Connection thorn groove milling cutter. We make spikes with a manual milling cutter

Good afternoon friends!

Today let's look at one of the ways to make a classic carpentry joint. spike - groove. We will make the connection not just by itself, but we will make a full-fledged product - a small decorative table. We will have the opportunity to practice, because for such a product, 8 junctions of the tsarg to the legs are required at once. Along the way, consider some other methods of working with a manual milling cutter.

We start making a spike-groove connection by cutting the groove with a manual milling cutter. To do this, we need a router with a parallel stop and a straight groove cutter. In this example, the grooves are selected on the legs of the table at the junction with the sides. In the photographs you see an example of making table legs from purchased balusters - this is how the table looks very impressive. However, if desired, you can use a regular wooden block.

We mark the place of the future groove as follows: we find the center of the workpiece, because we want the groove to be exactly in the middle (in this case, the thickness of the bar is 50mm, respectively, the center is 25mm). We mark the boundaries of the future groove. A 100mm wide board will be used as a tsarg, respectively, we will make a groove of 90mm. After marking, we install a milling cutter with a parallel stop so that the center of the cutter is located exactly along the center line and proceed to the selection of the groove.

To reduce the load on the cutter, it is better to sample it gradually - in several passes, each time lowering the cutter lower and lower. In this case, the depth of the groove is 20mm, the sample was made in 4 passes with a step of 5mm. As you can see in the photo, on the first workpiece, I did not manage to accurately observe the milling boundaries and the groove turned out to be a little more than necessary. In this case, this is not a problem - all the same, the groove will be completely closed by the side, but you should be careful and try to follow the markings. Without changing the settings of the router, we make the same grooves on all blanks.

To avoid such a defect, pads are often pressed against the workpiece, which physically do not allow the router to go beyond the desired place, but in this case, since the groove is selected too close to the edge of the workpiece, it is not possible to apply this method and you have to rely only on your own strength. If you often plan to make a tenon-groove connection, you should think about making a template that will allow Precisely make grooves close to the edges of the workpieces. You should also be careful with the possible displacement of the cutter in the lateral direction - always press the parallel fence firmly against the workpiece.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of the spike. I had a circular saw at my disposal, with which there is nothing complicated in this. We take blanks for the drawers, set 20mm on the saw - the height of the future spike, and raise the saw blade above the table by a distance equal to half the thickness of the groove. In this case, a cutter with a thickness of 15 mm was used, respectively, we put forward the saw blade by 7-8 mm.

Thus, without changing the settings of the saw, we process all 4 blanks for the sides on both sides. Then, if necessary, we change the height of the saw blade, and in the same way we process them from the ends to obtain a full-fledged tenon.

It remains only to slightly round the corners of the tenon with a knife, for an exact match with the groove, and the connection is ready!

After sawing the legs to size, you can proceed to gluing the legs and the tsarg.

We just need to make a tabletop. In this case, it was cut out with a router from a 30 mm thick glued board. For more information on how this was done, see In principle, the countertop can be of any shape.

The edge of the worktop was then processed with an edge moulder. And glued on the dowels to the kings.

The table is ready! Agree, thanks to the legs of the balusters, it looks very impressive.

In the coming days, do not miss another note on the techniques of working with a manual router. It will be interesting!

Good luck with your craft!

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There are many types of different compounds that are widely used today in repairs. They are needed for assembling and repairing furniture, for connecting individual parts of some functional elements. But the spiked connection deserved the greatest popularity among all types.

A spiked connection is a connection of wooden parts by a snug fit into the holes (grooves) of the spikes.

The connection based on grooves and thorns is mainly used for wooden materials. It provides a fairly strong docking, while preventing the deformation of parts. This is especially good for furniture, when it is necessary to ensure maximum reliability of fasteners.

Everyone can make a spike connection, but before a serious assembly, you need to practice properly if you do not have any carpentry skills. As a result, you can get a fairly high-quality fixation. And if it is additionally fastened with metal corners, then the strength of your furniture is at a high level.

