Planting transplant reproduction actinidia. Actinidia: origin, description, planting rules and breeding methods

Growing vines in a garden plot is designed for a long time - actinidia can bloom and bear fruit stably for about 30 years. But this plant needs a long-term and reliable support. It is undesirable to plant creepers under large trees, as they will take away moisture and light from the creeper. Scientists have found, for example, that an actinidia seedling does not tolerate a closely growing apple tree, but grows well with currants. It is also impossible to plant it in the place where actinidia grew, it is not worth digging the soil around the vines deeply, only shallow loosening is permissible. For this reason, this plant is not planted close to fruit trees, around which the soil is dug up every year in the near-stem circle. In the garden, it is necessary to allocate a special place for vines - next to the house or near the hedge, giving her the opportunity to trudge along a suitable support - trellises or ladders from which there is even no need to remove actinidia for the winter.

Soil for planting actinidia

Any soil is suitable for this plant, except for clay and waterlogged soils. The main thing that is necessary for this culture is natural and reliable drainage, and for this, vines are best planted in elevated places, on gentle slopes with good water flow. Actinidia seedlings grow very well, and for this reason, it needs slightly acidic, organic-rich soil. Liana does not tolerate lime, for this reason, liming the soil cannot be done before planting it. The roots of the plant are in the upper soil layer and in nature are located directly under the lush forest floor, under which moisture is retained for a long time. In addition to lime, potassium chloride cannot be applied under actinidia.

Planting creepers

Actinidia should be planted in early spring, plants in the garden are planted at 2-3 years of age. In a trench or pit prepared for planting, a drainage layer is first laid - small stones, broken bricks, pebbles. It is impossible to use building gravel for this, for the reason that it contains lime. 8-10 kg of organic fertilizers and a mixture of mineral fertilizers are added to the pit; chlorine-containing fertilizers cannot be used to fertilize actinidia seedlings. First of all, earth is poured onto the drainage, after that a mixture of earth, sand and fertilizers. A seedling is planted on the formed mound, without covering the root neck with soil. After this, the plant must be well watered and the soil mulched with compost, peat or humus. Between planted plants there should be a distance of at least 2 m.

plant care

Actinidia care consists in fine loosening of the soil, periodic fertilizing, watering and weeding. Liana loves airborne moisture, for this reason, in hot and dry weather, it will be great to spray it in the morning and evening hours with clean water. Form a plant, starting from the age of two years, best of all in the form of a stemless multi-sleeve fan. There is no need to remove actinidia from the trellis and cover it for the winter, you need to remember that the plant cannot be cut in the spring, even minor damage during sap flow significantly weakens the vine and can even destroy it. Young actinidia seedlings must be protected from cats, they eat buds and bark on them, more often for this purpose, a metal mesh is installed around the bush. Each plant has its own drawbacks, actinidia has only three of them: instability to frosts in late spring, which damage flowers and young shoots, non-simultaneous ripening and rapid shedding of the crop.

Winter hardiness actinidia

The most frost-resistant - a. kolomikta, even in severe frosts, the plant is practically not damaged, in a. arguta and a. polygam, some of the shoots that have not matured since autumn can be damaged.

Relic liana grows in Southeast Asia.

On the territory of Russia, its habitat is the Far East.

The actinidia plant has recently become a popular garden crop.

It is not surprising, because green fruits resemble kiwi in taste and shape.

Most varieties have perfectly adapted to the cold of central Russia.

With proper care, the vine bears abundant fruit every summer.

The culture is dioecious. On some specimens, she has only female flowers, and on others, only male ones.

For the formation of fruits, it is required that pollen from male plants falls on female ones.

Determine the sex of actinidia easy, just look at the vine during the flowering period. The male flowers lack a pistil, but have many stamens. The female flowers have a large pistil, while the stamens, on the contrary, are small.

These individuals are 95% sterile. Sex does not change throughout life.

Pollen is carried from one plant to another by beneficial insects and the wind. In autumn, the male actinidia changes the color of the foliage from dark green to red.

Female individuals do not have such properties.

For four female actinidia, it is necessary to plant one male of the same species.

To date, actinidia self-fertile has been bred.

However, its yield is significantly lower than dioecious vines.

Types and varieties of actinidia with photos and names

The most famous actinidia is the kiwi. This species does not tolerate cold weather, therefore it is not grown in Russian household plots.

The most winter-hardy plant is actinidia kolomikta. This species is suitable for beginner gardeners.

Berries are valued for their delicate structure and high content of vitamin C. Some varieties have a pineapple flavor.

Kolomikta is suitable for decorative vertical gardening. White spots form on the leaves of adult male plants in summer.

Varieties of this species have received the widest distribution. Most actinidia are suitable for planting in the Moscow region.

Argut species grows fastest of all. Its fruits are much larger than those of other species. Plant height can reach 20 m, so it needs support.

The leaves are not decorative. Hybrid forms retain the green color of the fruit even after processing.

Actinidia arguta has a late growing season, so the upper part of the vine may freeze slightly. For this reason, the species is poorly distributed in Russia.

Actinidia Giralda is considered a subspecies of argut. It is listed in the Red Book as an endangered species.

