Make slopes of drywall with your own hands. Do-it-yourself drywall window slopes

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

No repair will be considered complete until the windows are in order. By themselves, window structures are usually mounted by specialists, so there are no special problems with them, which cannot be said about slopes. In the process of dismantling the old ones and the slopes become completely unusable. After all the work with the windows, they will have to be brought into proper form. With proper skill and a little theoretical preparation, the installation of slopes is quite doable with your own hands.

What can slopes be made of?

Three slope options are commonly used:

1. Plasterboard.
2. Plastic.

It is very difficult to achieve perfect evenness of the slope surface with plaster and putty. This is only possible for a professional. With your own hands, you often get a wavy surface, which can soon crack and fall off.

The installation of plastic slopes is usually carried out together with the installation of the window. The surface is smooth. However, plastic is a cheap material. It can get hot and smell bad. This type of decoration is more suitable for office and public spaces.

Drywall slopes in many ways are an ideal option for a house or apartment. The material is easy to process, environmentally friendly. The result is an attractive, smooth and even surface. You should take a closer look at this option if you have to build drywall slopes with your own hands.

Preparation of surfaces for installation

In repair, the first stage of work is important - the preparation of the foundation. Having made a mistake at the very beginning, an undesirable result will turn out in the end. For slopes, it is very important to prepare the surface, which will serve as the foundation for the entire future structure.

1. Cleaning the base for the installation of slopes. Any sharp object removes the remaining influx of mounting foam. If there are large chips, they should be covered with gypsum plaster or cement mixture. The surface is impregnated with antifungal primer - this will protect against unwanted processes.
2. Protection of polyurethane foam in the seams. All seams that have been sealed with foam must be plastered. To do this, use a gypsum mixture and a small spatula.
3. Drywall is afraid of moisture, so you should check all the junctions of the window with the window opening. It can blow through a small gap, as a result, condensate will form, which leads to the gradual destruction of the drywall sheet.
4. To obtain the ideal slope level, a special corner is screwed to the window frame around the entire perimeter. The sheet should be fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws. This trick will help to avoid a large loss of window frame area.

Important! To create slopes, green color with GKLV marking should be used.

Installation of plasterboard window slopes

The most important and responsible stage. The final result of all work depends on the quality of its execution.

• The exact dimensions of the required sections are produced.
• Now you need to correctly and accurately cut a solid drywall sheet into the right parts. To begin with, cut out the upper part of the slope. Mounting holes are drilled if necessary. The resulting strip is applied to the installation site, outlined with a pencil. Then it is set using the building level.
• The remaining side and bottom parts are cut in the same way.

The sheet is fastened in two ways:

• drywall is glued with a special mounting adhesive;
• it is mounted on a frame made of galvanized profile.

Creating a slope by gluing

This method does not require a start profile. It is applicable when the surface is fairly even, but it is quite difficult to create a slope by pasting.

1. All details of the future slope are cut out.
2. The top is installed first. A special guide corner is screwed to it in advance, into which its upper part is inserted and glued. Precise installation will allow you not to make a mistake during the further installation of the side elements.
3. The remaining elements are glued.

In most cases, the adhesive is applied to the entire plane. Usually, the approximate drying time of a particular brand of mounting adhesive is indicated on the packaging. If there is a need to reduce the setting time, then the glue is smeared with strips. All work is controlled by the building level.

Installation of a slope on a frame from a profile

Attaching the slope to the frame allows you to level very curved and curved surfaces. The basis of the whole structure is the starting profile. The work algorithm is as follows:

• Installation of guide profiles. The entire perimeter of the window frame is framed by a starting profile (UD). It is installed perpendicular to the floor. The profile should be fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 50–60 cm.

If the frame is attached directly to the window frame, then a heat-insulating gasket is placed between it and the profile. It will help prevent freezing of the guides.

• Guides (CD) are attached in a perpendicular direction to the starting profile. They are fixed with drywall screws 30–35 mm long.
• The assembled structure of galvanized profiles is sheathed with drywall sheets. As a result, small gaps are formed between the slope and the wall or lintel. They are recommended to be filled with glue for drywall work.

Finishing the slope of drywall

As a result of the work carried out, a flat slope surface was obtained. But without finishing, it will look untidy. In 90% of cases, latex putty and water-based paint are used for cosmetic repairs.