Dovetail tongue and groove production.

There are many ways to make a stud connection. But before considering the main most common of them, it is advisable to take into account some rules and subtleties that will definitely need to be followed during the work:

1. If you have the opportunity, then make a spike on special precision equipment. This will ensure that the dimensions of the spikes and grooves match each other as closely as possible. Such equipment is in every carpentry shop or in the office for industrial labor training.
2. It happens that you are going to make furniture that does not require much precision. Then you can make connections with your own hands. To do this, the spikes must be cut exclusively along the grain of the wood. In this case, the width should be approximately 17-20 thicknesses of the main part. So you can avoid chips and cracks.
3. Things are a little easier with cutting spikes on plywood. In this case, the thickness of the spinal sinus can be absolutely any. The width of the main parts does not affect this. But the principle of matching in the direction of the fiber remains the same.
4. After the thorns have been cut and their size checked, the tree must be slightly dried. This refers to the usual keeping of the material indoors throughout the day. This will allow the wood to take on a permanent shape, which will help avoid joint distortion in the future.

Tool preparation and the first part of measurements

Measurement of straight spiked joints.

And now we will consider the main and most common option of how you can make a high-quality spike connection with your own hands. It is based on the use of a regular file or a large saw (depending on the dimensions required).

So, the first step is to choose a tool. It is important to keep in mind that each file has its own cutting width. Therefore, in the end, part of the spike will become a little larger. And how much - it depends directly on this width. That is why, when measuring connection parameters, consider the width of the cut.

Now start marking. For this you will need a pencil and a ruler. First, measure the parts that need to be connected to each other. After that, the width of the parts is applied at the place of the future cut. In this case, the depth of the cut itself will be exactly equal to the thickness of the main part.

As a rule, in many types of furniture, several tenons or grooves may be required on one piece. In this case, you need to focus on how they will be the same. If they are identical, then one measurement is enough. At different sizes, the required number of measurements is made. Also remember the rule: in thick parts, it is advisable to make cuts a little less, and in thin parts - deeper.

Markup of the second part

Elements of spike connection.

After that, we move on to marking the second part of the connection. To do this, you need to take two parts that are supposed to be connected, and attach them tightly to each other. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the correspondence of coincidence with the lines of cuts. When the parts are perfectly attached to each other, it is recommended to clamp them in a vise so that they do not move.

Now that the parts are properly fastened, you need to mark the second part that has not yet been marked with a pencil, and then make the initial cuts with a file. These will not be solid lines, but just thin marks that look like scratches. But it is still necessary to do them, since it will be easier to work later. Only when making marks, try to do so in order to achieve perfect evenness and avoid bends.

After that, it is necessary to release the parts and move them relative to each other. Here's what's important to keep in mind. If you shift the parts just a little to the width of the file, then the connection will turn out to be quite rigid. And if you make the shifts a little more, it will be more free.

However, it cannot be said that any of the options is bad. It all depends on the nature and size of the parts to be joined. And also from the specific type of wood used. If you are using plywood, then you can only make shifts along the width of the cut, since in any case it will not undergo severe deformation.

Final formation of spiked joints

Methods of spiked joints of wooden parts.

When all this is done, we proceed to the thorough formation of spikes and grooves. In order for everything to go right, it is necessary to constantly take measurements during work in order to eliminate, if possible, the risk of error. Pay special attention to the evenness of the lines. For large parts, use the building level to control.

So, the main part of the work is over: spiked joints are formed. Now you need to finally measure everything to make sure it is correct, after which you can proceed to the final design. To do this, you can use sandpaper or a manual jigsaw. It depends on how rough the surface is.

Next comes the connection. It is important to consider the type of connection here. They are detachable and non-detachable. Permanent connections should be stronger and more solid, and detachable such that, if necessary, they can be disassembled. For one-piece joints, glue is used, and for detachable joints, it is necessary to slightly round the corners.