The plant is famous for its winter hardiness and high quality of berries. The weight of one can be 25 g.

Fruiting occurs in mid-September. From one plant you can harvest 5 kg of crop. For the winter, actinidia is not removed from the supports.

It differs from other types of actinidia polygamum. At home, the Far East, it is called pepper. Yellow berries have a pungent taste.

The males have beautiful silvery foliage. Flowers are also valuable, they have a jasmine aroma.

The height of the plant is 5 m. The crop ripens at the end of September, the unripe fruits are very bitter.

Actinidia hybrida and actinidia purpurea are subspecies of argut.

These are the most heat-loving types of actinidia, which can freeze without shelter.

Ripe berries of hybrid actinidia are lilac in color, their flesh is light. Most varieties are fast growing.

Liana cultivation began at the beginning of the last century. Modern breeders have created varieties with fruits that have apple, banana, fig and grape flavors.

Ella Ioganovna Kolbasina played a special role in popularizing the fruitful vine. The Doctor of Science has bred more than thirty varieties based on the types of argut and kolomikt.

To date, there are more than a hundred varieties and hybrid forms. They are subject to high demands.

Winter hardiness is possessed by vines of the Far Eastern and Siberian selection. European forms are less hardy.

The best varieties of actinidia:

1. Yellow spindle. The plant is a polygamous species. Fast growing female vine resistant to frost and disease. Fruiting begins in early September. Berries of a conical shape resemble sweet peppers in taste. From one bush you can harvest 10 kg of crop.
2. Gourmand. Actinidia species kolomikta. Liana has a decorative value: its foliage changes color several times during the summer. Large green berries are harvested in mid-September. They have a soft texture and a sweet taste. The bushes are winter-hardy, the vines are not afraid of pest attacks.
3. Doctor Shimanovsky. Female self-pollinating cultivar of the kolomikta species. Foliage changes color from green to pink in mid-summer. The fruits ripen in August, they have a sweet and sour taste reminiscent of strawberries. The variety is not susceptible to diseases and freezing.
4. Kyiv hybrid. Argut actinidia reaches eight meters. In warm regions, berries begin to sing in the first decade of September. The weight of one fruit is up to 18 g. 10 kg of crop can be harvested from one bush. The plant is cold-resistant and shade-tolerant.
5. Kolomikta pineapple. Actinidia belongs to the old varieties that were actively bred in the thirties of the last century. In June, the foliage gradually turns white from the bottom, the upper part remains green. The fruits ripen at the end of August.
6. Sweet. Actinidia is widely used to create green arbors. Liana gives a good harvest, small berries are painted green. The first berries ripen at the end of August. The plant is cold and disease resistant.
7. Issai. Self-fertile actinidia of Japanese selection. The height of the bush reaches 9 m. The berries are 4 cm in diameter, they have a delicate texture and a sweet taste. One bush gives 15 kg of crop. The variety tolerates frosts down to -25˚C.

The fruits of all varietal plants contain vitamins, minerals and trace elements.

Reproduction of actinidia cuttings

With the help of reproduction, you can get new female and male individuals that will retain all the characteristics of the variety.

Growing actinidia from seeds is a troublesome business.

Young creepers grow slowly and begin to bear fruit a few years later than plants obtained by vegetative methods.

Green cuttings

Annual cuttings are cut in June. The shoot should have 2 buds and 3 internodes.

The lower petioles and leaves are cut off, the upper leaf is cut in half.

Cuttings are planted in a nutrient mixture consisting of peat, sod and humus. From above, the earth is sprinkled with river sand.

It is advisable to transfer the container to a greenhouse, the humidity of the air should be at least 80%. Roots appear by the end of the third week.

Actinidia can be transplanted to a permanent place from the second year of life. Females have a higher survival rate.

lignified cuttings

This method is less laborious, but lignified cuttings take root worse.

Shoots 70 cm long are cut in late autumn, after the sap flow has stopped.

Sections of the cuttings are dipped in paraffin, and then placed in a wooden box lined with moss.

In winter, boxes are stored in a dark and cool room.

With the onset of warm weather, the shoots are cut, kept in a growth stimulator and planted in a garden bed at an angle of 45˚.

The soil must remain moist. For the winter, the plants are covered with agrotex.

Reproduction by layering

In spring, the soil near the liana is fertilized, dug up and small grooves are made. For reproduction, annual shoots with strong growth are used.

They are laid in grooves and carefully pinned. Soil is poured on top so that only the top of the shoot remains above the surface.

Throughout the summer, the soil around the bush should remain moist. In mid-September, the layers are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a permanent place.

Landing in open ground

Liana can hardly be called a capricious plant. With proper planting and care, actinidia will live for more than forty years.

Modern delicacy varieties bear fruit annually in the temperate zone.

The type of kolomikta and its varieties are considered a win-win option. They bear fruit abundantly both in the European part and in Siberia and the Far East.

Place and dates of landing

Liana will give a high yield in open areas, illuminated by the sun for 6 hours a day.

Young plants are planted in the spring, before the start of sap flow, while the buds are sleeping.

