How to make a tile seam. How to make do-it-yourself tile grouting

The final step in decorating a bathroom with tiles is always grouting. After carrying out this operation, the tiled masonry acquires completeness and accuracy.

Grouting tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is an affordable job for anyone, even an inexperienced master. One has only to start and "fill" his hand - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing work depends on the material chosen. So, for those who do not have experience in work, it is better to choose a grout that dries long enough. Using a fast-curing material can ruin the whole look of even a well-placed tile.

Criteria for a quality grout

The joint filler is designed to protect the adhesive composition on which the tiles are laid, the surfaces of walls and floors from the penetration of moisture, dirt, mold, as well as for the final aesthetic design of the coating. Therefore, you can’t do without grouting - finishing material with open seams will not linger on walls and floors for a long time, and on the surfaces under it a favorable environment will be created for the development of mold and fungus, which will sooner or later hit the base.

To make it easy to work with the material, and the seams between the tiles turned out to be neat and reliable, any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry formulations or sold already in finished form must have the following qualities:

• The uniformity of the composition will greatly facilitate the work - in this case it will completely fill all the seams. It is unacceptable that the mixture has hard inclusions that tend to create “plugs” in the gaps between the tiles that will prevent the grout from penetrating to the entire depth of the seam, leaving air voids.
• The elasticity of the solution will also contribute to high-quality filling of the joints, as it will be easily distributed over the recesses and will allow you to work quickly.
• Strength after curing. The grout should not crumble, and when cleaning it should not be washed out.
• Hydrophobicity of the material after curing. The joint filler should repel moisture, not absorb it.
• Resistant to household chemical detergents, since any tiled flooring requires periodic cleaning.
• Aesthetic appearance. The seams between the tiles should be smooth and neat, and the shade of the grout should harmonize as much as possible with

Types of grouts according to the material of manufacture

Today, one- and two-component grouts can be found on sale, produced in the form of dry mixes, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are made on various basic bases:

• Cement.
• Polymer-cement.
• Cement-sand.
• Polyurethane.
• Epoxy and furan, produced on the basis of resins.
• Silicone.

In addition, there are grouts that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium "liquid glass" and other materials.

However, self-production of the material may not be of very high quality, and the aggregate will simply crumble out of the seams under the influence of external factors - humidity and temperature fluctuations. Grouts produced in the factory in compliance with all technologies and with the use of special antiseptic additives are undoubtedly more reliable than those that will be made at home.

Therefore, it is better to purchase ready-made materials, especially since they are quite affordable. And making grout with your own hands is recommended only in extreme cases.

Cement based joint fillers

Cement-based grouts remain the most popular and widely used. They are produced by most well-known companies for the manufacture of building mixtures.

Cement-based grouts can be divided into two types - made with or without sand.

The mixture, which has sand in its composition, is used to seal wide seams, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer fine-grained grouts made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use located on the packaging, the manufacturer always indicates for what width of seams a particular composition is intended.

For the manufacture of mixtures, Portland cement is used, which has a fine grinding, due to which, when kneading, the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, in order to achieve the elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.

The mixture can be made using water at room temperature, or on a latex basis. The latter will have the name of polymer-cement grout.

A properly mixed mixture will provide a smooth and even high-quality seam, which will not only reliably close the gaps from moisture, but also give accuracy to the entire masonry.

Cement-based mixes can be packed in paper bags or plastic pails.

Cement grouts can have a different color. Some manufacturers make formulations already in color, while others have coloring pigments included in the kit and are added only during manufacture.

If desired, metallic "gold" or "silver" powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.

Silicone grouts

Silicone joint filler is a one-component composition, packed in special plastic cartridges (tubes) and applied to the joints with a construction gun. This type of grout consists of silicone with an acid hardener. The material is, in fact, a sealant. It completely closes the seams, is moisture resistant and elastic, has antiseptic qualities.

Silicone sealant is an excellent joint filler for particularly difficult areas

Such a joint filler is most often used in combination with other grout compositions. Basically, they close gaps only in problem areas, for example, at the junctions of planes or in the area where the bathtub adjoins the tile, since it has a fairly high price and requires a lot of consumption. However, if possible, it can be applied to all seams, and having any width. Its disadvantage can only be called the fact that silicone sealant is produced in a poor variety of shades - mostly white or transparent compounds prevail.

It is easy to fill the seams with silicone sealant, the main thing is to make the right cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it must match the width of the seam, and evenly press the handle of the construction gun. Then the aggregate will flow into the seams in an even strip.

Resin grouts

• Epoxy grout

Epoxy grouts consist of two components - an epoxy compound and a hardener. The mass of the solution is mixed immediately before application.

This type of grout is characterized by high strength and resistance to external mechanical influences, as well as to high humidity and significant temperature changes.