The option of how you can make spiked joints with your own hands is considered.

There are several more ways, but they are already more complex, and more suitable for professionals. But if you don’t rush anywhere, then you can gradually acquire skills and do the work in the future simply.

There are many types of different compounds that are widely used today in repairs. They are needed for assembling and repairing furniture, for connecting individual parts of some functional elements. But the spiked connection deserved the greatest popularity among all types.

A spiked connection is a connection of wooden parts by a snug fit into the holes (grooves) of the spikes.

The connection based on grooves and thorns is mainly used for wooden materials. It provides a fairly strong docking, while preventing the deformation of parts. This is especially good for furniture, when it is necessary to ensure maximum reliability of fasteners.

Everyone can make a spike connection, but before a serious assembly, you need to practice properly if you do not have any carpentry skills. As a result, you can get a fairly high-quality fixation. And if it is additionally fastened with metal corners, then the strength of your furniture is at a high level.

Dovetail tongue and groove production.

There are many ways to make a stud connection. But before considering the main most common of them, it is advisable to take into account some rules and subtleties that will definitely need to be followed during the work:

1. If you have the opportunity, then make a spike on special precision equipment. This will ensure that the dimensions of the spikes and grooves match each other as closely as possible. Such equipment is in every carpentry shop or in the office for industrial labor training.
2. It happens that you are going to make furniture that does not require much precision. Then you can make connections with your own hands. To do this, the spikes must be cut exclusively along the grain of the wood. In this case, the width should be approximately 17-20 thicknesses of the main part. So you can avoid chips and cracks.
3. Things are a little easier with cutting spikes on plywood. In this case, the thickness of the spinal sinus can be absolutely any. The width of the main parts does not affect this. But the principle of matching in the direction of the fiber remains the same.
4. After the thorns have been cut and their size checked, the tree must be slightly dried. This refers to the usual keeping of the material indoors throughout the day. This will allow the wood to take on a permanent shape, which will help avoid joint distortion in the future.

Tool preparation and the first part of measurements

And now we will consider the main and most common option of how you can make a high-quality spike connection with your own hands. It is based on the use of a regular file or a large saw (depending on the dimensions required).

So, the first step is to choose a tool. It is important to keep in mind that each file has its own cutting width. Therefore, in the end, part of the spike will become a little larger. And how much - it depends directly on this width. That is why, when measuring connection parameters, consider the width of the cut.

Now start marking. For this you will need a pencil and a ruler. First, measure the parts that need to be connected to each other. After that, the width of the parts is applied at the place of the future cut. In this case, the depth of the cut itself will be exactly equal to the thickness of the main part.

As a rule, in many types of furniture, several tenons or grooves may be required on one piece. In this case, you need to focus on how they will be the same. If they are identical, then one measurement is enough. At different sizes, the required number of measurements is made. Also remember the rule: in thick parts, it is advisable to make cuts a little less, and in thin parts - deeper.

Markup of the second part

After that, we move on to marking the second part of the connection. To do this, you need to take two parts that are supposed to be connected, and attach them tightly to each other. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the correspondence of coincidence with the lines of cuts. When the parts are perfectly attached to each other, it is recommended to clamp them in a vise so that they do not move.

Now that the parts are properly fastened, you need to mark the second part that has not yet been marked with a pencil, and then make the initial cuts with a file. These will not be solid lines, but just thin marks that look like scratches. But it is still necessary to do them, since it will be easier to work later. Only when making marks, try to do so in order to achieve perfect evenness and avoid bends.

After that, it is necessary to release the parts and move them relative to each other. Here's what's important to keep in mind. If you shift the parts just a little to the width of the file, then the connection will turn out to be quite rigid. And if you make the shifts a little more, it will be more free.

