Siding what you need to know when installing. Do-it-yourself siding installation

Building facades with siding can be done by the homeowner himself, if he is guided by the appropriate instructions explaining how to properly mount the siding.

Calculation of siding and fittings

Calculation of siding for a house - a good example

To make it more convenient to conduct, it is necessary to mentally divide the surface of the house into the simplest elements: triangles and rectangles. Now we do the following:

• For each rectangle, measure the width (height) and length in meters. We multiply the resulting numbers and get the surface area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis section of the surface of the house
• For triangles, you need to measure the length of the base and height. Multiply the values, and then divide the result by two - according to this formula, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe triangle is calculated
• Add up the calculated areas of all the areas into which you divided the surface of the building
• Calculate the total area of ​​openings (doors and windows) and subtract it from the total surface area of ​​your home
• Increase the resulting figure by 10% (just multiply it by 1.1). As a result of such simple manipulations, you have calculated the required amount of siding, taking into account the cost of trimming and fitting.
• To convert square meters to packages, divide the total area of ​​the siding by 0.98 (the area of ​​one standard sheet) and the number of sheets in a pack (10 pcs.)

accessories

The length of the starting and finishing strips is equal to the perimeter of the building plus 10% for trimming and fitting. The rest of the fittings are calculated according to the detailed plan of the house. This calculation can be entrusted to specialists performing facade cladding work.

Preparing for installation

Facade cladding with siding attracts homeowners with ease of installation and high speed of work. But these statements are true only if the work is properly organized: all the material has been purchased, the tools have been prepared.

But that's not all: how to fix the basement siding at a height? Mounting siding from the stairs is definitely inconvenient (if not impossible). This means that the preparation of scaffolding will have to be included in the preparatory work. They can be built from wooden beams with a section of 150x59 mm. For less critical parts, a 100x50 mm beam will go. The flooring is made from boards. Its thickness is from 25 to 40 mm.

Still need to organize a place for cutting blanks. It is most convenient to cut the siding on the table.

Tool

To perform siding work, you will need:

• Saw - manual or electric (radial or easel) and panels with a fine tooth to it
• Hacksaw with fine teeth
• Square and tape measure
• Sheet metal shears
• Nail puller and hammer
• Awl, knife and screwdriver
• Punch for punching "lugs" along the edge of the siding for its fastening under windows and in the upper zone of the wall
• Perforator
• Level
• Protective glasses

Now we will analyze what screws to fix the siding with.

To fix the siding, stock up on roofing steel nails. They can be replaced with aluminum heads with a diameter of 9.5 mm. The diameter of the nail rod must be at least 3 mm, and its length must be equal to the thickness of the entire sheathing cake plus at least 20 mm to enter the base (bearing wall).

Preparing the wall surface for cladding

• Remove gutters, lighting fixtures, and other items that may interfere with proper siding installation.
• Remove old window sills
• Remove old putty from around window frames, sills, and other surfaces.
• Prepare the walls especially carefully, if the house is old, all rotten wood must be removed, weakly fixed elements should be nailed
• In many private courtyards, bushes grow close to the house, and tree branches knock on the window. Of course, they will interfere with the installation of facade decoration. But do not rush to take up the ax: take better pieces of rope and tie the unruly branches. In this way, you will expand the space for work and do not damage green spaces.

Find out more about decorating the front of your home. The plinth, or the face of your home, requires special attention. Learn more and the result will meet your expectations.

Still choose siding for the facade? - Types of siding for house cladding are presented in detail. Here you will definitely find the perfect solution for your home.

crate

For the device of the crate, a wooden rail with a section of 40x60 mm is suitable. They are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. The rail can be replaced with a galvanized profile. The step of the crate is from 30 to 40 cm. If the house is located in a strong wind zone, the step is reduced to 20 cm.

Around the openings of windows and doors, in places where lamps are installed and other elements are suspended, at all corners of the building, an additional crate is arranged along the top and bottom of the sheathing. The rail is located vertically, horizontal struts are not placed - they will lead to a clear deterioration in the ventilation of the under-siding space.

Wall insulation

Traditionally, insulation is placed under the siding. In this case, the thickness of the lath of the crate should exceed the thickness of the insulation by 15 - 20 mm. Due to this difference, a guaranteed gap between the siding and the heat-insulating layer will be provided. After installing the insulation on the crate, the waterproofing layer is strengthened, and only after that they begin to install the siding.