Actinidia dioecious can be planted in autumn.

It is important that at least three weeks remain before the onset of frost.

Liana can die in a cold and snowy winter, so autumn planting should be practiced exclusively in the southern regions.

Good predecessors and neighbors

It is better to plant actinidia in the place where currants, linden and hazel used to grow. Annual flowers are also planted next to the liana.

Priming

The plant develops well on sandy and sandy soils.

Heavy lands are enriched with peat and sand.

If the soil in the area is acidic, it is necessary to add dolomite flour six months before planting.

The depth of the landing pit should be at least 50 cm. Crushed stone or broken bricks are poured into its bottom, which will act as drainage.

Planting actinidia is impossible without a layer of nutrient soil mixed with mineral fertilizers.

After placing the seedling, the planting pit is covered with a nutrient substrate, rammed and mulched.

Support preparation

Actinidia vines grow rapidly. For successful fruiting, it is necessary to prepare a support in the first year after planting. The simplest and most convenient solution is wooden trellises.

It is important that the stems do not get tangled on the support, this will lead to a reduction in yield. Liana will entangle the picket fence, metal mesh and wire frame.

Liana can live 40 years, so she needs a strong support, preferably from metal pipes.

How to care for Actinidia outdoors

Actinidia seedlings begin to bear fruit in the fifth year after planting. For the active growth of a young plant, shading is necessary.

An adult liana feels great under the rays of the sun. Moist soil, fertilizer, and proper pruning are key to healthy growth.

Watering and loosening

In the first year of life, vines are periodically shed from a sprinkler. The soil itself must be constantly moist.

However, excess water will cause root rot. Mature bushes need watering only during dry periods. Once a week, a bucket of water is brought under the plant.

Only young plants need loosening, earth crust and weeds inhibit their development. The culture has a superficial location of the roots: drought, intensive loosening can damage them.

The danger lies in the fact that the roots do not recover in the year of damage. In females, the root system grows faster.

top dressing

It is impossible to grow actinidia without fertilizers. To activate the vital processes, the liana needs organic substances.

In early April, when the buds open, rotted manure is laid out under the bushes in a thin layer.

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied twice during the summer.

The first time the vine is fed during the budding period. After the appearance of fruits, the bushes are shed again.

pruning

Pruning actinidia has several goals at once. It eliminates the excessive density of the crown, activates the growth of new shoots, increases the volume of the crop and gives the bush the desired shape.

You can not prune in March, otherwise the branches will "cry".

Bushes are convenient to form during flowering.

The best option is to prune actinidia in the fall. Dried, diseased and sagging branches are subject to removal.

Fruiting branches for several years are replaced by young shoots. Argutu is thinned out more intensively than other species, as it bears fruit on shortened shoots. After autumn pruning, actinidia is covered for the winter.

Wintering

The kolomikta type is the most widespread on the territory of Russia. These plants do not need shelter. Moreover, the vines wrapped up for the winter can get wet.

Kolomikta is not removed from the trellis. Other species are covered in the same way as grapes.

Before frost, the branches are removed from the supports and wrapped with spunbond, folded in two layers. With the onset of persistent frosts, they are additionally covered with plastic wrap.

Diseases and pests

Plants rarely get sick. Most often, the liana is affected by gray rot, the spores of which are transferred from infected annual crops.

The spread of the infection is facilitated by warm and humid weather.

Landings must be sprayed with copper-containing preparations:

• "Ordan"
• "Khomom"
• Bordeaux liquid.

A dangerous enemy is the leaf beetle, which eats leaves and buds. The caterpillars of the raisin moth leaves huge holes in the leaves.

It is necessary to remove insects in a timely manner and spray plantings with Karate, Decis or Aktellik insecticides.

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We are used to seeing familiar and well-known fruit trees in our garden plots, such as: apple, pear, plum, cherry and apricot. If there is a desire to taste, then we prefer to go to the market for it. But not many people know that thanks to the work of breeders, some exotic fruits can be grown in our gardens for a long time. For example, the same actinidia, which is a close relative of the familiar kiwi!

Actinidia - what is it?

The actinidia plant is a very interesting shrub liana with abundant annual fruiting. This is a wonderful medicinal, ornamental and fruit plant. Actinidia is native to China. In the 1950s, Australian and New Zealand scientific expeditions discovered a vine with rather large edible fruits in the southeastern part of China. The most common variety is Chinese Actinidia (delicacy) - kiwi. On the territory of the CIS, actinidia grows wild in the Primorsky Territory in the Far East. On their basis, many high-vitamin varieties have been created, among which there are many winter-hardy ones that are not difficult to grow in our conditions. Actinidia blooms in early June. Its berries are large, one-dimensional, with an average weight of 13-18 g. The fruits ripen gradually, depending on the variety, in August-September. Leaves fall during September-October. Unfortunately, our gardeners have not deservedly deprived actinidia of their attention. Once you try to grow this crop in your garden, you will definitely appreciate it.