Epoxy grout has a very long service life. Such a grout does not lose its original appearance for 45–50 years.

After connecting the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency, and it is quite difficult to work with it. Therefore, if there is no experience in filling the seams, but it is decided to use this particular type of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional master.

Epoxy grout is recommended to be used in cases where wide, over 6 mm seams are provided between the tiles. It fills the cavities well and, when cured, acquires a high density, close to the density of the tile itself.

In order for the wall and floor cladding, where epoxy filler was used, to have an aesthetic appearance, you need to choose high-quality ceramic tiles with perfectly even edges and corners, otherwise the grout will not hide, but, on the contrary, will emphasize the flaws of the finishing material.

There is a variant of epoxy filler, which includes in its composition of Portland cement, which plays the role of a reinforcer. Working with such a material is identical to mixing and applying cement grout, but as it cures, it acquires the characteristics of a traditional epoxy aggregate.

One of the types of metal powder can be added to the epoxy mixture, traditionally or using Portland cement, if desired. In this case, the tile frame will turn out to be very original, and it will especially look advantageous if the seams are wide, about 6 ÷ 8 mm.

The price of this type of grout is quite high, so it is rarely used at home. Basically, it goes to work when facing surfaces in industrial workshops and laboratory facilities, where its strength, durability, and resistance to aggressive environments are especially needed.

• Furan resin filler

This type of grout is made on the basis of furanol with the addition of fupfilovogo alcohol. The resulting material, when hardened, acquires the highest qualities of resistance to any influences, whether chemical detergents, acids, ultraviolet rays, moisture and temperature. The composition of this material, as well as in the epoxy mixture, does not include water, so it completely lacks the ability to absorb it.

When choosing this filler, you need to know that it is quite difficult to work with it, since a special approach to the preparation of joint surfaces is required.

The disadvantages of this material include its high price and lack of color diversity, since it has only one color - black.

This grout is rarely used to improve tile laying at home, although it should be noted that black is combined with any of the shades of the color scheme. If the tile is of high quality and has no flaws along the edges, then framing it in black will give the finish rigor and clarity.

• Polyurethane grouts

The most convenient type of joint filler to use is a ready-made elastic composition made on the basis of polyurethane resins and water dispersion, without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, as it is sold in the form of a ready-made homogeneous paste.

It is suitable for grouting 1-6 mm wide joints between ceramic tiles and glass mosaics.

The composition of the grout is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After the final hardening and polymerization, it is well cleaned of dirt and has a high water-repellent characteristics.

This type of joint filler has a rich range of pastel shades, which allows it to be matched to any tile.

Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for grouting tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other rooms, including those with heated floors.

Prices for grout for tile joints

Grout for tile joints

Self-preparation of grout for joints

Just in case, it would be nice to know a few recipes for making grout at home, as there are different situations from which you urgently need to find a way out. Knowing the composition and manufacturing technology, it is not difficult at all.

• Cement-sand mixture

The most accessible and simple recipe for making aggregate is the use of cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. The two ingredients are mixed in a dry form, and then water is added to them in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

For the preparation of cement-sand grout, you can use both gray and white cement, and to give the composition a certain shade, coloring pigments are added to it - they can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.

In addition, metal powder can be added to the solution, which will make it indistinguishable from that bought at a hardware store.

To enhance the elasticity of the mixture, latex additives are sometimes added to it. Thus, a classic grout will be obtained, which will be identical to that produced in the factory.

• Gypsum grout

Grout mastic can also be prepared from gypsum, using slaked lime as a plasticizer additive. This ingredient is necessary, because without it, the hardened gypsum will be very fragile.

In addition, lime will prolong the setting time of gypsum grout. Everyone knows that gypsum quickly sets and hardens, so you should not make a large amount of material - it is best to do this in small portions. After using up each portion of the grout, before preparing the next one, the container and spatula should be cleaned well each time, as small and large hardened gypsum particles will interfere with work.

Gypsum is a fragile material and not plastic enough, therefore, under mechanical action, it can crumble. In addition, it is able to absorb moisture, so it is better not to use such a grout in the bathroom.

• alabaster grout

Today, alabaster is not as popular as it used to be, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a type of gypsum, or more precisely, it is burnt his option.

It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and depressions in plaster, so before its supply could be found in every home. Alabaster faded into the background after appearing in specialized stores of various building mixtures, which have a narrow purpose and do an excellent job with a variety of problems.

If necessary, it is quite possible to prepare mastic for sealing seams from this material. The process of its preparation is simple and consists in adding water to dry alabaster in small portions. Do not knead a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.

Alabaster grout is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3-5 years. But temporarily it can be used if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no way to purchase ready-made material.

• clay grout

No need to write off such material as clay. No wonder it has always been used for waterproofing work, as it has good hydrophobic qualities. The preparation of joint filler from this material will create a little more trouble than when mixing it from cement and sand or from gypsum. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it may contain various hard inclusions from which it must be freed. Then, it is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.