However, it cannot be said that any of the options is bad. It all depends on the nature and size of the parts to be joined. And also from the specific type of wood used. If you are using plywood, then you can only make shifts along the width of the cut, since in any case it will not undergo severe deformation.

Final formation of spiked joints

When all this is done, we proceed to the thorough formation of spikes and grooves. In order for everything to go right, it is necessary to constantly take measurements during work in order to eliminate, if possible, the risk of error. Pay special attention to the evenness of the lines. For large parts, use the building level to control.

So, the main part of the work is over: spiked joints are formed. Now you need to finally measure everything to make sure it is correct, after which you can proceed to the final design. To do this, you can use sandpaper or a manual jigsaw. It depends on how rough the surface is.

Next comes the connection. It is important to consider the type of connection here. They are detachable and non-detachable. Permanent connections should be stronger and more solid, and detachable such that, if necessary, they can be disassembled. For one-piece joints, glue is used, and for detachable joints, it is necessary to slightly round the corners.

The option of how you can make spiked joints with your own hands is considered.

There are several more ways, but they are already more complex, and more suitable for professionals. But if you don’t rush anywhere, then you can gradually acquire skills and do the work in the future simply.

06/27/2018 Views: 6113

To fasten parquet, engineering and massive boards to each other, each of them has ledges and grooves, which are called spikes and grooves or - according to GOST - ridges and grooves. However, in modern parquet boards, the protrusions often have a bizarre shape, and in addition to the grooves, there may be additional inserts on the ends of the boards. Let's figure out what it is and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each type of connection.

Advantages and disadvantages of the tenon-groove connection

A spike is a protrusion on two sides of the board, a groove is a recess on the opposite. To connect the parquet into a single canvas, it is necessary that all the spikes enter the grooves and hold tightly there. The thorn-groove connection is the simplest; before, all types of parquet were equipped with it. Now there are spikes and grooves in piece, modular and artistic parquet, as well as in massive and some types of engineered boards.

Engineering boards with tongue and groove

Since with such a connection nothing prevents the boards from moving back in the future, the parquet must be fixed with glue and staples during installation or each board is nailed to the base. Or screwed on with screws.

It turns out that when you buy parquet with a tenon-groove connection, you need to include in the estimate the cost of glue, staples, nails or self-tapping screws. If experience and knowledge of installation is not enough, it will be necessary to invest in the services of professional parquet flooring.

Castle pros and cons

The lock is a connection with additional fixation. The simplest lock looks like this:

In addition to the spike and groove, there are additional protrusions and recesses at the joints of the boards that prevent the parquet from separating during operation. Lockable parquet can be laid in a floating way - without the use of glue, nails or self-tapping screws. And although this work also requires knowledge and skills, it is much easier to perform than installing parquet with glue and screws.

A parquet board with a lock can also be glued if, for some reason, it needs to be fixed to the base.

The lock connection is only for parquet and engineered boards, as well as for massive bamboo boards. A massive board made of other species is equipped only with a tongue-and-groove: a lock made of solid solid wood will not spring back and will eventually break from constant loads.

What are the castles

Each well-known manufacturer has its own patented lock with a personal name: Coswick has Coslock, Boon has Boen X-Press, Chers has WoodLoC 5S, Upofloor has Reallock and so on.

The name usually contains the words "lock" or "click", meaning that the boards are locked or snapped together. They need help with this: in order for the boards to securely interlock and all parts of the castle fit tightly into each other, a special parquet hammer or impact block is used, and sometimes both together.

How to fix boards with a lock. Fragment of instruction Kahrs (PDF)

Attention - to the ends

Locks of different companies differ in profile and method of connecting the ends of the boards. If there is an ordinary lock on the ends, during installation you will need to assemble a whole row of boards on the floor first, and then connect it to the previous one. This is not as convenient as attaching boards one at a time. Therefore, manufacturers came up with latches at the ends: you insert the board with the long side into the right place of the previous row, and it joins with the next one itself, with the help of a latch. You just need to press and hear the "click".

