough, the shoots remain plastic, bend more easily (on frosty days, the shoots become brittle and brittle). The branches are bent and fixed in a horizontal position with metal pegs. Thick branches can be bent down gradually, in several steps. At the same time, shelter frames are being installed. Finally, roses cover in late October - early November, after the onset of persistent cold weather (and even light frosts), but before snowfall. At the final stage, the installed frames are covered with spunbond. Important! It is impossible to lay roses directly on the ground: there should be a gap between the surface of the soil and the shoots for ventilation, and one and a half liter plastic bottles or thick foam are placed as a “gasket”.

- Do not rush to cover ( magazine "Flower"). Roses should be thoroughly insulated on frozen ground, and it is better to prepare for this in advance - to start bend branches before frost (from mid-September). Roses are quite cold-resistant and easily endure light autumn frosts without shelter. Let the rains pass and sub-zero temperatures begin to set - then you can finally cover the roses with non-woven materials.

— Warm shelters for roses, it must be installed after the autumn frosts grab the ground or shortly before this moment - no earlier than November ("Homestead newspaper" ). Hasty shelter (at temperatures from zero and above) is fraught with the fact that the plants will begin to rot, the humidity rises, which creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal infections.

These terms can be applied both for the Middle Strip (including the Moscow region), and for the Urals and Siberia, since it is more worth relying on weather conditions, weather forecasts, and temperature indicators.

Favorable days according to the lunar calendar-2018

In October In 2018, astrologers recommend pruning and sheltering roses:

14th, 19th, 22nd, 27th, 28th and 31st.

According to the calendar from the magazine "Plant farming".

Unfavorable days for pruning in October:

October 9, 17, 18, 19, 24 (days of New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

In November 2018 favorable days for sheltering roses for the winter:

1, 3, 17, 18, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 November.

Unfavorable days for pruning in November:

November 7, 14, 15, 23 (days of New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

According to the calendar from the magazine "My Favorite Dacha".

7 mistakes in preparing roses for winter

1. Early cover. If you thoroughly cover the roses at temperatures above zero, there is a great danger that the bushes will soak and become easy prey for fungal infections. In early autumn - from mid-September - until the branches are frozen and bend well, you can begin to bend them to the ground. And it is better to start warming on frozen soil, not earlier than the end of October.

2. Bend branches in frosty weather can be dangerous. Frosts make the shoots brittle and brittle. The bark can crack, as a result, wounds form, which will become the gateway for all sorts of infections. It is recommended to start bending the branches in mid-September, and it is better to do it gradually, fixing the horizontal slope with metal pegs. It is convenient to use barbecue skewers for this - they "like clockwork" enter the ground, and it is easy to tie twine to the tip.

3. Early pruning of unripened shoots, while it is still warm, stimulates the active formation of new ones. It turns out monkey work. It is advised to prune unripened shoots (as well as leaves and remaining ovaries) only after the first frost (usually in the 3rd decade of October). In general, flower growers today agree that in the fall it is not necessary to carry out fork pruning; it is enough to remove old and diseased branches, and also selectively shorten them if they are difficult to cover.

4. A garter of roses with ropes made of natural materials is dangerous because during the winter it accumulates moisture and rots. Polypropylene twine is more suitable for this.

5. Sending roses under cover, you can not leave leaves on them. They will rot, the bushes will not be ventilated - all this opens the way for infections. In the second half of October, the leaves are cut with secateurs or, gently running hands in gardening gloves along the trunk, shake off the foliage. Attention! Rose leaves cannot be used in a shelter, they must certainly be removed from under the bush.

6. It is not worth lowering branches of roses on bare ground or film. It is desirable that it be dry under the branches. By bending the shoots in front of the shelter, you can build a "platform" under them from plastic bottles or polystyrene.

7. Ruberoid or polyethylene film is not very good as a covering material. Metal tanks and buckets are also better not to use. It is best to cover roses for the winter with dense lutrasil or spunbond, throwing them over a frame made of metal rods or chain-link mesh. It turns out a cozy mini-greenhouse.