• All corners of the window opening are closed with a special perforated corner profile. It will protect them from chipping and loss of appearance as a result of erasing. The thickness of the profile is only 0.5–1 mm. It should be glued with glue on drywall.
• The entire glued surface is thoroughly smeared to avoid the formation of voids, which can lead to subsequent deformation of the slope angle. The corner is strongly pressed into the glue, the excess is removed with a rag or spatula.

• All corners and caps of twisted screws are carefully puttied. applied in two layers. It is important to let each layer dry for 3-4 hours.
• When the putty dries, the slope surface must be sanded. You can use a grinder for this. If this was not at hand, then grinding is done with a putty mesh or sandpaper. Do not be too zealous, latex putty is easy to process and polish.
• After grinding is completed, the slopes must be covered with deep penetration soil. It will saturate the entire surface and make it homogeneous. In addition, the primer reduces paint consumption and guarantees color uniformity over the entire area.
• The last stage is the coloring of the finished slopes. It is recommended to use a water-based paint with a water-resistant effect. The reconciliation of this type of material will make it possible to carry out wet cleaning of the window.

The most common mistake is the gaps between the sheets of drywall at the junction. They appear from inaccurate measurements or errors in cutting. They are eliminated with liquid plastic, but the surface will no longer be completely monolithic - the joints will be noticeable.

After the plastic windows are installed, it is necessary to finish the interior and exterior surfaces of the window niche. This will improve the thermal performance of the window system, create a comfortable indoor climate and give the window opening a finished neat appearance. There are different finishing materials and options for their use. One of them is plasterboard slopes.

Why choose drywall

When installing metal-plastic structures - windows or doors, there is a preliminary dismantling of old products. In this case, damage is inevitable. After installation, it is required to restore the destroyed elements. It is not always possible to do this with plaster, so many people prefer to make plasterboard slopes with their own hands.

When replacing windows and doors, it is necessary to finish the slopes

At an affordable price, this material does not require special skills to work with it and the use of special tools.

Drywall window slopes deserve attention due to the technical characteristics of the base material:

• it is environmentally friendly and safe;
• has an affordable price;
• finishing slopes with drywall does not require special skills and tools;
• the design is unpretentious in care;
• neat appearance of window openings finished with drywall;
• long service life;
• drywall construction can be additionally insulated;
• in addition to window, it is possible to make door slopes from drywall with your own hands.

For work in "dry" rooms, GLV brand drywall is chosen; in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to work with GKLV brand material. The thickness of the sheet should be 12.5 mm.

Drywall - an environmentally friendly and safe material

Do-it-yourself high-quality finishing of window slopes with drywall can be done subject to the recommendations and technology for performing work. In this case, the appearance of the room will be complete and neat. How to make slopes from drywall will be described below.

Preparation for work

Before installing plasterboard slopes, it is necessary to prepare a workplace - to free up the area near the window. If there is furniture in the room, then it should be covered with polyethylene to protect it from dirt, dust and moisture. Work with drywall refers to the "wet" type of work.

Slopes for entrance doors with plasterboard, as well as window ones, can be mounted in several ways - using glue, foam, putty or a metal frame.

When attaching elements to the wall surface, a gypsum-based adhesive mixture is used, followed by coating with a finishing putty.

Mounting foam

This material is used to securely fix the window structure and to protect the assembly seam from moisture from the street. The installation of drywall slopes is performed to protect the mounting foam from moisture and sunlight, as this leads to its destruction and loss of performance.

Excess construction foam is removed with a clerical knife.

Due to the ability to expand, the foam can protrude beyond the boundaries of the installation seam. Before installing slopes on drywall windows with your own hands, you need to cut off excess foam using a clerical or construction knife.

Measurement

In order to qualitatively make slopes on the door with your own hands, you need to take the exact dimensions and cut out the details in accordance with them. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the need to create allowances, since adjustments may be required in the process of work.

When measuring the niche of a window opening, the slope is taken into account, so the height is measured twice - near the window and near the wall.

Surface preparation

To ensure maximum adhesion of the adhesive to the surface, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the base from dirt, dust and fragile finishes that crumble with minor mechanical stress.

After cleaning the surface with a brush or brush, it is washed with water to remove dust as much as possible. In this case, it is important to remove the old plaster layer or paintwork. With a significant violation of the integrity of the wall in the window niche, it must be restored and leveled.