Lock Boen X-Press

Demonstration of the end connection lock on Haro parquet

Lock and tenon groove - comparison

When choosing a parquet, you need to pay attention not only to the connection, but also to other characteristics: the type of parquet, the type of wood, the coating, the thickness of the plank and the front layer, and others. The choice will depend on the conditions of your premises, goals, budget and plans for the future. Here are the limitations of parquet with different types of joints:

	Lock	tenon groove
What board is applied	On a parquet board, less often - engineering, even more rarely - massive	On a massive, engineering board, piece, modular, artistic parquet
On what basis can be laid	On a base prepared according to the installation rules with or without a substrate. Cannot be installed on logs	Any prepared base, including logs
How can you install	Floating or Adhesive	On glue, nails or screws
Can I install it myself	Laying parquet is simple, a non-professional can handle it if you follow the instructions.	Laying parquet is difficult, requires special knowledge and experience
Are additional materials needed?	For floating laying, a substrate is needed, for glue laying - special parquet glue	You need glue and staples, nails and screws, as well as tools for screwing or hammering them
Can parquet be reinstalled?	It is possible to dismantle the parquet and reassemble it if it is laid in a floating way	Cannot be removed and reinstalled

Remember

1. Tongue groove - these are recesses and recesses along the perimeter of the boards. To fix them on the floor, you will need glue and nails or self-tapping screws.

2. The lock has a more complex profile and locks boards without additional materials. Can be laid floating.

3. Pay attention to the ends - it’s good if they don’t need to be wound into each other, but just press and snap into place.

4. When choosing a parquet, think about the installation budget, the type of base and your plans for the future: it depends on what kind of parquet and with what kind of lock you are suitable.

For a long time in joinery and carpentry, a tongue-and-groove connection has been used. Ancient architects, using this method, managed to create unique wooden buildings without a single nail or screw. And although a wide variety of hardware is now quite accessible, the articulation of individual parts of various structures by this method has not only not lost its relevance, but is also widely used in modern products and materials.

The principle of connection and its varieties

According to the design, all thorn-groove joints are made according to the same principle: a protrusion is made on one part, and a recess on the second. In terms of configuration and size, they are exactly the same. With a tight articulation of these two parts, a strong technological unit is obtained. During the construction of houses, such a connection prevents the shift of one part of the structure relative to the other; in the manufacture of furniture, it significantly increases the area on which the adhesive is applied, thereby providing additional strength to the product.

According to the geometric shape of the protrusion and recess, such joints are divided into two main types:

• rectangular section (sometimes with rounded edges of spikes and grooves);

• in the form of a trapezoid (also called "dovetail").

According to the number of spikes and recesses that need to be made for one articulation of parts, these joints are divided into:

• single-thorn;
• multi-thorn.

Important! Regardless of the number and geometric shape of the protrusions and recesses, they must be made only parallel to the wood fibers.

Application area

The thorn-groove connection has found application in many areas of our daily life. For example, when arranging the floors of rooms according to this principle, such familiar coatings as laminate, ordinary floorboard, chipboard, fiberboard or MDF boards are joined.

Wood, as one of the most environmentally friendly materials, is used to make a wide variety of furniture (from a simple kitchen stool to a designer set for a living room or dining room), roller blinds, blinds and much more. And all these products are mainly made using a spike-groove connection.

During the construction of wooden frame buildings, houses made of timber, when arranging the beam-rafter structure of the ceiling and roof, it is also impossible to do without arranging ledges and recesses.

Beam connection

A thorn - a groove in the connection of a beam is used both for arranging corner structures made of wood, and for longitudinal alignment of individual pieces. Depending on the dimensions of the section and the expected loads, the geometry and the number of protrusions and lugs are selected. For example, in the construction of wooden houses, one-stud connection is mainly used. And to increase the length of the bars of a small section using glue, a multi-thorn method is used.

