Split system installation step by step. How to install a split system yourself? Installing a split system with your own hands: how to do it right

Buying an air conditioner to create and maintain comfortable conditions in a room can become completely useless. It's no secret that when choosing an air conditioning system, we tend to listen to the opinions and advice of qualified professionals. We do not buy such a complex device at random, without taking into account the volume of the room, the material of the walls, the number of window and door openings. We get acquainted with the available information about the models of the selected brand. And many refuse the help of qualified installers, believing that installing an air conditioner in an apartment on their own is not a difficult job at all.

Nevertheless, the real prospect of spoiling expensive equipment with poor-quality installation is obvious. In our article we will tell you how to install air conditioners in an apartment.

Types of air conditioners

The first device that maintains comfortable conditions in an apartment - temperature, humidity, purity and speed of air movement - appeared in the first half of the 20th century, but in Russia air conditioners for residential buildings began to be used relatively recently.

Air conditioners can be divided into several independent groups:

  • mobile;
  • window;
  • split systems;
  • multi-split systems.

For a long time in our country, the most popular were window systems that are installed in a window or wall. This significantly reduces the level of illumination in the room. It consists of a single unit, so the installation of such a device is greatly simplified. Such models work quietly, are quite durable, they do not have freon leaks, they have a maximum efficiency indicator, but their price is high.

The air is taken out through a pipe brought out into the window. The condensate is collected in the pan. The advantage of such systems is their mobility - you can place it anywhere, and the disadvantages, no doubt, include strong noise.

There is another subspecies of mobile air conditioners. It does not have an air duct, produces much less noise and consumes little energy. The moisture that evaporates during operation enters the room in the form of steam, thereby increasing the humidity.

Split systems are a more modern device that consists of two parts - an indoor and outdoor unit. They are divided into types:

  • columned;
  • cassette;
  • channel;
  • ceiling;
  • central;
  • wall.

Installing an air conditioner in an apartment involves installing a unit outside the room - on the facade, roof, balcony. It is connected by electrical wires and a drainage tube.

Air conditioner selection

When you select a specific device, its power is calculated. In this calculation, it is necessary to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rooms, the degree of natural light, and the presence of heating devices. More powerful devices are suitable for the kitchen, less noisy ones for the bedroom. And the installation of an air conditioner in an apartment, in particular in a children's room, will require the choice of the highest quality mechanism. From an aesthetic point of view, it is better that the device is hidden. A split system is most suitable for this.

Duct air conditioners

This device belongs to semi-industrial type devices. It perfectly solves the problems of ventilation, air conditioning and temperature control in a fairly large room.

In this system, air passes through the ventilation ducts. They have an unusual air supply and distribution system. For this, a network of air ducts has been created.

Air from the street enters the outdoor unit, then it moves through copper pipes, in which it is cooled and sets the desired temperature in the room. The indoor unit of the air conditioner is equipped with filters to purify the air.

Additional functions

Devices of this type, as a rule, are equipped with instructions, a control panel, a set of additional filters. In addition, the duct air conditioner has the function of antibacterial air treatment.

Advantages

Installing a channel air conditioner in an apartment is justified if it is quite spacious (more than 120 square meters). Such systems are more suitable for estates, large private houses.

The ducted air conditioner is very compact, it is almost invisible in the room, since its indoor unit is mounted in storage rooms, utility rooms, under false ceilings. This allows you not to disturb the interior.

Air enters the room from outside. The developed air duct system allows the device to supply it to several rooms at the same time.

disadvantages

Ducted air conditioners have their weaknesses:

  • high noise level;
  • installation complexity.

Installation of an air conditioner in an apartment (channel) can only be performed by experienced specialists. They must accurately calculate the rules for air conditioning and ventilation.

Installing an air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands

After the model is selected, a suitable device is purchased, visually inspect the equipment. This is necessary in order to avoid any unpleasant surprises during its installation. All parts must be securely fixed, the air conditioner must not have mechanical damage.

After that, you should clearly determine the place of the external and internal modules of the device. At the same time, certain rules for installing an air conditioner in an apartment should be observed - first of all, this is the need to take into account the aesthetic appearance of the device and ensure all its quality characteristics. To do this, consider the following:


Indoor unit - location selection

  1. Install the equipment in such a way that it is convenient to mount it. The device must be protected from direct sunlight.
  2. It is necessary to choose a solid wall so that the air conditioner is in a predetermined position during operation.
  3. In order for the air circulation to be of high quality, the installation site of the unit must be well ventilated - the distance of the module from the ceiling must be at least fifteen centimeters.
  4. Get rid of various obstacles in the way of the cooled flow - screens, partitions, etc.

Preparatory work

If you decide to install this device yourself, then you will certainly need a scheme for installing an air conditioner in an apartment. Usually it is attached to all models. If it does not suit you, then look through the special literature to find the best option for your room.

The most time-consuming task in the preparatory work is drilling a hole in the load-bearing wall and preparing strobes - recesses in the wall, which must be of such a size that engineering communications can be placed in them.

If the gating process is unfamiliar to you, you can place these elements in a special mounting box. For drilling, it is better to use professional equipment - a powerful hammer drill equipped with a break drill with a carbide tip.

In order for the holes to be made with high quality, in accordance with the technical requirements, some recommendations should be followed:

  • hole diameter should be 45 mm;
  • it is necessary to drill at a slight angle (for the timely removal of the discharged condensate).

At the preparatory stage, the fastening of the outer bracket and the mounting plate are installed.

When attaching external brackets, follow simple rules:

  • the bracket is selected taking into account the dimensions of the outdoor unit;
  • fasteners are made with powerful screws, dowels, the diameter of which must be at least 12 mm.

You can use anchor bolts.

Outdoor unit fixing

Installation of air conditioners in the apartment must be carried out in compliance with all technical standards.

In order for the outdoor unit to be securely installed, it must be carefully fixed to all available mounting holes. To reduce vibration, we recommend using rubber pads.