Before installing drywall on slopes, it is necessary to clean the surface

Finishing window slopes at the leveling stage can be done with ordinary putty.

If the installation of drywall slopes is carried out using a metal frame, then with minor surface errors, alignment can be omitted. The main thing is to remove the damaged plaster layer.

Before making slopes, the surface must be treated with a primer with antiseptic additives to avoid the appearance of mold and fungus.. It is necessary that the slopes dry out.

Antiseptic primer prevents mold growth on slopes

The plasterboard slope should be fixed to the adhesive perpendicular to the plane of the window. Fixing the slopes of plastic windows on the walls is carried out in compliance with their exact horizontal and vertical location. Therefore, before installing drywall slopes on windows, it is necessary to mark their locations with a marker and a corner.

The installation site of the future slope is marked with a marker or pencil

Instruments

From the tools you will need to prepare drywall, glue, primer, fasteners in the form of self-tapping screws, materials for thermal insulation, a small spatula, a screwdriver, rags and a water container, foam and a profile. You will also need metal scissors, a level and a tape measure.

How to cut drywall

If it is necessary to cut off a part of the drywall in a straight line, then it is carried out along the intended line with the tip of a sharp clerical knife. Then lightly tap on the surface of the sheet, applying a meter ruler to the line. As a result of this, the drywall breaks off along the notch line and it remains to cut off the cardboard on the other side.

Panels are cut with a utility knife.

If it is necessary to cut out a curly element, then a hacksaw for metal with small teeth is used. Using an electric jigsaw can speed up the work, but you need to be prepared for a lot of dust.

For the installation of slopes on windows and for interior doors, it is necessary to use GKLV brand drywall.

Foam mounting

Even a person who is far from repair work can fix slopes on plasterboard windows in this way.

Installation of drywall on slopes can be carried out in parallel with insulation

How to properly work with this method:

• when the wall surface is cleaned and ready for further work, a thin layer of mounting foam is applied to the slopes cut in accordance with the required parameters in zigzag movements;
• glue the part on the wall and press for a while, fixing it in the desired position. The foam sets quickly, but it is important to consider its ability to expand, so the element is removed from the wall;
• after 5 minutes, the process of secondary expansion of the foam will occur, which partially remained on the wall and on the slope;
• after the foam has acquired its final volumes, the parts are attached to their places and remain for a day. During this time, the foam will finally harden. In this way, all fragments should be glued;
• at the final stage, with the help of plaster, the joints between the slopes and the wall are sealed.

Installation of slopes on foam is the easiest to perform

Despite the fact that this installation method does not require any complex manipulations, it has some tangible disadvantages:

• the surface must be leveled, otherwise it will not be possible to install the product accurately;
• possible deformation of the fragments;
• possible formation of voids and, as a result, not very reliable fastening.

Installation with putty

Finishing putty can be used as an adhesive material - it has better adhesion. Putty should have a pasty consistency.

Do-it-yourself finishing of slopes with drywall using putty is carried out in the following way:

Installation on a metal frame

Installation of drywall slopes in this way is the most effective and durable. It is suitable for plastic windows and for installing slopes on the front door.

The location of the guides should be strictly vertical relative to the door slopes and in the corner. Then the crossbars should be made in increments of 50 cm. In order to properly make drywall slopes at the front door, measurements should be taken after the frame is installed.

Fastening drywall to a metal frame is the most durable option

Do-it-yourself drywall door slopes are fixed in place with self-tapping screws. It is important to control the effort by screwing in the self-tapping screw so as not to damage the drywall. Drywall door slopes for interior doors will look neat in any interior.

After the installation of metal-plastic windows, the final, but very important procedure remains - this is the finishing of the slopes. The fact is that the role of slopes is not only to create a harmonious and aesthetic appearance of the window and the room as a whole. Slopes take an important part in creating the correct operating conditions for windows made of metal-plastic, and, accordingly, contribute to the creation of comfort in the house. In this article we will talk about how to properly make slopes from drywall.

What you need to know about window slopes and what they serve

The window itself has certain technical and physical characteristics, including thermal conductivity. But in order for the window to provide them to you, it is also necessary to observe the correct installation of the window itself and the correct slope arrangement. As they say, slopes on windows are a delicate matter, and even with your own hands.