Setting the starting strip

Chalk mark the bottom level of the siding installation. It should be 75 - 80 mm from the level of the blind area. Now set the start profile to the chalk markings with the top edge and nail it. Between the profile sections and the corner (internal or external) a gap of 6 mm must be observed, designed to compensate for the expansion of the siding.

Hardware fixing

The general concept of "fittings" combines into a group a variety of elements designed for the convenience of attaching the siding to the wall. This group includes near-window strips, spotlights, moldings, external and internal corners, etc. All of them are attached in a certain way, specified by the manufacturer's instructions.

Installation of external corners

External corners are mounted on the corners of the house. The lower edge of the first element is set 6 mm below the starting strip. A gap of 6 mm is also left between the eaves and the upper edge of the last corner. If you subsequently plan to hem the cornice overhang with a soffit, increase this gap by its thickness.

Installation of J-bars around openings (doors and windows)

Photo of fastening the J-bar around the window

To join wall cladding with door and window openings, a J-bar is installed around them. To do this, in the bottom of the bar, located horizontally above the opening, an eyelet is cut out and lowered down. Then the bent front of the bar is cut at an angle of 45 degrees. At the vertical strips, a rectangular cutout is cut out in the bottom (its depth is 20 mm). After that, all the frame elements are connected at the junction.

Siding installation

Visual instruction: how to fix siding correctly

Installation of siding panels is carried out in the direction from the bottom up. You need to start working from the rear facade of the house towards the main one, then the overlaps will not spoil the front view.

Connection points must be displaced relative to each other. The minimum distance between the joints is 100 cm in the horizontal direction and at least two rows in the vertical direction. The overlap of the horizontal panels is 225 mm. Excessive overlapping of the panels restricts movement and damages them.

[сaution] It takes about a week for an area of ​​112 square meters. Preparatory work (with the installation of insulation and installation of the crate) takes about 4 days. Siding can be mounted in three days of full-fledged work.

Video how to fix siding

Pneumatic tools adapted for siding fastening significantly speed up the installation process. The video shows in detail how to fix vinyl siding quickly and easily.

Mounting siding is a good decorative move for decorating a veranda, house, log house and other structures. In addition to the excellent appearance, the profile is distinguished by a large number of positive qualities, of which a high level can be distinguished:

• resistance to low temperatures;
• moisture resistance;
• durability.

Wall siding installation

If the former beauty of your house, log house or veranda has been lost, and you don’t know how to restore the building to its former beauty, do-it-yourself insulation and wall cladding of the house, log house or veranda is a wonderful way out of this situation. You will be pleasantly surprised by the fact that cladding and insulation will be within your power and you will not have to hire experienced finishers, you can easily do all the work yourself.

In cleaning, siding is not whimsical - painting and the use of specialized impregnations are not required. For care, you can simply occasionally clean the profile from dirt with water.

Siding can be made from different materials, but metal is considered the most high-quality and popular. Metal siding is made from galvanized steel and treated with a special polymer composition. It is metal siding that is considered the most durable material that can be used at different temperatures.

Technical features of the panel are given in the table.

What do you need to know before starting work?

How to fix siding to the wall?

Before attaching a profile, you need to buy it in the right size and color. To sheathe the wall with your own hands, siding is best suited, the length of which is 6m. This length of the canvas is the most popular, since after working with it the least waste remains.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the color of the siding plays an important role, and the cost of 1m2 of fabric varies between 150-200 rubles.

Regarding colors and textures, the profile has no restrictions. Today, siding is presented on the market in all kinds of colors and in different textures, which can imitate wood, brick, stone, and so on.

Many beginners are very interested in fixing siding, which can be done by hand in two variations. If the material is fixed, as the technology says, then before installation, you will have to install and align the guide rails. In another case, the siding can be mounted on the old sheathing, and in such a situation there will be no need to install guide rails.

How to correctly calculate the amount of material and gable?

Attaching siding to the wall

When you finally decide on the type of siding, you will have to start calculating its quantity. The easiest way to calculate is using a drawing. To do this, you can depict the building schematically and measure all the walls using the formula S \u003d axb, where a is the horizontal length of the wall, b is the vertical length. The area is calculated for each wall separately, and as a result, the sum of the footage of all surfaces is adjusted. In such a simple way, you will correctly calculate the total surface area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entire house, log house or veranda.

Pay special attention to the fact that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls is calculated minus all windows and doors. You also need to take away all the decorative elements. You don't plan on siding them, do you?