Engineering Communication

Installing an air conditioner in an apartment will require certain technical knowledge.

After installing the outdoor unit, you can proceed with the installation. You will need to measure the length of the route connecting both units, and cut the pipeline to the desired dimensions.

Then it is necessary to flare the connecting tubes. Now you need to connect the pipes of the indoor unit to the pipelines.

The final stage of work is fixing the indoor unit, connecting its nozzles to the outdoor unit and connecting the electrical cable.

At this stage, it is best to work together. One person lifts the main line of the indoor unit, the second one advances the counterpart of the route to the street through the prepared hole. The indoor unit is then attached to the mounting bar.

On this, the installation of the air conditioner in the apartment (you see the photo in our article) is considered complete. In conclusion, I would like to say: if you are not sure that you can do this, entrust it to professionals.

Air conditioning on the balcony

As a rule, installation on the upper floors of apartment buildings requires the participation of qualified installers who are authorized to work at height. Their services are not cheap. Therefore, the thought often arises of installing it on a balcony.

This decision has its own nuances. When installing the outdoor unit inside, it will overheat. In this case, it should be installed outside.

The operation of this device is accompanied by noise and vibration. You can get rid of this inconvenience with the help of mounts with shock absorbers. As you can see, the installation of an air conditioner in an apartment causes certain difficulties on the upper floors of high-rise buildings. Permission to install the block on the facade of the building, including the balcony, must be obtained from the architecture department of the city administration.

A split system makes life easier on summer days, but such pleasure costs a lot of money. This situation encourages people to install air conditioners on their own. To avoid damage to the material and other possible problems, you should know the basic principles of installation, understand each installation step and follow the instructions. So, how to properly install a split system?

How to choose an installation location

Determining the location is a fundamental stage in the installation of a split system, which is regulated by manufacturers.

As for the location, you should know the following requirements:

  • The indoor unit should be placed at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling;
  • The indoor unit should be placed at a distance of 30 cm from another wall;
  • The distance between the outdoor and indoor units should be at least 1.5m.

It should be noted that the maximum distance between the units of a split system is not limited. Installers try not to exceed 6 meters, because if additional freon charging is required, additional costs will only aggravate the situation. The ideal distance is 3 meters.

The outdoor unit is often placed on open balconies or near windows. In multi-storey buildings, they are guided by the following principle: up to the 5th floor, the outdoor unit of the split system is installed above the window and at a certain distance from it, if the air conditioner is installed on the 9th floor, for example, then the outdoor unit is mounted at or below the window.

In private houses, the choice of location depends on the strength of the walls and suitable conditions. Installation is carried out on a load-bearing wall using brackets or hung on the basement of the house itself.

What you need for self-assembly

The main thing you need for self-installation of a split system is tools and materials. Specialists do not just set a high cost for installing an air conditioner, because the equipment is expensive. Do not forget about the need for its armotization.

Installation tools

Equipment for installing a split system:

  • Perforator (a tool for creating a hole in the wall through which communications are laid and split system blocks are connected);
  • Drill and drills of different diameters, which will be needed to install the base (fasteners) for the air conditioner;
  • Expander of copper pipes, with the help of which the pipe is deformed to the required diameter;
  • Pipe cutter, which is used to cut copper pipes;
  • Rimmer or a regular file, which are needed for stripping pipes and removing burrs.

materials

The list of materials for installing a split with your own hands is longer and includes the following objects:

  1. Copper seamless pipes exclusively for air conditioners. There is a difference between these and water pipes. For split systems, soft pipes are used, which successfully allow you to create good sealing. According to the diameter, this material is divided into large and medium size. The required length should be 20 cm longer than the length of the communication;
  2. Cable for connecting blocks of a split system. Often a 4-core wire with a cross-sectional thickness of 2-2.5 square millimeters is used. The length of the cable must match the length of the communication or be slightly longer;
  3. Drainage tube - spiral plastic hose;
  4. Insulation for pipes made of rubber;
  5. Brackets for mounting the outdoor unit. Dimensions depend on the dimensions of the block and the bearing capacity of the wall;
  6. Fasteners (dowels, anchors, bolts, screws, etc.);
  7. Plastic box in order to hide communications at the end of the installation of a split system.

Installation procedure and features of the work

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system consists of installing blocks and laying all necessary communications. It is important to follow the instructions from the equipment manufacturer, because each model has its own characteristics that affect the method and location of installation.

Installation of the indoor and outdoor unit

The installation of the indoor unit begins with the selection of a location. Make sure that electrical communications and water pipes do not pass at the attachment points.

First of all, a plate is attached, on which the block itself is then put on. It is necessary to fulfill a prerequisite, the horizontal level of the split system plate must be ideal.

After working with the level, you should put marks for the holes. It is important to secure the bottom of the plate well, where the latches for the body of the indoor unit of the split system are located.

After successful installation of the plate, the indoor unit is put on from above and enters the grooves, which allows it to be firmly held on the wall.

The opening for communications should be at such a height that the drain pipe slopes towards the outdoor unit (slope - 1 cm per 1 m). The diameter of the hole must be at least 5 cm. It is better to make two holes - for wires with copper pipes and separately for a drainage tube.

To mark the mounting of the outdoor unit, remember that again you need to observe the level and the fact that the drain pipe must go along the slope. Accordingly, the level of the outdoor unit is lower than the level of the indoor unit of the split system.

Brackets are installed first. Each hole in them must be used for its intended purpose. The more anchors will hold the base, the greater the chance that the block will not fall. Installation of the block itself on the brackets is carried out using bolts.

Laying communications

The first step is to lay copper pipes. Having decided on the length, they are cut with a special tool, which was indicated above. The edges must be carefully filed.

Insulating pipes are put on top of the pipes, which serve to maintain the temperature. There should be no insulation joints. From above, everything is tightly glued with reinforced tape. Important! When pulling pipes through the hole, it is necessary to block access to the inside to prevent dirt and construction debris from entering.