After the correct installation of the metal-plastic window (observing the necessary gaps, fasteners, etc.), one more condition must be met - a correctly made assembly joint - the place where the window frame adjoins the wall. This joint must have appropriate thermal conductivity and prevent the development of "cold bridges". In other words, it must be warm.

The window, together with the joint, is an element of the outer wall, one of the functions of which is to protect the interior from adverse outside temperatures. If in winter it is -20 ° outside, and + 20 ° indoors, then the difference between these temperatures equalizes somewhere in the thickness of the wall - this is the so-called “dew point”. In different wall designs and different climatic conditions, it is different.

Without going into the thermophysical characteristics of walls and materials, you need to remember that the mounting joint must be airtight, and the slope must be warm. The first thing to do is to protect the joint from the outside. The mounting foam, which closes the joint, is hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, and collapses under the influence of direct sunlight. Thus, over time, its thermal insulation properties are very seriously reduced (initially, foam is not a heater, this is its positive plus with proper operation). The simplest and most practical thing to do is to plaster the seam on the outside. And then you can proceed to the interior decoration of the window slopes, and specifically the joint, i.e. to the device.

Slopes window plasterboard

One of the best options for window slopes is slopes made of plasterboard (plasterboard sheets). The device of slopes with the use of drywall allows you to simultaneously solve the issues of sealing the joint and its insulation. And also to get a high-quality and aesthetically attractive look of the window. How to make slopes of drywall will be discussed further.

Advantages:

• rapidity;
• availability;
• laborious process;
• it is easy to get the correct window geometry;
• slope insulation.

Disadvantages:

• slightly reduces light output.

Required materials and tools:

• drywall moisture resistant;
• glue for drywall Perlfix (can be replaced with gypsum putty);
• acrylic sealant (can be silicone) or liquid plastic;
• insulation: mineral wool or polystyrene;
• primer;
• putty for puttying the slope;
• plastic L-shaped profile (for the 1st method);
• self-tapping screws;
• perforated plaster corner (optional);
• tape for sealing joints (serpyanka);
• supports for fixing the top panel;
• knife (dummy) for cutting drywall;
• putty knife;
• level;
• roulette.

Production of slopes from plasterboard

The manufacture of slopes consists of the following stages: preparatory, direct installation of plasterboard panels, fine finishing of slopes. In this article, we will talk about how to make drywall slopes with your own hands and at no extra cost.

Preparatory stage

How geometrically correct the window opening will turn out depends on this stage. And this can significantly improve or worsen the appearance of the room.

Measurements of the window opening and cutting drywall

It is very important to make the correct measurements of the window. The window opening is carefully measured, it is advisable to make two measurements of the depth of the opening on each of the planes in order to make sure that they are even. If not, then the width of the slope should be taken equal to the largest value. All panels must be the same width.

If the slopes go at an angle, then these angles should be equal on both sides. For convenience and accurate installation of the side panels, a special template for this corner can be made from drywall or polystyrene.

In order not to miss the size, the panel blanks can be made larger than the width of the slope and cut already in place after installation. But, if the inner wall is curved, then it is better to make the exact dimensions of the width of the slope. They will then serve as beacons for leveling the wall around the opening.

In order to make neatly the upper corner of the slope, the top panel is brought behind the side panels.

Window opening preparation

Use a knife to cut off the mounting foam that extends beyond the plane of the window frame. To clear surfaces of the remains of foam, old plaster, paint. Be sure the planes of the walls need to be primed for better adhesion with glue.

Slope installation

There are three main ways to install slopes from GKL.

Method one - using an L-shaped profile to adjoin a plastic frame

Advantages:

• lack of a joint between plastic and plaster;
• easy and fast installation.

Disadvantages:

• if the slope is not white, then it is difficult to choose the right profile.

The first method uses a plastic L-shaped profile. It is attached with screws to the edge of the frame.

To fix the drywall sheet, the sealant is squeezed into the profile. Insulation is attached (glued) to the slope from the side of the window. It is convenient to use mineral wool, but you can also take polystyrene foam or polystyrene, giving them the necessary shape.

Glue for drywall is applied to the other part of the slope. Drywall is inserted into the profile and pressed against the edge of the slope. By tapping on the panel, achieve its correct location. Check the level for correct installation.