If you are interested in how to sheathe the gable with siding, then for this you need to correctly calculate its area. To do this, you can imagine the pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle, in which the sides a and b will be equal, and the base can be denoted by the letter c. Now the following formula comes into play: P = (a + b + c) / 2, in which P is a semi-perimeter.

After that, you will need to use another formula that looks like this: S=p(p-a)(p-b)(p-c).

If we substitute data for the perimeter, we get the following:

• a and b = 8m;
• c = 6m;
• according to the first formula, it turns out: P \u003d (8 + 8 + 6) / 2 \u003d 11m (this is a semi-perimeter);
• we calculate the area: S=11(11-8)(11-8)(11-6);
• as a result, we obtain the following data: S=495=22.25m2.

Thus, despite the fact that we had to carry out several mathematical calculations, we got the desired area. Such simple actions can significantly save material and prevent it from being overused when you decide to sheathe the gable with siding.

Surface preparation

Do-it-yourself siding installation

If you nevertheless decide to sheathe the surface of the house, log house or veranda with siding with your own hands, you need to know what it can be attached to, and what tools and materials you will need for this. You also need to know which mounting technology will help you with this.

And so, here is a list of tools that you need to acquire before starting work:

• circular file;
• metal ruler;
• roulette;
• hammer, pliers and pliers;
• square (preferably made of metal or wood);
• fine-toothed hacksaw for metal;
• a screwdriver with a flat and Phillips blade;
• knife-cutter;
• thin rope;
• level;
• screwdriver

First of all, you need to remove all kinds of plants and weeds from the walls. If the building has a drain or other decorative elements, they will have to be dismantled. In general, you need to remove all elements that can interfere with the quality of the work.

If there are rotten elements on the wall, they will either have to be removed or replaced with new ones, because putrefactive deformations and changes in wood cannot be stopped. The rest of the surface is best treated with antiseptic agents.

After the decorative elements are removed, take a level and make sure the walls are even.

Wall insulation and lathing

Do-it-yourself wall cladding with siding

Before starting a conversation about siding fasteners, let's talk about the concept of battens. New framing of a building can only be avoided when the old wall cladding is in good condition.

If it is planned to clad an old house, log house or veranda, then the work here will be a little more complicated by the fact that from time to time the walls could deform or “float”. In such a situation, you will have to purchase the necessary tools and install scaffolding, because if you do the work yourself without outside help, you cannot do without them.

On "floating" or concrete walls, it is necessary to install a crate of boards or slats. The slats are fixed to the surface of the walls with ordinary nails, the length of which is 10 cm. Reiki should be nailed with a step width of 30-40cm. Please note that they must be installed around a window or doorway, as well as on all corners of the veranda, house or log house.

During the crate of the structure, you can also do its insulation, for which you can choose foam, mineral wool, glass wool or ordinary polyethylene.

Now the most important question arises: how can the profile be properly fixed in order to ensure subsequent insulation? All manufacturers indicate in the instructions that the profile can be fixed with galvanized or aluminum nails. But, if you think about it, it becomes clear that the easiest way to fix the siding profile is with self-tapping screws. Ask why so? Just imagine that you are doing the insulation with your own hands, balancing on the stairs, holding a siding profile in one hand, and a hammer and nails in the other. In this "pose" you will also need to manage to hammer a nail. Not very convenient, right? And the self-tapping screw has a magnetic cap, it is easily held on the drill bit of the screwdriver and easily enters the canvas.

Siding installation technology

We install siding panels ourselves

And so, we talked about how to fix the siding, now you can proceed with the installation of the canvas with your own hands and begin the insulation of the structure.

First of all, you need to talk about fixing the starting strip:

• find the lowest point of the old cladding;
• draw an even vertical line that will be 3-4 cm higher than the lowest mark;
• fix the starting bar so that its upper edge is at the level of the drawn line, attach it with self-tapping screws.

Please note that it is very important not to start installing the siding until the starting rail has been installed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe veranda, log house or house, or in the specific place that you wanted to decorate.

During installation work, you must follow several rules, namely:

1. Facing and insulation with siding should be done by hand so that there are no barriers to its thermal expansion and contraction;
2. Do not install the panel very close to the surface of the walls of the veranda, house or log house.
3. Do not drive the screws too deep. This will not allow the surface to deform during sharp temperature fluctuations.
4. Drive nails or self-tapping screws into the middle of the oblong mounting hole, but not into the corners. The step with which it is best to drive in nails is 30-40 cm.
5. Cladding and insulation of the walls of the house, log house or veranda should start from the bottom, and then you need to slightly push the panel up until you hear the click of the “lock”.