How to cover roses if you had to cut them short in the fall

In the event that it was necessary to carry out a short pruning in the fall (in the old fashioned way), leaving stumps 30-40 cm high, it is advised to do this:

After pruning (usually after the first frost, in the first decade of October), treat the bushes with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
Spud plantings with a dry soil mixture to a height of 20-25 cm, covering the horse's neck.
Leave the roses to harden until the beginning of November.
In the first decade of November, in dry weather, you can start warming. You do not need to bend anything, because the roses are cut short.

Ways to cover cut roses:

- The easiest way to cover roses cut in autumn is with spruce branches with a layer of at least 10-15 cm.

- The air-dry method of shelter is more often used (it is the most reliable): Build a frame over the bushes and cover it with hydro-thermal insulation material.

- Separate bushes can be insulated in this way: tie the branches of the bush together, surround it with a chain-link mesh in the form of a fence (diameter 30-50 cm). Fill the space between the bush and the mesh with soil mixture. Wrap the structure on top with spunbond in 2 layers. Straw, manure, hay moss are not suitable as insulation materials, as they absorb moisture and can provoke decay.

Features of the shelter of a standard rose

The main difficulty is to correctly determine the side of the slope, because the trunk at the grafting site is easy to break. An interesting comparison is given in an article on the shelter of standard roses in the Dacha newspaper:

You need to imagine that the fingers in a clenched fist are a bump at the site of vaccination, and the trunk is a thumb. The trunk, like a thumb, should easily lie on the bump. The scheme clearly conveys this essence:

Procedure

A small hole is dug around the trunk, very carefully so as not to hurt the root system.
The trunk is bent gradually, allowing it to get used to the new position. They bent - waited a couple of days, and so on, until the plant takes a horizontal position.
The hole is dug in, the base is covered with a dry soil mixture.
It is useful to put something hard under the barrel (a log or a plastic bottle) as a support for the barrel so that it does not break under the weight of snow.
The horizontal position is fixed with polypropylene twine, tying it to a metal peg.
Under the crown of a standard rose and on it, you can put spruce branches or dry oak leaves.
It would be useful to spray the plants with a solution of iron sulfate and put poison inside the shelter for mice who like to visit pink shelters in winter and feast on plantings.
In conclusion, they arrange an air-dry shelter for the entire plant as a whole, insulating the stem as well. A dense lutrasil or spunbond is thrown on top. It is better to refuse shelter with a film or roofing material.
If there is little snow in winter, it must be additionally thrown. The main insulation for roses is snow.

We hope that we really managed to collect the maximum information on the topic in this country cheat sheet, and it turned out to be useful for you. Write reviews, share your experience in the comments, we will be glad! 😉

Many home fans are deeply convinced that with the onset of cold weather, every bush needs insulation, and in the spring they complain about poor material and dead plants.

What is the reason for the dysfunctional, how and why they are better - you will learn about all this further from the article.

And also for you we have prepared a selection of tips on choosing a covering agent and hybrid protection technique.

Rose and winter hardiness

Did you know? The oldest, and therefore winter-hardy, is considered a rose bush growing in the German town of Hildesheim, near Hanover. Local old-timers say that the settlement grew around this plant. The foreshadowing of this was the relics of the Virgin Mary left during the hunt by the son of Charlemagne, Louis I, on the branches of a blooming rose. All attempts to remove them failed. Therefore, it was decided to build a temple on that place, which has survived to this day. But the whips of the flower have already caught up with the roof of the cathedral. Until now, they are rampant with lush buds and are a reminder of the city.

The preparation of the rosary should be done at the end of summer. But for starters, experts advise to determine the winter-hardy characteristics of growing bushes. After all, each of them requires special conditions for wintering.

Remember that young seedlings that have not overwintered yet, regardless of their genetic predispositions, need outside help. It consists in special pruning, warming of the near-stem circle and branches. Mature plants that have increased resistance to low temperatures do not need these procedures at all. They will only hurt.

Professionals call park roses the most winter-hardy, as well as those with the common name "Austinki". They are not afraid of cold weather and tolerate harsh weather conditions well. Therefore, they are not needed at all.

But the most sensitive to temperature changes are considered and. If there are such specimens in your garden, then without special preparation they will not survive until spring.