5 pleasant surprises from actinidia:

1. Actinidia have tasty, juicy, sweet and sour fruits, with a delicate aroma of pineapple, rich in vitamins and minerals. In terms of vitamin C content, actinidia is superior to blackcurrant and citrus fruits.
2. The dignity of actinidia is not only in the fruits, but also in the high decorativeness of the plant itself. All types of actinidia are great for vertical gardening. They will serve as a good decoration of the fence, gazebos, walls of the house.
3. Actinidia gives an average of 20 kg of delicious, tender berries from a bush.
4. Varieties of actinidia begin to bear fruit in the 3-4th year after planting, the productive period lasts 20 years or more.
5. Actinidia creepers are beautiful at any time of the year. In the spring they attract with bright young foliage, and during the flowering period - with aroma. By mid-August, actinidia kolomikta leaves become reddish-brown. Mature arguta plants form a vibrant, satiny iridescent dark green wall during the summer, turning bright yellow in the fall.

I hope that after the listed benefits of this berry, you can't wait to see it in your home, so I'll quickly move on to the instructions for growing actinidia.

actinidia on the veranda

How to plant actinidia?

How to choose actinidia seedlings:

• Seedlings should be purchased only with a covered root system, since in actinidia it is very vulnerable. Plants with bare roots should not be left exposed to wind or heat.
• Seedlings must be no older than three years.
• Actinidia is a dioecious plant, therefore, to obtain a crop, it is necessary to plant one male on several female plants. So, when growing 5 female plants for normal pollination, it is enough to plant 1 male. It should be borne in mind that the pollination of actinidia kolomikta, argut and polygam occurs only by plants of their own species. Mutual cross-pollination is possible only between male and female plants of actinidia arguta, giralda and purple.

Where to plant actinidia:

• Since actinidia is a climbing plant, it is necessary to prepare supports in advance on which it will grow in a vertical plane. It can be placed on trellises around the perimeter of the garden and along the walls of the house or other outbuildings, such as arbors and hedges.
• Near the wall of a residential building, actinidia tolerates harsh winters better and rarely freezes during frosts in late spring and early summer. However, you should not plant plants under the drain, so as not to damage the young plants. In addition, actinidia does not like stagnant water.
• Under natural conditions, actinidia grow in the openwork penumbra of sparse forests, so it is advisable to choose a place with similar conditions. Actinidia can grow well and bear fruit in partial shade. When landing, avoid open sunny places.

Soil for actinidia. Actinidia is undemanding to soil fertility. In nature, it grows normally on lands with a low content of nitrogen and phosphorus. However, alkaline soils are not suitable for it. Slightly acidic and acidic are optimal, although neutral ones are also acceptable. Therefore, before planting actinidia, the soil is not limed. Otherwise, the vines will suffer, develop worse and may even die. Also undesirable are heavy, clay soils with a close standing of groundwater.

Landing actinidia:

• It is best to plant in the spring, but you can also plant in the fall, 2-3 weeks before the first frost.
• It is necessary to prepare landing pits measuring 60x60 cm. Put drainage at the bottom. It can be a layer (10-15 cm) of broken red brick, expanded clay or crushed stone, pebbles. In each pit, add rich soil, 10 kg of humus and 150 g of superphosphate, 2-3 tbsp. wood ash. Fresh manure and lime should not be added to the planting pit. Very good results are obtained by the use of long-acting organomineral fertilizer "OMU Universal". Adding it to the soil significantly improves plant survival and growth. When applying 100 g of this fertilizer per planting hole, no further fertilizing is required during the season, in addition, the fertilizer retains soil moisture.
• When the ground settles, start landing. In order to avoid burning the tender young roots, a layer of earth is poured without fertilizers, a mound is made and a seedling is placed on it, without destroying the clod of earth around its root system.
• The distance between plants in a row is 1.5-2.5 m.
• Along the actinidia plantings, you can also create a bright mixborder of annuals: asters, petunias, verbena, ageratum, mattiola, calendula and other plants that are quite powerful, but do not dry out the soil.
• After planting, actinidia is watered (2-3 buckets per plant), the soil is carefully compacted so that the root neck is not buried, but is at ground level. They do not make a hole around so that rainwater does not accumulate there. Then mulch with compost, peat or rotted sawdust. A good result is obtained by mulching with large pine bark, which is covered with a layer of 5-7 cm. For the time that the plants take root (5-10 days), they are covered from direct sunlight with a light cloth or paper.
• Immediately after planting, it is necessary to install supports for plants.

Actinidia care includes watering, fertilizing, garter, pruning. But I will talk about this in the following articles about this delicious berry. The only thing I would like to mention repeatedly is the universality of actinidia for both culinary and medicinal purposes. Fruits can be consumed fresh, dried, boiled compotes, make juices.

refreshing taste of summer

jam rich in vitamin C

How to prepare kiwi?