We hope that after reading the article you no longer have questions regarding do-it-yourself siding fasteners.

If you want to quickly, beautifully and inexpensively finish the facade of the house, most likely you will come to the decision to use siding. These are far from those frankly plastic thin boards with an unpleasant sheen. Modern siding imitates different textures of traditional finishing materials: stone, brick, wood. All surfaces are quite reliable look. If a torn stone, then the color and surface are very similar. In brick-like panels there are even color irregularities natural for this material, cracks and chips are pressed through and drawn. The texture of the wood is also quite accurately conveyed. Not in all materials, but in many. It is produced today using at least five different materials and many technologies. Another important advantage of this material is that do-it-yourself siding installation is not a super-difficult task, accessible to anyone who is able to hold a hammer.

Types of siding for house cladding

Let's start with the fact that it is produced from different materials: based on polymers, wood, metal and their combinations. Here are the main types that are used for exterior cladding of houses:

• Polymeric:
  • vinyl;
  • acrylic;
• Metal siding:
  • aluminum;
  • galvanized iron;
• fiber cement;
• WPC is a wood-polymer composite.

Polymeric

The first polymer siding we had was vinyl siding - made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Today it also exists and has the lowest prices, and outwardly it already differs significantly from the first samples. It has become much more attractive, there is not only smooth - with an imitation of the surface of wood - it is also called "log siding". This is if it is semicircular in cross section. There is one that repeats the profile of the timber. So you can sheathe the house with timber siding. Some of the profiles and colors can be seen in the photo gallery.

This house is finished with log-like siding (acrylic or vinyl - unknown) This is vinyl siding for timber - different colors From a distance it looks like a log, close, of course, not very PVC siding - log imitation This is vinyl siding, which is called "herringbone" for its characteristic profile. Its surface can imitate wood, and almost any color. It's just that some are hard to find. It's just a smooth color - a small part of the palette.

The second polymer siding is acrylic. It costs about 50% more than vinyl, but it is justified: it has better characteristics, many people like it more externally. What are its advantages? It is more plastic, due to which it can withstand heavy loads, it cracks less in the cold (vinyl becomes brittle at sub-zero temperatures). The operating temperature range of acrylic is from -50°C to +50°C, acrylic can be heated to +85°C without loss of operational properties. And one more thing: acrylic burns out less, although it all depends on the quality of the pigment. All these features are reflected in the warranty period: manufacturers give a guarantee of 25 years for imported vinyl siding (ours is 5-7), for acrylic - 50 years (ours is about 10). Outwardly, acrylic is almost no different from vinyl, so there is no point in publishing similar drawings.

This was all about traditional siding, which is produced in the form of long strips (the thickness of the polymer wall, by the way, is from 0.8 to 1.2 mm). But there is also a basement option, which looks like sheets with jagged edges (for better joining). It is also called facade panels. It very reliably imitates masonry or brickwork, as well as some types of wood coatings - wood chips, for example. See some samples of basement siding in the photo gallery.

The simple geometry of the house emphasizes the “naturalness” of the finish Facing the basement siding of the whole house is a quick way to finish the outside Clinker tiles with jointing - if you want, you can do this Shades - from light, almost white, to dark

This type of siding is more expensive, but stronger - the wall thickness is 2-3 mm, depending on the manufacturer. Some reinforce the slabs to make them more rigid: so that the finish is more durable. A guarantee is given from 25 to 50 years, the temperature range depends on the material, because these facade plates are also made of vinyl or acrylic. In any case, they add more titanium, which makes it more ductile, and therefore does not break even in cold weather. It is titanium that largely affects the price: the more it is, the more durable the polymer becomes.

When finishing, it is important to remember that polymers have different sizes at different temperatures. Therefore, when installing the sadding, it is imperative to leave gaps that compensate for these changes.

You can read about the installation of basement siding in the article "".

metal siding

This type of finishing material is made of thin metal - galvanized steel or thin aluminum. Aluminum is more durable, but also much more expensive. In the production of metal siding, a whole “pie” of protective and finishing layers is rolled onto a sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm to protect against rust, the main of which is zinc. The latter is paint or polymer coating. Polymer-coated metal siding is more expensive, but it also has a longer service life and less fading.