Compared to the previous group, low-growing varieties and were more resistant. They need to be insulated, but it is important not to overdo it with protective structures. Otherwise, the plant will die not from the cold, but from the heat.

If you find it difficult to identify a specific group on your own, do not despair. In such situations, experienced flower growers are advised to take care of or around the stem of the plant and provide a fabric shelter for the aerial part of the roses for the winter.

Such activities will protect the culture from excess moisture and contribute to the formation of a suitable microclimate. The main thing is to guess with the period when the need for insulation arises. After all, too early constructions will harm to the same extent as belated ones.

Choosing covering material

The most common mistake many beginner flower growers make is to wrap the flower stems too tightly in a covering material. Although on the forums, newcomers, not even suspecting their mistake, often complain about the quality of the purchased insulation.

But experts say that for a successful wintering of these beautiful flowers, they do not need additional costs at all. Sheltering roses for the winter can be done with improvised means. Let's analyze in more detail which of the materials is better to prefer.

Did you know?In England, the tradition is still preserved to give 2 yellow roses as a sign of love, and white buds are symbols of eternal love. That is why brides all over the world prefer to see these flowers in their wedding bouquets.

Purchased

From the store assortment for preparing plants for the winter is suitable. It is the most common and affordable insulation. Experts advise this material for more sensitive varieties, since, when loosely wrapped, it retains the inner layer of air and does not interfere with oxygen exchange processes.
A similar effect can be achieved from geotextiles,. The only drawback of these substances is the financial cost of their acquisition.

improvised means

When preparing for the winter, many rose growers, in order to save money, resort to improvised covering material for plants. In this case, spruce branches, fallen leaves, sand, rags, worn burlap are used.

And for hybrids that are very afraid of the cold, they often use old blankets, plywood and wooden houses, foam plastic. The main task of the hostesses is to reliably protect the root system and stems from adverse weather conditions. For resistant varieties, it is enough to bend the branches and insulate them with scraps. But sissies will need a denser “fur coat”.

Shelter types

Experts identify several technologies for warming plants to cold weather, but in all cases they focus on the need to leave an air cushion between the stems and the insulation. Consider the main features of each type.

Air dry

Experts advise this method for non-hardy and Floribunda. Its advantage is a stable temperature and excellent ventilation. Under the material, the thermometer never drops below 4 degrees below zero. In addition, the chances of root decay are low. Let's look at how to cover with the air-dry method.

In practice, everything turns out to be very simple: you need to prepare a frame of metal rods and some kind of insulation. Its role can be played by glassine, and even ordinary cardboard. To prevent the wind from opening your structure, it is advisable to securely fix the material with twine. And the house will save from moisture, which you need to cover it from above. Be sure to sprinkle the lower edges of the shelter with earth.

Did you know? The famous Egyptian queen Cleopatra went down in history not only as an indescribable beauty, but also as a zealous fan. For all the solemn events that took place with her participation, banquet halls were prepared, where the floors were thickly covered with the petals of these flowers. In special cases, the flooring reached half a meter in height. Moreover, the queen liked to enjoy the buds swaying on the waves during galley rides.

Shield

There is nothing better for . Compared to other groups of flowers, they are the last to shed their leaves and require special attention before the onset of cold weather. During this period, it is important to cut off the remaining cuttings with leaf plates, as well as young shoots, remove the whips from the supports and tie them. Then, on a ball of spruce branches spread near the bush, you need to put the resulting bundle and securely pin it to the ground with a bent rod.

When the plant is fixed in a lying position, it is covered on top with wooden shields on both sides to form a triangle. The dimensions of the structure must correspond to the length of the branches and be at least 85 cm wide.
The lower edges of this house must be fixed with wooden pegs, otherwise it will move apart over time. From above, the structure is covered, including from the end sides. Before the onset of frost, its edges must be raised, which will provide good ventilation and will not allow the roots to rot. And before the first frosts, do not forget to lower the polyethylene and sprinkle it with soil from below.

Important! Pink lashes in preparation for wintering should be tilted in the direction of their growth. In some cases, it is recommended to supply oval non-metallic supports at the base of the shoots, which will allow the branches to tilt smoothly.