The cable is easy enough to run. Stripped wires of the required size are pulled through the hole and connect the split system blocks.

To find where to connect the wires, you need to open the cap, which is located above the copper pipe mounts on the blocks. It is recommended to study the wire fasteners before installing the system so that there are no problems during the process.

Connecting blocks

To connect the blocks, it is necessary to observe the correct connection of the cable colors. This shouldn't be a big problem.

Drainage

Or . On the indoor unit there is a tube with a plastic tip, where the corrugated pipe is put on and crimped with a clamp. It is advisable to bring it at a distance of 1 meter from the wall

At the bottom of the outdoor unit, corrugated pipe is rarely used and everything is left as it is. The water just drips onto the ground.

Freon circulation system

Connecting copper pipes requires responsibility and good preparation. Before that, it is better to carefully read the instructions and study the connection points. Copper tubes should not be strongly bent and run evenly with the rest of the communication.

The indoor unit has two ports for connecting two handsets. First you need to twist the nuts. If something hisses during this, it’s not scary, it’s nitrogen that comes out, which was previously pumped into the block.

After cutting the pipe, the ends are carefully checked for burrs and other roughness. For 5-7 cm, the pipe should be perfectly flat. Rolling is carried out according to the size of the port fitting. It is very important that the tube fits snugly on the fitting - this will prevent excessive loss of freon and ensure normal sealing.

If everything fits well, the tube is connected to the port by screwing on the nut. There is no need to use gaskets or other devices. Such operations are done with all ends of two copper tubes.

Vacuum for what and how to do

Vacuuming is necessary in order to clean the copper pipes from air and moisture that gets inside during installation. If it is not removed, a large load will be created, and the compressor, accordingly, will overheat.

There are two ways to pump out a split system.

Puff method

If you look at the port into which the copper pipes are connected, you can see two plugs, in addition to the nut with the fitting. Both plugs are unscrewed.

Work is done with a port of larger diameter. Inside there is a special slot for a hex key. The size is selected according to the place, and it can also be found in the instructions.

Turn the valve 90 degrees for 1 second with the key, then release it. This means that a little freon was released into the system, which led to excessive pressure. On the same port there is a spool, which must be pressed with a finger to start the release of a mixture of freon and residual gases. The operation is carried out 1-2 seconds 2-3 times.

After all, a plug is put on the spool, and the hexagon port is completely unscrewed to let the freon into the system. It is important to make sure that all plugs are tightly screwed in, you can lubricate the threads with soap for greater sealing.

Vacuum pump

The vacuum pump is connected to the spool for 20-30 minutes. During this time, he must completely evacuate the system. Then the pump is turned off, but the tube remains in the spool for 15 minutes. This is necessary in order to observe the pressure with a pressure gauge. If the arrow freezes and stays in place, then everything is fine. The chaotic movement of the arrow indicates an air or moisture leak, so you should turn on the pump again.

Before disconnecting the pump, it is necessary to let freon into the system using a hex key. A characteristic sound in the system indicates a successful launch. After that, you must quickly disconnect the pump.

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands should begin with choosing a place for installation. In fact, everything is not easy. It is necessary to take into account:

So you have to solve a complex problem, trying to satisfy all the requirements and recommendations. Only in this case, the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands will be successful.

Let's start with the simplest: choosing a placement in terms of usability. The indoor unit must be placed so that the cooled air is distributed throughout the room, but does not fall directly on the bed, desk, armchair. In principle, it is possible to redirect the flow using movable shutters, but it is much better to think about it from the very beginning.

The most correct decision in this case is to place the air conditioner above the head of the bed, above or to the side of the table. In this case, the flow of cold air will “flow around” the place of rest or work, which is much more comfortable and less hazardous to health.

In addition, there are technical points that must be foreseen before the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is started. The indoor unit is connected to the outdoor unit using a copper pipe route and a control cable. The outlets for connecting the track are on the right (if you look at the block from the front), but they can be bent so that they are on the left or bottom. These outlets are copper tubes 30 cm long.

Outputs from the outdoor unit of the split system (rear view)

A route is connected to them (by soldering or flaring), and the junction must be accessible for maintenance. Therefore, this section of the route is not hidden into the wall (into the gate), but is covered with a decorative box. At the same time, the track can be positioned in different ways - depending on which wall the indoor unit is hung on and where the outdoor unit is located in relation to it.

Block to the left of the outer wall

If the indoor unit is located to the left of the outer wall, and the tracks go straight, the minimum distance from the wall to the unit is 500 mm (1 picture in the photo). It can be reduced to 100 mm if the route is wrapped onto an adjacent wall, but its total length should not be less than 500 mm. If this is not possible, you can bring out the bends on the left and lay the pipes in the gate (figure on the right). In this case, this is possible, since the junction of the leads and the trace is obtained under the housing cover, so that it is accessible for repair and maintenance.

If cables, pipes, etc. cannot be pulled along the outer walls of the building. (in order not to spoil the appearance), you will have to lay the entire track indoors. A less expensive option is to hold it in the corner, closing it with special boxes. This arrangement is convenient, since then you can close the box with curtains.

The second option is more labor-intensive (it is more difficult to make a strobe), but from the aesthetic side it is more advantageous - this is to transfer the output to the left side panel and put everything in the recess made.

On the wall to the right of the outside

This option can be called typical - this is a standard solution when choosing such a location. most often, the route in the box is led directly into the wall, but if necessary, it can be lowered in the corner (also closed with a box).

If necessary, you can put it in a strobe (the junction is in the body). If the route cannot be carried out outside the building, it can be laid in a strobe indoors. The track may look like the last two photos in the previous chapter.

Where to locate the outdoor unit

In fact, this is not the easiest task - to choose a place for the outdoor unit. Not all buildings allow them to be placed on the walls. In this case, there are only two ways out: install the outdoor unit of the split system in a specially designated place - air conditioning. If there is no such room, only a balcony or loggia remains. In such buildings, they are usually glazed, so the placement of the block does not affect the appearance.