1. Dried actinidia. Dry at a temperature of about 60 degrees in the oven, then put in a box. Dry berries are very similar to raisins. They retain all their beneficial properties and vitamins.
2. Actinidia mashed with sugar. Fresh, well-ripened fruits are thoroughly ground with sugar (1 kg of sugar per 1 kg of berries). Even better (for storage) put 2 kg of sugar and add 2-3 g of citric acid. Put in sterile jars, close with lids. Stored in a refrigerator or basement. One teaspoon of this product will provide the daily requirement for vitamin C.
3. Kiwi juice. Juice is made using a juicer, pasteurized for 15 minutes, poured into sterile dishes and corked. Store in a cool place.
4. kini jam. Slightly unripe and ripe berries are blanched with boiling water, put in an enamel container and poured with boiling syrup (150 g of water per 1 kg of sugar). Boil over low heat for 5 minutes. Since, despite the sufficient content of organic acids in fruits, acidity is weakly expressed in processed products, it is recommended to add citric acid (to taste). Remove from heat and after 5-6 hours lay out in sterile jars and cork.
5. Compote. Clean jars are filled 2/3 with berries, poured with boiling water. After 10 minutes, the water is drained, sugar syrup is prepared from it. Then the berries are poured with hot syrup, the jars are rolled up with lids, turned over and covered with something warm.

To be honest, I still do not understand why our markets do not have this magnificent tasty fruit? Perhaps this "actinidia boom" is yet to come! But friends and acquaintances continue to come to visit me to enjoy this exotic fruit. Although for me, actinidia has been holding the status of an ordinary fruit tree in my garden for several years, along with apple trees, plums, etc. And I advise you to still try to diversify your garden, with something like my actinidia! I'm sure you won't regret it. I will definitely share care tips in the following articles, as well as reveal some secrets on the use of this delicious fruit for medicinal purposes. © "GreenMarket", in case of full or partial copying of the material, a link to the source is required.

Actinidia self-fertile is quite an interesting ornamental plant. Its fruits are extremely beneficial for human health, tasty and fragrant. Growing and caring for the plant is easy. In addition, actinidia gives high and stable annual yields. Fruits differ in marketability and remarkable transportability, can be stored for a long time in a cool place. Detailed information on growing actinidia and keeping it at home is provided below.

Description of actinidia self-fertile

The above plant has several names. This is holly actinidia, and self-fertile actinidia, and kiwi, and pineapple atinidia. The plant is, first of all, a spectacular tree-like vine, which is characterized by a beautiful decorative appearance and edible fruits. The latter are distinguished by an extremely high content of useful trace elements and vitamins.

This plant is characterized by a stable, high yield, sufficient frost resistance, unpretentiousness to growing conditions, resistance to diseases and pests.

It should be noted that self-fertile actinidia does not require a male plant: it is well pollinated by itself. It begins to bear fruit already 4 years after planting. From one bush you can get up to 9 kg of berries.

Actinidia fruits can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 months, but it is imperative to observe a strict temperature range for this: from 0 to 2 degrees Celsius.

Features of actinidia

The above plant has the following characteristics:

• has a height of up to 25 m (variety of argut), up to 6 m (type of kolomikta);
• trunk with a diameter of up to 5 cm;
• high intensity of growth of plant shoots (up to 2 m per season);
• with skeletal roots;
• the maximum sub-zero temperature that the actinidia plant can withstand is -30 degrees Celsius;
• kiwi fruit that has come into fruition is more frost-resistant than non-bearing ones;
• mid-August - fruit ripening period;
• the fruits of the plant are distinguished by a round or oblong shape, from light to dark green in color;
• the taste of fruits - from sweet and sour to fresh-sweet;
• photophilous plant;
• culture loves moisture, but an excessive amount does not tolerate it;
• spring pruning is strongly discouraged.

It should be noted that the actinidia plant can grow and bear fruit well for about 30 years.

Useful properties of actinidia

The fruits of the above plant are extremely beneficial for the human body. In their composition they contain:

• carotene, niacin, ascorbic acid, vitamin B5;
• polyphenols;
• minerals: salts of potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus;
• dry matter;
• organic acids;
• pectins.

It should be noted that the fruits of this plant contain 5 times more vitamin C than black currants and 10 times more than citrus fruits.

These fruits significantly strengthen the immune system of hypertensive patients, people with diabetes, the elderly and children. Kiwi fruits are especially useful for patients who have vision problems.

Types of self-fertile actinidia

Perennial tree vines have about 30 plant species in the genus. All varieties of actinidia are distinguished by high annual fruitfulness and a beautiful decorative appearance. On the territory of Russia, the following types of the above plant are known:

1. Argut:

• hybrid;
• Kyiv large-fruited;
• curly;
• September;
• Actinidia Arguta is self-fertile.

2. Interspecies:

• Giralda;
• Polygam.

3. Kolomiktovye:

• Pineapple;
• Clara Zetkin;
• Self-fertile actinidia Kolomikta;
• Victory.

Pollination of this plant occurs with the help of wind or insects. Interestingly, this process can be carried out at fairly large distances: up to half a kilometer. For example, some species of kolomiktsy and interspecific pollinators independently. In this case, the yield is small.

In one place, tree vines can grow for more than 70 years.

The yield of the vine depends on its type. Argut give the largest number of fruits - up to 250 kg, kolomiktovye - only up to 3 kg. The weight of the fruits themselves also differs: for example, polygamous ones have fruits weighing 6 grams.