Lime is added to the finished, well-mixed clay mass to enhance plasticity and cement to make the grout harden faster. Lime and cement are poured quite a bit. The proportions of the solution are approximately 10:1:1 - the main role in it is still given to clay.

For manufacturing, you can use material of any color, if desired, color and metallic powder are added to it.

Clay will reliably protect the seams from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature changes, and if necessary, it will not be difficult to clean the seams from it in order to replace it with a more professional grout.

How much grouting material is required?

So, for high-quality finishes, it is best to use special compositions of industrial production. But how many do you need to buy?

Usually, on the packaging of the grout, the manufacturer indicates the average consumption of material per square meter of tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the size of the tile and the specific thickness of the seams.

Probably, everyone understands that the smaller the tile in size, the more it fits per unit area and, therefore, the longer the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grout for tiles of various types can vary significantly.

The general formula can be expressed as follows:

Ry = (L + M) / (L × M) × h × d × k

In the formula, the alphabetic characters are:

Ry- specific consumption of grout per square meter of area;

L and M- respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tiles chosen for laying (mm);

h– tile thickness (mm);

d- the planned width of the gap between the tiles - the thickness of the seam (mm);

k- coefficient taking into account the density of the mortar mixture of the material. It will not be a big mistake to accept its value of approximately 1.7 ÷ 1.8 - for most grout mixtures, the density indicators are exactly the same (in kg / dm³).

The resulting value will only need to be multiplied by the area of ​​​​the surface covered with tiles and, for reliability, “throw” another 10% of the reserve:

Rsum= 1.1×Ry × S

S- the area of ​​the surface to be tiled.

Rsum- the total amount of grout that needs to be purchased (in kilograms).

To make it easier for the reader, a calculator is provided below. calculation, which contains all the above ratios, including the 10% reserve.

The final stage of laying tiles is the processing of joints between tiles. If you do it yourself, you need to know how and how to grout the seams on the tiles, these skills are necessary not only to make the final work look beautiful and complete. The duration of the service life of the coating, as well as the issue of hygiene, depends on the correctness of its implementation.

Grouting tiles is the final stage of any facing work.

Why is it needed

At the very beginning, the question is brewing: when and why do you need to grout the seams on the tile? You need to understand this in order. Seams - this is the space between the fragments of the cladding at the junction. The laying technology predetermines the standards and norms that you need to focus on during the installation of tiles. It is recommended to leave a space between the elements on average from 2 to 5 mm. The larger the tile, the wider the seam can be.

This is done for several reasons:

• In the process of wall shrinkage, the tile may shift slightly, so it needs to leave room for movement;
• The wall "breathes" through these cracks in the cladding;
• Grout protects the walls in the bathroom from the penetration of excessive moisture, if this is not done, sooner or later fungus and mold will form in the seams, and the situation will be aggravated by dirt clogged in the joints;
• Grouting improves adhesion between fragments;
• It plays a certain decorative role. Neat and even seams look quite aesthetically pleasing and mask the remains of the mortar and small defects along the edges of the tile, such as chips and notches.

How you seal the seams between the tiles determines how long the coating will be in a usable condition.

Grout affects the quality and performance of the entire coating

How to choose a mixture

In order to properly grout the seams on the tiles, and in the process there were no unnecessary problems, it is important to choose the right mixture. This nuance is given no less importance than the process itself.

You need to select material based on the following criteria:

1. Color. Perhaps this point is fundamental for most people. The appearance of the finished coating largely depends on the color of the grout. White is considered universal. If you want the surface to look like a single monolith, you need to choose the right shade for the tile. Today, this is quite simple to do, you can simply add color to the standard white mixture. You can play on the contrast, but this approach is used much less frequently.
2. Composition and properties. Mixtures for grouting joints on tiles may contain materials such as gypsum, alabaster, Portland cement, epoxy resins, etc. Depending on the composition, the properties of the mixture change. For areas with high humidity, such as a bathroom, you need to choose water-repellent components, and for surfaces with high load and wear, stronger and rougher compounds. The best option is an epoxy mixture.
3. Purpose. Standard grout is designed for processing wall joints between tiles. However, it still wears out over time and needs to be updated. On the floor, it is better to use a more tenacious mixture, since the tile is constantly subjected to stress and contact with shoes and other objects. That is, a loose structure in this case is categorically not suitable.

Tile joints can be filled with grout of any color

How to prepare grout

Most often today, grout options from manufacturers are used. It is convenient, besides, you can choose the perfect composition for a particular case. Grout is available in two types. The first is dry powder. Not everyone is able to correctly calculate the required amount of material. The powder can be used as needed, it can be stored for quite a long time, subject to the necessary conditions. You adjust the density of the mass yourself, the proportions are indicated on the package, so there will be no difficulties with preparing the grout.