But in this case, it is necessary to provide a system for cooling the equipment and removing exhaust air. If the balcony is spacious enough, for the duration of its operation, open windows for ventilation or providing access to fresh air in some other way. The way out is simple and clear, but it leads to overheating of the equipment, and this is fraught with breakdowns and frequent replacement of the damaged outdoor unit.

Mounting on a balcony is sometimes the only way out

Installing fans for a more active air exchange can slightly improve the situation. It is right to fence off a small room, to make effective ventilation in it, separate ventilation ducts for the removal and supply of air. And they must be separate. This is done with the help of air ducts that lead out instead of part of the glazing. In general, in this case, installing an air conditioner with your own hands is a problematic task precisely in terms of ensuring normal operating conditions for the equipment.

On the balcony or loggia

If there are no prohibitions on placing foreign devices on the walls of the building, usually the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is hung on the balcony railing (side or front) or on the wall, but so that it can be reached for maintenance - wash, clean, check, repair.

If the balcony is glazed, there should be an opening window sash above it. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to serve it. To protect against precipitation and objects that may fall from the window, a visor is placed above the block. The choice of materials is something similar to finishing a balcony or a white plastic visor, but only full-bodied. It is better not to use hollow and metal ones (including corrugated board and metal tiles), because during rain they turn into a drum, and during hail they can generally stun.

If the block is placed on the loggia, of all the above options, only the one in the picture on the right remains. it is inconvenient to place it next to the wall, perhaps under the window, but this already belongs to another section.

One more thing: how to run the track - on the ceiling or on the floor? You will have to ditch in both cases, but in the case of the floor, it is possible that you will make it from boards, then the pipes and cables connecting the outdoor and indoor units can be laid on the surface, but better in a box.

Under or next to a window

In those rooms where there is no balcony or loggia, the outer part of the split system is hung on the wall from the outside. It is more convenient if it is located under the window or to the side of it. Moreover, under or next to the opening part. In this case, service is possible without calling a climber.

When installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner with your own hands on the wall next to the window, consider the height of its installation. You can position the top surface of the block flush with the top edge of the window. In this case, leaning out of the window and insured, it will be possible to carry out work standing on the windowsill. The second option is to align the lower edge flush with the lower border of the window opening. Here you can lie on your stomach on the windowsill, but you won’t be able to get to the outlet of the pipes. That is, you still have to call industrial climbers.

What is required to install an air conditioner with your own hands

For those who mount and connect split systems professionally, it takes, on average, three hours to work. The cost of this service is considerable, and it is explained by the need to use expensive equipment. Good devices do cost a lot, but many of them can be replaced with simpler ones or rented. The only thing that will be difficult to find is a vacuum pump. This is really expensive specialized equipment, but there is a technology that allows you to do without it. This is exactly what some installers do, who simply do not have such equipment - they simply bleed off part of the freon, cleaning the pipes. This method can be used for self-installation of a split system.

Necessary equipment and what can replace it

What is necessary for the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands to be successful? First of all, you will need some set of tools. With their help, things will go faster. But if there is no special tool, it can be replaced with simpler devices. With them, work will take longer, but if you try, this will not affect the quality. So, what you need to install a split system:

  • Powerful perforator. A through hole must be made in the outer wall of a house or building through which copper pipes and cables connecting the indoor and outdoor units are led out. Also, a drainage tube is discharged through this hole to drain condensate and excess moisture when the humidity is normalized. A perforator is not such a rarity, the only thing that can cause difficulties is the selection of the right nozzles. But this is a matter of technology.
  • Pipe cutter with a sharp blade. Split system blocks are interconnected by copper pipes. They are sold in bays, so you have to cut into pieces of the desired length. If the pipe cutter blade is blunt, the edges of the pipe will be wrinkled or jagged. This will have to be corrected with a file and a rimmer (a special device for removing burrs). The pipe cutter can be replaced with a hacksaw with a metal blade, and the edges can be aligned and deburred with a file (needle file), finishing the edge smooth with sandpaper. Only when working, make sure that the hole being machined is pointing down. This prevents copper dust from getting inside the pipe (it can damage the inside of the air conditioner, so this is very important).
  • Pipe bender or spring. To give copper pipes the desired shape.
  • Drill with drills of different diameters. It is needed in order to make holes for the mounting plate of the indoor unit and corners for installing the outdoor unit.
  • Expander and calibrator for copper pipes. This device, of course, is specific, but it costs a little.
  • Wall chaser. When laying a route in a strobe (groove in the wall), this device greatly speeds up and simplifies the work. But you can get by with an ordinary chisel and a hammer / sledgehammer.

Well, as they said earlier, a vacuum pump is needed for a quality start of the system. There is nothing to replace it with, the only possibility is to release part of the freon on tracks up to 6 meters long (the "zilch" method).

In addition, you will need screwdrivers, hex keys, a level, a hammer, perhaps some other tools, but they are usually on the farm or are easy to find.

Materials and consumables

In addition to tools for installing an air conditioner with your own hands, you will need a certain amount of materials. Many of them are indispensable.


As you can see, installing an air conditioner with your own hands requires serious preparation. You need not only a special tool, but also specific materials.

Block assembly

If you want to do everything right, installing an air conditioner with your own hands should begin with a careful study of the instructions. For the most part, they are similar, but allowances, requirements for cable cross-section, route length, etc. may differ. Another plus from reading the manual is that you will definitely have an idea in what order to do the work. In general, here's what to do:


This completes the first stage of self-installation of the air conditioner. Next, we will lay the track.

Connecting blocks

The outdoor and indoor units of the split system are connected by two copper tubes and a cable. A drain tube is also brought out. All these communications can be laid on top of the wall, and then they fit into a special box. The second option is in a strobe, and then you need to make a groove that will connect the two blocks. But, first of all, you need to drill a hole in the wall. This is done after installing the fasteners for the blocks. And only after that do-it-yourself air conditioning installation continues.