Recently, in America, breeders have bred a new variety of actinidia called Kiwi. So it is capable of producing fruits weighing up to 330 grams.

As for the harvest, the Giralda variety and all colomict fruits are harvested at the end of August, the rest - until mid-September. Although, if you want more sugars to accumulate in fruits, shoot kiwi closer to frost.

If the crop was harvested at sub-zero temperatures, it will not be stored in the refrigerator for a long time.

Reproduction of actinidia

The above plant is propagated by both cuttings and seeds. Stratification of the seed is carried out for 2 months. Before this process, the seeds are steamed. Then they are mixed with sand and lightly moistened. After that, the seeds are wrapped in a cloth and placed in a refrigerator, where a temperature of about +5 should be maintained. It is recommended that they be aired daily for fifteen minutes at room temperature.

After the above stratification process, the seeds are planted in light soil, which is pre-steamed. Seedlings appear early enough: after two weeks. During the first year they grow slowly. But it is not recommended to feed them with anything.

Young seedlings of actinidia in the first winter are best kept in a cool place. It is advisable to plant only in early spring.

If actinidia is propagated by cuttings, then it is recommended to cut them with two or three buds. Also leave one upper shortened leaflet. Cuttings are recommended to put for a day in a glass of distilled water. Only after that they can be planted in a container with a substrate. As the latter, you can safely use peat or sand. Important: do not fill the kidney with a leaf substrate! After planting the cuttings, they need to be watered and covered with a film.

In order for the cuttings to take root well, it is necessary to provide them with a temperature regime (+18 degrees Celsius), humidity above the average and access to sunlight. Once a day, it is recommended to spray the cuttings with a spray bottle.

Seedlings grown from cuttings will begin to bear fruit in two to three years.

Soil for the above plant

Actinidia seedlings prefer a variety of soils, with the exception of floating clay soils, near which groundwater is located. Breeders recommend making good drainage for the plant. Therefore, tree-like vines are best placed on slopes with water flow, elevated areas. This will prevent stagnation of water in the roots of the plant.

It should be noted that it is strictly forbidden to plant actinidia after actinidia. An undesirable neighbor for the above plant is an apple tree. It is better to plant actinidia near blackcurrant.

In no case is it allowed to dig the soil around the tree vine. The maximum that can be done is to carry out fine loosening.

Self-fertile actinidia: planting and care

Plants are planted in spring to a depth of 70 cm. Gardeners advise adding a little fertilizer to each hole: about 10 kg of ordinary humus and 100 grams of superphosphate. It should be noted that actinidia is planted in early spring.

At the very bottom of the pit, you first need to place drainage, which can be stones, expanded clay or broken bricks.

Plants are planted at a distance of up to 2.5 m. Before planting a tree-like vine, its roots are moistened in a clay mash.

Actinidia care is as follows:

1. Before flowering, a tree-like vine is fertilized with phosphorus.
2. In autumn, actinidia is fed with humus, potassium salt, superphosphate and ammonium nitrate.
3. For a plant, it is useful to mulch the soil with humus, sawdust or peat with a layer of 12 cm.
4. In addition, actinidia is covered for the winter to prevent freezing of young plants.

The above plant is unpretentious, but still requires some attention. Tree liana prefers to grow in the sun, although it also feels good in the shade.

1. It is important to build supports for the plant.
2. Provide her with additional watering in hot weather.
3. During the fruiting period, the soil around the tree-like vine is kept under black fallow.

Pruning a self-fertile actinidia

This action cannot be performed:

• in early spring;
• during the period of intensive sap flow (due to the loss of juice, the plant becomes weak);
• at the end of summer (may cause awakening of the kidneys on the shoots of the current year).

The ideal time for pruning is the period after the flowering of the plant. Actinidia pruning is also carried out in late autumn. At this time, you can thin out the plants, cut out weakened branches, remove frozen tips on the shoots.

Pests and diseases of actinidia

The above plant is highly resistant to various diseases. Breeders note the following diseases that can affect actinidia:

• leaflet phyllosticosis (brown spots);
• on berries.

It should be noted that in order to combat the above infections, the affected fruits and leaves are collected and destroyed.

A dangerous pest for actinidia are cats that like to gnaw out young shoots and dig up the roots of the plant. Therefore, it is important to enclose a woody vine with a wire mesh, and cover the top.

Calendar of works for the care of the above plant

In order for the plant to grow intensively and bear fruit well enough, it is important to carry out the necessary work on the care and maintenance of actinidia in time:

1. In April, shelters are removed from young tree-like vines. This is the time when actinidia is planted.
2. In May, gardeners are advised to feed the tree vine with organic fertilizers. Also this month it is recommended to loosen, weed the soil around the actinidia. If the weather is too dry in May, gardeners are advised to water the plant and mulch the soil.
3. In June, it is desirable to ensure that the plant receives the required amount of moisture. It is also important to loosen and weed the soil a little. At this time, the cutting of green cuttings is also carried out.
4. In July, in addition to weeding, loosening and watering, it is important to tie up the plant. It is also necessary to remove excess shoots.
5. The harvest is in August. After harvesting the fruits, it is recommended to feed the plant with minerals and organic fertilizers.
6. The harvest is also in September.
7. In October and November, pruning of actinidia is carried out, which is carried out to form a bush. Although the above plant is also highly frost-resistant, it is still important to have time to cover young tree-like vines for the winter to sub-zero temperatures.