It is recommended to start from the top panel. For a more correct installation of the top sheet and its fixation on the side surfaces, special beacons and clamps can be set. You can fill the wall with guide rails, which will serve as a template for the correct placement of the otks. Place supports under the panel while the adhesive is curing. For better fixation, you can fix drywall on self-tapping screws.

The side panels are installed in the same way. A plastic profile is put on the lower edge of the side panel, so a neat joint with the window sill is obtained.

Method two - direct connection

Advantages:

• there is no plastic profile;
• beautiful appearance.

Disadvantages:

• there is a seam between the plastic frame and the putty slope.

In this method, drywall starts behind the frame profile. For the convenience of installing the sheet, it is recommended to make small grooves in the mounting foam of the seam into which drywall will be inserted. The rest is similar to the 1st method.

Method three - installation on mounting foam

Advantages:

• fast way;
• no additional materials required;
• can be used with narrow gaps between the window and the slope.

Disadvantages:

• with large openings, excessive consumption of foam.

The slope can be "put" simply on the mounting foam. Thus, the foam will serve as both glue and insulation. This is appropriate if the gap between the frame and the wall is small and the slope itself is shallow. Mineral wool can also be replaced with foam. When landing a slope on the foam, it must be taken into account that it tends to expand and correctly dose its amount when foaming. To fix the panel in this case, it is better to fix it on self-tapping screws.

Advice: before applying foam or glue, it is recommended to moisten the wall surface with water.

Sealing joints

The joint between the drywall and plastic frame and window sill is sealed with acrylic sealant. Acrylic sealant is plastic and avoids cracking of the seam between plastic and. It is also well painted with acrylic paints in the desired color.

Forming slope angles. The gap between the inner surface of the wall and drywall is carefully plastered. Strengthen the resulting seam by applying a reinforcing tape or plaster mesh on it and putty on top. The corner can be strengthened with a perforated plaster corner, which is attached with a stapler or putty.

The upper corner joint between the panels is sealed with putty (for this, the upper edge of the side panels is cut at an angle of 45°) and reinforced with tape.

All sections of drywall must first be primed.

Slope finishing.

The surface of plasterboard slopes is primed and puttied in 2-3 layers. The last layer is carefully sanded until a smooth surface is obtained. Priming again. After that they paint.

Useful video

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When installing new windows, the question arises which slopes are better to install: plasterboard, wooden, plastic, or made with plaster. Plastic and wooden ones are sold in the store and are not cheap, and you need to be a good specialist to make window frames with plaster. Therefore, it is easiest and cheapest to install drywall window slopes with your own hands.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Drywall Drill Glue mineral wool Profile Roulette Level Plaster

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Slope design options

The slopes on the doors and windows are not only part of the overall design, but also create some insulation for both one room and the entire room as a whole. They greatly reduce heat loss, reduce street noise and increase dust protection.

After the installation of your windows, it may be necessary to perform additional finishing work, and this depends on the design option, the material used, the method of installation and installation. Especially if the slopes are made by plastering or plasterboard.

And even plastic (which do not require additional processing) elements can cause such unpleasant phenomena as mold and fungus if they were installed by non-professionals or in violation of technology.

There are three main ways to implement this window design element:

• From plastic. The easiest. But due to the fact that the plastic "does not breathe", there is a high possibility of condensation accumulation, and as a result, the appearance of a damp smell.

• Plastering method. The most difficult, though takes longer than the other two. The plaster "breathes" perfectly, but when the slightest bit of liquid seeps out, it tends to become damp and covered with stains or stains.

• From drywall (drywall). Something in between, so modern craftsmen and designers are increasingly inclined to make window slopes from drywall. And this is due to many positive aspects of the latter method: a beautiful aesthetic appearance, because GP products can be given almost any shape, environmental friendliness, durability, easy processing and quick installation, insulation can be carried out.

Be sure to use a waterproof GPU (green and bluish). If you use a simple drywall, then at high humidity it can shrink or swell.

GKL cutting technology

When cutting strips from gypsum plasterboard, you need to be careful to avoid cracking drywall:

1. The sheet is placed with the back side up on a horizontal surface without tubercles, for example, on the floor.
2. Draw using a ruler and pencil.
3. Cut along the lines.

The last operation is very easy to perform. On the drawn line (the place of the cut) is carried out 1-2 times with a mounting knife, trying to cut the paper located on the back of the drywall. After that, lift the sheet and sharply press down to break it. Next, a layer of paper is cut through the front side of the sheet.