When laying in a plastic box, all communications are tied into one bundle. This can be done with ties, but more often they are wrapped with metallized tape - to further reduce heat transfer from copper pipes.

Connecting copper pipes

We have already connected the cable earlier, and the installation of the air conditioner with our own hands is being completed by connecting copper pipes and drainage. Drainage is easier. There is an outlet at the bottom of the indoor unit, and we insert a hose or pipe there. The junction can be further sealed using plumbing fum tape. You can also use silicone sealant to seal.

Next, connect the copper pipes. We start in the inner block. Two ports are displayed on the side wall - one with fittings of a larger diameter, the second - of a smaller one. Which one to start with is not important. The procedure is as follows:


Actually, everything is already connected, but we still need to carry out vacuuming or simply remove moisture and air from the working bodies of the air conditioner.

vacuuming

Why carry out this procedure? During installation, air entered the system, and argon residues are also contained there. This mixture must be removed, otherwise it will significantly reduce the working life of the equipment. Naturally, it is better if there is special equipment. But, in extreme cases, you can do without it.

With vacuum pump

If there is a vacuum pump, everything is somewhat simpler. Two manometers (low and high pressure) usually come with it; you can use them to track the pressure drop in the system, that is, to identify leaks. The vacuum pump is connected to the outlet on the external block with a spool (filling port), it turns on for 15-20 minutes. During this time, it removes the remaining air and nitrogen from the system.

After this time, the pump is turned off, but not disconnected, but left connected for another 20-30 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of manometers. If they have changed, there is a leaky connection in the system. Most likely - this is the place where the copper tubes are connected and they need to be redone. If the readings of the pressure gauges are stable, without turning off the pump, we completely open the valve, which is located below. Freon starts to come out of the unit, filling the system (noise is heard). We put on gloves and quickly unscrew the hose of the vacuum pump (freon can damage the skin). After disconnecting the equipment, open the valve on the route above (outlets of smaller diameter). Now the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is over. Can be included.

Without vacuum pump

With a route length of up to 5 meters, the installation of an air conditioner can be carried out without a vacuum pump. To clean the equipment, you will have to lower a certain amount of freon, but there is no other way. The procedure is as follows:


And in this case, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed and the equipment is ready for work. But in this case, the tightness of the system has not been verified in any way and freon can slowly evaporate, and some air and argon still remain in the system. In general, the solution is not ideal.

Air conditioning should be selected and installed in advance, without waiting for the summer heat. So you can save a significant amount, especially if you complete it. In order for the equipment to work without failures, do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner must be carried out strictly according to the instructions, in a suitable place for this. Mismatch of technical conditions or incorrect selection of parts will lead to a quick breakdown of the split system.

To properly install everything, you should have an idea about the device and the principle of operation of the air conditioner. It consists of a compressor and an evaporator unit connected by pipes. The compressor is mounted on the outside of the wall, and the evaporator is installed indoors. Expensive models have not one indoor unit, but several that are connected to one compressor.

The refrigerant is supplied under high pressure through the nozzle into the evaporator unit. It enters the evaporator chamber, expands there, boils, and its vapors begin to intensively absorb heat. During this process, water condensate is released and settles on the radiator of the evaporative unit. From there, the moisture is sent to the tank and is discharged through the tube outside the building.


All this time, the compressor pumps out the refrigerant vapor from the chamber, increasing the pressure behind the pump. As a result, the refrigerant heats up and turns from a liquid into a high-density mist. In this state, the refrigerant enters the condensate chamber equipped with a radiator, is cooled by a fan and turns into a liquid again. In this form, it is again fed under pressure into the evaporator nozzle and the working process is repeated.


The efficiency of the equipment and the energy consumption directly depend on the operating conditions. If a heater is located near the air conditioner, the compressor consumes and fails more often. Ordinary dust that has got inside the system can also cause a breakdown, and therefore wet cleaning should be carried out regularly and very carefully. You can not put various objects on the surface of the block, as well as cover it with something.

To prevent the evaporation of the refrigerant, all joints and connections should be carefully sealed during installation. The outdoor unit should be placed lower than the indoor unit and in the coolest place possible. It is good if the unit is constantly in the shade from the overhang of the roof or walls. Compliance with these conditions will ensure uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner and a comfortable indoor climate.


Air conditioner detailDescription
1. Fancreates a stream of air blowing around the condenser
2. Capacitora radiator in which freon is cooled and condensed. The air blown through the condenser is heated accordingly
3. Compressorcompresses freon and keeps it moving along the refrigeration circuit. The compressor can be piston or scroll (scroll) type. Reciprocating compressors are cheaper but less reliable than scroll compressors, especially in low outdoor temperatures.
4. Control boardinstalled only on inverter air conditioners. In non-inverter models, they try to place all electronics in the indoor unit, since
large fluctuations in temperature and humidity reduce the reliability of electronic components
5. Four way valveinstalled in reversible (heat - cold) air conditioners. In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of freon movement. In this case, the indoor and outdoor units seem to change places: the indoor unit works for heating, and the outdoor unit works for cooling
6. Unionscopper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them
7. Freon system filteris installed in front of the compressor inlet and protects it from copper chips and other small particles that may enter the system during the installation of the air conditioner. Of course, if the installation was performed in violation of the technology and a large amount of debris got into the system, then the filter will not help.
8. Protective quick-release covercloses the fittings and the terminal block used to connect electrical cables. In some models, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, and the union connections remain outside