The second option is the finished mass. This is an elastic mass, most often produced in jars or buckets. The advantage is that you do not need to breed anything, the material is already completely ready for use. The obvious disadvantage is the short shelf life of an opened can. Therefore, the remains, most likely, will have to be thrown away. Since it is more profitable to make grout for tile joints with your own hands, purchase dry mixes.

You can make your own grout. The easiest option is a mixture of water and alabaster. It turns out an elastic white mass, however, when it dries, it can crumble, so this putty will not last long. Gypsum additives can strengthen the mixture, but they will not fundamentally change the situation.

Since it is very difficult to prepare high-quality grout for tiles with your own hands, it is better to give preference to the purchased option.

Application

To perform the work, you will need a rather modest list of tools and auxiliary materials:

• solution container;
• small rubber spatula;
• foam sponge;
• water;
• brush;
• construction mixer.

Since you need to dilute the grout for tiles in small portions, you will need a small container. The mixer is used only when preparing a large amount of mass, in other cases, uniformity can be achieved by kneading it with a trowel or spatula.

To facilitate the procedure for grouting joints between tiles, a “pastry” bag is called

How to apply grout to tile:

1. Clean the seams of dirt and dust, degrease and treat with an antifungal agent.
2. Using a brush, wet the seams with water for better adhesion to the material.
3. Dilute a small amount of mastic.
4. Apply the elastic mixture with a rubber spatula directly to the seam itself, tamping it inward so that no voids remain.
5. Remove excess with a spatula.
6. When the mass dries, lightly moisten it with water so that it does not crack.
7. The joints of the tile with the bathroom or countertop, where the plinth will lie, are best sealed with silicone sealant. It will provide one hundred percent protection against water leakage and the formation of fungus along the wall.

The grouting between tiles on the walls and on the floor has some differences. The direction of work in the vertical plane is from top to bottom. The sealant is applied last. It is convenient to work with it, as the tube has a special narrow nozzle. If you are working on the floor, you need to move from the far corner to the exit, just like when laying the tile itself.

Final processing

The next day, after the grout dries, in rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, it is necessary to re-surface the worn seams with an antiseptic, this will reduce the likelihood of mold and mildew in the most vulnerable places of the wall and floor covering. On horizontal surfaces, no matter how hard you try to prevent this, water will accumulate, it can leak along the seams, therefore, in addition, to prevent the penetration of moisture, they can be opened with epoxy. On this, do-it-yourself tile grouting can be considered complete. Next, you need to take care of the tile itself.

How to clean the surface

In order for the tiled flooring to take on a complete look, you need to take care of its cleanliness and remove all traces of putty. It is usually necessary to rub the tile in two or three approaches, if the mastic sags when it dries, the surface is cleaned at the very end.

It is better to apply grout and remove its excess with special tools

To do this, wet the foam sponge with water and rinse the tile so that the grout on its surface is slightly soaked. Next, use a spatula or scraper to remove any excess, holding the tool perpendicular to the surface. Divorces and residues are removed with a sponge or a damp cloth, with its help you can correct the seams. Note that they should not be convex or go on the tile itself. To clean the corrugated tiles, you can use an old toothbrush and water.

Please note: you need to work with putty that has not yet completely dried, otherwise it will be very difficult to soften it, which will greatly complicate and slow down the cleaning process.

By scraping off the hardened mass, you risk damaging the tile, especially if its surface is glossy. It will be almost impossible to remove such material from relief tiles. At the end, treat the shiny tile with glass cleaner and polish it.

It is not enough to know only the features of the grouting work. In addition, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules for caring for such a surface.

They love tiles for that, because they are very practical and easy to clean.

First of all, remember that the cleanliness of the seams prevents the reproduction of pathogenic microbes and fungus. It is necessary to carry out a general cleaning once every one to two months. To do this, you can use a soap solution, lemon, vinegar or special detergents with a disinfectant effect. You can disinfect the surface with bleach, and bleach it with peroxide and soda. It is convenient to wash the seams with an old toothbrush. The steam cleaner does an excellent job of removing stubborn dirt and germs.

Do not throw away the leftover mixture, if any, as you will need to grout the seams on the tiles more than once, especially in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Re-treatment should be carried out regularly as needed. If the seams have darkened, crumbled, or a fungus has appeared on them, you need to clean out the old layer. After that, the joints are coated with an antiseptic, then a new grout is applied. The sealant is removed with a blade and then a new layer is applied.

The correct choice of mixture, adherence to the basics of grouting, regular maintenance and timely renewal not only guarantee the aesthetics of the coating, but also significantly improve the performance of the surface.