This technology is very convenient for warming climbing varieties arranged in rows. But in the case of warm winters, it is important to control the temperature and air flow inside the house.

Some flower growers talk about the impracticality of the shield type of plant insulation, explaining their position by the lack of space in a small area. For such situations, experts advise fixing connected pink branches with a column to wooden supports stuck into the soil.
Some owners make special pyramidal frames from metal rods, but in such cases it is better to avoid direct contact with the lashes of the bush. From above, the structure is wrapped with fiberglass, sponge, or ordinary burlap, fixing the canvas with bundles. And then covered with plastic wrap. At the same time, ventilation ducts should be left, otherwise the flower will die from overheating.

Having spent a lot of time and effort on breeding roses and carefully caring for them, you were satisfied with the results - all summer rose bushes in the flower garden delighted your eyes with beautiful flowers. In order to see their beauty again next season, you have to properly prepare the flowers for wintering.

Sheltering roses for the winter can be called the most important step in caring for these demanding plants. It’s worth thinking about how your pets will spend the winter in the spring, during the planting of roses. It is better to immediately try to distribute the plants in such a way that they are compactly located on the site, but at the same time they are not crowded, and it is convenient for you to cover them.

Sheltering roses for the winter can be called the most important step in caring for these demanding plants.

How the wintering goes, largely depends on how good care was provided to the roses throughout the season. Depleted bushes that have not received enough water and top dressing are just as at risk as flowers that are generously flooded with water and overfed with nitrogen. To help roses survive the winter, you can reduce watering at the end of summer and introduce potash and phosphorus top dressings.

Video about sheltering roses for the winter

Preparing roses for warming for the winter with spruce branches

When the foliage begins to fall off, you can begin to trim the foliage and fragile shoots that still will not survive the winter. It is not worth warming roses before the onset of permanent frosts, otherwise they will overheat in warm weather. Using a sharp pruner, remove all leaves, buds, flowers, and old dry stems from rose bushes. After pruning, the height of the bushes should be no higher than 50 cm.

When the foliage begins to fall, you can start trimming the foliage and fragile shoots that still will not survive the winter.

Gently loosen the soil with a small cloth around the rose bushes to a depth of 5 cm, removing all small weeds and trying not to hurt the root system. Treat the plants with iron or copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid to protect against fungal diseases, and sprinkle ashes on the ground around the bush from pests.

After the night temperature is set at -5 degrees, you need to spud roses for the winter with peat or loose earth up to 1/3 of the height of the plant (young bushes - up to half). The part that was sprinkled will remain even in the most severe frosts. Pay special attention to the looseness of the earth or peat: all lumps should be broken up to ensure good air permeability to the flowers.

Cover the rolled roses on top with spruce branches (spruce or pine). It is better not to use dry grass, leaves or sawdust, because when wet they will begin to overheat, and roses along with them. Shelter for roses with spruce branches should be done only in dry weather.

Sheltering roses with plastic wrap

Good results are obtained by using mini-greenhouses made of shackles covered with plastic wrap.

Shelter with spruce branches is perfect for the northwestern territories, because it provides optimal ventilation for plants, and when frost changes with thaws, roses do not overheat. But there is an equally common way to cover roses for the winter. Good results are obtained by using mini-greenhouses made of arches covered with plastic wrap.

Video about the rules for sheltering roses for the winter

Polyethylene cover technology roses for the winter is simple:

prepared and hilled bushes are bent to the ground, tied up in the form of small arches;
along the beds with roses, install the arches;
before cold autumn rains, fasten a plastic film on the temples, leaving the ends open for ventilation;
dig small grooves around the perimeter of the greenhouse so that water from the polyethylene does not flow inside;
when the ground freezes, remove the polyethylene, and lay the roofing material on the arms, closing the ends;
cover the roofing material with a film.

This design will protect rose bushes from severe frosts, while condensate will not accumulate inside the greenhouse, since the plastic film is brought up. However, the edges of the roofing material should be slightly raised above the ground so that fresh air enters the roses.

In the spring, the shelter for roses will need to be dismantled gradually, first by removing the ends, and after some time, remove the roofing material and polyethylene from the arms.