Joining boards

Almost all owners of suburban real estate have long fallen in love with such material as lining, as a result of which they get an absolutely flat vertical surface. A thorn-groove connection of boards is used for arranging floors, interior decoration of a house, as well as for external cladding of a building (naturally with an antiseptic coating).

The protrusions are tightly fixed in the recesses of adjacent boards, which prevents their displacement relative to each other. When arranging the floors, the tight connection of the tongue-and-groove boards between themselves prevents their displacement in the vertical plane (the floor turns out to be even) and significantly increases the heat-saving properties of the coating (there are simply no gaps between the boards).

Using a manual electric router

Arrangement of spike joints - minimizes labor costs and significantly reduces the time for carpentry work. Of course, this useful tool will not help when building a house, for example, from a bar with a section of 150 x 150 mm, since there are no cutters of this size for a manual router, and the power of this unit will not be enough to install them. But if you want to build furniture, small or door frames yourself, then such a tool is a must. Depending on the size of the parts to be joined and the geometric configuration of the connection, you get the desired cutter, or maybe two (one for cutting a groove, the other for making a spike). Milling tool adjusters, as well as guide bearings (usually included with these router bits), will help create ridges and grooves that match exactly in size and shape.

DIY tools and fixtures

If you need to make some piece of wood product, then it is not economically viable to purchase an expensive electric milling cutter. Most likely, everyone in the household will have the necessary set of tools, and if they have to buy in addition, then very little. In addition, additionally purchased accessories may later be useful for minor repairs (for example, repairing wooden furniture). In order to make a thorn-groove connection with your own hands using only ordinary hand tools, you will need:

• wood saw (with fine teeth);
• joiner's thickness gauge (special device for marking) or a regular construction square;

• Ruler and pencil;
• wood chisel.

Self-made corner connection

As an example, consider how to make a spike-groove connection of two bars of the same section at a right angle using improvised tools. Let's say you need to connect 60 x 60 mm (they may well be suitable for making window frames for a summer house).

The thickness of the protrusion for a single-tenon connection (in accordance with the recommendations of carpentry handbooks) should be ⅓ ÷ ⅜ of the thickness of the bar (in your case it will be 20 mm). The length of the spike will be equal to the thickness of the bar (60 mm). The dimensions of the recess must correspond to the dimensions of the spike, so that it fits into the eye with force.

Attention! The spikes must be equipped on the vertical parts of the wooden structure, and the grooves on the horizontal ones.

The algorithm for performing work is quite simple:

• First, we mark out future protrusions and eyes. If you treat this process without due attention, then the spikes and grooves made may not match each other in size or relative position. There is also a danger that they will not fit tightly into each other. All this will significantly reduce the strength and reliability of the connection.
• Using a thickness gauge (or square) at a distance of 60 mm from the end, we draw a line on all four sides of both bars.
• Then, on two opposite sides and on the end, we draw two parallel lines at a distance of 20 mm from each other.

• Along the marking lines with a hacksaw, we cut the end to the transverse line, that is, to a depth of 60 mm.

On a note! So that the thickness of the cut (approximately equal to the setting of the teeth of the cutting blade of the hacksaw) does not affect the accuracy of manufacturing the connection, we install the saw blade from the outside (when arranging a spike) or from the inside (when making a groove).

• At the end of the bar with a ledge, we saw off the outer pieces of wood.
• With a chisel, carefully hollow out the inside of the recess.

• We insert the spike into the groove and check the connection made. If necessary, remove protruding defects with a chisel.

Finally

If you need to equip the spike-groove yourself, then it is best to practice on scraps of bars.

If the protrusions and recesses made exactly matched, and the articulation of the individual parts turned out to be strong, then you can start working on the prepared building material. Well, if the spike enters the groove too freely, or vice versa, then it is necessary to once again check the correctness of the markup, conduct another training session, and only after that proceed with the implementation of the planned project.