It is clear that metal is more durable than plastic, but only if the protective coating is not broken. Therefore, when cutting metal-based siding, you cannot use a grinder: the cut area is very hot, protective films are burned out. Subsequently, this is where corrosion begins. For the same reason, during installation, it is mounted on galvanized self-tapping screws: they are guaranteed not to scratch the coating.

Of the features - metal siding has a significant weight, therefore, when calculating the foundation, it must be taken into account. If you wanted to sheathe an old house with metal siding, this is only possible if the foundation has a margin of safety. If not, you will need to strengthen it. Another important nuance: since metal conducts heat well, the house needs to be well insulated (installed only with insulation).

fiber cement siding

This finishing material is made from a mixture of sand and cement, to which fiber is added for reinforcement. From this composition, siding or slabs are formed. The technology was invented in Japan, because this siding is also called "Japanese".

The advantages of this material include its incombustibility or low flammability if the front side is painted. This material does not react to temperature changes, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation (the material itself, not the coating), does not change its properties when it freezes. But since it consists of cement, it absorbs water, and they also have a solid weight. Therefore, if you are going to sheathe the house from the outside with fiber cement siding, its weight must also be taken into account when calculating the foundation. When developing a wall pie, care must be taken to ensure that the facade is ventilated: there must be an air gap between the cladding and the wall of the house.

This house is sheathed with fiber cement panels Brickwork is one of my favorite patterns: laying siding is much faster and the result is excellent

Another feature of this material is that the colors that you see in the photo above are the result of staining. It is applied after the plates are molded. The paint penetrates quite deeply and manufacturers guarantee paint durability for 10 years. But then it will have to be updated: take a brush or roller and paint.

WPC siding - wood-polymer composite

Woodgrain siding or WPC is made from wood flour mixed with a polymer. Not only does it look like wood, but it also smells the same. Very similar and tactile sensations. Unlike fiber cement, WPC is colored to the full depth: the pigment is added from the mass before molding. There is thermal expansion - about 3 mm per meter, the color of the racks, the strength is high - decking is made from the same material - a terrace board, so people have been trampling on it for years. She, by the way, can also sheathe the house.

Among the shortcomings of this material: a rather high price - from 850 to 2000 rubles per square meter, not a very large palette of colors, lack of additional elements and proven installation technology. The material is new, all the flaws from this. But they are forgotten when the material is seen live: it looks very attractive and is very similar to wood. In the photo gallery there are photos from cottages and houses under construction, not advertising ones. So you can appreciate the real view.

Another angle. You can see how they are attached - to the crate with a perforated tape with a thickness of at least 0.8 mm. As you can see, the walls of the WPC siding are thick. But the board was nailed on the wrong side - the owner liked the back better. And on the front - three narrow boards "under the lining" are molded

Since the material is new, there are few reviews, but those that are are positive. For example, this: "Two years have passed, the color is holding, no cracks, no deformation." Region - Moscow and Samara.

How to choose siding for your home

After you have decided on the type of siding that you will use to sheathe the house, you must not make a mistake with the manufacturer. You will need to carefully inspect the products and check the following points:

• Color uniformity. If the color is smooth, there should be no changes and extraneous inclusions either on the back or on the front.
• Uniform wall thickness. Examine several planks in profile. The thickness of the partitions must be the same. Sagging or pitting, even on the inside, is a sign of poor quality.
• Check the mounting holes. They should have smooth edges, without burrs.
• Smooth longitudinal edges of the locks, no deformation in any plane.

If everything is fine, you can buy.

DIY installation instructions

Despite the fact that siding is made from different materials, the principle of its installation is the same: on a flat surface. In some cases, it can be a flat wall, but mostly on a crate.

Procedure

Do-it-yourself siding installation begins with checking the condition of the walls. If the house is new, no special action is required. If old, everything that can subsequently collapse is removed: poorly adhering tiles, pieces of plaster. If there is an old finish that can be easily removed, it is advisable to dismantle it. Decorative elements are also removed - lamps, window and door cladding, etc., roof overhangs are disassembled. They will then be installed in place after the finishing work is completed.

After that, the installation of the siding is independently carried out in the following sequence:

Actually, all the siding of the house is completed. Some points require clarification. About them - below with photo and video explanations and instructions.

crate

For any type, you can use wooden bars 50 * 50 mm or a galvanized profile for outdoor use. For heavier materials such as fiber cement or WPC, façade system fasteners can be used. It is, of course, expensive, but it is convenient to work with it.

If the crate for siding is made of wood, the bars must be treated with bioprotective impregnations: so that fungi and mold do not multiply. The walls of a wooden or frame house are also treated with a similar composition before finishing.