Do you know that:

• in terms of the content of ascorbic acid, only wild rose can compete with the fruits of the above plant;
• 1 or 2 actinidia berries provide the body with a daily requirement for vitamin C;
• about 700 berries of the above plant cover the annual need for ascorbic acid for a person;
• for a family of 4, it is enough to have only one tree liana bush to provide each of its members with an annual norm in vitamin C.

How is actinidia used?

The fruits of the above plant are actively used in cooking. They are also prepared for the winter: they canned and dried.

Jam is prepared from the fruits of actinidia, juice is squeezed out, and cocktails are made. The above fruits are also used to decorate cakes and other sweets, to make desserts.

Dried actinidia or sultanas are especially popular, which resembles in their appearance

When preserving actinidia fruits, experts recommend adding citric acid, since already processed they have a taste with mild acidity.

Actinidia is self-fertile - a plant that can not only decorate a personal plot, but also give extremely tasty and healthy fruits. This is just a godsend for an enterprising summer resident.

The actinidia genus belongs to the actinidia family and is a lignified deciduous vine. The foliage of the plant is the main reason for its cultivation: it has an interesting variegated color. The flowers, usually white in color, form groups of 3, in most species they are odorless, but some Actinidia have a pleasant smell.

Since actinidia is a dioecious flower, two plants of different sexes are needed for its reproduction. You can understand what gender your flower is by examining it - females have a large pistil in the middle of the flower, while males do not. Actinidia bears fruits that are suitable for eating.

Varieties and types

Among the many species of this plant, three are cultivated. stand separately interspecific actinidia , polygamous and hybrids .

In the wild, it grows to a huge size of a couple of tens of meters. At home, it is much smaller. It has oval, pointed foliage, white, pleasantly smelling flowers. The fruits are edible but have mild laxative properties.

The most popular varieties: Actinidia self fertile , seaside , large-fruited .

Better than all other species tolerates winter cold. The foliage is round, variegated, in the course of development it changes color. Flowers in males are combined into inflorescences, while in females they are single.

Varieties: pineapple , Doctor Shimanovsky , Gourmand .

Reminds me of a Kolomikt. The foliage is oval, oblong, covered with white spots. Sometimes there are hermaphrodite individuals with bisexual flowers.

Varieties: apricot , gorgeous , patterned .

Grows well and develops in the shade. Rarely grown in our country due to poor susceptibility to frost.

Appeared by crossing actinidia arguta with actinidia purpurea. Thanks to this process, varieties were created that bear fruit well and are resistant to cold.

Varieties: Kyiv large-fruited , candy , souvenir .

Actinidia planting and care in the open field

Actinidia should be planted at the beginning of the spring or autumn periods. Since this plant lives for a very long time, it needs to choose the right place to grow. This creeper grows well in the shade, but its fruits can only ripen in full sun. Therefore, you need to select a site that will be illuminated until noon, and during the midday heat be in the shade.

It is impossible to plant actinidia next to apple trees, since such a neighborhood has a bad effect on it. This plant does not grow well in clay soil. For her, you need to select loose soil with good drainage, it is also impossible for it to be alkaline.

It is best to plant actinidia on a hill or slope, otherwise the roots of the plant will rot due to stagnant fluid.

Planting in the spring should be done before the juices start to move. Individuals should be planted no less than a meter apart. If landing is carried out near the wall, then specimens can be placed at a distance of 50 cm.

Before planting, the roots of the plant are inspected and cleaned of rot and dried parts. Then they are placed in a clay mash.

Planting actinidia

15 days before planting, you need to prepare the site. Half-meter holes are dug, drainage is placed in them (any, except for materials that have lime in them, since it extinguishes the soil). Next, the hole is filled with soil mixed with peat and mineral supplements (120 grams of ammonium nitrate, 250 grams of superphosphate and 35 grams of wood ash).

In this case, you can not use fertilizing with chlorine. After two weeks, the soil will settle, and you will need to pour soil on top without fertilizer. Now you can plant actinidia; it is placed so that the root neck is at the level of the top of the soil, and then the roots are covered so that the hole becomes full.

After planting the plants, they are watered, and the site is covered with 4 cm of peat mulch. It is also advisable to make a fence so that cats do not get to the planting, as the smell of actinidia attracts them.

In autumn, the flower is planted 15-20 days before the arrival of frost. For planting at this time there is a condition - you can plant only young plants, not older than three years. Anemones can be safely planted near houses and arbors, as they do not have aerial roots.

If you do not make supports for the vines, then they will get mixed up and it will be difficult to look after them, as well as the number of fruits will decrease. As the plant grows and develops, it will need to be tied to a support so that it curls further.

It is better to water actinidia by spraying, doing it in the morning and in the evening. Around the plants, you need to loosen the soil shallowly and destroy the weeds.