High-quality tile laying does not guarantee its long service life. Therefore, a very important stage is the grouting of joints between ceramic products. It is from this final step that the final quality of the work done, the appearance of the composition, its operational capabilities, and durability directly depend. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the features of the room where the tiles are installed, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

The seams between tiles represent the gap or distance at the junction from one ceramic element to another. There are certain and generally accepted standards according to which the technology of laying tiles is carried out. The gap left between the parts is approximately 2 to 5 mm. However, these indicators take into account only the average parameters of the tile, and the larger it is, the wider the seams should remain.

This approach carries a rational grain, which is due to a purely practical aspect. In addition, it is necessary to wipe the seam in the bathroom in order to exclude the penetration of moisture, which is detrimental to the base of the bathroom floor. As a result, it is the seams that are responsible for the condition and how long the shower room will be in. Here are some other advantages of competent grouting:

• improves ventilation of the base of the wall or floor;
• the displacement of the tile is leveled;
• protection against water, dirt, fungus;
• reliable adhesion of all surfaces;
• attractive appearance.

Choosing a solution

It is necessary to wipe the seam correctly so that no troubles occur during operation. To do this, you need to choose a quality composition that has high characteristics. Today, this aspect is given less attention than required, however, this can lead to very sad consequences. To choose the right mixture, it is worthwhile to select according to the following parameters:

Wall joints between tiles can be treated with standard grout, special grout or varnish. After a certain period of time, the bathroom coating loses its qualities, so you should choose a special mixture, characterized by reliable adhesion of the composition to the surfaces. Thus, a composition having a loose structure is not suitable here.

We prepare the solution

Under the elimination of seams, mixtures packaged at the enterprise are usually used. On the one hand, it is very convenient, fast, and the selection takes a minimum of time, and is carried out for each specific case. In addition, being in its original packaging, the powder, unlike liquid solutions or varnish, can be stored for quite a long time. After all, it is not always possible to calculate the right amount of material the first time. Therefore, the mixture is poured gradually, adjusting the density of the solution.

On the other hand, manufacturing companies offer ready-made and packaged formulations in special containers. The weak side of this method of application is the impossibility of storing opened packages, i.e. you will have to use the entire mass or throw out an unused amount of grout. Thus, kneading the composition for the seams on your own is much more profitable than purchasing finished products.

At present, making a grout mass with your own hands is quite simple. An alabaster blank and a certain amount of water will do. Some time after stirring, a white substance is formed, which is applied to the seam. However, when dried, the mass may crumble, which makes it impossible to use it on a long-term basis. Silicone, gypsum additives or varnish will not fundamentally change the situation.

Worth knowing! For the preparation of high-quality grout, it is best to have the necessary experience. Otherwise, the resulting mass will be of poor quality, which will lead to its crumbling after drying. It might be better to go with the purchase option.

How to apply?

In order to qualitatively wipe the seams between the tiles, you need to prepare the following list of tools:

• a small rubber spatula;
• capacity;
• water;
• foam sponge;
• tassel;
• mixer.

Filling the container with water, it is necessary to add a grout solution to it in small portions. Under this case, you will need a medium-sized container, with the exception of when working with large volumes. The mixture is brought to a homogeneous state and applied to the surface with a trowel or spatula. It goes something like this:

• cleaning the base from debris, dirt;
• treatment with agents directed against microorganisms;
• seams are wetted with a wet brush for reliable adhesion;
• prepare some mastic and apply it to the seam;
• carefully tamp the mortar between the tiles with a spatula;
• if there are no voids, then remove the excess;
• after the solution dries, moisten it with water - this will avoid cracks;
• must be applied to the seams between the baseboard and the wall.

Need to know! Grouting the seams on the wall and floor carries certain differences. For example, the wall surface should be processed from top to bottom, and the sealant is applied last. The floor covering is filled from the far corner to the exit, by analogy with laying tiles.

Let the bath dry for 24 hours, then re-treat with protective agents against exposure, rot, mold, fungus. This will significantly reduce the risk of the appearance of various microorganisms for the most vulnerable areas. One way or another, moisture will accumulate on the surface of the bathroom floor, naturally, for it, the seam on the tile will be like a channel for a river. Thus, to complete the work, it remains simply to apply epoxy.

After the bathroom has acquired its final form, it is necessary to take care of the attractive appearance of the room. You can use a tile grout marker to remove traces of putty. Usually the surface is rubbed in 2-3 approaches, if the mastic is not yet completely dry, cleaning is postponed until it is completely dry.

The remains of the solution on the ceramics are removed with water and a spatula. Wet the excess and then gently scrape it up with a scraper. The remaining stains are removed with a damp cloth or sponge. If the tile has a ribbed or uneven surface, then cleaning is carried out with a toothbrush. At the final stage, it is better to use a glass cleaner that polishes the surface well.