The step of the crate is indicated by the manufacturer, but often it is also determined by the geometry of the house: if there are a lot of broken lines, the crate will have to be done more often. It must be installed:

According to the installation method, vinyl, acrylic and metal siding can be horizontal and vertical. Depending on the direction of laying the finishing board, the crate is stuffed in a perpendicular direction: if the boards are nailed vertically, the crate is horizontal and vice versa.

As already mentioned, as a standard for a wooden crate for siding, a bar of 50 * 50 mm is taken. But if installation with a heater is supposed, the thickness of the bar should be greater: it depends on the required thickness of the heater. In this case, the bar should be 2-3 cm wider than the insulation. This is a ventilation gap that will help maintain normal humidity in the house and in all layers of the finish.

A crate made of wood for siding does not raise questions: almost everyone knows how to work with a tree, but not everyone understands how to make a crate from profiles. Clarifications and tips on how to fix the profile of the crate to the wall - in the video.

Do-it-yourself siding installation with insulation

Traditional insulation for siding is used: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam (extruded or not), mineral wool. For wooden houses, mineral wool is most often used: at a low cost, it has good characteristics and does not prevent the removal of excess moisture from the house, and this is important if a wooden house is going to be sheathed. When siding a brick house or a house made of foam blocks, building blocks, you can also use foam plastic: the walls are not very “breathable” and the same insulation paired with them will work fine.

It is undesirable to upholster a wooden house without crates with siding. Even if the walls are flat. Condensation will form on the inner surface of the skin: the steam passes through the wooden wall, is deposited on a cooler surface. Humidity in this interval will be high: there is no ventilation gap, evaporation is poor. Conditions are created for the rapid destruction of wood.

Therefore, in any case, a crate is stuffed on a wooden surface. If the skin is with insulation, it is installed and fixed between its slats. They are laid very tightly, with effort, so that there are no cracks near the slats of the crate - cold bridges. If there is more than one layer, it is laid so that the seams of the lower row are closed by the upper one, it is possible - in different directions (see the figure).

Windproof vapor permeable membrane on top. Pay attention to this material: it depends on how long your insulation will “live”. Not a plastic film, but a membrane that does not lock water vapor inside (water vapor can escape from the insulation), while protecting it from the penetration of moisture from the outside (precipitation and condensate cannot get inside). On top of it is a counter-lattice, which will create a ventilated gap. Boards or panels are already attached to the counter-crate.

In this case, as you understand, a counter-lattice should be located perpendicular to the direction of laying the siding. Therefore, the first one is stuffed in the same direction as the sadding.

How siding is attached

The main problems with the exterior decoration of the house with siding are associated with a violation of the installation technology. Therefore, this must be taken very carefully and strictly follow the recommendations. Manufacturers may have a different set of additional elements - profiles for joining planks and openings - but the installation is the same:

There are requirements for the type and size of fasteners:

• Use of self-tapping screws or nails is allowed.
• The head of the fastener must have a size of at least 8 mm (diameter 4 mm). For self-tapping screws, it should be rounded, not flat.
• The thickness of the rod is 3 mm.

When installing metal cladding, galvanized fasteners are recommended for use: it will not damage the zinc protective coating. For other types of self-tapping screws, it is better to use white ones, not black ones: they can withstand heavy loads (for black ones, the hat often breaks when twisting).

This is true for this material of any kind: it is necessary to properly fix both vinyl, and acrylic, and metal. What violations lead to during installation, see the video.

Video installation instructions

The technology of sheathing with vinyl or acrylic siding is described in detail in this video. It is about how and in what order to install profiles, how to mount and join external and internal corners. The process of facing the window siding is described in detail.

Installation of facade siding is not much different. Unless the fact that the crate is required "in a cage." Otherwise, everything is the same: we install the screws in the center of the mounting holes, do not tighten them.

There are some small peculiarities in the joining of elements. On the back of the panels there are stops that prevent the panel from moving further. When installing siding under a stone or brick, you must not miss this moment: the stops can break with strong pressure. It is not bad told about the features of installation in the advertising and training video of the German manufacturer Docke (Docke or Deck).

For information on how a large wooden house was sheathed with vinyl siding under a stone, see the following video. This is no longer a commercial, but an experience: laying siding with your own hands was done for the first time. What happened and what feelings - look.