Description
1. Front panelIt is a plastic grill through which air enters the unit. The panel can be easily removed for maintenance of the air conditioner (cleaning filters, etc.)
2. Coarse filteris a plastic mesh and is designed to trap coarse dust, animal hair, etc. For normal operation of the air conditioner, the filter must be cleaned at least twice a month
3. Fine filtercan be of various types: coal (removes unpleasant
odors), electrostatic (retains fine dust), etc. The presence or absence of fine filters has no effect on the operation of the air conditioner
4. Fanhas 3 - 4 rotation speeds
5. Evaporatora radiator in which cold freon is heated and evaporated. The air blown through the radiator is cooled accordingly
6. Horizontal blindsAdjust the direction of the air flow vertically. These blinds are electrically operated and their position can be adjusted from the remote control. In addition, the blinds can automatically make oscillatory movements to evenly distribute the air flow throughout the room.
7. Display panelindicators (LEDs) are installed on the front panel of the air conditioner, showing the operating mode of the air conditioner and signaling possible malfunctions
8. Vertical blindsare used to adjust the direction of the airflow horizontally. In domestic air conditioners, the position of these shutters can only be adjusted manually. The ability to control from the remote control is only in some models of premium air conditioners
Condensate traylocated under the evaporator and serves to collect condensate (water that forms on the surface of a cold evaporator). Water is drained from the sump through a drain hose.
Control boardusually located on the right side of the indoor unit. This board contains an electronics unit with a central microprocessor
Union connectionslocated at the bottom rear of the indoor unit. Copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them.

Air conditioner installation tools

If you are going to install the air conditioner yourself, you need to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need:


In addition, you will need a whole bay of copper tube with factory-rolled ends. Scratches, dents and similar defects are not allowed.

It is best to install the air conditioner during a major overhaul, since you will have to break through the wall and damage the finish.

Video - The principle of operation of the air conditioner

Prices for accessories for air conditioners

Accessories for air conditioners

Air conditioner installation instructions

If the tools are purchased, the air conditioner is delivered and unpacked, you can get to work. The outdoor unit is installed first, and then the system is mounted indoors. During the installation process, one should not forget about safety, especially if the work is carried out at the level of the second floor and above.

Outdoor unit fixing


When installing an air conditioner in a private house, there are no particular difficulties in placing the outdoor unit, but the place must be chosen very carefully. The block housing should not block the view of neighbors, and condensate should not flow down the wall of the house. At the same time, the air conditioner should be mounted within reach from the balcony, since such equipment needs periodic maintenance.


It is best if the block is fixed to the east or north side of the window or balcony, and preferably in its lower part. So he will not interfere with anyone, and you can easily reach him through an open window. Using a level, mark the places where the brackets are attached and drill holes in the wall for anchor bolts. For laying inter-unit communications, a through hole with a diameter of 80 mm is drilled. In a brick wall, it is recommended to drill along the seam between the bricks - it will take less time and the hole will turn out neater.


Brackets are installed according to the markup, align and securely tighten the bolts. The outdoor unit itself is fixed so that at least 10 cm remains between the radiator and the wall surface. The connection is made a little later, at the same time the resulting gaps are closed. If the unit is securely mounted on a vertical surface, you can proceed to the next step.


The indoor unit must not be mounted behind curtains, above a battery, or in rooms with sources of electrical interference that can cause damage to the block processor. After choosing a place, be sure to check the wall for the absence of already laid communications - electrical wiring, water or heating pipes.




If the site is free, fix the mounting plate: step back from the ceiling 10 cm, from the corner of the wall 5 cm and mark a horizontal line with a pencil. Drill holes for the fasteners and screw the plate securely. The indoor unit of the air conditioner is mounted on the plate, after which a hole is drilled in the side wall for a communication connection - electrical wiring, pipes, hoses for condensate drainage.

Wiring connection

For a block indoors, they lay their own, the minimum cross section of which is 1.5 square meters. mm. Be sure to install an automatic shutdown. When the wiring is laid, it is connected to the input shield: a yellow wire with a green stripe is connected to the neutral wire. To determine the zero and phase, use the indicator.

After that, the terminals of both blocks are connected with insulated stranded wires, passing them through a hole in the wall. The names of the terminals must necessarily match the wires, everything is clearly written in the instructions attached to the air conditioner.

Copper pipes must be cut, leaving a margin for bends of about a meter. When bending tubes, special tools are used to avoid wrinkles, dents and cracking of the metal. Thermal insulation is put on the prepared tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber is not suitable as a sealant, as it has a short service life.


Threaded flanges are put on insulated pipes, while the thread should be located at the end of the tube. The next step is flaring the tubes. Flaring must be done very carefully so that cracks and grooves do not form on the tubes. The nut should be easily put on the flare, and it is better to tighten it with a torque wrench - this will prevent the flared connections from being squeezed out of the nut.

Pipelines are alternately attached to the corresponding fittings, which are difficult to confuse due to different diameters. The flanges are screwed on the fittings so that the connection is tight, but not pinched, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the tube. In conclusion, a piece of plastic tube with a reinforced body is connected to the drain pipe. Fastening is carried out with a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing or a threaded flange, if it is included in the kit. The drain pipe should be taken away from the bearing wall as far as possible.


Now the pipes are led into the hole, leveled, from the outside they are fixed tightly to the wall with clamps. The wiring cable is fixed nearby, the pipeline is connected to the outdoor unit. The hole is blown out with mounting foam or filled with silicone. All external connections are checked with a bicycle pump and a soapy solution for leaks. If air is leaking somewhere, the thread is tightened more tightly. After checking, the soap coating is wiped from the thread with a clean cloth.



Vacuum system

Vacuuming the system makes it possible to remove the smallest particles of dust and moisture. This process is carried out after sealing the threaded connections, otherwise it will not be possible to completely pump out the air. To do this, a vacuum pump is connected to the system and air is pumped out for an hour.


Filling and testing the air conditioner



The refrigerant from the cylinder must be pumped into the system. An adapter and a pressure gauge are connected to the cylinder, and then, strictly monitoring the pressure, the reservoir is filled. When the process is completed, the automatic disconnector is turned on on the air conditioner, after which the system automatically enters the test mode. If everything works smoothly and the circulation of cold air becomes uniform, you can close the hole in the wall, clean up the consequences of installation and enjoy the coolness.

Find out how it is done, and also check out the step-by-step guide from our new article.