Need to know! It is necessary to clean the mastic that has not yet fully hardened, otherwise it will be very difficult to soak it, and for products with a relief surface this becomes very difficult.

Caring for bathroom ceramics is, for obvious reasons, different from a normal room. About once every two months it is necessary to carry out a thorough cleaning here using special detergents or folk products in the form of lemon, vinegar, soap and others. Bleaching is carried out using hydrogen peroxide and soda. They do an excellent job with harmful microorganisms, dirt and fungus.

Video instruction

The modern market of building and finishing materials pleases with a variety of choices, however, the undoubted leaders in this area have been determined for a long time. Ceramic tiles are one of the best time-tested facing materials. The tiled surface is practical and lasts a long time, and the presence of a material with an unlimited color palette allows you to realize the most sophisticated design projects. In addition, the popularity of tiles is also explained by the fact that, in principle, you can tile the walls yourself, and the necessary recommendations can be easily found on the global network. For example, we want to offer you the most useful information on how to grout tile joints.

Grout for tile joints - the offer of the modern market

After laying ceramic tiles, the final touch is grouting; without this procedure, finishing the walls and floors with tiles cannot be considered complete. In addition to practical significance, the seam also has a decorative feature - it complements the overall pattern on the wall or floor. Moreover, manufacturers produce many color additives.

Two types of grouts: based on cement or epoxy resin

Cement based grout Supplied as a dry mix, which is brought to working condition by dilution with water or liquid latex. Although ready-made grouts can also be found in the retail network, their price is an order of magnitude higher. Cement grout for tile joints in the vast majority of cases is made on the basis of Portland cement, and the special additives that make up the composition are the distinguishing components. All grouts of this type are divided into three groups:

• based on industrial Portland cement;
• based on dry hardener;
• based on a mixture of latex with Portland cement.

Interesting! Portland cement is a special type of cement that got its name because it was very similar in color to building stone, which was mined on the English island of Portland.

Epoxy grout includes epoxy resin and hardener, and gives the seams increased impact resistance and resistance to various chemical influences. Such a grout is characterized by a high cost and, as a rule, is used in the arrangement of premises for industrial or commercial purposes.

In addition, epoxy grout is characterized by excessive viscosity, so only a specialist can successfully work with it. Moreover, there are certain restrictions on its use: the thickness of the tile is from 12 mm, and the minimum joint width is 6 mm. Otherwise, such grout will simply not be able to properly penetrate into narrower seams.

Attention! To avoid serious problems when doing the work yourself, carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. This is the only way you can determine which tile grout is best for your particular situation.

Is it necessary to use sealant?

Grouting tile joints - a video instruction of the process, by the way, is located at the end of this article, it also involves processing joints using a sealant. It will protect the surface of the tile from excessive absorption of moisture, as well as protect it and the seams from stains. If the surface is finished with unglazed tiles, then it is completely covered with liquid sealant. Such a specific substance has acrylic, varnish or silicone in its composition. Therefore, it is necessary to choose it based on the type of tile and grout.

Between tiles distance

By and large, the width of the grout joint depends solely on personal preferences. Many people prefer narrow seams, which visually seem to suppress the tile. If the surface is made of elements with a size of 10-30 cm, then the most optimal will be a seam of the order of 3 mm. Sometimes a 60 cm tile is also laid according to this scheme. If the tile is irregular in shape, it is advisable to make a wider seam, but it should not be more than 12 mm.

Attention! The wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack. To seal it, it is necessary to apply a grout with the addition of sand, but this may not always ensure a seam from deformation.

On the other hand, you should not make the grout too narrow, as this will greatly complicate the grouting process, and as a result, they may turn out to be leaky, that is, water will seep under the tile. According to professional tilers, the joints should be wide enough so that they can be filled without problems with any of the selected grouts.

Only in this case, they will become waterproof and will act as a kind of shock absorbers in the process of compression or expansion of the tile. If the seam has a negligibly small width, then it will not have such parameters.

Tools and auxiliary materials

• Respirator (working with cement-based grout).
• Protective glasses.
• Rubber gloves.
• Roller, rubber spatula or scraper with a rubber nozzle.
• Bucket.
• Sponge.
• Plywood.
• Jointing, a wooden stick sharpened at one end or a toothbrush.
• A piece of clean cloth.
• A small paint brush or paint roller.

Brief plan

1. The grout is mixed.
2. The solution is aged to the required level of water absorption.
3. The grout is mixed very thoroughly again.
4. The solution is distributed.
5. Excess is cleared.

Solution preparation

As a rule, dry grout is mixed with either water or latex liquid additives that replace water.

Note! Dry polymer grouts can only be mixed with water.

When using any type of liquid, it is necessary to add only such an amount that will be sufficient to prepare a plastic and easily spread mixture. This aspect is extremely important, since excess moisture can provoke a weakening of the grout. To do everything right, the solution must be mixed strictly according to the proportions indicated on the grout packaging. The container in which the solution will be mixed must be dry and clean.