To carry out the lining of the building with vinyl siding, even with superficial construction skills and knowing the installation technology of this material, many will be able to. After all, it is not in vain that this method of decoration is in the lead among the rest, and not only due to its aesthetic and attractive appearance, low cost, long service life, but also ease of installation.

Siding Installation Tools

To carry out the installation work of the facing material, you will need the following inventory:

• A knife for cutting siding is used as follows: first, a strip is drawn on the panel, along which it bends and unbends several times, then breaks. You can also cut the material with a grinder, but only at low power
• Electric jigsaw
• Drill or perforator
• screwdriver
• Level
• Roulette
• Bulgarian
• A hammer
• Marker or chalk for marking

Selection and calculation of component materials

Manufacturers of vinyl siding also produce all the necessary component material for its installation:

• Corners outside and inside for facing the corners of a house with a standard length of 3 m. To calculate the required amount, the total footage along the perimeter of the corner building is measured and calculated, which is divided by 3. It is better not to use short cuts so as not to spoil the appearance of the building
• starting bar has a length of 3.8 m and is calculated by subtracting the length of the doorways from the perimeter of the house
• J-profile will be needed in places where extensions are attached to the building (length 3.8 m.)
• Plank framing windows(length 3 m), calculated by summing the perimeters of window openings
• Window sills are installed if necessary.
• Finishing bar connects the roof eaves to the house
• H-profile closes the joint slots between the siding strips, installed vertically, calculated by dividing the value of the perimeter of the building by the length of the siding panel
• The drain strip is installed under the window openings
• The platband is mounted as a lining of any openings that are flush with the walls

You will also need galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer 25-30 cm long. Their number is calculated based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls: 20 pcs per 1 m².

Accessories for vinyl siding

Calculation of the amount of siding

Two options are used:

• The area of ​​​​the walls of the house is calculated, from which the areas of all openings are subtracted. The resulting value must be divided by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone siding panel
• A drawing of the house is made and the required number of planks is calculated piece by piece. This method is more economical, since you can immediately see where the installation of the trimmings will go.

Calculation of the area of ​​​​walls for the subsequent calculation of siding

To date, the market has a large assortment of siding from different companies. One of the popular Russian companies is Grand Line. Vinyl is of high quality. This material is highly resistant to impact and UV radiation.

Nordside siding is gaining more and more popularity. Read more about Nordside siding. The material of this company has a wide range of colors. Nordside siding does not collapse, it is not affected by moisture, it does not rot, rust, paint does not fade.

Preparatory stage

The advantage of this type of material is that it does not require preliminary alignment of the walls. It is enough just to clean the surface of dirt or previous cladding, remove protruding elements (skirting boards, platbands, gutters, etc.).

If cracks are found on the surface of the walls, they are sealed with cement mortar to prevent the accumulation of moisture in the winter.

Important! Wooden walls are cleaned of mold and fungi and treated with deep penetration soil with an antiseptic.

The surface on which the facing material is installed must be absolutely dry, such a requirement is set by the siding installation technology.

Installing siding under siding

The crate is made according to the principle:

1. When laying siding horizontally, a wooden or aluminum profile is stuffed vertically
2. Wooden bars should have a cross section of 20-40 mm. A galvanized profile crate will cost 30% more, but it will turn out to be more reliable and durable.
3. The distance between the profile (bars) should be 30-40 cm. They are set under the level
4. First, the guide is stuffed on the left corner of the wall, then the carrier is horizontal from below, the next vertical is in the right corner. Additionally, all openings are tied
5. In the manufacture of the crate, the location of drains, lamps and other communications is taken into account. For this, additional guides are mounted on the crate.
6. The frame is attached to the wall with dowels (if the walls are made of brick, shell), self-tapping screws (wooden surfaces)

Carrying out measures for insulation and waterproofing

Insulation (polystyrene, mineral wool) is placed in the crate. The main thing to consider is that you need to leave space for a ventilated space between the wall surface and the facing material to prevent decay processes.

From above, the insulation is closed with a hydrobarrier, installed vertically or horizontally with an overlap of 10 cm. The waterproofer is attached to the wooden crate with a stapler. Joints can be sealed with tape.

After carrying out heat and waterproofing measures, a frame is made directly under the siding. The principle of the crate remains the same: a metal profile or wooden slats are stuffed in increments of 30-40 cm, all openings are additionally framed.