Prices for the range of air conditioners

Air conditioners

Video - Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation

Air conditioning systems have long turned from luxury elements in the offices and homes of oligarchs into an affordable and in fact mandatory attribute of any room in which there are people. In addition, climate systems are equipped with rooms in which equipment is installed that is demanding on temperature conditions. For example, server hardware.

The cost of a modern system is not so high, high-quality equipment can be purchased without any loans, within the framework of one salary. Taking into account the hot summer even beyond the Urals, we can say that at least 50% of the housing stock is equipped with air conditioners, and this figure is steadily moving towards 100%.

Since modern climate control systems are standardized, their installation is not particularly difficult. However, the cost of work increases costs by 30-50%. Therefore, economical owners practice installing an air conditioner with their own hands.

Possible restrictions

There are no special requirements for such work, the rules for installing an air conditioner are usually regulated by the requirements of the SES (they may differ in each region). In addition, some municipalities may impose aesthetic restrictions. For example, in historical centers, or in buildings that are classified as cultural heritage (or are historical monuments), local authorities may establish special rules for installing air conditioners on the facades of buildings. Often such restrictions generally prohibit changing the appearance of an architectural structure. In such cases, climate systems with external modules are mounted on the roof (provided that they are not visible).

From a technical point of view, there are no additional difficulties, except that the line with freon will be significantly longer (which means that the cost of installation work will increase). Another possible problem is the lack of protection against vandals and intruders (thieves). When an outdoor unit is located on the wall of a building, it is not accessible from outside interference.

Sometimes, the literal fulfillment of such requirements leads to aesthetic absurdity.

In some cases, the problem of climate organization (especially if it is an independent installation of an air conditioner) is solved by selecting models:

  • window air conditioning does not change the look of a historic building so much;
  • floor systems are not visible from the outside at all.

We will look at all the ways to install an air conditioner with your own hands, with the exception of a ducted climate system.

For reference: ducted air conditioning involves a separate hardware room with a powerful cooling system. Air ducts (ventilation system) diverge from this room to each apartment (office).

The safety requirements for the installation of outdoor units are also taken into account. Heavy equipment located at a height of several tens of meters presents a potential fall hazard. Therefore, the mounting brackets must be reliable.

The electrical circuit for connecting the air conditioner must comply with the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE), like any powerful electrical appliance. In addition, energy consumption cannot exceed the technical conditions (TS) for the input connection of the facility. Before purchasing, you need to calculate the total power of your electrical appliances, and compare the result with the restrictions set by the company that supplies electricity. It is desirable that there is no need to turn off the climate system when turning on the boiler or iron. Otherwise, it can lead to overloads and emergency situations.

Consider the main types of air conditioners, taking into account the features of installation and connection

Despite the wide variety of air conditioning systems, they can be divided into 3 main groups (excluding centralized ventilation and cooling systems):

Floor air conditioner (second name - mobile)

From a technical point of view, questions about how to install a floor air conditioner should not arise. This is a self-sufficient device, usually on wheels. Such a unit can be installed anywhere, as long as the free space around the ventilation holes is met.

This type of air conditioner, by definition, is connected independently, since there is no work on its installation, as a class. But there is one feature that is determined by the principle of operation of any cooling device.

The air conditioner does not produce cold from nothing (otherwise it would be contrary to the Law of Conservation of Energy). It divides the mass of air into hot and cold. That is, the working stream becomes colder, and the exhaust stream becomes warmer. For example, consider a refrigerator. The generated cold remains inside, in a sealed enclosure. And the excess heat is discharged into the room, around the radiator on the back wall.

In the case of an air conditioner, these two streams will inevitably mix, maintaining the average temperature in the room. Therefore, the "extra" heat must be removed somewhere. For example, on the street. To do this, the floor air conditioner has an air duct (sleeve), which must be connected to the outlet flange outside the room.

If the sleeve is simply brought out through the window, warm air will be drawn into the room, sharply reducing efficiency. Therefore, the hole must be sealed.

The ideal option is the provided section in the window. If you order a double-glazed window, and in the future you plan to purchase a mobile air conditioner, specify this in the terms of reference. In the absence of such an opportunity, you can install a diffuser in the window. Most owners of metal-plastic windows may object: modern frames do not have classic vents. For this, special inserts are provided in opening full-size transoms.

It looks primitive, but it works 100%. The main thing is to provide a reliable lock for the position of the ajar window.

In addition to the formation of "extra" warm air, any air conditioner has another by-product: condensate. The illustration shows the correct installation of a mobile air conditioner with your own hands:

Pay attention to the lower element - the condensate collection pan. The design assumes that the water will evaporate naturally, restoring the humidity in the room.

Information: when warm room air passes through the cells of the evaporator (cold radiator), moisture remains on the metal and flows into the pan. Not only does the air dry out, the liquid must go somewhere.

In stationary air conditioners, a drainage hose is provided through which condensate flows into the sewer or into the street (everyone has seen how water drips from the outdoor unit). But the mobile air conditioner is on the floor, and drainage cannot be provided. Therefore, the state of the pallet requires constant monitoring. Otherwise, your parquet or carpet will be hopelessly damaged.

Advantages of a mobile air conditioner:

  • There is no concept of installation and installation work.
  • Can be quickly installed in any room.
  • No drilling required on walls.

Disadvantages:

  • Low efficiency.
  • Noise in the room.
  • Condensation needs to be monitored.

Window air conditioner (monoblock)

As well as mobile, this unit is made in one case. Only the evaporator and condenser (hot end) are located in opposite parts of the unit. Proper installation ensures that the hot radiator will be outside, and the exhausted warm air will not enter the air-conditioned room. The illustration shows how the internal and external volumes inside the case are separated.

The partition inside the monoblock, ideally, should be in the same plane with the wall in which the air conditioner is installed. If this installation is not possible, it is necessary to provide free space around the ventilation openings. Structurally, there are four of them:

  • drawing air from the room to pass through the cooler;
  • the exit of the cooled air into the room;
  • outside air intake for hot condenser cooling;
  • heated air outlet.