Top dressing actinidia

The vine should be fertilized with minerals that will help strengthen the growth of the stems, help endure the winter and increase the yield. With the advent of spring, you need to make 35 grams of nitrogen and 20 grams of potassium-phosphorus top dressing per square meter of land.

The second time the flower will have to be fertilized during the formation of the ovaries. It should be applied at 20 grams of nitrogen and 10 potassium and phosphorus per square meter.

In the second half of September, the third fertilization is carried out. This time, 20 grams of potassium-phosphorus top dressing are applied per square meter. Plants should be well watered after fertilization.

pruning actinidia

So that the stems do not give extra branches, and those that are, grow more actively, they should be subjected to formative pruning. Note that only adult vines that have reached the age of 4 can be cut in this way.

The procedure should be performed throughout the summer, after which the stems are distributed along the support. Pinching the ends of the stems also has a good effect on the plant.

When the actinidias are eight years old, it is worth making a rejuvenating pruning for them - this means that only 40 cm of a stump will remain from the plant.

Do not prune in spring or early fall. This is fraught with the death of the plant due to the loss of juices.

After mid-September, halve the stems and cut off the branches. This is done for sanitary purposes. With too much crown, the plant does not tolerate winter well. With the achievement of 3-4 years of age, actinidia will begin to bear fruit.

actinidia preparing for winter

For the winter, young plants need to be removed from the supports and insulated with foliage. Prepare an impressive ball of insulation - about 20 cm. It is also advisable to add poison for mice under it. Old actinidia for the winter can not be covered.

Reproduction of actinidia

Propagating actinidia is easy. The main thing is to remember that vegetative methods transmit sexual characteristics hereditarily.

The seed method is bad because when using it, varietal characteristics are lost, and it is also impossible to determine the gender of the plant. But propagation by seeds has a plus: plants obtained in this way are much more hardy.

The fruits of actinidia obtained by the vegetative method appear in the third year, by seed - in the fifth or seventh.

Actinidia reproduction by layering

Reproduction of actinidia by arc layering is probably the easiest and most reliable way to get a new plant. When the spring movement of juices is over and young leaves appear, take a strong stem and attach it to the ground.

Next, sprinkle the shoot with soil, forming a mound above it, but make sure that the tip of the stem remains open. Next, try to water the layering and clear the area around it of weeds, and by autumn the young plant will be ready for transplanting.

Reproduction of actinidia cuttings

Cuttings are the fastest way to propagate actinidia. Perform the procedure at the beginning of summer, when the stems turn brown.

To propagate actinidia by cuttings, cut off a couple of young branches, no older than one year, before noon. Then they are divided into 10 cm parts so that each of them has 3 buds and 2 internodes. The bottom cut is made at an angle. They get rid of the lower foliage, and make the upper one half as long.

After that, the material is planted in a greenhouse in soil with low acidity (2 shares), mixed with humus (2 shares) and river sand (1 share), as well as complex mineral dressing without chlorine.

The cuttings are planted at an angle of 60°, keeping 6 cm between individuals and 10 between rows. After that, the material is watered, the soil is pressed a little and watered again, and then the seedlings are covered with double-folded gauze.

Until rooting is over, the cuttings will need to be watered up to five times a day, by spraying, you can do it simply through the shelter. After 15 days, the gauze is removed. For the winter, the material is insulated, and in the spring it can already be deposited on a new site.

Actinidia propagation by stems

Actinidia can also be propagated by lignified stems.

To do this, they need to be cut at the end of the autumn period, tied and kept vertically in the sand at a maximum temperature of 5 ° C.

The material is planted in a greenhouse and watered every couple of days. And then caring for seedlings is no different from such as for green cuttings.

Actinidia from seeds

To use seed propagation, you need to collect seeds from ripened fruits. They are put in gauze, kneaded and washed. After that, the seeds are selected and dried on paper in the shade.

In early December, the seeds are placed in water for 4 days, so that the liquid covers them only a couple of centimeters. The water needs to be replaced every day.

After that, the material is wrapped in a nylon fabric and stored in a container with wet sand at a temperature of 19°C. Every 7 days, the fabric must be taken out and ventilated for 5 minutes, after which the seeds are washed, wrapped again in fabric and placed in the sand. The most important thing is that the material is always wet.

In the middle of winter, a container with sand and seeds can be placed in a snowdrift. If the winter was not snowy, then the box is placed in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment. After 60 days, the seed container is placed in a room with a temperature around 11°C.

As before cooling, the seeds should be washed every 7 days, and if germination is detected, they are sown in the soil from river sand and soddy soil. Landing is carried out at 5 mm.

A container with planted plants is placed in partial shade, and it must also be constantly sprayed. With the appearance of three true leaves in plants, they dive into the greenhouse. The first flowering will not happen very soon, and, accordingly, you will not be able to determine the sex of the plant until then.

Diseases and pests

• Powdery mildew is removed with a weak solution of soda ash. The rest of the diseases mentioned are fought by trimming the infected parts, as well as prophylactic treatment with Bordeaux mixture after bud formation and another 15 days after the first time.

Among pests, leaf beetles that destroy buds most often stick to actinidia. There is also damage by bark beetles and lacewings.