When mixing the grout, the dry ingredient is added to the liquid. Moreover, initially about ¾ of the norm of the liquid indicated in the recipe is used. After all dry components are introduced into the solution in small portions, the remaining liquid is added, while not forgetting to control the consistency of the mixture.

Important! The grout preparation process can be influenced by such external factors as the temperature regime in the room, relative humidity, and also the component composition, for example, the presence of a dye.

It is recommended to use a trowel or an electric stirrer to mix the solution. If preference is given to the "automation" of this process, then the agitator must be completely immersed in the solution during operation, so that air will not enter it. After all, air bubbles can also weaken the grout solution. It is for this reason that the speed of the blade revolutions should not exceed 300 rpm. At the end of the mixing procedure, the solution must be left alone for 8-10 minutes, and then it can already be safely used for its intended purpose.

Grouting ceramic tiles - direct execution

Grouting ceramic tiles begins with laying the mortar on the surface of the tiles. For proper distribution, it is best to use a special trowel. It is held at an angle of 30 0 relative to the surface of the tile and is applied diagonally. It is necessary to go over the treated area with a grater 2-3 times, and not just covering the distance between the tiles, but trying to rub the solution into the seam with an effort to completely fill it. Naturally, the greater the resistance, the greater the filling density of the seam, and, accordingly, the stronger it will be. The main idea of ​​this work is that all the voids and corners around the tile, remaining after its laying, should be filled as much as possible. When applying the grout, the liquid will leave it, and the seam will be filled with particles of cement and sand. Thus, after hardening in the seam, a solid body will be obtained.

It is not necessary to grout the entire surface at the same time. The best option would be to distribute the solution in a small area, about 1-2 m. In the process, it will be found out how quickly the grout sets and whether there is a need for frequent stops associated with cleaning the surface. In some cases, it is possible to wipe 9-10 square meters. m, and then deal with the cleaning of the working area. If the solution sets quickly, then only a small area is overwritten.

What is a grout bag?

If the tiled surface has such a structure that its cleaning process requires considerable effort, for example, imitation of old brickwork, then it is recommended to use a special grout bag. This "tool" visually resembles a pastry bag, with which housewives decorate cakes. A tip is attached to the end of the bag, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the grout. Then the bag is filled with a solution, which is squeezed out with force directly into the seam.

When using a trowel bag, the tip is placed at the top of the joint and then advanced along as it fills. As a rule, all horizontal seams are filled first, and then vertical ones. In the process of applying the grout, it needs to be squeezed out a little more than it seems at first glance. After some hardening of the solution, it is compacted using jointing or a small piece of a metal smooth tube, the cross-sectional diameter of which is larger than the size of the seam. Then, within 30 minutes, you need to let the grout pressed in the seam seize and then the excess is removed using a stiff brush.

Wet grout removal

When it is visually determined that the grout has hardened sufficiently, the lined surface is wet cleaned. To do this, take an ordinary sponge dipped in ordinary clean water. In a circular motion, excess grout is removed from the tile, while do not forget about the frequent washing of the sponge in water, which must be changed as it gets dirty.

Dry grout removal

The seams need to be aligned and smoothed with a joint, that is, a wooden stick with a sharpened end or the end of a toothbrush handle. Then the edges are trimmed with a sponge. The resulting seam should be even and non-convex, in the vast majority of cases it turns out to be slightly concave. All seams must be the same shape and depth.

We hope that our detailed instructions will help you properly perform self-grouting on a ceramic tiled surface. If some points require clarification, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the training video clip.

The laying of tiles with jointing is primarily associated with the characteristics of the material. It's all about the edges, which do not always have the same, and smooth edges. Therefore, when mounted end-to-end, the rows will have distortions, especially noticeable on walls with a considerable length. Also, this method allows you to compensate for temperature deformations, especially on floors with forced heating.

But, in turn, the resulting gaps must be protected from clogging, and most importantly from moisture. This problem is solved by grouting the joints between the tiles. How to do this work, and what materials to use?

The quality of the process performed, as well as the functionality of the expansion joints, will depend on the correct choice of the main working material. The above factors, due to which it is necessary to grout the seams between the tiles, will prevent: the appearance of fungus, peeling of the tile from the base.

Also, after completion of work, the worn gaps look more aesthetically pleasing, and when choosing a material in a common color, the masonry will have a holistic appearance.

When buying the necessary mixture, you should immediately discard thoughts about the possibility of sealing the seams with silicone sealants. They do not have all the necessary qualities, and it is also not necessary to close the gaps with tile adhesive, which is not as plastic as the materials specially designed for this!