These streams do not mix in the body, thanks to the same baffle. The condensate flows into the pan and is discharged from the housing to the street.

Where to install a monoblock

This type is called window type for a reason. A typical place for installation is a window or a special opening in the window frame. Of course, the ideal place is a separate opening in the wall of the building. However, from a technical point of view, it is quite difficult to fulfill such a niche. Therefore, you have to sacrifice the glazing area.

How to install a window air conditioner safely? If it is possible to change the configuration of the window, the best place is a solid window sill. Again, when replacing old windows with double-glazed windows, it is necessary to provide for a deaf diffuser that can be removed for the summer and returned to its place in the winter. So the air conditioner will be more wholesome (room storage), and in the cold season there will be no extra gaps: it is rather difficult to ensure 100% tightness. Do not blow it out with foam.

In practice, most often monoblocks are installed in the window (fortunately, the dimensions can be selected with an accuracy of up to a centimeter). This is quite simple in terms of preparation: there is no need to redo the window. However, the window air conditioner is quite heavy: in one case there is a compressor, two radiators (condenser and evaporator), as well as electric motors with fans. It weighs at least 15 kg, so installing a window air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands should ensure safety. Otherwise, you will be left without a window and without a comfortable climate.

It is necessary to mount a reliable support, at an angle of 1-2 degrees of slope outward.

When installed in the window, dismantling for winter storage is also provided.

Perfect window assembly

In Western countries, the installation of sliding windows is practiced, in which the window is formed by vertically moving the transom up. This is the best place for the summer installation of a monoblock climate system. The window rises, a special frame with sliding curtains is installed in the opening.

The air conditioner is fixed on a horizontal platform, leaning on a window sill. Sliding shutters tightly cover the body, preventing outdoor air from entering the room. At the same time, the window remains functional: you can raise it by opening air access to the switched off monoblock.

Consider some of the nuances of mounting window monoblocks:


Benefits of a window air conditioner:

  • Easy to install: no need to supervise refilling after installation.
  • Compact size, while providing good performance.
  • The walls will remain intact.

Disadvantages:

  • Takes up a lot of space, partially overlaps the lighting area.
  • As a rule, dismantling for the winter is required.
  • Since the compressor is located in a common housing, the noise level is high.
  • Most often it is necessary to install on the windowsill, so the flow of cold air is at the level of the human body.

Split systems

If, due to lack of space, the question arises: where to install the air conditioner in the apartment, take a closer look at the system with separate units (the so-called split systems). The compressor and evaporator are located in the outdoor module, while the cooling system is located inside. This ensures the aesthetics inside the apartment, and there is some freedom in placement.

The principle of operation of a split system is no different from any other air conditioner. It's just that the functional modules are geographically spaced and interconnected by tubes for the movement of the refrigerant (freon). When home craftsmen figure out how to install an air conditioner with separate units on their own, this item raises the most questions. Monoblock systems are filled at the factory and are sold completely ready for operation. And the split system needs to be connected by tubes, and to provide refilling with freon.

In fact, the outdoor module comes pre-charged. Just in front of the fittings for connecting connecting pipes, there are taps, and they are closed. After connecting, they are opened and the refrigerant is distributed throughout the system, including the indoor unit.

However, proper installation involves pressure testing (tightness test under pressure) and evacuation before starting freon. That is, it is necessary to remove air from the pipe system and the indoor unit. In addition, the length of the pipes may vary depending on the distance between the indoor and outdoor units. In some cases, the addition of freon is required before starting. Therefore, independent installation of a split system is most often accompanied by a call from the master at the final stage.

What jobs can you save on (in the sense of self-fulfillment)

Of course, the installation of the internal module. There is only one rule: it must be higher than the outer one, but it is located strictly horizontally. Then you need to drill holes to the outside for two pipes, a drain hose and a network control cable. With certain skills, this is not difficult.

And, finally, the most "interesting" part of the work: the installation of the outdoor module. Especially if you live on the 10th floor. However, you can do without industrial climbers and a lifting tower. If the air conditioner is located under the window, you can install it from the inside of the apartment.

Any outdoor work must be carried out with the help of safety equipment.

Doing as shown in the picture below is extremely dangerous and strictly prohibited!

Also, when performing such work, an assistant is required. Safety is a priority!

After fixing the blocks in their places, they are connected from each other with copper pipes for the refrigerant. To perform these works, you will need a special tool:

With its help, the tubes are cut, flared, chamfered. Here you need to make a decision: perform the connecting operations yourself (with the purchase of a tool), or pay the installer, saving on the installation of blocks. Anyway, if you just connect the tubes and don't check the system (with vacuum) the cooling may not be effective.

How to connect the air conditioner to the mains? Compared to fixing blocks and starting freon, this is a simple task. Separate power line, RCD, circuit breaker, grounding. It is clear that many "masters" do without it. However, the requirements of the PUE must be met. Otherwise, you may be subject to electric shock.

Important! Before turning on any type of air conditioner, make sure that the transport locks on the fans have been removed.

When choosing a place for an indoor unit, you need to decide how to properly install the air conditioner in the bedroom or children's room? If cold air is blown on the bed, comfort will be replaced by a cold. Therefore, the module is placed near the window, across the bed, so that the direct flow does not cross the vertical projection of the bed.

Important: the installation of an air conditioner in a wooden house, regardless of whether it is window or wall, does not provide for special restrictions.

It is only necessary to make sure that there is no fire hazard, and take into account the strength characteristics of the material. Wiring that may be passing through the wall must be laid in a steel pipe. Pipes and hoses are also laid using a sleeve (possibly plastic) so that the wood does not become damp from condensate.

Conclusion

We have considered typical issues of installation of climate systems. Most of the work can be done on your own, the call of the master is required only when refueling with freon. In addition to obvious savings, self-installation of the air conditioner gives confidence in the reliability of installation. You are in complete control of the process.

Related videos

Loading...Loading...