Opening preparation

The technological process of manufacturing and installing drywall slopes must be carried out sequentially, operation by operation. These works are laborious, but if you follow a certain order, then you will surely complete them very quickly and efficiently.

Step 1.

The remains of the mounting foam, both outside and inside (if you installed new windows), are cut off with a special knife.

Step 2.

Prime the opening with an antifungal primer.

Step 3.

Cover the entire surface from the outside and from the inside (both the wall and the remains of the mounting foam) with a cement solution.

This must be done not only to prevent the destruction of the wall and its alignment, but also to close the smallest pores remaining in the foam at the points of its contact (adjacency) with the window or opening.

Step 4.

Apply plaster or strengthen sheet polystyrene. This is necessary so that the slopes do not freeze through in winter. Properly insulated slopes do not allow the formation of condensate and leaks from the outside.

Slope installation

Installation of products is carried out in two ways:

• Method 1: Install directly on the wall

This method is easy and is used if the dimensions of the opening and the window match. To obtain beautiful slopes, it is necessary that they are completely adjacent to the surface of the frame, and therefore it is recommended to align all the planes on which the new elements will be installed:

• regardless of the method of installing drywall, old plaster must be removed;
• all walls must be leveled by applying a layer of putty, alabaster or other mixture;
• treat surfaces under slopes with antifungal drugs and insecticides;
• apply primer 1-2 times.

How to make slopes from drywall?

Production of starting strips:

• measure the length of the upper part of the opening and cut a strip of gypsum board or lath about 3 cm less than the length of the opening;
• strengthen it with self-tapping screws on the frame at a distance of 1.5 mm from the upper horizontal and side walls;
• measure the length of the segments from both edges of the window sill to the edge of the reinforced strip;
• cut out the corresponding strips, which are strengthened vertically in a similar way at a distance of 1.5 millimeters from the walls.

After the manufacture and installation of the starting strips, they begin to cut out the main panels for the slopes:

• measure and cut the upper strip to the full length of the opening;
• insert it into the groove formed between the starting strip and the upper part of the opening, trying to find the best position for it;
• having decided on it, draw lines with a pencil on the side starting strips to indicate the angle of inclination of the upper element, and, accordingly, the length of the side slopes;
• then the top panel is removed;
• side panels are measured along the marked lines and cut out from a sheet of drywall. At this stage of work, it is recommended (but not necessary) to install the prepared elements in their places, using props, in order to visually see the alignment of the slopes;
• at the end, all elements are removed;
• the surface of the opening is again primed to apply the adhesive solution.

Glue making

To securely fix the cut panels on the main planes of the opening, all experts advise using special compounds designed exclusively for gypsum products and elements. The composition is purchased at the store and stirred according to the instructions.

It must be stirred to a consistency resembling thick sour cream. This usually takes a little time if mixing is done in a clean plastic container. After work, the residues from it are easily washed off.

Do not carry out this procedure manually, use an electric drill with a construction whisk clamped into the chuck.

How to glue slopes from GKL with your own hands

After making the solution, they begin to install the blanks in the window opening:

• glue the top panel, which will serve as the main guide for mounting the other two blanks (side slopes);
• it is lubricated on the reverse side with an adhesive solution, applying it with “round timber” evenly every 25-30 centimeters. The height of each such "round timber" is about 1 centimeter, and the diameter is 10-15 centimeters;
• the upper element lubricated with a solution is inserted into the groove at the starting strip and pressed against the surface of the opening, trying to reach the panel slope marks drawn on the side starting strips;
• when the desired position is reached, the pressure is stopped, this position is fixed with props, and the excess solution is removed or smeared over the surface. In the final processing of slopes, this gives its advantages.

Then work continues:

• the remaining blanks are lubricated with a solution, installed in the appropriate grooves and glued in the same way, monitoring the accuracy of the joints;
• after the glue has previously dried (about 15-20 minutes), it is necessary to fill the voids between the base plane and the drywall with the same solution;
• after the glue has completely hardened, the starting strips are removed and the new opening is pre-finished

If you do not want to spoil the frame by screwing the starting strips, then all operations are necessary:

1. Perform together (when one of you holds the top blank, the second one does the installation of the side panels).
2. Check with a plumb, spirit level or visual method that the panels are installed correctly at each stage of the operation.