Today, two main types of compounds are used for grouting:

1. Based on cement. Very flexible material that is easy to work with. It happens in finished form and dry. Also divided into options for wide seams (more than 5 mm), and narrow (less than 5 mm). Moreover, for the first, the presence of a filler in the composition is mandatory - sand, which prevents the appearance of cracks.
2. Epoxy grouts. The mixture consists of epoxy resin, hardener, and quartz filling (sand). Prepare the substance by mixing the base (epoxy + sand) and hardener. To work with such a grout, experience is needed, it is very viscous, but the result is such that the seams will not lose their properties for 50 years.

In addition to the desired qualities of the material, the joint filler must be selected for a specific tile. It is worth following these instructions:

• The color is chosen according to the general color of the tile.
• If it has a variety of colors, the grout is chosen according to the prevailing tone.
• When combining different tiles, the material is needed for the general background of the entire room.

Only with a careful choice of grout can you get high-quality finish protection in combination with an aesthetic appearance.

The grouting process

It is necessary to think over the filling of the expansion gaps between the tiles even at the stage of its laying on the surface. Otherwise, you can get too narrow slots that will be inconvenient to fill with material, or vice versa, too wide openings will be created, which is fraught with a significant consumption of grout, and its cracking. A gap of 3-5 mm is considered optimal, in some types of design it is made wider, but not more than 12 mm.

Before proceeding with filling the joints with material, you need to navigate the recipe for its preparation, prepare the gaps for grouting, and also choose a convenient tool.

What can work

The set of necessary devices for filling the seams is small, everything is done manually, which means that no special tools are needed.

• Rubber, and the usual narrow plaster spatula.
• Container for mixing.
• Foam sponge.
• Clean water (if the grout is cement).

It is also worth buying rubber gloves, the base in the form of cement adversely affects the skin, there may be irritation.

Preparing gaps for grouting

In principle, if all the tiling work is done carefully, then special preparation at the work site is not required. However, this is not always the case.

Manufacturers produce various collections of tiles, both for walls and floors with beveled edges (bevels), which are usually lighter than the rest of the background. Naturally, during transportation and installation, these parts will be contaminated, they need to be washed so that after grouting they do not stand out black.

Also, the chamfers should be cleaned during the grouting process from material splashes and at the end of the work!

Before grouting work, all gaps can be inspected for contamination, followed by cleaning, and wet areas well before applying the mixture.

How to prepare a mixture

Some experts recommend using a mixer to knead the grout. But, working in a small room alone, you should not immediately prepare a large amount of material, and even more so use all of it, you may not have time to do everything in one go, and the rest will simply disappear. Therefore, kneading is done in portions, in small batches as they are consumed, and manually.

Usually preparation is carried out using water, less often latex liquid. It is important to observe the dosages indicated on the container, otherwise excess moisture will lead to the loss of some of the qualities of the material.

Mixing is carried out by adding a dry mixture to the water, not vice versa! Moreover, the liquid initially needs about a third of the volume indicated in the recipe, then it is added during the mixing process. By mixing the components, control the consistency, it should be a little thicker than sour cream.

When preparing a large amount of grout, you can use a mixer, and it must be completely immersed in the mixture. It is important, with such mechanization, not to use high speed drills, about 300 per minute is enough.

The prepared mixture should be left to infuse for a period of about 10 minutes, after which work on filling the seams should be started.

Grouting joints between tiles

The grouting scheme is observed as follows: first, horizontal lines are processed, then vertical ones. The whole process is carried out from the bottom up in separate sections.

The execution technique is as follows:

• The work must be done with two spatulas. Plaster steel is gaining a portion of the material, and stretch it along the edge of the rubber spatula.
• The main tool (rubber spatula) is set at an angle of 20-30 degrees to the seam, and the mixture is pressed into the gap with a short movement.
• Surplus, which will inevitably emerge, must be removed with the same device, moving it along the gap.
• On the surface of the tile, stains will inevitably remain, which are wiped off with a sponge a little later.

Attention, a situation is possible when the tile absorbs moisture from the material too quickly (despite preliminary moistening), and it settles in the gap. In this case, you can add mixtures in the same way.

In addition to the technique using spatulas, you can use a trowel bag. This device, according to the principle of operation, is similar to a confectionery device for creating patterns from cream. A portion of the grout is placed in the capacity of the tool, and, having set the nozzle at the beginning of the seam, they lead the bag along, gradually squeezing the composition into the gap. In this way, you can speed up the process.

At the end of the work, you need to wait until the composition dries, and then wipe the surface of the tile to remove plaque.

When you carry out self-grouting of tile joints, you may find, after the mixture has hardened, unevenly filled areas with joint defects. Do not panic, this is a completely natural situation of a decrease in the volume of material as a result of moisture loss. Simply prepare the same grout compound and re-introduce it into the gaps followed by a sponge wash. As a result, you get the perfect design of tiled masonry.