Installation instructions for vinyl siding

Installation of vinyl siding involves the following sequence:

1. Installation of corner strips
2. Attaching the start bar
3. Installing a J-profile as a siding edge trim
4. Finishing around windows
5. Siding paneling
6. Installing the finish bar

The installation of the starting bar takes place along the perimeter of the structure, it is important to carefully set it. Self-tapping screws are used in increments of 25-30 cm, and perpendicular to the surface. Fasteners are screwed strictly in the middle of the oval hole to prevent distortion of the material. The main thing is that the self-tapping screw does not enter the bar completely, that is, there is a gap of 1 mm between its cap and the siding (for convenience, you can attach a coin). A gap of 5-7 mm is required in the middle of the joining of two starting strips.

Window and door openings that are in the same plane with the wall are sheathed with a wide J-profile (platband), into which the siding is subsequently inserted.

In the case of slopes, the decoration is reduced to finishing with siding using an angular profile. Moreover, the lower slope is first lined (if there is no ebb), then - the side slopes with a shift to the center of the opening to prevent the top panel from coming out of the clutch in the winter, at the end - the top one.

When installing the siding panels, they must fit into the starting bar and snap into place. Then only the material is fixed with hardware. The fastening of the facing material takes place under constant level control. For convenience, you can pull the rope.

The finishing bar is attached at the top under the roof itself, further from it the value is measured to the last siding panel. The fitted strip is bent in an arc and wound under the finish panel.

vinyl siding installation cost

? The cost of installation work on facing siding depends on the following factors:

• Prices for raw materials, including the manufacture of lathing, insulation, waterproofing, type of fasteners
• Number of door and window openings
• Depending on the material of the building (brick, wood)
• With or without insulation

Vinyl siding video

Vinyl siding technology.

Installation of vinyl siding. Installation of vertical and horizontal siding, soffit installation.

How to install vinyl siding yourself.

Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some of the nuances of installation. If you decide to choose vinyl siding as a facing material, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is flexible and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of panel damage and injury. A step-by-step guide will allow you to sheathe the facade of the house with siding, even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note that these instructions are for installing vinyl siding, which is different from metal siding.

• Knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut.

• Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

• Drill or perforator. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

• Screwdriver. For screwing fasteners.
• Building level. The laser is very easy to use.
• Roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.

1. When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at a temperature below -10 ° C (which is generally unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.


2. There must also be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.


3. Vinyl siding should rest at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperature before installation begins.


4. Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

1. fixing the starting bar;
2. installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
3. installation of siding panels;
4. framing window and door openings with siding;
5. installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
6. arrangement of protruding elements;
7. fastening of finishing strips;
8. soffit installation;
9. pediment lining.

Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, additional protection of the surface or insulation from moisture is achieved.

1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.

The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even the smallest slope during the installation work.

Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening.

To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.

Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension using the building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will indicate the line of attachment of the starting strip.

The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.

However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.

After that fix the bar.

How to attach vinyl siding to a wall

When installing vinyl elements, fasteners must be properly carried out. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.

It is necessary to twist the hardware or hammer in a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The correct way is shown in the figure. - the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw.

The desired gap is achieved in two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood.

The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material.

Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner. Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately installing the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the planks

The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that ordinary panels are wound up.

Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:

First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.

Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.

The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.

Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated. It will look as shown in the picture.

Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding

The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.

Mount the bottom bar of the corner, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.

The overlap is 20-25 mm.

The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

• The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
• The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim blunt and sharp corners of a building.

For an obtuse angle, the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one, narrowed.

For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.

Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. H-profile installation

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.

• the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
• if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
• overlap profiles.

Keep in mind, the starter strips must be adjacent to the H-connector, and not vice versa.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can finish one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the angled or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.

Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In the event that you use a budget mounting option, you can equip the inner panel in the ways shown in the figure.

Don't forget to leave room for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the initial bar and snapped into place. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.

3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels together, and you did not provide an H-profile or you do not like how it looks, you can do it as follows.

• First, remove the interlock from the panel.
• Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
• Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows what it looks like in practice.

Note:

• Some manufacturers produce panels without locking on the end of the siding sheet.
• Panels at the joints are not sealed.
• The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.

• in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.


• with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.

In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo.

Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile.

The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding.

Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed.

Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and fastening it with an overlap.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.

Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.

The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With wind bar

If the frontal board is small, it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.

Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.

In this case, the outer corner is attached to the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the desired size is cut out and wound up between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.

Similarly, the finishing on the second side.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.

9. Mounting the gable with siding

Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. It is not visible under the roofing material anyway.

This work is done as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap.

9.5. Plank preparation.

In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple trick: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.

The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above.

Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instruction

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.