• Method 2: How to make panels from GKL "in profile"

This method is more complicated and applicable in cases where the dimensions of the new windows are somewhat smaller than the dimensions of the old ones. For example, due to the high cost of metal-plastic products or other equally important reasons. But you do not have to putty the wall for leveling (if it is not even).

The resulting air cushion is an excellent thermal insulator. Products are easier to connect. And if you make a mistake in the calculations, then you can easily replace the element.

Installation on a profile or in a corner is made if you have a distance (dawn) between the window frame and the opening, which is greater than the width of the slope. This happens when a standard window (for example, a panel house) is replaced with a new, smaller one.

You can install both the top element and the side elements on it. Compared to the direct adhesive method, these slopes will be placed at some angle to the frame due to the difference between the size of the opening and the window (sunrise).

Profile installation

First you need to take measurements. The length of the top element is equal to the length of the opening. To determine the lengths of the side elements, measurements are made with a tape measure. The width of all elements individually can be determined by two methods only after installing the corresponding profiles close to the frame:

1. Roulette, placing one of its ends inside the profile until it stops.
2. No measurements. Just stick a piece of drywall and draw a line by moving the pencil along the wall.

After measurements, the elements are cut and installed. Before installation, it is recommended to insulate the gap between the drywall and the wall with building mineral wool. It is installed on the wall at a distance of half the width of the slope. The second half of the mounted element is lubricated with glue, it is inserted into the profile and pressed against the wall.

Finishing finished slopes

Pre-finishing is necessary to give the gypsum opening an aesthetic appearance. For this:

• smooth out all the irregularities that may form due to swelling of a part of the workpiece at the places of laying the "round timber" of glue, using a special tool - a grater;
• all recesses should be carefully puttied;
• at the junction of the panels, it is necessary to lay a reinforced tape and cover it with putty or a special white sealant, which is easy to get in a hardware store.

The final finish should begin with covering the entire plane of the installed elements with putty. After it dries, a second layer is applied, achieving a smooth surface of the coating. This is necessary for subsequent finishing.

The last stage of this operation is the application of a special finishing putty, which, after complete drying and processing with an abrasive fine “skin”, acquires a smooth matte surface. After that, the opening (optional) is painted in the color of the window or in any other.

Before painting, be sure to treat the surfaces with a fly brush or a special roller so that a roughness appears and the paint lies evenly and firmly. Paint should be in several layers so that all areas are covered, using water-based solutions for this.

Installing a new door is a joyful event for every owner. However, the work is not limited to the installation of the box and the canvas alone - in the end, it is necessary to arrange the slopes so that the design looks beautiful and organic.

To carry out this event, of course, you can invite a specialist. However, does it make sense to overpay for the services of a third-party master, if such a simple job can be done on your own?

For the design of slopes (- article), materials such as plaster, polyvinyl chloride-based panels, drywall and MDF panels are most often used. Study the presented guides, choose the design option that suits your case and get to work.

First step. Seal with mounting foam all the gaps between the base and the door frame. Let the foam dry and carefully cut off the excess foam with a sharp knife. Carefully sand down any unevenness with sandpaper.

Second step. Proceed to surface treatment for future trim elements. Apply a coat of primer to ensure better adhesion of the plaster to the surface.

The primer usually has to be applied in several layers. Focus on the situation - as a result, you need to get a perfectly flat and smooth surface. Start applying a new layer of primer only after the previous leveling layer has completely dried.

Third step. Start plastering. Buy ready-made facade plaster or prepare a mortar with your own hands from a lime mixture, fine clean sand and cement.

Start plastering from the top door slope. Apply the mixture in a thick layer. Level and remove excess putty with a wooden slat.

To further strengthen the outer corners, mount a perforated corner profile. It must be pressed a little into the still damp plaster mixture.

Let the top coat dry completely and apply the final coat of plaster mix. It should be thinner. The main task of this layer is to level small irregularities. Wait for the final plaster to dry completely. Simple door slopes are ready.

Plastering is the most budgetary option for decorating slopes. Whether to give preference to this method or choose some other way of finishing - each owner has the right to decide independently.

Video - Door slopes

Beautiful and inexpensive slopes can be made from plastic panels. First, the frame is prepared, and then the finishing is performed directly.

frame

For the frame, prepare a beam with a section of 2x4 cm. Plastic panels will be attached to the frame.

Saw the timber into blanks according to the size of future slopes. Fix 4 perpendicular strips on each wall part of the doorway. Attach 3 strips to the top. Use nails to fix the elements.

Side elements

Finishing panels should be slightly wider than the surfaces decorated with them. Finishing elements will need to be bent so that they beautifully “beat” the corners.

From the end, the plastic panels have a hollow structure. Voids of the correct form are present along the length of the elements. To give the panel the desired shape, make appropriate cuts along the voids mentioned. An ordinary clerical knife will help you with this.

If desired, even columns can be trimmed with plastic panels, so there will definitely not be any problems with finishing the corners of the slopes. The joints will be barely noticeable.

Make cuts exclusively on the reverse side of the trim elements.

Attach the cut modules to the frame. For fixing, you can use self-tapping screws or small nails. Fix the bent elements to the wall surface. Work in this order:

• define the border of the trim element;
• make five holes in the wall so that in the future they are covered by the edge of the panel;
• hammer wooden plugs into the prepared recesses;
• screw the panel to the wooden plugs with self-tapping screws (nail it).
• Install all panels according to this algorithm.

Beautiful slopes for the door can be made from drywall.

Video - Installation of a drywall slope on the front doors, part 1

Video - Installation of a drywall slope on the front doors, part 2

First step. Drill holes around the entire perimeter of the opening at a distance of about 200 mm. Hammer the dowels into the holes and screw the screws into the dowels, slightly without twisting the end.

Second step. Determine the appropriate dimensions for the starting rail. To do this, you need to measure three sides of the opening. Cut the guide to your measurements.

You can make the upper guide along the width of the opening, since in the future the side sheets will rest against the upper slope. You can make the side guides a little shorter.

Third step. Screw the starter rail to the wall with self-tapping screws. The long side, at the same time, should be placed outside the door slope, and the short one - inside.

Fourth step. Mark strips of the desired size on the drywall sheet. Cut out the drywall according to the markup.

It is very important to observe the cutting technology. Otherwise, the cut edges will be ugly.

For cutting, attach some long, even object to the marking line, for example, a piece of a mounting profile. Cut through the top layer of paper. Gently tapping the cut strip from the back of the sheet, break through the plaster, and then cut through the second paper layer.

Fifth step. Prepare the glue mixture. Follow the instructions specific to your glue.

Sixth step. Apply a homogeneous adhesive mass on the back side of the drywall strips. Also glue must be smeared with pre-mounted dowels.

Seventh step. Proceed directly to the finish. Bring the edge of the strip into the starting guide. Align the trim element and then press it to the base. Fasten the side slopes in the same way. Remove excess glue immediately, otherwise in the future it will lead to deformation of the drywall.

Slopes need to be supported with spacers while the glue dries.

You can fill the gaps between the base and drywall with the removed excess glue.

Give the slopes 12-24 hours to dry and you can start finishing: puttying, painting or other finish of your choice.

Such slopes will serve for many years without any complaints.

Beautiful door slopes can be made from MDF.

First step. Prepare the basis for future door slopes. To do this, treat the base with a simple lime-cement mixture. Let the mixture dry and apply a primer over it.

Second step. Cut the MDF into three slopes of the required dimensions. Before you start cutting, carefully measure the angles of joining the sides of the opening. Next, you need to cut the ends of the trim elements in accordance with the measured angles.

Before proceeding with the installation of panels, make sure that the joints are correct. To do this, attach the connected elements to each other. Try not to have any gaps - they will spoil the appearance of the finish.

Third step. Apply the desired amount of adhesive mixture to the top of the doorway. Press the appropriate trim element to the adhesive and support it until the adhesive dries completely. Fix the side elements in the same way.

For the best possible fixation of the elements, place spacers between them.

Hide the gaps between the base and the fixed slopes with plastic corners. To fix the corners, use liquid nails or other suitable glue.

Try to choose panels for the manufacture of slopes, the appearance of which would be as close as possible to the appearance of the door leaf. Such a finish will look as holistic and beautiful as possible.

Thus, a wide variety of materials can be used to equip door slopes. Choose the appropriate option, follow the provisions of the instructions given, and you will be able to cope with the tasks set as well as any specialist.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself door slopes